What is Layer Height and Nozzle Diameter? - 3D Printing 101
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- In this episode of 3D Printing 101 on Maker's Muse we'll tackle how layer heights and nozzle diameter go hand in hand to create your 3D Print.
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Well done with this very informative video, Angus! The information flow was great, and your spaced it out in a way to make it easy to take in and remember. Awesome!
Thanks man!
3D Printing Nerd oh my god, here, take my baby!
Any chance of either of you guys making a video talking about how these factors also limit feed rate and print speed? I think adding temperature and filament type into the mix also makes it complicated for users to grasp how all these variables are linked. I've been 3D printing with FFF printers for a while now, sometimes successfully and sometimes not, and I'm still trying to get the gist of how layer height, nozzle diameter, feed rate and print speed are interconnected and what are their limits. I'm still searching for info on how to calculate limits not only to avoid failed prints but also to optimize printing time.
Appreciate the time these videos take. People don't often realize, even in a lecture type video,
how much time all the cuts, pics, etc. take. Good job!
Thank you so much for your videos, I just got my first printer (anet a8) and your videos are REALLY helping me decide what to do and what not to do, and my print quality has improved exponentially after watching your amazing content.
ace video Angus keep these sort of demos coming its a learning curve and you are helping
I like all these videos coming out quick!
Thank goodness for your channel you've answered so many questions - thanks!
Great video Angus. Just want to mention that doubling the diameter like from 0.4mm to 0.8mm will generally reduce your print time by 4X, because both layer height and extrusion width are doubled. This is great news for anyone printing big since scaling your print by 2x will 6-8x your build time.
Great explanation! really cleared it up for me. Thanks!
Angus I swear the quality of your videos greats better every week! I don't know how lol
Oh nice ! Again usefull information for someone like me who doesn't much about this stuff yet. I'm really getting confident about myself succeeding in 3D printing after watching about 10 of your videos already ! xD thanks.
Nice straightforward explanation. Alweys had trouble playing with the settings on my ender3.
Angus, I love your skepticism. Keeping people from being fooled by evil 3D printer companies. Heh.
Thanks for giving it to us straight Jack!
Your videos are so helpful! Ty! 😊
Great explanation. Thank you Angus.
so amazing!!!!!! thank you so much:) you help me when I'm 3D printing and dont know what to do !!!!!!
Your videos are just brilliant I have learnt so much. Easy to understand and comprehensive. Thank you so much from England. PS Am trying figure out an issue (last 5 days) so am busy watching everything I can find
Excellent video. Very well explained
Really clear and to the point thank you.
Very nice video and really nice way of explaining it.
I just got my first 3D printer today called the Wanhao Duplicator I3 mini thanks for helping me out on this Angus.
Great video Angus! Digging the format and shoot in the workshop. I'm still looking for a good space to shoot my Cubicon Single review
This is a great video!
Woah! Fancy 3D nozzle graphic alert! Did you do that yourself?
good video. Angus the music on the end of the video, did you make it yourself or is it available somewere?
When I change my layer height, do I have to change something else in settings for that new layer height to be possible?
Hey!
I have a cocoon create printer with a flexion extruder but I am still struggling to print with it.
What is the best settings using cura for normal filaments and tpe filaments?
Hi there! Greetings from Chile and great videos by the way!
Right to the point:
Im having problems with inter-layer addhesion, so ... for instance i "vertically" printed a bar, if i bend it, it will break perflectly horizontally right in the interlayer bonding lines.
How could i improve this? lowering the layer height will help? reducing speed to improve layer bonding?
Is there a material that has strong layer bonding? We re using PLA and PETG right now
Thanks for your help!
Well spoken !!!
I have seen in Simplify3D that there is also a relation between these settings that may not exceed 1.2, but I didn't quite understand that one.
Thanks for this! You mention that smaller nozzle diameters are more difficult to print with because of increased pressure, etc. How would one compensate for that? Just slower print speed and extrusion speed/multiplier or something? Also how difficult is it typically to change out the nozzle?
Always useful info here. :)
Thanks for sharing! So, if I want to use a layer height of 0.2mm for a small piece, what should it be the first layer height?
Thanks, very informative. Can the layer height be same as nozzle dia
I would love to learn how to 3d print a second house key to hide outside my house.
Great video ! I like the coins that you designed, it gives a good indication on how good the filament is :)
great video! thanks Angus :) :) :) dig that jacket too. Haha
Very nice informative video. Need advice, for a starter print house business, what nozzle do you suggest and layer height that can do many type size prints (minis to?) ?
my printer came 0.4mm nozzle.. do i need to change lower than that like 0.2mm to print 0.1 mm - 0.2?? thank you
What's the music at the end of the video?
Nice one!
One other point worth mentioning is larger nozzle = larger layers = stronger prints! Although you sacrifice some "visual quality" its a tradeoff worth making in my opinion!
I have done prints with a .25 nozzle on my Um2 and it handles them just fine although like you said the time goes up dramatically as your speed is limited. Also I find prints with the small nozzle are better for visual vs structural prints as the layer bonding strength is much lower. You maybe able to correct this by smoothing the model with an appropriate solvent (THF, Acetone, Ethyl Acetate...)
awesome video,, thank you for the very useful and informative video for newbs and some advanced user i will be dropping this link lots to people hehea :D
Angus, could you do a video for changing filament. Specifically, going from a high temp filament back to a low temp one. Like Taulman Bridge back to PLA or PETG to PLA. I find it that I have to do the atomic pull with the Nylon to make sure the nozzle is clear, If I don’t the PLA curls at the tip and doesn’t print right. I might be doing something wrong or just
not aware of how to do it right.
There are a lot of things to add. F.e., decreasing layer height below some threshold results in nozzle melting and wiping previous layer and the quality of print actually starts to drop. In my experience, even 0.1mm feels to low. For a "super fine" prints 0.125mm works great for me (with 0.3 and 0.4mm nozzles).
The low print speed and low jerk/accel. settings are usually more important for a good quality print, than layer height.
Incredibly helpful, Angus -- thank you from a very frustrated FFCP clone owner. :)
Great video! I just want to know that if I print with a larger nozzle what would be the smallest layer height I could do? What percentage of the nozzle size would it be? My printer the Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus has a stock 0.4 mm nozzle and I am printing fairly large parts, like a full-size instrument kind of parts. My printer can get down to 0.1 mm layer height with the stock nozzle, so it's about 25% of the nozzle size. So let's say I get a 0.8 mm nozzle, would the max layer height be 0.2 mm? I would like to know.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Would you recommend a wanhoa duplicator i3 PLUS or Robo 3d r1 Plus
Do any of the slicers let you change the layer height at different heights in the model?
Or automatically change based on the angles of the surfaces like you can do with the better CAM software?
Any tips on how to get a glass smooth bottom layer when using abs.
Angus...great video as always. Good Scottish name too ;) I'm having an issue with setting up my Ender 3 Pro and I believe it relates to the initial layer height setting. Is there a rule of thumb to set the first layer height from rest of the layer heights set in the slicer? I'm getting a beautiful first layer. Then the second layer or third can be rough. To me...the height set between the two is too close, so the nozzle is hitting the previous layer. Sometimes it sorts itself out and by the last layer of the bottom...its beautiful again...sometimes not. If say printing with a 0.4 nozzle and I set the first layer height to 0.25 and the rest to 0.28 I note the second layer can be messy. If I set 0.24 initial layer height it seems less of an issue. I just wondered what the rule of thumb is? Baby stepping can resolve the issue....but I'd like to avoid that as I feel this could be resolved in the slicer. I could play around with settings, but I wondered if you could point me to a resource that explains the rule of thumb for this parameter and also maybe touches on maximum layer height and extrusion width for a given nozzle bore. I'm getting some nice prints, but the second layer being messy after a first really nice layer is annoying me. Hope you can help mate! Thanks in advance and keep up the great work!
I have yet to print with a 0.1 mm layer height, for what I'm doing .2 does the job for me but I'm sure I'll use it at some point (I just hate the waiting time lol)
Angus, Please comment on the relationship between nozzle diameter, layer height and layer width. I keep forgetting the best setting for the nozzle I am using. EG at the moment I am working with a .8 nozzle and printing with steel filled filament. I am getting mixed results with my first layer even though the bed is dead level. Some parts of the print look like gravel while the rest of the print is smooth. Some parts skip and some parts print okay. I know part of it is layer height
What about the 0.3 nozzle?... also... have you done any video regarding the nozzle material? Like brass, stainless steel, copper...
Thanks for the video, Angus! Real question - what jacket is that?! :D
Do you only need to change the layer hight in the slicer or do you need to relevel the bed?
when u use 0.4 Nozzle and 0.1 Layer High what Setting you use? extrusion
width standart settings? on my Printer the Layer gehts more and more
width when i put down my layer high :(
Nice Video BTW =)
Hi Angus. Okay I have a print that I'll want to change colors. In S3D I'm showing at layer 7. My Geeetech MizarS hs a 0.4 nozzle. I know nothing about microns. But I notice the color change point on my touch sreen seems to be at Z1.250 or 1h 5m into the print. It sure would be nice if I could figure out what lawyer is at Z 1.520? Thanks
cant unsee - i cannot stop noticing angus's head moving from left to right like a really quick pendalum.
Like a nodding dog in the back of old cars
can anyone help me with this:
I tried to print at .08 from .4 nozzle after few layers of printing nozzle get choke up
What other settings like retraction, travel speed limit, etc I need to consider
Please help me out here. Can I print 0.1 layer hight with lets say 0.4mm nozzle? Thanks!
Hello Angus, I'm a complete newbie to this whole world of 3D printing, I'm looking at buying the XYZ Nobel 1.0A which is on sale right now, and have watched a number of your videos, Well done by the way! I'm planning on doing my own 40k models and wanted the fine resolution that the SLR can give me. The question is this I've noticed you are using Simplify 3D and MeshMixer, do I need both? It looks like Simplify does everything... What is the best software for building 3D complex models? Thank you.
Opps "SLA" not SLR
Maybe it is my new headset, but did you get a new mic?
Also printing the layer height at a layer diameter such as 0.4mm layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle will lead to bad layer adhesion since the adhesion between the layers are most minmal. But you are right that differences below that like 0.3, 0.2, 0.1mm are minimal between each other. A larger nozzle diameter like a 0.8mm nozzle will lead to better layer adhesion and higher strength due to the fact that the extrusion width is much larger and the part becomes more homogeneous compared to a smaller nozzle.
Any guidance on how nozzle size and layer height affects the quality of overhangs and bridging?
That would have a LOT to do with how the printer cools the material but I find prints with larger nozzles tend to have less quality BUT have much higher strength and print speed. That said like anything else with a little tweaking you can improve the results in troublesome areas.
Just FYI, an .8mm nozzle can have the exact same Zed resolution as a .2mm nozzle. The resolution that's changed is the X and Y.
So what is the lowest layer height you can get out of a .4 mm nozzle? And what gives the best quality with it (if you don't care about time)? And what is the largest layer height? I am guessing .4 mm since that's the size of the nozzle?
Good explanation, i would add that layer heights beyond 100 micron although possible is not reasonable because of the differences that is seen. I'm not sure of what companies are using the tactics of selling a printers based on its capable Z Height resolution, either way, if a manufacturer wants to put a claim to a printers capabilities i see no problem with that, just keep in mind like Angus has said, more than layer height needs to be considered when purchasing a printer and layer heights beyond 100 microns .1mm is rarely done nor needed, filament diameter is also very important as it can mean the difference between printing thin walls or thick walls within your object. Good Job Angus
can you talk about the ratio between nozzle diameter and layer height?
is there a formula for min max?
what should i do with the speed?
This is a pretty complex topic when you dig into the technical details, and everyone will tell you something different, but here are some basic rules that are "good enough":
* Keep your layer height to no more than 70-75% of your nozzle diameter.
* There's no real rule for minimum layer height, but practically speaking there's seldom a reason to go below 0.1mm and with larger nozzles you're probably best off thinking "25% of nozzle width is as low as I should go."
* ...and sticking with the above progression, a layer height of about 50% your nozzle width tends to be a "best of both worlds" setting for speed-vs-quality.
* Print speeds are too variable to really have a rule for beyond "if you're having problems with the print and/or print quality, slow down." This ties in with layer height - for the most part - only because min and max's are more likely to be problematic in some way.
...and having said the above, let the "you're an idiot," "that's not at all right," "it's really more like," and similar comments about how I'm wrong begin! :O
My vote is for extrusion multiplier video if you are asking :) :)
Is it true that you can’t have a greater layer height than your nozzle diameter? Can’t the printer increase the flow rate to make it work?
Hi, Is there any way to use combination of different nozzle diameters installed in a dual extruder setup so that we can reduce printing time without losing outer surface finish ..
Sure can, just need a slicer that allows you to input those different parameters, like Simplify3D or Ideamaker.
Well i use the e3d volcano with a .8 nossle. Layer hight of .2 and width is at 0.45. With really good quality just as if i would print with the .4 nossle. But i never get clogs. But i can print low quality high speeds aswell:P I usually print with a width of 0.9 and a 0.2 hight if the part allows it.
One thing I would add is how to determine the maximum layer height by your nozzle size - ie a 040mm nozzle can't do 0400 layers
I do mention that you can't use a layer height beyond your nozzle diameter as one of the last points ;)
I have done 400 micron prints on the up box though which has a 400micron nozzle - they do work, but 350 microns seems to be the magic number for super fast prints that still look half decent.
+Maker's Muse ok I thought it was 70% nozzle diameter was max layer
Dude, there is NO WAY that part had any strength to it whatsoever. Printing at .4mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle has a contact cross section of about 1% assuming the amount being extruded equals actual .4mm layer height. I suppose you could increase your extrusion rate >200% pushing more filament....but you would have to increase your temps and slow down your print to avoid lack of fusion. But at a certain point you might as well just lower the layer height and get speed back.
. On another note. I see your upping your graphics game. I like it.
Exactly! This is why I thought the best practice recommendation was like 70-80% of nozzle diameter. So on my .60 nozzle i wont go above .5 layers and I think thats too high. for the .40 i'd say .3 to .35 max..
+jeevesme I think there's enough debate around this to test it in a video! Yep increasing your extrusion multiplier / flow rate may help, not sure how the UP BOX does it but the parts don't fall apart in your hands.
Does you're Nozzle diameter ever effect the best "perfect" nozzle height?
if not I can't seem to understand why it wouldn't.
Any thoughts?
+Edward Lopez yes it absolutely does! A larger nozzle is capable of higher layer heights, up to ~ the size. Eg a 0.8mm nozzle could print up to 0.6mm layers
Good
Hey, a 0.2mm nozzle does not necessary have to move more than a 0.4mm nozzle to fill the same area. I have a 0.2mm nozzle on both of my printers and they are perfectly happy with extrusion widths of 0.5mm (which I normally use) or even 1.0mm. The nozzle diameter only dictates you the lower bound of extrusion width and upper bound of layer height. 0.2mm nozzles are great... they can print really fine structures (like 0.25mm) but also 1mm thick lines if you want it fast and not so sharp. With a extrusion width much bigger than the nozzle diameter, you can even have layer heights little thicker than the nozzle diameter (like 0.75mm width and 0.3mm layer height width a 0.2mm nozzle). Slic3r will try to prevent you from doing that, but there is no problem with setting the wrong nozzle diameter in Slic3r anyway. The nozzle diameter setting will not have any influence on the print at all, it is just used for plausibility checks.
Sorry I'm at a loss, how can a .4 nozzle print at a .1 layer height?
Joey Leung .4 is the min surface area where .1 is just hight. So think of nozzle diameter like a peace of paper. the hight is very small but the top is huge. As you reduce your nozzle size you are reducing the surfaces area of the paper or making the paper smaller. But the hight of the paper is the same.
So would the layer height be like stacking more pieces of paper on?
The thread of plastic squishes at it's extruded, the slicer puts bigger gaps between the lines of the toolpath for thinner layer heights
Anyone know where to get a legit Kossel Delta 3d printer kits, all I can find is sketchy kits on ebay from china.
I recently came across a 3D Printing Column that pretty much stated (claimed) that the usable "Layer Heights" you can use are dependent on your nozzle size.
The thinnest layer height could be no less than 1/4 the size of your nozzle (assuming your printer is capable of printing at .1mm or less), and the thickest (usable) no more than 3/4 the size of your nozzle.
Although this is not necessarily a bad rule-of-thumb, is it a legit rule, (assuming a person doesn't want to run a set of test prints at different thicknesses) ?? Your thoughts.
It's more of a guide. You get diminishing returns going to stupidly fine layers, it's a bit like trying to be accurate with a crayon. Conversely if your nozzle is 0.4mm then the material being extruded will start to waver and lay down innaccurately at layer heights approaching 0.4 and beyond.
What days do you usually stream on? I would like to join sometime.
Sunday 12PM or 9PM AEST - I will be scheduling them in advance using the Live Event feature on RUclips from now on.
+Maker's Muse ok, thanks and keep up the great work!
Angus, just received a special tester item from up to review, wondered if you would want some photos to do a review on it ?
I'll shoot you a PM - I think I know what you're talking about :)
+Maker's Muse ok will check them out if not my email is henshawdann@icloud.com
So does that mean the lower the layer height, the more the filament would kinda be squished and squashed with the layer under it?
There is less filament extruded when you have a lower layer height.
@@NotLikeMe443 ok, I got your point.
Hey Angus, where are you located? I'm in Adelaide.
Syd mate :)
+Maker's Muse aha damn. I would love to work with you on your 3d printing adventures. I've been diy printing for a couple years now. Your channel is coming along very nicely! Well done
Cheers! Well I did just find out about the Adelaide Makerfaire later in the year... so might make that!
+Maker's Muse awesome! Well if you're coming, I'll see you there! :D
keep your head still youre triggering my motion sickness
Cura 5.0 makes smaller nozzles obsolete with variable line width.
new intro :)
Special 3DP101 intro :)
I wish I'd seen this sooner. I accidentally set my prints to 2mm instead of .2mm and couldn't figure out for the life of me what was wrong using a. 4mm nozzle.
What about extrusion multiplier? Don't really know what that is..
That'd make a great topic for a future vid! It can be pretty confusing
It's a way to hack your e-steps for those too clueless to calibrate properly.
On behalf of the 0.2mm Nozzle:
They clog way easier then 0.4mm Nozzle - I used a 0.2 for small parts, which worked quiet fine, but I wouldn't recommend them for large parts, because the danger of clogging.
E3D directly contradict you on this one with regards to layer height Angus, they claim in their volcano videos that taller layers make much stronger parts.
We're you thinking about layers below a certain limit? Have you tried 1mm layers? From my experience I'd side with E3D, fat layers are really hard to separate.
Yes they must be referring to hugely coarse layers! I have never gone beyond 0.4mm layers, a 1mm layer would require something like a 1.2mm diameter nozzle which is only really possible on the volcano hot ends. I haven't really noticed any difference in strength between models printed at 100microns vs 300microns.
a micron 1/1000 of a millimeter. can a printer do that
No, there'll be a tolerance limit. Plus or minus 50 microns perhaps, for a desktop machine.
Actual prints, rather than slicer estimates (renders), would have been better.
Micron is NOT 0.1
You sure do move around a lot when you speak.
I subcribe if you talk slower