Improved the double bowline. Added Yosemite tie off. 3 turns on 1 side, and standard 2 vertical lines inherent with a Yosemite tie off. I'm pretty impressed with it. Bowline and Yosemite I knew of. First I've heard of the double bowline. Thank you forr sharing. 😈😎😇
This video is seven years old but timely for me. The Yosemite bowline is just what I need for lines with a permanent loop, like a ridge line etc. I can whip the tail which will make a nicer finish.
Yosemite bowline was my preferred favorite tie-off for over ten years as a geotechnical rope access professional and I now like it for sailing too. It’s clean, secure and won’t vibrate loose over time like other bowlines. That said, it becomes if not dressed absolutely perfectly.
Add Yosemite fines to a sheet bend faster way to make a flemish (figure 8) bend and join two ropes for climbing. Good video, I love how bowlines can be so versatile.
Like that water bowline, especially the easy-tie method. The twin bowline bend, on the other hand, seems messy and pointless when you have the Carrick, or even the Zeppelin. Nice job! Happy New Year!
3:58 Hey thanks for that video. I do this knot "bowline in a bight" for climbing with a stopper knot. Is it safe enough? I never had problems with a loose knot, even after many falls. What do you think?
@@innerbarkoutdoors i know the figure 8, but this is hell to untie after many falls. That's why we love to use the bowline, but double. Which one you would recommend for "many falls"use?
Another way of explaining the water bowline - instead of making a loop in the first instance, make a clove-hitch. Then use the two loops of the clove hitch as your loop. That's essentially what you did in the video :P
If you make the 2 loops and put 1 behind the other, then the clove hitch is formed - he kept the 2 loops separate & that allows the finished knot to be dressed. Doing the clove hitch seems to lock the loops so you can't tighten to dress it properly.
Why would we use a twin bowline bend? A major use of a sheet bend is to bend lines of different thickness, but that wouldn't apply here. So what would be the reason for this knot?
It only leaves you with one loop, and without something ran through that loop the knot will fail since it's being pulled from both sides in this configuration, like an Alpine butterfly.
Double bowline, enlarge the loop on the standing end and feed the working end through so that it lays parallel to the standing end. This is more secure and esthetic than the Yosemite in my opinion. They look very similar but this one dresses better. Knot sure what its called. But its the most handsome variation in my opinion
Does anyone know the differences in breaking strengths between the different types of bowlines? Also, what if you tie a double or water bowline with a Yosemite finish...something like a "triple bowline"?
you would call that a double Bowline with a Yosemite Finish ;) triple bowline is when you tie a bowline WITH a bight (not ON the bight), making 3 loops (one being the working end, wich is a bight)
I am trying to find a good bend to join crabbing lines, and similarly I'm looking for a good end loop. Crab line is poly with a lead core, very stiff. I use bowlines, each with an overhand knot as a safety. Depending on current and tide, the pot can bounce around and the knots get jerked. So far they have never failed, though they require constant tightening. (Likewise, I make an end loop with a bowline and a safety overhand knot). I've looked at every knot book I own, and on line, and have yet to find anything better, because of the stiffness of the line. I've tried bowlines with a Yosemite finish, double bowlines, water bowlines, Ashley bend, sheet bend, double sheet bend, zeppelin and Carrick bends, water knots, and on and on. Ideally, the bend or knot won't jerk loose, and yet it will untie easily. For the harness at the pot itself I use a buntline hitch, but that line does not have a lead core. Any ideas for a bend that is tied in super stiff line and gets jerked? (At the risk of sounding snotty, if you are going to respond, please first try knots with very stiff line, or crab line if you have it.) Thanks in advance.
Have you tried a Janus Bowline? If the others were shaking loose, this might hold. It's a bit hard to suggest a bend without knowing how the others were inadequate. It's also hard to try stuff without knowing how stiff the rope is etc. Have you tried a Flemish Bend (Fig 8) or a Vice Versa? I reckon the Janus might work as the loop but for the bend, all I could do is keep throwing knots at you to see if you've tried them yet.
Part II: Oh, in my original post I said I tried a water bowline -- But apparently I didn't have a safety overhand knot on it. What a difference. Again, thanks Ian for guiding me back to that one. Evan
is there any quick release version of it ? What if I do a regular bowline with a bight through the final loop? I seems to be durable yet easily released.
You could do that. The knot turns into an overhand loop when you pull on the working end to release. It doesn't seem as strong as it LOOKs like it would roll and release under a big load
@@innerbarkoutdoors ok thank you.. what would be the best alternative to the bowline with similar strength but with a quick release tail ? My guess would be Kalmyk knot where you wrap the standing end twice around your left hand etc... There should be some more.
Great video. Came back to it after watching it a few years ago and learning to gain a much deeper understanding of knots in general, and some particular ones specifically. Bowline's are interesting. Some can roll over into a slip knot. If not pulled tight and dressed, first. I noticed this with the classic and the Yosemite... which seems to be a partially threaded figure eight as a main part of the knot. I've been spending a great deal of time tying and untying and examining the bowline knot. There's a way to tie it with the Marlin Spike Hitch; and this shows you its slip knot nature. If that loop doesn't get around the neck of the knot or if it somehow bumps over that neck; it rolls into a slip knot. That's a little scary to me. There's another knot called the Double Dragon; which doesn't roll. I know everyone swears by the bowline; but the fact that it CAN roll makes me think that it's not the best knot for climbing. When my life is on the line; I don't want ANY possibility of that happening.
strongest rope with best qualities for boat applications (especially on saltwater) is Amsteel-Blue. made of dyneema fibers. we use it for a ridiculous amount of different things (including hammock suspension!) successfully. good luck!
There's a faster way to do any of these, once you made your loop or loops, bend it back and pull a bit of line thru that loop, take the free end and put it thru that part and pull. Goes faster. Two of these you show I made up in my head, I see other people also thought of them
When tied properly, the Bowline on a Bite will not bind as much under heavy pressure and when wet and it should untie easier than a normal bowline in the same rope and under the same conditions. Although, I once had a truck pull my car out of a mud pit and the Bowline on a Bite that I tied was difficult to untie later. I needed 2 sets of pliers to get it untied. The bigger and less stretchy the rope, the easier the untying will be.
ANOTHER way to tie a bowline is making a bight with the end underneath, make a loop around the bight, and place the end of the loop through it. I find it faster, but the one hand technique is even faster.
Fantastic Video... But i request to tell me only 1 or 2 which are extremely strong and useful. So that i dont fill up my brain with so much varieties.. Please mention this for me
Start with the standard bowline. Next, bowline on a bight. After that, only use these other variations if you need the specific advantage mentioned in the video.
Good instructional video but i find the family of 8's more useful and easier. Personal preference i guess and what exactly are you calling the working end and the bitter end?
When working with a length of line, one end is often already attached. This is the "standing" end. The other end, which is free, is the "working end". You'd use a bowline on a bight when neither end is free -- when there's no working end. (That's what a bight is: a loop of line, with no working end in sight.) Bitter end is used in a different context (and I don't think it's used in the video.) It's the inboard end, and comes from the term "bitt".
In climbing applications it's better to tie a basic bowline and add a double-overhand safety knot. It's slower to tie than a water bowline or double bowline, and uses more rope, but is more secure.
Super important to pull the working end of the rope right first when doing Yosemite finish. Pulling working end tight first can be bad as it pulls the knot apart.
if you tie a yosemite finish on a bowline, do it the right way around or you gonna have a bad time. there´s multiple reported accidents over the last 5-10 years over here in europe and the mountaineering associations (ÖAV, DAV and CAI) strongly recommend to tie a backup-knot above the knot instead of a finishing-knot. so if you are unsure which way the correct yosemite comes around - just DON´T do it.
Correct! But you have to say also, this video shows the right way of a bowline with Yosemite finish. 😉👍 If you are struggling with this knot, please use the double eight in a bite for climbing. Easier to tie and control before climbing.
Great vid! I'm not shure about the twin bowline bend though - doesn't that just add another knot which weakens the rope? Even though the bowline configuration is quite strong it seems like the sheet bend does kind of the same thing with less room for failure. Thank you for sharing :)
Interesting fact: if you look at the finished sheet bend knot, and compare it to a regular bowline, you'll notice that they are actually the same knot.
i get that - my point was that it seems that it would only increase the risk of one of them failing.if the risk of one failing is X (like a single sheet bend) it might be 2X for basically two sheet bends although on second thought i guess each of them only takes half the load..
It's not the 2 knots that are the issue I don't think. It's more that any Bowline is about 40% efficient, meaning it should fail at about 40% breaking strain of the rope. This would happen with just one knot. With 2 knots, it's just a lottery will it be this one or that one (either way it will happen at the same force).
@@ibjacked I read in a knot book that it is the same exact knot but from tying both a lot & comparing them I would say very similar but not identical. The sheet band is tied with the working end going around both legs of the bight but tying a bowline bend you only go around one rope as there was never a bight formed.
Dan from Dogwood Custom Knives had this kevlar rope for his hammock, and boy was that stuff slippery. I don't know how he didn't end up on the jungle floor in the morning!
Too many knots ! too confusing and actually burdensome. What we (I) need is one good loop knot that is strong, will not come undone accidentally, and be easy to untie in all environments including water after heavy loads, . I'm guessing here from what I have seen.... How about the Water Bowline with the Yosemite finish ? All I need is one best knot. STOP confusing me. If you or any other expert can suggest one best know please do so. Also please place emphasis on being able to untie as I am tired of good ropes with knots in them that I cannot untie as I sometimes put thousands of pounds on them and they squeeze up real tight..
Scott: I'm no "expert". But, I used to work with large ropes daily pulling extremely heavy conveyor belts into conveyors with fork lifts, pickup trucks and cranes. The good old regular bowline knot never EVER failed me. I had sections of the rope break at times, but never a failure of the knot. No matter how hard I would pull with a crane the bowline was easy to untie when the pressure was let off the rope. Even when the load was too great for the rope and it would break, the knot was still easily untied. I would use a simple "Larks Head" knot to attach the other end of the rope to the crane hook block or truck hitch, but a bowline would work just as well. (and was more secure than the larks head). If you need the bowline to be a little more secure when slack, simply tie a stopper knot to the running end around the loop. (The rabbit that ran around the tree and went back down the hole) Just run that rabbit one turn around the loop and tuck it back onto its self. Done. The bowline is one of the most useful of all knots. These fancy variants really are intended for specific applications like climbing and rescue. For the industrial uses's that we are talking about the regular bowline will get the job done safely enough. Worked great for me for many many years.
This is the most informative format of video In my option for the greater audience. And thats what I'm going for, trying to teach the biggest audience standard more useful versions of knots. Plenty of other creators that do it differently if this is not your cup of tea tho man, no hurt feelings.
@@innerbarkoutdoors there’s no slow mo button it’s rewind but constructive criticism on a video is well needed for future videos . Especially no time limit on RUclips . Thanks for the response
First of all, do not do the "twist your hand to start the bowline" until you are *really practiced* at the basic bowline. And if you make videos about knots, get out of the way so people can see the line, please. That hand-twist just blocks the first step!
"this next variation is extremely important ... so if you have a long line, or long rope, and you need to tie a bowline, and you don't want it to be at either end because it's too long, you can do it in a bite" WTF does that mean? lol! ... that makes no sense whatsoever ... and it's apparently "extremely important"! C'MON MAN! lol!
Imagine you have a 100 foot rope. but you only need a bowline 5 feet away from the anchor, you can tie the bowline in a bight 5 feet away instead of 100 feet away at the end.
Another "tip" for any bowline is to make the loop around the standing end the other way around, so the loose end is outside the loop, it helps if you have to further use the moving end of the bowline, for perhaps a second one and the knot is flatter under load. The bowline in the german navy is taught with the loose end on the outside of the loop, although I think there aren't any colossal differences between either method. It also helps with opening the bowline if the line gets soaked and expands, because the loose end can't get stuck inside the loop, preventing you from breaking it open.
Yep! All good. If you leave the loose end on the outside of the loop, it is called a "left handed bowline" or a "cowboy bowline." It has the same characteristics as a regular bowline but is considered slightly less secure because the loose end is more likely to rub and catch on obstacles which could help undo the knot.
In my Marlinspike class I teach the traditional bowline but also teach that the cowboy bowline is a perfectly good knot; it may be marginally weaker. However if you need a fixed-sized loop NOW, you should not be retying a cowboy bowline to make it a standard one.
Raven Coldheart What's in a name? Bowline with loose ends inside ánd outside exist already in ancient times. Cowboys didn't even exist those days. Most countrys in Europe except GReat Brittain used the loose end outside as the standard.
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Narrator's voice is studio quality; stellar.
Thanks, Mate! My handheld recorder in a walk-in closet does a good job at isolating my voice.
3:52 bowline in a bite. Fascinating. Love it and the video .
*thumbs up*
Very clear, visible and precise presentations. Well done.
Thank you very much!
@@innerbarkoutdoorsmy pleasure!
Improved the double bowline.
Added Yosemite tie off.
3 turns on 1 side, and standard 2 vertical lines inherent with a Yosemite tie off.
I'm pretty impressed with it.
Bowline and Yosemite I knew of.
First I've heard of the double bowline.
Thank you forr sharing.
😈😎😇
Glad you had a takeaway with the video 🤘
This video is seven years old but timely for me. The Yosemite bowline is just what I need for lines with a permanent loop, like a ridge line etc. I can whip the tail which will make a nicer finish.
Yosemite bowline was my preferred favorite tie-off for over ten years as a geotechnical rope access professional and I now like it for sailing too. It’s clean, secure and won’t vibrate loose over time like other bowlines. That said, it becomes if not dressed absolutely perfectly.
Dangerous ^
Add Yosemite fines to a sheet bend faster way to make a flemish (figure 8) bend and join two ropes for climbing. Good video, I love how bowlines can be so versatile.
*thumbs up*
Really great video. It looks like a clove hitch as the "hole" in the water bowline - it really locks down tight.
Glad you liked it!
Like that water bowline, especially the easy-tie method. The twin bowline bend, on the other hand, seems messy and pointless when you have the Carrick, or even the Zeppelin. Nice job! Happy New Year!
*thumbs up*
GOT IT TOOK LONGER THAN I THOUGHT IT SHOULD!
3:58 Hey thanks for that video. I do this knot "bowline in a bight" for climbing with a stopper knot. Is it safe enough? I never had problems with a loose knot, even after many falls. What do you think?
Glad you liked the video paul. Most ppl the climbing world use the figure 8 follow thru.
@@innerbarkoutdoors i know the figure 8, but this is hell to untie after many falls. That's why we love to use the bowline, but double. Which one you would recommend for "many falls"use?
@@paulschweissbrenner watch this.. ruclips.net/video/QAr-uHd8h8o/видео.html
Another way of explaining the water bowline - instead of making a loop in the first instance, make a clove-hitch. Then use the two loops of the clove hitch as your loop. That's essentially what you did in the video :P
If you make the 2 loops and put 1 behind the other, then the clove hitch is formed - he kept the 2 loops separate & that allows the finished knot to be dressed. Doing the clove hitch seems to lock the loops so you can't tighten to dress it properly.
*thumbs up*
Excellent presentation, with correct pronunciation [bowlynn]
:)
Why would we use a twin bowline bend? A major use of a sheet bend is to bend lines of different thickness, but that wouldn't apply here. So what would be the reason for this knot?
It works well with larger than average diameter ropes.
All Excellent....3:53 Bowline in a bight Useful..............................Many thanks.
Thanks Brian!
That was cool. I especially liked the bight.
*thumbs up*
Yosemite bowline for climbing: Always wise to have extra tail and finish it with a barrel not around the rope.
what issue is created if u try to complete this at 4:30 with the regular bowline method going back down the hole?
It only leaves you with one loop, and without something ran through that loop the knot will fail since it's being pulled from both sides in this configuration, like an Alpine butterfly.
*thumbs up*
Excellent!
Many thanks!
Double bowline, enlarge the loop on the standing end and feed the working end through so that it lays parallel to the standing end. This is more secure and esthetic than the Yosemite in my opinion. They look very similar but this one dresses better. Knot sure what its called. But its the most handsome variation in my opinion
Quick, neat and to the point. Nice!
*thumbs up*
Does anyone know the differences in breaking strengths between the different types of bowlines? Also, what if you tie a double or water bowline with a Yosemite finish...something like a "triple bowline"?
you would call that a double Bowline with a Yosemite Finish ;) triple bowline is when you tie a bowline WITH a bight (not ON the bight), making 3 loops (one being the working end, wich is a bight)
*thumbs up*
Just discovered, great vids well thought out. How did you cut your thumb? Teachable moment?
Can’t remember. Glad you are enjoying the channel tho!
Great video.
*thumbs up*
I am trying to find a good bend to join crabbing lines, and similarly I'm looking for a good end loop. Crab line is poly with a lead core, very stiff. I use bowlines, each with an overhand knot as a safety. Depending on current and tide, the pot can bounce around and the knots get jerked. So far they have never failed, though they require constant tightening. (Likewise, I make an end loop with a bowline and a safety overhand knot). I've looked at every knot book I own, and on line, and have yet to find anything better, because of the stiffness of the line. I've tried bowlines with a Yosemite finish, double bowlines, water bowlines, Ashley bend, sheet bend, double sheet bend, zeppelin and Carrick bends, water knots, and on and on. Ideally, the bend or knot won't jerk loose, and yet it will untie easily. For the harness at the pot itself I use a buntline hitch, but that line does not have a lead core. Any ideas for a bend that is tied in super stiff line and gets jerked? (At the risk of sounding snotty, if you are going to respond, please first try knots with very stiff line, or crab line if you have it.) Thanks in advance.
Have you tried a Janus Bowline? If the others were shaking loose, this might hold. It's a bit hard to suggest a bend without knowing how the others were inadequate. It's also hard to try stuff without knowing how stiff the rope is etc. Have you tried a Flemish Bend (Fig 8) or a Vice Versa? I reckon the Janus might work as the loop but for the bend, all I could do is keep throwing knots at you to see if you've tried them yet.
Part II:
Oh, in my original post I said I tried a water bowline -- But apparently I didn't have a safety overhand knot on it. What a difference. Again, thanks Ian for guiding me back to that one. Evan
Better late than never, but thanks ian hehe Glad you go it evan :)
is there any quick release version of it ? What if I do a regular bowline with a bight through the final loop? I seems to be durable yet easily released.
You could do that. The knot turns into an overhand loop when you pull on the working end to release. It doesn't seem as strong as it LOOKs like it would roll and release under a big load
@@innerbarkoutdoors ok thank you.. what would be the best alternative to the bowline with similar strength but with a quick release tail ? My guess would be Kalmyk knot where you wrap the standing end twice around your left hand etc... There should be some more.
Nice video. Great knowledge
Glad you liked it!
Excellent video!
Thanks Steven
Awesome video series thanks for posting
*thumbs up*
why water if roundturn looks cleaner and lays better?
THANKS AGAIN SIR. STAY STRONG AND GODSPEED,!
Thank you sir!
Outstanding video! Thanks for sharing your knot skills with us. ATB - Dee
*thumbs up*
If I understood correctly...the water bowline is a bowline with a clove hitch instead of a simple overhand loop at the beginning
Correct
*thumbs up*
Great video. Came back to it after watching it a few years ago and learning to gain a much deeper understanding of knots in general, and some particular ones specifically.
Bowline's are interesting. Some can roll over into a slip knot. If not pulled tight and dressed, first. I noticed this with the classic and the Yosemite... which seems to be a partially threaded figure eight as a main part of the knot.
I've been spending a great deal of time tying and untying and examining the bowline knot. There's a way to tie it with the Marlin Spike Hitch; and this shows you its slip knot nature. If that loop doesn't get around the neck of the knot or if it somehow bumps over that neck; it rolls into a slip knot.
That's a little scary to me. There's another knot called the Double Dragon; which doesn't roll. I know everyone swears by the bowline; but the fact that it CAN roll makes me think that it's not the best knot for climbing. When my life is on the line; I don't want ANY possibility of that happening.
Thanks David for the comment. I appreciate your thoughts and commentary
Excellent. Thanks for sharing. Take care
Take care out there
What sort of rope is it? I'm looking for a stronger one.
Thanks
strongest rope with best qualities for boat applications (especially on saltwater) is Amsteel-Blue. made of dyneema fibers. we use it for a ridiculous amount of different things (including hammock suspension!) successfully. good luck!
This is rock climbing rope from REI a long time ago.
Very clear and great instructions thanks
*thumbs up*
Like the Bowline? Give the Angler knot a good look.. stronger guts, equal tension on both sides of the loop, and can be made as a one-pull untie.
Will do, Dash
Super!!!!! Molto molto ben fatto!!
*thumbs up* Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this!
Thanks for watching :)
Many Thanks!!!
You're welcome!
Funny thing is that I invented the Round Turn Bowline last week, just to figure out it already existed.
There's a faster way to do any of these, once you made your loop or loops, bend it back and pull a bit of line thru that loop, take the free end and put it thru that part and pull. Goes faster. Two of these you show I made up in my head, I see other people also thought of them
I was practicing the bowline on a bite and noticed it cinches under load. Am I doing something wrong?
Any bowline, under load, is going to be locked. You are not going to be able to untie it when it is under load.
When tied properly, the Bowline on a Bite will not bind as much under heavy pressure and when wet and it should untie easier than a normal bowline in the same rope and under the same conditions.
Although, I once had a truck pull my car out of a mud pit and the Bowline on a Bite that I tied was difficult to untie later. I needed 2 sets of pliers to get it untied. The bigger and less stretchy the rope, the easier the untying will be.
Just make sure you are properly doing it - can be easily misdone.
You could do a tutorial on how to do a tutorial. Well done and thank you.
*thumbs up*
Very good
Thanks! Got more coming, stay tuned/subscribe
ANOTHER way to tie a bowline is making a bight with the end underneath, make a loop around the bight, and place the end of the loop through it. I find it faster, but the one hand technique is even faster.
*thumbs up*
Fantastic Video...
But i request to tell me only 1 or 2 which are extremely strong and useful. So that i dont fill up my brain with so much varieties.. Please mention this for me
Start with the standard bowline. Next, bowline on a bight. After that, only use these other variations if you need the specific advantage mentioned in the video.
@@JeffLearman Thank you brother
*thumbs up* Glad you enjoyed the video - also thanks Jeff for helping out :)
Nice video thanks for sharing the bowline knots atb John
Thanks John - hope your still rocking with us, we got a new knot video out!
I love this.than for the sharing..
Thank you Matthew
Good instructional video but i find the family of 8's more useful and easier. Personal preference i guess and what exactly are you calling the working end and the bitter end?
When working with a length of line, one end is often already attached. This is the "standing" end. The other end, which is free, is the "working end". You'd use a bowline on a bight when neither end is free -- when there's no working end. (That's what a bight is: a loop of line, with no working end in sight.) Bitter end is used in a different context (and I don't think it's used in the video.) It's the inboard end, and comes from the term "bitt".
*thumbs up*
10* Always good to know. Should be the first scouts and bushie/preppie training course materials ....
*thumbs up*
Can you do the double bowline and then the Yosemite finish? Overkill?
I don't think you can overkill knots!
So true...so true😂
Cheers Mate!
back at you
In climbing applications it's better to tie a basic bowline and add a double-overhand safety knot. It's slower to tie than a water bowline or double bowline, and uses more rope, but is more secure.
I like to use a bowline with a Yosemite finish, and then tie that off with a double overhand.
But I’m paranoid...lol
That too is a good option.
Super important to pull the working end of the rope right first when doing Yosemite finish. Pulling working end tight first can be bad as it pulls the knot apart.
*thumbs up*
i have used this for years to tie lureson directly. i pass the loop over the entire lure and tighten. mind those trebble hooks...
*thumbs up*
_ dave 6
The Yosemite needs correcting. It should come out on the left of the standing end. Then it’ll seat properly at the back.
But doesn't be enough and easier to just add a half hitch in the end of usual bowline?
To secure the knot.
*thumbs up*
*thumbs up*
if you tie a yosemite finish on a bowline, do it the right way around or you gonna have a bad time. there´s multiple reported accidents over the last 5-10 years over here in europe and the mountaineering associations (ÖAV, DAV and CAI) strongly recommend to tie a backup-knot above the knot instead of a finishing-knot. so if you are unsure which way the correct yosemite comes around - just DON´T do it.
Correct! But you have to say also, this video shows the right way of a bowline with Yosemite finish. 😉👍
If you are struggling with this knot, please use the double eight in a bite for climbing. Easier to tie and control before climbing.
Great vid!
I'm not shure about the twin bowline bend though - doesn't that just add another knot which weakens the rope? Even though the bowline configuration is quite strong it seems like the sheet bend does kind of the same thing with less room for failure.
Thank you for sharing :)
Interesting fact: if you look at the finished sheet bend knot, and compare it to a regular bowline, you'll notice that they are actually the same knot.
i get that - my point was that it seems that it would only increase the risk of one of them failing.if the risk of one failing is X (like a single sheet bend) it might be 2X for basically two sheet bends
although on second thought i guess each of them only takes half the load..
It's not the 2 knots that are the issue I don't think. It's more that any Bowline is about 40% efficient, meaning it should fail at about 40% breaking strain of the rope. This would happen with just one knot. With 2 knots, it's just a lottery will it be this one or that one (either way it will happen at the same force).
@@ibjacked I read in a knot book that it is the same exact knot but from tying both a lot & comparing them I would say very similar but not identical. The sheet band is tied with the working end going around both legs of the bight but tying a bowline bend you only go around one rope as there was never a bight formed.
*thumbs up* Thanks or your comment. Hope your still here with the channel - got a new knot video out!
LOL! NEEDS A SLOW MO BUTTON IM A LEFTY!
No EBSB? That one is inherently secure for climbing and has 3 rope diameters in the nipping loop so should be stronger
I haven't ever heard of a properly tided bowline slipping
The bowline was created when fiber ropes were the only way to go. With slicker nylon and synthetic lines, they can slip.
Yep! with the new type ropes I can see where it would be a problem, some of them are slippery.
Dan from Dogwood Custom Knives had this kevlar rope for his hammock, and boy was that stuff slippery. I don't know how he didn't end up on the jungle floor in the morning!
Properly *tied* bowline
Too many knots to remember!!!
Just the right amount
the BoLINN m8
*thumbs up*
Please slow down with the movements.
You can watch the video as many times as you'd like until you get it.
Or
You can slow the video down yourself to a more suitable speed.
Can't go too slow, it would be too long of a video - there is a slow down option in the settings
And the Yosemite finish looks like a bowline on an S bend.
*thumbs up*
cool...
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👍👍
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💯👍
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I'd like to see the French Bowline...
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Too many knots ! too confusing and actually burdensome. What we (I) need is one
good loop knot that is strong, will not come undone accidentally, and be easy to untie
in all environments including water after heavy loads, . I'm guessing here from what
I have seen.... How about the Water Bowline with the Yosemite finish ? All I need is one
best knot. STOP confusing me. If you or any other expert can suggest one best know please do so.
Also please place emphasis on being able to untie as I am tired of good ropes with knots
in them that I cannot untie as I sometimes put thousands of pounds on them and they
squeeze up real tight..
Scott: I'm no "expert". But, I used to work with large ropes daily pulling extremely heavy conveyor belts into conveyors with fork lifts, pickup trucks and cranes. The good old regular bowline knot never EVER failed me. I had sections of the rope break at times, but never a failure of the knot. No matter how hard I would pull with a crane the bowline was easy to untie when the pressure was let off the rope. Even when the load was too great for the rope and it would break, the knot was still easily untied. I would use a simple "Larks Head" knot to attach the other end of the rope to the crane hook block or truck hitch, but a bowline would work just as well. (and was more secure than the larks head). If you need the bowline to be a little more secure when slack, simply tie a stopper knot to the running end around the loop. (The rabbit that ran around the tree and went back down the hole) Just run that rabbit one turn around the loop and tuck it back onto its self. Done. The bowline is one of the most useful of all knots. These fancy variants really are intended for specific applications like climbing and rescue. For the industrial uses's that we are talking about the regular bowline will get the job done safely enough. Worked great for me for many many years.
This is the most informative format of video In my option for the greater audience. And thats what I'm going for, trying to teach the biggest audience standard more useful versions of knots. Plenty of other creators that do it differently if this is not your cup of tea tho man, no hurt feelings.
You need to slow down when showing the knots would be more helpful.
Can’t be too much slower or the video is too long, you can manually slow down the video
@@innerbarkoutdoors there’s no slow mo button it’s rewind but constructive criticism on a video is well needed for future videos . Especially no time limit on RUclips . Thanks for the response
Nice video but TBH - showing all those variations without giving more details on which to use when is a bit pointless.
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Ur fast to understand..
There is a "slow down" thing in settings so you can slow the video to better understand :)
We could have done without the crappy looney tunes music noise in the background.
Oh well.
First of all, do not do the "twist your hand to start the bowline" until you are *really practiced* at the basic bowline. And if you make videos about knots, get out of the way so people can see the line, please. That hand-twist just blocks the first step!
But did you die?
slow down!
You can manually slow the video down. Can't make it much longer or it will be too slow
"this next variation is extremely important ... so if you have a long line, or long rope, and you need to tie a bowline, and you don't want it to be at either end because it's too long, you can do it in a bite"
WTF does that mean? lol! ... that makes no sense whatsoever ... and it's apparently "extremely important"!
C'MON MAN! lol!
Imagine you have a 100 foot rope. but you only need a bowline 5 feet away from the anchor, you can tie the bowline in a bight 5 feet away instead of 100 feet away at the end.
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Next time I'll go into more depth!
Another "tip" for any bowline is to make the loop around the standing end the other way around, so the loose end is outside the loop, it helps if you have to further use the moving end of the bowline, for perhaps a second one and the knot is flatter under load. The bowline in the german navy is taught with the loose end on the outside of the loop, although I think there aren't any colossal differences between either method. It also helps with opening the bowline if the line gets soaked and expands, because the loose end can't get stuck inside the loop, preventing you from breaking it open.
+Jain Zar Hopefully my comment is understandable, english isn't my first language and I had a little bit of trouble translating the technical terms.
Yep! All good.
If you leave the loose end on the outside of the loop, it is called a "left handed bowline" or a "cowboy bowline." It has the same characteristics as a regular bowline but is considered slightly less secure because the loose end is more likely to rub and catch on obstacles which could help undo the knot.
In my Marlinspike class I teach the traditional bowline but also teach that the cowboy bowline is a perfectly good knot; it may be marginally weaker. However if you need a fixed-sized loop NOW, you should not be retying a cowboy bowline to make it a standard one.
Raven Coldheart What's in a name? Bowline with loose ends inside ánd outside exist already in ancient times. Cowboys didn't even exist those days. Most countrys in Europe except GReat Brittain used the loose end outside as the standard.
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Cheers Mate!
Back at you!