My 2010 e350 Benz was involved in collision months back , but now it says pre safe inoperative and occasionally throw me in park after matching a grinding noise whilst I’m driving more then 3 hrs while approaching a red light , have severe ptsd from this I wonder what’s the solution to fix ?
The first thing I would do would be to check the fluid level. I think I remember reading that low level fluid will cause the transmission to self-shift to park. It would also be a good idea to hook up a Mercedes specific scan tool to the car and see if it is throwing any codes that might give you a clue where to look for the problem.
One other thing I thought about was that if the accident involved the front of your car, it could have damaged the transmission cooler line that runs near the radiator, or into it depending on the model. That could cause a leak, or prevent proper cooling of the fluid which could also cause problems, or just inhibit the proper flow of transmission fluid that is necessary to keep your transmission cool and operating properly.
My 2010 GLK350 is having the same problem, its been 5 days now. I've been driving it locally, doesn't seem like anything is mechanically wrong w/it. (I need to make a 60 mile trip tomorrow, but I don't want to risk that there really is something mechanically wrong w/it). Ugh!
@@terria1254 I don't want to give you bad advice, but really don't mind driving mine whenever that error is showing either. One silly thing I've done that seems to reset the problem, if only temporarily, is to get up to 20 or 30 mph, shift into neutral, turn the car off for a couple seconds then back on. Of course your brakes and steering won't work quite right while the car is off, so do it someplace safe.
@@Mark_H_DIY Thanks, that's interesting! (I would try that in a parking lot). Its at the mechanic now, nothing mechanical failed...I have a friend who has the diagnostic computer thing, and we hooked it up, and it showed 2 faults on the ESP - Electronic Stability program(N30/4). I guess that's a plug in module. How many miles does your car have? Mine is a 2010 and just flipped 80,000.
@@terria1254 My 2011 GLK has over 170,000 miles. When I do get the code to clear doing my little parking lot trick, it's good until I turn it off again. That means I'll be able to use my cruise control on the interstate for long trips until I get it fixed. Please let me know what you find. This is a problem that a lot of GLKs have, and is usually something difficult to find.
@@Mark_H_DIY My mechanic said yep common problem on these and mine being a 2010, first year that model was built. Mine is not "talking" to the car. He's sending it to one of his guys for a rebuild. Its going to take a couple of days. I'll keep you posted!
I talked to several indy Mercedes mechanics and from what I heard it’s mostly internal fault inside the abs module located on the left side(us driver side) of the engine due to I assume heat. The ECU also have similar issue due to excessive heat by sitting on top of the valve body.
@@alanhsu5235 that's my assumption at this point, at least on my vehicle. I know there are many other things that can cause the issue, which is what makes it so difficult to pin down sometimes. Right now, my car quit throwing the code, so further troubleshooting will be impossible until it goes bad again. Last time, it took a year for the symptom to come back.
@@Mark_H_DIY same here, the only way to pinpoint is to use Mercedes xentry software to diagnose, but as long as it doesn’t show on the dash it’s not worth the hassle.
@@alanhsu5235 Mine acted up in Arizona, but stopped failing as I drove into cooler areas. I believe it's likely fractured solder connections in the ABS controller module. I may try to remove and repair it next time it acts up.
I had the same problem, the real way to fix it is verify that your battery have the correct tension, remember that te correct type of battery is AGM. If you use other type of battery you could have some problems
It's funny - my GLK didn't show this symptom for over a year, until a couple days ago. That was just a couple days after I ran the battery down while working on it in my garage. The symptom once again came, and then went without a trace, so it does make sense that it's voltage-related, at least this time (I believe from reading other reports that it could also be related to certain hardware failures as well).
Your X204 issue might have an entirely different cause than mine. The P0705 is pointing at the transmission range switch (that reports the gear your shift lever is in). That could be a coincidence - I'm thinking that a problem there wouldn't result in the error message I got (the one in my video)... but sometimes the systems in these cars are so interconnected anything is possible. It would be really helpful to hook up a two-way scanner and see what the wheel speed sensors are doing, and of course check the status of that stop light "switch" (the status should be available in the correct menu on any good two-way scanner). One thing I've done on any vehicle that seems to show a disconnect between the gearshift lever position and the "displayed position" on the dash is to do a "shifter row", moving the shift lever back and forth through its range several times quickly. This can often "clean" dirty connections in the switch itself (though if it's a magnetic sensor doing the reporting, chances are less that it'll do that - but it can't hurt!). ;-)
Really appreciate your help, Yes everything is interconected and appears to be the same error, but is different, I already tried the shifter row, calibrating the steering wheel, brake sensor, draining oil and physically cleaning the range sensor, apparently I will need a new eletronic plate, but Thank you very much, I just wanted to share what I have discovered in my case
I don't know where that position "switch" is, but it's funny if it's causing the problem, since one of the other common causes for this is the brake light "switch" (which is also a hall effect device, like the transmission range switch seems to be). From my very quick look, it seems that replacing that range switch might not be TOO bad a job (not sure where it's located - so it could be "interesting" if it's not accessible).
Ouch! Then I'd do a whole bunch more research before pulling THAT particular trigger! On my previous vehicles, that switch was external - never "easy" to get to, but not requiring a tranny fluid shower!
If you have this symptom, it could be a brake "switch" (see the description in my video), a wheel speed sensor, or possibly one of several other things. FWIW, it seems that most times when this happens, it stops in 1-3 days, and tends not to repeat. That's what happened to me - it's been about a year, with zero problems since I ordered a new brake light "switch" (but didn't receive it before the car "fixed itself").
@@birthofachampion18 honestly, I'd just let it play out for a few days and see if it goes away. That almost never, ever works with car problems, but in this case it seems to be a reasonable approach. If that doesn't work, I would suggest trying to replace the brake switch. It's not expensive, and it's very easy to swap out. Beyond that, it starts getting more expensive and complicated. You could try scanning the car with a Mercedes specific two-way scan tool, to see if there are any problems with the wheel speed sensors.
I can't be certain your car is having exactly the same failure mode as mine, but I didn't detect anything that would affect the safety of operating the vehicle because of the (presumed) brake switch failure. The one thing I'd suggest is to verify that your actual brake lights DO operate (if you don't have anyone who can look while you apply the brake pedal, you can just park the car where you can see a reflection in a window, or the glow of the lights against a garage door or really anything). And of course, you do want to apply the brake before shifting into gear (since if your car is like mine, I could shift without the brake being applied). My problem hasn't come back, so I haven't swapped out that brake switch yet, but plan to if and when it ever acts up again.
I had a flat tire. And drove on the spare for a day. When I put the normal wheel back, all of these lights popped up and I cannot turn them off. What do I do?
@@TheShalomPeace It could be a failed wheel speed sensor, so If there is any chance the one for the changed wheel was damaged during all the mounting and remounting wheels, check that. Otherwise it may just be the brake switch, and the timing is just a coincidence. It's a cheap part and a very easy DIY, so that would be my first guess. FWIW, I ordered the new brake switch and the problem went away before I got the part. It's been several thousand miles now, without a recurrence. If it does fail again, I will try to do a video on the (hopefully quick) fix.
Mine just started doing the same thing tonight. All 4 sensors bounce from actual speed to -600 something. We had a very heavy rain yesterday so I’m thinking that might have gotten something wet that shouldn’t be 🤷♂️
@@83K5Blazer There's a possibility that something is wet, will dry out and everything will be fine. My problem seemed to fix itself, and never came back, so I can't say definitively that it was that brake switch, or not.
I believe the problem was a bad brake switch, but by the time I received it, the car was working again. That was 10,000 mi and several months ago, and the problem has not come back. The brake switch is cheap, and very easy to replace, so I just carry a new one with me in case it ever happens again.
@@Mark_H_DIY ok I’m going to try to get a new break sensor switch . I hope my car is safe to drive for like 20 miles the breake feel a little weird . Just hope it doesn’t damage my car further
@@TheIcoolable it sounds like your problem may be different from mine, so please make sure that your brakes work adequately before trying to go anywhere with the car. It may still well be worth the effort to swap out the brake switch, since it's as easy as it is. Also, it would help to hook up a two-way scanner, and see if the car is throwing any codes that might help point you to something specific.
@@Mark_H_DIY that is true my problem could be different. I believe it is the same. I receive the same warning. Also, my cruise control does not work.. it happened this morning out of no where .
It does seem to be a very common issue. Thing is, most of the folks I've seen who have had the issue reported that the problem just went away after a day or two. Mine did (after I ordered a new stop light "switch", but before it arrived). There are several things that can cause the issue, so I'd suggest not going TOO far overboard swapping parts.
My 2010 e350 Benz was involved in collision months back , but now it says pre safe inoperative and occasionally throw me in park after matching a grinding noise whilst I’m driving more then 3 hrs while approaching a red light , have severe ptsd from this I wonder what’s the solution to fix ?
The first thing I would do would be to check the fluid level. I think I remember reading that low level fluid will cause the transmission to self-shift to park. It would also be a good idea to hook up a Mercedes specific scan tool to the car and see if it is throwing any codes that might give you a clue where to look for the problem.
One other thing I thought about was that if the accident involved the front of your car, it could have damaged the transmission cooler line that runs near the radiator, or into it depending on the model. That could cause a leak, or prevent proper cooling of the fluid which could also cause problems, or just inhibit the proper flow of transmission fluid that is necessary to keep your transmission cool and operating properly.
My 2014 E350 has the same Abs error along with check engine light from it
My 2010 GLK350 is having the same problem, its been 5 days now. I've been driving it locally, doesn't seem like anything is mechanically wrong w/it. (I need to make a 60 mile trip tomorrow, but I don't want to risk that there really is something mechanically wrong w/it). Ugh!
@@terria1254 I don't want to give you bad advice, but really don't mind driving mine whenever that error is showing either. One silly thing I've done that seems to reset the problem, if only temporarily, is to get up to 20 or 30 mph, shift into neutral, turn the car off for a couple seconds then back on. Of course your brakes and steering won't work quite right while the car is off, so do it someplace safe.
@@Mark_H_DIY Thanks, that's interesting! (I would try that in a parking lot). Its at the mechanic now, nothing mechanical failed...I have a friend who has the diagnostic computer thing, and we hooked it up, and it showed 2 faults on the ESP - Electronic Stability program(N30/4). I guess that's a plug in module. How many miles does your car have? Mine is a 2010 and just flipped 80,000.
@@terria1254 My 2011 GLK has over 170,000 miles. When I do get the code to clear doing my little parking lot trick, it's good until I turn it off again. That means I'll be able to use my cruise control on the interstate for long trips until I get it fixed. Please let me know what you find. This is a problem that a lot of GLKs have, and is usually something difficult to find.
@@Mark_H_DIY My mechanic said yep common problem on these and mine being a 2010, first year that model was built. Mine is not "talking" to the car. He's sending it to one of his guys for a rebuild. Its going to take a couple of days. I'll keep you posted!
@@terria1254 thanks! I'm looking forward to hearing how it works out...
I talked to several indy Mercedes mechanics and from what I heard it’s mostly internal fault inside the abs module located on the left side(us driver side) of the engine due to I assume heat. The ECU also have similar issue due to excessive heat by sitting on top of the valve body.
Some located in Scottsdale AZ and some located in Houston TX, both pretty hot area
@@alanhsu5235 that's my assumption at this point, at least on my vehicle. I know there are many other things that can cause the issue, which is what makes it so difficult to pin down sometimes. Right now, my car quit throwing the code, so further troubleshooting will be impossible until it goes bad again. Last time, it took a year for the symptom to come back.
@@Mark_H_DIY same here, the only way to pinpoint is to use Mercedes xentry software to diagnose, but as long as it doesn’t show on the dash it’s not worth the hassle.
@@alanhsu5235 Mine acted up in Arizona, but stopped failing as I drove into cooler areas. I believe it's likely fractured solder connections in the ABS controller module. I may try to remove and repair it next time it acts up.
@@alanhsu5235 I agree entirely. I have a pretty robust bi-directional scan tool and will dig deeper next time it acts up (I'll bet it will). ;-)
I had the same problem, the real way to fix it is verify that your battery have the correct tension, remember that te correct type of battery is AGM. If you use other type of battery you could have some problems
It's funny - my GLK didn't show this symptom for over a year, until a couple days ago. That was just a couple days after I ran the battery down while working on it in my garage. The symptom once again came, and then went without a trace, so it does make sense that it's voltage-related, at least this time (I believe from reading other reports that it could also be related to certain hardware failures as well).
X204 doing it for 2 weeks now, reads p0705 range sensor, y38s1, already changed the fluid and cleaned the sensor (is a magnet) no luck for now.
Your X204 issue might have an entirely different cause than mine. The P0705 is pointing at the transmission range switch (that reports the gear your shift lever is in). That could be a coincidence - I'm thinking that a problem there wouldn't result in the error message I got (the one in my video)... but sometimes the systems in these cars are so interconnected anything is possible. It would be really helpful to hook up a two-way scanner and see what the wheel speed sensors are doing, and of course check the status of that stop light "switch" (the status should be available in the correct menu on any good two-way scanner). One thing I've done on any vehicle that seems to show a disconnect between the gearshift lever position and the "displayed position" on the dash is to do a "shifter row", moving the shift lever back and forth through its range several times quickly. This can often "clean" dirty connections in the switch itself (though if it's a magnetic sensor doing the reporting, chances are less that it'll do that - but it can't hurt!). ;-)
Really appreciate your help, Yes everything is interconected and appears to be the same error, but is different, I already tried the shifter row, calibrating the steering wheel, brake sensor, draining oil and physically cleaning the range sensor, apparently I will need a new eletronic plate, but Thank you very much, I just wanted to share what I have discovered in my case
I don't know where that position "switch" is, but it's funny if it's causing the problem, since one of the other common causes for this is the brake light "switch" (which is also a hall effect device, like the transmission range switch seems to be). From my very quick look, it seems that replacing that range switch might not be TOO bad a job (not sure where it's located - so it could be "interesting" if it's not accessible).
Its a mess 😂 its submerged in oil, soldered to the electronic board inside the transmission, you have to replace the whole conductor plate.
Ouch! Then I'd do a whole bunch more research before pulling THAT particular trigger! On my previous vehicles, that switch was external - never "easy" to get to, but not requiring a tranny fluid shower!
I have a glk 350. What would be the problem?
If you have this symptom, it could be a brake "switch" (see the description in my video), a wheel speed sensor, or possibly one of several other things. FWIW, it seems that most times when this happens, it stops in 1-3 days, and tends not to repeat. That's what happened to me - it's been about a year, with zero problems since I ordered a new brake light "switch" (but didn't receive it before the car "fixed itself").
@@Mark_H_DIY like it just happened hit a little bump and then it popped on and I was like damn🤦🏾♂️
@@birthofachampion18 honestly, I'd just let it play out for a few days and see if it goes away. That almost never, ever works with car problems, but in this case it seems to be a reasonable approach. If that doesn't work, I would suggest trying to replace the brake switch. It's not expensive, and it's very easy to swap out. Beyond that, it starts getting more expensive and complicated. You could try scanning the car with a Mercedes specific two-way scan tool, to see if there are any problems with the wheel speed sensors.
@@Mark_H_DIY thanks It just cut off
This is happening to me right now, do you think it’s still safe to drive?
I can't be certain your car is having exactly the same failure mode as mine, but I didn't detect anything that would affect the safety of operating the vehicle because of the (presumed) brake switch failure. The one thing I'd suggest is to verify that your actual brake lights DO operate (if you don't have anyone who can look while you apply the brake pedal, you can just park the car where you can see a reflection in a window, or the glow of the lights against a garage door or really anything). And of course, you do want to apply the brake before shifting into gear (since if your car is like mine, I could shift without the brake being applied). My problem hasn't come back, so I haven't swapped out that brake switch yet, but plan to if and when it ever acts up again.
I had a flat tire. And drove on the spare for a day. When I put the normal wheel back, all of these lights popped up and I cannot turn them off. What do I do?
@@TheShalomPeace It could be a failed wheel speed sensor, so If there is any chance the one for the changed wheel was damaged during all the mounting and remounting wheels, check that. Otherwise it may just be the brake switch, and the timing is just a coincidence. It's a cheap part and a very easy DIY, so that would be my first guess. FWIW, I ordered the new brake switch and the problem went away before I got the part. It's been several thousand miles now, without a recurrence. If it does fail again, I will try to do a video on the (hopefully quick) fix.
Mine just started doing the same thing tonight. All 4 sensors bounce from actual speed to -600 something. We had a very heavy rain yesterday so I’m thinking that might have gotten something wet that shouldn’t be 🤷♂️
@@83K5Blazer There's a possibility that something is wet, will dry out and everything will be fine. My problem seemed to fix itself, and never came back, so I can't say definitively that it was that brake switch, or not.
My car is doing this right now how did you fix it
I believe the problem was a bad brake switch, but by the time I received it, the car was working again. That was 10,000 mi and several months ago, and the problem has not come back. The brake switch is cheap, and very easy to replace, so I just carry a new one with me in case it ever happens again.
@@Mark_H_DIY ok I’m going to try to get a new break sensor switch . I hope my car is safe to drive for like 20 miles the breake feel a little weird . Just hope it doesn’t damage my car further
@@TheIcoolable it sounds like your problem may be different from mine, so please make sure that your brakes work adequately before trying to go anywhere with the car. It may still well be worth the effort to swap out the brake switch, since it's as easy as it is. Also, it would help to hook up a two-way scanner, and see if the car is throwing any codes that might help point you to something specific.
@@Mark_H_DIY that is true my problem could be different. I believe it is the same. I receive the same warning. Also, my cruise control does not work.. it happened this morning out of no where .
Did you fix the issue with the new brake light switch (or maybe - like many others, including me, the problem just "healed itself"?
This is happening to me now
It does seem to be a very common issue. Thing is, most of the folks I've seen who have had the issue reported that the problem just went away after a day or two. Mine did (after I ordered a new stop light "switch", but before it arrived). There are several things that can cause the issue, so I'd suggest not going TOO far overboard swapping parts.
Zieme Road
Calista Street
Weston Overpass
Rath Square
Mueller Flat
Kuhn Mews