How to Orient 3D Prints - 3D Printing 101
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 14 янв 2017
- Did you know the way you orient your models for 3D Printing has a huge effect on their appearance, strength and chance off success? Well in this 3D Printing 101 we'll show you everything you need to know.
Orientation Test Files - gumroad.com/products/NRcG
Kitty Phone Holder - www.thingiverse.com/thing:1012788
Simplify3D is outdated and we now recommend PrusaSlicer (free) - www.prusa3d.com/page/prusasli...
Don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss any future 3D Printing Reviews, Tutorials or Projects!
---
Like what we do?
Visit us at makersmuse.com for more information about Makers Muse!
Say G'day to us on Twitter and Instagram @makersmuse
Ways you can support Maker's Muse:
-Want to buy a 3D Printer but don't know where to start? Get our eBook here!
gumroad.com/products/NBvg/
- Support us on Patreon
www.patreon.com/makersmuse?ty=h
-Buy a T-shirt!
www.redbubble.com/people/maker...
- By using our amazon affiliate links
US - amzn.to/1Ym50j1
UK - amzn.to/1PJICdR
Or a direct donation through RUclips
And lastly, a BIG thanks to the community, and those who have supported us here at Makers Muse!
---- 
Наука
Watching this 3 years after it was first released... still very helpful and relevant to a 3D newbie. Thanks.
Good presentation Angus. Your topics are always helpful.
Love your videos, man. Great content. I started playing around with 3d printing at my last job. Saving up for my own now, and I can't wait to get started!
Woah, how did I not know about that place surface on bed tool! That is going to make things SOOOO much easier! Thanks for another great video Angus!
Also, I would imagine that piece would be best printed in its current format as it seems like it would require the least amount of supports just under the center of the M and possibly under the box depending on the printer's capabilities
Thanks for another awesome tutorial/tips!
Im starting a 3D printing business thanks to all of your amazingly awesome and helpful video's! Just thought i would share the love! You're awesome! Keep up the amazing work :)
Excellent video Angus. Thanks.
Thanks for the tips - great video.
Another great video with Simplify 3D. Could you please make one on how you organize and use the printer, material, and quality profiles? Maybe throw in something about organizing processes. It seems like every change I make modifies the printer profile, and I am unsure of when I want to save these to use later on.
Thanks!
I also found that in some cases, like the Marble machine, it's good to think about the part cooling fan flow direction. had many fails on the wanhao due to curling edges in one particular part. rotating the print to have that particular part cooled more effectively has fixed the issue :)
3DMN marble machine? I thought it was a bomb
Dear Majer's Muse Great video!
Do you have a video that explain how to use Raft and when should be used?
Thank you
Great Video Dude!
Nice video, thanks for sharing.
Just looking for "place on surface" function in simplify3d. Awesome 101!
Hey for your question on th end: I would just print it like it would stand in the end with supports on. seems best to me.
Hi Angus, I loved your examples. I would have printed out the MM bar wrong... I suspect one would print out the Maker's Muse torture block in the same way for the text to come out best.
what is that lightgreen thing? where can i find it. i want to print it! :)
What is the name of the song you use in the intro?
can you do a video using repetier.Not everyone uses s3d
where can I get that phone holder Angus?
I think it should print on it's left or right side as it uses minimal support and it should give more detail
what printer bed are u using?
Thanks for the video and tips!
I've been puzzled about why some of the airplane (SR-71) and space ship (Normandy 2) models I've downloaded are imported as side-down orientations, rather than just printing from a simpler looking bottom-down orientation. Usually I've had trouble removing the rafting from the small (150mm bed) finished product when I print them bottom-down , because the raft is so firmly attached to the bottom of the not-very-big object. Maybe I should try printing them again with the original, imported side-down orientation - even though that seems more complex and requires more support material?
A related question that maybe you could address at some point is: Why do so many of the models I download require "auto-correcting" when I import them into my (XYZPrinting XYZWare) slicer software? I always do it, but wonder what the software is seeing in the file that looks wrong to it.
Keep up the good work!
1) Sometimes model-makers align their models in what they think is the "best" orientation for printing, but it may not be so with your specific printer as there are so many differences between how you print and how that person prints (fan location, your slicer settings, how your bed gets leveled, how well stuff sticks to your bed, what sort of supports your slicer makes, etc etc etc). But in other cases the creator just uploaded their model in whatever orientation they happened to build it in...so there's no hard and fast answer (but Angus' tips definitely help.)
2) The most likely answer is because the person that created the model made one of many mistakes, all of which fall under the "bad geometry" category: most 3D design programs let you leave holes, "one-sided walls", "solid objects inside another solid object", and other artifacts in the model as they are not intended to be printed...so when you try to print it, your slicer is dealing with an "impossible in the real world" object and needs to try and fix it. (And on that note, search back through Angus' videos - he's got a couple that explain other methods of fixing "broken" models, such as with Meshmixer or using a cloud service.)
To me, looks like putting it on the right wall (with the text facing you) would print ok. But I really need to put it in a slicer to see what'll come out, to be 100% sure ;)
whats your favorite printer you have and favorite one in the you don't have
"Printing Purr-fection." Thought you could sneak that one past us did you now?
So let me make sure I understand the challenge --- I get to decide that it would print best with only the top razor thin edge of the part on the bed. Then you get to make that print work ...... or did I not quite understand :) ..... Assuming that *I* have to print the part, I'd print it "normal" (bottom side down as you would commonly look at it). Yes there would be both supports from the bed and internally. I'm trying it on end in vase mode with no supports now, I *know* it will fail, the question is how quickly it will fail ....
It will need some support no matter which way it is printed. Giving priority to the text detail and the surfaces which will be most visible and allowing the logo cut outs to have support running straight up from the baseplate would mean printing it on its base
Hey is there a module/system to reuse the printed part? As a noob I find myself wasting a lot of filament due to redesign and control settings. Would be cool if there is a module where I throw the scrap into it and recycle it again. Thanks!
This has been done, you need a shredder and filament extruder, expensive to buy, you make be able to break up the old prints using pliers as for the extruder, you have a printer - that makes you a maker, so there's little reason not to make your own :)
If Simplify3D were $35 then yes but when it cost more than my printer, no.
interesting model. i suspect the secret to this one is that the front is sloped... thus i would place it on its back. however my inclination is not to do this as there is a tendancy i find for words on a shallow slope to become distorted from anniying slicing and step effects at 0.2mm layer height. so if using 0.2 then I would not use the back.
This effect can be reduced by increasing the angle more to the horizontal which would mean placing it on either the base or an end would work... thus the base would be preferable to reduce support material and hide the bottom surface when finished. the top surface should not matter as they are not such that would produce ugly results.
i am happy to be corrected though :)
I made a ring that I 3D printed and it has really fine details that some turned out good while others it didn't at 50 microns. I tweaked the settings for reduces speed and temperature and got better results but I wonder if getting a smaller nozzles like 0.25 will improve the print.
It will improve the X-Y resolution. But keep in mind your print times will be way longer and you may run into nozzle clogs more often. And forget about particle filled materials like Woodfill. Otherwise, I've seen 0.2 nozzle prints - they're really nice, so go for it if you think print times are not an issue.
I am aware it will take longer, i only print in PLA, the ring i made took about 45 min to print at 50 micron resolution at 30 mm\sec and i tried 2 different ways. The first way was just using supports on one side and that side needs a lot of cleanup and there is a thin lip that didn't turn out that great. The other way was to split the ring in half so it has a flat part to be places on the print bed.
muito bom ....
printing it now, no support... wish me luck i got this right lol
Is there a download for that file at the end?
Yep sorry, updated the description so you can grab it from gumroad for free. :)
Awesome thanks, Angus!
Maker's Muse do u have a video on all the 3d printing websites like thingyvers
is there a way to get simplify3d cheaper or for free as a student? i would really love that program but its freaking expensive
pirated versions?
Arthur Jakubiec what do you mean?
Arthur Jakubiec or better... where can i get it...
on sites like piratebay most likely
www.simplify3d.com/buy-now/
Says on their page that they give a 10% discount. So
$135 instead of $150. Not a huge savings, but as far as software goes, even $150 isn't much. A fraction of what the printers themselves cost.
@Angus , where was the file to down load for the orientation?
Sorry about that, description updated ! It's free on gumroad.
Cheers :)
I tried "text as overhang" you suggested as "pro tip" but the text is mostly unreadable ... text on top on the other hand was fine ... depends I guess ? Fun :)
Jeremy Kelaher fans maybe?
I find myself neglecting to spend the time/ brain cells I should on print orientation, a bad habit for sure. Priority is key. Detail vs Strength vs Time vs Consumption.
and some times it's best to cut the model and glue later.
That'll definitely be a follow up.
The way objects are orientated in S3D are the same as how they are made in their respective software in relation to their gismos orientation. you can determine this yourself before you get anywhere near S3D if your are making the object yourself. You can reset it permanently in many 3d applications if you have the time or need as well. Thanks Angus and thanks S3D
Luke Pettit Not the case with Solidworks 2016.
Which is why I said this :-) "You can reset it permanently in many 3d applications" and not "You can reset it permanently in every 3d application."
didnt he do this before
I think it would be best printed like shown in the Video.
"Most favorite" 4:34 >_>
I can't analyze everything that comes out of my mouth ;) it's amazing I can speak coherently at all these days, honestly.
@Maker's Muse Have you ever considered making some music using differant 3D printing sounds?
Yep you can even easily convert midi to gcode - I'll try it out one day.
With your collection, you could probably set up an orchestra. :-)
Print it on its side.
You really don't like your printers huh? Designing all this evil stuff.
boomerangfreak I
I tried to print Eiffel tower upside down. But My printer failed.
6th
I *think* your videos are informative, but you talk so fast and try to cover so much ground that I miss half of what you're saying. I think you're more focused on getting through the script than imparting the knowledge contained therein.
Tl:dr... Slow. Down. Please.