Dana 70 axle rebuild brakes and bearings tips and tricks
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Rebuilding a Dana70 or in this case actually a rare Dana71 with 3.07 gears to put in my crew cab. This swap will allow low RPM fuel efficient cruising or pulling hard with the transmission in direct thus avoiding the problems that often come from putting high diesel torque thru a light duty transmission and its countershaft. I show how to inspect wheel hubs, how to fix a common problem that causes shaking and brake shudder as well as a tip about bearings and fretting fatigue. I hope you enjoy!
I had no idea about getting the runout to a minimum! You have literally solved a 4 year problem I’ve had with my truck. I was changing shoes, new parking brake cables, different bearing preloads with torque wrench and everything else underneath those hubs to get it stop that drag. Thanks for putting this video out!! Just subscribed!
Glad I could help!
Wow. I'm an old school mechanic & only just now learned the rest of the story! Keep em coming!
Thanks Brian I am doing a brake job for a friend and never did anything this heavy so your instructions are very informative appreciate the help!
Thanks for your time and effort here Brian.
Your spring song birds are awesome. Makes me homesick. You should record them and sell it as sounds to mill by...! The city is sometimes so noisy it's hard to think. Thanks! The bigger hammer and adjustment to the drum was really excellent.
The song birds must make Baily sleepy. lol
I just spent my afternoon trying to beat my drum true but to no avail, I’m working on a Saginaw/GM 10 1/2” full float. I even loosened up the wheel studs (by this I mean beating them back into the drum), but couldn’t get anywhere from 0.015”. I gave up and just spent the rest of my time putting the new brakes on. I think I’ll try again tomorrow. Thank you Brian for taking your time to make helpful videos such as this and I continue to enjoy all of your other videos as well.
You might have to take the hub and drum to someone with a lathe and have them true them up.
@@bcbloc02 I think you are correct, I’m ashamed my lathe isn’t working (motor is off and it’s all covered in gooey fluid film), I just trying to find a permanent place to setup shop. Thanks for your valued advice.
Great video Brian. Keep em coming please
Good job Brian, I like the fine adjusting with the little hammer. Bailey approved.
Baily likes a smooth ride. He can't sleep if the truck is shaking too bad. LOL
He's waiting for the proof in the pudding.
I'll trade my first gen for Bailey
Looks like the perfect project to do in your new shop once it gets completed.
I have never seen that trick of moving the drum with respect to the drive plate. Fortunately I graduated to discs all around, except for my 55 Chevy. I am always amazed at the little details. Good one.
Things like that are the difference between working and working nice. :-)
I came here looking for the solution to an off center drum. I found it. Great video. You might want to edit your title to fixing out-of-round on the Dana 70's or some such wording. I'm sure I'm not the only one!
ElderlyIron glad it helped! I added key words to the tags so maybe that will help people find the video and the help. If you are on any forums you can share it there too and that helps more than anything.
I just swapped the drum like you would any other, but when I went to adjust the brakes, I could see the drum was off center. I measured it and it was .060 out! Took it to the parts place to put it on the lathe and found the root cause. 3 seasoned mechanics standing there wondering how (or WHY) this could be!
I'll most likely make a video and give you the credit and add a link to your video. Is this procedure in the service manual?
ElderlyIron it is not listed anywhere in the service book as the original factory drums had a machined pilot that matched the hub, then they were machined as an assembly. This only worked at the factory though where they could hold those matched tolerances. The aftermarket stuff had to be made much looser so it would always fit. The result was the slop you encountered.
Good to know. Certainly didn't make sense the way it is.
Had no idea a full float spindle type had to or could be adjusted in that way. I guess I found a new use for my indicator and base. Thank you
Thank you so much Sir!! Learned a lot from this video!
Glad it was helpful!
Back hurts looking at rear. Love repair vids Brian. Thx
It is a chunck to pick up! I would guess 600lb assembled.
You make that look easy. I hate doing automotive drum brakes. Good video Brian
Baily seemed to be bored with your rebuild, I on the other hand learned a few things, again… Dialing in the drum with a masher (Mauler up here in Canada, appeared to be about a size 7) was a great demonstration of details! Thanks for the video. Take Care
If there is not food or petting involved Baily lacks enthusiasm. A lot of problems can be fixed with a bigger hammer. :-)
Thanks for making this great video Brian - one thing missed was setting the torque on the hub nut- once you get a load on that rear a lot more shocks and jars than the hammer whacks will move things on the hub. Also for anyone needing to do this job, a new hub nut should be used - should come with a locking tab. Should also get a new one-time use hub cover gasket. The hub nut and gasket are one time use. If you miss the proper setting of torque you may hear the bearings whining at speed up to 45 MPH.
I assume you mean a rolling torque value as you sure don't want to torque the nut against the bearings. The bearings have to run with clearance so the oil can get between them if you tighten the nut against the bearings then there is no clearance and they will overheat and fail when loaded.
Absolutely- when I did this last was with the axle out so we could spin the hub. As I recall the Dana specs on the 70U are 120-140 ft/lbs then back off 1/3 turn. Mind you, it may be different on the 71- I would think it would be close to that however. I don't think the hubs are too different versus the Ford version.
Hi Brian,
Here, we don't need a bigger hammer to center the drums, the roads are so bad that it replaces the "Bigger Hammer"
The tail won't wag until the job is totally completed... lol (Baily knows better...!!! )
This old truck is gonna ride better than a new one... ;)
Cheers, Pierre
The roads might readjust the centering of your wheels but won't do much for the drums since they hang from the hubs. Our roads are plenty rough here too. We pay lots of taxes for roads but they seem to get reappropriated for pet projects instead.
a few new things that I'll keep in mind . New drums are on the long list for mine. I replaced my original with a jasper rebuilt. all new bearings, brakes and related hardware including lines back to the rwal unit, but still have the original drums. they may turn, but I figure that it's time
At the very least, Bailey, could be gettin' after that woodpecker instead of layin' around loafin' on the grass. If that woodpecker takes a likin' to your house siding, you'll have to get out the bird shot for your .22 .
I admire your dedication to improvements to your "stuff". I tend to use my equipment until it breaks and then procrastinate regarding repairs and improvements. Good video! Enjoyed!
I want every thing dialed in for the upcoming trip to get the 20000lb+ drill.
Nice... The rear bearings are gonna get oil from the differential...hopefully! Thanks for sharing the job!
They better get oil! I always jack up one side at a time after filling the diff to be sure they get a good dose of lube before driving.
Thanks!! You know it and we appreciate you showin' it...Thanks!
Good to know. When I pulled my axle out there was some oil in the hub (though not in the drums) wasn't sure if that was right or not. So oil mixing in with the packed bearings is ok? (this is my first full floating diff - so I'm still learning)
I never thought about forcing the drum around, which is a shame because I have never in my life seen a drum run true or centered on anything. Bet the drums on my truck are every bit off center as yours just based on the how my shoes drag. I'd love to have that gear ratio too, but being 4x4 I"ll live with my 3.55's Finally for the win. Blitz black. That stuff is tough as nails. I buy it by the quart, and add some of the valspar hardener. Brings the gloss up to a matte, maybe just under semi gloss finish. Paint tractor axles shafts with it, slide duals over it and not a scratch.
I painted my drop deck trailer with blitz black years ago and it has held up very well. For the money it is hard to beat!
love that ol truck
Nothing better than fresh hardware and brakes, you should see much better fuel mileage with the higher gear ratio. Don't forget to add the air bag kit!
Brackets are already drilled and mounted to the truck. :-) I wanted to do the axle swap before finishing the install though so I didn't have to do it twice.
Right on!
Rock Auto strikes again
I like to pack a little bit of grease in the bearings, to be sure they have lube from the start.
I used to do that but found getting the proper bearing setting difficult as the grease held clearance the oil would not.
these aren't to be greased, they are lubed by the differential fluid... do NOT grease these bearings
I had trouble with them too - I just got some parts from RockAuto and 2 of the bearings they sent me were made in China (branded National), and a 3rd one was a returned item that was previously installed - they used to be good but seems that they're cutting corners lately. Still the best value when it comes to brake parts but I'll be buying the bearings locally from now on (not worth the trouble even with their price levels, can't be putting chinese bearings in a vehicle)
The Timken bearings were US but their seals are Taiwan. All the Bendix stuff was China except the brake springs. It is really hard to find any parts that are US made anymore. The Delco stuff was about 50-50 US and China.
Well done ! Thanks for the helpful tips !
Nice tip on adjusting the drum on the hub. The shoes are called primary and secondary, If I remember correctly the primary is always on the rear side of the axle and the secondary is on the front side of the axle. Generally the primary has the larger amount of friction material on the shoe. Did you check the ring and pinion out? Matt C
I felt the pinion and it feels ok, I will give it a check out when I have the cover off to clean everything in there before adding new oil. Backlash felt good so it is likely ok since that is usually the 1st thing to go south.
great helpful video. no substitute for good hammer work.
That Loctite 638 trick for the bearings... do you have any trouble pulling the drum & hub assemblies back off for service with that Loctite adhereing the inner bearing races to the spindle surface? Sounds like a smart trick to avoid further fretting of the spindle, but I was wondering does it make it difficult to disassemble in the future. Excellent video, btw... thank you for posting it.
They won't just slide off but with the low strength a few taps with the hammer and they come off. Of course that messes the seal up but it is unlikely I would have the wheel hub off to that point and not be putting in seals.
@@bcbloc02 Makes sense. Thank you for the reply... I appreciate the help. 👍
I liked that tip about hooking the springs to the shoes after clamping down one side, then aligning end before pulling on the shoes as leverage. I did my 1995 f-350 460v8 and it took me several hours to pull those springs over with pliers.
The brake tools I had were not heavy enough.
Any other axle running tips? I was thinking about changing the rear end in my 1997 F-250 HD to get better gas mileage.
It has something like a 1 ton rear in it from factory. 5.8L gas with E4OD heavy duty rebuild and towing shift kit.
Good tips, thanks for the video.
Nice stuff! Ready for Muroc with the 3.07............
Should be able to cruise 70mph at 1800rpm will be nice. Governed speed should be about 115 after the swap so probably not land speed ready. lol
The adjuster levers (although they say R and L) are mislabeled and so you have them backwards. If you look at your lever you’ll see that the part that touches the teeth on the adjuster is rounded. The other side of the lever has a nice, crisp edge to bite into the teeth on the adjuster. So, you’ll have to swap your levers from right to left and left to right.
Well they have been about 40000miles now like that so I guess I can fix it in another 40K when it will likely need some new shoes.
Hello Brian..!!!
Glad it's you and not me, looks like it might be a little harder than a brake job on a 60 John Deere. (;
Enjoyed....in my early 20's, I got stuck with the brake jobs daily on police cars....I hate doing brakes.....LOL
In my 20's I only saw cop cars in my rear view.:-0
I had M.P.'s to deal with then and I've got one of the old metal anti-seize cans. At least 20+ years. Just like Brylcreem.
I bet you tore the rear view mirror off.... "What isa behinda me, doesa notta madder" - Cannonball run for those younger folks :)
Like the old song said 'You might outrun my old Chevrolet but you won't outrun my old 2-way'.
Have to say I absolutely hated the bottle cap lug bolt set up on these truck, I had constant vibration from my old B350 cummins.
Centering the coined wheels is certainly a challenge. I prefer hub centric to stud centric but it is what it is. I have considered machining a pilot to add to center the wheels but with using acorn nuts to line the wheels up getting them centered isn't a terrible job just takes another step.
Looks like Bailey has everything under control.
Been there done that on a 1 ton Dodge with crew cab. Interesting though, Greg.
Great Video Brian, did you ever consider a rear disc conversion.
I can lock the wheels up with the existing brakes so I don’t see anything to be gained changing them.
@@bcbloc02 Thanks Brian, that makes sense. Sometimes a guy watches too many of the wrong Utube videos, I have drums on my 93 dodge diesel.
you kept calling the wheel cylinder master or slave cylinder , like fingers on a chalk board to me
Brian, are you applying rust converter to the rusted areas as you work through the project? I see it progressively turning black through the video.
Tailgate surface plate and pine parallel does the job
Perfect tools for the big grey shop!
I'm worried Bailey is not getting enough rest.
He sleeps 20hr a day I don't know how he could get much more! lol
Humor son, humor.
Jim Harris yeah poor bailey looked tired
Naps in between.
He just has that southern look, laid back. It's all good.
Thank you for video
Is this differential have cone shaped parts that keep the hub in place? I had to replace my 4:10 ratio on my old 1964 Ford F250. I found a local junk yard that had a newer differential that I believe is a 3:73 ratio. What a difference it makes on the highway. Now I need to go through the brakes. The bub axle with a few pops of a hammer came out of the drivers side but the hub on the passenger side will not pop out no matter how many times we have popped it. Any suggestions? We have even sprayed penetrating oil and it still is not popping out.
The earlier Dana 70s with the studs for the axle flange do have cones around the studs. Usually a little heat from a torch will get them to release if they are stuck. A lot of times excess silicone fouls them up and once you burn the silicone off they will come loose.
I would have greased those bearings before installing them, and why not use the new star adjuster, when you talked about how worn and beat up the old one was. And you said before that, it's best to use all new brake hardware for obvious reasons. So much lol going on here.
Is there a factory version which runs two hydraulic brake cylinders? I have that on a Ford rear end. It works very well especially with the vacuum assist.
Not on any Dana axles I have seen. I think they all were setup to rely upon the drum brake self energizing action where the force of braking from the 1st pad adds to the rear pad.
Thanks for sharing
Rockauto parts i order a lot from them about to do this on my 1985 iv got some vibrashin at 55 with the brakes holdin on day i thank it screwed one of my drums up because ever since thin it shacks
Everybody knows the short shoe goes in the front
I always pack those with grease even though its a full float
Brian,the short friction material shoe always goes in the front......
Yeah I know the thick shoe goes to the rear I was just commenting that if you didn't know that not having them labeled would be problematic since even if you knew that part you still have to decide which pair goes on what side since they are mirror images.Lucky for me I have done plenty of this stuff so no problems here. :-)
For anyone that doesn't know, the LENGTH of the friction material is what dictates which shoe goes where. The shortest length goes forward, the longest goes in rear position.
It has been a few years, but I'm 99% sure that on my GM 14 bolt axle both shoes were exactly the same. Although, I do know for a fact that when you get into bigger air brake stuff that both shoes are exactly the same for the majority of applications but there are special instances.
Hello from Australia. About to do my Dana 70 under a '76 F350. Two questions if you don't mind: 1. What do you call the style/brand of dial gauge you have there? I've never seen one on an arm like that. 2. Is there an outer seal on these diffs? When I pulled the axle out of mine there was a terribly chewed up looking seal on the outside of the outer locking nut - it seemed to be just a rubber/fibre ring - but it's so buggered it's hard to tell what it is supposed to be. Thanks, Brad.
1. That is a Noga arm. They come from Israel and are nice single point adjustment indicator stands. 2. The only seals are on the inside of the wheel hubs. The outsides are sealed with a gasket where the full floating axles bolt up to the hubs.
The bearings don't get packed.. correct?? I was told the diff oil lubes them????
Yes. That is the reason you fill the diff then jack up each side individually about a foot so it can fill the hubs with oil
@@bcbloc02 okay just checking to make sure what I was told was correct because what I saw in this video was that he packed his bearings.. it looked like it
Tostitos and never-seize, never tried that before, sounds tasty though. Always god videos.......
It does really add flavor. :-)
Where do you get the fluid film? I found one can of it at tractor supply and they didn't have any more. Best rust preventive I have found.
We sell it at the Deere dealership I work at so I get it for cost. :-) Try your local John Deere dealer. I really like it for rust protection I use it to spray all my machine ways that might have sweating and rusting issues. The Lanolin won't bother your skin either. :-)
ronald davis
Look on amazon that's where I got my cans decent price too
You did not show the one thing I needed to see. How did you take the hub from the drum ?
Just the wheel studs hold the drum on the hub. Drive the studs out and it comes right off.
I have a dana 80 dual rear end and am wondering if the dana 70 hd brake drum will work for the dana 80?
No they aren’t the same parts
What is the torque spec for that dana 70 axle bearing nut?
Wondering what paint you've used Brian. Might have to paint some parts on the underside of my car this summer and I like the mat finish you're getting there! :-)
John Deere Blitz black paint. We sell a bunch of it to the hot rodders to paint their rat rods with. It is very high quality and tough paint for about half the price of regular automotive paints.
in the UK they specifically make a black paint for this kind of thing, called 'chassis black' it tends to be a bit tougher than regular paint
They use the blitz black paint to paint disk gangs so it is made to take impacts and be tough too.
Sounds like some every though paint! Thanks Brian! :-)
Do they make a disc brake conversion kit for these Dana 70's ? Had you looked into those ? Just a thought. They used to have them for the rear Dana 60's. At one time I thought of converting my rear Dana 60 in my '72 Chevy 4x4.
There probably are disk conversions, the drums work well enough for me though and the drum shoes last a lot more miles than disks.
A total overhaul on the axle. I would not have known to look for a brake drum not centered. I have not come across that in cars as far as I know.
Next time check the run out on a set you likely will be surprised. Of course the smaller the stuff the less it matters a 10lb drum won't cause near the vibration a 50lb one will.
bcbloc02 If possible, it's best to always run a true up cut in the drum or rotor even if they are new, for this very reason of runout. Any time the bearing race's are replaced they will also be out of concentrisity some. We always ran a tru up cut but it does make it easier having a brake lathe.
Brian you ever think of going with disk brakes on the rear. That will give you stopping power?
Manufactures have conned the public into thinking disk brakes provide better braking power. They are cheaper to manufacture and install on the assembly line. Weigh less which is only a pro to the manufacture to improve MPG numbers. They generally require less maintenance, but they do not provide better braking power. Self energizing drum brakes are every efficient brake technology. There is a reason semi's run them. There is a reason the service brake on disk brake equipped vehicles are drums.
Disks big advantage is in fade resistance. I don't have a lot of mountains here so I don't ever see situations where brake fade occurs. Drums offer superior wear life and is why they still dominate the semi truck market. In order to get similar stopping power to the big drums you need bigger wheels to fit the big calipers or you have to mount multiple calipers to get enough friction area. It is all a trade off. When the brakes are right they work well as is.
Where I live there are quite a few hills and steep inclines just forgot where you live. I was going down one hauling a fair sized load I got brake fade not a nice feeling.
Y Pop You'll want to learn how to do brake jabbing on downgrades. If your safe base control speed is 45mph, let the rig speed up to 50 with no brakes then jab the brakes aggressively for no more than 5 seconds to get the speed back to 45 then repeat the cycle. Don't ever ride the brakes for long stretches to maintain speed. That's when the heat builds and fade takes over. If it takes longer than a five second jab to get back to 45 then 45 is too fast for a base speed. Try it at 40 & jab at 45 or 35 & 40. Until the jabs are less than 5 seconds. The key is starting out in control. Most people go like crazy then try to over react when things get out of control. To be fair, unless you go through truck driving school or have a knowledgeable teacher in your life, these advanced skills are not taught when getting a base drivers license even though that's all that is required to drive some pretty heavy and large cube trucks. What are some of the most dangerous people on the road? People driving moving trucks. Usually their first time with that much weight and that large of rig.
Thank You Wish I knew that 30 years ago! They changed the grade and took out the stop light at the bottom of the grade too so not as bad now! Just a one time thing moving a machine on a trailer did stop for the light though!
Baily was distraught in the grass behind you because Something is getting longer legged than he is. You could tell by the non-wag off. That woodpecker was here this morning hammering on the gutter. I just rewound a Briggs recoil spring. Enough stress. Be calm and maybe after taking Baily a ride he'll forgive you.
I probably will have to take him for a ride to get something to eat to achieve full forgiveness.
With the new rear end installed and a hi-$$$ place. A fast food deal won't cut it. Not this time. Concrete pouring weather coming shortly!!!
I have a hub that will not hold 3 of the 8 studs. Finding a replacement hub is near impossible for 1975 F350. I was thinking of pulling the hub, and filling the bad slots with weld, and re-drilling the slot to spec. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
i would try a helicoil insert first.
@@bcbloc02 i went ahead and welded the studs to the front of the hub since the hubs are for coined rims and I'm switching to non-coined rims. I tested them with a lug and washer before installing the hub back on the wheel. Just waiting on one more brake hose to bleed the brakes, and then put the wheels back on. Wish me luck.
thanks for the video how did that brand of shoes work out. and are dully shoes and regular drum shoes the same . its my first job on a dully.
They managed to stop it when I hauled the drill so I guess they are doing ok. :-)
Thanks good vidios keep it up
You must be getting the truck ready for a long haul
900mi trip pulling 30,000lb for 450 of it and I would prefer everything went smooth.
hibrian I would love to know what size axle nut socket you are using thanks for your time
2-9/16
Hello Brian..!!
What would be the torque specs, for the spindle nuts???
(inside and outside after the lock washer..)
.003” end play on inner nut then locked tight with outer nut.80 ftlb
@@bcbloc02 aye aye sir !!! Tomorrow will be the fixing day.
Thanks a lot.. 🤙🤙🤙
is it harmful to bearings to smack the drum like that? i want to try this centering method after doing my brakes and using factory drums with only 60k miles...from the desert so rust is not bad and minimal wear.
As long as the bearings are in full contact it shouldn't hurt them. i figure the pounding the road gives them is a lot worse than anything I can do with a hammer.
Hey thank you so much for taking the time to answer my question! I like your work style and your attention to detail. Your videos are very helpful! Much appreciated!
Now that’s what I call tailgating
Hi I have a quick question if you can help me with it I am replacing the Right parking brake cable and I have an extended cab dually. are all the cables the same Duly or not.And what brand do you recommend. I have a 92 dodge d250 extended cab dually
Yes only right and left cables on dana 70 dodge dually doesn't matter. There is an intermediate cable that changes depending on wheelbase. I used Wagner cables on mine.
Thanks i bought a right cable on amazon ac delco. And it was to long so im going to return and get a wagner
What size nut is that once take axles out to pull drum off got a 2 9/16 socket and want fit
It takes a special thin wall rounded corner 2-9/16 socket a standard chrome won't fit in the hub.
How many inches of the Dana 70 axle and I'm gonna identify it
There are many different configurations of Dana 70 axles. Assuming no one has lost the tag there is a build of materials number on a tag under one of the cover bolts. You can use that to see what parts an axle was built from
How much time does it take to replace bearings,races, and seals on one of those axles and can just about anyone do it?
If everything comes apart good I would say it could reasonably be done in 4 hours if someone has basic mechanical knowledge.
How tight do you get that inner nut? Is there a standard lbs?
.003” end clearance
Brian is there a 4x4 conversion on that trucks future?
Not likely. Especially since I just did the front end rebuild and especially since finding a Dana61 dually axle with 3.07's would be really hard to find.
You sure need you a nice big shop so you don't have to work off your tailgate. :-)
I agree! Wish I had rebuilt one. :-) I know one thing for sure having tools in 2 shops sucks, you never have what you need at the right place!
I just took my own Dana 80 apart for restoration. I still wonder, are the bearings supposed to be packed with wheel bearing grease before installation? Wherever I ask, I got different answers on different axles. Some say that this wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant regardless of the axle being a full float. Anybody knows? Cheers
Gear oil is the lubricant in a full float. You don't need to grease it. You just put it together fill the diff, jack up one side as high as you can let it sit so the oil can fill the hubs then let down level, top up oil, jack up the other side let it sit then let down level and top off again. I believe I went over that in the video but can't remember now as it was long ago.
bcbloc02
Perfect answer! Thank you very much. I also saw when you tightened the wheel bearing center nut, but you didn’t talk about any tightening torque. Also here, I hear different stories. Just tighten up ‘til the play is gone and then good to go?
ISABELLAKLINIKEN Should be tighten till snug then back off at least one tab on new bearings, maybe more on old bearings. The hub should have end play of about .001-.003" to allow oil clerance between the bearings. If you run them tight they will overheat and fail.
bcbloc02 Thanks.
Back off at least one tab you say. How much does this mean? Tab is a word I honestly never heard (Swedish guy).
It’s really difficult to feel, or know when it’s correct since the drum is spinning with a great ease even if the nut is tightened really hard. Thanks again for your answers.
ISABELLAKLINIKEN I was referring to the points(tabs) on the star like locking device that keeps the nut from backing off. Use dial indicator on axle spindle to hub and adjust till you can pull/push it in and out and read .001--.003" of movement.
I just spent 400 on parts just for complete brake job.
Nice job but lets get that concert poured.
This drill deal has altered the schedule by making other projects take priority over the barn. I hope to be able to get back on it soon. The fact we had somebody quit at work and I am working extra hours to cover hasn't helped with getting things done.
where did you get your brake drums?
Rock auto
Aren’t those inboard drums fun? They’re even more fun on a semi when they weigh 200lbs lol.
Hi I have a problem I change my axle seal and I greased up my bearing I put a retaining compound on the axle shaft left like that for 3 days or so while I want to get a hammer gun to punch back in the leg nut bolts and n I struggled to take off the drum and my bearing and seal are stuck on the actual shaft do you know what my problem is I have a 92 Dodge D to Dolly . I was able to take off the drum but the axle shaft got stuck with the bearing and the oil seal.If anybody could help me would be helpful thanks.I did it exactly the same. Im lost. The 1st time I took off the ram and the drum and Axel everything came out fine
Your problem is the bearing retaining compound won't let the bearing slide on the shaft, you will have to heat the bearing inner race a few hundred degrees to loosen the compound before you can remove it then you can pull the seal off. The seal will likely not be any good anymore so better replace it and depending on how much beating on it you did to get the drum off you may want to replace the bearing too, a few bucks spent now could save tons in the future. Never put loctite or retaining compound on anything until you are ready to not be moving, adjusting or taking apart again.
Thanks will do never use the lock tight till I see that on the channel I'll have to heat it up and pull it off thanks
Have used the lock tight just never on an axle shaft well yet again I've never had a Dolly thanks
Use low strength threadlocker on a bearing you might want to take off again, bearing retaining compound really holds tight if that is what you used.
Where are you, dude? Wish you'd work on my truck.
Central Kentucky
bcbloc02 Too bad, man. I'm down in TX. It's so hard to find someone with the technical skills, mind, and care to do something well.
Not as hard on your rotors and drums when you use softer brake pads/shoes
no help for me. you already have everything apart. thats what I need to know.. how to get the break drum off. the book was no help as it dont cover dualies
Well its the reverse of how it went together. You have to pull the axles, remove the locking tab for the bearing retaining nut, then take the bearing retaining nut loose and slide the hub/drum assembly off with the bearings in it.
Brian is there an email I can reach you at.
I am looking to have a couple parts machined up
My email is listed on my about page here but it is also simply my user name at yahoo dot com. I try not to put it in the comments section as bots tend to pick it up form there and I get a bunch of spam. If that doesn't work for ya send me a message here and i will send you my email.
Did you send an email? If so I haven't seen it.
Is your dog talking to you Gomer?!
Watching your back as you used the spring pliers didn't help me. I'm not having any success using them & nobody has a video that actually shows that.
If you are talking about brake spring pliers I didn’t use any. If you rewatch you will see I hooked the springs to the shoes then pulled the shoe on to stretch the spring. I find it easier to have to fuss with getting the washer on the retaining spring and pin than to try to get that spring hooked back in behind everything.
I cringe at the fact that he assembled everything dry... PLEASE LUBE!!! All that work may need to be done if you cook the bearings!!!
Both ends were jacked up on installation to allow the hubs to fill with gear oil. It has been 40k miles and hauled several loAds of 30000lbs plus gross so I think I did ok.
Mr Brian you can no longer use the words master and slave that is not political correct they are now called parent and child as i found out installing some link ups on a computer system. Its a new world
Sorry my PC meter has long been busted if I need to I can switch it to Boss and Bit%h. Maybe that will help with sensitivity. :-)
thats a good one
Political correctness is just "left wing" censorship. Has anyone noticed that most people complaining are not offended themselves but are afraid that someone else might be. I say "Fcuk 'em".
I had a Dana 70 I couldn't give it away it ended up in the scrap pile.