Just found your channel and already addicted… 3/8” plywood core and first 4 or 8 and then 18 oz glass? Is that right… ? Is two layer enough? How many layers off glass and types for example a Richard Woods or Wharram design recommend typically? Thanks
Thanks! Mainly 1 layer of 18 oz on most of the boat, doubled up in some places. I think a wharram of similar size calls for 5mm ply. I think usually just glasses on one side. The real strength comes from the sandwich effect when glassing both sides. But thickness and strength needed is mainly determined by the boat design. The less bulkheads the thicker the material. If it's supported in many areas you can get away with a thinner material. Take a skin on frame canoe for example
I would DOUBLE your transome thickness, to carry the stress of the rudders, I also think you could be using bidirectional cloth as it is stronger , . I will be watching your build with interest, I built my first boat 39 years ago, a JARCAT 5M,.
I will be adding thickness, I want to add more glass to cover screws after attaching. And the bi directional is expensive, I am doing this on a budget. And am confident it will be plenty strong. Thanks for watching and following along!!!
@davidmccauley7068 the screws can be removed they won't add any more strength to the repair, a doubler inside will do far more. On the other hull and anywhere else do the stringers first, that gives you more glue area and fastener locations. Then do the skin
@davidmccauley7068 , hull ply was 3.6mm/ 4mm, and bridge deck was 12mm. Glass was 8 Oz on the hulls to 100mm above the chines, and over the bridge deck underneath, and in the cockpit. They are very lightly built, I built mine in 1984, sold it 14 months later after getting married. I believe it is still sailing , and it was the first of several boats I built.
@davidmccauley7068 I can never understand people who didn't use a proper plan to end up with a half decent result. You've got some ugly dog legs there.
No, unfortunately, I built the J5, then 5,5meter with an inboard diesel, then I had a 12ft fishing Boat designed by a marine designer, and lastly, I built a power /sail canoe for a friend.
As you progress, please keep cat series in a playlist. I love your video and work!
Will do. Thank you!
That was absolutely insane. That’s a HOT VIDEO
Just found your channel and already addicted… 3/8” plywood core and first 4 or 8 and then 18 oz glass? Is that right… ? Is two layer enough? How many layers off glass and types for example a Richard Woods or Wharram design recommend typically? Thanks
Thanks! Mainly 1 layer of 18 oz on most of the boat, doubled up in some places. I think a wharram of similar size calls for 5mm ply. I think usually just glasses on one side. The real strength comes from the sandwich effect when glassing both sides. But thickness and strength needed is mainly determined by the boat design. The less bulkheads the thicker the material. If it's supported in many areas you can get away with a thinner material. Take a skin on frame canoe for example
@@davidmccauley7068 thank you very much for taking the time to reply. Can’t wait until you upload the next video! Very informative
Use a 6 in roller to lay the epoxy down then squeegee it.
I would DOUBLE your transome thickness, to carry the stress of the rudders, I also think you could be using bidirectional cloth as it is stronger , .
I will be watching your build with interest, I built my first boat 39 years ago, a JARCAT 5M,.
I will be adding thickness, I want to add more glass to cover screws after attaching. And the bi directional is expensive, I am doing this on a budget. And am confident it will be plenty strong. Thanks for watching and following along!!!
@davidmccauley7068 the screws can be removed they won't add any more strength to the repair, a doubler inside will do far more.
On the other hull and anywhere else do the stringers first, that gives you more glue area and fastener locations. Then do the skin
What thickness of ply did you use on your jarcat? And what glass schedule?
@davidmccauley7068 , hull ply was 3.6mm/ 4mm, and bridge deck was 12mm.
Glass was 8 Oz on the hulls to 100mm above the chines, and over the bridge deck underneath, and in the cockpit.
They are very lightly built, I built mine in 1984, sold it 14 months later after getting married. I believe it is still sailing , and it was the first of several boats I built.
Thanks! Still own any of them?
What design is it ?
It's something I designed
@@davidmccauley7068It says cruising in the title so I assumed sailing but that’s a powerboat hull yes ?
@@redreuben5260 no it it's going to be a sailboat catamaran ketch rigged
@@davidmccauley7068 😯🤔
Home Depot cat!
Lowes!
@davidmccauley7068 I can never understand people who didn't use a proper plan to end up with a half decent result.
You've got some ugly dog legs there.
No, unfortunately, I built the J5, then 5,5meter with an inboard diesel, then I had a 12ft fishing
Boat designed by a marine designer, and lastly, I built a power /sail canoe for a friend.
6:08 😨