Here is some quick updates from reading the comments. The V50 and V51 are not being produced anymore, it is strictly the V52 Series. It is now available in a Satin, Semi Gloss and Gloss. The V52 has become more user friendly and has taken away the issues of failing on cabinets due to hand oils. If you have not tried the V52, it is worth the try. Many comments are from the previous versions and would be beneficial to try it again. There are thousands of gallons applied to exterior fiberglass posts that have excellent adhesion and working out better than products twice the cost.
Used this paint on a desk, I refurbished. It dries fast and lays down pretty good (with the help of floetrol) I shot it thin downed about 10% with an HVLP gun. One thing I found that lowering the air pressure to about 35-40 PSI and shooting with a 1.7mm tip gave me better results. Its not as tin as people seem to claim it is (at least the V50, V20 is getting harder and harder to find). I still think the SW Emerald Urethane goes on much easier than this.
It sounds like it finishes out similar to SW Emerald UTE. UTE semi gloss, finishes like a satin, and the gloss like a semi-gloss. This sounds like a bit more durable for cabinetry. Looking forward to testing it.
I am a professional cabinet and trim finisher. My company used breakthrough almost exclusively for several years. In recent times we have chosen to move away from it for one specific reason. It can't handle hand oils in areas that are frequently touched. These areas will eventually become sticky, attracting dirt and eventually completely breaking down. It is my understanding that it has been recently reformulated to resist hand oils more effectively, however I am reluctant to use it anymore because of the problems that I have witnessed both in my own home as well as a few jobs that we completed. I am looking to move toward command or scuff x in the future. How do these products hold up in high frequency touch areas? Great content and thanks!
Hey, thanks! I've consulted with the rest of the Paint People and the consensus is Scuff X over Command because it dries harder. But that Command will work too. Hope that helps!
Use ML Campbell for smooth doors. It’s a great primer and topcoated Scuff x if you deal with grained doors roll with kilz, then spray with ML Campbell primer then topcoat with scuff x, I do 3 to 4 kitchens a week using this method it has never let me down
Ok so I Bought two one gallon of ppg Break though satin, my question is "can I paint the walls in my room with it"? And will it come out nice with out any problem??
Hey do you have a recommendation for a very tiny budget? Husband and I bought an old tiny house and will be painting every room. Two dark orangey red rooms. Need a primer strong enough to cover any suggestions?
If I buy the high quality breakthrough with 50 lable does this mean I can prime my hard wood floors without sanding finish off? One of my hard woods has a factory finish that has worn off in areas. My other floor has a thinning coat of polyurethane...would you sand anyway? I do have rescue dogs ( two ) and want hard durability and by the way, thank you so much for listening and answering!!! THANK YOU!
Hi Folks, we live in Singapore, tropic central. We are wanting to paint the timber floorboards. Would you recommend this paint or do you have another preference? Obviously the harder wearing, the better. Thanks in advance. Best regards Andrew
The touch and cure times are appealing. I can still get 250 VOC. Is this shiny like the old oil base alkyds? If not, how could I make it shiny. Also, how long to wait for tape removal? What about tape removal and second coat? Thanks for all your advice.
We used this paint at the hotel I work at for the entry doors. No matter what roller sleeves we used they turned out like shit. Unfortunately we couldn't spray. Also durability was so so. Thanks for the review regardless👍
Ive had a similar issue with other products (not PPG). Try using a paint conditioner like M1 or similar. They make an oil and latex additive, I've found this helps with the paint laying down.
Have you tried the Clear Breakthrough tho!? trying to figure out if it is non-yellowing as we are needing a protective coating over a painted sidewalk mural
I have this paint. I am spraying with a HVLP gun. I need to put a clear over it that is UV as these are going to be signs in Florida which get sand and salt constantly. What product can I use as a clear to go over the Breakthrough that is non-yellowing. It has to stay clear.
Would this product work well for CBX 3/4" plywood we will be using for our community theater stage floor? We are replacing all flooring so starting new with 34 boards. Should we prime first? Do you recommend a different brand/type. Would prefer a paint we can spray on vs. rolling all but whatever will hold up to dancing, moving furniture and being stored in a barn (dry at least) without having to repaint every year.
This was suggested to me that this would work on my RV fiberglass, it could be rolled on and later buffed out for smoothness.... the question is how well would it hold up to the sun..... how long would it take for ultraviolet light to break it down.... has anyone tried it with this product?
Hey anyone and everyone im in the process of painting my kitchen cabinets with 250ppg breakthrough satin.. Sanded and primed with zinsser coverstain first. This stuff is being very very difficult to paint. Im using a foam roller everywhere I can but the areas that i have to cut in with a brush they are leaving brush marks no matter what!! Thick, thin, fast, slow, brush type, angles, ive tried all. And even with the foam rollers its hard not to leave a line of paint behind where the edge of the roller last was. I wish I had known about this stuff being primarily sprayed on. Any advice is much appreciated
With my business, I use an airless sprayer on the doors and fronts for a better finish, hand paint the product onto the cabinet boxes. When hand painting with this product I have to move pretty quick, use a soft bristle brush, and a flock foam roller. The tiny hairs on the flock foam helps the paint lay out without the brush strokes, roller lines, and bubbling much easier than the standard foam in my experience.
The gallon I got is absolutely positively unusable. Incredibly thin, doesn't cover, zero open time, horrible brush marks/roping, and bubbles everywhere. We know how to paint, we tried various brushes, rollers, and techniques, - not working for us no matter what we do. - I'm afraid to try another gallon. Next. Lots of people saying that some of the popular SW and BM products are not working well for them anymore either. I don't have time to wait 2 days for each coat of paint to dry and 2 months to properly cure, so I'm not messing with Advance, or oil. I can get latex to lay down well, but I don't think it's appropriately durable for trim and cabinets. I'm willing to pay more for something that will lay down properly, dry in a reasonable time, and cure hard enough to last on cabinets. Anybody have any suggestions what to try next, that will get the job done?
Could be next curb address marker paint alternative, hmm. If it has reasonable mildew, wet concrete resistance. Adhesive Stenciling will testing that pulling force the following day.
Love your channel! Question....if I intend to use a sprayer to paint my cabinets, which would have the most durable finish? Benjamin Moore Scuff X, Command or PPG Breathrough? If you ever get bored that would be a great video, a side by side visual comparison of which finish holds up the best to washing/scratching/children
I want to paint some laminate wood floors that are very dark. Do I need to prime before applying the PPG Breakthrough? And should I be sanding them first. is it necessary? Thanks Guys.
Hello James and the team members, can I use this paint over my laminate countertop? If yes what sheen should I use, and how to seal it? Thank you 🙏🏻 for all the great info!
Hi there! I grabbed this from the PPG Break-Through data sheet, so hope it helps. "Laminate: No primer needed; sanding or scuffing the surface is recommended. Topcoat should be spot applied as directed, allowed to cure overnight, then evaluated for adhesion. If adhesion is good, the application may proceed." As for finishes, I think you'd be fine with either or. Typically, glossier finishes will have a bit more washability but the satin finish should still hold up great and give your countertop a more muted sheen.
PPG has modified the Breakthrough product to meet current VOC requirements, so it doesn't perform as good as it used to. Another option would be Cabinet Coat by Benjamin Moore. A solvent based primer although not necessary would be recommended. Cheers!
I have a wood floor that I used a Sherwin-Williams product on a year ago called treadplex. It is starting to wear off and you can see the primer and in some areas you can see the wood floor. Would break through help me seal this floor up to wear and tear
Just an FYI, I used a porch and patio paint on my wood floors 4 years ago. I have moved furniture over it during the years and to date, very little scraping of paint. I drug a bookcase across it and it didn't take up the paint or cause any issues. Just wanted to share!
@@vegascece We are looking for a paint for our mud room/laundry room floor which is a hardwood. If you don't mind, what brand of porch and patio paint did you use?
@@laurab5013 I used Behr Porch & Patio paint. I did light sanding ahead of time since the flippers had painted the walls without any covering and there were puddles of paint in some areas. I then used a water based primer (I believe it was Zinsser). 2 coats of paint and it's been great! Wishing you a great out come!!
Hey Joe! It works on both horizontal and vertical surfaces, so although it’s wasn’t designed for floors specifically, it should work nicely. Just be sure that you’re prepping properly with a primer if needed. The paint won’t stop tannin bleed on bare wood!
I am wandering if the Menards Pittsburgh Fast Dry brand is almost the same formulation. Home Depot just started to carry the Breakthrough, but I could only get it in Qt size. Looking at the TDS sheets between the two the solids are only different by 1%. Dry times, film thickness and thinning are all the same. Might be something to consider if Menards is closer like it is for me.
it's true , the low VOC version is crap , you want the V50 , period ..... and if you want semi-gloss , just mix satin + gloss , gallon for gallon , and voila , semi-gloss paint ..... But yes , the fast drying is great , but doesn't level out as well , roller gets orange peel , brush gets roping , and spray can feel gritty to the touch ..... Oh and the last "con" , the price has gone nuts .... I used to pay $55 a gallon , now it's $73 .... So it's starting to get "not worth it" .... 55 was high enough , but now 73 ???? That's absurd ..... and so is an $8 2x4x8 !!!!!! What in the hell is going on in this damn country ????? Prices are obscene
I agree with everything you've said. I was getting for $45 the i went and bought more and they quoted $59. So i asked to to speak with my rep. Called back and it went up to $65. This is the only product i by from Ppg .The only others i would consider is advantage for trim permanizer. Im seeing this company to downhill. The last batch i got must have been the low Voc big difference. .
Was wondering, have you compared PPG breakthrough to Benjamin Moore's Cabinet Coate? Also, is there any problem with adding and mixing the same amount of gloss with the satin if you want a little bit shinier finish than the pearl finish with the PPG? And my third question is I normally use the Zinsser Bin Primer with shellac. Is there a better primer that I could use without having to go through the problem of cleaning everything out with denatured alcohol and cleaning out my sprayer with it? I love the adhesion and so I'm especially interested in a primer that has really good adhesion when I do my cabinets.
Hi Wayne, you can mix sheens to get a different sheen, yes It would be a one time custom sheen. Really can’t duplicate unless using super precise measurements. Stix is the best for adhesion and it’s water clean up, where bin primer is great for stain blocking. breakthrough vs cabinet coat, both are great products. Slight variations in drying times depending on how fast you need to re-coat.
I have both oak wood cabinets and laminate and oak wood frames so what would be the best paint for this please help I was going to get the breakthough paint for this ??? We have a PPG store close by how do I get the good formula?
@@thepaintpeople What primer would you recommend? I am thinking about doing my backsplash in the kitchen. Do I need to sand the glossy (4") tile down first?
The paint sucks. I sprayed cabinets with a 210 Graco fine tip. And it always runs. It doesn't matter how fast I go or how low the pressure is. It runs too much. I prefer the speed hide. Even the emerald from sherwin williams sucks. Don't recommend using these 2 certain paints.
So how about the material that keeps the product from deteriorating? Shouldn't you be also be talking about what is happening to fish because of waterbased products? Loss of fertility, weird growths on fish... PPG, AKZO, Hempel... all paint manufacturers know the effects of their products on the environment. No information regarding the cleaning of application materials is given. Coatings and paints should be applied as a high solid and only by professionals. Waterborne paints need fungicides... would you drink this? It's a crying shame!
This paint is thé Worst! Roping, to thin which causes dripping, NOT self-leveling, just terrible product!! I have used 3 different brands on cabinets: #1 is Behr Alkyd Enamel, #2 is Sherwin Williams Emerald, at #100 is PPG Break Through. Waste of money
If it's dripping than you don't possess the skill to apply this paint. If you think this is runny paint than you would shit your pants in a professional paint booth.
@@checkavilatility Perhaps it works well for professional painters and paint sprayers, it's just not user friendly for amateur level painters. PPG is worst paint ever! Meanwhile I tried Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic on baseboards and it came out terrific! Won't buy any other paint than Sherwin Williams, all great user friendly products.
Here is some quick updates from reading the comments. The V50 and V51 are not being produced anymore, it is strictly the V52 Series. It is now available in a Satin, Semi Gloss and Gloss. The V52 has become more user friendly and has taken away the issues of failing on cabinets due to hand oils. If you have not tried the V52, it is worth the try. Many comments are from the previous versions and would be beneficial to try it again. There are thousands of gallons applied to exterior fiberglass posts that have excellent adhesion and working out better than products twice the cost.
Is it easy to brush and roll
Can't find V52 , but at HD they are stopping their V62... They might get another version 🙄.
Used this paint on a desk, I refurbished. It dries fast and lays down pretty good (with the help of floetrol) I shot it thin downed about 10% with an HVLP gun. One thing I found that lowering the air pressure to about 35-40 PSI and shooting with a 1.7mm tip gave me better results. Its not as tin as people seem to claim it is (at least the V50, V20 is getting harder and harder to find). I still think the SW Emerald Urethane goes on much easier than this.
It sounds like it finishes out similar to SW Emerald UTE. UTE semi gloss, finishes like a satin, and the gloss like a semi-gloss. This sounds like a bit more durable for cabinetry. Looking forward to testing it.
Let us know what you think!
I am a professional cabinet and trim finisher. My company used breakthrough almost exclusively for several years. In recent times we have chosen to move away from it for one specific reason. It can't handle hand oils in areas that are frequently touched. These areas will eventually become sticky, attracting dirt and eventually completely breaking down.
It is my understanding that it has been recently reformulated to resist hand oils more effectively, however I am reluctant to use it anymore because of the problems that I have witnessed both in my own home as well as a few jobs that we completed.
I am looking to move toward command or scuff x in the future. How do these products hold up in high frequency touch areas?
Great content and thanks!
Hey, thanks! I've consulted with the rest of the Paint People and the consensus is Scuff X over Command because it dries harder. But that Command will work too. Hope that helps!
@@thepaintpeople what is a good paint brand to use on wood floors? I'm looking to go from light to dark until I'm ready to re-do the floors.
Command all the way !
Use ML Campbell for smooth doors. It’s a great primer and topcoated Scuff x if you deal with grained doors roll with kilz, then spray with ML Campbell primer then topcoat with scuff x, I do 3 to 4 kitchens a week using this method it has never let me down
Ok so I Bought two one gallon of ppg Break though satin, my question is "can I paint the walls in my room with it"? And will it come out nice with out any problem??
Hey do you have a recommendation for a very tiny budget? Husband and I bought an old tiny house and will be painting every room. Two dark orangey red rooms. Need a primer strong enough to cover any suggestions?
If I buy the high quality breakthrough with 50 lable does this mean I can prime my hard wood floors without sanding finish off? One of my hard woods has a factory finish that has worn off in areas. My other floor has a thinning coat of polyurethane...would you sand anyway? I do have rescue dogs ( two ) and want hard durability and by the way, thank you so much for listening and answering!!! THANK YOU!
Hi Folks, we live in Singapore, tropic central. We are wanting to paint the timber floorboards. Would you recommend this paint or do you have another preference? Obviously the harder wearing, the better. Thanks in advance. Best regards Andrew
The touch and cure times are appealing. I can still get 250 VOC. Is this shiny like the old oil base alkyds? If not, how could I make it shiny. Also, how long to wait for tape removal? What about tape removal and second coat? Thanks for all your advice.
We used this paint at the hotel I work at for the entry doors. No matter what roller sleeves we used they turned out like shit. Unfortunately we couldn't spray. Also durability was so so. Thanks for the review regardless👍
Ive had a similar issue with other products (not PPG). Try using a paint conditioner like M1 or similar. They make an oil and latex additive, I've found this helps with the paint laying down.
It's not the paint, it's the painter. It's always easier to blame the product.
Have you tried the Clear Breakthrough tho!? trying to figure out if it is non-yellowing as we are needing a protective coating over a painted sidewalk
mural
Have you used Heirloom Allinonepaint? How does it compare to Breakthrough for cabinets or furniture?
I have this paint. I am spraying with a HVLP gun. I need to put a clear over it that is UV as these are going to be signs in Florida which get sand and salt constantly. What product can I use as a clear to go over the Breakthrough that is non-yellowing. It has to stay clear.
Would this product work well for CBX 3/4" plywood we will be using for our community theater stage floor? We are replacing all flooring so starting new with 34 boards. Should we prime first? Do you recommend a different brand/type. Would prefer a paint we can spray on vs. rolling all but whatever will hold up to dancing, moving furniture and being stored in a barn (dry at least) without having to repaint every year.
This was suggested to me that this would work on my RV fiberglass, it could be rolled on and later buffed out for smoothness.... the question is how well would it hold up to the sun..... how long would it take for ultraviolet light to break it down.... has anyone tried it with this product?
Hey anyone and everyone im in the process of painting my kitchen cabinets with 250ppg breakthrough satin.. Sanded and primed with zinsser coverstain first. This stuff is being very very difficult to paint. Im using a foam roller everywhere I can but the areas that i have to cut in with a brush they are leaving brush marks no matter what!! Thick, thin, fast, slow, brush type, angles, ive tried all. And even with the foam rollers its hard not to leave a line of paint behind where the edge of the roller last was. I wish I had known about this stuff being primarily sprayed on. Any advice is much appreciated
With my business, I use an airless sprayer on the doors and fronts for a better finish, hand paint the product onto the cabinet boxes. When hand painting with this product I have to move pretty quick, use a soft bristle brush, and a flock foam roller. The tiny hairs on the flock foam helps the paint lay out without the brush strokes, roller lines, and bubbling much easier than the standard foam in my experience.
Can Floetrol be added to avoid roping?
The gallon I got is absolutely positively unusable. Incredibly thin, doesn't cover, zero open time, horrible brush marks/roping, and bubbles everywhere. We know how to paint, we tried various brushes, rollers, and techniques, - not working for us no matter what we do. - I'm afraid to try another gallon.
Next.
Lots of people saying that some of the popular SW and BM products are not working well for them anymore either. I don't have time to wait 2 days for each coat of paint to dry and 2 months to properly cure, so I'm not messing with Advance, or oil. I can get latex to lay down well, but I don't think it's appropriately durable for trim and cabinets.
I'm willing to pay more for something that will lay down properly, dry in a reasonable time, and cure hard enough to last on cabinets. Anybody have any suggestions what to try next, that will get the job done?
Thanks for sharing your experience! Good to get feedback.
Could be next curb address marker paint alternative, hmm. If it has reasonable mildew, wet concrete resistance. Adhesive Stenciling will testing that pulling force the following day.
Love your channel! Question....if I intend to use a sprayer to paint my cabinets, which would have the most durable finish? Benjamin Moore Scuff X, Command or PPG Breathrough? If you ever get bored that would be a great video, a side by side visual comparison of which finish holds up the best to washing/scratching/children
I would go with the ScuffX!
We've also started a comparison video of the products you suggested. Coming soon!
@@thepaintpeople thanks so much! That's what I was leaning toward as well. Can't wait for the video :)
I want to paint some laminate wood floors that are very dark. Do I need to prime before applying the PPG Breakthrough? And should I be sanding them first. is it necessary? Thanks Guys.
Did you try and do you recommend? I'm starting my own project soon. What sheen and color did you use?
What prep is necessaty when painting leather?
Hello James and the team members, can I use this paint over my laminate countertop? If yes what sheen should I use, and how to seal it? Thank you 🙏🏻 for all the great info!
Hi there! I grabbed this from the PPG Break-Through data sheet, so hope it helps. "Laminate: No primer needed; sanding or scuffing the surface is recommended. Topcoat should be spot applied as directed, allowed to cure
overnight, then evaluated for adhesion. If adhesion is good, the application may proceed." As for finishes, I think you'd be fine with either or. Typically, glossier finishes will have a bit more washability but the satin finish should still hold up great and give your countertop a more muted sheen.
The Paint People thank you for your speedy reply. I really appreciated it🙏🏻
Best paint since this video to use on melamine kitchen cupboards please?
I have old wood floors, I would like to paint them do I need to seal the paint with anything after using the Ppg paint?
Its isn't necessary to seal the floors after applying Breakthrough.
I painted my floors a couple of years ago and although its not necessary i would add the breakthrough clear . The paint is more pron to attract dirt
Would product be good for kitchen cabinets? And what primer should use to go with this product?
PPG has modified the Breakthrough product to meet current VOC requirements, so it doesn't perform as good as it used to. Another option would be Cabinet Coat by Benjamin Moore. A solvent based primer although not necessary would be recommended. Cheers!
I have a wood floor that I used a Sherwin-Williams product on a year ago called treadplex. It is starting to wear off and you can see the primer and in some areas you can see the wood floor. Would break through help me seal this floor up to wear and tear
Just an FYI, I used a porch and patio paint on my wood floors 4 years ago. I have moved furniture over it during the years and to date, very little scraping of paint. I drug a bookcase across it and it didn't take up the paint or cause any issues. Just wanted to share!
@@vegascece We are looking for a paint for our mud room/laundry room floor which is a hardwood.
If you don't mind, what brand of porch and patio paint did you use?
@@laurab5013 I used Behr Porch & Patio paint. I did light sanding ahead of time since the flippers had painted the walls without any covering and there were puddles of paint in some areas. I then used a water based primer (I believe it was Zinsser). 2 coats of paint and it's been great! Wishing you a great out come!!
@@vegascece Thank you for the good wishes and the detailed info! I really appreciate it!
@@laurab5013 You are so welcomed! Wish I could post pictures..sniff sniff
Would you suggest this to paint over WOOD floors? THANKS for the VERY informative vid!! :)
Hey Joe! It works on both horizontal and vertical surfaces, so although it’s wasn’t designed for floors specifically, it should work nicely. Just be sure that you’re prepping properly with a primer if needed. The paint won’t stop tannin bleed on bare wood!
@@thepaintpeople, THANKS so much for the additional info!! :)
I am wandering if the Menards Pittsburgh Fast Dry brand is almost the same formulation. Home Depot just started to carry the Breakthrough, but I could only get it in Qt size. Looking at the TDS sheets between the two the solids are only different by 1%. Dry times, film thickness and thinning are all the same. Might be something to consider if Menards is closer like it is for me.
Oh nice! Thanks for that hot tip Cold Steel. I'll look into it!
it's true , the low VOC version is crap , you want the V50 , period ..... and if you want semi-gloss , just mix satin + gloss , gallon for gallon , and voila , semi-gloss paint ..... But yes , the fast drying is great , but doesn't level out as well , roller gets orange peel , brush gets roping , and spray can feel gritty to the touch ..... Oh and the last "con" , the price has gone nuts .... I used to pay $55 a gallon , now it's $73 .... So it's starting to get "not worth it" .... 55 was high enough , but now 73 ???? That's absurd ..... and so is an $8 2x4x8 !!!!!! What in the hell is going on in this damn country ????? Prices are obscene
I agree with everything you've said. I was getting for $45 the i went and bought more and they quoted $59. So i asked to to speak with my rep. Called back and it went up to $65. This is the only product i by from Ppg .The only others i would consider is advantage for trim permanizer. Im seeing this company to downhill. The last batch i got must have been the low Voc big difference. .
Was wondering, have you compared PPG breakthrough to Benjamin Moore's Cabinet Coate?
Also, is there any problem with adding and mixing the same amount of gloss with the satin if you want a little bit shinier finish than the pearl finish with the PPG? And my third question is I normally use the Zinsser Bin Primer with shellac. Is there a better primer that I could use without having to go through the problem of cleaning everything out with denatured alcohol and cleaning out my sprayer with it? I love the adhesion and so I'm especially interested in a primer that has really good adhesion when I do my cabinets.
Hi Wayne, you can mix sheens to get a different sheen, yes
It would be a one time custom sheen. Really can’t duplicate unless using super precise measurements.
Stix is the best for adhesion and it’s water clean up, where bin primer is great for stain blocking. breakthrough vs cabinet coat, both are great products. Slight variations in drying times depending on how fast you need to re-coat.
I used this and it muted the color of the paint I coated .. also parts that were exposed to sun faded very quickly
Has anyone used this on a RV? How did it turn out and how has it held up?
How to people like the v50 vs v52 version etc?
Can you get other colors? Besides white?
Yes! You can get this tinted to most colors!
@@thepaintpeople can u get it in black aswell
I have both oak wood cabinets and laminate and oak wood frames so what would be the best paint for this please help I was going to get the breakthough paint for this ??? We have a PPG store close by how do I get the good formula?
Breakthrough is a great option. Apply one coat of Seal Grip primer followed by two coats of Breakthrough.
@@thepaintpeople Your video says it doesn't need primer for laminate. Now I'm confused.
@@blewprent no primer on laminate, but I would recommend it on the wood!
Can I use this on hardwood floors?
Yes you can!
Another great review!!!
There is semi gloss as well
SO interesting!!!! Subscribed
Yahoo!!!! Welcome to the fam! :)
Used to be great, but they reformulated it and became not hand oil resistant, so for cabinets it fails.
PPG stands for what?
The gloss is V72 semi gloss is V62 and of course satin is V52
We tried this on one of our charter boat interiors. It took several coats to hide. Not very durable. We have stopped using it.
Sorry to hear that Micheal but thanks for your feedback!
Can u paint tile with this
Absolutely. Prime first with an all purpose 100% acrylic primer
@@thepaintpeople What primer would you recommend? I am thinking about doing my backsplash in the kitchen. Do I need to sand the glossy (4") tile down first?
The 250 will stick directly to ceramic tile
PPG Gripper, Extreme Bond by SW or Stick Primer by Ben Moore. Any of these is work.
We use it in the pet sanctuary. If anyone would care to help with donations of this paint, we could really use the help.
The paint sucks. I sprayed cabinets with a 210 Graco fine tip. And it always runs. It doesn't matter how fast I go or how low the pressure is. It runs too much. I prefer the speed hide. Even the emerald from sherwin williams sucks. Don't recommend using these 2 certain paints.
Thanks for the feedback. Good to hear various people's experiences with products.
So how about the material that keeps the product from deteriorating? Shouldn't you be also be talking about what is happening to fish because of waterbased products? Loss of fertility, weird growths on fish... PPG, AKZO, Hempel... all paint manufacturers know the effects of their products on the environment. No information regarding the cleaning of application materials is given. Coatings and paints should be applied as a high solid and only by professionals. Waterborne paints need fungicides... would you drink this? It's a crying shame!
This paint is thé Worst! Roping, to thin which causes dripping, NOT self-leveling, just terrible product!! I have used 3 different brands on cabinets: #1 is Behr Alkyd Enamel, #2 is Sherwin Williams Emerald, at #100 is PPG Break Through. Waste of money
If it's dripping than you don't possess the skill to apply this paint. If you think this is runny paint than you would shit your pants in a professional paint booth.
@@checkavilatility Perhaps it works well for professional painters and paint sprayers, it's just not user friendly for amateur level painters. PPG is worst paint ever! Meanwhile I tried Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic on baseboards and it came out terrific! Won't buy any other paint than Sherwin Williams, all great user friendly products.