Best Engine Oil for a 7.3L Powerstroke. It’s not what you think.
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- Опубликовано: 8 ноя 2022
- It gets asked continuously on Forums and Social Media groups. And the answer is not what you'd think. The absolute best diesel engine oils are you're boutique oils (Amsoil, Schaeffer's, Hot Shot's Secret. etc...). But unless your are running extended oil interval or pushing major horsepower, you probably wont see the benefits of those expensive oils. If you want to extend your oil change interval (OCI) a little, or if it takes you a long time to rack up the 5,000 miles prescribed for an oil change, you might want to consider a synthetic. Or if you want to run a 5w-40 diesel oil for better cold start characteristics, you'll need a synthetic, otherwise a conventional 15w-40 is fine. If you have re-routed you're CCV, you might want to stay away from Rotella, because from my experience, it stinks the most. You should probably consider Valvoline Premium Blue or Mobil Delvac 1.
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I had a 2000 7.3 diesel was just about 300,000 miles on it and ran Amsoil and it was converted to run on Waste cooking oil which I had a second tank and that got me real far for free. You need to look into it.
Smelling like French Fries everywhere you go 😉
If it was slippery, it should work ok
I ran Rotella t6 5w40 in my 02 7.3 the whole time i owned it. Never did it use any nor did I have an issue.
It’s good Oil. It just stinks. My CCV is vented to the atmosphere. I run anything else now 😂
I have a 6.7 and use Rotella t5 and it dose just fine
The 6.7 Strokes are amazing engines.
@Freedom Worx i got 311260 miles on mine so far
@@robertjohnsonmetals3727 that's a lot of miles on a 6.7. Hard to believe they've been around 10 years already.
@Freedom Worx i put alot on it but it works hard pulling loads
I ran whatever was in the cheap bucket of 15-40 at rural king. Old farm truck. Hauled over 5-8 ton regularly. Even disked with it when tractors were down. That truck went just over 500k, and the engine wasn't the problem. The rest of the truck just got to the point of not being worth putting money into it.
Cheapest oil that meets the spec 👍. Sounds like you got the hood out of that truck! 😎
@@freedomworx my poor vehicles are abused. 🤣
Damn, love it.
Yep. Ball joints, steering links, tie rod ends, steer gearbox, universal joints (my crew cab 4x4 shortbed has 3 on the rear drive shaft, 2 on the front wheel shaft and 2 more behind the front wheel hubs, steering column, steering column shift tube (they randomly snap in the Summertime heat) .. Ignition lock cylinder from idiots breaking in trying to steal it, bearings, grease, A/C systems, tires, $100 @ Walmart for 14 qts of synthetic oil & a filter, fuel filters $30 every 3rd oil change, realistically city miles should be changed every 3500 because they're severe duty. Ball joints, manually cleaning the leaves out of the radiator so air can get sucked through the A/C condenser, power steering cooler, transmission cooler, intercooler and then finally through the radiator into the engine bay - yes, debris WILL accumulate in between these components and must be cleared to restore proper airflow/cooling. There is a huge belt-driven fan, however in order for it to work it depends on the fins of all these coolers lined up in front to be cleared of debris. I just spent my mornings pulling leaves out of the radiator to help air pass through the condenser since it was jammed not allowing sufficient airflow. Then alternators, glow plugs, relays, starters, radiators, intercoolers... At 320k miles running a superchips perf tune on 33" tires with a 1.5" front lift, it's only a matter of time before ball joints, hubs, bearings, seals, - there's always something other than the engine, getting ready to break, fall apart or spring a leak or otherwise fail at any given moment! That's something I can always count on!
Have you considered an oil bypass filter kit. They do work well and can extend oil change intervals. Just an idea for you if haven’t heard. Great videos by the way.
Yes, I am aware of bypass filtration. I think they are great for folks who run a ton of miles, like Hot Shot drivers. But they don’t make sense for most folks. But I have thought about adding one just for scientific purposes. Everyone says that the HEUI injectors shear the oil. I’d like to run a bypass and some high end oil, just to see how long it lasts via used oil analyses.
Fuck that I’d rather just change it when it’s due bud
As long as it has CK-4 on the specs, all diesel engine oil is good my 7.3 powerstroke fam. Thats the important part, after that its personal perspective.
Pretty much. 👍
My 7.3L runs great when I use John Deere Plus 50 II 5w-40 & 15w-40 depending on the season and always Amsoil pure synthetic.
Interesting. I wonder who makes Deere’s oil for them 🤔
Always used rotella 15w-40 like the owners manual says got 323k on her rn n been driving her daily for a couple months now never had an issue with cold starts
If your batteries, starter, and glow plug systems are all good, 15W-40 works fine. Most of these old rigs don’t have all that 😂.
@@freedomworx I agree law fortunate enough to have a truck that stayed in the family since it was pretty much new, has a Mitsubishi starter in it ever since then fires up on the first crank
My daily is a 2006 Duramax that my granddad bought brand new. I know the service history on it. Basically no mechanical components touched or replaced until I got it. Meaning there were several things that I had to address when it became mine 2 years ago 😂
@@freedomworx that's badass the best trucks are passed down I had an LBZ at one point with about 26000 miles on it, had the opposite of maintenance history so kind of the reason I'm a Ford guy 😂
Premium blue is awesome for conventional oil
This was the Extreme flavor Premium Blue. Full synthetic. 😎
The oil that’s on sale 😊
Exactly!
Old technology engine with loose tolerance. Use conventional 15w40. You are over thinking this.
Most people overthink it. 😉
Best oil is amsoil and put a bypass filter on it to extend oil life
I might just test those products 😉
@@Jim-pw3wz though I’ve never tested it, my assumption is that Amsoil uses a better base stock, which requires less viscosity index improvers. Meaning it will maintain its viscosity longer than the Valvoline.
Shaeffers 15w40 synthetic goes for a very long time! Claims of going 60k on one change.
They make good stuff.
Kenworth will honor a 80,000 mile warranty with no oil change only if you use schaeffers tho
Run archoil 9100, trust me it makes a huge difference. 1 ounce per quart...
I used to run it when I had old injectors. Definitely helped them out.
we use to order 55 gallon drums of Royal Purple on the farm and in our engine shop. in my opinion is the best oil for any application. yeah it's expensive but you get what you pay for.
And it’s purple. The color of Royalty 🫅
@@freedomworx well from my experience having some marines as friend's, purple has always been the most delicious crayon. So I figure hell, why not. The engines will love me. 😂
Royal Purple stuff is all pretty good
Did any one remember the toilet paper filter thing. I remember truck fleets using the setup without issues. You never changed oil , just added as needed, cause it stayed crystal amber clear.
That's the Frantz Filter, not sure what it was called before that. It's a bypass filtration system. You still need to do analysis on the oil and make sure the additive package is still effective.
Wow. The Toilet Paper filter kit (Frantz) is still sold. First saw it in mid 1960s. Thought it was bunk , but apparently not. Never change oil , just keep adding as needed
That's what they say. I've got an Amsoil Bypass kit in the box to try out. We'll see how it goes. 🤷♂️
The 22 cummins takes 10-30 bc they put in roller rockers to reduce engine noise
Cummins has never been good at quiet. 😂
Smoking crack if you're gonna pass up rotella t6 because of a "smell"
Smoking crack if you think there is any appreciable difference in the level of protection any of them offer your engine 😉
@Freedom Worx Tests prove otherwise, rotella t6 is a superior oil, especially for the cost and availability, and like I said, any "smell" you think you smell isn't reason to pass up an oil.
I use t6 5w40 in my 96 7.3 love it
It’s a good oil 👍
I have a 7.3 power stroke 2000 model 190,000 miles and the past 40,000 miles It has run Schaeffers oil
They make good stuff 👍
Used nothing but Delo400 on many 7.3 powerstrokes and if there was a problem it was never because of the oil.
It's all good enough 👍
My 7.3 loved to burn the t6 5w40. Especially when it started getting cold. Put good ol T4 15w40 didn’t notice a difference in cold start differences and stopped burning it as much.
15w-40 will evaporate slower or less at operating temperature than 5w-40. I big part of oil consumption is evaporations, not necessarily “burning.” That being said, a more viscous oil is less likely to slip past piston rings (burning). 👍
I just ran mobil turbo diesel 5/40 5000k and used two quarts it was down to the add mark soo I changed it went to t6 15/40 and what a difference did it make runs a lot smoother now thees things were designed to be ran on the recommended weight of oil there's an approved list of oils for thees
Anything certified (& slippery too) is my WAG. Did I Win the Contest?
Slippery and cheap! 😂
5W-40 HD oil does make cold starts a whole lot easier
Yes, but there is more to an engine oil than cold start characteristics. You have to consider the difference in high temp characteristics and longevity of the oil. There are reasons that the manufacturer recommends 15W-40 over a 5W-40 for most situations. There are trade-offs 👍
@@freedomworx I think the recommendation of 15w-40 stems from the lack/availability of synthetic oils back when these engines were designed. Synthetics offer so much more in terms of longevity and protection that no Dino oil can provide.
@kenxiong6830 it’s definitely a factor. Manufacturers didn’t want to require a synthetic then, and they still don’t if they can help it. I run synthetic 15W-40 most of the time now. 👍
@@freedomworx synthetics is the only way towards efficiency. Normal Dino oil is incapable of doing what synthetics can
I like your hat where did you get it or did you have it made
It’s my Buddy’s YT Channel. bustedknucklegear.com/
Didn’t know Bert Kreisler was into cars
Burnt Chrysler 😎🤓
Schaefers 15w-40 OTR liquid moly. 447,500 miles
Almost broken in 😉
Yeah that Mobil delvac 5w40 synthetic is pretty good stuff 7.3 loves it 😂
It's good stuff. But the more I learn about Engine Oil, I actually plan to switch back to synthetic 15W-40, and see how the starting characteristics and oil analysis look.
@@freedomworx they make that same oil in 15w40 in synth too I thought about trying it my self right now I’m using 5w40 so good so far 👍
Go for amsoil full synthetic if you can afford it the best stuff I’ve ever run make sure you do the engine flush first though
I’ve got plans to test a high end oil. Not sure whether I want to use Amsoil or Hot Shot Secret.
I just always used the Motorcraft oil
Motorcraft doesn’t make that oil and it isn’t any better than anything else on the shelf. Just something to consider.
Delo 400 1995 motorcraft filter. 322 everything stock runs like a top.
2000, nothing stock, whatever synthetic is on sale, FL1995, 246K, runs like a Clydesdale on meth. 😎
@@freedomworx I like the analogy. Mine is a 2002 crew cab 6 spd manual. Bd exhaust brake flat bed use it primarily to pull 20" goose neck stock and flat bed trailers. Love my truck.!
10w-40 good cold start ability, with the protection of 15w-40
Why not just go 0W-40 then 🤷🏻♂️💪🏼
Been using rotella t6 5/40 and 15/40 depemding on weather...
Delvac and rotella is made at the same refinery... Anyone noticed the delvac smelling too?
Mobil and Shell oils made at the same refinery?
When I change every 3k I use rotella 15W-40 & motorcraft FL1995A in my 03 7.3, Archoil ar9100 additive is good for Heui injectors.
Might be a little overkill my friend 😂 Might want to do a used oil analysis next time. You’ll see how much you are using in the table. 🤑
@@freedomworx it might be overkill but oil is the cheapest maintenance that you can do!
15 quarts every 3k miles is not cheap. Especially when there is literally zero negative effect from going to 6K, 7k, 8k. A $40 analysis, one time, will save you from doing twice as many $100 oil changes than you need to 🤷🏻♂️.
@@freedomworx I buy oil in bulk.
@@2003-2fitty can’t hide money 😉🤑
What about the FoMoCo synthetic blended oil?
I’ve never seen synthetic blend diesel oil.
Schaeffer's 15w40
They make good stuff.
I ran synthetic t6 just cause I didn't feel like it was too expensive.
It’s a good value, and usually easy to find.
T6 Rotella 5w 40w
I prefer the 15W-40 for Georgia. It’s stupid hot here. 🥵
7.3 powerstroke loves 10w30 hdeo
You live in Canadia?
Best oil out there man 10w 30 in all diesels 6.7 comes to life on 10w30 15w40 is gas guggling over rated unless ur pulling max towing capacity, there is no reason to use that heavy weight oil 10w30 does it perfectly fine
Rotella t4 15w40 and fleetgaurd lf3974 only no question 450 hp 250,000 miles
Almost broken in.
What about motorcraft oil is it good?
It’s fine. I just buy whatever synthetic is cheapest at the moment 🤷🏻♂️
Amsoil 15-40 for the win.
Tastes like money 🤑
@@freedomworx money taste good
Ya should have an hour meter on that thing. And change every 50 hours, regardless of miles.
I think Navistar recommends a 350hr oil change interval on the TE444. Granted, the 7.3L PSD is rated at a higher HP than the TE444, it’s doubtful that the PSD actually operates at a higher average power level than the TE444 unless it’s towing continuously. So 50hr oil changes is extremely conservative.
My 6.4 had 305 miles and 14850 hours. I did not change the oil 20 times per year🤣
Interesting 🤨
I was probably drinking that day 😉
If you don’t like to change ur oil, get oil by the bucket for $50-60, put an EZ drain valve on it, & a hose clamp on the valve to keep it closed, on 94-03 7.3s they won’t run without oil in em.
I get the cheapest decent conventional oil I can, motorcraft FL1995A filter, & change it every 4.5-5K I usually change it at around 4.5 I’ve gone over, but I like my engine better than that.
Just change the oil don’t be cheap. 7.3s don’t need synthetic, if you want some extra power, put some Lucas oil stabilizer in it. Dsls love it.
I run my 7.3L 7500 miles on synthetic. Analysis always come back great.
No they don't that shit ain't worth a damn and cause aeration witch cause cavatitation in injectors heui engines especially don't like Lucas , it even says not to use it it in psd on the bottle I think
Is that hank from king of the hill? Or anderson from beavis and butthead
Watch your mouth Gomer.
Peanut oil for the win
Avocado oil 🤓
😂😂
Not the walmart battery
2 of them 🤓
My answer is whatever is cheapest on the shelf she’s absolutely clapped out and has 305k when it dies it dies I got 500 bucks in it😂
That's me. Cheapest synthetic 5W-40 or 15W-40 Diesel Oil on the shelf that day.
15-40 Delvac HDEO 5-40 incorrect o oil pressure and excessive injector noise and like to leak out and als0 gets eaten by the engine faster only 15-40 semi or full synthetic conventional will eat you injectors and seals
The engine doesn’t know the difference between 5W-40 and 15W-40 at operating temperature 🤷🏻♂️ and these engines were designed to run on conventional oil just fine.
Whatever is chapest 7.3 doesnt care as long as it has oil
Honey Badger don’t care 😎
I have a 7.3 what about costco Kirkland brand
It’s all good enough. 👍
@freedomworx thanks, this is my first diesel.
@@richardsalmon8501 they are good engines. Just a few common oil leaks to fix, glow plugs and relay, and injectors generally need relaxing after 200k. I always run synthetic in my 7.3L. Starts easier when it’s cold out 🥶
@@freedomworx thanks bro. I have a 2000 Ford excursion 7.3 turbo diesel
Same 😎
It literally does not matter. All oil is held to a standard, every fuel is held to a standard. Everything has standards that meet the minimum requirements to be held to standard and are all still glorified dinosaur carcasses. So stop wasting time thinking and just put oil in your dang trucks.
I've got $10 that say's you can't actually reference the oil "Standard" you are talking about 😉
Are people even still using non synthetic oil these days. I haven't seen it in the 20 years I've been in the motor trade lol
If you haven't seen conventional oil in 20 years, you must be in the space ship motor trade...
@@freedomworx no just not in USA. Europe has advanced, we don't have 5/6k oil change intervals either. Mineral oils haven't been used in at least 20 years on new cars. , Yeah you still get the classics that will use it but they were built before synthetic oils were a thing ..
@@readmore7180 thanks for letting me know. I wasn’t aware that Europe only used synthetic. But all comes out of the same hole in the ground. 😉
If you wait 5,000 miles, I know your oil stays black even when you change it. Ask me how I know that
If the oil isn’t black, then it’s not capturing the contaminant in the oil.
@@freedomworx when the oil turns black, that means you waited too long to replace your filter rookie. A brand new oil change shouldn't turn black right away
@@freedomworx it's one thing to let it get a little bit dark, but don't let it get like crude oil. I work at the Bobcat dealer
@@freedomworx I know how to make them last, my 96 Ford Taurus has 733,000 original miles, still has the original timing chain and the original front and rear seal on the motor, still runs good and I would drive it across country right now and not have a problem. Trust what I'm saying
@@stephenmckee6439 full flow oil filters don’t capture soot. It’s much smaller than they are capable of catching 🤷🏻♂️
You can't go 5,000 miles, you have to account for idling miles. Every diesel motor that I maintain, when you pull that stick, the oil is clean as a whistle
My idle miles are zero, because it doesn’t move when it’s idling.
@@freedomworx you missing what I'm saying. When you sitting and idling, your engine is still cooking the oil when it's running. So you have to account for how long you sit there and idle and you will always have clean oil if you do that.
@@freedomworx don't listen to the people saying your oil is supposed to be black.
@@stephenmckee6439 my truck has very little idle time.
@@stephenmckee6439 there is nothing wrong with black oil. Diesels make get soot in the oil. That’s just the way it is. Just because it’s black doesn’t mean it’s having any negative effect on your engine.
5-40 is not what that calls for nor is it designed for that also never taking car advise from a guy using never start batteries
Yet all my oil analysis results come back way better than average 😎. What’s your beef with Never Starts. Are they the best…nope. But they are a good value and I can exercise the warranty 24/7 363. You can wait until Napa opens Monday morning when you are supposed to be at work 😘
He's using a multi viscosity oil for exactly what it was formulated for. Nothing wrong with that.
@@Deucealive75 I can’t believe that fella judged my acumen based on my choice of truck battery 😂
You can get away with going 5,000 MI, but you going to just build up sludge overtime
I went 10k miles on this oil 🤷🏻♂️
Shit we got a 01 7.3 at work, has 460k miles and change oil usually atleast 10k miles maybe 15k at most or once a year and she still runs good, has a hard time starting lately but it's something to do with charging system as it starts easier hooked to cables for awhile
@@smokeythehuman3596 I’ll say this about stretching out the 7.3 oil change interval. Used to drive an early 99 7.3 that I hauled tractors with every day. So it towed a trailer 95% of the time. Ran great, but had an injector hang open at 120k miles and kill the motor. Pretty sure running too long of an oil change interval contributed to that. The owner wanted to run the conventional 15w-40 for 7500 miles between oil changes on a truck that was tuned and towed 95% of the time.
Dude rambles on then trashes rotella 🤦♂️
I didn’t trash Rotella. I use it in my other trucks, because it’s readily available at Walmart, and a very versatile oil. I’m simply stating my experience with it. It produces more odors in an engine that vents the crank case pressure to the atmosphere, compared to other options like Premium Blue or Delvac.
I don't know what I believe from someone who uses Walmart batteries in their "Built" truck.....Sorry guy.
Spend your money where it matters. I’ve got a 3 year warranty at a store that is open 24/7 363 days a year. No need to wait until Napa opens at 7AM on Monday.
BAHAHAHAHAHA
Most stolen motor in America. Better weld it to the garage
👀
I used Rottella for yrs with 0 issues,but the truck I have now had Amzoil in it for 200,000 bottom end still looks new.(new oil pan)
Danged ole oil pan! Engine have to come out? Amsoil makes good stuff. 👍
Use one tablespoon of sand per quart your truck will last a billion miles
Fake News 😂