My experience has been running without boots on the rear shocks. Thus far both shocks have failed twice in 2 years. I have a lifetime warranty on the shocks...so this time around I am going to run boots and see if the last. As someone else here mentioned, my oem shocks had hard covers that were open at the bottom and they lasted 10 years...and I only got rid of the because I lifted my rig. I believe that style shock offers the best protection.
I wish there was an option to buy with boot, no boot or my preference with a bell housing. The boot doesn't protect from dirt, its just slower at letting the dirt get to it and once inside it keeps it in. With no boot the dirt can be washed off more easily but looses the protection against rock chips. Bell housing allows it to self clean and be cleaned easier PLUS you get the protection from the biggest problem and that is rock chips on the highway.
I just bought Pro Comp gas shocks, they came without boots. I like the protection boots offer but I'm not gonna spend another 70 bucks on boots. I'll go without boots since threshold at least debates on the subject. Oh, I don't do any off reading, just dirt roads. Thanks for the video. It was straight to the point.
I don't think it should be an all boot or no boot decision. A shorter boot that permits some of the rod to be exposed can protect the entire rod when the suspension compresses. It also permits dirty, moist air to escape when the suspension extends as well, protect 2/3 of the rod. Any small amount of road or trail grit adhered to 1/3 of the rod will be swept away by the seal as the rod moves up and down. I also consider the size of the bump stop against a fully compressed boot. Sometimes a fully compressed boot is larger than the bump stop. Therefore bottoming the suspension could compress and tear the boot. In my opinion the best solution is to have boots that expose the lower part of the rod, whether you purchase smaller ones or cut larger ones down to size.
did you ask them why the 5100 comes with boot and the 5160 w/ reservoir does not? i am wandering if i should take the boot off my 5100 and put it on the 5160 when i get them in? idk know if that is even possible?
You got me at to boot or not to boot,.. this is my third video I watch since finding your channel and I have decided to subscribe.! very informative videos Thanks. :D I will be posting videos of my work on my jeep when I finally get my shocks I ordered or refunded E**y seller horror lol
I was just doing a Google search for strut boots for my new B8 5100's from Bilstein for my 2005 JGC and your video popped up. I think it's funny that Bilstein told you that if you run their equipment without the boots, the warranty will be voided. If that is the case, then why did my rear shocks come with boots and the fronts did not? Think I'll hit up Bilstein in the morning and find out.
@@JeepSolid The use of or non-use of boots doesn't void the lifetime warranty. I read the entire warranty and spoke to a customer service representative at Bilstein. I've been running my Fox coil overs on my F250 for 3 years now and no issues.
That's interesting. When I called them they said it would void the warranty.. Maybe their practice has changed since the video was made a few years ago?
Just ordered a set of Bilstein 4600 STOCK height for about $270.00 shipped for my 96 ZJ- I am changing stock injectors [single hole] to Bosch 4 hole this weekend, better spray pattern
You didn't mention the number one reason for having the boot on... boots are cool! no wait that's bow ties.. :) but really it does look nicer as well as protect the shocks. I put boots on my front shocks because I could see those, but neglected to do my rear shocks. I'm thinking I should likely get some boots for those as well now.
Is it okay that a boot is a little scrunched? I had KYB shocks installed on my truck and the boot looks all compressed. Maybe that's just the way they are supposed to be?
There is much less dirt getting on there. The dirt itself it made up of different materials. Driving on the road, you get salts, oils and all kinds of other harsh chemicals. The forces acting on it are magnitudes smaller than on a car, meaning there is much less wear when dirt is rubbing on the metal.
Got people are just so stupid lol ‘ it came with out a boot my mahh goddd ‘ or ‘ i dont wanna pay an extra 70$ for boots’ most come with out a boot unless its like rancho or rough county don’t quote me tho not 100% sure, but the boot should not be more then 5-10$ it’s a rubber boot
My son and I just had this debate. He doesn't like the way the boot looks, but I'm going function over fashion and keeping them on.
+TrailRecon Good idea. Best reason for me is keeping the warranty on the shocks valid.
Keeping your shaft exposed just sounds like trouble. Great Video.
+3hdninja Haha! Yep!
4 wheel places near me say not to because it promotes rust
My experience has been running without boots on the rear shocks. Thus far both shocks have failed twice in 2 years. I have a lifetime warranty on the shocks...so this time around I am going to run boots and see if the last. As someone else here mentioned, my oem shocks had hard covers that were open at the bottom and they lasted 10 years...and I only got rid of the because I lifted my rig. I believe that style shock offers the best protection.
+POPPASHANGO Thanks for the input. Curious to see how new setup holds up.
imo boots work good, and they have a good purpose. drill a pen sized hole to help with water drainage if you creek walk often. great vids!!!
I wish there was an option to buy with boot, no boot or my preference with a bell housing. The boot doesn't protect from dirt, its just slower at letting the dirt get to it and once inside it keeps it in. With no boot the dirt can be washed off more easily but looses the protection against rock chips. Bell housing allows it to self clean and be cleaned easier PLUS you get the protection from the biggest problem and that is rock chips on the highway.
Slower dirt creep is better. Unless you go off-road, which is what you are referring to
I just bought Pro Comp gas shocks, they came without boots. I like the protection boots offer but I'm not gonna spend another 70 bucks on boots. I'll go without boots since threshold at least debates on the subject. Oh, I don't do any off reading, just dirt roads. Thanks for the video. It was straight to the point.
WHY doesn't bilstien sell their front shocks with boots?!
I want them for my 06 ford f150 but they dont have a boot on it.
To boot or not to boot? Is that the Canadian version of Shakespeare?
I don't think it should be an all boot or no boot decision. A shorter boot that permits some of the rod to be exposed can protect the entire rod when the suspension compresses. It also permits dirty, moist air to escape when the suspension extends as well, protect 2/3 of the rod. Any small amount of road or trail grit adhered to 1/3 of the rod will be swept away by the seal as the rod moves up and down. I also consider the size of the bump stop against a fully compressed boot. Sometimes a fully compressed boot is larger than the bump stop. Therefore bottoming the suspension could compress and tear the boot. In my opinion the best solution is to have boots that expose the lower part of the rod, whether you purchase smaller ones or cut larger ones down to size.
Thanks for the tip on the warranty!
I’m sitting w/ new 5100’s about to go on my Jeep.
+Rick Richter Nice! Thanks for watching.
Ones I bought said it DOES NOT void the warranty running no boot
My 5160 bilstein shocks did not come with a boot. So if its not provided, how is not installing a not provided part voiding the warranty?
did you ask them why the 5100 comes with boot and the 5160 w/ reservoir does not? i am wandering if i should take the boot off my 5100 and put it on the 5160 when i get them in? idk know if that is even possible?
what shock would be better for 98 cummins diesel bilstein 5100 or Rancho rs5000x or rs 7000mt ?
I’m wondering if I should?
thanks for the tips
No problem.
great videos 👍
Wow, I just got a pair of 5160's that did not come with a boot and 6100 as well with no boot.
Good advice.
You got me at to boot or not to boot,.. this is my third video I watch since finding your channel and I have decided to subscribe.! very informative videos Thanks. :D I will be posting videos of my work on my jeep when I finally get my shocks I ordered or refunded E**y seller horror lol
Great! Thanks for the sub!
Yup.. :D your welcome to view my beginner channel LOL
I was just doing a Google search for strut boots for my new B8 5100's from Bilstein for my 2005 JGC and your video popped up. I think it's funny that Bilstein told you that if you run their equipment without the boots, the warranty will be voided. If that is the case, then why did my rear shocks come with boots and the fronts did not? Think I'll hit up Bilstein in the morning and find out.
Curious what you find. Thx
@@JeepSolid The use of or non-use of boots doesn't void the lifetime warranty. I read the entire warranty and spoke to a customer service representative at Bilstein. I've been running my Fox coil overs on my F250 for 3 years now and no issues.
That's interesting. When I called them they said it would void the warranty.. Maybe their practice has changed since the video was made a few years ago?
Hi, I have a 96 ZJ 5.2, do you know if Bilstein makes the 5100 for stock height ZJ or do I need 4600 only??
+jim dandy Check out my video on measuring shocks. That'll give you a good idea at what you're looking for.
Just ordered a set of Bilstein 4600 STOCK height for about $270.00 shipped for my 96 ZJ- I am changing stock injectors [single hole] to Bosch 4 hole this weekend, better spray pattern
How often should I wipe my shaft? Mostly if I've had it in mud?
+BroncoSolid yep! If it's dirty, clean it.
BroncoSolid you should always keep your shaft clean, no one likes a dirty shaft......
keep your shaft out of the mud.
I'll clean your shaft.
Ask your girlfriend for the final word.
You didn't mention the number one reason for having the boot on... boots are cool! no wait that's bow ties.. :) but really it does look nicer as well as protect the shocks. I put boots on my front shocks because I could see those, but neglected to do my rear shocks. I'm thinking I should likely get some boots for those as well now.
+Shane Vertner Yeah, and then don't have to worry about rocks hitting them.
Did you just... make a Matt Smith reference? :D
Is it okay that a boot is a little scrunched? I had KYB shocks installed on my truck and the boot looks all compressed. Maybe that's just the way they are supposed to be?
Yeah, the boot is going to be a bit scrunched. Just keep an eye on it and watch for any tears or breaks in the rubber.
Alright. Could a break in the rubber affect the shocks themselves?
Keep your shafts clean, fellas.
But yet the inverted forks on a dirt bike. Don’t have or need “boots”. Hmmmm
There is much less dirt getting on there. The dirt itself it made up of different materials. Driving on the road, you get salts, oils and all kinds of other harsh chemicals. The forces acting on it are magnitudes smaller than on a car, meaning there is much less wear when dirt is rubbing on the metal.
Inverted forks have guards to protect them. Those fork seals do get loaded up with dirt eventually which cause them to leak.
Inverted or not video?
Great video idea! Thx
I don't want to die with my boots on.
🤣
can you use a universal boot on a Bilstein 5100 shock?
Yea
the best 4 wheel shops near me say no boots it will rust. looking in the parkinglot none of the guys that work there run boots.. so..
How is a hardened chrome shaft going to rust with a boot on it? If you have cheap shocks with china pistons rods I could see it rusting.
Jeeze...Had to stop this video early on... get rid of that annoying music..
Got people are just so stupid lol ‘ it came with out a boot my mahh goddd ‘ or ‘ i dont wanna pay an extra 70$ for boots’ most come with out a boot unless its like rancho or rough county don’t quote me tho not 100% sure, but the boot should not be more then 5-10$ it’s a rubber boot
No boots
no idea why more expensive shocks dont just run a metal shaft protector like cheaper brands do.. makes no sense