I wish i could fix my Megane.I have the same issue you're covering in this video. Cars just sitting in the garage. It makes the same rattling noise, Oil pressure fault light keeps showing. Any advise, suggestions?
Hi can I ask if not repaired what will happen eventually in your own opinion? My 2011 grand scenic mk3 has been doing this for maybe over a year now. Never knew what it was until I saw your video
also its a 54 plate pre facelift.. all my lights still work but one by one the electrics are going ..no front electric windows..blower only works on number 4 ..no display lights for heaters .
@@mechanicmatt871 how do i fix this? is it something i can do myself? with no front windows working also the AC has never worked since ive had it ..im gonna sweat to death come june
Hi Andy, your front windows not working could be down to a faulty module that is on the window motor, I have fit eBay relay replacements to fix this before. There is also a chance of a broken wire at the A pillar where the door hinges are. If you remove the door trim and check for power, ground and signal at the module. You could take the module off the motor and power up the motor with jumper wires (power probe) and see if the motor works. Your ac is possibly not working due to low pressure in the system and needs the pressure checking or scan the car for faults in the HVAC.
Hi,i didnt drive my car for few days,its Scenic 3 1.6 VVT,after i tried to start it sounded like tractor and shut off,it didnt happen again,after that it starts and drives fine,could it be solenoid not pumping oil properly,maybe it should be cleaned,or pulley is dying? How do you diagnose this problem
@@slavennikolic620 intermittents are hard to diagnose, the cam pulley should lock into place with no oil pressure, when it starts the oil pressure will take it's lock off. This wouldn't be a faulty solenoid it would be a faulty pulley itself, an oil change with an oil flush may help
Most of the time a temporary rattle is the vvt solenoid not pumping the oil correctly in the dephaser and dephaser get damaged over time because of the solenoid , either replace or clean solenoid with alcohol.
Meh, the dephaser pulley is just made from something soft unlike say a car's valvetrain... It is just a wear item really. Wears the worse you change oils. But it is so easy an cheap to swap that just use cheap oils and don't change the oils so often 😂
Mine is doing this too, going to try oil flush and change first...not been done for ages. Also, love your accent mate, heard the Scots in it then seen your flag! :)
Hi Matt, thank you for your clear informative videos 😊 I have a scenic 2006 1.6 with 120k km on it , the idle is not stable after 10 seconds from starting regardless if it warm or cold and the problem stays after driving . As per obd tool : - rpm plays from 700- 900 (not stable) - ignition time advance for #1 cylinder is also playing from 2 degrees to even 20 degrees! - short term fuel trim is with minus . - no fault codes I noticed also that when I press gas pedal slowly during idle it seems that it would die or stall (rpm is going down) ! But if I press faster the rpm increases normally. the car drives normal without any issues. No fault codes , I checked camshaft valve, sensors, etc … no success! Ordered new coils , sparks , crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor to try it and still waiting my shipment. I am lost in nowhere, maybe you have an idea ? Greetings from Austria 🇦🇹
Well, i have the same engine Megane mk2 2004, the problems you are talking about may be an electrical issue from the brain. You should check the main fusebox and the main computer if it got any water in it (may have in the past). They are usually located left side right above the tire in the engine bay.
@@yido5000 h the thank you for your advice, I have already solved the issue, the timing belt was one teeth forwarded , it took ages till I found it !! and I reinstall it correctly. Problem solved
- Thanks very much for the video. - Renault megane 2,the car starts but no idle. - I have some gum inside the dephaser like plastic,can be that this is part of the pully itself from inside ? .. - Sorry my bad english.
Yes, the loud rattle/knock on start up, would make anyone walking near to the car look at it with concern it would break. That noise went away. I was left with a quieter ticking from the hydraulic tappets, but that was fine. Thanks for watching. Have a nice day.
Hi, I have a Renault Mégane dynamique 1.6 2006, that makes the same rattle noise, but when I rev it up slightly it goes away, it doesn't always happen but is happening more n more, will this be the phaser pulley or the starter motor, any help be greatly appreciated
Mat attempting timing put dephaser out of line with timing locking tool. Are the two round holds on the dephraser pulley where you put the timing tool into. Also inlet cam seems more springee than outlet cam is this normal.
Yes the two holes in the dephasor pulley are where I put the locking tool. I seem to remember the inlet wanting to spring round out of alignment until I locked up the timing. It has been a while since I did this job so I'm sorry I can't be more help. Thanks for watching
My mk1 megane is making tapping noise around 2000rpm when engine is warm, can't figure out what is it. Sounds kinda like smashing elevator call button with metal rod if that makes any sense. Also when starting sometimes it makes loud CLICK noise and I suspect it's related to that knocking. As far as I know mk1 doesn't have VVT? I also checked crank pulley, rubber vulcanization had some cracking and pieces missing but pulley had no wobble when I loosened belt and tried it by hand so it doesn't seem to be the problem. I wonder if old aux belt tensioner could make such noise.
It is possible that it is the tensioner. Some times I activate the valve timing solenoid with the car running and listen for a change in the knocking sound to see if it is related to the dephasor pulley. I just noticed your comment and that it was made a year ago. Sorry for not getting back to you sooner.
@@mechanicmatt871 Oh thanks for replying. Yeah car still runs with the same noises and I decided to just live with it. Replacing crank+tensioner pulleys didn't solve it so it must come deeper from the engine and that means "expensive" so I'll just drive until it explodes, hah.
I have 2008 megane done about 70000 miles. Recently had full oil/filter change plus cam belt and water pump change.have done some 1000 miles since and the garage have said that the 'knocking noise' is the dephaser. would the work mentioned before have any relevance to this problem ? they have quoted me gbp 220 for one from renault although I see yours came from ebay and I have found others. Are the after market parts ok ? great video just watched for third time !
I think it had a T50 on the cap in the centre of the dephaser and it had a hex bolt behind that, I can't remember the size, I think it was 16mm. I got the torque settings from a Haynes manual. Thanks for watching, have a nice day
I’ve had a 1.6 vet for 2 years. It has always made this noise from cold but no other issues. For the MOT this year I did an oil change and since then I haven’t had this noise happening. Could it be that the oil was just too dirty for it to operate properly ?
How long does a new camshaft sprocket last before it makes this noise again. Reason i ask is renault dealer sells a modified version but its super expensive.
@@mechanicmatt871 so the answer to my question is 1 year lol I'm back k with the dreaded rattle. I'm thinking I could weld the pull in the locked position? I know I won't have full performance
Hi, it has been a while so I'm not sure if I turned the bottom pulley bolt to rotate, or if I turned it by the cam shaft pulley bolt ( although that's not recommended ) Thanks for watching
Hi Matt. Thank you for the video, I have a question if you don't mind? My 1.6 VVT is running slightly off when idle, it starts fine, no cutting out but I have the constant check emmisions and engine warning lights, the dephaser pulley doesn't appear to make a noise but my local garage advised it "might" be the pulley or the camshaft sensor. I've changed the coils, plugs and camshaft sensor and it's running slightly better but still a little lumpy. Can you advise at all? Many thanks.
Hi James, did you local garage scan the car for fault codes to see why the check engine light is on? If the car is only lumpy at idle, it may have an intake vacuum leak, if you have a scan tool with live data you could look at the fuel trim LTFT and STFT and see if the fuel trim improves ( goes closer to zero) when you slightly raise the engine speed, and see if the fuel trim goes higher at idle. See if you can get a fault code from the car first. Thanks for watching.
Hi Matt ! I check my dephaser , it has wear groove like yours , what about if I smooth it up with fine sand paper and assemble back ? It could be risky! ? Cause a new one cost £200 and if I want it cheap on Ebay I had to get it from Poland or Lithuania, but would I trust them? Is beginning to be a bit of a nightmare!
Hi you could try that and see. if it doesn't help, at least you can use the car while you wait on the new part. Are the eBay pulleys that you are looking at genuine Renault?
@@mechanicmatt871 Hi Matt . Just find one pulley on Ebay fit my car for £75 original Renault brand new from Wakefield, finger cross! Bargain! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
hey Matt, i'm thinking to lock my dephaser pulley to the lock position while i'm waiting for new part.my plunger is worn and doesn't lock anymore.it takes time to start as the timing is always out. what do you think ?
That makes sense if it's not locking, how are you thinking of locking the plunger, would it help you to just unplug the actuator on top of the cam cover while you are waiting on the new part. Thanks for watching
@@mechanicmatt871 actuator you mean the solenoid ? yes i will unplug, but i think still the pulley will be out timing although is not getting any oil pressure.i will lock by either removing the plunger and put pin or put spacers on the gaps.
Yes I do mean the solenoid, I had bother with one starting and running, I unplugged the solenoids to stop oil pressure getting into the dephaser pulley to stop the pin moving and it ran better. This was just a suggestion that may of helped until you get your new pulley. Although with your pin not holding it won't make any difference. I suppose in this case, you locking the pulley up with a pin will have the same effect I had by unplugging, it obviously brings on the engine light but it ran a little better.
@@mechanicmatt871 I have unplugged my solenoid to stop it stalling and as you found it has ran better with no loss in power, a unexpected bonus was it went from 34.5mpg to 39.1 mpg.
Yes I did I have a video with a different car and I show how I changed that. Here is a link to the video. ruclips.net/video/X4V_BheNUGc/видео.html Thanks for watching
@@mechanicmatt871 thanks. i have leak on pulley itself...i dont know how it happens? maybe some seal on pulley is leaking oil, i have to change the pulley. and also cam seal, seal is made of TPFE, how to avoid damage the seal, i heard it is very fragile, have you video how to put seal in and pulley on camshaft and in seal too?
I have a Nissan 1.2. turbo Renault engine, it’s ok when it starts but it rattles on acceleration while warm up to 2500rpm, sounds awful, could it be the same problem with it?
It could well be, it may also be worth checking the turbo for excessive play in the turbine shaft. Usually both those things make a noise when it's parked, if this only does it when the car is under load, accelerating, it may be something else
Hi Matt, very beautifull your videos, my megane works ok when engine start, but sometimes at 1500-2000 rpm make an noice from dephaser pulley. Do you know, the problem is in the valve or in the pulley? Thanks you in advance.
This car had already had a timing belt kit fitted a couple of months earlier, so in this case it didn't get a new belt and water pump again. This was my own car so I was happy to do that. Thanks for watching
My Renault Megane ii 2005 1.6 16v LM Saloon Automatic gearbox is making a weird noise if I move slowly in the traffic or if I turn left or right, oil in the engine is normal. And there is no warning light on in the dashboard. pls need some help mechanics have ripped my wallet off
Hi Gideon, what sort of noise is it, I mean knocking or scraping, if it when you move slowly or left and right it could be from the suspension or driveshafts.
mine does it when it rains for some reason.. can leave it for 6 days ..start up fine but if it rains it'll make that noise the next cold start up.. weird .. if left what will eventually happen please? my 1.6 vvt is still running great for 153k miles (on its second engine tho ) .. basically how long before it dies
Thanks!! You're a good mechanic.
Amazing accent, so Scottish..yet all Canadian!
Thanks very much for the video.
I wish i could fix my Megane.I have the same issue you're covering in this video. Cars just sitting in the garage. It makes the same rattling noise, Oil pressure fault light keeps showing. Any advise, suggestions?
Hi can I ask if not repaired what will happen eventually in your own opinion? My 2011 grand scenic mk3 has been doing this for maybe over a year now. Never knew what it was until I saw your video
also its a 54 plate pre facelift.. all my lights still work but one by one the electrics are going ..no front electric windows..blower only works on number 4 ..no display lights for heaters .
Hi Andy, it sounds like the rheostat is faulty and that could be why it only works on speed four
@@mechanicmatt871 how do i fix this? is it something i can do myself? with no front windows working also the AC has never worked since ive had it ..im gonna sweat to death come june
Hi Andy, your front windows not working could be down to a faulty module that is on the window motor, I have fit eBay relay replacements to fix this before. There is also a chance of a broken wire at the A pillar where the door hinges are. If you remove the door trim and check for power, ground and signal at the module. You could take the module off the motor and power up the motor with jumper wires (power probe) and see if the motor works.
Your ac is possibly not working due to low pressure in the system and needs the pressure checking or scan the car for faults in the HVAC.
Hi,i didnt drive my car for few days,its Scenic 3 1.6 VVT,after i tried to start it sounded like tractor and shut off,it didnt happen again,after that it starts and drives fine,could it be solenoid not pumping oil properly,maybe it should be cleaned,or pulley is dying? How do you diagnose this problem
@@slavennikolic620 intermittents are hard to diagnose, the cam pulley should lock into place with no oil pressure, when it starts the oil pressure will take it's lock off. This wouldn't be a faulty solenoid it would be a faulty pulley itself, an oil change with an oil flush may help
My rattle lasts about 15 seconds.
Question is if it should go along revs or it is own frequency of actuator duty cycle ?
God bless you, thank you for your explanation, mine does the same noise but only when cold.
For me also!
Most of the time a temporary rattle is the vvt solenoid not pumping the oil correctly in the dephaser and dephaser get damaged over time because of the solenoid , either replace or clean solenoid with alcohol.
Thanks for your comment Jack
Very food thankx🎉🎉
Meh, the dephaser pulley is just made from something soft unlike say a car's valvetrain... It is just a wear item really. Wears the worse you change oils. But it is so easy an cheap to swap that just use cheap oils and don't change the oils so often 😂
Mine is doing this too, going to try oil flush and change first...not been done for ages. Also, love your accent mate, heard the Scots in it then seen your flag! :)
Thanks, definitely worth trying that first. Thanks for watching
Hi Matt, thank you for your clear informative videos 😊
I have a scenic 2006 1.6 with 120k km on it , the idle is not stable after 10 seconds from starting regardless if it warm or cold and the problem stays after driving . As per obd tool :
- rpm plays from 700- 900 (not stable)
- ignition time advance for #1 cylinder is also playing from 2 degrees to even 20 degrees!
- short term fuel trim is with minus .
- no fault codes
I noticed also that when I press gas pedal slowly during idle it seems that it would die or stall (rpm is going down) ! But if I press faster the rpm increases normally.
the car drives normal without any issues.
No fault codes , I checked camshaft valve, sensors, etc … no success!
Ordered new coils , sparks , crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor to try it and still waiting my shipment.
I am lost in nowhere, maybe you have an idea ?
Greetings from Austria 🇦🇹
Well, i have the same engine Megane mk2 2004, the problems you are talking about may be an electrical issue from the brain. You should check the main fusebox and the main computer if it got any water in it (may have in the past). They are usually located left side right above the tire in the engine bay.
@@yido5000 h the thank you for your advice, I have already solved the issue, the timing belt was one teeth forwarded , it took ages till I found it !! and I reinstall it correctly. Problem solved
- Thanks very much for the video.
- Renault megane 2,the car starts but no idle.
- I have some gum inside the dephaser like plastic,can be that this is part of the pully itself from inside ? ..
- Sorry my bad english.
Thanks for watching, I don't what is causing the gum build up in your dephasor I didn't see anything like that when I striped mine down
Hey Matt! Great Video, perfectly explained the problem. Did you get rid of the rattling noise completely?
Thanks for your answer!
Yes, the loud rattle/knock on start up, would make anyone walking near to the car look at it with concern it would break. That noise went away. I was left with a quieter ticking from the hydraulic tappets, but that was fine. Thanks for watching. Have a nice day.
Thanks for the great vid! Is there any chance a damaged dephaser could cause burning oil? If not, what other issues could it cause?
Over heating maybe check your coolant and motor fan
Hi, I have a Renault Mégane dynamique 1.6 2006, that makes the same rattle noise, but when I rev it up slightly it goes away, it doesn't always happen but is happening more n more, will this be the phaser pulley or the starter motor, any help be greatly appreciated
Its the dephaser solenoid i Haven same issue
Mat attempting timing put dephaser out of line with timing locking tool. Are the two round holds on the dephraser pulley where you put the timing tool into. Also inlet cam seems more springee than outlet cam is this normal.
Yes the two holes in the dephasor pulley are where I put the locking tool. I seem to remember the inlet wanting to spring round out of alignment until I locked up the timing. It has been a while since I did this job so I'm sorry I can't be more help. Thanks for watching
Hi sir!
I have the same problem in the morning, can I wash in side of pulley with brake cleaner?
Yes that will be fine, thanks for watching
My mk1 megane is making tapping noise around 2000rpm when engine is warm, can't figure out what is it. Sounds kinda like smashing elevator call button with metal rod if that makes any sense. Also when starting sometimes it makes loud CLICK noise and I suspect it's related to that knocking. As far as I know mk1 doesn't have VVT? I also checked crank pulley, rubber vulcanization had some cracking and pieces missing but pulley had no wobble when I loosened belt and tried it by hand so it doesn't seem to be the problem. I wonder if old aux belt tensioner could make such noise.
It is possible that it is the tensioner. Some times I activate the valve timing solenoid with the car running and listen for a change in the knocking sound to see if it is related to the dephasor pulley.
I just noticed your comment and that it was made a year ago. Sorry for not getting back to you sooner.
It may be the tensioner or sticking hydraulic lifters in the head.
@@mechanicmatt871 Oh thanks for replying. Yeah car still runs with the same noises and I decided to just live with it. Replacing crank+tensioner pulleys didn't solve it so it must come deeper from the engine and that means "expensive" so I'll just drive until it explodes, hah.
I have 2008 megane done about 70000 miles. Recently had full oil/filter change plus cam belt and water pump change.have done some 1000 miles since and the garage have said that the 'knocking noise' is the dephaser. would the work mentioned before have any relevance to this problem ? they have quoted me gbp 220 for one from renault although I see yours came from ebay and I have found others. Are the after market parts ok ? great video just watched for third time !
I found the new eBay part didn't last long so I bought a second hand Renault part from eBay that worked fine. Thanks for watching
Hi Matt ! When you take off the Diphaser cover what kind of bolt holding the Diphaser to the camshaft,? is it a special bolt needing a special tool?
I think it had a T50 on the cap in the centre of the dephaser and it had a hex bolt behind that, I can't remember the size, I think it was 16mm. I got the torque settings from a Haynes manual. Thanks for watching, have a nice day
I’ve had a 1.6 vet for 2 years. It has always made this noise from cold but no other issues. For the MOT this year I did an oil change and since then I haven’t had this noise happening. Could it be that the oil was just too dirty for it to operate properly ?
It could well be that, thanks for watching. Matt
How long does a new camshaft sprocket last before it makes this noise again. Reason i ask is renault dealer sells a modified version but its super expensive.
Hi I don't know, I didn't keep the car long enough to answer that, thanks for watching
@@mechanicmatt871 so the answer to my question is 1 year lol I'm back k with the dreaded rattle. I'm thinking I could weld the pull in the locked position? I know I won't have full performance
Hi, Matt! I have question. How did you rotate the engine to put it in right position before you set in place the special tools?
Hi, it has been a while so I'm not sure if I turned the bottom pulley bolt to rotate, or if I turned it by the cam shaft pulley bolt ( although that's not recommended )
Thanks for watching
Hi Matt. Thank you for the video, I have a question if you don't mind? My 1.6 VVT is running slightly off when idle, it starts fine, no cutting out but I have the constant check emmisions and engine warning lights, the dephaser pulley doesn't appear to make a noise but my local garage advised it "might" be the pulley or the camshaft sensor. I've changed the coils, plugs and camshaft sensor and it's running slightly better but still a little lumpy. Can you advise at all? Many thanks.
Hi James, did you local garage scan the car for fault codes to see why the check engine light is on? If the car is only lumpy at idle, it may have an intake vacuum leak, if you have a scan tool with live data you could look at the fuel trim LTFT and STFT and see if the fuel trim improves ( goes closer to zero) when you slightly raise the engine speed, and see if the fuel trim goes higher at idle.
See if you can get a fault code from the car first.
Thanks for watching.
Might be lambda sensor 1 on way out.
Hi Matt ! I check my dephaser , it has wear groove like yours , what about if I smooth it up with fine sand paper and assemble back ? It could be risky! ? Cause a new one cost £200 and if I want it cheap on Ebay I had to get it from Poland or Lithuania, but would I trust them? Is beginning to be a bit of a nightmare!
Hi you could try that and see. if it doesn't help, at least you can use the car while you wait on the new part. Are the eBay pulleys that you are looking at genuine Renault?
@@mechanicmatt871 Hi Matt . Just find one pulley on Ebay fit my car for £75 original Renault brand new from Wakefield, finger cross! Bargain! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
does this rattle occur on all start ups even when hot ?
I can't remember now. I think it was there on hot start ups too
hey Matt, i'm thinking to lock my dephaser pulley to the lock position while i'm waiting for new part.my plunger is worn and doesn't lock anymore.it takes time to start as the timing is always out. what do you think ?
That makes sense if it's not locking, how are you thinking of locking the plunger, would it help you to just unplug the actuator on top of the cam cover while you are waiting on the new part. Thanks for watching
@@mechanicmatt871 actuator you mean the solenoid ? yes i will unplug, but i think still the pulley will be out timing although is not getting any oil pressure.i will lock by either removing the plunger and put pin or put spacers on the gaps.
Yes I do mean the solenoid, I had bother with one starting and running, I unplugged the solenoids to stop oil pressure getting into the dephaser pulley to stop the pin moving and it ran better.
This was just a suggestion that may of helped until you get your new pulley.
Although with your pin not holding it won't make any difference.
I suppose in this case, you locking the pulley up with a pin will have the same effect I had by unplugging, it obviously brings on the engine light but it ran a little better.
@@mechanicmatt871 I have unplugged my solenoid to stop it stalling and as you found it has ran better with no loss in power, a unexpected bonus was it went from 34.5mpg to 39.1 mpg.
hi, did you change camshaft seal when you change pulley?
Yes I did I have a video with a different car and I show how I changed that. Here is a link to the video.
ruclips.net/video/X4V_BheNUGc/видео.html
Thanks for watching
@@mechanicmatt871 thanks. i have leak on pulley itself...i dont know how it happens? maybe some seal on pulley is leaking oil, i have to change the pulley. and also cam seal, seal is made of TPFE, how to avoid damage the seal, i heard it is very fragile, have you video how to put seal in and pulley on camshaft and in seal too?
I have a Nissan 1.2. turbo Renault engine, it’s ok when it starts but it rattles on acceleration while warm up to 2500rpm, sounds awful, could it be the same problem with it?
It could well be, it may also be worth checking the turbo for excessive play in the turbine shaft.
Usually both those things make a noise when it's parked, if this only does it when the car is under load, accelerating, it may be something else
only happens while accelerating and reving it a little, I'll take the air intake off the turbo to see if theres any play
Well explained
Thanks for watching
Hi Matt, very beautifull your videos, my megane works ok when engine start, but sometimes at 1500-2000 rpm make an noice from dephaser pulley. Do you know, the problem is in the valve or in the pulley? Thanks you in advance.
That sort of noise is the pulley itself, although usually it's on start up and then goes away. Thanks for watching
Hi did you put replace the phaser and did the slight rattle/via ration at 1500-2000 rpm go away ?
@@TwIn603 Finally my problem was the valve. The symptoms was only a rattle noice sometimes at 1500rpm. Now works perfectly
@@charleskont3569 what valve the intake/outage valves or solenoid valve ?
@@TwIn603 solenoid valve
Did you change the cam belt at the same time??
This car had already had a timing belt kit fitted a couple of months earlier, so in this case it didn't get a new belt and water pump again. This was my own car so I was happy to do that. Thanks for watching
my renault modus does that and it shows up check gear box sign
I'm not sure what the gear box sign means, thanks for watching
My Renault Megane ii 2005 1.6 16v LM Saloon Automatic gearbox is making a weird noise if I move slowly in the traffic or if I turn left or right, oil in the engine is normal. And there is no warning light on in the dashboard. pls need some help mechanics have ripped my wallet off
Hi Gideon, what sort of noise is it, I mean knocking or scraping, if it when you move slowly or left and right it could be from the suspension or driveshafts.
@@mechanicmatt871 it sounds like germing two pans together, like there is no oil in the engine
Oh that could be the same as the noise on this Renault. Is it from the same place on the engine,
@@mechanicmatt871 it's from the wheel side
@@mechanicmatt871 and I have diagnose the engine but there is no fault code from the engine
mine does it when it rains for some reason.. can leave it for 6 days ..start up fine but if it rains it'll make that noise the next cold start up.. weird .. if left what will eventually happen please? my 1.6 vvt is still running great for 153k miles (on its second engine tho ) .. basically how long before it dies
I can't say how long it's gonna last, I changed mine when it rattled every time I started the car with a cold engine, thanks for watching.
What kind of accent is this?
Mixed up from traveling. Thanks for watching
Nothing but trouble Renaults