helpful video, only thing i would do, turn the motor around and the torque schematic like you are working on it in the car, label the schematic exhaust & intake.
Watched this vid out of curiosity and I'm quite impressed. Well done. No doubt these newer engines are higher performance, but I'm glad the simplicity of my ol' '09 razorS pushrod unit should be easier for the top end rebuild I'm just diving into lol! Keep rippin !!
Same design Kia had I did a cylinder head on. It’s what ever takes more time and tools than an elephant’s foot style. Still less parts and they are nice and quiet when lash correctly
Exhaust lash is 0.20 +/- .05mm not 0.30 +/- .05mm as written. FWIW, it is easier to keep everything in metric, including your feeler gauge and you do not need to remove the cam sprockets or replace the cam sprocket bolts to remove or reinstall the cams themselves. Also Polaris' special cam locking tool can be easily homemade. Too bad Polaris doesn't use a shim under bucket design like the rest of the world in preference for the buckets themselves being different sizes-or better yet, hydraulic roller tappets since these engines are not super hight rpm engines.
if I'm doing a cam swap at 300 hr On the engine should I use a new bucket to get my measurements if so which size bucket should I start with I was wondering if I should go with the hot cams buckets But that's $280 Plus new head bolts
What machine is it and what do you mean by running bad? Is it hard to start, burning oil, misfiring, won't idle, etc.? What RPM range? Sounds like the valve adjustment helped for a minute, maybe they are too far gone. How far did you have to go with the valve adjustment? Regardless of the valve adjustment, this is the order I would check everything so you can find out exactly what is going on before replacing anything. Start by checking the basics first (good fuel, clean air filter, check for FI codes, etc.). From there, do a compression and leak-down test. Polaris usually won't give a spec for compression, but compare the two cylinders to verify they are close to the same. After that, use a spark checker to make sure both cylinders have consistent strong spark. If all of that is looking good you can move on to Checking the fuel system (fuel pressure and flow, etc.). We have how-to video's for most of that stuff if you need. Let us know what you find. -Charles
@@rmatvmc Not burning Oil. xp1000 4 seater 2016. Not Burning Oll. Here is what I have done. Aligned first and secondary clutch brand new. New Belt. New fuel pump. New spark plugs Adjusted all Tappets to meet specifications. Started up ran so good. Then died. 65590 and 65592 code still going on. Couldn't get to go off driving. Checked the fuel pump again. with the key on doesn't seem to hold pre pressure.. Running it is pressure about 58-60 ibs Check compressing at spark seems to be 120 I'm guessing that is low. Super Frustrated. What do you charge to diagnose?
Don't cuss me out for asking, but can you buy a bit thicker buckets & then grind down the center post thats part of the bucket & under the bucket to fit. Hence don't need to buy more buckets than I need!
small torque specs like 7fl lbs should always be done with a inch lb torque wrench. I believe 89in lbs is the torque spec. 7ft lbs from a torque wrench is highly inaccurate. Other than that, very informative
I have a 2014 Polaris 1000 xp the machine is dying at an idle I changed the primary clutch checked the valves and noticed it was out of time I put it back into time and the machine ran good for about 10 minutes and stalled out again and kicked it back out of time any ideas why it’s doing this?
I'd start by upgrading your cam chain tensioner, since the stock hydraulic tensioners are known to have issues. That will probably solve your problem, but if you have a lot of miles on the machine, you might need to look into a rebuild. There's always the possibility that the cam chain and guides are worn out, so take a good look at those parts and use our engine rebuild videos for reference. ruclips.net/video/3fdbTq3J0ek/видео.htmlsi=WIZaC_RI3Vrh2kx9 ruclips.net/video/tjp8My7EiSI/видео.htmlsi=-6vqV-ZpjUBNh1DZ ruclips.net/p/PLQNbY8vNfRmWMQnSZCp_awRkeciXCB1Q6&si=szIoaLPDASsWW2gS -Charles
Tried that on a 2015 XP 1000, could not get the chain on the intake gear had to remove the gear to get the chain on. The video shows rotating the engine without the cam chain tensioner on does not work, chain slips off the exhaust gear and jams cam chain.
Need help, E gear is on, when I install locking plate and put one bolt in I gear and release cam holding plate timing chain jumps teeth. So then I gear is out of time and have to start over, any ideas to help me?
@@jima7185 try intlstalling guide over the top of the two gears, I actually cheat when doing it ,I get them lined up then hold them in place them have my buddie turn the primary clutch counterclockwise just a little bit so the lobes of the cams are not putting any pressure on the buckets then snug all the caps down then rotate the engine and make sure the cam marks like up, let me know if that helps it's kind of hard to describe it in a text
helpful video, only thing i would do, turn the motor around and the torque schematic like you are working on it in the car, label the schematic exhaust & intake.
Watched this vid out of curiosity and I'm quite impressed. Well done. No doubt these newer engines are higher performance, but I'm glad the simplicity of my ol' '09 razorS pushrod unit should be easier for the top end rebuild I'm just diving into lol! Keep rippin !!
Same design Kia had I did a cylinder head on. It’s what ever takes more time and tools than an elephant’s foot style. Still less parts and they are nice and quiet when lash correctly
Exhaust lash is 0.20 +/- .05mm not 0.30 +/- .05mm as written. FWIW, it is easier to keep everything in metric, including your feeler gauge and you do not need to remove the cam sprockets or replace the cam sprocket bolts to remove or reinstall the cams themselves. Also Polaris' special cam locking tool can be easily homemade. Too bad Polaris doesn't use a shim under bucket design like the rest of the world in preference for the buckets themselves being different sizes-or better yet, hydraulic roller tappets since these engines are not super hight rpm engines.
if I'm doing a cam swap at 300 hr On the engine should I use a new bucket to get my measurements if so which size bucket should I start with
I was wondering if I should go with the hot cams buckets
But that's $280 Plus new head bolts
What type of sealant do you use? And what type of assembly lube did you use? Thank you great video
Very well done and explained, thank you!
Detailed video and great filming. Made it look easy.
Thanks so much for video. Did all adjustments and fired up great. Then went back to running bad. any suggestion?
What machine is it and what do you mean by running bad? Is it hard to start, burning oil, misfiring, won't idle, etc.? What RPM range? Sounds like the valve adjustment helped for a minute, maybe they are too far gone. How far did you have to go with the valve adjustment? Regardless of the valve adjustment, this is the order I would check everything so you can find out exactly what is going on before replacing anything. Start by checking the basics first (good fuel, clean air filter, check for FI codes, etc.). From there, do a compression and leak-down test. Polaris usually won't give a spec for compression, but compare the two cylinders to verify they are close to the same. After that, use a spark checker to make sure both cylinders have consistent strong spark. If all of that is looking good you can move on to Checking the fuel system (fuel pressure and flow, etc.). We have how-to video's for most of that stuff if you need. Let us know what you find. -Charles
@@rmatvmc Not burning Oil. xp1000 4 seater 2016. Not Burning Oll. Here is what I have done. Aligned first and secondary clutch brand new. New Belt. New fuel pump. New spark plugs Adjusted all Tappets to meet specifications. Started up ran so good. Then died. 65590 and 65592 code still going on. Couldn't get to go off driving. Checked the fuel pump again. with the key on doesn't seem to hold pre pressure.. Running it is pressure about 58-60 ibs Check compressing at spark seems to be 120 I'm guessing that is low. Super Frustrated. What do you charge to diagnose?
Hi,good video,what Is the correct adjust. For intake AND exhaust Valve ?
Hey can I bring my 2013 ranger to you this morning to get valves adjust and pick it up tomorrow when I come back home
Hi what measurements should the valves on the polaris have can you please help me ?
Don't cuss me out for asking, but can you buy a bit thicker buckets & then grind down the center post thats part of the bucket & under the bucket to fit. Hence don't need to buy more buckets than I need!
The tappets are sold individually so you will only need to order the ones your rebuild requires.
Nice job on the vid! At 1:42 you mention a "cylinder holder and cam timing plate." What is that? I can't find it on your website.
AZ Lang just use a piece of flat iron
small torque specs like 7fl lbs should always be done with a inch lb torque wrench. I believe 89in lbs is the torque spec. 7ft lbs from a torque wrench is highly inaccurate. Other than that, very informative
hi mi friends,with new valves what is the tolence in stock?
Are you using the correct spec for the exhaust side valves?
I think it’s 8 isn’t it? On the exhaust side
@@whatslucky This dude doesn't know what in hell he's doing!
I have a 2014 Polaris 1000 xp the machine is dying at an idle I changed the primary clutch checked the valves and noticed it was out of time I put it back into time and the machine ran good for about 10 minutes and stalled out again and kicked it back out of time any ideas why it’s doing this?
I'd start by upgrading your cam chain tensioner, since the stock hydraulic tensioners are known to have issues. That will probably solve your problem, but if you have a lot of miles on the machine, you might need to look into a rebuild. There's always the possibility that the cam chain and guides are worn out, so take a good look at those parts and use our engine rebuild videos for reference. ruclips.net/video/3fdbTq3J0ek/видео.htmlsi=WIZaC_RI3Vrh2kx9 ruclips.net/video/tjp8My7EiSI/видео.htmlsi=-6vqV-ZpjUBNh1DZ ruclips.net/p/PLQNbY8vNfRmWMQnSZCp_awRkeciXCB1Q6&si=szIoaLPDASsWW2gS -Charles
Are valve clearances the same for rangers?
You will want to consult the service manual for your specific machine to make sure you get the correct clearances.
Me lo podías enviar en español gracias
I have a 2020 RZR TURBO S VELOCITY and I have the code 66028 I need help
Si bisible en francais
That makes me not want to buy a rzr... that much work to get to a potentially routine job... crazy
Gotta give the dealer something to do once in a while. /s
It takes an hour. WOW! Dems da breaks!
No need to pull the cam gears off.
Tried that on a 2015 XP 1000, could not get the chain on the intake gear had to remove the gear to get the chain on. The video shows rotating the engine without the cam chain tensioner on does not work, chain slips off the exhaust gear and jams cam chain.
@@jima7185 I've never taken the gears off and have done this countless times
Need help, E gear is on, when I install locking plate and put one bolt in I gear and release cam holding plate timing chain jumps teeth. So then I gear is out of time and have to start over, any ideas to help me?
@@jima7185 try intlstalling guide over the top of the two gears, I actually cheat when doing it ,I get them lined up then hold them in place them have my buddie turn the primary clutch counterclockwise just a little bit so the lobes of the cams are not putting any pressure on the buckets then snug all the caps down then rotate the engine and make sure the cam marks like up, let me know if that helps it's kind of hard to describe it in a text
@@halfbenjaminmarshall7134 Can the engine be rotated without the cam chain tensinsor instsalled?