Building a High Quality Garden Room The Norwegian Way
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- Опубликовано: 2 дек 2023
- Building Plans: dieter.me/product/shed-and-ca...
Building a high quality garden room / shed takes more time than people think. This small house is built just like a ordinary house. 
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Note! This is part one of two videos.
Looking forward to part 2!
I was wondering, looked like you forgot to put it in the garden :)
Hi, looking forward for part two :)
Hope you find the time for part 2 😊
@@cormacatcyclesierranevada1451 It's ready in a couple of days :)
This small building is already built and insulated better than any Australian home. Super quality
This is a far better build than housing in the UK. Beautiful job.
Great pride in quality build with details.Take the time to build it right , it has your name on it. Well done.
Thanks 👍
I like the way you use screws and a hammer to lever things into alignment.
this is the best quality easy to follow guide ever, no fluff no nonsense just add a material and measurement list and your good to go
Wow! Meticulously built, I like your craftsmanship!
Thank you very much!
Yrkesstolthet, inspirerende for meg som hobby snekker!
Good to see a perfectionist at work. Currently working on an extension with a firm here in Amsterdam and it’s a messy project.
In case anyone from America wonders. Yes, that IS 2" timbers. Ours ar 48mm thick when 'adjusted' and planed, not 35mm. A 2x4" is 48x98mm.
Great job!
I'm working on something similar and I added metal net on the bottom of the floor as protection against rodents.
Waiting for part 2!
I really liked how you showed your mistake and didn’t try to hide it, we all make mistakes, I find you learn more from your own mistakes than from just being told how to do something by others. (That’s my excuse for how many mistakes I’ve made myself 😊)
There are no progress without mistakes :)
Vakkert. Takk for at du deler mange år med kunnskap komprimert i en 15-minutters video. Bruker denne som referanse når jeg skal lage noe lignende.
I found another perfection maniac as me:). Some will say this is over engineering, I would say this is normal.
Thank You!
@@DieterSchneider Cheers.
For Europe, this normal, for the USA, this is over engineering 😀😁👍🏽
In the USA even houses are not that well built 😅
Hello Dieter .Looking forward to part 2!
Awesome work Dieter - very well built
Thank You!
This is a great construction project really well done.
Love it! Lots of little tips that I wouldn’t have thought of.
Glad it was helpful!
Beautiful work!!
Thank you
it's so nice to see someone else working!!!😅
hey Dieter_ idk if you alredy have. but can you make some videos as clear instructed as this one.
on just window framing. cheers
Thanks for the video, found plenty of ideas that I could have used a year ago! Well, now I know for the future!
Thanks
Very well done, nice attention to floor details.
Thank you very much!
Compared to the insulation I've just had fitted in my loft that one is light years better!
Nice Scandinavian build style.. Good work.
Thank you
Not Scandinavian - Norwegian.
Das ist der einzig richtige Weg um holzrahmenbau richtig umzusetzen. Alles andere ist Pfusch. Über die Dämmung kann man streiten. 👍👍🇩🇪
Ahh, imagine having that much space to be able to get on with a job.
Thank you! 🙏🏻
Amazing video. 👍🏻
Bra jobba!
Artig å se noen gjør ordentlig arbeid!
Alltid kul när du släpper nya videos. Mycket lärorika! Mvh
Takker 🙂
Great Work.
Thanks!
Hi Dieter, I have been a long time follower & just to satisfy my curiosity I would like to know when you became a full time builder/woodworker, because I kind of remember that you had a quite different profession. (Love the care and precision you put in your 'sheds'!)
Top quality build ..omg obsessive as me on detail ...lack of vents only issue I can see as window vents never enough ... Well done ✅
Thanks, vents will be added 👍
Nice!
Hi Dieter! Everything very neatly done, however for a Garden room - situated in nature - I would presume that all insulated&covered structures, including the floor, walls and ceiling be constructed in a manner which is 100% mice- and rat-proof. This necessitates the use of high-density thin metal nets between the insulation and cover material to avoid the intrusion of rodents. I didn't notice you taking any precautionary measures against rodents. How have you solved the problem of rodents?
Looks awesome, really well built -- I love the details in the base. Elevated, plus sheeting, insulated and air sealed. Can I ask, do you vent the ceiling? Looking forward to the next video to see how you insulate the roof.
Thanks. There are ventilation, but not like a vented attic. It's a "warm" roof. It has a vapour barrier that let any moisture in the insulation out. Then there is a air gap above to make sure there is good air flow. I will show this in the next video.
Never seen something more overbuilt than this. Love it! I love people who overdo things just for their own happiness.
Loads of really useful tips. Great stuff.
Thank You. Glad you think so!
Explains a lot of things in my parents house it was a Scandy modular house built for oil workers in Scotland in the 70s.
How do you plan to move it outside once done?
Nice work! What is the type of sheating you are using on the outside of the walls?
Hi Dieter,
I enjoyed this video very much. You are a professional. But why not use vapor barrier foil and vapor barrier foil? This prevents moisture from entering your insulation material.
Thanks! The insulation is fairly thin so it's not needed as the wood fiber boards are hygroscopic, and the wind barrier let the moisutre out. Compared to a house, this building may be unheated in periods so a vapour barrier can actually cause damage as you may get condensation on the inside. In a modern heated house with 30-50 cm insulation and balanced ventilation systems a vapour barrier is essential.
Nice and precise build, love it! Could you tell me what the sheeting is you use for the floor and walls?
Thanks, it's a woodfiber sheathing with a bitumen layer at one side. It works as a wind barrier. Very common on wooden buildings here in Norway
@@DieterSchneiderthank you for the information
Way over built.
I like it!!!!
Kan du avsløre materialprisen for bygget (veiledende pris for privatperson) ?
Er elektriker men er veldig interessert i snekkeryrket. Virker så spennende og elsker å se hvordan ting blir gjort.
Really nice construction on the floor, what make / thickness are the fibreboards please.
Thank You! The wood fiber boards at the bottom are 12 mm (1/2 Inch). Particle boards at the top are 22 mm.
@DieterSchneider can you share a project of that house? Iliked to see how te roof was done...
Wow!
Thanks for sharing. What about moisture barriers (PE plastic)?
Thanks! The insulation is fairly thin compared to a modern house so the moisture will go through the walls. It can also be risky with a vapour barrier if the building is un-heated in periods, as you may get condensation on the inside. A vapour barrier would of course be needed on a permanently heated modern house with 25-40 cm insulation and balanced ventilation systems.
Very nice, thank you for the info as I am planning on building a wood storage about the same size on the roof of my house in Greece. It is going to be siting on the concrete roof and probably not going to built a base, as the rain water is not a big consideration, and the house roof has a slight slope which gets rid of the rain very quick. Probably will just put two layers of 2x4 with a tar layer protecting it (They don't seem to have chemical treated wood there, and don't seem to know about them), bolted to the concrete, and the walls on top of them.
Three questions, which I also noticed that apply in Greece:
1. Instead of woodfiber, wouldn't it be more rigid/stronger to use plywood? I would think woodfiber is cheaper, but are there any other inherent advances over plywood? Note, Greek islands don't get below zero C often, and insulation is not as common. Also, wouldn't plywood be stronger/longer lasting than particle boards on the floor?
2. In Greece they don't have as much tradition/resources working with wood, but I am surprised how little they use metal/Simpson-like ties for stabilizing joints. Is it the same in Norway? You don't seem to use any. Here in the U.S., as you definitely know, every joint has some kind of a metal tie support. What are the advantages of not using them in Europe? Is it cost, access, tradition, need?
3. Here in the U.S. we use primarily nails for framing, very few screws, usually what we call structural screws. What kind of screws do you use? They seem like what we call here, deck screws, not actual structural screws. Am I correct?
Oh, and where in Norway are you at? Just curious, only because I have a friend in Tromso.
Thank you!
Thank You.
1. The reason for using these wood fiber boards is that they are hygroscopic, which means they pick up and release moisture. They are very good for insulated buildings as there are less risk of trapping moisture inside the wall. I always add bracing to the framing so rigidity is not a problem, even though the wood fiber boards are rated for structural use, and they need to have nails every 10 cm. On a non-insulated structure plywood, osb, or metal sheathing is ok. The particle boards for the floor are rated for load bearing floors, and will last for decades.
2. We do use metal ties, but mostly on roof trusses and decking, and storm ties in windy costal areas.
3. We primarily use nails here too, I like to use a combination in places where I want to pull things very tight together, especially on the battens. I use different types of screws. For the battens decing screws are fine.
I'm located on the west coast south in Norway (close to Bergen). Tromsø is about 1600 kilometers away from me (24 hours to drive). I'm actually closer to Berlin, Germany than Tromsø :)
@@DieterSchneider❤❤❤❤Thank you!!!!
Just subscribed. I'm from the UK and looking to build a long wooden building to serve two purposes. Wall down the middle forming two sides - one a shed and the other a sort of summer house. Loving the build here and will definitely be looking at follow some of the methods here. Just curious, why do you have to make it almost air tight?
New subscriber here as well. If the quality of your videos is like this - will be staying :)
Thank You. For the insulation to work porperly it must be as air tight as possible, but it's also important that it let the moisture out of the building so I use a diffusion open membrane.
Fantastisk! Er det 30 grader hikoki eller 21?
Hvilken størrelse spiker bruker du for de forskjellige applikasjonene med den pistolen? Spesielt nysgjerrig på lengden av spikerne når du fester bjelke til bjelke? Samt når du slo inn de små spilene i gulvet for å holde den plata nede? Tusen takk for svar og fantastisk video som er enkel å følge for amatør!
Takker. Det er 34 grader Det er 90 mm spiker på bindingsverk/reisverk (bjelke til bjelke). Klemlektene som holder platene er 60 mm.
with your level of accuracy and detail, why not get a sliding compound miter saw?
how on earth to you ship this stuff?
Very nice work. @8:59 and other places, you put a board in front of the nail gun. Why is that? I'm a DIYer so I am not familiar with all techniques of nailing. Looking forward to part two.
Thanks, that is just to add downward pressure to make sure I get a tight fit
Awesome! I have a question: if moisture gets in under the floor, if there's a flood for example, will sealing it up underneath prevent the insulation from drying out?
Thanks! A flood would always be a problem of course, and yes, it may prevent it from drying out. Also, the wood needs to "breathe".
@@DieterSchneider my garden is rather squishy underfoot, and water pools on the path the other side of my garden fence. Both my sheds aren't wet, but they could get damp. I think a poured concrete raft might be the only long term plan.
@@Mikey__R Concrete piers are a good way to go on wet ground, 👍💪🔨🇮🇪
@@TheToolnut cheers! I don't know how far down I'd be digging to get past the clay! Thanks for the suggestion, I'll add it to the list of options to research.
@@Mikey__R Usually between 2' to 4' is sufficient. As long as your below the frost line you should be fine. If you can get a bob cat in there with an earth auger you'd have the pier holes bored in no time.
Hei, kunne man alternativt ha teipet asfaltplatene i bjelkelaget fra innsiden med vindtett teip, istendenfor å legge til de listene sånn som du gjorde?
I'm a bit unsure about the floor sheets passing under the walls like that. Won't that cause a significant thermal bridge into the flooring? You can always get away with slightly colder air inside, as long as the floors aren't cold.
The thermal bridge will be there anyway, unless there is insulation between the boards and the bottom plate. The floor will also be heated. This is also such a small building that will be heated very fast.
Ah! Good! Someone in the world who cares!!
Hence why I only employ Europeans in the UK. This video explains the reasons.
good job and end result. id use `screw clamps` when possible though. many assume two piece of material is forced together tight with screws, this often is not the case. and if so.. the gap between material often lead to a weaker(then optimal) and `squeaky` construction
Not problem if you use correct screws. I mainly use the clamps for aligning.
@@DieterSchneider well I disagree. a long `neck` is no guarantee for the pieces to merge fully. 4:15 for example. and few of these are as tight as they could be, judging by the photage
Alt er perfekt, men hvordan skal du ta den ut??
Takk! Jekketraller og gaffeltruck
The only question that remins: how so you get it outside and on the plot ? 🎉
I would like to know how will you get it out?
forklift
Hi, congratulations for the video and above all for the very beautiful and simple narration. Can you satisfy my curiosity??? could you tell me the sections of wood you used???' Thank you so much. Good work
Thanks, I'm not sure I understand your question. What sections?
Hi, you're right, I explained myself poorly. by section I meant the dimensions of the various wooden beams. Thank you@@DieterSchneider
@@user-rz7nv4ph7d to me,it looks like the following dimensions are used: floor& roof beams 48x148mm (or maybe 48x196) wall 48x98mm.
Is that 100 mm (yellow) insulation or 150mm. ?
150 in floor, 100 in walls
@@DieterSchneider thanks 👍😀
I'm on the market for battery operated nailer, which model do you have? Are you happy with it?
I have Hikoki (formerly Hitatchi). I'm very happy with it. No problems after 4 years.
@@DieterSchneider Is this NR1890DBC(R)L model?
What kind of the outside film, you are using? Is it some kind of membrane? Is it really necessary when you already using fiberboard (looks like waxed one) as outside sheeting?
It's a wind barrier. It's common to have a double wind barrier in this area of the country. In less windy and drier areas it's less common
What’s your favourite tool? You seem to make good use of the battery saw and the nail gun, but if you had to choose one? 😅
The battery circular saw would be my first choice :)
Hi, I understand the build but why the wood fibre board on the exterior face and not (say) OSB plywood? Fibre boards aren’t exactly structurally strong? Just interested in the use of this material…. Also do you have a spec for this material?
Because they are diffusion open (let moisture out). The bracing is for strength.
why use a GU plate and a wind barrier (vindsperre)?
It's not GU, it's wood fiber (asfaltplate). This is a very windy and rainy part of Norway (west coast), and It's common to do it this way. In drier parts of the country the woodfiber board may be enough, even though I think it's starting to get common with double wind barriers in these areas as well.
I had a Norwegian boyfriend, and yes, he hates working on the floor!!
Is this meant to be heated ? I have build a few sheds in the past in Canada, all uninsulated/unheated and had no problems with rodents/insects. Do you have problems with rodents/insects with this type of build?
Yes, it's going to be heated. No problems with rodents/insects, but there will be added some protection for that (coming in the next video).
Impressive, but how to move this out to the customer?
Thanks! it's transported with a crane truck.
Nice build! Looks like a lot of hand nailing, though... Maybe check if you could use a stapler for the wood fibre boards...
Thanks, That is possible, but I it's easy to mess up as the boards are very fragile.
The only thing I would have done different is build it outside in the garden.
Protect yourself from Rockwool dust
Not overbuilt, just normal, i build the same way.:)
Imagine using particle board.
only way to build
Calling a stick house "over built" sound crazy in German😅
Only bean counters would hate this way of building. I built this way for years.
That’s not falling down
Marine ply>chipboard
Yes, it's great for boat building.
Profi.but so could
IME bugle headed screws will spit the board as the boards dry out, regardless of your drilling, allowing the board to retwist. It would be better to use flat headed screws in this situation.
The boards are probably as dry as they will ever be. This is not a problem.
Imagine it were perfectly built, definitely not over or under ... then wait a few months, and now things have worn down slightly, so now it's under-built, right? So in the end, the term overbuilt isn't particularly meaningful.
overbuild
/ˌəʊvəˈbɪld/
verb
past tense: overbuilt; past participle: overbuilt
build (something) too elaborately or expensively.
"overbuilding something will always be safer than taking shortcuts"
I would not have used this mineral wool, they lack thermal mass. I built something similar but with compressed straw in the walls, it highly participate in the bracing of the structure while also greatly improve thermal mass (straw (90%)+water+clay).
Why adding silicone in the bottom structure...? Wood and silicon are not friends, it can prevent wood to dry if something happend. I do not see the importance of sealing at this place.
I used 90% screws building mine, only 90mm nails there and there, squares (95mmx95mm) every 2 vertical post, on top and bottom to prevent vertical tearing in case of high winds.
I got a cold roof, from the inside : 20mm wood, vapor barrier, 200mm wood wool, rain barrier, 40mm air, metal sheets.
I can see no condensation even with hard transitions, it's kind strange, maybe I do not have enough air circulation.
Materials with higher thermal mass have lower insulation performance.
Norweigian way? Rather Scandinavian way…….
Yes, Norway is in Scandinavia......
you are not even norwegian?
I am.
@@DieterSchneider okey, sorry
8:26 Привет Дитер. Моё имя Николай . Ютуб знает что мне интересно "Cold Climate Building Techniques and Concepts
ColdClimateHousing
13 видео" Теперь вопрос : Вы используете систему сс( центр центр) с шагом 600мм. Почему не сестить все проемы под ширину теплоизоляции ( на Аляске ее перевели как " летучая мышь из фиброволокна) и сделать одну Узкую часть. Уложить все без подрезки/ подгонки ? Это первое видео которое я смотрю на Вашем канале и первое видео от Норвежского мастера. Очень позновательно.
Thanks. I translated on Google so I hope this answers your question. The cc 60 fits the insulation, except the first and last.
@@DieterSchneider or rather the first and last joint is half a joist width closer than cc60 to accommodate the standard sheeting sizes.
yes, that's right@@boberson83
@@boberson83 согласен, это моя ошибка / я был невнимателен.
Lovey wood working proper job all in the planing. 🇬🇧
Thank You