Thanks for this video. I watched it months ago, eventually tried a pen... eventually got back to it... and eventually got around to getting a soldering iron. Here I am, months later, and I needed a video on how to use it. This was STILL the best explanation. Kudos!
you might try a heat gun after the sanding. I have never worked with pen prints but have had good success with my 3d printer prints. If you do it just enough, it will bring bring back the original glossy sheen. I think this works by relieving stresses created by sanding and melts the tiny hairs of plastic that remain from sanding, surface tension pulls on that tiny amount of plastic thus smoothing and restoring the "just melted" glaze (because it was just melted). That's my working theory anyways. For the scale you work on, something like a reflow soldering setup would be ideally suited. If you are not familiar, they are tiny, focused guns with very precise control over temperature. It could also be described as a hot air jet, that is to say there is some pressure to act upon the print in the exact spot you are heating to move material around. think of it like a hot "air brush". The best part is, its effectively non contact.
Hi, thanks for the ideas and feedback! I have tried using my handheld torch, but with that it is very hard to control the application of heat, so you usually end up melting and making the surface look much worse. I like the idea of trying a heat gun (which I have) and especially the reflow setup (if I can get ahold of one)- I'll have to give those a try. Thanks again for the ideas!
I've had a chance to try using a heat gun, it works great! I found the best combination seems to be a woodburning iron--->sanding--->heat gun process. The biggest downfall is that the heat gun can expose hidden pits under the surface texture. But the holes are usually tiny pinholes, that are easy to to fix up later
Can confirm. A heat gun will bring back the glossy sheen after sanding. However unfortunately it does next to nothing to help with smoothing the surface itself. Instead of melting layer lines together the PLA mass will just absorb all of the heat and become malleable. Great for bending 3d prints into particular shapes though!
im almost giving up on smothing this. I thought the problem was abs and i started to use pla. Nothing. Paper filer doesnt seems to do ANYTHING to the piece. Using a drill still doesnt give a straight surface. I saw you saying that you do many rounds of smothing and sanding. Thats the only thing i didnt try yet. I had no idea about this, No one says that! lol Lets try once again. *prays* lol btw, your channel is amazing! I hope i get there soon
hm, an issue i find is that the surface has warped over time from the heat and layers of plastic, another one is that the surface is shiny and "smooth" but not geometrically smooth, like the spheres in the video are a lot smoother by the end of the various processes, but geometrically they are still very wobbly. my best tactic is to have some mechanical way of sanding the surface, for a flat surface i have the sand stapled to a plank, and the plastic piece is pressed and rubbed in one direction, back and forth, you get a very clean surface, because the mechanics remove my nerves and shaky hands from the process almost completely.
I just got a 3d pen today and have no idea how to use it so I just searched it on yt and I watched a video of urs before this one about things that 3d pen users do wrong and ur channel really helped me! Thx👍👍
What about an electric filer? The type you would see in a nail salon. I was gifted a 3D pen this Christmas so I'm pretty new at this craft. This is the first video I've come across that explains techniques in a way that actually keeps my attention. Lol. I will definitely be checking out more of your content. I love to sculpt but so far, this is quite different from sculpting. Lol.
In a few Days, I'll have to Do an oral presentation about 3D pencils and let me Tell you that it's one of these moments where you're like "THANK GOD THIS VIDEO EXISTS"
amazing video! I don't 3d pen personally, but after watching this video, I might try it. Keep up the amazing work and you will get to 10K subs in no time!
Hi Mr.Potent, very nice tutorial thank you for that, also I want to give you a tip for a great finish, after using the wood burner method you can add this one which is heating it with a heat gun, it takes practice but I am sure that you can make it possible 😀
I had a feeling that 3d gloop might did the work like vapor smoothing on abs plastics. Another way that I personally use after sanding is varnish (with brush), in case you don't wanna use lighter and risk to get burning marks.
For sanding, why not use a sanding tool like a sanding tip on a dremel or one of those disc sanders? For the latter, you have ready access to different grits as well, although you'd need hearing as well eye protective equipment (safety first). Edit: dremel doesn't work well apparently, but what about a disc sander?
Its better to have a controllable soldering iron. You can set the temp to what u want. Take care to not keept it too high if you are a beginner. For newbies: keep the temp low and be steady n slow with your hands. High temp can smolder the plastic. You may also want to try a hot air soldering iron. They blow out hot air. Or you can also use an old cloth iron for larger parts u may need to modify it to make it workable for ur requirements
the hakko t18 c3 is pretty amazing if you came into this already with a soldering iron. You have to be patient given it has less surface area but really effective. also just a heads up, the kit you link to does not include the smoother you are using.
I have the same wood burning kit. Id like to see what heat setting you’re using and about the stainless tips you were using. I was having trouble smoothing with the brass tips
For PLA I set it just into the orange section of the dial. The stainless steel tips I made myself from 8-32 threaded stainless screws, with a grinding wheel.
After Sanding so it's a smooth surface then take a quick torch on it. Brings out that shine. There is also painting it with 3d Printing Resin and then curing it might work.
Someone else asked this question on a different video and I gave a bunch of details there: ruclips.net/video/K2goTOoU5J8/видео.html For cleaning it I just use a paper towel.
Yo dremel is not worth the effort and the dirt. Its nicest using the heated metal method, u get best results and it makes no dirt. U can see a bigger difference when using transparent pla and use a dremel the pla gets white and looses the transparency. This does not happen when only using heat.
For the wood burning tips you made, it looks like they’re carriage bolts you’ve modified? What are the sizes for the thread and thickness? How’d you get the bolt head flat, grinder & sanding?
Your video's are ❤️ tomorrow I Wil work for the first time with a 3d pen and I was looking for what information and your channel came up! Thank you so much for your content Sir ⭐
New guy here. Nice work and I think the sanding then heat to bring back the color worked best. I'll have to buy a pen and give it a go. Just when I think I've done all the art I can do, I find video's like these lol.
Can you make a dedicated video on how to make those stainless steel tips for wood burning too? I tried an old soldering iron and it smudged black spots on an orange colored project I'm working on. Then I planned to buy wood burning tool and searched online but none has those flat tops you're using. Please make a tutorial for those tips.
I haven't tested this out yet with PLA yet but with other thermal plastics. After you are done getting the final smooth shape you want, you can hit other thermal plastics with a heat gun lightly to reactivate the surface so that it returns to the glossy plastic look if it was able to be glossy originally (Worbla Crystal Art is one such plastic). I suspect it needs practice and I would use a mini heat shrink gun instead of a large heat gun for control (I have both guns for this reason).
Hello! Can you help me find the best temperature to melt the plastic? What I use a soldering iron is unfortunately a bit burns the plastic and leaves a brown mark.
please tell me more about the stainless steel tips, thank you I found this video very helpful, liked and subscribed. I have ordered the same iron, it seems like the best one I have seen for the smoothing task.
Glad the video was helpful and thanks for subscribing! The stainless steel tips I made myself from 8-32 threaded stainless screws, with a grinding wheel.
For the tip on thr wood burner what did you use? I have tried this technique but I cant seem to find the right size sheet metal screw. It looks like you use a stainless steel screw but I've had a hard time finding the right one and when I did it seemed that you have yours bent to a slight angle which I have tried but failed to get a consisten result. When I followed this it seemd I was stripping the threads and not getting a good result. After watching your grind video do you think you could have done your oven smoothing technique on that project or is it too delicate and ornate of a shape? You're the reason I got into 3D pens and will be diving back into it seeing as hie I have rolls and rolls of filament but lost some mojo after trying some projects that just seemed to be more deflating. You are inspiring me again though and love your videos 👏👏👍👍
Super glad to hear you’re getting back into it! Glad my videos helped :) The stainless steel tips I made myself from 8-32 threaded stainless screws, with a grinding wheel. Note I can only say this size works for the wood burning tool linked in the description. After grinding the head down to the shape I wanted, I made the angled bend. I put a bunch of 8-32 nuts on the screw, stopping at where I wanted to make the angled bend. Then I clamped all the nuts in a vice and bent the screw. Once the bend was made, I was able to remove the nuts from the straight section with the threads intact.
Interesting video I enjoyed it I like all the different methods, i have never tried the gloop and probably now never will, as you have proved light file and sand then soldering iron wood burner best way. Have you tried a heat gun that works or same principal small blow torch but move fast to prevent burning ?
Do you have or would you make a tutorial on how to make the stainless steal tips? I would love to know how since all I can find are copper tips. Amazing video and much love from Canada 🥰
Thanks and hope everything in Canada is well! I probably won't make a video about it, but I used stainless steel screws and a grinding wheel to make the tips I have.
Potent Printables Great video, love all your videos. Thanks for all the help!! Ive also tried to make them from stainless steel screws, bolts and not having great success. They are not heating up to same level as the rest of the tool,.When I grinned down the screws they still got the Philips head + showing .... The bolts are easier and I’ve even die’d them so they screw right on the wood burning tool,. But still i get the same problem. Could you explain a little more in detail how you got yours to work?
@Potent Printables Actually never mind. I figured it out.. And ill upload a video shortly on how to do it so no one else has to go through the same nonsense I did with screws, bolts, etc lol...
Please make a tutorial on how to make those stainless steel wood burning tool tips! Or link to where they can be ordered, I'm very interested in adding that to my 3D pen kit
This is so good. I've come to a similar solution for my 3d prints. I didn't want to paint them but almost majority do this. I feel like what's the point of filaments if this is the case. Anyhow, I've ordered a sanding hand tool (small and compact) and I think I'm going to order the wood burner too.
I use Duramic PLA, It gets gummy in acetone but it wont smooth in a vapor bath. I have found that an acetone soaked rag can be used to buff the print lines out. You may want either a a pair of Butyl rubber glove(think heavy duty rubber gloves) or lotion because it can potentially chap your hands.
Love the vid man, wanted to check what can help smoth these and just Watched a vid from uncle jessy and he tries some stuff to smoth 3D prints maybe might work to 3D pen protects . He tryes resin in liquid form and sands it. He also talks about wood filler so not sure if you wanna try that , also XTC 3D, and finally talks about automotive filler/primer so if you try these and work might be cool to see a vid about it . Don't have the the hability to try all these myself .
I've found using a wood burner even with stainless steel tips gets some of the PLA stuck to the pen which then "cooks" and releases smoke. :x Any idea how to avoid this?
I always have a paper towel handy and I immediately wipe off the tip if this happens. I also periodically wipe the tip just to keep it clean. Avoiding it totally is tough- keeping the tip moving as you smooth and not dwelling too long on one area helps a lot.
@@PotentPrintables Thanks for the advice! I am also going to return the one I bought and get a Walnut Creek woodburner since they seem to have a better variable temperature, hopefully that helps.
I use a paper towel, folded over twice into a small square. I wipe the tip frequently because I am paranoid about ruining the model I am working on. If you are getting little burnt pieces coming off your model it might mean that you have the temperature too high on your smoothing tool.
hello with the soldering iron it looks better but after the soldering iron and a coat of paint is it enough to even out a 3d rendering of a 3d print? because I would like to achieve a better result like 3D printing and I ordered a 3D pen I am afraid of not being able to obtain a clear result
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
i dont even own a 3d pen why am i watching this lol
My hypnotic voice...
@@PotentPrintables lol
Same
@@PotentPrintables lol that's hilarious but ya gotta admit.... It is
Same but I want one. THAT STIMULUS CHECK.
Thanks for this video. I watched it months ago, eventually tried a pen... eventually got back to it... and eventually got around to getting a soldering iron. Here I am, months later, and I needed a video on how to use it. This was STILL the best explanation. Kudos!
Great to hear!
you might try a heat gun after the sanding. I have never worked with pen prints but have had good success with my 3d printer prints. If you do it just enough, it will bring bring back the original glossy sheen. I think this works by relieving stresses created by sanding and melts the tiny hairs of plastic that remain from sanding, surface tension pulls on that tiny amount of plastic thus smoothing and restoring the "just melted" glaze (because it was just melted). That's my working theory anyways.
For the scale you work on, something like a reflow soldering setup would be ideally suited. If you are not familiar, they are tiny, focused guns with very precise control over temperature. It could also be described as a hot air jet, that is to say there is some pressure to act upon the print in the exact spot you are heating to move material around. think of it like a hot "air brush". The best part is, its effectively non contact.
Hi, thanks for the ideas and feedback! I have tried using my handheld torch, but with that it is very hard to control the application of heat, so you usually end up melting and making the surface look much worse.
I like the idea of trying a heat gun (which I have) and especially the reflow setup (if I can get ahold of one)- I'll have to give those a try. Thanks again for the ideas!
I've had a chance to try using a heat gun, it works great! I found the best combination seems to be a woodburning iron--->sanding--->heat gun process.
The biggest downfall is that the heat gun can expose hidden pits under the surface texture. But the holes are usually tiny pinholes, that are easy to to fix up later
A regular cloth buffing wheel with a white polishing rouge will make your wood burner smoothed object really pop. And it’s very quick!
Can confirm. A heat gun will bring back the glossy sheen after sanding. However unfortunately it does next to nothing to help with smoothing the surface itself. Instead of melting layer lines together the PLA mass will just absorb all of the heat and become malleable. Great for bending 3d prints into particular shapes though!
im almost giving up on smothing this. I thought the problem was abs and i started to use pla. Nothing. Paper filer doesnt seems to do ANYTHING to the piece. Using a drill still doesnt give a straight surface. I saw you saying that you do many rounds of smothing and sanding. Thats the only thing i didnt try yet. I had no idea about this, No one says that! lol
Lets try once again. *prays* lol
btw, your channel is amazing! I hope i get there soon
hm, an issue i find is that the surface has warped over time from the heat and layers of plastic, another one is that the surface is shiny and "smooth" but not geometrically smooth, like the spheres in the video are a lot smoother by the end of the various processes, but geometrically they are still very wobbly. my best tactic is to have some mechanical way of sanding the surface, for a flat surface i have the sand stapled to a plank, and the plastic piece is pressed and rubbed in one direction, back and forth, you get a very clean surface, because the mechanics remove my nerves and shaky hands from the process almost completely.
I’ve also seen people use lighters or something along the lines of something like a lighter or bbq lighter
A soldering iron should do the same right?
Yea
I just got a 3d pen today and have no idea how to use it so I just searched it on yt and I watched a video of urs before this one about things that 3d pen users do wrong and ur channel really helped me! Thx👍👍
Glad I could help!
What about an electric filer? The type you would see in a nail salon. I was gifted a 3D pen this Christmas so I'm pretty new at this craft. This is the first video I've come across that explains techniques in a way that actually keeps my attention. Lol. I will definitely be checking out more of your content. I love to sculpt but so far, this is quite different from sculpting. Lol.
could you do tthis with ABS? would be useful
0:34
For got my favorite method, go like this. Wood burning, sanding, torch to get shiny back.
In a few Days, I'll have to Do an oral presentation about 3D pencils and let me Tell you that it's one of these moments where you're like "THANK GOD THIS VIDEO EXISTS"
His voice is so calming wth
I would like to know more about the stainless steel tips for the wood burning tool. I have one of those with the brass tips...
amazing video! I don't 3d pen personally, but after watching this video, I might try it. Keep up the amazing work and you will get to 10K subs in no time!
Thanks- give it a try, it's a lot of fun!
*SMOOTH*
Hi Mr.Potent, very nice tutorial thank you for that, also I want to give you a tip for a great finish, after using the wood burner method you can add this one which is heating it with a heat gun, it takes practice but I am sure that you can make it possible 😀
Recently found a video where they used card scrapers to smooth 3D prints. Got some myself and they work wonders!
I had a feeling that 3d gloop might did the work like vapor smoothing on abs plastics.
Another way that I personally use after sanding is varnish (with brush), in case you don't wanna use lighter and risk to get burning marks.
Ah nice, thanks for sharing. You use a wood varnish? I'll have to give this a try!
@@PotentPrintables I'll sent you more info on insta.
Ok, thanks.
3D printing beginner here! thank you so much this video was very informative 💗
For sanding, why not use a sanding tool like a sanding tip on a dremel or one of those disc sanders? For the latter, you have ready access to different grits as well, although you'd need hearing as well eye protective equipment (safety first).
Edit: dremel doesn't work well apparently, but what about a disc sander?
Its better to have a controllable soldering iron. You can set the temp to what u want. Take care to not keept it too high if you are a beginner. For newbies: keep the temp low and be steady n slow with your hands. High temp can smolder the plastic.
You may also want to try a hot air soldering iron. They blow out hot air.
Or you can also use an old cloth iron for larger parts u may need to modify it to make it workable for ur requirements
the hakko t18 c3 is pretty amazing if you came into this already with a soldering iron. You have to be patient given it has less surface area but really effective. also just a heads up, the kit you link to does not include the smoother you are using.
Wood Burning tools are really good
I have the same wood burning kit. Id like to see what heat setting you’re using and about the stainless tips you were using. I was having trouble smoothing with the brass tips
For PLA I set it just into the orange section of the dial. The stainless steel tips I made myself from 8-32 threaded stainless screws, with a grinding wheel.
Sanding, filling gaps and sanding again will get you a mirror finish with progressive finer grit
Great info! Can you make a video on how you made your stainless steel wood burning tips?
Thanks! Check the pinned comment.
nice butterfly and pen
Another great video. Nice.
Thanks James!
did you ever end up making a dedicated video about your stainless steel tips?
id like to see that...
After Sanding so it's a smooth surface then take a quick torch on it. Brings out that shine. There is also painting it with 3d Printing Resin and then curing it might work.
I absolutely would like more information on how you made those stainless steel tips! What would you suggest for cleaning the tip. Just a damp cloth?
Someone else asked this question on a different video and I gave a bunch of details there:
ruclips.net/video/K2goTOoU5J8/видео.html
For cleaning it I just use a paper towel.
What about a Dremel? By the way, another great video!
Thanks. I've been wanting to try that, so you might see it someday in another video. If you try it let me know how it goes!
@@PotentPrintables I will let you know, my new pen will be here tomorrow, & Dremel is on the charger.
I tried dremel it’s not the best with a rough bit
Yo dremel is not worth the effort and the dirt. Its nicest using the heated metal method, u get best results and it makes no dirt. U can see a bigger difference when using transparent pla and use a dremel the pla gets white and looses the transparency. This does not happen when only using heat.
For the wood burning tips you made, it looks like they’re carriage bolts you’ve modified? What are the sizes for the thread and thickness? How’d you get the bolt head flat, grinder & sanding?
Cool video, subscribed. What about trying a heat gun or soldering torch?
you have a lot of patience omw - thumbs up just for that 😂😂😂
Did you ever make a video on the stainless steel tips?
Your video's are ❤️ tomorrow I Wil work for the first time with a 3d pen and I was looking for what information and your channel came up!
Thank you so much for your content Sir ⭐
New guy here. Nice work and I think the sanding then heat to bring back the color worked best. I'll have to buy a pen and give it a go. Just when I think I've done all the art I can do, I find video's like these lol.
Welcome and thank you! You'll have a lot of fun with it..good luck!
Can you make a dedicated video on how to make those stainless steel tips for wood burning too?
I tried an old soldering iron and it smudged black spots on an orange colored project I'm working on. Then I planned to buy wood burning tool and searched online but none has those flat tops you're using.
Please make a tutorial for those tips.
I haven't tested this out yet with PLA yet but with other thermal plastics. After you are done getting the final smooth shape you want, you can hit other thermal plastics with a heat gun lightly to reactivate the surface so that it returns to the glossy plastic look if it was able to be glossy originally (Worbla Crystal Art is one such plastic).
I suspect it needs practice and I would use a mini heat shrink gun instead of a large heat gun for control (I have both guns for this reason).
Hello! Can you help me find the best temperature to melt the plastic? What I use a soldering iron is unfortunately a bit burns the plastic and leaves a brown mark.
I think for pla it should be around 400-500°f
Nice video, question is there any other options to smooth down 3d pen projects without things that have to do with heat and stuff, like sandpaper?
That’s what I need I always thought how to smooth it out 😅🎉🎉
please tell me more about the stainless steel tips, thank you I found this video very helpful, liked and subscribed. I have ordered the same iron, it seems like the best one I have seen for the smoothing task.
Glad the video was helpful and thanks for subscribing!
The stainless steel tips I made myself from 8-32 threaded stainless screws, with a grinding wheel.
Can you plz send me a link for this woodburner in amazon
Could you use a heat gun to smooth 3D sculpture
For the tip on thr wood burner what did you use? I have tried this technique but I cant seem to find the right size sheet metal screw. It looks like you use a stainless steel screw but I've had a hard time finding the right one and when I did it seemed that you have yours bent to a slight angle which I have tried but failed to get a consisten result. When I followed this it seemd I was stripping the threads and not getting a good result. After watching your grind video do you think you could have done your oven smoothing technique on that project or is it too delicate and ornate of a shape?
You're the reason I got into 3D pens and will be diving back into it seeing as hie I have rolls and rolls of filament but lost some mojo after trying some projects that just seemed to be more deflating.
You are inspiring me again though and love your videos 👏👏👍👍
Super glad to hear you’re getting back into it! Glad my videos helped :)
The stainless steel tips I made myself from 8-32 threaded stainless screws, with a grinding wheel. Note I can only say this size works for the wood burning tool linked in the description. After grinding the head down to the shape I wanted, I made the angled bend.
I put a bunch of 8-32 nuts on the screw, stopping at where I wanted to make the angled bend. Then I clamped all the nuts in a vice and bent the screw. Once the bend was made, I was able to remove the nuts from the straight section with the threads intact.
Cloth buffing wheel with white rouge after the wood burning treatment!
The Woodburning is smoother than my enemies brains
Interesting video I enjoyed it I like all the different methods, i have never tried the gloop and probably now never will, as you have proved light file and sand then soldering iron wood burner best way.
Have you tried a heat gun that works or same principal small blow torch but move fast to prevent burning ?
Thank you! I have tried a small handheld heating torch but it either melts too much or too little- it is very difficult to control.
Do you have or would you make a tutorial on how to make the stainless steal tips? I would love to know how since all I can find are copper tips. Amazing video and much love from Canada 🥰
Thanks and hope everything in Canada is well! I probably won't make a video about it, but I used stainless steel screws and a grinding wheel to make the tips I have.
Potent Printables omg thanks for replying! I will try that 😊
Potent Printables Great video, love all your videos. Thanks for all the help!! Ive also tried to make them from stainless steel screws, bolts and not having great success. They are not heating up to same level as the rest of the tool,.When I grinned down the screws they still got the Philips head + showing .... The bolts are easier and I’ve even die’d them so they screw right on the wood burning tool,. But still i get the same problem. Could you explain a little more in detail how you got yours to work?
@Potent Printables Actually never mind. I figured it out.. And ill upload a video shortly on how to do it so no one else has to go through the same nonsense I did with screws, bolts, etc lol...
Your smooth was a smooth smooth
Im getting a 3d pen soon thanks for helping me how to smooth
These tips are cool , thank you Man .
No problem!
Great Video, what size screw (thread count) do you use for your diy tips?
Thanks. The thread size that fits the specific wood burning tool I have is 8-32.
Potent Printables Awesome thank you!
Thanks for another great video!
I'm planning to get my own 3d pen, this is really helpful. Thanks!
Please make a tutorial on how to make those stainless steel wood burning tool tips! Or link to where they can be ordered, I'm very interested in adding that to my 3D pen kit
Your videos awesome... and your voice is clear as glass! 👌
Thank you!
Fantastic!!! !!!
I’d like to know a little more about the silver tips you mentioned
here this video contains info about them and where you can get them ruclips.net/video/dQw4w9WgXcQ/видео.html
I like that you mentioned that you sanded for 30 minutes, how long did you use the wood burner for?
Oops I just got an answer by finishing the video 😉👍🏼
great tutorial , great work
Thank you!
This is so good. I've come to a similar solution for my 3d prints. I didn't want to paint them but almost majority do this. I feel like what's the point of filaments if this is the case. Anyhow, I've ordered a sanding hand tool (small and compact) and I think I'm going to order the wood burner too.
For the brass tips you have to clean constantly. It also could mean that the temperature is to hot so it’s burning the filament.
Is there anywhere I can get those stainless steel tips?
Will primer sand sprey paint work once you smooth it out?
Is it toxic when woodburning?
Hello,
can you test epoxy resin and trop it on the surface?
Thank you very much
Just by itself or after using a wood burning tool?
@@PotentPrintables only the epoxy resin. Before, you can Mix the resin with color.
I use Duramic PLA, It gets gummy in acetone but it wont smooth in a vapor bath.
I have found that an acetone soaked rag can be used to buff the print lines out.
You may want either a a pair of Butyl rubber glove(think heavy duty rubber gloves) or lotion because it can potentially chap your hands.
يا قدمي
آخر مره شفت المقطع من ٣ سنوات
❤
How did you make your "stainless steel custom tips" ???
I'm late to this but i would really appreciate more detail on the stainless steel tips!
To be onest I just add more and while it's hot and I use the side of the metal to smooth the plastic. Not the best but still works
Wow good Technic
Is wood burning the same as a soldering iron?
No it's not. Check out my Advance Tutorial- I talk about the differences in that video.
@@PotentPrintables Alright, thank you for the reply!
How about a propane torch to heat and remelt the plastic?
What is the tool name?Is there more tutorial to smoothing 3D pen besides this tutorial?
I just use my soldering iron at 530 degrees F
Love the vid man, wanted to check what can help smoth these and just Watched a vid from uncle jessy and he tries some stuff to smoth 3D prints maybe might work to 3D pen protects . He tryes resin in liquid form and sands it. He also talks about wood filler so not sure if you wanna try that , also XTC 3D, and finally talks about automotive filler/primer so if you try these and work might be cool to see a vid about it . Don't have the the hability to try all these myself .
How do you make those wood burning tips!? I've been searching for them!
this video shows it ruclips.net/video/dQw4w9WgXcQ/видео.html
What temp setting and how did you make your tip?
I'd say files are more for cleaning up arches or any small bumps you make.
I've found using a wood burner even with stainless steel tips gets some of the PLA stuck to the pen which then "cooks" and releases smoke. :x Any idea how to avoid this?
I always have a paper towel handy and I immediately wipe off the tip if this happens. I also periodically wipe the tip just to keep it clean.
Avoiding it totally is tough- keeping the tip moving as you smooth and not dwelling too long on one area helps a lot.
@@PotentPrintables Thanks for the advice! I am also going to return the one I bought and get a Walnut Creek woodburner since they seem to have a better variable temperature, hopefully that helps.
Keep in mind the Walnut set does not come with stainless steel tips. I had to make my own for the Walnut set that I have.
@@PotentPrintables Not sure I'm crafty enough for that so might just have to wipe them off a lot lol.
even after using a stainless steel tip it still leaves brown marks for me?
So can 3-d pen filament be extruded into silicone molds for resin casting and if so would it become smooth against the sides of a spherical mold?
Does the wood burner method mix the colors together
It can end up smearing them together if you dwell too long in one spot. I use a fine pointed tip at color transitions, to minimize any blending.
Hard to tell, is that gloop clear or black in color?
Mostly clear, but with a somewhat white-ish tint to it.
Thank you. Subscribed.
Can I super glue 3D pen stuff together?
very very gooooooood~~
thank yoooooou!!!
you wanna know what's smoother than wood burning? his voice.
you should try wood burning - sandingf - using a torche to heat the plastic but not melt it !
How do you keep your soldering iron clean while smoothing? I keep getting little bits of burnt plastic stuck to the project
I use a paper towel, folded over twice into a small square. I wipe the tip frequently because I am paranoid about ruining the model I am working on.
If you are getting little burnt pieces coming off your model it might mean that you have the temperature too high on your smoothing tool.
It's a good job.👍
Thank you!
how about a rotary tool? Dremel offers lots of abrasive tips...i think it would work too
will the brass tips always leave stains even if you sand it after ??it will be help full if you answer thanks.
Yes, it will still leave stains. I have not had good luck removing the stains, even with sanding.
Thanks! All I can say is BLAAAAAAAADE!
could we commission you to send us those wood-burning tips you made? also you should try wet sanding on a wood burnt surface
hello with the soldering iron it looks better but after the soldering iron and a coat of paint is it enough to even out a 3d rendering of a 3d print? because I would like to achieve a better result like 3D printing and I ordered a 3D pen I am afraid of not being able to obtain a clear result
how did you make the stainless steel tips ?