Steve Morris has recently done a video on welding badly damaged LS cylinder heads and replacing the valve seats. Seeing that you successfully welded the block for the volvoghini, I think that you would be able to do it. Best of luck with the rebuild!
@@Coombsly Das Risiko besteht darin, dass sich die im elementlegierten Gefüge eingebundenen Wasserstoffatome zu H2-Molekülen und größeren Gruppen zusammenlagern können. Dies führt zu Schmelzzonenrandlunkern. Deshalb ist eine Mindestmaterialtemperatur erforderlich, die es dem Wasserstoff ermöglicht, gleichmäßig verteilt zu bleiben und somit das Gussteil nicht zu beschädigen.
Great to hear you already started making plans for the repairs. Sleeving does seem to be the best option indeed. Specially as it also allows you to salvage that second block. Best of luck, and thanks for sharing!
Hello Peter! I think that cylinder gouge could possibly be welded and rebored with great care taken not to cook the cylinder wall in one spot. You’ll get there mate, all the very best for the future of this build!
You know i have realized that through your channel and the comments i am always learning things. I really enjoy seeing the technical stuff and gaining knowledge.
Mir geht es ähnlich. Als ich den Kommentar über Silizium im Aluminiumgefüge las, habe ich bezüglich des Wasserstoffaspekts im Gefüge geantwortet. Jedoch habe ich bewusst die Möglichkeit außer Acht gelassen, dass auch ein Problem mit der Existenz von SiO2 an diesem Silizium bestehen kann. Wenn sich an SiO2 noch H2 anlagert, resultiert dies in einem Kristallwasserproblem, das eine erhebliche Festigkeitsabnahme und eine hohe nachfolgende Korrosionsrate zur Folge haben kann.
@@UKBUILT Das liegt daran, dass Vibrationen im Ansaugsystem und im Zylinder, wenn das Einlassventil offen ist, bei akustischer Resonanz dazu führen können, dass das Ventil wie eine Fahne im Wind flattert. Ein Druck von +2,7 Bar im Einlass und eine negative Saugkraft von -3 Bar unter dem Ventil entspricht können sich beim Schließen bis zu verzehnfachen. Dann wirken effektiv 60 Bar aus dem Kanal in den Zylinder, dessen Kolben, nur wenige Grad nach dem unteren Totpunkt fast stehend, aus Angst auf die Kurbelwelle schlägt, bevor überhaupt eine Zündung stattgefunden hat.
@@preventor2 Betrachten Sie die Struktur der Ventile. Ein höherer Sitzdruck durch statisch stärkere Ventilfedern ist nicht ratsam. Möglich wäre jedoch die Verwendung von leichteren Ventilen gleicher Form und Volumen, aber mit höherer Festigkeit. Dies könnte allerdings das Risiko von Hochdrehzahleffekten in einen kostspieligen Bereich verschieben. Als nächstes sollte idealerweise die elastische Dehngrenze der Pleuelschrauben unter Berücksichtigung des Kolbenkontaktrisikos am Zylinderkopf beachtet werden. Es wird sehr kostspielig, wenn die Pleuel die Geduld verlieren.
Commenting for the algorithm. Hope you get more exposure and ultimately more adsense revenue to finance the rebuild. Truly appreciate your channel and the content. Keep doing what you do
Most of these blocks that I have seen have broken after the steel sleeves were inserted during assembly. The standard blocks are good up to max. 1200 hp, after that you should rather switch to billet. best regards
Hello Hello From Canada!!! You should contact Dallas Performance to get a set of their ductile iron cylinder sleeves that they use for their billet blocks. Because their blocks should have similar dimensions, the sleeves should be already to be pressed in your block after your machining is done. I hope you have good luck. stay safe, stay healthy and are as happy as you possibly can be in all your future endeavors. Go fast!! 🤘😁👍
Peter... You are some kind of a professor on this jungle of elektronics, controlling everything. I, for myself keep it simple as possible, and most mechanical. 😄
Peter, about polishing out the ports, I think you will find that very polished inlet ports can cause fuel dropout - a little roughness helps the fuel to stay atomised. Exhaust ports, I am not sure! Love what you are doing and I am very excited to see this car running again - maybe you could allow fan funding? I think many people would like to help you on this extremely cool journey.
hey dude, i love your content style. quality audio, nice visuals. no random music playing all the time. in depth views into repairs. when your car broke you didnt just call it a day, you stuck around and got some nice footage for us. cheers from australia
Always enjoy your matter of fact analysis Peter, Whether at a car meet explaining what you are looking at, or here displaying your engineering prowess. Chin up and look forward to hearing the V10 running again. No doubt modified and better......Ivan
Loving this content, you're an inspiration. As far as I'm aware you can reuse that head from the second engine after a slight resurface. As long as it doesn't have drastic peaks, there should be no hot zones during combustion. I've done it with no issues on an M52
Please keep up with the updates, definitely my favourite channel! I learn a lot from them too. Im also going through catastrophic engine failure atm as well so this video is very relatable 🤣 melted two pistons, injector tips, hole in the block and a snapped valve (m57 with hybrid turbos for those wondering) also out budget on it as well so not fun 😅
If you use the cylinder head from the other engine I would try to machine and polish out the scratches. Sharp edges create "starting spots" for detonation. It is best to make them as smooth as possible to reduce risk of knock. the compression rate will be slightly lower which is no problem.
Im Video um 23:00 ist ein Pleullagerbild zu sehen. Es zeigt die Signatur einer sehr hohen materialakustischen Stehwelle auf dem Pleullager, die zwar sichtbar, aber aufgrund ihrer Erzeugung durch eine longitudinale und sehr laute Materialsignatur nicht fühlbar ist. Wird ein Bauteil nicht harmonisch zur Planckmasse multipliziert mit einer Primzahl konstruiert, treten unerwünschte Schwingungen auf, die die Qualität des Rundlaufs und den Wirkungsgrad leicht bis fatal beeinträchtigen können.
That other broken block is a good opportunity to use it as a "practice block" if you use your CNC to bore out your main block. No time like the present to pick up a new skill. The damage to the squish areas on the spare head probably won't interfere with the piston at all, just make sure no sharp edges to cause preignition or break off into FOD. Machinist might say to fill it with weld before surfacing.
Cletus McFarland just recently did a video where a block had significant Damage including crank journals, and it underwent extensive welding and machining after it was machined, the engine was rebuild and send back to service. But really enjoying your videos keep up the good work:))))
wow, quite a lot of work ahead...go on Peter! Amazing that how many different tuning software are needed for this setup! Really hats off for making it work :) Thanks for the video, good one again! :)
Been watching for a few years now and always enjoy the video's. People suggesting you LS swap the 240 MidVo just don't get it. That would be like telling Bad Obsession Motorsport to just put an R1 bike engine in Project Binky. Some people don't understand that doing something different is difficult, but that's part of the challenge that makes it so rewarding.
I enjoyed this video alot. I used to live in Kautokeino Norway. Not far from you. Your accent is similar to English speaking Norwegian people. Thanks for the tech talk. Kind regards Rex in New Zealand
Hey up peter nice to see the rest of the pull down and your upbeat feelings, i think you have got this but will take one long winter and then your beautiful car will be so sorted, good luck mate and looking forward to whatever you show
Great idea to "practice" on the damaged spare block, nothing to loose and to get experience learn from it. I would tidy up the spare head with the slight damage and then decide if it was going to be for the number one engine or the spare engine head, I bet it would be fine. Thanks for putting up these videos, thoroughly enjoy them!. Steve,
Always enjoy your videos and your enthusiasm. Not being an engine builder, but I’d think that any “scratches” or “imperfections” in the squish area could cause Pre-detonation. Please correct me and explain why not.
Different is always interesting. No one else in the world has the same car. This thing is amazing. Too bad it blew up. Thats a bummer but give you more content lol. Thanks for all the vids.
I'm planning to sleave my V10 on my CNC 😎 your blocks in better condition than mine. I had to do alot of research into the piston and liner materials, the pistons are iron coated on the thrust faces. Most people that sleave them run billet uncoated pistons. I was planning to try the standard piston in a ductile iron liner. Some older engines used iron pistons and iron block, the risk is gauling of simular metals. I would be interested to see what you do with yours 👍 Good luck 😎
Bro you are a really engineer mechanic keep it true you are a really petrol head nice to see your videos to keep up with my project cars you are an inspiration for all petrol heads around the world thanks man
Oh man, that's a sorry sight but as seen you in action it's not such huge ordeal to put it back together 😅 it's awesome to see how skills are needed here 😂and great to know pro Mechanic's do exist 😁 Nice Also the old saying goes here, a whole a lot building and many hours spent just to go fast some 6 second's 🤣🤟💪
Dare to be different! Insane project considering all the electronics. It should be a weapon when you get it up and running again. Keep up the good work, thanks for sharing :D
I would contact a couple of tuners that already have set records with TT Lamborghini's Like UGR racing in the states, they go from 800 to 3000 hp they also sell components and have a lot of knowledge on solutions so you dont drop a valve again, good luck always enjoy your videos,
UGR would not help me at all. The do not sell any components or give out any info. They only do work on cars in their own workshop if you send a Lamborghini or Audi R8 to them.
Peter, my dear fellow, if you made that car with your own hands (as I know you did, because I watched it happed) you can fix pretty much anything :) :)
Be careful with the transmission tune, Have to be careful with clutch pressure's/timing. I build these transmissions and there were some tunes from very well known Vendors here in the states that were cranking the clutch pressure's too high and causing the Dodson Billet large clutch basket to break. If you don't have it the newest Dodson Clutch setup uses Springs in between the clutch plates to help with high rpm shifting/clutch plate drag. Driveability on a Dodson 10/10 clutch with these wavy springs is 100% like stock as well.
I always click the button to watch, thanks for your hard work anyway I always think you are crazy for doing what you do but damn you always seem to pull it off it's fun to watch I miss your 2jz Supra those were awesome videos.keep up the good work it's inspiring thanks.
Man, I know we don't get to see it but it must have been devastating working so hard on getting the car ready and running just to ruin the engine like that, especially when its no fault of your own. Glad to hear the project is gonna keep moving forward, have fun with it ^^
My friend had his Aluminum Keith Black hemi welded back together after throwing a rod through the block, no problem welding that head back together, I would put sleeves in the block to repair it, make it stronger
I have seen some crazy cylinder head repairs done over here in the US. huge amount of welding done and it doesn't seem to compromise the aluminium. Steve Morris race engines, Headgames, pete Harrold race engine to name a few shops that post their work for people to see. Hope that helps. your build is awesome
I'm sorry to see that damage, I can feel the pain. I think if you can machine the block yourself maybe is doable, otherwise I tend to chose an used engine. With that debris running everywhere it's risky without changing like everything and I think will be too much expensive. Rick from REPerformance have parts for sale, get in touch with him Wish you luck man!
Very interesting, scary how much damage there is, but I am sure you will get it going again and it will be awesome. I wouldn't be watching if it were an LS, that wouldn't interest me at all. Good luck Peter, best wishes and I hope you are enjoying the challenge!
Im Video bei Minute 8:00 wird die Welle zum Differential der Vorderachse mit zwei Lagern im Motorblock geführt. Oberhalb der Welle, im Schwingungsmodus 0,75 zu 0,25, befindet sich der defekte Zylinder. Die Frage ist, ob die Welle ein Kreuzgelenk oder ein Kugelgleichlaufgelenk im Lastverlauf vor dem Differential besitzt.
I'm glad you stick with Audi/Lambo V10 instead of venture to another engine, although if you ever wanna venture to other V8, I would suggest the Volvo V8 from S80/XC90. Also, doesn't steel/iron sleeve would required different piston ring compare to alusil sleeve that it originally came with? I would love to see you install the sleeve yourself, heat the block up + cool the sleeve down & mate them together, will make epic video! I would also love to see you buy a damaged block to build it up! That's going to make interesting video! I think you should look for stronger valve if possible? To avoid same issue happen again.
Your channel is one of the few where I never skip a video. Just cool car content, no nonsense. Good luck with the engine rebuild!
Steve Morris has recently done a video on welding badly damaged LS cylinder heads and replacing the valve seats. Seeing that you successfully welded the block for the volvoghini, I think that you would be able to do it. Best of luck with the rebuild!
Steve Morris also builds v10 lambo engines, you might reach out to him. He's in Michigan in the US
That was a billet head though.
Issues with modern engines are that when casting parts they tend to use silicon within the mix, I think welding will be a pain
@@Coombsly Das Risiko besteht darin, dass sich die im elementlegierten Gefüge eingebundenen Wasserstoffatome zu H2-Molekülen und größeren Gruppen zusammenlagern können. Dies führt zu Schmelzzonenrandlunkern. Deshalb ist eine Mindestmaterialtemperatur erforderlich, die es dem Wasserstoff ermöglicht, gleichmäßig verteilt zu bleiben und somit das Gussteil nicht zu beschädigen.
Seems like the V8 guys in the US weld head fairly often. For instance Brand Racing recently made a video with him welding a head for weingartner.
Been watching for a few years now. Love the channel. So refreshing to see someone who isn't just shoving a LS into everything.
Nothing but mad respect for such a complex build!
Great to hear you already started making plans for the repairs. Sleeving does seem to be the best option indeed. Specially as it also allows you to salvage that second block. Best of luck, and thanks for sharing!
Thank you for not doing another LS, LS swaps get so boring. This is why I watch you! The master
I love it when people go their own way, it's a pleasure to watch You from Poland :)
Keep going with the V10's! Its nice to see engines that is not everywhere. Allways enjoy your projects
Hello Peter! I think that cylinder gouge could possibly be welded and rebored with great care taken not to cook the cylinder wall in one spot. You’ll get there mate, all the very best for the future of this build!
You know i have realized that through your channel and the comments i am always learning things. I really enjoy seeing the technical stuff and gaining knowledge.
Mir geht es ähnlich. Als ich den Kommentar über Silizium im Aluminiumgefüge las, habe ich bezüglich des Wasserstoffaspekts im Gefüge geantwortet. Jedoch habe ich bewusst die Möglichkeit außer Acht gelassen, dass auch ein Problem mit der Existenz von SiO2 an diesem Silizium bestehen kann. Wenn sich an SiO2 noch H2 anlagert, resultiert dies in einem Kristallwasserproblem, das eine erhebliche Festigkeitsabnahme und eine hohe nachfolgende Korrosionsrate zur Folge haben kann.
Love your videos and your cars. Thank you for showing them to us that aren't from Sweden 👍😎🇬🇧
Ofcourse we comment to keep u motivated!!! Keeppushing!!!
Quality, knowledgeable and honest content. Every time, thanks.
Sad look of the engine 😢
Fantastic that you stick with Audi/Lamborghini! Swapping for LS is done too many times already.
I am the biggest LS fan ever and I could not agree more
@@LabergemusicV10 Audi makes this project more interesting than had it been an LS project.
@@Franksey180 yes, that's what I was saying :)
never skip your vids such good content. love the old volvos.
The Gen 2 cylinder head was known to drop valves. If you're going to reuse the heads make sure you reguide and install upgraded springs.
Yeah I have heard this, valve float at high rpm?
@@UKBUILT Das liegt daran, dass Vibrationen im Ansaugsystem und im Zylinder, wenn das Einlassventil offen ist, bei akustischer Resonanz dazu führen können, dass das Ventil wie eine Fahne im Wind flattert. Ein Druck von +2,7 Bar im Einlass und eine negative Saugkraft von -3 Bar unter dem Ventil entspricht können sich beim Schließen bis zu verzehnfachen. Dann wirken effektiv 60 Bar aus dem Kanal in den Zylinder, dessen Kolben, nur wenige Grad nach dem unteren Totpunkt fast stehend, aus Angst auf die Kurbelwelle schlägt, bevor überhaupt eine Zündung stattgefunden hat.
@@Reiner_Markenfreund Sehr interessant 👍 danke 😎
@Reiner_Markenfreund higher seat pressure may remedy this situation, or these factors are not easily overcome by simply some stronger springs?
@@preventor2 Betrachten Sie die Struktur der Ventile. Ein höherer Sitzdruck durch statisch stärkere Ventilfedern ist nicht ratsam. Möglich wäre jedoch die Verwendung von leichteren Ventilen gleicher Form und Volumen, aber mit höherer Festigkeit. Dies könnte allerdings das Risiko von Hochdrehzahleffekten in einen kostspieligen Bereich verschieben. Als nächstes sollte idealerweise die elastische Dehngrenze der Pleuelschrauben unter Berücksichtigung des Kolbenkontaktrisikos am Zylinderkopf beachtet werden. Es wird sehr kostspielig, wenn die Pleuel die Geduld verlieren.
Commenting for the algorithm. Hope you get more exposure and ultimately more adsense revenue to finance the rebuild.
Truly appreciate your channel and the content.
Keep doing what you do
Please keep on doing what you’re doing, really love your videos and your work, nobody does anything as cool and different as you👍🏻
You have to keep that piston as an art piece
The head also, looks so sick with the valve stuck in the intake.
Yes i will. With the broken valve in the hole of piston!
Most of these blocks that I have seen have broken after the steel sleeves were inserted during assembly. The standard blocks are good up to max. 1200 hp, after that you should rather switch to billet. best regards
Hello Hello From Canada!!! You should contact Dallas Performance to get a set of their ductile iron cylinder sleeves that they use for their billet blocks. Because their blocks should have similar dimensions, the sleeves should be already to be pressed in your block after your machining is done. I hope you have good luck. stay safe, stay healthy and are as happy as you possibly can be in all your future endeavors. Go fast!!
🤘😁👍
Peter... You are some kind of a professor on this jungle of elektronics, controlling everything. I, for myself keep it simple as possible, and most mechanical. 😄
Peter, about polishing out the ports, I think you will find that very polished inlet ports can cause fuel dropout - a little roughness helps the fuel to stay atomised. Exhaust ports, I am not sure! Love what you are doing and I am very excited to see this car running again - maybe you could allow fan funding? I think many people would like to help you on this extremely cool journey.
Listening to this video about multiple ecu’s while sharpening my chainsaw blade.
hey dude, i love your content style. quality audio, nice visuals. no random music playing all the time. in depth views into repairs. when your car broke you didnt just call it a day, you stuck around and got some nice footage for us. cheers from australia
Always enjoy your matter of fact analysis Peter, Whether at a car meet explaining what you are looking at, or here displaying your engineering prowess. Chin up and look forward to hearing the V10 running again. No doubt modified and better......Ivan
Now you got a Lamborghini R8 Puzzle! I would cry and run away, but you just keep on - great attitude, professional.😀
Loving this content, you're an inspiration. As far as I'm aware you can reuse that head from the second engine after a slight resurface. As long as it doesn't have drastic peaks, there should be no hot zones during combustion. I've done it with no issues on an M52
Please keep up with the updates, definitely my favourite channel! I learn a lot from them too. Im also going through catastrophic engine failure atm as well so this video is very relatable 🤣 melted two pistons, injector tips, hole in the block and a snapped valve (m57 with hybrid turbos for those wondering) also out budget on it as well so not fun 😅
If you use the cylinder head from the other engine I would try to machine and polish out the scratches.
Sharp edges create "starting spots" for detonation.
It is best to make them as smooth as possible to reduce risk of knock.
the compression rate will be slightly lower which is no problem.
Im Video um 23:00 ist ein Pleullagerbild zu sehen. Es zeigt die Signatur einer sehr hohen materialakustischen Stehwelle auf dem Pleullager, die zwar sichtbar, aber aufgrund ihrer Erzeugung durch eine longitudinale und sehr laute Materialsignatur nicht fühlbar ist. Wird ein Bauteil nicht harmonisch zur Planckmasse multipliziert mit einer Primzahl konstruiert, treten unerwünschte Schwingungen auf, die die Qualität des Rundlaufs und den Wirkungsgrad leicht bis fatal beeinträchtigen können.
That sucks, my sympathies. Same thing happened to me on my XKR, dropped a valve in #3 .....half the valve seat ended up in #7, very messy.
That other broken block is a good opportunity to use it as a "practice block" if you use your CNC to bore out your main block. No time like the present to pick up a new skill.
The damage to the squish areas on the spare head probably won't interfere with the piston at all, just make sure no sharp edges to cause preignition or break off into FOD. Machinist might say to fill it with weld before surfacing.
I always look forward to your videos. Nobody on YT is doing it like you.
Cletus McFarland just recently did a video where a block had significant Damage including crank journals, and it underwent extensive welding and machining after it was machined, the engine was rebuild and send back to service. But really enjoying your videos keep up the good work:))))
Another great video and a lot information about how everything is setup.
In which is a lot to maintain and control.
It’s mind blowing and inspirational how much you do.
Gives myself confidence to learn more and it’s always entertaining to watch your videos too
wow, quite a lot of work ahead...go on Peter! Amazing that how many different tuning software are needed for this setup! Really hats off for making it work :) Thanks for the video, good one again! :)
Definitely one of my favourite YT channels and such an under rated channel too!!
Been watching for a few years now and always enjoy the video's.
People suggesting you LS swap the 240 MidVo just don't get it. That would be like telling Bad Obsession Motorsport to just put an R1 bike engine in Project Binky. Some people don't understand that doing something different is difficult, but that's part of the challenge that makes it so rewarding.
Hi Peter. Try Ricky Elder at RE Performance - Swindon UK.
yes in the last video he posted he had 2 v10 engines sitting that needed work but were for sale
Thanks for showing all the computer software you use. That's quite a complex set of systems you have to manage. Good luck with the rebuild!
I enjoyed this video alot. I used to live in Kautokeino Norway. Not far from you. Your accent is similar to English speaking Norwegian people. Thanks for the tech talk. Kind regards Rex in New Zealand
Hey up peter nice to see the rest of the pull down and your upbeat feelings, i think you have got this but will take one long winter and then your beautiful car will be so sorted, good luck mate and looking forward to whatever you show
Great idea to "practice" on the damaged spare block, nothing to loose and to get experience learn from it.
I would tidy up the spare head with the slight damage and then decide if it was going to be for the number one engine or the spare engine head, I bet it would be fine.
Thanks for putting up these videos, thoroughly enjoy them!.
Steve,
Keep up the good work 👍
I enjoy your videos 😎
I also need to repair my V10
Looking forward to seeing you repair this engine, love your videos! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for all the insights into the software and connections side. I feel like this one always comes short with many car content creators
Synd, hoppas att du fortsätter bästa bygg serien på youtube
Great as always. Explanations and honesty.
The CNC Mill looks a little too small for Sleeve work on such a big engine but it's so close
Always enjoy your videos and your enthusiasm. Not being an engine builder, but I’d think that any “scratches” or “imperfections” in the squish area could cause Pre-detonation. Please correct me and explain why not.
This car is so cool, I love your ingenuity. Keep it up.
Good luck with the repairs and rebuild! It's an amazing car.
I think you should saw both blocks in half and weld the good cylinders back together like a Swedish Allen Millyard :P great video, thanks
unfortunate that it happened. but watching you for several years so far, I know you will make it better!
Different is always interesting. No one else in the world has the same car. This thing is amazing. Too bad it blew up. Thats a bummer but give you more content lol. Thanks for all the vids.
Ahhh,, nothing some welding and an anglegrinder cant fix,, 😅👍
Thanks for sharing Peter,, 💖🙏💖
I'm planning to sleave my V10 on my CNC 😎 your blocks in better condition than mine. I had to do alot of research into the piston and liner materials, the pistons are iron coated on the thrust faces. Most people that sleave them run billet uncoated pistons. I was planning to try the standard piston in a ductile iron liner. Some older engines used iron pistons and iron block, the risk is gauling of simular metals.
I would be interested to see what you do with yours 👍
Good luck 😎
really enjoy your channel, very interesting and your engineering is next level, very impressive !!!
Helt rätt Peter att du går din egen väg och personligen använder du helt rätt motor!
Altid trevligt att få följa ditt bygge 😊👍
All the best in the fix. Interesting video!
Thank you for showing what software tools you are using. That is indeed complex, having to switch back and forth between so many of them.
so cool seeing all the ECU stuff..
My head hurts looking at all that software. Running a single instance of VIDA is hard enough. Much respect.
Bro you are a really engineer mechanic keep it true you are a really petrol head nice to see your videos to keep up with my project cars you are an inspiration for all petrol heads around the world thanks man
Oh man, that's a sorry sight but as seen you in action it's not such huge ordeal to put it back together 😅 it's awesome to see how skills are needed here 😂and great to know pro Mechanic's do exist 😁 Nice
Also the old saying goes here, a whole a lot building and many hours spent just to go fast some 6 second's 🤣🤟💪
Dare to be different! Insane project considering all the electronics. It should be a weapon when you get it up and running again. Keep up the good work, thanks for sharing :D
Hur i hellvete kan man ha ordning på allt!! Man blir så imponerad!! Lycka till med allt...
Sorry to hear that ! 😔
I would contact a couple of tuners that already have set records with TT Lamborghini's Like UGR racing in the states, they go from 800 to 3000 hp they also sell components and have a lot of knowledge on solutions so you dont drop a valve again, good luck always enjoy your videos,
UGR would not help me at all. The do not sell any components or give out any info. They only do work on cars in their own workshop if you send a Lamborghini or Audi R8 to them.
@@PeterBjorck Try Klasen Motors from Germany
T1 or cico, ams are also quite good.
Good luck Peter!
Peter, my dear fellow, if you made that car with your own hands (as I know you did, because I watched it happed) you can fix pretty much anything :) :)
Big suck on the engine damage man. I am sure you'll build a new one and it'll be even better though. love
Be careful with the transmission tune, Have to be careful with clutch pressure's/timing. I build these transmissions and there were some tunes from very well known Vendors here in the states that were cranking the clutch pressure's too high and causing the Dodson Billet large clutch basket to break.
If you don't have it the newest Dodson Clutch setup uses Springs in between the clutch plates to help with high rpm shifting/clutch plate drag. Driveability on a Dodson 10/10 clutch with these wavy springs is 100% like stock as well.
Seems like very exiting and interesting videos to come over winter :)
Tack för ännu en lärorik episod ser redan fram i mot nästa💯🌟
I always click the button to watch, thanks for your hard work anyway I always think you are crazy for doing what you do but damn you always seem to pull it off it's fun to watch I miss your 2jz Supra those were awesome videos.keep up the good work it's inspiring thanks.
Hope you get it sorted 👍🏻
I love the fact you said the 5.0 even fire sounds better, totally agree. Both are cool engines though.
Man, I know we don't get to see it but it must have been devastating working so hard on getting the car ready and running just to ruin the engine like that, especially when its no fault of your own.
Glad to hear the project is gonna keep moving forward, have fun with it ^^
You are master mechanic, nice car.
Your a good builder of cars I liked your Built Toyota Supra the black one it was amazing 👏 you should buy another supercar
My friend had his Aluminum Keith Black hemi welded back together after throwing a rod through the block, no problem welding that head back together, I would put sleeves in the block to repair it, make it stronger
Sorry to hear about the failure! An opportunity to make it better than before :)
I have seen some crazy cylinder head repairs done over here in the US. huge amount of welding done and it doesn't seem to compromise the aluminium.
Steve Morris race engines, Headgames, pete Harrold race engine to name a few shops that post their work for people to see. Hope that helps. your build is awesome
I really like the close ups
I'm sorry to see that damage, I can feel the pain. I think if you can machine the block yourself maybe is doable, otherwise I tend to chose an used engine. With that debris running everywhere it's risky without changing like everything and I think will be too much expensive.
Rick from REPerformance have parts for sale, get in touch with him
Wish you luck man!
R8 1:1 from Finland, i think they use the same V10 as you, put a message to them and ask if they have some parts you need.
15:30 - maybe add some PC in to the car so you could just have all of the ECUs connected to that and then use that to manage everything.
be strong don't give up you will soon find a very nice engine at a good price!!!😊
Intressant video som vanligt, 👍🏻
Very interesting, scary how much damage there is, but I am sure you will get it going again and it will be awesome. I wouldn't be watching if it were an LS, that wouldn't interest me at all. Good luck Peter, best wishes and I hope you are enjoying the challenge!
Im Video bei Minute 8:00 wird die Welle zum Differential der Vorderachse mit zwei Lagern im Motorblock geführt. Oberhalb der Welle, im Schwingungsmodus 0,75 zu 0,25, befindet sich der defekte Zylinder. Die Frage ist, ob die Welle ein Kreuzgelenk oder ein Kugelgleichlaufgelenk im Lastverlauf vor dem Differential besitzt.
Sleeving that block yourself would be really cool!
...in 5 years you'll machine billet blocs and heads ;-)
Salute mate, love your videos!
Have fun and keep truckin! Funny to see that valve lodged in its hole 😂
Best builder in sweden 😊
Laser hone the block and run custom piston wo7ld be cheapest option.
Keep up the videos they are awesome dude.
I'm glad you stick with Audi/Lambo V10 instead of venture to another engine, although if you ever wanna venture to other V8, I would suggest the Volvo V8 from S80/XC90.
Also, doesn't steel/iron sleeve would required different piston ring compare to alusil sleeve that it originally came with?
I would love to see you install the sleeve yourself, heat the block up + cool the sleeve down & mate them together, will make epic video!
I would also love to see you buy a damaged block to build it up! That's going to make interesting video!
I think you should look for stronger valve if possible? To avoid same issue happen again.
I should imagine Peter will be going down the Custom Forged Piston/Rod route for this Engine!
This one my favorite channels on RUclips, any news on the R8 case?