Very well presented dissertation on the installation of the dust collection system. No hemming and hawing and ummm, and ahh's, just spit it out and get on with it. A very clean and noteworthy build. The drain piping is a great money and time saver and the minimal use of blocky plywood to build the various interfaces and mounts is much appreciated for its' sine qua non quality. If I were going to make this video I would make the title "Dust Collection Ducting That's INEXPENSIVE and Easy". There i NOTHING cheap about what or how you did this project.
Thanks for all the useful info! I'm setting up shop over the next month, so watching a lot of dust collection videos. This is among the best. I especially like the floor sweep, almost as much as I like the t-shirt. The heat fitted joints is brilliant!
Ted. Thanks for the kudos. Haven’t found anyone that has done dust collection with heat shrink fittings. I have heard of many shops with successful results. 1 hear later and would absolutely do it the same again.
Excellent video, and perfect timing! i was just doing some research on that piping the last couple weeks, after noticing both the pricing, and the compatible sizing. i hesitated, though, and did some research, because i had never heard of anyone else using it for dust collection... It made me wonder if there was some reason that wasn't obvious to me. This video confirms it to me, and in a way that was so far above the typical low quality standard that fills RUclips, that i am compelled to subscribe! Thank you!
First time viewer and new subscriber. Forgive me if 100 other people have already asked this, but what about grounding the ductwork? I was under the impression that there was a tremendous danger of static electricity sawdust explosions in these systems. Can you address, please?
I love how you explained everything step by step! I have a 2hp Harbor freight dust collector that advertises 1500 CFM ( which I doubt) and Super Dust Deputy I haven't installed yet. I am in the process of installing my dust collection system and have a couple of questions. 1) With the filter in the other room do you find that you pull all your conditioned air out of your workshop almost as if venting to the outside? 2) What CFM does your Jet advertise? I have went back and forth with venting outside, installing the dust collector motor in the attic, making it fixed with ducting or keeping mobile etc.....
Your thin wall DMV ducting is absolutely the best I've seen. I just did it to my workshop, all in one afternoon. The best Labor Day ever, thanks to your great tips. I cannot thank you enough!
This gets a 10 star rating! Using the HD 4" DWV is so much cheaper than flex pipe and no need for expensive connecting clamps. I used a heat gun and just needed to practice to figure out how much heat to apply until the connections went in almost effortlessly.
Thank you for a very good, informative video that's going to hopefully save me a whole lot of money on duct work... My only question. Does that collector move enough air to pull the bigger stuff up into the ceiling and over to the cyclone? I've only worked with my shop vac system, so I don't have any experience with the bigger systems yet, but I know my little shop vac system would laugh at me if I tried that lol... Again thank you for the video. New subscriber
Great video! I like the dust collector being in the other room and the idea of raising it up to give storage space below it. Also, I hadn't thought of the quick disconnect on the table saw for the floor sweep. I'll be adding that to my plans for my system. Thanks for posting this.
I am too thinking of putting my dust collector (and compressor) in a small corner room that came with the barn of recently moved into house. I was thinking it would cut down on the noise but also maybe more importantly it would block the dust that makes it past my current bag style filter since the room will be both insulated for sound and well sealed.
I took all of your suggestions and made a great dust collection system. The DWV piping was exactly as you said - cheap and easy! I used a Harbor Freight heat gun to heat the pipe. I also bought all of accessories from Woodcraft and Home Depot. You saved me a lot of time and money. Thank you so very much!!!
Just found this video. By far the best one on You Tube on setting up a system. Your usage of DWV piping is brilliant. I will be using lots of your ideas in my new system. Keep up the good work..!
Loved this video but i have to ask - have you checked the draw before and after the location of the "T"? I feel like that's the weakest point in an otherwise great system
guitarchitectural thanks for the feedback. I’m planning an update video on the system along with a few lessons learned. I totally agree with you about the T - they should definitely be avoided at all costs! I had to use it in order to travel up and down for my various runs. There wasn’t much way around it. My toughest collection point is at my table saw. I use that for my planer and jointer and have had no collection issues. I’ll take some CFM measurements in the future. Cheers!
I figured I would try your heat shriking approach to friction fitting the DWV to the ABS plastics. Not all ABS dust collection 4" pieces are actually 4", or even uniform. In order to get enough shrink on my, whatever brand it was that Woodcraft sells, I had to use a band clamp to pull the softened DWV PVC in a bit to get it to go, but once it is cooled off, just take the clamp off and it is a good, tight friction fit. Should be leak free! I am moving mine around to get the runs straighter / less flex hose used, so this will come in REAL handy. Thanks!
hi my name is adam davenport I am from raleigh North Carolina and I have a question for you my wife and I live in a one bedroom apartment and our laundry room always has trouble with the dryer vent getting clogged up and I was just wondering if you could use a dust collection system for a laundry dryer have a great weekend
Great video. Question sir...at 3:59 you have a call out about not buying PVC fittings. Other than price and weight to deal with, what is wrong with using PVC fittings? Thanks, Brad
I would be interested to see what the airflow readings are at those tool connections. I would also be taking some readings of airborne particulates in that shop.
This is great, I was prepping for 26 gauge 4 inch galvanized duct, saw this episode and took it all back an exchanged it. And Wood craft has all thier fittings on sale this month. How the static build up?
No. Grounding is a waste of time in my opinion. There are plenty of references online to its ineffectiveness. In our humid climate in Oregon there isn’t a bad level of static. It’s a minor issue. Maybe drier climates can make a claim to the concern. I’ve built 3 dust collection systems and none of them have had a problem with plastic pipe.
There are minimal issues with static. I am shooting a follow up video in the next few weeks to address since it’s one of the most widely raised concerns. My system has been in place for a year and has no issues with static.
Awesome video!!! I agree with the comment below, I’m setting up a new shop new shop and have been watching lots of videos…this is by far the best for dust collection!! Thank you!! Question…no issues with the draw straight up from the planners large chips?
Thanks for reply I'm in Titusville Fl. finally found it but it's a hole different brand and look, but price about the same. once again thanks and keep the videos coming.
This is a terrific tip! Thanks! I’ve been installing an Oneida Super Cell Turbo and was set to spend a small fortune on the special vacuum-rated ducts Oneida says you need. Decided to give this a try and picked some of this up at Lowe’s. Was quick and easy to install, works great, and saved me about $1,000.
Wow that was a very professional presentation and you have got to be one of the most organised fellas I have ever seen. Shop is immaculate; Subscribed I need to learn from you. Thanks.
Hi, great video. You and I almost think alike. I have seen a lot of dust collection system videos and I have not seen any that uses the same drain pipe as I did till today. I am on a budget and cannot afford what woodworkers are using this days. For a long time I have a ridgid 6.5 amp vacuum that I been using and it works great. But dust still continue to fly all over my garage. I went to my home depot and they don’t even carry what youtubers are using. I went online and saw what they are charging for this kind of pipes. Its discouraging to upgrade when it costs this much. I went to Home Depot and saw the drain pipe and why not right? Will do same job, its just good as the expensive ones. And a lot easier to adapt to any universal dust collection fittings with only use of a torch or even a heat gun. When I saw your trash can I was happy because I used the same exact trash can for $20.00 My neighbor got the same thin metal material for almost $400.00 because he said it was the right product for “dust collection”. Nope this trash can works better for a lot cheaper. The only thing I did not think of was installing wheels, thank you for that. I spend a lot of time at Rockler every time i go there, and its very hard to piece together a collection system that easily connects with my harbor freight 2hp without buying all kinds of adapters just to fit 3 different brands of connectors. I’ll be sure to follow you and maybe I can get some more ideas, that i have not think about it yet. Thank you
Very nice setup. I’m doing a similar setup with my shop. I have a question and want to get your advice. I planing on running the jet cyclone 1.5 hp. Which diameter do think is best. I was going to do 6” if I can away with 4” that wouldn’t be better. Wanted to get your opinion ?
6" will move more air, so go with it if you can, though most large tools have a 4" port, so you can branch off to the tools with 4". Some people DIY a 6" port onto their tools to keep it all 6".
Nice video, good job. It actually does make sense for the inlet to the fan to have a bigger diameter than the outlet. That's because the fan generates much greater pressure on the outlet side than suction on the inlet side. So, going from two 4" wye inlets (which is about equal cross sectional area to a single 6" inlet) gives more cross sectional area than the 5" line that you installed. Now, it may not make a difference in your case, since you opted for 4" DWV pipe all around. I'm in the process of doing dust collection for my shop with an old oneida 1.5 hp fan/cyclone and I opted to use 6" DWV all around the shop and then using similar cross section adaptors at the tool. I am still working on this, so your video was really helpful, thanks!
@@DIYWoodGuy I can't figure out why you went from a 6" opening to 5" tubing then back up to 6" for the XL Dust Deputy. Wondering if the 5" Deputy would have been cheaper or staying at 6" tubing to the 6" Deputy would have better performance. I ask because I am sorting out a similar system and trying to get the best performance out of my new Jet DC-1200
Hi, I’m really interested in your split room system I too would like to do this with my setup mainly to cut down the noise! Is it possible to have a copy of the sketch up drawing for a reference? Have you done any tests for the flow measurements for efficiency? And did you send the warm air from the collector back into the shop? Thank you for an excellent video! Blessings, Andy London England.
Hi Andy. It sounds like you’re on a great path to improving your dust collection. I’m still working to get things going with my website and will offer sketch up plans for sale in the future. Sorry I don’t have anything set up now. I will be doing an upcoming video to measure efficiency. Yes, I do have a return for warm air but this is because my shop is in a commercial space. I have installed large 12 inch pipe l collection systems and it definitely makes a difference there for heat. It will make sense to consider this for a small shop too. I will be doing some upcoming videos on system efficiency and measuring key points. Cheers!
The pipe you’re using isn’t “drain-waste-vent”, it’s triple wall pipe and it’s used for underground rainwater drains. The ribbed inner wall would not allow proper drainage of waste material as it would slow the material which is moved solely by gravity. While cheaper that pipe also has the same affect on air flow as it’s not smooth, those ribs still create drag or friction on the air as well as cause any larger material to tumble along the piping instead of staying suspended in the air. It may “work” but it works better with the proper piping. In many parts of the country schedule 20 isn’t available, only schedule 40, however one might be able to find ABS pipe which is the same diameter but black, the same material as commercially available black plastic dust collector fittings. Both ABS and PVC piping can be heated to make an airtight seal with the fittings, if one doesn’t use the appropriate plumbing fittings, but caution MUST be used when heating PVC, ABS, or Triple Wall drain pipe as heated plastics give off toxic gases. People need to understand this and research how to do this safely, or just pony up a bit more money and buy the plumbing fittings, or stick with actual dust collection pipe. Toxic fumes from heated or burning plastic are just as dangerous, if not more so, than the sawdust you’re collecting. Edit: having the DC “on” and closing all the blast gates is also a bad idea, it creates way too much back pressure on the motor. A better idea is to open the second gate, then close the first gate leaving the DC able to “breathe”. #protip Anyway, food for thought. Stay safe. ✌🏼
Closing the blast gates unload the motor. Conversely having the inlet to the impeller wide open and say the bags removed could dangerously overload the motor.
Do you have to manually turn on/off the dust collector everytime you use a tool? I'd prefer the ability to have it automatically start/stop after the tool starts/stops. Great informative video, thanks, subbed!
Yes though in practice I just leave the system running and switch to other tools by opening and closing gates manually. There are systems that automatically start the collector and open the gate when the tool is turned on. If I had unlimited funds this would be the way to go. The premise of this video is to show an inexpensive way to solve the problem. Cheers!
Great video! I'm in the process of building something similar in my shop and had a question about reductions from 4" to 2½". With a 2 hp vacuum, is it best to maintain 4" flex hose all the way to the tool from the blast gate or reduce to 2½" at the blast gate to increase air speed? Most of my tools have 2½" dust ports.
What is the benefit of having the cyclone in addition to the dust collector? Why not just have one bag to empty out? Looking at setting up piping because I’m new and already tired of rerouting vacuum hoses around. Are the bigger dust collection systems quieter than shop vacs? I’d love something a little less noisy when I’m between cuts.
I had this system quoted for metal ducting at $3500. If you want the least expensive option just roll the collector around to your tools. I have less than $500 into the system (minus the collector). Expense is a relative term.
Dual port pulls out easily. You may have to tap it with your palm back and forth to get it off. The 6-5 reducer slides into the 6" port. I had to slightly bend mine to get it into place. Seal with duct tape if you find that it leaks.
Very helpful video for someone like myself who knows very little about dust collection. I do have a question that I hope you can answer. When you reduce your pipe size near the machinery, what size is best to reduce to? I have the same DC that you have here so I'm following your method closely.
Great video very helpful. I was shopping for a cyclone and my salesperson told me not to use PVC pipes because of static issues. This was confirmed by some youtube videos. How did you deal with static grounding ?
That’s one of my most common questions with the system and video. I have been running this in my shop for over a year now. Static is not any measurable problem. I lecture regularly at OSHA conferences and there has never been a single incident of a home shop explosion. The bigger risk is getting shocked and reacting to a tool. The only tall that produces any measurable level of static is the horizontal drum sander. I really don’t think you’re going to have any problem with static. If you do, it is easy to ground your flex pipe to each individual tool by taking the wire on the pipe and screwing it to a metal part of the tool body. Cheers.
@@DIYWoodGuy Try sticky backed copper tape if you encounter a problem - the stuff that's used to restore old slot car track and in gardening. it's cheap (from the auction sites) and easy to apply / reapply. If you are using plastic pipe clips you can also run it over these and to the bracket screws to earth the whole system.
Found this doing research as I'm adding a CNC and trying to figure out how to run ducting to the top of my machine so that something flexible can follow the spindle as it moves around. I long ago discovered the problem that just running flexible hose causes - significant drop in air flow at the tool. Your explanation is good. My CNC is a Laguna IQ Pro, but Axiom CNC has a nice (expensive!) vertical metal pipe that bolts to their CNCs. I bet I can construct something out of this DWV piping with maybe a wood frame to hold it in place that will do the same thing. I'm in So Cal, and I've found static IS an issue here on occasion. I installed a new drum sander recently and it startled me once with a significant zap... I would imagine a CNC, that can run for extended lengths of time, would also be a significant source of static. Static and electronics don't mix well, either... Gonna run some grounding wires.
I run a CNC quite a bit and I can tell you from experience that static can cause the machine to malfunction and reset and is a huge concern. Woodcraft sells a new blue anti static hose that is similar to Festool’s technology on hoses. Ground this back to your machine bed and make sure that your machine bed is grounded as well.
@@DIYWoodGuy I am a Festool guy, and appreciate their anti-static hoses... I wasn't aware that Woodcraft had a 4" anti-static hose. My CNC comes Monday, so I'm quickly sorting out these thorny details. Got the table built. DC is next.
Hello, so I loved your video. I bought the pipe, but i am having an issue finding the wye's and 90's that do not have a bell end on them. I noticed your wye doesn't have a bell on it. Can you tell me which connectors you used please???
Late reply but those fittings look like the Powertec pieces I have been getting from Amazon, as well as flex pipe and clamps, etc. They carry bends, wyes and even a three into one connector. They are sized to be right at 4" o.d., which slips directly into 4" flex hose. Rockler carries most of the same as does Woodcraft (house branded for them), although Amazon usually is a bit cheaper.
Can you bend the pipe instead of using elbows or 45° T connectors? If like to bend it to make one sweeping curve or arch in my ceiling and to avoid connection joints if possible.
Nice set up and a lot of good ideas! I think that you are working with drain tile, not DWV, drain waste and vent which is used for sanitary waste in plumbing work.
Great video, very informative. I do have one question. You pointed out specifically not to use PVC fittings, what fittings do you use? They look like the Woodriver ABS plastic fittings, am I right? If so, I found them to be much more expensive than PVC fittings. Does the cost savings in the pipe really out-weigh the cost savings of the fittings? My assumption is the total price of your system might be higher without crunching the numbers. If this is the case, do you know what other types of fittings can be used with the DWV? Also I didn't notice any grounding. Does this type of system not produce as much static electricity as PVC or metal ducting? Thank you!
Thanks for the reply. PVC fittings are much tighter than the ABS fittings from Woodcraft. This increases resistance. It also requires gluing the joints together which makes the system less First of all for changes. You will be throwing joints away if you decide on system changes and I’ve never had a system that I didn’t want to modify afterwards. The cost of a metal ducting system for my shop would have been $3500. I came in way below this at less than $400. Grounding is a non-issue for me. I have lectured at several OSHA conferences on shop safety, and have had an opportunity to talk with inspectors regarding risks of static. There has never been an explosion In a home shop as a result of dust and static. The bigger concern is getting a small shock and then reacting to it and getting cut. The worst offender in my shop is a drum sander on the tablesaw drop. You can get a decent size spark here, however for me it is not that big of a deal. I have never had a shock on any tool with a blade. Other climates may vary. I would suggest putting in the system and then consider grounding later if you saw it to be a problem. My opinion is that this is entirely over-blown by individuals that don’t know what they’re talking about. I might think different if I lived in a dry climate - it’s not a problem for me.
@@DIYWoodGuy Thanks again for the valuable information. I'm definitely a beginner trying to learn as much as possible before I spend a bunch of money on unnecessary things so I'm glad you replied! I will not worry about the grounding for now. I appreciate you taking the time to inform me and in such a timely matter. I will definitely stay tuned to your channel.
It’s been a while since you posted this, but I wanted to let you know how helpful I found your video! Can you elaborate on the connection logic/parts to your ‘shop vac’/hand held floor sweep attachment please?
Thanks for the video. Roughly how much did just the plumbing and gates cost you? I planned on making a similar system with about the same amount of materials and it would be useful to know what I'm getting into as far as cost and my budget.
awesome shop, great video. things look like they flow real nice in your set up, i'm digging it! i was under the instruction by my vac manual to open the gate before starting the collector, not to stress the motor i guess? i admit i don't always comply, but it did happen recently that the switch on my collector heated and partially melted out of whack, had to replace it. now i'm wondering if stressing the motor might be the culprit that heated the switch? idk..... all i know is i want to go clean my shop more now! hago! (have a good one!)
Great video, one of the best I have seen. I agree with previous comments. I just found your channel and am surprised that you don't have more subscribers.
The DC1100 was designed for a bag type collector. The choice of 4" duct was not a good one since the blower and your cyclone both have 5" ports. This added restriction kills the CFM. As I remember the 12" impeller of the DC1200 is a direct replacement for the 11" DC1100 blower. Check the amp draw on the motor and compare that against what it is now pulling. The motor is not properly loaded. The 12" will give you a well needed increase in CFM. This is a common mod on the very popular HF DC. Turns out a 12" impeller of a Ricon DC fits. To get decent CFM in a central system the minimum size for an impeller is 14". There is no free lunch on DC's
Thanks for the feedback. The DC1100 is a great collector - I’ve had the one you see in the video since 2001. Great ideas with the impeller size, I’ll have to look into that more. I guess as they say “the proof is in the pudding”. I have no concerns over the CFM capacity even at my table saw which has a 13’ vertical raise. There is more than enough static pressure when running one tool at a time and I’ve had no issues with clogs. I wouldn’t change a thing about my system.
Splendid tutorial and description of all parts that make up your system. I just did an online search, and I'm afraid that thin-walled DWV ducting isn't even available here in Canada, at least not from the usual retail outlets -- Home Depot, Home Hardware, et cetera. The closest they come is straight PVC, and if I understand your theme, it's to NOT use PVC. I suppose another question for you is what is the material in your black fittings? ABS?
gussy thanks for the note. I chose THIN WALL DWV after discovering that it heat shrinks to the black abs fittings. I distinguish from pvc because pvc is expensive, and has to be glued ( plan on throwing away any glued fittings if you ever want to change). To my knowledge I’m the only video on RUclips that has discovered the secret of thin wall DWV. You’ll want to source the black fittings through Woodcraft. I realize that they are not in Canada, but try calling a store that is near the boarder like Seattle or the corporate office in West Virginia. Look for a follow on video coming soon with even more tips!
Thank you. Just beginning plans for dust collection very helpful. I noticed the Rikon 14” bandsaw. I need to replace my 10” for resawing wood blanks and looking at 14” models. Can you provide any suggestions and your thoughts on the Rikon 10-324 or 10-326. Thanks.
Spring for a 14 inch bandsaw. They are pretty much the de facto standard in most American workshops this specific saw also has the option for an out on module that makes a variable speed which means you can do metal. 14 inch deluxe all the way. 10 inch bandsaw’s will be very limited - but if you only intend to use it on small stuff then it will probably be fine. Second to a table saw the bandsaw is one of the most usable tools in your shop. Cheers!
Great looking system! I disagree with your take on the wall mounted switch. I love my remote for my DC. I've never misplaced it in 10 years. When I'm working in the shop, it's in my pocket or apron. I did manage to suck it into my DC while cleaning my table saw once. LOL.
LOL. I’m not so good at not misplacing things. If you put in an in-line cyclone you won’t have to worry about destroying the remote with the impeller! Yikes!
Any update on the dust collection? I just bought all my parts (minus the ducting) and keep reading about needing to run 5” to the SDD because there’s too much loss with the 4”. It quadruples the price though!
Planning a 1 year review with calculated cam at different ports. I’m very happy with my system and have Mae minimal changes over the last year. Would definitely do again. My farthest port has more than enough capabilities. I think folks get a little too overblown with trying to make everything perfect. Thanks for reaching out.
Great video and always happy to sub another woodworker. I know how hard it is to get subs as I recently started my own channel too. I'm going to pay close attention to a number of these tips as I build out my own shop.
Enjoyed your video. Your shop looks great! I am curious why you decided to go with a T instead of a wye right at the cyclone. Do you notice any loss in suction. I am trying to plan my dust collection piping as we speak. I want to make it as efficient as possible.
Great question. Avoid Tees whenever possible. I had to turn both directions and in my specific application a Tee was the only way to do that. Every joint, foot of pipe, and feature of the dust collection system causes a reduction in performance - key is to keep minimal components and short runs.
Nice video. One thing I have been told is that before turning on your dust collector you should first open the blast gate to the tool you plan on using. Now, I have not experienced it myself maybe because my DC is only 2hp but, I have heard and seen where a line or cyclone container can collapse under the suction when all of the gates are closed. Maybe it only happens if you have a more powerful collector but I have always made it a habit to open the blast gate first or open the next one I am going to use before closing the previous one if I keep the collector running in-between.
Always good practice to open the gate first, but after you’ve been working in the shop you’ll be bound to forget to do it. It just happens. Don’t use a plastic garbage can. Metal won’t collapse.
At 5:33 your showing a short section of vacuum pipe dangling near the floor of your table saw. What is this used for. I'm thinking for the dust coming down from the cabinet. Very good video well explained. Thanks!
This is for the floor sweep under my workbench. The bench is removed for clarity. I have a video on my channel that shows the details of how I made this.
I can’t believe you don’t have over 1 million hits on this video. By far the best dust collection duck work video I’ve seen yet.
Best video I've seen yet.
Very well presented dissertation on the installation of the dust collection system. No hemming and hawing and ummm, and ahh's, just spit it out and get on with it. A very clean and noteworthy build. The drain piping is a great money and time saver and the minimal use of blocky plywood to build the various interfaces and mounts is much appreciated for its' sine qua non quality. If I were going to make this video I would make the title "Dust Collection Ducting That's INEXPENSIVE and Easy". There i NOTHING cheap about what or how you did this project.
Thanks for the kudos!
Good video.... and thank you for NO DAM music...... I will check out the thin wall piping and heat fitting to the plastic parts.Thks!
Thanks for all the useful info! I'm setting up shop over the next month, so watching a lot of dust collection videos. This is among the best. I especially like the floor sweep, almost as much as I like the t-shirt. The heat fitted joints is brilliant!
Ted. Thanks for the kudos. Haven’t found anyone that has done dust collection with heat shrink fittings. I have heard of many shops with successful results. 1 hear later and would absolutely do it the same again.
Excellent video, and perfect timing! i was just doing some research on that piping the last couple weeks, after noticing both the pricing, and the compatible sizing. i hesitated, though, and did some research, because i had never heard of anyone else using it for dust collection... It made me wonder if there was some reason that wasn't obvious to me. This video confirms it to me, and in a way that was so far above the typical low quality standard that fills RUclips, that i am compelled to subscribe! Thank you!
Thanks for the kudos. I’m glad you appreciate the video. Will produce many more.
First time viewer and new subscriber. Forgive me if 100 other people have already asked this, but what about grounding the ductwork? I was under the impression that there was a tremendous danger of static electricity sawdust explosions in these systems. Can you address, please?
I LOVE your setup!!!
Hi Joe-two quick questions…any worries about static build up in your ducts and also, where did you get that t-shirt? LOVE it!
I love how you explained everything step by step! I have a 2hp Harbor freight dust collector that advertises 1500 CFM ( which I doubt) and Super Dust Deputy I haven't installed yet. I am in the process of installing my dust collection system and have a couple of questions. 1) With the filter in the other room do you find that you pull all your conditioned air out of your workshop almost as if venting to the outside? 2) What CFM does your Jet advertise? I have went back and forth with venting outside, installing the dust collector motor in the attic, making it fixed with ducting or keeping mobile etc.....
Your thin wall DMV ducting is absolutely the best I've seen. I just did it to my workshop, all in one afternoon. The best Labor Day ever, thanks to your great tips. I cannot thank you enough!
@@ScreamingEagleFTW they have it at Lowe's, Menards, and home Depot. It's a landscaping pvc pipe, white on outside, black inside, with a wavy pattern
Nice production value Joe.
Rasaraja dasa thanks for the kudos! Please share with your buddies to help me grow my channel!
very impressive 👏👏👏
This was a fantastic video. Great ideas and great shop. Thank you.
This gets a 10 star rating! Using the HD 4" DWV is so much cheaper than flex pipe and no need for expensive connecting clamps. I used a heat gun and just needed to practice to figure out how much heat to apply until the connections went in almost effortlessly.
what temp did you use on the heat gun
Do you find that you loose much efficiency with as much flex hose, as well as the number of joints (including one T joint)?
Where can I find fhe white dwv pipe at? I cant find it amywhere.
Thank you for a very good, informative video that's going to hopefully save me a whole lot of money on duct work... My only question. Does that collector move enough air to pull the bigger stuff up into the ceiling and over to the cyclone? I've only worked with my shop vac system, so I don't have any experience with the bigger systems yet, but I know my little shop vac system would laugh at me if I tried that lol... Again thank you for the video. New subscriber
Sweet
What about grounding the pipe and gates for static electricity?
How much was your total cost in plumbing alone? (just pipes, fittings, & blast gates)
Your dust collection system tutorial is one of the very best in the youtube platform, so thanks for sharing your experience with others!!
Great video! I like the dust collector being in the other room and the idea of raising it up to give storage space below it. Also, I hadn't thought of the quick disconnect on the table saw for the floor sweep. I'll be adding that to my plans for my system. Thanks for posting this.
Would love to see pictures of your install.
I am too thinking of putting my dust collector (and compressor) in a small corner room that came with the barn of recently moved into house. I was thinking it would cut down on the noise but also maybe more importantly it would block the dust that makes it past my current bag style filter since the room will be both insulated for sound and well sealed.
Where u get the metal gates? The ones on rockler are $44 each.
Would a heat gun work in place of a propane torch?
I took all of your suggestions and made a great dust collection system. The DWV piping was exactly as you said - cheap and easy! I used a Harbor Freight heat gun to heat the pipe. I also bought all of accessories from Woodcraft and Home Depot. You saved me a lot of time and money. Thank you so very much!!!
Just found this video. By far the best one on You Tube on setting up a system. Your usage of DWV piping is brilliant. I will be using lots of your ideas in my new system. Keep up the good work..!
Loved this video but i have to ask - have you checked the draw before and after the location of the "T"? I feel like that's the weakest point in an otherwise great system
guitarchitectural thanks for the feedback. I’m planning an update video on the system along with a few lessons learned. I totally agree with you about the T - they should definitely be avoided at all costs! I had to use it in order to travel up and down for my various runs. There wasn’t much way around it. My toughest collection point is at my table saw. I use that for my planer and jointer and have had no collection issues. I’ll take some CFM measurements in the future. Cheers!
I figured I would try your heat shriking approach to friction fitting the DWV to the ABS plastics. Not all ABS dust collection 4" pieces are actually 4", or even uniform. In order to get enough shrink on my, whatever brand it was that Woodcraft sells, I had to use a band clamp to pull the softened DWV PVC in a bit to get it to go, but once it is cooled off, just take the clamp off and it is a good, tight friction fit. Should be leak free! I am moving mine around to get the runs straighter / less flex hose used, so this will come in REAL handy. Thanks!
hi my name is adam davenport I am from raleigh North Carolina and I have a question for you my wife and I live in a one bedroom apartment and our laundry room always has trouble with the dryer vent getting clogged up and I was just wondering if you could use a dust collection system for a laundry dryer have a great weekend
I can’t find why people go from a 6” opening at the impeller down to 5” pipe and the back up to a 5”-6” adapter at the dust deputy? Please help.
Love the halo at 3.40
LOL - I never noticed that! Completely unintentional. I need to watch my background. 😂
While all the info and details are still very solid the 4" pipe has doubled in price 😲
Any regrets on 4” instead of 6”? I’m debating which one to use now.
The initial 5” should be hard piped.
WOW! Excellent editing!! Also great system! SUBSCRIBED!
Thanks bud. Hope you enjoy!
Great video. Question sir...at 3:59 you have a call out about not buying PVC fittings. Other than price and weight to deal with, what is wrong with using PVC fittings? Thanks, Brad
They run a tighter radius and result in loss of cubic feet per minute of airflow. We’re trying to preserve this as much as possible.
I would be interested to see what the airflow readings are at those tool connections. I would also be taking some readings of airborne particulates in that shop.
Can the motor be mounted on top of the cyclone then vented directly to the outside?
This is great, I was prepping for 26 gauge 4 inch galvanized duct, saw this episode and took it all back an exchanged it. And Wood craft has all thier fittings on sale this month. How the static build up?
Static has been just fine. I get the most off of a drum sander hooked up to the table saw port but it is more than reasonable.
@@DIYWoodGuy do you have it grounded?
No. Grounding is a waste of time in my opinion. There are plenty of references online to its ineffectiveness. In our humid climate in Oregon there isn’t a bad level of static. It’s a minor issue. Maybe drier climates can make a claim to the concern. I’ve built 3 dust collection systems and none of them have had a problem with plastic pipe.
@@DIYWoodGuy thank you
With the plastic pipe, I would be concerned about static discharge.
There are minimal issues with static. I am shooting a follow up video in the next few weeks to address since it’s one of the most widely raised concerns. My system has been in place for a year and has no issues with static.
Awesome video!!! I agree with the comment below, I’m setting up a new shop new shop and have been watching lots of videos…this is by far the best for dust collection!! Thank you!!
Question…no issues with the draw straight up from the planners large chips?
Thanks for reply I'm in Titusville Fl. finally found it but it's a hole different brand and look, but price about the same. once again thanks and keep the videos coming.
This is a terrific tip! Thanks! I’ve been installing an Oneida Super Cell Turbo and was set to spend a small fortune on the special vacuum-rated ducts Oneida says you need. Decided to give this a try and picked some of this up at Lowe’s. Was quick and easy to install, works great, and saved me about $1,000.
Wow that was a very professional presentation and you have got to be one of the most organised fellas I have ever seen. Shop is immaculate; Subscribed I need to learn from you. Thanks.
Thanks for the kudos! Hope you can use the information in the video.
Hi, great video. You and I almost think alike. I have seen a lot of dust collection system videos and I have not seen any that uses the same drain pipe as I did till today. I am on a budget and cannot afford what woodworkers are using this days. For a long time I have a ridgid 6.5 amp vacuum that I been using and it works great. But dust still continue to fly all over my garage. I went to my home depot and they don’t even carry what youtubers are using. I went online and saw what they are charging for this kind of pipes. Its discouraging to upgrade when it costs this much. I went to Home Depot and saw the drain pipe and why not right? Will do same job, its just good as the expensive ones. And a lot easier to adapt to any universal dust collection fittings with only use of a torch or even a heat gun. When I saw your trash can I was happy because I used the same exact trash can for $20.00 My neighbor got the same thin metal material for almost $400.00 because he said it was the right product for “dust collection”. Nope this trash can works better for a lot cheaper. The only thing I did not think of was installing wheels, thank you for that. I spend a lot of time at Rockler every time i go there, and its very hard to piece together a collection system that easily connects with my harbor freight 2hp without buying all kinds of adapters just to fit 3 different brands of connectors. I’ll be sure to follow you and maybe I can get some more ideas, that i have not think about it yet. Thank you
Very nice setup. I’m doing a similar setup with my shop. I have a question and want to get your advice. I planing on running the jet cyclone 1.5 hp. Which diameter do think is best. I was going to do 6” if I can away with 4” that wouldn’t be better. Wanted to get your opinion ?
6" will move more air, so go with it if you can, though most large tools have a 4" port, so you can branch off to the tools with 4". Some people DIY a 6" port onto their tools to keep it all 6".
Nice video, good job. It actually does make sense for the inlet to the fan to have a bigger diameter than the outlet. That's because the fan generates much greater pressure on the outlet side than suction on the inlet side. So, going from two 4" wye inlets (which is about equal cross sectional area to a single 6" inlet) gives more cross sectional area than the 5" line that you installed. Now, it may not make a difference in your case, since you opted for 4" DWV pipe all around. I'm in the process of doing dust collection for my shop with an old oneida 1.5 hp fan/cyclone and I opted to use 6" DWV all around the shop and then using similar cross section adaptors at the tool. I am still working on this, so your video was really helpful, thanks!
Awesome. Great points too.
@Super Phil What did you end up doing? Where did you find 6"DWV?
@@DIYWoodGuy I can't figure out why you went from a 6" opening to 5" tubing then back up to 6" for the XL Dust Deputy. Wondering if the 5" Deputy would have been cheaper or staying at 6" tubing to the 6" Deputy would have better performance. I ask because I am sorting out a similar system and trying to get the best performance out of my new Jet DC-1200
Hi, I’m really interested in your split room system I too would like to do this with my setup mainly to cut down the noise! Is it possible to have a copy of the sketch up drawing for a reference? Have you done any tests for the flow measurements for efficiency? And did you send the warm air from the collector back into the shop?
Thank you for an excellent video!
Blessings, Andy London England.
Hi Andy. It sounds like you’re on a great path to improving your dust collection. I’m still working to get things going with my website and will offer sketch up plans for sale in the future. Sorry I don’t have anything set up now. I will be doing an upcoming video to measure efficiency. Yes, I do have a return for warm air but this is because my shop is in a commercial space. I have installed large 12 inch pipe l collection systems and it definitely makes a difference there for heat. It will make sense to consider this for a small shop too. I will be doing some upcoming videos on system efficiency and measuring key points. Cheers!
Great video, where did you source the flexible hoses? thanks
All parts for the system minus the white DWV pipe is from Woodcraft.
5" reduction is going to kill this entire system.
The pipe you’re using isn’t “drain-waste-vent”, it’s triple wall pipe and it’s used for underground rainwater drains. The ribbed inner wall would not allow proper drainage of waste material as it would slow the material which is moved solely by gravity. While cheaper that pipe also has the same affect on air flow as it’s not smooth, those ribs still create drag or friction on the air as well as cause any larger material to tumble along the piping instead of staying suspended in the air. It may “work” but it works better with the proper piping.
In many parts of the country schedule 20 isn’t available, only schedule 40, however one might be able to find ABS pipe which is the same diameter but black, the same material as commercially available black plastic dust collector fittings. Both ABS and PVC piping can be heated to make an airtight seal with the fittings, if one doesn’t use the appropriate plumbing fittings, but caution MUST be used when heating PVC, ABS, or Triple Wall drain pipe as heated plastics give off toxic gases. People need to understand this and research how to do this safely, or just pony up a bit more money and buy the plumbing fittings, or stick with actual dust collection pipe. Toxic fumes from heated or burning plastic are just as dangerous, if not more so, than the sawdust you’re collecting.
Edit: having the DC “on” and closing all the blast gates is also a bad idea, it creates way too much back pressure on the motor. A better idea is to open the second gate, then close the first gate leaving the DC able to “breathe”. #protip
Anyway, food for thought. Stay safe. ✌🏼
Closing the blast gates unload the motor. Conversely having the inlet to the impeller wide open and say the bags removed could dangerously overload the motor.
Do you have to manually turn on/off the dust collector everytime you use a tool? I'd prefer the ability to have it automatically start/stop after the tool starts/stops. Great informative video, thanks, subbed!
Yes though in practice I just leave the system running and switch to other tools by opening and closing gates manually. There are systems that automatically start the collector and open the gate when the tool is turned on. If I had unlimited funds this would be the way to go. The premise of this video is to show an inexpensive way to solve the problem. Cheers!
Great video! I'm in the process of building something similar in my shop and had a question about reductions from 4" to 2½". With a 2 hp vacuum, is it best to maintain 4" flex hose all the way to the tool from the blast gate or reduce to 2½" at the blast gate to increase air speed? Most of my tools have 2½" dust ports.
We reduce to 2.5” for convenience. You shouldn’t have an issue reducing down at the gate.
What is the benefit of having the cyclone in addition to the dust collector? Why not just have one bag to empty out?
Looking at setting up piping because I’m new and already tired of rerouting vacuum hoses around. Are the bigger dust collection systems quieter than shop vacs? I’d love something a little less noisy when I’m between cuts.
Very in depth... I like each piece of the puzzle being broken down with size and what it's called... Nice👍
Get out there and build yours! This will change your life with dust collection in the shop. It’s definitely worth it.
Great job and thanks for sharing your retrofitted dust collection system, which comparing to many other similar systems on RUclips, yours is the best!
Easy... maybe. But CHEAP????????? hahahahahahahahahaha.... spare me.
I had this system quoted for metal ducting at $3500. If you want the least expensive option just roll the collector around to your tools. I have less than $500 into the system (minus the collector). Expense is a relative term.
How do you remove the stock 4" dual port from the motor as well as how did you connect the 6-5 reducer to the motor?
Dual port pulls out easily. You may have to tap it with your palm back and forth to get it off. The 6-5 reducer slides into the 6" port. I had to slightly bend mine to get it into place. Seal with duct tape if you find that it leaks.
Very helpful video for someone like myself who knows very little about dust collection. I do have a question that I hope you can answer. When you reduce your pipe size near the machinery, what size is best to reduce to? I have the same DC that you have here so I'm following your method closely.
Great video very helpful. I was shopping for a cyclone and my salesperson told me not to use PVC pipes because of static issues.
This was confirmed by some youtube videos. How did you deal with static grounding ?
That’s one of my most common questions with the system and video. I have been running this in my shop for over a year now. Static is not any measurable problem. I lecture regularly at OSHA conferences and there has never been a single incident of a home shop explosion. The bigger risk is getting shocked and reacting to a tool. The only tall that produces any measurable level of static is the horizontal drum sander. I really don’t think you’re going to have any problem with static. If you do, it is easy to ground your flex pipe to each individual tool by taking the wire on the pipe and screwing it to a metal part of the tool body. Cheers.
@@DIYWoodGuy: Thank You for your fast response. Would you know if the DWV 4" is a good choice? What is OSHA ?
Best Regards
Dirk
@@DIYWoodGuy Try sticky backed copper tape if you encounter a problem - the stuff that's used to restore old slot car track and in gardening. it's cheap (from the auction sites) and easy to apply / reapply. If you are using plastic pipe clips you can also run it over these and to the bracket screws to earth the whole system.
Found this doing research as I'm adding a CNC and trying to figure out how to run ducting to the top of my machine so that something flexible can follow the spindle as it moves around. I long ago discovered the problem that just running flexible hose causes - significant drop in air flow at the tool. Your explanation is good. My CNC is a Laguna IQ Pro, but Axiom CNC has a nice (expensive!) vertical metal pipe that bolts to their CNCs. I bet I can construct something out of this DWV piping with maybe a wood frame to hold it in place that will do the same thing. I'm in So Cal, and I've found static IS an issue here on occasion. I installed a new drum sander recently and it startled me once with a significant zap... I would imagine a CNC, that can run for extended lengths of time, would also be a significant source of static. Static and electronics don't mix well, either... Gonna run some grounding wires.
I run a CNC quite a bit and I can tell you from experience that static can cause the machine to malfunction and reset and is a huge concern. Woodcraft sells a new blue anti static hose that is similar to Festool’s technology on hoses. Ground this back to your machine bed and make sure that your machine bed is grounded as well.
@@DIYWoodGuy I am a Festool guy, and appreciate their anti-static hoses... I wasn't aware that Woodcraft had a 4" anti-static hose. My CNC comes Monday, so I'm quickly sorting out these thorny details. Got the table built. DC is next.
Hello, so I loved your video. I bought the pipe, but i am having an issue finding the wye's and 90's that do not have a bell end on them. I noticed your wye doesn't have a bell on it. Can you tell me which connectors you used please???
Can anyone still find the 4” DWV Thin Wall Pipe? I can't find it anywhere, either online or in local stores
Home Depot looks to have it, but it's no longer $10 for a 10-foot section. It's closer to $18.
Great info! where did you get the black fittings? thanks
Late reply but those fittings look like the Powertec pieces I have been getting from Amazon, as well as flex pipe and clamps, etc. They carry bends, wyes and even a three into one connector. They are sized to be right at 4" o.d., which slips directly into 4" flex hose. Rockler carries most of the same as does Woodcraft (house branded for them), although Amazon usually is a bit cheaper.
Excellent video! Just the info I’ve been looking for, so thank you! 👍🏻👍🏻
Can you bend the pipe instead of using elbows or 45° T connectors? If like to bend it to make one sweeping curve or arch in my ceiling and to avoid connection joints if possible.
Nice set up and a lot of good ideas! I think that you are working with drain tile, not DWV, drain waste and vent which is used for sanitary waste in plumbing work.
Great video, very informative. I do have one question. You pointed out specifically not to use PVC fittings, what fittings do you use? They look like the Woodriver ABS plastic fittings, am I right? If so, I found them to be much more expensive than PVC fittings. Does the cost savings in the pipe really out-weigh the cost savings of the fittings? My assumption is the total price of your system might be higher without crunching the numbers. If this is the case, do you know what other types of fittings can be used with the DWV? Also I didn't notice any grounding. Does this type of system not produce as much static electricity as PVC or metal ducting? Thank you!
Thanks for the reply. PVC fittings are much tighter than the ABS fittings from Woodcraft. This increases resistance. It also requires gluing the joints together which makes the system less First of all for changes. You will be throwing joints away if you decide on system changes and I’ve never had a system that I didn’t want to modify afterwards. The cost of a metal ducting system for my shop would have been $3500. I came in way below this at less than $400. Grounding is a non-issue for me. I have lectured at several OSHA conferences on shop safety, and have had an opportunity to talk with inspectors regarding risks of static. There has never been an explosion In a home shop as a result of dust and static. The bigger concern is getting a small shock and then reacting to it and getting cut. The worst offender in my shop is a drum sander on the tablesaw drop. You can get a decent size spark here, however for me it is not that big of a deal. I have never had a shock on any tool with a blade. Other climates may vary. I would suggest putting in the system and then consider grounding later if you saw it to be a problem. My opinion is that this is entirely over-blown by individuals that don’t know what they’re talking about. I might think different if I lived in a dry climate - it’s not a problem for me.
@@DIYWoodGuy Thanks again for the valuable information. I'm definitely a beginner trying to learn as much as possible before I spend a bunch of money on unnecessary things so I'm glad you replied! I will not worry about the grounding for now. I appreciate you taking the time to inform me and in such a timely matter. I will definitely stay tuned to your channel.
Thanks Joseph. Best of luck.
It’s been a while since you posted this, but I wanted to let you know how helpful I found your video! Can you elaborate on the connection logic/parts to your ‘shop vac’/hand held floor sweep attachment please?
Do you get much in your bag? Thinking about adding a cyclone like yours, seems to be the easiest mod out there for 1 stage collectors.
Night and day difference. 6 mo after the install we had about 2 more inches in the dust collector - emptied the garbage can weekly!
I'm getting ready to install my system and I was wondering if you have run into any problems with grounding.
No issues with grounding.
Thanks for the video. Roughly how much did just the plumbing and gates cost you? I planned on making a similar system with about the same amount of materials and it would be useful to know what I'm getting into as far as cost and my budget.
Definitely one of the better videos on the subject. Thanks for not trying to be funny or background music.
awesome shop, great video. things look like they flow real nice in your set up, i'm digging it!
i was under the instruction by my vac manual to open the gate before starting the collector, not to stress the motor i guess? i admit i don't always comply, but it did happen recently that the switch on my collector heated and partially melted out of whack, had to replace it. now i'm wondering if stressing the motor might be the culprit that heated the switch? idk..... all i know is i want to go clean my shop more now! hago! (have a good one!)
Not realistic from for the common person. This is just a Wow video.
Great video, one of the best I have seen. I agree with previous comments. I just found your channel and am surprised that you don't have more subscribers.
first glance i thought this gonna be cheap and than i saw the JET and was like, im too broke for this XD
What a great vidheo
My Thein separator saved the day.
Great video very helpful! Thank you! Keep up the good work!
Hey thanks for the great video, do you think the metal gates help at all with maintaining the static electricity build up?
Great video!! Thank you for the great and thoughtful information.
The DC1100 was designed for a bag type collector. The choice of 4" duct was not a good one since the blower and your cyclone both have 5" ports. This added restriction kills the CFM. As I remember the 12" impeller of the DC1200 is a direct replacement for the 11" DC1100 blower. Check the amp draw on the motor and compare that against what it is now pulling. The motor is not properly loaded. The 12" will give you a well needed increase in CFM. This is a common mod on the very popular HF DC. Turns out a 12" impeller of a Ricon DC fits.
To get decent CFM in a central system the minimum size for an impeller is 14". There is no free lunch on DC's
Thanks for the feedback. The DC1100 is a great collector - I’ve had the one you see in the video since 2001. Great ideas with the impeller size, I’ll have to look into that more.
I guess as they say “the proof is in the pudding”. I have no concerns over the CFM capacity even at my table saw which has a 13’ vertical raise. There is more than enough static pressure when running one tool at a time and I’ve had no issues with clogs. I wouldn’t change a thing about my system.
this is for beginners? really?
It’s really not that bad when you get into it. You can do it! After pushing a dust collector around for years I’m really happy with the system.
cheap? LOL
Nice set up! Now do you need to ground this system for static build up?
How do you seal the garbage can lid for air leaks?
I'm surprised the 1.5 HP vacuum is able to handle that amount of pipe, fittings, and cyclone. Any issues?
More than enough power. It works great.
Thanks for being honest and informative👍
Splendid tutorial and description of all parts that make up your system. I just did an online search, and I'm afraid that thin-walled DWV ducting isn't even available here in Canada, at least not from the usual retail outlets -- Home Depot, Home Hardware, et cetera. The closest they come is straight PVC, and if I understand your theme, it's to NOT use PVC. I suppose another question for you is what is the material in your black fittings? ABS?
gussy thanks for the note. I chose THIN WALL DWV after discovering that it heat shrinks to the black abs fittings. I distinguish from pvc because pvc is expensive, and has to be glued ( plan on throwing away any glued fittings if you ever want to change). To my knowledge I’m the only video on RUclips that has discovered the secret of thin wall DWV.
You’ll want to source the black fittings through Woodcraft. I realize that they are not in Canada, but try calling a store that is near the boarder like Seattle or the corporate office in West Virginia. Look for a follow on video coming soon with even more tips!
Did you say that your fittings come from Woodcraft?
Thank you. Just beginning plans for dust collection very helpful. I noticed the Rikon 14” bandsaw. I need to replace my 10” for resawing wood blanks and looking at 14” models. Can you provide any suggestions and your thoughts on the Rikon 10-324 or 10-326.
Thanks.
Spring for a 14 inch bandsaw. They are pretty much the de facto standard in most American workshops this specific saw also has the option for an out on module that makes a variable speed which means you can do metal. 14 inch deluxe all the way. 10 inch bandsaw’s will be very limited - but if you only intend to use it on small stuff then it will probably be fine. Second to a table saw the bandsaw is one of the most usable tools in your shop. Cheers!
Great looking system! I disagree with your take on the wall mounted switch. I love my remote for my DC. I've never misplaced it in 10 years. When I'm working in the shop, it's in my pocket or apron. I did manage to suck it into my DC while cleaning my table saw once. LOL.
LOL. I’m not so good at not misplacing things. If you put in an in-line cyclone you won’t have to worry about destroying the remote with the impeller! Yikes!
Any update on the dust collection? I just bought all my parts (minus the ducting) and keep reading about needing to run 5” to the SDD because there’s too much loss with the 4”. It quadruples the price though!
Planning a 1 year review with calculated cam at different ports. I’m very happy with my system and have Mae minimal changes over the last year. Would definitely do again. My farthest port has more than enough capabilities. I think folks get a little too overblown with trying to make everything perfect. Thanks for reaching out.
Great video and always happy to sub another woodworker. I know how hard it is to get subs as I recently started my own channel too. I'm going to pay close attention to a number of these tips as I build out my own shop.
Kudos. In it for the long haul.
Wow, thanks for posting. Always nice to see new ideas.
Enjoyed your video. Your shop looks great! I am curious why you decided to go with a T instead of a wye right at the cyclone. Do you notice any loss in suction. I am trying to plan my dust collection piping as we speak. I want to make it as efficient as possible.
Great question. Avoid Tees whenever possible. I had to turn both directions and in my specific application a Tee was the only way to do that. Every joint, foot of pipe, and feature of the dust collection system causes a reduction in performance - key is to keep minimal components and short runs.
Nice video. One thing I have been told is that before turning on your dust collector you should first open the blast gate to the tool you plan on using. Now, I have not experienced it myself maybe because my DC is only 2hp but, I have heard and seen where a line or cyclone container can collapse under the suction when all of the gates are closed. Maybe it only happens if you have a more powerful collector but I have always made it a habit to open the blast gate first or open the next one I am going to use before closing the previous one if I keep the collector running in-between.
Always good practice to open the gate first, but after you’ve been working in the shop you’ll be bound to forget to do it. It just happens. Don’t use a plastic garbage can. Metal won’t collapse.
At 5:33 your showing a short section of vacuum pipe dangling near the floor of your table saw. What is this used for. I'm thinking for the dust coming down from the cabinet. Very good video well explained. Thanks!
This is for the floor sweep under my workbench. The bench is removed for clarity. I have a video on my channel that shows the details of how I made this.