@davidmccauley7068 I can never understand people who didn't use a proper plan to end up with a half decent result. You've got some ugly dog legs there.
I would DOUBLE your transome thickness, to carry the stress of the rudders, I also think you could be using bidirectional cloth as it is stronger , . I will be watching your build with interest, I built my first boat 39 years ago, a JARCAT 5M,.
I will be adding thickness, I want to add more glass to cover screws after attaching. And the bi directional is expensive, I am doing this on a budget. And am confident it will be plenty strong. Thanks for watching and following along!!!
@davidmccauley7068 the screws can be removed they won't add any more strength to the repair, a doubler inside will do far more. On the other hull and anywhere else do the stringers first, that gives you more glue area and fastener locations. Then do the skin
@davidmccauley7068 , hull ply was 3.6mm/ 4mm, and bridge deck was 12mm. Glass was 8 Oz on the hulls to 100mm above the chines, and over the bridge deck underneath, and in the cockpit. They are very lightly built, I built mine in 1984, sold it 14 months later after getting married. I believe it is still sailing , and it was the first of several boats I built.
No, unfortunately, I built the J5, then 5,5meter with an inboard diesel, then I had a 12ft fishing Boat designed by a marine designer, and lastly, I built a power /sail canoe for a friend.
That was absolutely insane. That’s a HOT VIDEO
Use a 6 in roller to lay the epoxy down then squeegee it.
As you progress, please keep cat series in a playlist. I love your video and work!
Will do. Thank you!
Home Depot cat!
Lowes!
@davidmccauley7068 I can never understand people who didn't use a proper plan to end up with a half decent result.
You've got some ugly dog legs there.
I would DOUBLE your transome thickness, to carry the stress of the rudders, I also think you could be using bidirectional cloth as it is stronger , .
I will be watching your build with interest, I built my first boat 39 years ago, a JARCAT 5M,.
I will be adding thickness, I want to add more glass to cover screws after attaching. And the bi directional is expensive, I am doing this on a budget. And am confident it will be plenty strong. Thanks for watching and following along!!!
@davidmccauley7068 the screws can be removed they won't add any more strength to the repair, a doubler inside will do far more.
On the other hull and anywhere else do the stringers first, that gives you more glue area and fastener locations. Then do the skin
What thickness of ply did you use on your jarcat? And what glass schedule?
@davidmccauley7068 , hull ply was 3.6mm/ 4mm, and bridge deck was 12mm.
Glass was 8 Oz on the hulls to 100mm above the chines, and over the bridge deck underneath, and in the cockpit.
They are very lightly built, I built mine in 1984, sold it 14 months later after getting married. I believe it is still sailing , and it was the first of several boats I built.
Thanks! Still own any of them?
No, unfortunately, I built the J5, then 5,5meter with an inboard diesel, then I had a 12ft fishing
Boat designed by a marine designer, and lastly, I built a power /sail canoe for a friend.
6:08 😨