Just recently found your channel and have spent the last couple days catching up on the whole charger series. Just want to say that this build is very inspirational to me, and thank you for documenting it. Im 23, and i bought a 1970 Challenger a couple years ago to build in a similar fashion to what you’re doing. Lack of experience has had me very intimidated by the project but videos like this help to give me ideas and confidence to follow through with my vision. Im finally in a place now where i can start on the build in a few months and i will definently be looking back on these videos for inspiration, so thank you! You deserve many more subscribers and views than you’re currently getting, hoping that comes to you soon👌🏼
Id leave my car with these guy for 6 months if I could afford it man I can't wait for full floating 9 inch with a lot more traction never owned a open diff till now I swapped a 6.0 in two a 1984 Cadillac that 7.5" open diff is tragedy's waiting to happen shoves hole car to the left lane no problem a lot quicker than down the road that's for shure
Hey, beautiful video and production! Glad I found this channel. One thing, that Watts link is backwards, so either dial in lots of understeer, or avoid any bumps mid-corner. Keep on building, that looks like a beautiful ride!
@@WillometMotorFab The center pivot should be mounted to the chassis, and the ends of the arms to the axle. Both ways work the same with the body level, but when it rolls the axle mounted pivot causes the axle to move side to side when a bump is encountered.
I understand. I’ve yet to see a watts link mounted in the way you describe, but it sounds interesting. This setup has plenty of pivot room across all the range of travel, including full bump on one side and full droop on the opposite and the axle remains centered and square.
Hi David: I saw one of your videos for the first time 3 days ago and have been binge watching ever since. Depending on what engine controller you are planning for the LS Charger I may have a little homework I've done that might help and I'll share with you. In one of your videos you made a comment about having "scoured" all available suspension options and you decided on CAC; I have also scoured and reached the same conclusion for the 67 Camaro I have owned since 1978 and will pro-tour it over the next couple of years. Great job fabricating and documenting, with the help of your most significant wife. Thanks
Glad you're here! Chassisworks remains one of the few that are focused on the DIYer, and make things pretty modular. Good luck with your project, and tag me on social as you make progress!
Awesome video, so well put and detailed. Nicely done. That Charger is going to be nutty that's for sure. Where did you source that watts link kit if you don't mind me asking?
Great info! I was under the impression that the safety factor of a part should be 3x. Im glad you mentioned that it is 1.5x for steel in your use. It makes sense that the FoS would be different per application. Also, I hope you don't mind if I plug another video. I have learned a lot about car suspension from Garage Fab and his "Suspension Basics" series. I go back to it from time to time for reference. This is the one he did on watts links. ruclips.net/video/irojcSDY1Co/видео.htmlsi=3EgBw_E3lHo08NdS
Safety factors start with the design load, and I think 14ga is what most stamped link arms are made from with added material at the bearing surface. That’s usually my basis for starting with 1/8 and selectively enlarging to 3/16 where it makes sense. Ductile material also gets a pass since it will bend before it breaks. I’m not sure what cast (brittle) stuff needs, but it’s definitely more. I have all that in my Marks Handbook, which is somewhere… Good referral on garage fab! Thanks man.
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Just recently found your channel and have spent the last couple days catching up on the whole charger series. Just want to say that this build is very inspirational to me, and thank you for documenting it. Im 23, and i bought a 1970 Challenger a couple years ago to build in a similar fashion to what you’re doing. Lack of experience has had me very intimidated by the project but videos like this help to give me ideas and confidence to follow through with my vision. Im finally in a place now where i can start on the build in a few months and i will definently be looking back on these videos for inspiration, so thank you! You deserve many more subscribers and views than you’re currently getting, hoping that comes to you soon👌🏼
I wouldn't be surprised if Santa contacted you to upgrade the suspension on his sleigh. Your work is ART, even the stuff you throw away ;)
“Now I have a Watts Link, Ho-Ho-Ho.”
Id leave my car with these guy for 6 months if I could afford it man I can't wait for full floating 9 inch with a lot more traction never owned a open diff till now I swapped a 6.0 in two a 1984 Cadillac that 7.5" open diff is tragedy's waiting to happen shoves hole car to the left lane no problem a lot quicker than down the road that's for shure
That is turning out great! I really dig the build, can't wait to see it driving! Keep up the great work
You and me both! Can’t wait to have it on all fours and rolling.
Looks like a casual suspension upgrade of sorts..... ;) Merry Christmas David!
Pretty standard really. Summers in Rangoon. Luge lessons.
Merry Christmas to y’all too!
Hey, beautiful video and production! Glad I found this channel. One thing, that Watts link is backwards, so either dial in lots of understeer, or avoid any bumps mid-corner. Keep on building, that looks like a beautiful ride!
Glad you found the channel. Welcome. Please tell me what you mean by “backwards.” I’m not following.
@@WillometMotorFab The center pivot should be mounted to the chassis, and the ends of the arms to the axle. Both ways work the same with the body level, but when it rolls the axle mounted pivot causes the axle to move side to side when a bump is encountered.
I understand. I’ve yet to see a watts link mounted in the way you describe, but it sounds interesting. This setup has plenty of pivot room across all the range of travel, including full bump on one side and full droop on the opposite and the axle remains centered and square.
Another good one Dave. I learned a few things. :)
@@joshusername22 thanks dude 👍 glad you enjoyed it
Hi David: I saw one of your videos for the first time 3 days ago and have been binge watching ever since. Depending on what engine controller you are planning for the LS Charger I may have a little homework I've done that might help and I'll share with you. In one of your videos you made a comment about having "scoured" all available suspension options and you decided on CAC; I have also scoured and reached the same conclusion for the 67 Camaro I have owned since 1978 and will pro-tour it over the next couple of years. Great job fabricating and documenting, with the help of your most significant wife. Thanks
Glad you're here! Chassisworks remains one of the few that are focused on the DIYer, and make things pretty modular. Good luck with your project, and tag me on social as you make progress!
Awesome video, so well put and detailed. Nicely done. That Charger is going to be nutty that's for sure. Where did you source that watts link kit if you don't mind me asking?
Glad you enjoyed this one! That kit is from Chassisworks.
The 2006 Durango the family had had a rear Watts link
THAT’S what I was trying to remember. I knew there was a factory one, but couldn’t remember the model.
Great info! I was under the impression that the safety factor of a part should be 3x. Im glad you mentioned that it is 1.5x for steel in your use. It makes sense that the FoS would be different per application. Also, I hope you don't mind if I plug another video. I have learned a lot about car suspension from Garage Fab and his "Suspension Basics" series. I go back to it from time to time for reference. This is the one he did on watts links.
ruclips.net/video/irojcSDY1Co/видео.htmlsi=3EgBw_E3lHo08NdS
Safety factors start with the design load, and I think 14ga is what most stamped link arms are made from with added material at the bearing surface. That’s usually my basis for starting with 1/8 and selectively enlarging to 3/16 where it makes sense. Ductile material also gets a pass since it will bend before it breaks. I’m not sure what cast (brittle) stuff needs, but it’s definitely more. I have all that in my Marks Handbook, which is somewhere…
Good referral on garage fab! Thanks man.
95% of its lifetime, the car will be sitting and not moving at all.
And that’s the ones that see a lot of miles. If sitting still fell into the category of “planned use,” this junk could be made from balsa wood.