SAVING an ABUSED Portable Welder from its Junk Yard GRAVE! ~ WILL IT START? ~ Red-D-Arc D300k P. 1
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2024
- Today's project is a forgotten welder generator that was used for a long time by my good friend Mike! This old welder has been sitting on his property for a LONG time, and he says it should run, but doesn't weld an longer.
So I did the right thing and took a chance on it and today's the day that we'll find out if I made a good decision or a bad one!
WILL it actually RUN, and if so, CAN we get it to weld?!? That's what we'll start with, because if it won't do those things, than it's just a bunch of parts!
This machine is a Red-D-Arc D300K 3+3 Diesel Welder Generator and has a Kubota v1902 4 cylinder diesel engine. The welder portion is made by Lincoln Electric and is pretty much a Lincoln Classic 300D, but it has been rebranded by Red-D-Arc and made more simple to be sold largely to rental fleets. These welders are very well known to be built like tanks and about as simple as a machine like this can get! That's exactly what I like about it!
Sit down, relax and let's see if we can revive Mike's forgotten Welder generator or if it turns out to be a pile of JUNK!
~
0:00 - Bringing in the Welder Generator from the COLD!
2:16 - Flashback to another SW Video - Exploring Machines at a Forgotten Junk Yard
4:41 - Walk around of the Red-D Arc D300K 3+3 Diesel Welder Generator
12:05 - Removing the Battery and Outer Covers & Checking if the engine Turns Over
15:50 - Checking the Oil & Removing the Air Filter Housing
17:04 - Figuring Out the Fuel Line Situation
24:21 - First Attempt at Cranking the Kubota V1902 with the Starter.. It tried to START!
25:51 - Setting up a Temporary Fuel System
33:21 - Will the Kubota V1902 Start & Come back to LIFE? ....It's ALIVE!!!
38:58 - Taking it OUTSIDE to really WARM up
43:16 - Does It MAKE POWER!?!?!?!? ......NOPE!!
43:34 - Changing the OIL & Oil filter
48:08 - Making an EXHAUST System so I can Run the Machine INSIDE the Building
53:55 - Trying to get the Original Fuel Pump Working & Working on the Fuel Filter Setup
58:21 - Here is How our Exhaust Removal System Works!
59:29 - Replacing the Kubota Fuel Bleeder Valve on the Injection Pump
1:01:16 - Re Installing the Electric Fuel Pump & Getting it Running AGAIN!
1:01:45 - Trying to back Feel the Exciter with a Drill Running in REVERSE
1:02:22 - Checking for Power Output from the Generator and Alternator
1:02:41 - Trying the Engine WITHOUT the Electric Fuel Pump.. IT WORKS!
1:04:05 - Diving into the Exciter Part of the Generator Setup!
1:07:50 - Cleaning & Painting the Air Filter Housing
1:09:40 - Diving into the BIRDS Nest of Wiring, Looking for Problems
1:15:37 - Trying to Excite the Field on the Exciter side of the Generator
1:16:46 - Testing the Hour Meter & Oil Pressure Sensor
1:21:35 - Deep Dive into the Wiring and Fixing Small Problems One by One
1:23:15 - Testing the Electrical System... Did we fix ANYTHING?
1:27:27 - Replacing the Air Filter and Reinstalling the Housing on the Machine
1:29:30 - Fixing a DIODE that brings power from the Exciter to the GENERATOR
1:35:31 - Testing the Bridge Rectifier / Diode Bridge to see if it WORKS!?
1:40:26 - I Figured out WHY it has a Fuel Shutoff Solenoid!
1:44:27 - Going over the Electrical System, What I've Done, & It's Issues
1:49:48 - Will it FINALLY Make POWER?!? ...... It DOES!!
1:56:46 - Installing a new Bridge Rectifier and 15 amp Breakers
1:57:33 - The Hour Meter Went Crazy! & I Changed Switches & added a Light
2:00:00 - I Realized I Was Measuring VOLTS when I should've been Measuring AMPS
2:02:58 - Cleaning the Armatures on the Exciter & Generator & Brushes / Brush Holders
2:05:19 - Fixing the Cracking Welding Leads with Heavy Duty Shrink Tubing
2:07:52 - Making Cooper Crimp on Lugs for Welding Lead Wiring
2:11:50 - Making Welding Leads & Installing them on the Welder
2:22:28 - Will it FINALLY Weld for us?!? .....It WELDS!
2:27:08 - Checking Another Kubota Diesel for an Exhaust Manifold
2:28:53 - Taking a couple of my Weimaraners out for a Run in the WOODS!
2:29:34 - Thank for Watching... Don't miss Part 2!
~
If you have any suggestions, questions, or comments, please leave them below or contact us by email at: salvageworkshop@gmail.com
Thanks for stopping by, I truly appreciate your support!
#welder #willitstart #SalvageWorkshop 
Развлечения
![Oscar Maydon x Junior H - Volver Al Futuro [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sa52xabMSB8/mqdefault.jpg)
This was such a roller coaster of emotions. I cannot believe I watched a three hour feature film about a dude fixing a welder. No regrets
The momentary is a low oil pressure override switch. You hold it in at startup until it builds oil pressure. If you leave your new switch on, it will eliminate the safety features for low oil pressure and overheating.
Should’ve just left it like it was., it was like that and worked fine until someone else came along and started modifying it.
That was what I was yelling to my screen, too...
Yes. He needs to put the momentary switch back.
I was also yelling that at my screen the entire time he was talk about and changing it. Just jumped on my phone to check the comments to see how many people had mentioned it.😂
Kept thinking there was a reason it was done that way. This makes a lot of sense.
Your bridge rectifier is good, the reason you get twice the reading is your reading both sides. It should only read just like you tested. There are times you will need to flash your fields while it is running so that the lines of flux created will excite. Always make sure your brushes are free and make complete contact with your commutator or when you flash the voltage will not hit your field windings. Good job young man!
You nailed it. Back in the 70s I was in test inspect at Hobart Brothers main plant.
You saved me some writing ; )
Congrats on getting the welder up and running - working on wiring is something a lot of people shy away from but not you. Well done.
Just proves old stuff was made to last till the end of time
Love this videos
I probably have 25 years of age on you and I admire your drive and determination.
I wish more of your and other generations picked up the tools and at the very least, tried to use their hands!
Thank you for showing people, anything is possible with a little drive and determination!
Can’t wait for the next installment!
haha I'm a young 65 trying to learn, does that count? (Retirement = school of learn by trial and error)
Yep now we are retired we have time to try all those things we didn't while we were working. Just enjoy what ever you do. Good health to you.@@Dagrond
Most of us don’t have the luxury of having a large property with a workshop or any other place to do any of this even if we wanted to.
@@TheXGamer969In my opinion, that is not a great way to think... you may not have a shop or large property, but you dont have to START with the types of machines i tend to work on... i definetly didn't have ANYTHING when i started tinkering with machines... remember you can start with something as simple as an ANVIL or bench vise, ive got videos working on BOTH of those... if you keep thinking that since you dont have the space, tools, shop, machines, or whatever else that you CAN'T do this type of thing, then you'll never take the first step, which is challenging yourself to try something new (whatever that may be!)...if you want to do something, like REALLY want to do it, then you'll find a way!
Hardly ANYONE starts with what you see youtubers like myself with, i have been collecting and investing in my passions for over 20+ years, but i started with nothing while still living at home with my parents!
Good luck with your passions! If you're willing to try, you can do anything!
@@TheXGamer969 You sound angry
I love watching you work on all this old stuff. The world is just disposable now.
You're so true, my 30 year old kids get fed up with me banging on about the good old days, when you used to be able to change the valves on your TV and Radio. 👍
Congratulations, it does deserve a part II. With all the cleaning and reconnecting of all the electrical connections that you did, you deserve the rewards. Great job, and keep the video going.
Excellent video, I'm a Master Electrician with over 45 years experience but it's the first time iv'e seen someone make a cable lug out of copper tubing.👍
Its a very good idea, but maybe too thin for this purpose, it maybe limited the current and burn away over time, see how Massive the copper is on the electrode holder around the cable..
There's someone else on RUclips who I've seen do it.
@BenjiKimba
It can cause issues, especially with thin-wall, but if you need something in a pinch for testing or to finish up a job, it does the trick.
I'd agree with you that it'd be best to order up the right pieces for a more permanent solution.
The thing that I've seen cause issue is where you have to crimp down the section, with too thin of material it tends to fatigue fracture at that seam/crease, especially if you fail to anneal it after re-forming (prior to crimp or solder).
I also use it all the time since readily available ones are too expensive. And for tractor or machinery use it's perfect. Just solder the wire in and done
@typrus6377 Yes, for moderate currents its okay, you can improve it by take a same piece of tube, saw it in over the lengt on one side, and shift it over the other one, also flattens the end and drill a hole in it so both can be mounted the same, even multiply if necessary to get enough copper thickness, and clamp it together.
Nice to see some proper swedish workwear!! Thumbs up from the arctic circle.
A great way to spend 2 1/2 hours. You sound so positive these days. Thank you.
My friends at the gas utility where I worked for 30 years swore up and down that they would NOT want any other welder than this one. The higher ups bought them new Miller machines. They OUTRIGHT told them they wanted their Lincolns back hands down. They got 'em back ! That is a great welder you have there.
Oh the tribalism... a real sign of intellect.
This is a really cool machine with lots of character. But the Miller replacements can run circles around this machine not to mention that parts are readily available. Not sure how they got these old machines back after they were taken out of service. Sounds more more like a movie than reality.
You shouldn't replace the momentary switch with an on off switch. The purpose of that switch is to bypass the oil pressure switch when starting the engine so the lack of oil pressure doesn't turn off the fuel solenoid when starting the engine. As soon as it builds oil pressure the momentary switch should be released and not used again until the next time you start the engine. If you use an on off switch and leave it on when the engine is running the engine wouldn't shut down if it loses oil pressure. That is also why the hour meter kept running when the engine was off. The oil pressure switch probably turns on the hour meter when there is oil pressure if it is working correctly and is connected to the solenoid switch correctly. If you do use a toggle switch only turn it on when starting the engine until it builds oil pressure so it keeps the fuel on.
Just remember with enough grinding disc anyone can look like a professional.. LoL
And paint covers a multitude of sons.
Long format videos are great!!! There are many out there with ADD, but I prefer to see the WHOLE project, not just the cuts.
ADHD'er here-
I love listening while I work, and occasionally stopping to look when occasion calls for it. Helps me focus.
Helps that mechanical things are my passion and profession.
Squirrel....
A very nice score and a great fix. I think the temporary switch was meant to be there, as a means to power the shutoff solenoid to start the engine, then once oil presure has been built, the shutoff will remain active until oil or iver heat.
now that was interesting, love the style, the hand gestures and the commitment to saving historical mechanical stuff.
Love seeing a video again would love an update on some of the old shop equipment, heavy equipment, if any more done to them or waiting on parts or been scrapped keep looking every week to see if you posted any new and still sometimes go back to the older videos
Welding unit deserves a custom paint job, candy root beer with flake, any candy with flake 🤘💯
I agree... don't miss part 2, I think you'll enjoy it!
@@SalvageWorkshop Chrome pipe, turbo and use the back light on the gauges as your pilot light.
Custom stainless header
Nice job of bringing that welder/generator back to life, you have got yourself an excellent welder on your hands. Like your step by step approach to refurbishing the unit and cleaning and replacing the wire connections as well as the some of the wires. Thanks for the video, appreciate the time and effort you put into them. Looking forward to part 2.
Finally a sign of life from you! And also one in XXL size...
Thx a lot, always a joy watching your efforts!
👍👍👍
To say that this machine was rode hard and put away wet would be an understatement
Murphy switch for fuel disconnect. Rental safe from abuse with no oil or overheating
I worked in the oilfield in my 20’s these units were a dime a dozen but are excellent! So glad I learned the skill in high school shop class
Comme c’est fou de voir une telle réparation.
C’est formidable !
This is such a good channel. Been watching for years. Always save them for Sunday mornings. Really appreciate what you do.
A small zip tie wrapped around the wire before putting the wire in the connector keeps the frayed end of the wire together so they don't catch on the connector as you try to put the two together - clip the zip tie off after the wire starts into the connector.
One thing to keep in mind when using power tools with the older engine drive welders is to use only power tools that are rated AC/DC because if you attempt to use anything with a variable speed then it will either fry the switch or burn the tool up. I learned that lesson many years ago with a Hobart welder.
By adding that on off switch you have negated the emergency shut off switch. Put the original switch back in and push it in when you start up.
Loved the video! Enjoyed your repair journey. Suggest that you assemble the copper pipe over the wire (up to the insulation), then solder from the open end then crimp/drill as a last step. Much easier with a better transition between insulation and fitting. A bench vise is also a great way to form that pipe end into a lug! ALSO be mindful whenever welding when your dog is nearby. Their eyes are even more sensitive to arc flash than ours.
Wow, what a marathon effort! I did not think that I would have sat through this video being so long, however, I was amazed with the effort you used to solve each problem as it arose. Good luck with Part 2.
the older SA200/SA300's had 3k generator output that was D/C,so you couldn't run variable speed electric tools on them,the newer ones were A/C
Great video. Love watching old stuff being fixed. I admire your patience. Well done.
I had previously thought all of these machines were based on the Lincoln 300, but that one may be based on the SA250. That said, I don't think any of the 250s had an option for a Kubota engine...but the 300's did and still do as far as I know. The Ready Arc variant was a really dumbed down version. It runs at one speed, where the normal version of the machine has a selector switch for auto idle(runs at lower speed until a load is detected, then automatically speeds up) or high idle(welding/generating speed). You can install parts from a standard version of the machine to get the automatic idle function.
I have a Lincoln SA-250, which came from a scrapyard. It was partially disassembled, but all the pieces were there and I paid $400 for it. Mine is a 1993 model IIRC and has the diesel Perkins D3.152 engine. This engine was also use in Massey Ferguson 135 tractors, some New Holland tractors, and other equipment. One thing I can tell you with certainty is that your method of starting with the engine is absolutely wrong. The generator portion of the machine should be checked for wasp or mouse nests(which you found, eventually, and lucked out that it didn't get sucked into the armature or field coils) and shorts before you ever try spinning that motor over. Forget the engine even exists until that's done. I see you have a number of other similar videos, so I offer this advice to save you from a costly mistake in the future. I don't know about the armature on that machine, but a new one for mine from Lincoln is over $3000. Getting the armature rewound costs about half that. Field coils were several hundred dollars when I last looked. Any of these parts are easily ruined by debris that could and should have been removed before the engine turned. Again, not checking will eventually bite you and may turn an otherwise good machine into scrap.
The fuel solenoid is there as an engine protection feature. If it overheats or loses oil pressure, the Murphy switch trips, shuts off fuel, and shuts down the engine...hopefully before any major damage occurs. My machine wasn't equipped with this option when originally purchased. Everything is easily available and not very expensive. I'll be adding it to my machine. The momentary switch is there to be used at engine startup. Remember the Murphy switch stops fuel flow if there's not enough oil pressure, and at startup, you have zero oil pressure, which means it also won't allow fuel flow. So to enable fuel flow, they add a momentary switch to override the Murphy switch. DO NOT defeat this with a constant on switch. Unsurprisingly, most of this information and some troubleshooting is in the manual, which is available on the Lincoln Electric website. Alternatively, you can call up Lincoln Electric and they'll probably put Bob Crow on the line to help you.
A set of Lincoln replacement insulated stud connectors for the welding leads cost something like $30 when I last looked. My machine needs a set.
@Salvage Workshop - So glad I run across this video. I will be the first to admit that I am not a mechanic, BUT I do have the desire to learn and I have learned alot from this video. I am in the process of rebuilding an '79 Lincoln SA 200 (gas engine) and it has so much in common with what you are seeing.
You my friend have earned a subscriber. Outstanding content and explanations along the way. This is what makes RUclips so great is when you find someone that explains stuff as they go along. Sometimes manuals and books just don't cut it.
Thanks Matt… you resurrected this machine from its rental-tired status. Great job. Nice to see your video.
You need to put that momentary on button back on..... You push it when cranking, until oil pressure builds. The way you set it up, will destroy the engine if it looses oil pressure or the coolant temperature gets too high.
Glad to see you using a commutator stone to clean the slip rings. I've seen folks use sand paper or emery /crokus cloth which imbeds small abrasives in the slip rings turning then into brush grinders lol
You need to seat the brushes. Brush Seater and Commutator Cleaner, 1-1/8" X 5/8" X 4-3/4", Medium - 23008M
Sweeeet Jesus!!! A 2.5 hour video to watch. I LOVE IT!!
The main spec you care about when selecting an alternative oil filter vs. factory specified is the pop-off pressure for the bypass valve.
Most oil filter media are similar enough in mesh size that they will do a similar job in filtering crap out of the oil, so I wouldn't worry much about that; physically larger cans will be able to hold more dirt before they clog, which is a good thing, but if the bypass pressure is not the same as factory, the valve may pop prematurely, letting unfiltered oil just flow through the valve, or probably worse, it may not pop off at all and if you let the maintenance schedule slip and the filter gets clogged, it will starve the engine of oil... There is no correlation between bypass pop-off pressure and physical size (ie, just because it is the same or similar size doesn't mean the bypass pressure is the same), so you have to look up the spec for the original and the replacement filter..
Nice to see you again! Fun repair. Learned a lot for an old guy. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks for the info and video!.... Take an old truck box 8ft or 6ft and make a trailer .... cheap and easy to make and they tow nicely.
Hey Matt if you debur / ream your copper pipe when you cut it and the wire will slide in easier and also if you heat and fill the connector about 1/3 full of solder the wire will adhere better and no need to crimp it. Enjoy your videos man. Keep em coming
that was educational on the generator the diode was a cool diagnoses
your rectifier @ 1:30:00 is working 100% fine :) - this turns 3 phase a/c into d/c .. so the 3 terminals are taking each one of the phases and turning it into d/c, which is a single phase ... so no matter how you test it can ONLY go one way no matter which terminals you are testing.... you'll get two of them with half the value as the output because it has only gone through 1 diode at that point.... thats why you brought up double the values... it's working just fine :) - THANK YOU!!! You just helped me FULLY UNDERSTAND how it works... I wasn't sure of the values doubling either, but now it makes sense LOL
That momentary switch is override till open circuit condition on normal open circuit allowing start up
My guess is the shutoff solenoid is there as part of an overheat protection for the generator
I agree.
An example of commitment, energy, honesty and knowledge, roll on part 2.
You didn't really have it too hot for that weld (the porosity is kind of a hint); it's just mostly the nature of that joint, with the thickness of the metal, because you have to sit there for so long to fill it in. It would be better if you put a smaller weld across the root, clean it up and maybe grind it out a bit, and then in the next pass you burn out the rest of the impurities and do some filling.
You scored big time on that welder/generator. Im jealous! Lol. Keep up the good work. YOU. ARE. AWESOME!
Best movie I watch since long time..I really enjoy every single second of this great step by step resurrection! Thanks for the treat bro!😊❤
The 120 volt plugs are actually fed from the generators exciter. The exciter is the smaller round bit sticking out of the back of the unit. The exciter output should be approx 120 volts. Check for a dirty slip rings on the exciter. That was my standard fix when I got a shift call out to a non-operational motor welder was to clean the exciter generator slip rings to get the generator working. This worked 99.9% of the time. Of course these welders were in use and hadn't been sitting in a field for many years.
I've been watching your videos for more than 2 year now , all I always loved is that you never quit ! Thank you for sharing this .
You don't want to even crank diesels without fuel to the injector pump. The fuel lubes the plungers and can be damaged quickly. The voltage from the welding leads is fine. That only changes with the fine dial. The amperage is what changes through the different connections from the coarse dial. Looks like a wonderful welder. And I love those Kubota engines. They last forever and always work.
You spoke about glow plugs.
I have the same setup on my 1710 Ford 3 cylinder diesel tractor that is about 35 years old.
Congratulations on reviving that machine. I'm looking forward to part 2 video. Thank you for sharing with all of us .
Patience, perseverance and resourcefulness. Hats off to you!
More oil capacity in the larger filter gives more volume for cooling as well as more square inches of filtration. Kind of a win/win if you have the room.
Another brilliant video and looking forward to watching episode 2 later this evening 👍👍👍
Glad to see you back, great video. Lovely Wiemeramers
I admire your troubleshooting and correcting problems with it to bring it back to life like in your other videos. Great job
Holy Camarata! 2 and a half hour feature length! Thats my sunday afternoon entertainment sorted😁👍
Hey! I used to work as a mechanic for Red-D-Arc about 20 years ago. In Canada. But I got shipped off to Georgia for a training course. Who knows, maybe I worked on that very machine. ;)
If they're maintained, they'll run damn near forever. I'd love to get my hands on one.
The fuel was gravity fed through the filter, to the lift pump, then to the solenoid (which IF memory serves was only used on the early models as a low oil pressure shut off), then to the injection pump. The return line off the end of the rail went... I don't remember. :(
That does look like the OE engine. V2203 was newer. I have some parts for a 2203.
I still have RDA STICKERS in my tool box! :D
They're fixed governed at about 1850rpm. Loaded would drop to 1800 to give you 60hz at the AC outlet (which not all versions had). It gets adjusted by the bolt on the injector pump where that spring is.
That Red D Arc logo under that one flap looks cool
Your walls in the shop are amazing 👏 😊
Great video but I was shouting at the TV…”gravity feed fuel pump”. 😅
Nice old welder and good job at getting it going again
Very nice job! If it’s worth doing. It’s worth doing right. Excellent video young Sir!
This was your best video yet. I really learned alot. You should be a shop teacher.
Nice long video to watch good job getting the ole welder working save a piece of history
Excellent video, looking forward to part II. When I watched You work on Old Red, I realized that Your skill level would help Me learn, thanx for sharing, well done and Salute from Florida.😃
Excellent video! Congratulations. Greetings from Barcelona, Spain.
Brilliant video I traded a set of trailer ramps for a ‘broken’ mig welder, I pretty much did what you did, cleaning repairing and replacing obvious bits, it took me about 3 months between paying work but I finally got it to go and it’s absolutely brilliant, big old thing with a remote top and it’ll do anything from bodywork to heavy steel. The best part is that I stuck with it and it’s a great feeling bringing good stuff to life.
Love your channel
"It's not the permanent fix." Brother, it's only temporary if it doesn't work. 🤣
Good to see another video out of you . Looking forward to more as you go along.. Enjoyed a lot how you refurbished the shop and got everything up and running.
*Wow what a great mission you were on with heaps of determination... and you got this old machine working again🙂 I shall be looking forward to part two 🙂 You & your family have a great week 🙂nz*
As an old #798 hand I I applaud your effort to restore a neglected/ tired Lincoln SA engine drive to service. That distinctive exhaust note of an F163 Continental, Hercules, Deutz, Kubota, Perkins is music to an old rod burner’s ears. Mr Kathy
Congratulations, on getting that machine up & running a lot of people might have given up but you have so much knowledge in many fields plus it's always a great video to watch
Keep well,
Regards
Steve UK London
I love love love your shop. You are my idea of the ultimate scrounge. Make do with what you have and MAKE IT WORK. also you have connections, infrastructure and know people who know people...well done sir.
thanks for the video was very interesting looking forward to part 2
Thanks Matt. Nice show !
To clean the exciter armature can be cleaned with the generator running and using pummis stone , as well as the main generator.
Congrats on your new .machine, that will come in handy, nice going
Make sure to provide incoming air, from outside, for the engine intake as well as piping out the exhaust. Otherwise, if the engine intake is sucking air from your shop, it will be drawing in cold air from everywhere it can, like from under that overhead door. It will get cold in your shop, fast.
My guess is that the temp gauge wired in tandem with the fuel solenoid works the same as a Murphy switch. It may be connected to your oil pressure sensor as well to shut off the engine if you were to overheat or loose oil pressure. Just my guess. Be safe. Thomas, Mississippi!!
Yep apparently the push button bypassed the oil switch
Awesome find man. I think I might have been as happy as you were when it fired up and lit the bulb.
Fantastic video! Have learned a lot from you over the years! Thank you for your time and determination!
Bridge rectifier - If you look at the picture - that one is ok. NO PROBLEM. The probe on one end feeds through two rectifiers and to the other side. Only in one direction. It turns AC voltage to DC voltage. The 12v needs to be added to the excite coil while it is turning. It must generates a field using many windings. The last two large wires on the master range switch show they were over heated in use and used much more than the others. The wire might be small to the current used generating the heat.
Looks like a good engine for your skid steer
Looking forward to the second one as well, this was enjoyable.
Well done sir this is a good machine to save keep up the awesome work six stars brother
Excellent video!!
You are measuring voltage at the weld cables, to measure current you need to put a load on the weld leads.
Outstanding work.
Great job fixing the welder we used to have a dc welder here in the uk used for welding jcb buckets it did a lot better job the the ac welder we had enjoy your welding with it regs Howie 👍👍👍
Great Job, i've learned a lot from you since I started watching your video's!!!!
Loved this video Matt. Especially enjoyed your electrical diagnostics and trouble shooting. Your use and descriptions of the use of the multimeter were very helpful. Keep up the good work.
Excellent information
Good job
Good to see the machine running, you'll enjoy it.
One the best videos you have done, Loved it!