I thoroughly enjoy knowing that the first time this engine starts up, its going to be in the best conditions it could have (humanly) possibly been. Love your work Eric!
I don't work on cars, I can barely just change my own oil; but Eric's vids are so awesome, I'm just kicking back and watching this series with great enjoyment.
I’m currently swapping this same engine in a 1999, which is slightly different with those valves that run air back into exhaust manifold, otherwise it’s the same. I’ve never done this before,but I’ve done plenty of other work on this truck, but not this much. I’m to the part where I put on the timing cover and oil pan cover. Keeping my fingers crossed I get this done as easily as you make it look. Your videos in this series are freaking awesome! They’ve been super helpful, and I’ve pretty much just followed step by step.
I believe it was intended this way. This is a demo/tutorial video, it makes it easier to distinguish the old parts from the new and see how they all fit together.
The whole time I was watching I was yelling at the video about the oil pan needing to go on last. Then you showed the mistake and didn't try to hide it. So it's cool.
Eric I have been watching the show for some time. love your work. looking at the timing cover and other alloy parts you have reused reminded me of a great idea I picked up from a local mechanic I thought I might pass along. He has repurposed an old domestic dishwasher as a parts cleaner. Using normal dishwasher salts, it does a fantastic job on alloy parts,removing even the burned on oil lacquers in a single wash cycle. Just the ticket for the valve cover and timing covers for a new engine look
Eric is quite correct shared coil Ignition systems do fire a spark to both plugs connected to the coil each time. For modern ignition systems this 'wasted spark' isn't an issue and also helps to keep the plugs from fouling.
This is a great video…I used this for my new engine. One thing is the oil pump. I installed mine and it slid in nice…but no oil when I started priming?
You may have missed a step according to what I have read. Behind the Camshaft gear is a replaceable plug (similar to a freeze plug) it should have a ~3mm hole in the center for oil to be splashed on the cam gear. Sometimes there is no hole, so plug replacement is required. The plugs do not come with holes.
Another reason why the steel gasket is used on the exhaust manifold is that the manifold is cast iron, the mount surface is the aluminum head. With a different metal there is a different temperature coefficient so each part expands and contracts at different rates so each metal part will GRIND the gasket back and forth. The is the purpose the the Multi Layer Steel Gasket (MLS) to more easily allow back and forth motion against the gasket without sheering its structure and tearing it and leaking.
I'm not saying you can't install an interference fit harmonic balancer/crank pulley yoke with the large retainer bolt, but you run the risk of pulling out the threads in the crank in the process, ruining the crank. There is an installer tool available for this procedure. Oil on the threads and under the bolt head (as he did) is a great idea though if you don't have the tool.
Make sure there is no oil on the mating surface of two parts that go together especially if there is no gasket. I have reused metal gaskets and sometimes I spray Copper Coat on them first If i have any concerns about the gasket. I use a stud and nut to install balancer and such, Less chance of messing threads up on crank.
Good detailed video. I don't really miss this engine which I had in my '02 S10. It was reliable although I only put 78k on mine before trading it but it was very weak, noisy and had a very flat power curve with poor low end torque.
Love this series! Would it have been easier to access the electrical connectors and such on the intake side of the engine by removing the intake manifold while the engine was still in the vehicle, and then installing it after the new engine was back in the truck? Seems like that intake and fuel rail comes off fairly easily.
Since that oil pump is driven like old small block Chevys, You could have hooked a drill up to it and primed the system that way. Not sure if that crossed your mind or not.
Good video. I'm not too thrilled at how hard that crank pulley went on though.. I don't envy the next guy to try to take it off. I think i would have spent more time looking for a burr or rust or something that was making it stick so badly.
After some time as a tech you learn the feel of how tight a bolt should be, so rarely an issue. also it takes too much time to use a torque wrench on most things
Eric, what kind of sealer did you use for the water pump? Just black RTV? Or water pump sealer? Thank you for the info, gotta do a leaky water pump this weekend.
You are amazing man. The time you take to set up the camera for each shot is so well planned! I get so pumped when I see a new vid from you!! Keep up yhegreateor
Wire wheeling the pulley stub's sealing surface is a bit of a concern for me. All of those areas that I've seen on cams/cranks look like a mirror-polished/machined surface, so I would be worried that the roughening of that surface (which is great for a flywheel or brake rotor) could chew up the seal and cause a leak later on. Perhaps I'm just making a mountain out of a molehill though.
It's a 'wasted spark' system that allows you to use half as many coils as you have cylinders for a four-stroke engine. Won't work on a 3 or 5 cylinder engine, but for a 4/6/8 etc you can pair your opposite cyilnders' sparks so that you can use less parts.
Eric ,are you sure about how you fit the crank pulley? why would the pulley be secured with 3 bolts and the main bolt also? I reckon the main bolt should have fixed the triangular flange to the crank shaft, and the 3 bolts hold pulley to it.The hole in the middle is just for the head of the bolt to stick out through.
really curious if you have any knowledge about super or turbo chargers, and fyi ive become obsessed with learning and taking better care about my car ever since ive started watching your vids, i mean obsessed :o, keep it up Eric
I am having my engine replaced. I am in the final week. The mechanic told me 2 pistons were broke on the old and that was the first time he's seen this. Also the oil pickup was bent. The main cause was the rod broke and shot out through the side of oil pan. The hole was as big as a softball ,literally. Eric, any advice as to what may have cause this and also do you think the rod bent the pickup?
When you are putting that front seal on the timing cover, would it be okay to use a piece of wood over top and hit on the wood straight over the seal to knock it in? I don’t see anything wrong with your method I’m just curious if using a solid piece of wood to evenly push in the seal might cause an issue I’m not thinking of.
Question about getting a seal on the oil pan. You put RTV on the gasket where it touches the oil pan (excepting the dip where the timing cover will go in). But you do not place RTV on the side of the gasket that touches the block?
its there similarity when it come to installing engines in different make like HONDA,FORD,TOYOTA,SCION,ETC or is there a completely different installment for each make?
I know this is a old vid but I've been tasked with either rebuilding this same engine or getting a reman. Curious as to where you got the new reman engine from?
l love to watch Eric's videos how he fix things up, he does it with such care, passion finest that you'd say he's like caressing it before he makes love to it. lol...
Hey BTW Eric in some of your videos it seems like you're saying that you are not a tech anymore, but you've always got cars to work on. Are you just doing it for teaching/video purposes or do you have your own shop?
a practice we did at the dealer on those oil pump drives, as well as the new oil seal we would use an actual distributor gasket as well, do to the fact that some times those new oil seals leaked and we had a comeback, just poor quality material I guess.
when you were installing exhaust manifold and reusing old gasket at 30 mins into video that AIR gasket you could of cut two of them out of the new exhaust gasket and created new gaskets for that AIR system i noticed they looked the same
Service manual goes even further in some cases. Suzuki GSF400 should have cylinder head primed with oil in areas where are valve springs when ever CH is taken off. Plus of course camshaft grease for first start.
Real world is much different than DIY, I use my torque wrenches all the time, but I am not using them, to torque an alt bracket or a idler pulley or a crossmember nor do any techs I know, heck neither does ETCG. I use my torque wrenches for critical fasteners, intakes, heads main caps etc.
I've got a question; If I was to try to torque a fastener in a recessed area, and I needed to use a three inch extension; Should I compensate for the extension by going up a couple of pounds or go by the book on the torque spec? Example; Replacing an trans mission pan and there is a heat shield and the catalytic converter in the way; and the fastener is lets say.... 13mm, and it needs to be torqued to 27 ft. lbs.; but I need to use a three inch extension to fasten it; should I up the torque to 29? I'm in a dilemma???? Although the torque manufacturer says not use an extension...... I'm confused????
I'd go with 29 to compensate for the extension since torque will be lost in that transition. Don't worry yourself too much, I personally just snug it up with a 1/4 in. ratchet like Eric does whenever I drop my transmission pan and I've never had leaks or anything. If you were dealing with engine internals or something to that degree I may worry, but even if you manage to over torque the pan bolts by a few pounds it isn't going to make a difference. My rule of thumb is ft. lbs., get it decently close and you're good, in. lbs. are where you want to be very precise.
You shouldn't need to. Unless the extension is flexing a large amount, you shouldn't be "loosing" any torque. Go for what you want to do though, two ft. lbs. shouldn't change anything
I thoroughly enjoy knowing that the first time this engine starts up, its going to be in the best conditions it could have (humanly) possibly been. Love your work Eric!
I don't work on cars, I can barely just change my own oil; but Eric's vids are so awesome, I'm just kicking back and watching this series with great enjoyment.
I’m currently swapping this same engine in a 1999, which is slightly different with those valves that run air back into exhaust manifold, otherwise it’s the same.
I’ve never done this before,but I’ve done plenty of other work on this truck, but not this much.
I’m to the part where I put on the timing cover and oil pan cover. Keeping my fingers crossed I get this done as easily as you make it look.
Your videos in this series are freaking awesome! They’ve been super helpful, and I’ve pretty much just followed step by step.
I believe it was intended this way. This is a demo/tutorial video, it makes it easier to distinguish the old parts from the new and see how they all fit together.
The whole time I was watching I was yelling at the video about the oil pan needing to go on last. Then you showed the mistake and didn't try to hide it. So it's cool.
Man, that a new engine, you have done most of the work !!!!!!
Eric I have been watching the show for some time. love your work.
looking at the timing cover and other alloy parts you have reused reminded me of a great idea I picked up from a local mechanic I thought I might pass along. He has repurposed an old domestic dishwasher as a parts cleaner. Using normal dishwasher salts, it does a fantastic job on alloy parts,removing even the burned on oil lacquers in a single wash cycle. Just the ticket for the valve cover and timing covers for a new engine look
Eric is quite correct shared coil Ignition systems do fire a spark to both plugs connected to the coil each time. For modern ignition systems this 'wasted spark' isn't an issue and also helps to keep the plugs from fouling.
The DIS system fires on both the power and exhaust stroke. So yes, they do fire at the same time. It's how the ignition coils are set up.
cant believe you didn't paint the old parts after cleaning only takes a little time and realy makes it all look great!!!
If I was rich I'd pay EricTheCarGuy to let me hang out at his shop for him to teach me the art of auto tech. He makes it look easy.
ERIC! Where is part 5 man? Getting some pretty serious withdrawal symptoms here. Great series.
This is your best series of videos yet. Well done.
I was getting tired of the web but then i saw part 4 was up! yeah!
This is a great video…I used this for my new engine. One thing is the oil pump. I installed mine and it slid in nice…but no oil when I started priming?
Can't wait for the next one! Shame it didn't have the automatic on it. I'd love to see if you left it in the truck or took it out.
You may have missed a step according to what I have read.
Behind the Camshaft gear is a replaceable plug (similar to a freeze plug) it should have a ~3mm hole in the center for oil to be splashed on the cam gear. Sometimes there is no hole, so plug replacement is required. The plugs do not come with holes.
Another reason why the steel gasket is used on the exhaust manifold is that the manifold is cast iron, the mount surface is the aluminum head. With a different metal there is a different temperature coefficient so each part expands and contracts at different rates so each metal part will GRIND the gasket back and forth. The is the purpose the the Multi Layer Steel Gasket (MLS) to more easily allow back and forth motion against the gasket without sheering its structure and tearing it and leaking.
You can spin oil pump with a 3/8 or 5/16 deepwell socket AFTER you install OP sending unit and on the shaft to prime it.
I'm not saying you can't install an interference fit harmonic balancer/crank pulley yoke with the large retainer bolt, but you run the risk of pulling out the threads in the crank in the process, ruining the crank. There is an installer tool available for this procedure. Oil on the threads and under the bolt head (as he did) is a great idea though if you don't have the tool.
YES finally a new vid and 44 and a half minutes of learning entertainment
Make sure there is no oil on the mating surface of two parts that go together especially if there is no gasket. I have reused metal gaskets and sometimes I spray Copper Coat on them first If i have any concerns about the gasket. I use a stud and nut to install balancer and such, Less chance of messing threads up on crank.
Good detailed video. I don't really miss this engine which I had in my '02 S10. It was reliable although I only put 78k on mine before trading it but it was very weak, noisy and had a very flat power curve with poor low end torque.
Love this series! Would it have been easier to access the electrical connectors and such on the intake side of the engine by removing the intake manifold while the engine was still in the vehicle, and then installing it after the new engine was back in the truck? Seems like that intake and fuel rail comes off fairly easily.
Since that oil pump is driven like old small block Chevys, You could have hooked a drill up to it and primed the system that way. Not sure if that crossed your mind or not.
Your videos are great ! You always make everything easy to understand.
Good video. I'm not too thrilled at how hard that crank pulley went on though.. I don't envy the next guy to try to take it off. I think i would have spent more time looking for a burr or rust or something that was making it stick so badly.
After some time as a tech you learn the feel of how tight a bolt should be, so rarely an issue. also it takes too much time to use a torque wrench on most things
Eric, could you please write down exactly which engine oil you used for the initial fill?
Eric, what kind of sealer did you use for the water pump? Just black RTV? Or water pump sealer? Thank you for the info, gotta do a leaky water pump this weekend.
Nice!
Next, I wanna see a Bugatti Veyron engine replacement by Eric.
See you in 12 years :)
like the fact your honest about your mistakes, everyone is human.
You are amazing man. The time you take to set up the camera for each shot is so well planned! I get so pumped when I see a new vid from you!! Keep up yhegreateor
Wire wheeling the pulley stub's sealing surface is a bit of a concern for me. All of those areas that I've seen on cams/cranks look like a mirror-polished/machined surface, so I would be worried that the roughening of that surface (which is great for a flywheel or brake rotor) could chew up the seal and cause a leak later on. Perhaps I'm just making a mountain out of a molehill though.
It's a 'wasted spark' system that allows you to use half as many coils as you have cylinders for a four-stroke engine. Won't work on a 3 or 5 cylinder engine, but for a 4/6/8 etc you can pair your opposite cyilnders' sparks so that you can use less parts.
Eric ,are you sure about how you fit the crank pulley? why would the pulley be secured with 3 bolts and the main bolt also? I reckon the main bolt should have fixed the triangular flange to the crank shaft, and the 3 bolts hold pulley to it.The hole in the middle is just for the head of the bolt to stick out through.
I really LOVE this series. Iv learned a lot.
really curious if you have any knowledge about super or turbo chargers, and fyi ive become obsessed with learning and taking better care about my car ever since ive started watching your vids, i mean obsessed :o, keep it up Eric
If I'm not mistaken those are just the chain guides and act as a tensioner as well!
I am having my engine replaced. I am in the final week. The mechanic told me 2 pistons were broke on the old and that was the first time he's seen this. Also the oil pickup was bent. The main cause was the rod broke and shot out through the side of oil pan. The hole was as big as a softball ,literally. Eric, any advice as to what may have cause this and also do you think the rod bent the pickup?
When you are putting that front seal on the timing cover, would it be okay to use a piece of wood over top and hit on the wood straight over the seal to knock it in? I don’t see anything wrong with your method I’m just curious if using a solid piece of wood to evenly push in the seal might cause an issue I’m not thinking of.
ETCG yo can't stop these vids, I'm addicted to them, ! Haha
Where did you get that oilpan? My dad garbage picked the same one and wants another one so when one's full, he doesn't have to worry
Question about getting a seal on the oil pan. You put RTV on the gasket where it touches the oil pan (excepting the dip where the timing cover will go in). But you do not place RTV on the side of the gasket that touches the block?
Pro tip for installing the timing cover…you can remove the studs with a 4-5mm socket and it’s much easier to set the gasket…
Oh man, waiting for part 5!!! Great series.
Great as always,Eric! Can't wait for #5.
its there similarity when it come to installing engines in different make like HONDA,FORD,TOYOTA,SCION,ETC or is there a completely different installment for each make?
I'm surprised he didn't oil the valve rockers to be fair. Are they pre-lubricated by the refurbishing service ?
Eric, can you please do part 5 on Monday?
Eric, do you recall the brand of the long block was?
I know this is a old vid but I've been tasked with either rebuilding this same engine or getting a reman. Curious as to where you got the new reman engine from?
l love to watch Eric's videos how he fix things up, he does it with such care, passion finest that you'd say he's like caressing it before he makes love to it. lol...
@35:12 - GM Waste Spark Distributorless Ignition System. Gotta love 'em.
Can the oil pump be primed after installation. Is it possible to prime through where the oil pump driver gear is installed.
this is the most fun part of the job isnt it
Hey BTW Eric in some of your videos it seems like you're saying that you are not a tech anymore, but you've always got cars to work on. Are you just doing it for teaching/video purposes or do you have your own shop?
a practice we did at the dealer on those oil pump drives, as well as the new oil seal we would use an actual distributor gasket as well, do to the fact that some times those new oil seals leaked and we had a comeback, just poor quality material I guess.
Awesome videos can't wait for part 5!
Great video series.
Eric is the american wheeler dealer!
l'd love to be a gear head like you Eric!!
when you were installing exhaust manifold and reusing old gasket at 30 mins into video that AIR gasket you could of cut two of them out of the new exhaust gasket and created new gaskets for that AIR system i noticed they looked the same
I think you need your own tv show as well
How much would it cost to have this exact job done at an automotive establishment?
Did Eric finally get a new 1/2 in impact?
Eric good job , sonoma.
Heric come a hackensack..artu..chev s10 fix to me..
Hey can you do a video on a crx on taking out the fuel pump
@ 11:10 timing chain cover, black ish scorch like stains is that sign of over heating or is this to be expected on 10+ yr old engine how many miles?
Usually how much does a new engine like this 2.2 cost...i have a 1999 s10 pick-up
Is it ok to turn the engine over dry even though he's only doing it by hand?
watching the whole thing in my robe. Great day off!
eric 2 questions one why not use anti seize on exhaust hardware and why red lock tite on the oil filter stud?
@15:52 never doubted you for a minute :P
The thermostat housing hasn't been reinstalled yet. It bolts on where he's pointing @43:38 so he'll probably do that in part 5.
Thanks Eric
like the new pic...what size your eyeball?
Why oil rather than antiseize for the exhaust studs....
Service manual goes even further in some cases. Suzuki GSF400 should have cylinder head primed with oil in areas where are valve springs when ever CH is taken off. Plus of course camshaft grease for first start.
Who's manufacturer of ECU? Btw. Nice video Eric!
at 15:30 those white plastic looking pieces against the timing chain. are those like a oilier system?
Another awesome video.
Real world is much different than DIY, I use my torque wrenches all the time, but I am not using them, to torque an alt bracket or a idler pulley or a crossmember nor do any techs I know, heck neither does ETCG.
I use my torque wrenches for critical fasteners, intakes, heads main caps etc.
depending on the shop 50-100 bucks an hour plus a new engine. all in all depending on the vehicle a few thousand I would think
They would have used assembly lube when they built the engine, so it is well lubed for the first crank.
cant wait for part 5 :D
eric....why no thread lock on the flywheel bolts?????
I have only a check engine light AND idle air control high average does any of this sound like compression problems?? help!
old video eric,but could you make a drill attachment to prime the engine with oil?
they actually have special tools you can get that are made for priming oil pumps
It seems like a lot of mechanics don't bother torquing bolts to spec. I'm no mechanic, but I've had bad experiences using too much torque on accident.
great vid.very informative.
pack the seal with grease then you don't risk the tension spring getting popped loose.
I love you eric.
Looking good!!!
I've got a question; If I was to try to torque a fastener in a recessed area, and I needed to use a three inch extension; Should I compensate for the extension by going up a couple of pounds or go by the book on the torque spec? Example; Replacing an trans mission pan and there is a heat shield and the catalytic converter in the way; and the fastener is lets say.... 13mm, and it needs to be torqued to 27 ft. lbs.; but I need to use a three inch extension to fasten it; should I up the torque to 29? I'm in a dilemma???? Although the torque manufacturer says not use an extension...... I'm confused????
I'd go with 29 to compensate for the extension since torque will be lost in that transition. Don't worry yourself too much, I personally just snug it up with a 1/4 in. ratchet like Eric does whenever I drop my transmission pan and I've never had leaks or anything. If you were dealing with engine internals or something to that degree I may worry, but even if you manage to over torque the pan bolts by a few pounds it isn't going to make a difference.
My rule of thumb is ft. lbs., get it decently close and you're good, in. lbs. are where you want to be very precise.
You shouldn't need to. Unless the extension is flexing a large amount, you shouldn't be "loosing" any torque. Go for what you want to do though, two ft. lbs. shouldn't change anything
Anti-seize works great on exhaust manifold bolts ;-)
Follow along I have s10 2002! Connecting rod sticking out side of block
Keep up the great work!!
that's correct, sir
That is the right way for thread tape by the way...
great video