Wow, your models come off the plate so much easier than with my Mars 5 Ultra. I was having adhesion issues until I cranked up the exposure time on the first few layers and now they're practically glued on there and take a lot of force to remove.
You could see if it's other factors that are making your bed adhesion bad. Could be the cranking it up fixed it but that the bed isn't perfectly level or the temperature might fluctuate etc
I agree with haste, i would check your plate is levelled and I usually have my bottom exposure at 30, 35 secs. Any more than that and it's hard to remove and brittle
It's hard to see but I think his plate is smooth? Mars has an etched plate and that significantly increases the contact area, making for stronger adhesion.
Bit of advice from someone who runs a resin 3d print shop discard the spirits, recycle the resin. I put a small enclosure in my utility room away from any UV, vent that enclosure outside and let the, in my case, isopropyl alcohol evaporate and then I put what's left over back in my printer and print lower detail bases with it. Alcohol costs me $4/liter and resin $15 per kg. 2l of dirty wash resin yields about 500g of reclaimed resin after the alcohol evaporate, whereas if I tried to cure the resin and reclaim the alcohol I'd get maybe 300ml. So the end product of reclaiming alcohol and discarding resin is worth about $1.2 USD whereas the value of the reclaiming the resin and evaporating the alcohol is about $7.5 USD it does take considerably longer but I run 1 month cycles. 1 month as clean wash, replace the clean wash with new alcohol, 1 month as dirty wash, then clean wash becomes dirty wash and dirty wash gets a month in a warm, vented, UV free place for the alcohol to evaporate and its ready to print with. It doesn't give as sharp of detail as virgin resin but for simple round or oval bases I'll build on top of its golden.
Same on the magnetic plates, mate. Back when I had first started using a printer, I got a flex plate. I ended up finding them more trouble than they were worth not to mention the edges on them were bastard sharp and I cut my thumb (twice, both times through double gloved hands) before I decided I could do without resin in cuts and they were not for me. If you've got your settings dialled in prints stick well enough to your plate, but not so much that they don't jut pop off with a bit of pressure as you'd want them to.
Horus sake brother that sounds like a nightmare!! I didn't realise they were that sharp on the edges! I wonder if those that recommend them just haven't been cut by them yet then
Love it, bro. Just got my saturn 3 ultra and the wash and cure stations. I've got it all set up but really trying to learn vefore i print something. Esp this part, I'd like to have the whole idea kinda mapped out so I don't get resin everywhere.
100% brother, keeping down the mess is probably the most important thing I've found, if you have a dedicated space for it then happy days! A few silicon mats will help as well if you don't have those already
Another point in favor of 3d printing is the fact that you can get your models from anywhere in the world without having to pay a lot for shipping, in my country there isn't a single store that sells Warhammer stuff
How do you ventilate your printing room? That is one of the issues I ran into and why I had to get rid of my resin printer. Little kids in a small apartment and resin 3D printer fumes don't mix.
Using an enclosure like a growtent and then an IKEA cabinet really restricts the fumes, I mostly just air out the space with open windows or keep the shed door open now. I've been looking into extracting with an actual extraction fan and flexible hose setup going outside but having the enclosure really helps because it gives you time to be able to open the windows before you open it up. I do know what you mean with little kids and resin printers hence why I got the shed.
I have but then that's another thing I have to store in the small space lol it would be a lot less wasteful than the paper towels, to be fair if I wasn't recording that part of the process for videos I would reuse the paper towels for multiple plates
Should really get the GK2 sonic cleaner you can wash the models right on the plate. And use Sunlu detergent. Scrap off after detergent bath and break off the easier to remove supports. This is the only time you really need to wear gloves. Then place in a water bath. Then cure station.
I also have the wash station but haven't set it up to use yet because I read about using water vs ipa in it, how often do you have to change the detergent?
That's a good question! I will make a video for it going more in depth but I have a video on what equipment you need that I uploaded recently but if you can have it in a garage thats a good start if not then no worries, I had mine in my spare room that I worked from home in as well, an enclosure for the printer would be a good option to purchase for both scenarios
If you can get them for same price or cheaper then yes go for it, I find that they last a bit longer than ipa. This could be because the purple hides the contamination but I recently had to stock up on 15l of ipa because I was able to get it cheaper than usual so I can compare them properly
@@battlebrothersam Thanks for the reply , i've been looking at industrial meths that isn't dyed . Had some used IPA sitting outside for the resin to cure so I could filter and re use it and the whole 4 one litre bottles have turned to a jelly like substance .
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I got a printer for christmas and was looking for a video just like this. Thanks!
Excellent brother! Glad to hear this will come in handy for you 😁
Wow, your models come off the plate so much easier than with my Mars 5 Ultra. I was having adhesion issues until I cranked up the exposure time on the first few layers and now they're practically glued on there and take a lot of force to remove.
You could see if it's other factors that are making your bed adhesion bad. Could be the cranking it up fixed it but that the bed isn't perfectly level or the temperature might fluctuate etc
I agree with haste, i would check your plate is levelled and I usually have my bottom exposure at 30, 35 secs. Any more than that and it's hard to remove and brittle
It's hard to see but I think his plate is smooth? Mars has an etched plate and that significantly increases the contact area, making for stronger adhesion.
@@salty-nick My models come off similar on my phrozen mighty 8k which has an etched plate
Nice video, lot of Best practices.
Thanks brother! 😁
Bit of advice from someone who runs a resin 3d print shop discard the spirits, recycle the resin. I put a small enclosure in my utility room away from any UV, vent that enclosure outside and let the, in my case, isopropyl alcohol evaporate and then I put what's left over back in my printer and print lower detail bases with it. Alcohol costs me $4/liter and resin $15 per kg. 2l of dirty wash resin yields about 500g of reclaimed resin after the alcohol evaporate, whereas if I tried to cure the resin and reclaim the alcohol I'd get maybe 300ml. So the end product of reclaiming alcohol and discarding resin is worth about $1.2 USD whereas the value of the reclaiming the resin and evaporating the alcohol is about $7.5 USD it does take considerably longer but I run 1 month cycles. 1 month as clean wash, replace the clean wash with new alcohol, 1 month as dirty wash, then clean wash becomes dirty wash and dirty wash gets a month in a warm, vented, UV free place for the alcohol to evaporate and its ready to print with. It doesn't give as sharp of detail as virgin resin but for simple round or oval bases I'll build on top of its golden.
wow I have never heard of it being recycled for using the resin rather than the alcohol! How did you come up with that?
Another brilliant video bud.
Thanks Brother! :D
Let’s see some custom models!
👀 Like kitbashed?
Same on the magnetic plates, mate. Back when I had first started using a printer, I got a flex plate. I ended up finding them more trouble than they were worth not to mention the edges on them were bastard sharp and I cut my thumb (twice, both times through double gloved hands) before I decided I could do without resin in cuts and they were not for me. If you've got your settings dialled in prints stick well enough to your plate, but not so much that they don't jut pop off with a bit of pressure as you'd want them to.
Horus sake brother that sounds like a nightmare!! I didn't realise they were that sharp on the edges! I wonder if those that recommend them just haven't been cut by them yet then
@@battlebrothersam I could have just been unlucky or maybe not taking it off the build plate optimally or something but yeah - not for me!
Love it, bro. Just got my saturn 3 ultra and the wash and cure stations. I've got it all set up but really trying to learn vefore i print something. Esp this part, I'd like to have the whole idea kinda mapped out so I don't get resin everywhere.
100% brother, keeping down the mess is probably the most important thing I've found, if you have a dedicated space for it then happy days! A few silicon mats will help as well if you don't have those already
Another point in favor of 3d printing is the fact that you can get your models from anywhere in the world without having to pay a lot for shipping, in my country there isn't a single store that sells Warhammer stuff
When are you gonna show off that A1 with the AMS?
Very soon brother, almost finished my testing on it 😁
How do you ventilate your printing room? That is one of the issues I ran into and why I had to get rid of my resin printer. Little kids in a small apartment and resin 3D printer fumes don't mix.
Using an enclosure like a growtent and then an IKEA cabinet really restricts the fumes, I mostly just air out the space with open windows or keep the shed door open now. I've been looking into extracting with an actual extraction fan and flexible hose setup going outside but having the enclosure really helps because it gives you time to be able to open the windows before you open it up. I do know what you mean with little kids and resin printers hence why I got the shed.
have you tried a disposable tin roasting pan instead of the paper towel setup ? Great video tho
I have but then that's another thing I have to store in the small space lol it would be a lot less wasteful than the paper towels, to be fair if I wasn't recording that part of the process for videos I would reuse the paper towels for multiple plates
Should really get the GK2 sonic cleaner you can wash the models right on the plate. And use Sunlu detergent. Scrap off after detergent bath and break off the easier to remove supports. This is the only time you really need to wear gloves. Then place in a water bath. Then cure station.
I also have the wash station but haven't set it up to use yet because I read about using water vs ipa in it, how often do you have to change the detergent?
How would you recommend getting started and making sure it’s safe (probably in a garage)?
That's a good question! I will make a video for it going more in depth but I have a video on what equipment you need that I uploaded recently but if you can have it in a garage thats a good start if not then no worries, I had mine in my spare room that I worked from home in as well, an enclosure for the printer would be a good option to purchase for both scenarios
@@battlebrothersam I print over night and vent my rooms when I start the day. What do you think about that?
@@CMDR_BananenKeks I done the same before I got the shed!
Do you find the meths to be better than IPA ?
The price seems pretty much the same as far as I can find out
If you can get them for same price or cheaper then yes go for it, I find that they last a bit longer than ipa. This could be because the purple hides the contamination but I recently had to stock up on 15l of ipa because I was able to get it cheaper than usual so I can compare them properly
@@battlebrothersam Thanks for the reply , i've been looking at industrial meths that isn't dyed . Had some used IPA sitting outside for the resin to cure so I could filter and re use it and the whole 4 one litre bottles have turned to a jelly like substance .
@@shauntaylor9251 shake the bottles up and let them sit for a bit and see if the ipa rises to the surface
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