Red D Arc could not have asked for a better promotional video. This makes me want to hunt around the barns and fields in my small town to find an old welder. Great job on saving that piece of equipment.
Red D Arc is really awesome for stepping up and assisting in this great restoration! Really like the fact that they sent an actual person out to you instead of just shipping some boxes. I will definitely be keeping them in mind for future projects. BTW: Congrats on surpassing a quarter million subscribers...fantastic achievement :)
Your muffler support might do more damage than good as the motor is mounted on rubber therefore it moves and obviously that muffler is now stationary to the frame guard. The best solution has always been a flexible extension between the manifold flange of the muffler and the muffler then that mount you made will do no harm. You can get them made of stainless steel so they will last forever.
One suggestion, used the welders alot in Arizona. Had small gas shocks on side covers. You unlock and shocks would hold side panels out about 6" and allow good airflow and not expose unit to rain or snow. Great video and an ideal do-it-yourself project.
That first scratch is what sets you free. Put it on a plinth for display or use it and take the scratches. You can always repaint it in 10 years. I want to see this welder building its own trailer. And thanks to Red-D-Arc for the sponsorship. Smart companies are realising how valuable it is to sponsor or partner with trusted and respected youtubers. It locks the brand into a viewers mind better than any advertising.
Muffler doesn’t need to be mounted rigid. Since the engine is mounted on rubber, the muffler should be able to flex with the engine. The exhaust manifold is more likely to break mounted rigid.
Agree. If I understand correctly, the manifold break was because the long muffler and its weight acting like a high frequency pendulum due to the motor's vibration. It is suggested to disengage the muffler from the motor with a flex section (sim to a automobile or truck). Then the setup of rigidly bolting the muffler to the frame should be OK.
Agreed. Muffler needs to flex with the engine. I think the best way to secure it is to secure to the engine, so I can still move with the engine yet stay securely in place. Otherwise I will just rip apart that exhaust manifold even faster.
I agree, I think trying to keep the manifold from cracking you have certainly set it up to crack very near future. If you could make the muffler set in something similar to a motor mount with Rubber, to just keep it from some vibrations is your best bet. You have a good idea, but it needs to be Not so secure as Gary has pointed out. Rubber bushing or something to keep the vibration down, less secured as you have it now cause that will crack that manifold sure as we watched the video.
I have loved seeing this old junkyard welder turn into a lovely working machine that will give many years of serving again. Plus a big thumbs up to RED D ARC for sponsoring you for this build.
It's great you're hard mounts the muffler, but now you've increased the chances.Of that joint breaking because the muffler won't move with the engine you need to spring mount the exhaust manifold to the muffler
That is what I was thinking. Maybe instead of a steel spacer between the clamp and the frame a peace of that rubber pad and spring loaded screws/nuts .
I was thinking it would be better to add 4 hooks ⛶ underneath the hood and 4 other to the muffler and put some springs in tension in order to support some of the weight of the muffler.
5/18/24..great job restoring that BLUE LINCOLN Red-D-Arc Diesel welder/generator. Yes, it definitely needs mheels & some kind of box/basket for all leads, cabels/wires & misc. clamps, water proof box for rods & tools. This was a great video celebrating your 'hands-on' attitude & determination. A+👍👍⚙️🔩🔧🍺😊
You put so much work into this welding machine 👍🤩 that I can't stand to see the muffler mounted like this 😮💨. The muffler will not move, but the engine will still vibrate and the manifold will crack anyway 😱. Lift the muffler upwards or out of the housing and connect it with a stainless steel flexible pipe to the collector. Greetings from Poland. 😎
Some advice from an old pipeline welder who used for many years these small 250 amps DC diesel welders from Lincoln or Miller with Kubota, Mitsubishi, Perkins or Deutz engines, they all work just as well as more modern and fancy machines but whatever engine you use, if you want to use arcair gouging like you plan to do, you must do gouging at absolutely full 250 amps currant and if you do that for a long time, you might overload the engine and the generator and they will be very quickly overheat and get damaged, I know that because I did it many times😢 To really use arcair gouging without problems with a DC diesel machine, you must use a 600 amps DC diesel welder which is much bigger and expensive but will last much longer😊 Anyway you did a great revamping job and I am sure that you will be amazed how well these small machines weld, specially with good low hydrogen rods and I hope that you will use your new machine for many years and be happy with it All the best Serge
I'm a retired Electrical Engineer, and I found this series very exciting, despite I've had nothing to do with this kind of work that you do! Well done! 👍
You're and old soul you have pride in your work like a much older person would that was raised with integrity and respect. And this is a complement I would normally never give out .
Wow, always worth the wait for your videos! That machine turned out so well, can't wait to see it mounted on the trailer and put to work. As you already have the 240V output, a nice compressor added to the trailer would be a great idea, so you could arc gouge in the field as well... Thanks a lot for your work in front and behind the camera, big congrats for the 250k subs milestone! 👍👍👍
Needs a Salvage Workshop sticker/airbrush on the side and your signature beside it to show the workmanship and multi trade level skills you brought into this resurrection. Great Job Matt
Hope everything is ok with you and your family. Not seen you for two months now, we are missing your content. Love , health and respect from Scotland UK.
For safety reasons the 240v outlet should have a double pole breaker. If only one of those breakers trips the other side of the line will be hot making for a safety hazard. Very nice restoration!
Great job unit looks better than factory issues. I will take the liberty of 1 suggestion. If you are going to put many hours on the unit and or trailer it across much rough terrain. Please put some sort of vibration strain relief on your muffler to manifold connection. I suggest doubbling up the gasket and putting springs under the flange mount bolts or nuts.it does not need much room to wiggle. If you leave it mounted solid with the support brace to the frame it will definetly crack somewhere. You have put in so much effort I hope you take a few minutes to make the adjustment. Looking forward to seeing the unit up on the trailer. Keep up the good work.
So, I'm not really a fan of this channel BUT, I have to say, you did a awesome job on this welder. The darker Blue color you went with is a great color. You did an amazing job. Good work.
If you clamp the muffler to the support it will not be able to move with engine movement and you might still crack the exhaust manifold. Beautiful Restoration!
Hi Hope you are ok. Really miss your videos. Totally appreciate the effort that you put into what you share with all of us. Look after yourself and the family. Cheers Craig from Australia
I am planning on purchasing a new welder for myself for an early xmas present. I will be giving Red D Arc a call! Thanks for all of your postings and take care!
Those switch covers are designed to screw on instead of the nut and they'll tighten down all the way to the body work of the machine to make it waterproof
Looks and runs awesome. If I remember right. You said the paint you were using was automotive paint. If so, two questions. 1 Did you use automotive premier? and 2 Did you spray on a clear coat to protect the paint? If it is no to either of those. That is why it is scratching and chipping so easy.
Excellent job on the welder, it was a labour of love for getting a piece of older machinery back to a usable and aesthetically pleasing state. The older stuff was so much more robust than the things of today. We done, can't wait to see the trailer.
Part of my job as a mechanic at a remote mine in north Canada was repairing these welders. They are great machines, often the only engine that would start in -40 temperatures. I’d sure like to find one to fix up like you did. Good work to get it up and running again. 👍🏻
In the future , my friend used heavy duty conveyer belt as bushing and shield while repairing motor mount bushings; it can work for generator legs... Make three layers (3*4) 12 cut-outs...
I saw all of these 3 videos about this recovery and learning a lot. Please continue and make more videos like that. I think the main reason of paint issue is because you need to do putty on surface and make clean and smooth with sandpaper and after that spray anti rust on it and in last part using the main paint .
That little scratch will bug you to no end, I’m the same way. Even if you touch it up, nobody will see it except you and me. I’ve been watching you for a little while, since you were trying to get the last big truck started in the field. You started out just to get this welder/generator in running condition and it turned into a full restoration. I have to say you have done a Great job, on this outdated piece of equipment. But I can appreciate it, I’m old school.
Just reiterating what others have said... The muffler needs to be braced against itself, not against anything else. The rubber mounts under the engine means that the muffler and engine are one structural unit, while everything else forms a second structural unit. If you have the muffler to the external frame, you'll crack it almost immediately... The muffler and engine will want to move, and the external frame will try to prevent that movement. Well done on a brilliant restoration. This is such a gorgeous piece of equipment.
AWESOME JOB CONGRATS!.... YOUR THE KING OF RESTORATION! USE SOME CAULKING AROUND PLUG... silicone sealant caulk Similar to a shower, the best type of caulk for bathtubs is a silicone sealant caulk. This is because it will prevent water damage, leaks, or mold growth. A silicone caulk is also very flexible, which makes it ideal for the rapid temperature and humidity changes in a bathroom.
Brace the old muffler from the block and put a flapper on it. Bracing from the block lets it move with the engine as it vibrates yet keeps the upper end of it supported. The brace can be under the cowl so you don't see it.
Brilliant sponsorship with people related to what you're doing and not some food and drink company, what a finish have loved this build it's been brilliant. 👍
When opening a hole such as you did for the outlet. If you have the room behind it add a piece of wood using the existing mounting holes. This will give you a way to have a center you can use for the pilot bit on a hole saw thus allowing you to make the perfect round hole instead of having to use a die grinder.
You can stack hole saws into eachother, and use the inside smaller one as the center, to center the bigger outer one. Thats how we make 3/4 or 1" etc punch outs on electrical boxes the next size up.
Buy the 4200 or 5200 in 1/2" or smaller sized (1/4, 38") heat shrink Black on Yellow in the D1 style cartridges made for the cheaper Dymo label makers. They are made for the Industrial 5200 which also takes a 3/4" but the smaller sizes work well in the D1 style 150 and 160. Great for labeling. Also the nylon flat labels stick better than the polyester. Labeling conductors by wrapping the tape back on itself will result in it coming apart in a few days if you use poly but the nylon will stay together. They advertise the 4200 and 5200 as only for the Industrial models but they work fine in the 1/2" and smaller sizes in the smaller labelers and are the cat's meow for labeling wiring. I get the #18054, #18055, and #18056 heat shrink Black on Yellow (1/4, 3/8, 1/2). I also use the nylon black on yellow flat tape.
Well, looks like I'm going to have to go back in this series history so I can watch his progress from the start because of the quality of his restoration makes it so darn interesting.
46:10 You can buy polyurethane in different grades an mould it into your bolts . Some of the harder polyurethane can be machined easily but the softer stuf has to be frozen to machine it.
Very cool how Red D Arc/ Airgas hooked you up. It is funny how you can get every part for a SA-200 from the 50s from places like Stumpf Welding Supplies but many parts for your newer machine don't exist. Hope it provides you with many years of trouble free service.
Wonderful job on the welder/generator. On using the machine, remember that you have a collector's item. You can use it without beating it up. Though quite a few of the machines are from the 1960s, everything in my shop looks new, and all of it has been used, a lot.
I put that stall matting under my upright air compressor to damper the chatter on the concrete floor in my shop. It shows no sign of deterioration after 3 years with an air compressor vibrating on top of it.
Long time no see Matt but that video and thank you Red D Arc Matt I remenber when you got it this is a 300 degree turn around better then new thats what makes your videos the best its Matt or scrap yard and he well not like taken it to scrap if at all possible again thank you never miss oneand always cant wait for next video
Thoroughly enjoyed all three parts to the restoration. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Amazing transformation of an exceptional product. Look forward to seeing the trailer completed. Hats off to your product/supply partners.
That welder is looking amazing!!! Great job! 👍 Looking at that new frame, I was just thinking how many people are just going to put things on the top of the welder and damage your paint. I was also thinking that you could bolt a couple of army storage boxes (I have some that are probably about as wide as that machine but they're less then a foot wide, so not the small ammo tins) onto that frame (1 between the radiator cap and the exhaust and 1 directly over the front of the machine) that would give you a really handy place to store welding equipment as well as protecting the top from careless people. My tins are GB army surplus, but I'd be very surprised if the US army didn't make tins of similar size. Looking forward to the trailer part of the build 😊👍👍👍👍👍
1:12:40 Yet, the engine has motor mounts that allow it to move, so the manifold will STILL suffer movement and probably break. It's a good thing you thought it through. 🤣
Excellent restoration job of this generator, like it. Maybe you can make the trailer such the generator is enclosed with flaps to protect it plus storage space, so if you have to leave it outside its covered and protected while hooked up towing, while at it.. Great sponser have a nice day.
Greetings from Germany... Always enjoy watching your videos and it is worth the in between episodes wait... This D300k welder turned out really nice. I was happy to see a Muffler fix that just happened to work out nicely... Keep-up the good work and look'en forward to part 4. 😉
love all of your videos, have gone back to the beginning and viewed all but ~7 of old red. Aniously waiting for more, hope you are still going to release more videos.
You should have fitted resilient rubber engine mounts with earth bonding to the frame on one mount., you may find that manifold may crack through engine vibration with the silencer being mounted solid . But you have done a great job well done 👍
Red D Arc could not have asked for a better promotional video. This makes me want to hunt around the barns and fields in my small town to find an old welder. Great job on saving that piece of equipment.
You should use brass nuts and no washers on the exhaust manifold
Red D Arc is really awesome for stepping up and assisting in this great restoration!
Really like the fact that they sent an actual person out to you instead of just shipping some boxes.
I will definitely be keeping them in mind for future projects.
BTW: Congrats on surpassing a quarter million subscribers...fantastic achievement :)
Junk Yard Welder has been one of my favorite projects. Thanks for the interesting and hard work!
Your muffler support might do more damage than good as the motor is mounted on rubber therefore it moves and obviously that muffler is now stationary to the frame guard. The best solution has always been a flexible extension between the manifold flange of the muffler and the muffler then that mount you made will do no harm. You can get them made of stainless steel so they will last forever.
One suggestion, used the welders alot in Arizona. Had small gas shocks on side covers. You unlock and shocks would hold side panels out about 6" and allow good airflow and not expose unit to rain or snow. Great video and an ideal do-it-yourself project.
That first scratch is what sets you free. Put it on a plinth for display or use it and take the scratches. You can always repaint it in 10 years. I want to see this welder building its own trailer. And thanks to Red-D-Arc for the sponsorship. Smart companies are realising how valuable it is to sponsor or partner with trusted and respected youtubers. It locks the brand into a viewers mind better than any advertising.
> I want to see this welder building its own trailer.
Agree!
Muffler doesn’t need to be mounted rigid. Since the engine is mounted on rubber, the muffler should be able to flex with the engine. The exhaust manifold is more likely to break mounted rigid.
He should replace the metal spacer with a rubber pad.
I agree. Or at the very least find a flexible joint to go between the exhaust manifold and muffler.
Agree. If I understand correctly, the manifold break was because the long muffler and its weight acting like a high frequency pendulum due to the motor's vibration. It is suggested to disengage the muffler from the motor with a flex section (sim to a automobile or truck). Then the setup of rigidly bolting the muffler to the frame should be OK.
Agreed. Muffler needs to flex with the engine. I think the best way to secure it is to secure to the engine, so I can still move with the engine yet stay securely in place. Otherwise I will just rip apart that exhaust manifold even faster.
I agree, I think trying to keep the manifold from cracking you have certainly set it up to crack very near future. If you could make the muffler set in something similar to a motor mount with Rubber, to just keep it from some vibrations is your best bet. You have a good idea, but it needs to be Not so secure as Gary has pointed out. Rubber bushing or something to keep the vibration down, less secured as you have it now cause that will crack that manifold sure as we watched the video.
From a junkyard special to a beautiful machine. The colors are fantastic. Looks like a brand new machine . Great job.
I have loved seeing this old junkyard welder turn into a lovely working machine that will give many years of serving again.
Plus a big thumbs up to RED D ARC for sponsoring you for this build.
It's great you're hard mounts the muffler, but now you've increased the chances.Of that joint breaking because the muffler won't move with the engine you need to spring mount the exhaust manifold to the muffler
Was thinking the same myself !
That is what I was thinking. Maybe instead of a steel spacer between the clamp and the frame a peace of that rubber pad and spring loaded screws/nuts .
I was thinking it would be better to add 4 hooks ⛶ underneath the hood and 4 other to the muffler and put some springs in tension in order to support some of the weight of the muffler.
5/18/24..great job restoring that BLUE LINCOLN Red-D-Arc Diesel welder/generator. Yes, it definitely needs mheels & some kind of box/basket for all leads, cabels/wires & misc. clamps, water proof box for rods & tools. This was a great video celebrating your 'hands-on' attitude & determination. A+👍👍⚙️🔩🔧🍺😊
Exactly. Needs some kind of flexible connection to reduce stress at the interface
You put so much work into this welding machine 👍🤩 that I can't stand to see the muffler mounted like this 😮💨. The muffler will not move, but the engine will still vibrate and the manifold will crack anyway 😱. Lift the muffler upwards or out of the housing and connect it with a stainless steel flexible pipe to the collector. Greetings from Poland. 😎
Some advice from an old pipeline welder who used for many years these small 250 amps DC diesel welders from Lincoln or Miller with Kubota, Mitsubishi, Perkins or Deutz engines, they all work just as well as more modern and fancy machines but whatever engine you use, if you want to use arcair gouging like you plan to do, you must do gouging at absolutely full 250 amps currant and if you do that for a long time, you might overload the engine and the generator and they will be very quickly overheat and get damaged, I know that because I did it many times😢
To really use arcair gouging without problems with a DC diesel machine, you must use a 600 amps DC diesel welder which is much bigger and expensive but will last much longer😊
Anyway you did a great revamping job and I am sure that you will be amazed how well these small machines weld, specially with good low hydrogen rods and I hope that you will use your new machine for many years and be happy with it
All the best
Serge
You took an old non working welder and transformed it into a beautiful operational welder with hard work and dedication. Awesome job!!!!
I'm a retired Electrical Engineer, and I found this series very exciting, despite I've had nothing to do with this kind of work that you do! Well done! 👍
You're and old soul you have pride in your work like a much older person would that was raised with integrity and respect. And this is a complement I would normally never give out .
Wow, always worth the wait for your videos!
That machine turned out so well, can't wait to see it mounted on the trailer and put to work.
As you already have the 240V output, a nice compressor added to the trailer would be a great idea, so you could arc gouge in the field as well...
Thanks a lot for your work in front and behind the camera, big congrats for the 250k subs milestone!
👍👍👍
Needs a Salvage Workshop sticker/airbrush on the side and your signature beside it to show the workmanship and multi trade level skills you brought into this resurrection. Great Job Matt
Speaks volumes about Red E Arc, just willing and wanting to help you with your machine, really came out beautiful, and it was plenty rough
Greetings from the UK. I've been looking forward to the last part of this series and I wasn't disappointed. Well done.
Hope everything is ok with you and your family. Not seen you for two months now, we are missing your content. Love , health and respect from Scotland UK.
For safety reasons the 240v outlet should have a double pole breaker. If only one of those breakers trips the other side of the line will be hot making for a safety hazard. Very nice restoration!
Great job unit looks better than factory issues. I will take the liberty of 1 suggestion. If you are going to put many hours on the unit and or trailer it across much rough terrain. Please put some sort of vibration strain relief on your muffler to manifold connection. I suggest doubbling up the gasket and putting springs under the flange mount bolts or nuts.it does not need much room to wiggle. If you leave it mounted solid with the support brace to the frame it will definetly crack somewhere. You have put in so much effort I hope you take a few minutes to make the adjustment. Looking forward to seeing the unit up on the trailer. Keep up the good work.
I was about to say the same thing lol
So, I'm not really a fan of this channel BUT, I have to say, you did a awesome job on this welder. The darker Blue color you went with is a great color. You did an amazing job. Good work.
Great job you did On that welder looking forward to see you make a trailer for it 👌👍
Ralph in UK
If you clamp the muffler to the support it will not be able to move with engine movement and you might still crack the exhaust manifold. Beautiful Restoration!
Nice job beautiful machine……… kudos dude…….👍👏👍👏👍👏👍👏👏👏👍👏👍👏👍👏👍👏
One of the best restoration videos ever. Not just got it running but it now looks brilliant. Well done
Hi
Hope you are ok.
Really miss your videos.
Totally appreciate the effort that you put into what you share with all of us.
Look after yourself and the family.
Cheers Craig from Australia
I watch it from Japan every time! Great job done!
Thanks for the difficult and hard work !👍
That is a project to be proud of. I'm really glad that it spiraled beyond your original scope because it really shows what you can do.
A flex joint between the manifold and muffler would be nice, good job.
What a wonderful series this is a testament of your determination and pride you take in your work. Thanks Red D Arc and associated sponsors.
I am planning on purchasing a new welder for myself for an early xmas present. I will be giving Red D Arc a call! Thanks for all of your postings and take care!
The rubber mounts we always used were old conveyor belt. Lasts forever.
Those switch covers are designed to screw on instead of the nut and they'll tighten down all the way to the body work of the machine to make it waterproof
That is really cool of Red D Arc. Definitely goes to show what kind of company they truly are.
Beautiful restoration ! Huge support from Red D Arc for your project. 👍
You out did yourself what a great job good on you
Holy Moly Looks like new! Great Job!
You really are proud if what you achieved - and so you should be.
Wonderful work, beautiful finished product and some great videos.
Red D Arc showed what a great company they are, and how customer-focussed they are in supporting your fantastic restoration.
Looks and runs awesome. If I remember right. You said the paint you were using was automotive paint. If so, two questions. 1 Did you use automotive premier? and 2 Did you spray on a clear coat to protect the paint? If it is no to either of those. That is why it is scratching and chipping so easy.
Excellent job on the welder, it was a labour of love for getting a piece of older machinery back to a usable and aesthetically pleasing state. The older stuff was so much more robust than the things of today. We done, can't wait to see the trailer.
Part of my job as a mechanic at a remote mine in north Canada was repairing these welders.
They are great machines, often the only engine that would start in -40 temperatures.
I’d sure like to find one to fix up like you did.
Good work to get it up and running again. 👍🏻
In the future , my friend used heavy duty conveyer belt as bushing and shield while repairing motor mount bushings; it can work for generator legs... Make three layers (3*4) 12 cut-outs...
I saw all of these 3 videos about this recovery and learning a lot. Please continue and make more videos like that. I think the main reason of paint issue is because you need to do putty on surface and make clean and smooth with sandpaper and after that spray anti rust on it and in last part using the main paint .
That little scratch will bug you to no end, I’m the same way. Even if you touch it up, nobody will see it except you and me. I’ve been watching you for a little while, since you were trying to get the last big truck started in the field. You started out just to get this welder/generator in running condition and it turned into a full restoration. I have to say you have done a Great job, on this outdated piece of equipment. But I can appreciate it, I’m old school.
We need an update on old red!!!
Just reiterating what others have said... The muffler needs to be braced against itself, not against anything else.
The rubber mounts under the engine means that the muffler and engine are one structural unit, while everything else forms a second structural unit.
If you have the muffler to the external frame, you'll crack it almost immediately... The muffler and engine will want to move, and the external frame will try to prevent that movement.
Well done on a brilliant restoration. This is such a gorgeous piece of equipment.
Project isnt a project if it doesn't snowball. Anything else is just a repair.
Nice job on the welder!
Cheers
Terry
AWESOME JOB CONGRATS!.... YOUR THE KING OF RESTORATION! USE SOME CAULKING AROUND PLUG... silicone sealant caulk
Similar to a shower, the best type of caulk for bathtubs is a silicone sealant caulk. This is because it will prevent water damage, leaks, or mold growth. A silicone caulk is also very flexible, which makes it ideal for the rapid temperature and humidity changes in a bathroom.
Brace the old muffler from the block and put a flapper on it. Bracing from the block lets it move with the engine as it vibrates yet keeps the upper end of it supported. The brace can be under the cowl so you don't see it.
Have watched your videos over and over were are you? Nothing for a long time,hope all Is well in your area,let us know.
Brilliant sponsorship with people related to what you're doing and not some food and drink company, what a finish have loved this build it's been brilliant. 👍
Very interesting series , and fantastic Refurb. A new exhaust manifold made a difference in appearance on top of everything else.
Stunning. Always excited to watch your videos. Tks for sharing.
Lincoln welders of that year were machine grey the GOOD WELDERS 😁are blue 😎. AWESOME RESTORATION 💪🏽💯🔥
When opening a hole such as you did for the outlet. If you have the room behind it add a piece of wood using the existing mounting holes. This will give you a way to have a center you can use for the pilot bit on a hole saw thus allowing you to make the perfect round hole instead of having to use a die grinder.
You can stack hole saws into eachother, and use the inside smaller one as the center, to center the bigger outer one. Thats how we make 3/4 or 1" etc punch outs on electrical boxes the next size up.
Buy the 4200 or 5200 in 1/2" or smaller sized (1/4, 38") heat shrink Black on Yellow in the D1 style cartridges made for the cheaper Dymo label makers. They are made for the Industrial 5200 which also takes a 3/4" but the smaller sizes work well in the D1 style 150 and 160. Great for labeling. Also the nylon flat labels stick better than the polyester. Labeling conductors by wrapping the tape back on itself will result in it coming apart in a few days if you use poly but the nylon will stay together. They advertise the 4200 and 5200 as only for the Industrial models but they work fine in the 1/2" and smaller sizes in the smaller labelers and are the cat's meow for labeling wiring. I get the #18054, #18055, and #18056 heat shrink Black on Yellow (1/4, 3/8, 1/2). I also use the nylon black on yellow flat tape.
Well, looks like I'm going to have to go back in this series history so I can watch his progress from the start because of the quality of his restoration makes it so darn interesting.
46:10 You can buy polyurethane in different grades an mould it into your bolts .
Some of the harder polyurethane can be machined easily but the softer stuf has to be frozen to machine it.
Very cool how Red D Arc/ Airgas hooked you up.
It is funny how you can get every part for a SA-200 from the 50s from places like Stumpf Welding Supplies but many parts for your newer machine don't exist.
Hope it provides you with many years of trouble free service.
Where are you? Missing you and your very entertaining videos!!!!
18:34 you can add a modern remote control switch to any shut down wires to shut it off remotely.
Wonderful job on the welder/generator. On using the machine, remember that you have a collector's item. You can use it without beating it up. Though quite a few of the machines are from the 1960s, everything in my shop looks new, and all of it has been used, a lot.
I put that stall matting under my upright air compressor to damper the chatter on the concrete floor in my shop. It shows no sign of deterioration after 3 years with an air compressor vibrating on top of it.
The 240 V plug you had never seen is common in Canada. My stove and clothes dryer use that style plug.
Airgas now owned by Sir Liquide since 2016.......very impressive restoration job you performed!
Air Liquide
Great job, good to see the machine fixed up and ready to go.
Long time no see Matt but that video and thank you Red D Arc Matt I remenber when you got it this is a 300 degree turn around better then new thats what makes your videos the best its Matt or scrap yard and he well not like taken it to scrap if at all possible again thank you never miss oneand always cant wait for next video
This project turned out to be awesome, very enjoyable.
This came out awesome. Looking forward to seeing it weld. Beard trim looks good too.
*Wow great restoration of this machine. Well done... great video to watch. 🙂Nice of Red-D-Arc to sponsor this video too 🙂nz*
Very good transformation! I'm looking forward to the trailer video.
super job
Beautiful old beast. Nicely done. I did much the same to a few Lincolns, 2 with Owen engines, one with a swapped in Model T engine.
Old rubber tires make good machine feet as well.
Thoroughly enjoyed all three parts to the restoration. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Amazing transformation of an exceptional product. Look forward to seeing the trailer completed. Hats off to your product/supply partners.
with a ridged muffler your going to crack your manifold unless you use a flexi joint
That welder is looking amazing!!! Great job! 👍 Looking at that new frame, I was just thinking how many people are just going to put things on the top of the welder and damage your paint. I was also thinking that you could bolt a couple of army storage boxes (I have some that are probably about as wide as that machine but they're less then a foot wide, so not the small ammo tins) onto that frame (1 between the radiator cap and the exhaust and 1 directly over the front of the machine) that would give you a really handy place to store welding equipment as well as protecting the top from careless people. My tins are GB army surplus, but I'd be very surprised if the US army didn't make tins of similar size. Looking forward to the trailer part of the build 😊👍👍👍👍👍
1:12:40 Yet, the engine has motor mounts that allow it to move, so the manifold will STILL suffer movement and probably break. It's a good thing you thought it through. 🤣
Awesome transformation. You have inspired me to buy a old generator welder and restore it or at least get it welding. Thank you for making videos
Scuffs and scratches...
They contribute to something called "Beausage". That's the beauty that comes through usage.
Excellent restoration job of this generator, like it. Maybe you can make the trailer such the generator is enclosed with flaps to protect it plus storage space, so if you have to leave it outside its covered and protected while hooked up towing, while at it.. Great sponser have a nice day.
Looks fantastic ! And works and runs as awesome as it looks !! Great job !! Looking forward to the trailer videos !! Thanks buddy !!
Great video! Much improved Welder. Curious to see what is next 🤔 Scratches give it character 🤔 Thank you for sharing 😊
Question what is your next Project 🤔 ??? The anvil or the bench vises grap ??? 😊😊😊 Keep up the Good Work 👍 👏 👌 🙌 !!!
Great job and video! Looking forward to seeing more about this project! Thanks have a good one!
Nice job Nice welding good show Nice Garage 😃👏👏👏👍👍👍👍
That was some absolutely great work. It looks better than brand new! I'm looking forward to your next video.
Greetings from Germany... Always enjoy watching your videos and it is worth the in between episodes wait...
This D300k welder turned out really nice. I was happy to see a Muffler fix that just happened to work out nicely...
Keep-up the good work and look'en forward to part 4. 😉
love all of your videos, have gone back to the beginning and viewed all but ~7 of old red. Aniously waiting for more, hope you are still going to release more videos.
This unit is looking Clean! Awesome job.
Nicely done!
looks great, sound great too
This is just what I needed to see today! Thank you for all the effort
Great Series, well done. You should support the muffler from the engine somewhere, so it can move with the engine on the rubber mounts.
Matt really love thses kind of machine maintenance videos
You should have fitted resilient rubber engine mounts with earth bonding to the frame on one mount., you may find that manifold may crack through engine vibration with the silencer being mounted solid . But you have done a great job well done 👍