I probably have 25 years of age on you and I admire your drive and determination. I wish more of your and other generations picked up the tools and at the very least, tried to use their hands! Thank you for showing people, anything is possible with a little drive and determination! Can’t wait for the next installment!
@@TheXGamer969In my opinion, that is not a great way to think... you may not have a shop or large property, but you dont have to START with the types of machines i tend to work on... i definetly didn't have ANYTHING when i started tinkering with machines... remember you can start with something as simple as an ANVIL or bench vise, ive got videos working on BOTH of those... if you keep thinking that since you dont have the space, tools, shop, machines, or whatever else that you CAN'T do this type of thing, then you'll never take the first step, which is challenging yourself to try something new (whatever that may be!)...if you want to do something, like REALLY want to do it, then you'll find a way! Hardly ANYONE starts with what you see youtubers like myself with, i have been collecting and investing in my passions for over 20+ years, but i started with nothing while still living at home with my parents! Good luck with your passions! If you're willing to try, you can do anything!
The momentary is a low oil pressure override switch. You hold it in at startup until it builds oil pressure. If you leave your new switch on, it will eliminate the safety features for low oil pressure and overheating.
I was also yelling that at my screen the entire time he was talk about and changing it. Just jumped on my phone to check the comments to see how many people had mentioned it.😂
Your bridge rectifier is good, the reason you get twice the reading is your reading both sides. It should only read just like you tested. There are times you will need to flash your fields while it is running so that the lines of flux created will excite. Always make sure your brushes are free and make complete contact with your commutator or when you flash the voltage will not hit your field windings. Good job young man!
You're so true, my 30 year old kids get fed up with me banging on about the good old days, when you used to be able to change the valves on your TV and Radio. 👍
Congratulations, it does deserve a part II. With all the cleaning and reconnecting of all the electrical connections that you did, you deserve the rewards. Great job, and keep the video going.
Excellent video, I'm a Master Electrician with over 45 years experience but it's the first time iv'e seen someone make a cable lug out of copper tubing.👍
Its a very good idea, but maybe too thin for this purpose, it maybe limited the current and burn away over time, see how Massive the copper is on the electrode holder around the cable..
@BenjiKimba It can cause issues, especially with thin-wall, but if you need something in a pinch for testing or to finish up a job, it does the trick. I'd agree with you that it'd be best to order up the right pieces for a more permanent solution. The thing that I've seen cause issue is where you have to crimp down the section, with too thin of material it tends to fatigue fracture at that seam/crease, especially if you fail to anneal it after re-forming (prior to crimp or solder).
I also use it all the time since readily available ones are too expensive. And for tractor or machinery use it's perfect. Just solder the wire in and done
@typrus6377 Yes, for moderate currents its okay, you can improve it by take a same piece of tube, saw it in over the lengt on one side, and shift it over the other one, also flattens the end and drill a hole in it so both can be mounted the same, even multiply if necessary to get enough copper thickness, and clamp it together.
A very nice score and a great fix. I think the temporary switch was meant to be there, as a means to power the shutoff solenoid to start the engine, then once oil presure has been built, the shutoff will remain active until oil or iver heat.
My friends at the gas utility where I worked for 30 years swore up and down that they would NOT want any other welder than this one. The higher ups bought them new Miller machines. They OUTRIGHT told them they wanted their Lincolns back hands down. They got 'em back ! That is a great welder you have there.
This is a really cool machine with lots of character. But the Miller replacements can run circles around this machine not to mention that parts are readily available. Not sure how they got these old machines back after they were taken out of service. Sounds more more like a movie than reality.
@@giggiddy ...not if you consult Lincoln weldors that do B or pipeline work...a generator is their first choice. and the ones from the mid sixties, all copper windings, are highly valued and much sought after
Love seeing a video again would love an update on some of the old shop equipment, heavy equipment, if any more done to them or waiting on parts or been scrapped keep looking every week to see if you posted any new and still sometimes go back to the older videos
Nice job of bringing that welder/generator back to life, you have got yourself an excellent welder on your hands. Like your step by step approach to refurbishing the unit and cleaning and replacing the wire connections as well as the some of the wires. Thanks for the video, appreciate the time and effort you put into them. Looking forward to part 2.
Loved the video! Enjoyed your repair journey. Suggest that you assemble the copper pipe over the wire (up to the insulation), then solder from the open end then crimp/drill as a last step. Much easier with a better transition between insulation and fitting. A bench vise is also a great way to form that pipe end into a lug! ALSO be mindful whenever welding when your dog is nearby. Their eyes are even more sensitive to arc flash than ours.
Great job fixing the welder we used to have a dc welder here in the uk used for welding jcb buckets it did a lot better job the the ac welder we had enjoy your welding with it regs Howie 👍👍👍
ADHD'er here- I love listening while I work, and occasionally stopping to look when occasion calls for it. Helps me focus. Helps that mechanical things are my passion and profession.
@Salvage Workshop - So glad I run across this video. I will be the first to admit that I am not a mechanic, BUT I do have the desire to learn and I have learned alot from this video. I am in the process of rebuilding an '79 Lincoln SA 200 (gas engine) and it has so much in common with what you are seeing. You my friend have earned a subscriber. Outstanding content and explanations along the way. This is what makes RUclips so great is when you find someone that explains stuff as they go along. Sometimes manuals and books just don't cut it.
Wow, what a marathon effort! I did not think that I would have sat through this video being so long, however, I was amazed with the effort you used to solve each problem as it arose. Good luck with Part 2.
Hey Matt if you debur / ream your copper pipe when you cut it and the wire will slide in easier and also if you heat and fill the connector about 1/3 full of solder the wire will adhere better and no need to crimp it. Enjoy your videos man. Keep em coming
You shouldn't replace the momentary switch with an on off switch. The purpose of that switch is to bypass the oil pressure switch when starting the engine so the lack of oil pressure doesn't turn off the fuel solenoid when starting the engine. As soon as it builds oil pressure the momentary switch should be released and not used again until the next time you start the engine. If you use an on off switch and leave it on when the engine is running the engine wouldn't shut down if it loses oil pressure. That is also why the hour meter kept running when the engine was off. The oil pressure switch probably turns on the hour meter when there is oil pressure if it is working correctly and is connected to the solenoid switch correctly. If you do use a toggle switch only turn it on when starting the engine until it builds oil pressure so it keeps the fuel on.
Brilliant video I traded a set of trailer ramps for a ‘broken’ mig welder, I pretty much did what you did, cleaning repairing and replacing obvious bits, it took me about 3 months between paying work but I finally got it to go and it’s absolutely brilliant, big old thing with a remote top and it’ll do anything from bodywork to heavy steel. The best part is that I stuck with it and it’s a great feeling bringing good stuff to life. Love your channel
Glad to see you using a commutator stone to clean the slip rings. I've seen folks use sand paper or emery /crokus cloth which imbeds small abrasives in the slip rings turning then into brush grinders lol
You need to put that momentary on button back on..... You push it when cranking, until oil pressure builds. The way you set it up, will destroy the engine if it looses oil pressure or the coolant temperature gets too high.
New subscriber here, and as soon as you pulled out the shop vac for step one of cleaning as you disassembled the machine i knew id be a fan. My father taught me how to troubleshoot and fix anything, regardless of how well you know the machine, and atep one is clean and disassemble. Once its open and clean you can start testing each weak point until you find the issue.
As an old #798 hand I I applaud your effort to restore a neglected/ tired Lincoln SA engine drive to service. That distinctive exhaust note of an F163 Continental, Hercules, Deutz, Kubota, Perkins is music to an old rod burner’s ears. Mr Kathy
Great Video, thank you for taking the time to document the way you were able to bring the welder back to life. I admire the way you problem solve and were able to work your way through the mess of old wiring and get it working again.
Hey! I used to work as a mechanic for Red-D-Arc about 20 years ago. In Canada. But I got shipped off to Georgia for a training course. Who knows, maybe I worked on that very machine. ;) If they're maintained, they'll run damn near forever. I'd love to get my hands on one.
The fuel was gravity fed through the filter, to the lift pump, then to the solenoid (which IF memory serves was only used on the early models as a low oil pressure shut off), then to the injection pump. The return line off the end of the rail went... I don't remember. :( That does look like the OE engine. V2203 was newer. I have some parts for a 2203. I still have RDA STICKERS in my tool box! :D
They're fixed governed at about 1850rpm. Loaded would drop to 1800 to give you 60hz at the AC outlet (which not all versions had). It gets adjusted by the bolt on the injector pump where that spring is.
I came across your video and your present setup and explaining what your doing is 100%! I have been a millwright and steam engineer for many years and the only strike i see is "BROTHER GET AND USE YOUR SAFETY GLASSES PLEASE!" I had a breaker with a direct short to GROUND explode right in my face yet lucky for me I had safety glasses & shield on! The shield had aclual pieces lodged in it! It ended up o a display that at the time was mobile promoting safety.
Congratulations, on getting that machine up & running a lot of people might have given up but you have so much knowledge in many fields plus it's always a great video to watch Keep well, Regards Steve UK London
your rectifier @ 1:30:00 is working 100% fine :) - this turns 3 phase a/c into d/c .. so the 3 terminals are taking each one of the phases and turning it into d/c, which is a single phase ... so no matter how you test it can ONLY go one way no matter which terminals you are testing.... you'll get two of them with half the value as the output because it has only gone through 1 diode at that point.... thats why you brought up double the values... it's working just fine :) - THANK YOU!!! You just helped me FULLY UNDERSTAND how it works... I wasn't sure of the values doubling either, but now it makes sense LOL
Excellent video, looking forward to part II. When I watched You work on Old Red, I realized that Your skill level would help Me learn, thanx for sharing, well done and Salute from Florida.😃
One thing to keep in mind when using power tools with the older engine drive welders is to use only power tools that are rated AC/DC because if you attempt to use anything with a variable speed then it will either fry the switch or burn the tool up. I learned that lesson many years ago with a Hobart welder.
You spoke about glow plugs. I have the same setup on my 1710 Ford 3 cylinder diesel tractor that is about 35 years old. Congratulations on reviving that machine. I'm looking forward to part 2 video. Thank you for sharing with all of us .
Good to see another video out of you . Looking forward to more as you go along.. Enjoyed a lot how you refurbished the shop and got everything up and running.
*Wow what a great mission you were on with heaps of determination... and you got this old machine working again🙂 I shall be looking forward to part two 🙂 You & your family have a great week 🙂nz*
Watched up to 14:25 and you made 2 comments about "Sheetmetal Screws". They are Tech Screws and are a Perfectly Acceptable to secure a cover of That kind. It is just you say it in a tone which demenes them. They are made for such projects, Grant it, they might not be origonal to tha machine. But So What?. Went on to watch the rest of the video. Good stuff. Enjoyed watching.
A small zip tie wrapped around the wire before putting the wire in the connector keeps the frayed end of the wire together so they don't catch on the connector as you try to put the two together - clip the zip tie off after the wire starts into the connector.
I can tell you your observations on the bridge rectifier were correct. + to - will test as a diode and as you observed, it looks like 2 diodes in series. ac/ac will always test open. There's a lot more to diodes than I can condense into a comment, but you're on the right track.
I love love love your shop. You are my idea of the ultimate scrounge. Make do with what you have and MAKE IT WORK. also you have connections, infrastructure and know people who know people...well done sir.
I very much enjoyed watching you work on the welder/generator. You take a very logical approach to troubleshooting and you have the resources to restore the equipment. And I agree, too much electrical tape is just about right.
The main spec you care about when selecting an alternative oil filter vs. factory specified is the pop-off pressure for the bypass valve. Most oil filter media are similar enough in mesh size that they will do a similar job in filtering crap out of the oil, so I wouldn't worry much about that; physically larger cans will be able to hold more dirt before they clog, which is a good thing, but if the bypass pressure is not the same as factory, the valve may pop prematurely, letting unfiltered oil just flow through the valve, or probably worse, it may not pop off at all and if you let the maintenance schedule slip and the filter gets clogged, it will starve the engine of oil... There is no correlation between bypass pop-off pressure and physical size (ie, just because it is the same or similar size doesn't mean the bypass pressure is the same), so you have to look up the spec for the original and the replacement filter..
Bridge rectifier - If you look at the picture - that one is ok. NO PROBLEM. The probe on one end feeds through two rectifiers and to the other side. Only in one direction. It turns AC voltage to DC voltage. The 12v needs to be added to the excite coil while it is turning. It must generates a field using many windings. The last two large wires on the master range switch show they were over heated in use and used much more than the others. The wire might be small to the current used generating the heat.
I have a SA200 Lincoln w/gas motor, looks just like it but is from the 70's. Make a living with it everyday it's not raining. Glad to see a good machine given some love and attention.... she will do you right.
Can't believe you sorted this thing out with careful observation alone. Great job, looking forward to the next one. Replacing all those connectors will help you sleep better too.
Very good job! This is how to learn, and remember what was learned. It seems that after fixing a machine, we understand how it works much better than before we had to analyze what it did, to fix it. Working late and alone is a really good way to "learn it good" Glad to see you doing what you are doing..
I had previously thought all of these machines were based on the Lincoln 300, but that one may be based on the SA250. That said, I don't think any of the 250s had an option for a Kubota engine...but the 300's did and still do as far as I know. The Ready Arc variant was a really dumbed down version. It runs at one speed, where the normal version of the machine has a selector switch for auto idle(runs at lower speed until a load is detected, then automatically speeds up) or high idle(welding/generating speed). You can install parts from a standard version of the machine to get the automatic idle function. I have a Lincoln SA-250, which came from a scrapyard. It was partially disassembled, but all the pieces were there and I paid $400 for it. Mine is a 1993 model IIRC and has the diesel Perkins D3.152 engine. This engine was also use in Massey Ferguson 135 tractors, some New Holland tractors, and other equipment. One thing I can tell you with certainty is that your method of starting with the engine is absolutely wrong. The generator portion of the machine should be checked for wasp or mouse nests(which you found, eventually, and lucked out that it didn't get sucked into the armature or field coils) and shorts before you ever try spinning that motor over. Forget the engine even exists until that's done. I see you have a number of other similar videos, so I offer this advice to save you from a costly mistake in the future. I don't know about the armature on that machine, but a new one for mine from Lincoln is over $3000. Getting the armature rewound costs about half that. Field coils were several hundred dollars when I last looked. Any of these parts are easily ruined by debris that could and should have been removed before the engine turned. Again, not checking will eventually bite you and may turn an otherwise good machine into scrap. The fuel solenoid is there as an engine protection feature. If it overheats or loses oil pressure, the Murphy switch trips, shuts off fuel, and shuts down the engine...hopefully before any major damage occurs. My machine wasn't equipped with this option when originally purchased. Everything is easily available and not very expensive. I'll be adding it to my machine. The momentary switch is there to be used at engine startup. Remember the Murphy switch stops fuel flow if there's not enough oil pressure, and at startup, you have zero oil pressure, which means it also won't allow fuel flow. So to enable fuel flow, they add a momentary switch to override the Murphy switch. DO NOT defeat this with a constant on switch. Unsurprisingly, most of this information and some troubleshooting is in the manual, which is available on the Lincoln Electric website. Alternatively, you can call up Lincoln Electric and they'll probably put Bob Crow on the line to help you. A set of Lincoln replacement insulated stud connectors for the welding leads cost something like $30 when I last looked. My machine needs a set.
15 years ago I come across near the same thing. But mine was a Hobart and it was paired with a Jeep Willy's gas engine. The previous owner told me that it had actually been in Pearl Harbor during the war. How he would know - I don't know....But I will say he was old enough to know. Anyway I truly wish I had your video to refer to when i was working on that old girl. A lot was different - But a lot was exactly the same. Same issues with exciting it. I noticed the first attempt at exciting with the double drill trick you didn't mention. But those of us who know - know. Beautiful job there boss. Your kids will be using that one for sure.
Definitely worth mounting it on a trailer. My main suggestion to you for this sort of equipment is to standardise components as much as possible. Means it takes more work to set up (because you have to modify things to your standard) but it's well worth it in the end. For example, when we built our equipment trailers we chose a standard rim & tyre, standard axle and standard leaf springs for the trailers. Easy. But we also chose a standard battery, and standard air, fuel and oil filters. Additionally the filters were remote mounted to make servicing cleaner and easier. Standard fuel tank with low pressure electric pump. Replacing any drain plugs with valves and hoses that lead neatly under the trailer makes for simple and clean fluid changes. We also standardised (as much as possible) on the instrumentation and controls. Another useful thing was to make up a plaque listing all the critical specifications of that machine: fluid capacities, servicing requirements, etc.
You might try going on line to see if Lincoln has a service manual on line for this unit. I have found manuals for several military gensets on line. You might also make a cover for the controls if you plan on using the welder outside. It will protect everything from excessive weather related wear and tear.waiting for part 2!!!
Wow, great job bringing the dead back to life! I got an old Miller AEAD-200LE , a somewhat smaller machine similar but powered by an Onan gas engine. Mine was found under a tarp on a ranch in the mountains and followed me home on it's little trailer. Stuck valves and a bit of other things I had to fix to get it running, so this was a neat video to see how you did a similar project. End result, we both resurrected a couple great little workhorses! I love bringing old things back to life!
That is a true Lincoln arc welder man. So smooth in the arc having stacks of power to burn rods away all day long. With a Kubota engine is what I call a late model welder. That is a business in your hand right there. Real welding is done with these! Show us part II for sure. Looking forward to it.
Awesome, thank you for sharing, always a pleasure watch your project, I learn a lot , you are a good teacher, your explanation are easy to understand , thank you for entertaining 👍👍👍👍
Enjoy your videos, very much appreciate how you show viewers that there are multiple ways to split wood and that anyone wanting to get into splitting should think about how is going to work best for them! Please keep up the good work and hope you sell all dry wood you have!
Loved this video Matt. Especially enjoyed your electrical diagnostics and trouble shooting. Your use and descriptions of the use of the multimeter were very helpful. Keep up the good work.
I always like to watch the more in depth restorations etc, Like how you spent the extra time cleaning up all the connections and painting the air box. Imo the extra work is well worth it, Stuff really looks nice when you give it a little tidy up
More oil capacity in the larger filter gives more volume for cooling as well as more square inches of filtration. Kind of a win/win if you have the room.
I probably have 25 years of age on you and I admire your drive and determination.
I wish more of your and other generations picked up the tools and at the very least, tried to use their hands!
Thank you for showing people, anything is possible with a little drive and determination!
Can’t wait for the next installment!
haha I'm a young 65 trying to learn, does that count? (Retirement = school of learn by trial and error)
Yep now we are retired we have time to try all those things we didn't while we were working. Just enjoy what ever you do. Good health to you.@@Dagrond
Most of us don’t have the luxury of having a large property with a workshop or any other place to do any of this even if we wanted to.
@@TheXGamer969In my opinion, that is not a great way to think... you may not have a shop or large property, but you dont have to START with the types of machines i tend to work on... i definetly didn't have ANYTHING when i started tinkering with machines... remember you can start with something as simple as an ANVIL or bench vise, ive got videos working on BOTH of those... if you keep thinking that since you dont have the space, tools, shop, machines, or whatever else that you CAN'T do this type of thing, then you'll never take the first step, which is challenging yourself to try something new (whatever that may be!)...if you want to do something, like REALLY want to do it, then you'll find a way!
Hardly ANYONE starts with what you see youtubers like myself with, i have been collecting and investing in my passions for over 20+ years, but i started with nothing while still living at home with my parents!
Good luck with your passions! If you're willing to try, you can do anything!
@@TheXGamer969 You sound angry
Just proves old stuff was made to last till the end of time
Love this videos
This was such a roller coaster of emotions. I cannot believe I watched a three hour feature film about a dude fixing a welder. No regrets
The momentary is a low oil pressure override switch. You hold it in at startup until it builds oil pressure. If you leave your new switch on, it will eliminate the safety features for low oil pressure and overheating.
Should’ve just left it like it was., it was like that and worked fine until someone else came along and started modifying it.
That was what I was yelling to my screen, too...
Yes. He needs to put the momentary switch back.
I was also yelling that at my screen the entire time he was talk about and changing it. Just jumped on my phone to check the comments to see how many people had mentioned it.😂
Kept thinking there was a reason it was done that way. This makes a lot of sense.
Your bridge rectifier is good, the reason you get twice the reading is your reading both sides. It should only read just like you tested. There are times you will need to flash your fields while it is running so that the lines of flux created will excite. Always make sure your brushes are free and make complete contact with your commutator or when you flash the voltage will not hit your field windings. Good job young man!
You nailed it. Back in the 70s I was in test inspect at Hobart Brothers main plant.
You saved me some writing ; )
Congrats on getting the welder up and running - working on wiring is something a lot of people shy away from but not you. Well done.
I love watching you work on all this old stuff. The world is just disposable now.
You're so true, my 30 year old kids get fed up with me banging on about the good old days, when you used to be able to change the valves on your TV and Radio. 👍
Congratulations, it does deserve a part II. With all the cleaning and reconnecting of all the electrical connections that you did, you deserve the rewards. Great job, and keep the video going.
Nice to see some proper swedish workwear!! Thumbs up from the arctic circle.
Excellent video, I'm a Master Electrician with over 45 years experience but it's the first time iv'e seen someone make a cable lug out of copper tubing.👍
Its a very good idea, but maybe too thin for this purpose, it maybe limited the current and burn away over time, see how Massive the copper is on the electrode holder around the cable..
There's someone else on RUclips who I've seen do it.
@BenjiKimba
It can cause issues, especially with thin-wall, but if you need something in a pinch for testing or to finish up a job, it does the trick.
I'd agree with you that it'd be best to order up the right pieces for a more permanent solution.
The thing that I've seen cause issue is where you have to crimp down the section, with too thin of material it tends to fatigue fracture at that seam/crease, especially if you fail to anneal it after re-forming (prior to crimp or solder).
I also use it all the time since readily available ones are too expensive. And for tractor or machinery use it's perfect. Just solder the wire in and done
@typrus6377 Yes, for moderate currents its okay, you can improve it by take a same piece of tube, saw it in over the lengt on one side, and shift it over the other one, also flattens the end and drill a hole in it so both can be mounted the same, even multiply if necessary to get enough copper thickness, and clamp it together.
A great way to spend 2 1/2 hours. You sound so positive these days. Thank you.
A very nice score and a great fix. I think the temporary switch was meant to be there, as a means to power the shutoff solenoid to start the engine, then once oil presure has been built, the shutoff will remain active until oil or iver heat.
My friends at the gas utility where I worked for 30 years swore up and down that they would NOT want any other welder than this one. The higher ups bought them new Miller machines. They OUTRIGHT told them they wanted their Lincolns back hands down. They got 'em back ! That is a great welder you have there.
Oh the tribalism... a real sign of intellect.
This is a really cool machine with lots of character. But the Miller replacements can run circles around this machine not to mention that parts are readily available. Not sure how they got these old machines back after they were taken out of service. Sounds more more like a movie than reality.
@@giggiddy ...not if you consult Lincoln weldors that do B or pipeline work...a generator is their first choice. and the ones from the mid sixties, all copper windings, are highly valued and much sought after
Love seeing a video again would love an update on some of the old shop equipment, heavy equipment, if any more done to them or waiting on parts or been scrapped keep looking every week to see if you posted any new and still sometimes go back to the older videos
Nice job of bringing that welder/generator back to life, you have got yourself an excellent welder on your hands. Like your step by step approach to refurbishing the unit and cleaning and replacing the wire connections as well as the some of the wires. Thanks for the video, appreciate the time and effort you put into them. Looking forward to part 2.
now that was interesting, love the style, the hand gestures and the commitment to saving historical mechanical stuff.
Loved the video! Enjoyed your repair journey. Suggest that you assemble the copper pipe over the wire (up to the insulation), then solder from the open end then crimp/drill as a last step. Much easier with a better transition between insulation and fitting. A bench vise is also a great way to form that pipe end into a lug! ALSO be mindful whenever welding when your dog is nearby. Their eyes are even more sensitive to arc flash than ours.
Great job fixing the welder we used to have a dc welder here in the uk used for welding jcb buckets it did a lot better job the the ac welder we had enjoy your welding with it regs Howie 👍👍👍
Finally a sign of life from you! And also one in XXL size...
Thx a lot, always a joy watching your efforts!
👍👍👍
I worked in the oilfield in my 20’s these units were a dime a dozen but are excellent! So glad I learned the skill in high school shop class
Comme c’est fou de voir une telle réparation.
C’est formidable !
Long format videos are great!!! There are many out there with ADD, but I prefer to see the WHOLE project, not just the cuts.
ADHD'er here-
I love listening while I work, and occasionally stopping to look when occasion calls for it. Helps me focus.
Helps that mechanical things are my passion and profession.
Squirrel....
@Salvage Workshop - So glad I run across this video. I will be the first to admit that I am not a mechanic, BUT I do have the desire to learn and I have learned alot from this video. I am in the process of rebuilding an '79 Lincoln SA 200 (gas engine) and it has so much in common with what you are seeing.
You my friend have earned a subscriber. Outstanding content and explanations along the way. This is what makes RUclips so great is when you find someone that explains stuff as they go along. Sometimes manuals and books just don't cut it.
Great video. Love watching old stuff being fixed. I admire your patience. Well done.
Wow, what a marathon effort! I did not think that I would have sat through this video being so long, however, I was amazed with the effort you used to solve each problem as it arose. Good luck with Part 2.
Hey Matt if you debur / ream your copper pipe when you cut it and the wire will slide in easier and also if you heat and fill the connector about 1/3 full of solder the wire will adhere better and no need to crimp it. Enjoy your videos man. Keep em coming
You shouldn't replace the momentary switch with an on off switch. The purpose of that switch is to bypass the oil pressure switch when starting the engine so the lack of oil pressure doesn't turn off the fuel solenoid when starting the engine. As soon as it builds oil pressure the momentary switch should be released and not used again until the next time you start the engine. If you use an on off switch and leave it on when the engine is running the engine wouldn't shut down if it loses oil pressure. That is also why the hour meter kept running when the engine was off. The oil pressure switch probably turns on the hour meter when there is oil pressure if it is working correctly and is connected to the solenoid switch correctly. If you do use a toggle switch only turn it on when starting the engine until it builds oil pressure so it keeps the fuel on.
Brilliant video I traded a set of trailer ramps for a ‘broken’ mig welder, I pretty much did what you did, cleaning repairing and replacing obvious bits, it took me about 3 months between paying work but I finally got it to go and it’s absolutely brilliant, big old thing with a remote top and it’ll do anything from bodywork to heavy steel. The best part is that I stuck with it and it’s a great feeling bringing good stuff to life.
Love your channel
Glad to see you using a commutator stone to clean the slip rings. I've seen folks use sand paper or emery /crokus cloth which imbeds small abrasives in the slip rings turning then into brush grinders lol
This is such a good channel. Been watching for years. Always save them for Sunday mornings. Really appreciate what you do.
You need to put that momentary on button back on..... You push it when cranking, until oil pressure builds. The way you set it up, will destroy the engine if it looses oil pressure or the coolant temperature gets too high.
Nice to see you again! Fun repair. Learned a lot for an old guy. Keep the videos coming!
New subscriber here, and as soon as you pulled out the shop vac for step one of cleaning as you disassembled the machine i knew id be a fan. My father taught me how to troubleshoot and fix anything, regardless of how well you know the machine, and atep one is clean and disassemble. Once its open and clean you can start testing each weak point until you find the issue.
As an old #798 hand I I applaud your effort to restore a neglected/ tired Lincoln SA engine drive to service. That distinctive exhaust note of an F163 Continental, Hercules, Deutz, Kubota, Perkins is music to an old rod burner’s ears. Mr Kathy
Thanks Matt… you resurrected this machine from its rental-tired status. Great job. Nice to see your video.
Thanks for the info and video!.... Take an old truck box 8ft or 6ft and make a trailer .... cheap and easy to make and they tow nicely.
Great Video, thank you for taking the time to document the way you were able to bring the welder back to life. I admire the way you problem solve and were able to work your way through the mess of old wiring and get it working again.
I've been watching your videos for more than 2 year now , all I always loved is that you never quit ! Thank you for sharing this .
Patience, perseverance and resourcefulness. Hats off to you!
Hey! I used to work as a mechanic for Red-D-Arc about 20 years ago. In Canada. But I got shipped off to Georgia for a training course. Who knows, maybe I worked on that very machine. ;)
If they're maintained, they'll run damn near forever. I'd love to get my hands on one.
The fuel was gravity fed through the filter, to the lift pump, then to the solenoid (which IF memory serves was only used on the early models as a low oil pressure shut off), then to the injection pump. The return line off the end of the rail went... I don't remember. :(
That does look like the OE engine. V2203 was newer. I have some parts for a 2203.
I still have RDA STICKERS in my tool box! :D
They're fixed governed at about 1850rpm. Loaded would drop to 1800 to give you 60hz at the AC outlet (which not all versions had). It gets adjusted by the bolt on the injector pump where that spring is.
I came across your video and your present setup and explaining what your doing is 100%! I have been a millwright and steam engineer for many years and the only strike i see is "BROTHER GET AND USE YOUR SAFETY GLASSES PLEASE!" I had a breaker with a direct short to GROUND explode right in my face yet lucky for me I had safety glasses & shield on! The shield had aclual pieces lodged in it! It ended up o a display that at the time was mobile promoting safety.
Congratulations, on getting that machine up & running a lot of people might have given up but you have so much knowledge in many fields plus it's always a great video to watch
Keep well,
Regards
Steve UK London
Welding unit deserves a custom paint job, candy root beer with flake, any candy with flake 🤘💯
I agree... don't miss part 2, I think you'll enjoy it!
@@SalvageWorkshop Chrome pipe, turbo and use the back light on the gauges as your pilot light.
Custom stainless header
You got it made, you are doing what most fellas are wanting to do, hands on working on machines
I admire your troubleshooting and correcting problems with it to bring it back to life like in your other videos. Great job
your rectifier @ 1:30:00 is working 100% fine :) - this turns 3 phase a/c into d/c .. so the 3 terminals are taking each one of the phases and turning it into d/c, which is a single phase ... so no matter how you test it can ONLY go one way no matter which terminals you are testing.... you'll get two of them with half the value as the output because it has only gone through 1 diode at that point.... thats why you brought up double the values... it's working just fine :) - THANK YOU!!! You just helped me FULLY UNDERSTAND how it works... I wasn't sure of the values doubling either, but now it makes sense LOL
I think he just drew the diagram wrong. The diodes make a loop in a bridge rectifier
Excellent video, looking forward to part II. When I watched You work on Old Red, I realized that Your skill level would help Me learn, thanx for sharing, well done and Salute from Florida.😃
One thing to keep in mind when using power tools with the older engine drive welders is to use only power tools that are rated AC/DC because if you attempt to use anything with a variable speed then it will either fry the switch or burn the tool up. I learned that lesson many years ago with a Hobart welder.
You spoke about glow plugs.
I have the same setup on my 1710 Ford 3 cylinder diesel tractor that is about 35 years old.
Congratulations on reviving that machine. I'm looking forward to part 2 video. Thank you for sharing with all of us .
Good to see another video out of you . Looking forward to more as you go along.. Enjoyed a lot how you refurbished the shop and got everything up and running.
*Wow what a great mission you were on with heaps of determination... and you got this old machine working again🙂 I shall be looking forward to part two 🙂 You & your family have a great week 🙂nz*
Well done on working through the issues on this one. Yes I remember the Dirty Turkey. I would love to see you get it back up and running.
Watched up to 14:25 and you made 2 comments about "Sheetmetal Screws". They are Tech Screws and are a Perfectly Acceptable to secure a cover of That kind. It is just you say it in a tone which demenes them. They are made for such projects, Grant it, they might not be origonal to tha machine. But So What?. Went on to watch the rest of the video. Good stuff. Enjoyed watching.
A small zip tie wrapped around the wire before putting the wire in the connector keeps the frayed end of the wire together so they don't catch on the connector as you try to put the two together - clip the zip tie off after the wire starts into the connector.
I can tell you your observations on the bridge rectifier were correct. + to - will test as a diode and as you observed, it looks like 2 diodes in series. ac/ac will always test open. There's a lot more to diodes than I can condense into a comment, but you're on the right track.
Best movie I watch since long time..I really enjoy every single second of this great step by step resurrection! Thanks for the treat bro!😊❤
An example of commitment, energy, honesty and knowledge, roll on part 2.
I love love love your shop. You are my idea of the ultimate scrounge. Make do with what you have and MAKE IT WORK. also you have connections, infrastructure and know people who know people...well done sir.
I very much enjoyed watching you work on the welder/generator. You take a very logical approach to troubleshooting and you have the resources to restore the equipment. And I agree, too much electrical tape is just about right.
Very nice job! If it’s worth doing. It’s worth doing right. Excellent video young Sir!
The main spec you care about when selecting an alternative oil filter vs. factory specified is the pop-off pressure for the bypass valve.
Most oil filter media are similar enough in mesh size that they will do a similar job in filtering crap out of the oil, so I wouldn't worry much about that; physically larger cans will be able to hold more dirt before they clog, which is a good thing, but if the bypass pressure is not the same as factory, the valve may pop prematurely, letting unfiltered oil just flow through the valve, or probably worse, it may not pop off at all and if you let the maintenance schedule slip and the filter gets clogged, it will starve the engine of oil... There is no correlation between bypass pop-off pressure and physical size (ie, just because it is the same or similar size doesn't mean the bypass pressure is the same), so you have to look up the spec for the original and the replacement filter..
that was educational on the generator the diode was a cool diagnoses
Bridge rectifier - If you look at the picture - that one is ok. NO PROBLEM. The probe on one end feeds through two rectifiers and to the other side. Only in one direction. It turns AC voltage to DC voltage. The 12v needs to be added to the excite coil while it is turning. It must generates a field using many windings. The last two large wires on the master range switch show they were over heated in use and used much more than the others. The wire might be small to the current used generating the heat.
I have a SA200 Lincoln w/gas motor, looks just like it but is from the 70's. Make a living with it everyday it's not raining. Glad to see a good machine given some love and attention.... she will do you right.
Can't believe you sorted this thing out with careful observation alone. Great job, looking forward to the next one. Replacing all those connectors will help you sleep better too.
Very good job! This is how to learn, and remember what was learned. It seems that after fixing a machine, we understand how it works much better than before we had to analyze what it did, to fix it. Working late and alone is a really good way to "learn it good" Glad to see you doing what you are doing..
I had previously thought all of these machines were based on the Lincoln 300, but that one may be based on the SA250. That said, I don't think any of the 250s had an option for a Kubota engine...but the 300's did and still do as far as I know. The Ready Arc variant was a really dumbed down version. It runs at one speed, where the normal version of the machine has a selector switch for auto idle(runs at lower speed until a load is detected, then automatically speeds up) or high idle(welding/generating speed). You can install parts from a standard version of the machine to get the automatic idle function.
I have a Lincoln SA-250, which came from a scrapyard. It was partially disassembled, but all the pieces were there and I paid $400 for it. Mine is a 1993 model IIRC and has the diesel Perkins D3.152 engine. This engine was also use in Massey Ferguson 135 tractors, some New Holland tractors, and other equipment. One thing I can tell you with certainty is that your method of starting with the engine is absolutely wrong. The generator portion of the machine should be checked for wasp or mouse nests(which you found, eventually, and lucked out that it didn't get sucked into the armature or field coils) and shorts before you ever try spinning that motor over. Forget the engine even exists until that's done. I see you have a number of other similar videos, so I offer this advice to save you from a costly mistake in the future. I don't know about the armature on that machine, but a new one for mine from Lincoln is over $3000. Getting the armature rewound costs about half that. Field coils were several hundred dollars when I last looked. Any of these parts are easily ruined by debris that could and should have been removed before the engine turned. Again, not checking will eventually bite you and may turn an otherwise good machine into scrap.
The fuel solenoid is there as an engine protection feature. If it overheats or loses oil pressure, the Murphy switch trips, shuts off fuel, and shuts down the engine...hopefully before any major damage occurs. My machine wasn't equipped with this option when originally purchased. Everything is easily available and not very expensive. I'll be adding it to my machine. The momentary switch is there to be used at engine startup. Remember the Murphy switch stops fuel flow if there's not enough oil pressure, and at startup, you have zero oil pressure, which means it also won't allow fuel flow. So to enable fuel flow, they add a momentary switch to override the Murphy switch. DO NOT defeat this with a constant on switch. Unsurprisingly, most of this information and some troubleshooting is in the manual, which is available on the Lincoln Electric website. Alternatively, you can call up Lincoln Electric and they'll probably put Bob Crow on the line to help you.
A set of Lincoln replacement insulated stud connectors for the welding leads cost something like $30 when I last looked. My machine needs a set.
15 years ago I come across near the same thing. But mine was a Hobart and it was paired with a Jeep Willy's gas engine. The previous owner told me that it had actually been in Pearl Harbor during the war. How he would know - I don't know....But I will say he was old enough to know. Anyway I truly wish I had your video to refer to when i was working on that old girl. A lot was different - But a lot was exactly the same. Same issues with exciting it. I noticed the first attempt at exciting with the double drill trick you didn't mention. But those of us who know - know. Beautiful job there boss. Your kids will be using that one for sure.
Definitely worth mounting it on a trailer. My main suggestion to you for this sort of equipment is to standardise components as much as possible. Means it takes more work to set up (because you have to modify things to your standard) but it's well worth it in the end.
For example, when we built our equipment trailers we chose a standard rim & tyre, standard axle and standard leaf springs for the trailers. Easy.
But we also chose a standard battery, and standard air, fuel and oil filters. Additionally the filters were remote mounted to make servicing cleaner and easier. Standard fuel tank with low pressure electric pump. Replacing any drain plugs with valves and hoses that lead neatly under the trailer makes for simple and clean fluid changes.
We also standardised (as much as possible) on the instrumentation and controls. Another useful thing was to make up a plaque listing all the critical specifications of that machine: fluid capacities, servicing requirements, etc.
Thanks for all the hard work and safety practices;YOU TUBE lucky to have you on Board
You might try going on line to see if Lincoln has a service manual on line for this unit. I have found manuals for several military gensets on line. You might also make a cover for the controls if you plan on using the welder outside. It will protect everything from excessive weather related wear and tear.waiting for part 2!!!
Thanks Matt. Nice show !
Wow, great job bringing the dead back to life! I got an old Miller AEAD-200LE , a somewhat smaller machine similar but powered by an Onan gas engine. Mine was found under a tarp on a ranch in the mountains and followed me home on it's little trailer. Stuck valves and a bit of other things I had to fix to get it running, so this was a neat video to see how you did a similar project. End result, we both resurrected a couple great little workhorses! I love bringing old things back to life!
Nice long video to watch good job getting the ole welder working save a piece of history
Awesome show!!
That is a true Lincoln arc welder man. So smooth in the arc having stacks of power to burn rods away all day long. With a Kubota engine is what I call a late model welder. That is a business in your hand right there. Real welding is done with these! Show us part II for sure. Looking forward to it.
Awesome, thank you for sharing, always a pleasure watch your project, I learn a lot , you are a good teacher, your explanation are easy to understand , thank you for entertaining 👍👍👍👍
Congrats on your new .machine, that will come in handy, nice going
Enjoy your videos, very much appreciate how you show viewers that there are multiple ways to split wood and that anyone wanting to get into splitting should think about how is going to work best for them!
Please keep up the good work and hope you sell all dry wood you have!
Loved this video Matt. Especially enjoyed your electrical diagnostics and trouble shooting. Your use and descriptions of the use of the multimeter were very helpful. Keep up the good work.
Sweeeet Jesus!!! A 2.5 hour video to watch. I LOVE IT!!
Great video but I was shouting at the TV…”gravity feed fuel pump”. 😅
That Red D Arc logo under that one flap looks cool
the older SA200/SA300's had 3k generator output that was D/C,so you couldn't run variable speed electric tools on them,the newer ones were A/C
Excellent video! Congratulations. Greetings from Barcelona, Spain.
Nice old welder and good job at getting it going again
Glad to see you back, great video. Lovely Wiemeramers
Nice one Matt, going to be a very useful bit of kit. Looking forward to part 2. 👍
thanks for the video was very interesting looking forward to part 2
This was your best video yet. I really learned alot. You should be a shop teacher.
I always like to watch the more in depth restorations etc, Like how you spent the extra time cleaning up all the connections and painting the air box. Imo the extra work is well worth it, Stuff really looks nice when you give it a little tidy up
Your walls in the shop are amazing 👏 😊
You do great job of explaining each step .
Looking forward to the second one as well, this was enjoyable.
More oil capacity in the larger filter gives more volume for cooling as well as more square inches of filtration. Kind of a win/win if you have the room.
nice bit of kit once the small jobs are done will serve you well for along time great videos thank you
Awesome video buddy that unit gonna make you a great tool to have with you on recoveries
GREAT VIDIO!!! Thanks for the detailed explanation of what you do great to see the old welder going again, love the dogs.
Just ran across your channel. Excellent video. I run a 2012 3+3 on my welding rig. Its simple but it works. Alberta Canada.
Fantastic video! Have learned a lot from you over the years! Thank you for your time and determination!