Dear Allegheny Northern, to get rid of plaster on your track, the easiest way is to remove it is to dab a mixture of white vinegar and water on it. This will dissolve the plaster, makes the job much more pleasant than scrubbing, whether dry, or using water and dish soap. Cheerio
Recently found the channel and am enjoying going through the videos. Good to hear you addressing the Kato Unitrack #4 turnout issues. The explanation about how to orient them in a track plan is spot on. I can relate to the comment about liking to run trains while working on the layout. No reverse loops on mine yet but looing forward to seeing how the PSX-AR units work out for you.Thanks for the update and all the great videos you have posted.
there are times when I'm just too tired to work on a project - but a good running railroad where i can just watch the trains is perfect. maybe a little switching if i'm feeling a little bored and need some interaction with the models. that usually results in me tinkering with something and before you know it, i'm late making dinner. but at least i didn't just come home and sit on the couch!
To take up the slack in the lights hanging. Try taking a rubber band loop it around the strip, and back through itself, then tack it to the bottom of the lumber. It should keep you from seeing the light and could be adjustable based on where you attached them.
So youtube has started creating response suggestions - i'm guessing some sort of AI BS. it wanted me to tell you that i either "love rubber bands" or that I "use rubber bands for everything". i can confirm neither of those are my response. my plan was to use tape to the bottom of the foam board once i had it set - but i might try this first to avoid the tape. thanks!
Hi C Mastracci , looks like you been doing a lot of track cleaning . Thanks for the info on the #4 switch. I’ll probably use them in my yards when I expand my layout or build a new one. I’ll be using 4 axles for power in the yards. I kind of figured you needed to run at slow speeds. There are some modelers out there that just run their trains to fast. You’re not on a race track L O L . Yea I painted my track with those paint markers by hand before I put it on layout also. It turned out to be a lot easier. Thanks for sharing. Have a good weekend. 😎 👍
I have a love-hate relationship with those paint pens. some of them work great, and this one i'm using now is just a struggle. Great idea and concept it does take a lot of time with this much track, though. i once received a comment that my trains were running too slow in my vids. i could only assume that was from someone who's never stood beside train tracks. now i've seen them haulin' before, too, especially out west where there's nothing but dessert - but out east, we have civilization and speed limits!
Thank you for explaining what to do with the #4 switches. As to flying though a #4 switch, mine are in my yard mostly, and I’m gonna go slow in my yard anyway. Thanks for sharing.
That's really the best place for them - yards and industries where no one is a break-neck speed. some folks are using their trains like train sets instead of models and the #4s just don't handle that well. #6s pretty much take all trains, all sizes, all speeds though. a lot more space is required to use them, though.
omg ive had this issue for 4 years with my kato tracks i just stopped running my kato and stuck with my bachman trains this have completely solved my issue thank you for this
glad it helped - it seems to be a common problem with a very simple solution. unless you don't have the track space. then this simple solution really screws things up.
The PSX-AR is a solid product. I use two of them for two reversing loops. The PSX circuit breakers are excellent products also - my layout uses four of them for overall short circuit protection.
Great! they're reasonably priced and i wished i would have thought through the operation of the layout before buying the AR-1s. I'm actually going to need a few of them anyway, so not a total waste. I am going to be breaking up the layout into smaller power districts so if this PSX-AR works good I''ll definitely check out their PSX breakers.
The problem with the #4 (or any S curve), is actually the coupler swing. When a car is going through a curve, the couplers naturally swing to the outside of the centre line, then revert to centre as it straightens. S curves force the couplers of connected cars to opposite sides of the centre line - and the longer the trucks or the overhang of the cars, the more this is an issue. That sudden jerk sideways is what causes the derailment. As you suggested, a section of straight track between the curves alleviates this.
That is also an issue. i should have set it up to show but on a standard size car - 50' or so, the #4 does not have a coupler swing issue with or without the straight track. There's just enough track before the points to align them - not the same for a 89' autorack however. the 6-axle diesels are hit or miss, depending on the shank length used and what size car is trailing behind. it also makes a difference if you're using truck-mount or body-mount couplers. truck-mount couplers are the worst, because all of the in-train forces go through the wheels furthering the torque issue when coming into the points directly after a curve. however, body-mount couplers on an 89' car have significantly more overhang on tight curves as opposed to their truck mounted counterparts.
Hey, #4's are ok if you put a short straight piece before the diversion. On ridding the ballast and scenery material I sprits the track with ISO 99% let it sit 20 mins and have had no issues cleaning the turn outs like others on sectional track just use water takes care of most of it. sent you an e-mail about stuff we talked about, .et me know. good subject to let guys know.
damnit, i didn't check that email all week LOL! i really wonder how many turnouts i junked in the past because i didn't clean them properly. i'm thinking about to my old atlas snaps that i started with... more hobby dollars wasted!
So - i spent about 3.5 seconds thinking about that earlier and now that you've asked, i put another maybe 4.7 seconds into it and i don't think i'm going to sink it. hear me out. kato stuff is typically made to be plug and play and quickly removable - turntable included. that's why the wiring is in a special harness out the side and not the bottom. So, i'm thinking i'm going to just leave it right on the table as it is and bring the scenery up to it with foam. that was the first 3.5 seconds of thought. Now, with the next 4.7 seconds i thought, huh - that's going to look weird with the mainline slightly lower so - i'm going to use the woodland scenics road risers and pop the main up just enough to look right and boom, we're done. would it be easier to sink the whole unit? not sure - i really don't want to try and cut the hole and then level it so i think this is going to result in a visually interesting scene with a couple different elevations. plus, i don't have a giant hole in my foam. if i think about it again, i might change my opinion but thinking usually leads to me getting in trouble and i find it best to avoid too much of that.
@AlleghenyNorthern I follow you completely, hehe. Thanks for the true explanations. 👍👌I'll watch and learn. I think I'm gonna add one more 3 bay house to mine
I soaked my unitrack in warm water/hot water with soaked and let them soaked for overnight and then scrubbed the rest off. I hate #4 switches, so I switched them all to #6.
warm soapy water usually takes care of most of the scenery materials with a little light scrubbing. i didn't soak mine overnight, though. i wanted to minimize water contact as metals and water - even alloys - not a great mix. i use mostly #4s so we differ there but the #6 are damn near flawless so if you have the space and don't mind not differentiating between mainline and secondary usage - you can avoid the #4s.
Dear Allegheny Northern, to get rid of plaster on your track, the easiest way is to remove it is to dab a mixture of white vinegar and water on it. This will dissolve the plaster, makes the job much more pleasant than scrubbing, whether dry, or using water and dish soap. Cheerio
ah, a little trade secret! thanks, i'm going to try this. that's the worst product to try and remove.
Recently found the channel and am enjoying going through the videos. Good to hear you addressing the Kato Unitrack #4 turnout issues. The explanation about how to orient them in a track plan is spot on. I can relate to the comment about liking to run trains while working on the layout. No reverse loops on mine yet but looing forward to seeing how the PSX-AR units work out for you.Thanks for the update and all the great videos you have posted.
there are times when I'm just too tired to work on a project - but a good running railroad where i can just watch the trains is perfect. maybe a little switching if i'm feeling a little bored and need some interaction with the models. that usually results in me tinkering with something and before you know it, i'm late making dinner. but at least i didn't just come home and sit on the couch!
Useful information for newbie’s like myself. Thanks.
To take up the slack in the lights hanging. Try taking a rubber band loop it around the strip, and back through itself, then tack it to the bottom of the lumber. It should keep you from seeing the light and could be adjustable based on where you attached them.
So youtube has started creating response suggestions - i'm guessing some sort of AI BS. it wanted me to tell you that i either "love rubber bands" or that I "use rubber bands for everything". i can confirm neither of those are my response. my plan was to use tape to the bottom of the foam board once i had it set - but i might try this first to avoid the tape. thanks!
Hi C Mastracci , looks like you been doing a lot of track cleaning . Thanks for the info on the #4 switch. I’ll probably use them in my yards when I expand my layout or build a new one. I’ll be using 4 axles for power in the yards. I kind of figured you needed to run at slow speeds. There are some modelers out there that just run their trains to fast. You’re not on a race track L O L . Yea I painted my track with those paint markers by hand before I put it on layout also. It turned out to be a lot easier. Thanks for sharing. Have a good weekend. 😎 👍
I have a love-hate relationship with those paint pens. some of them work great, and this one i'm using now is just a struggle. Great idea and concept it does take a lot of time with this much track, though. i once received a comment that my trains were running too slow in my vids. i could only assume that was from someone who's never stood beside train tracks. now i've seen them haulin' before, too, especially out west where there's nothing but dessert - but out east, we have civilization and speed limits!
Thank you for explaining what to do with the #4 switches. As to flying though a #4 switch, mine are in my yard mostly, and I’m gonna go slow in my yard anyway. Thanks for sharing.
That's really the best place for them - yards and industries where no one is a break-neck speed. some folks are using their trains like train sets instead of models and the #4s just don't handle that well. #6s pretty much take all trains, all sizes, all speeds though. a lot more space is required to use them, though.
omg ive had this issue for 4 years with my kato tracks i just stopped running my kato and stuck with my bachman trains this have completely solved my issue thank you for this
glad it helped - it seems to be a common problem with a very simple solution. unless you don't have the track space. then this simple solution really screws things up.
The PSX-AR is a solid product. I use two of them for two reversing loops. The PSX circuit breakers are excellent products also - my layout uses four of them for overall short circuit protection.
Great! they're reasonably priced and i wished i would have thought through the operation of the layout before buying the AR-1s. I'm actually going to need a few of them anyway, so not a total waste. I am going to be breaking up the layout into smaller power districts so if this PSX-AR works good I''ll definitely check out their PSX breakers.
The problem with the #4 (or any S curve), is actually the coupler swing. When a car is going through a curve, the couplers naturally swing to the outside of the centre line, then revert to centre as it straightens. S curves force the couplers of connected cars to opposite sides of the centre line - and the longer the trucks or the overhang of the cars, the more this is an issue. That sudden jerk sideways is what causes the derailment. As you suggested, a section of straight track between the curves alleviates this.
That is also an issue. i should have set it up to show but on a standard size car - 50' or so, the #4 does not have a coupler swing issue with or without the straight track. There's just enough track before the points to align them - not the same for a 89' autorack however. the 6-axle diesels are hit or miss, depending on the shank length used and what size car is trailing behind. it also makes a difference if you're using truck-mount or body-mount couplers. truck-mount couplers are the worst, because all of the in-train forces go through the wheels furthering the torque issue when coming into the points directly after a curve. however, body-mount couplers on an 89' car have significantly more overhang on tight curves as opposed to their truck mounted counterparts.
Hey, #4's are ok if you put a short straight piece before the diversion. On ridding the ballast and scenery material I sprits the track with ISO 99% let it sit 20 mins and have had no issues cleaning the turn outs like others on sectional track just use water takes care of most of it. sent you an e-mail about stuff we talked about, .et me know. good subject to let guys know.
damnit, i didn't check that email all week LOL! i really wonder how many turnouts i junked in the past because i didn't clean them properly. i'm thinking about to my old atlas snaps that i started with... more hobby dollars wasted!
Another great vid. How ya gonna sink your turntable into the foam this time around 😬
So - i spent about 3.5 seconds thinking about that earlier and now that you've asked, i put another maybe 4.7 seconds into it and i don't think i'm going to sink it. hear me out. kato stuff is typically made to be plug and play and quickly removable - turntable included. that's why the wiring is in a special harness out the side and not the bottom. So, i'm thinking i'm going to just leave it right on the table as it is and bring the scenery up to it with foam. that was the first 3.5 seconds of thought. Now, with the next 4.7 seconds i thought, huh - that's going to look weird with the mainline slightly lower so - i'm going to use the woodland scenics road risers and pop the main up just enough to look right and boom, we're done. would it be easier to sink the whole unit? not sure - i really don't want to try and cut the hole and then level it so i think this is going to result in a visually interesting scene with a couple different elevations. plus, i don't have a giant hole in my foam. if i think about it again, i might change my opinion but thinking usually leads to me getting in trouble and i find it best to avoid too much of that.
@AlleghenyNorthern I follow you completely, hehe. Thanks for the true explanations. 👍👌I'll watch and learn. I think I'm gonna add one more 3 bay house to mine
🤠🚂🗯👍
I soaked my unitrack in warm water/hot water with soaked and let them soaked for overnight and then scrubbed the rest off. I hate #4 switches, so I switched them all to #6.
warm soapy water usually takes care of most of the scenery materials with a little light scrubbing. i didn't soak mine overnight, though. i wanted to minimize water contact as metals and water - even alloys - not a great mix. i use mostly #4s so we differ there but the #6 are damn near flawless so if you have the space and don't mind not differentiating between mainline and secondary usage - you can avoid the #4s.