I don't know if it's necessary, but I've always waited to apply final torques once the vehicle is on the ground. That way the rubber bushings settle in to their normal ride position. I always felt that if you torque them all down while still suspended, you risk putting undue rotational stress on the bushing once the vehicle weighs them down, thus shortening their life.
I agree with you. I do most stuff on a lift so people can see what's going on. Almost all bushings and some joints need to be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the ground. An exception would be Johnny joints.
Of course you can. It is actually easier to do it on the ground with the weight of the vehicle on the springs. That is where the shocks are closest to neutral with no bind on them. I use a lift in my videos so people can see what needs to be done.
Mine gives me about an inch to work with. Gonna be tough to get the rubber bushing and nut on the shock tower but in the morning I’m going to get it done. By the way, great video.
Quick question, I was in the process of swapping out my shocks and noticed top bolt front drivers side somehow got bent, can't get the nut off. any ideas?
I have watched about ten videos on this subject. Yours was the best. Thanks so much!
Thank you for the video. That top nut for the front shocks are a PITA!
They sure can!
I don't know if it's necessary, but I've always waited to apply final torques once the vehicle is on the ground. That way the rubber bushings settle in to their normal ride position. I always felt that if you torque them all down while still suspended, you risk putting undue rotational stress on the bushing once the vehicle weighs them down, thus shortening their life.
I agree with you. I do most stuff on a lift so people can see what's going on. Almost all bushings and some joints need to be torqued with the weight of the vehicle on the ground. An exception would be Johnny joints.
Thanks for taking time to make this video much appreciated
Thanks for posting - Appreciate how clear you made everything.
Is there a specific torque spec for the front top isolator nut?
@@bryancrowley9778 Good luck with a torque wrench. I tighten them until the rubber starts to bulge.
1:07..."PP" Blaster lol I know you were saying PB Blaster but you caught me off guard and was like wtf did he say lol
Great video. No bullshit and packed with knowledge
Thank you & saludos from Sunny South FL!
Great vid! Forgive me for asking, but are those torque specs in ft-lbs? Thanks!
Yes ft/lbs
Love these videos, to the point!! 🙏
Thanks so much for this! I'm swapping mine out in a few days, this is really helpful.
What size are the bolts on the front lowers?
Thanks for the video
Not all of us have lifts in our garage. Can you change shocks without lift or jack? Or even removing tires?
Of course you can. It is actually easier to do it on the ground with the weight of the vehicle on the springs. That is where the shocks are closest to neutral with no bind on them. I use a lift in my videos so people can see what needs to be done.
Great video, very informative. Thanks
Great video ! One question....
On the front shocks Did you remove the fender liner ?
No, not necessary!
What size are the top nuts on the front shocks? Are they 5/8ths like the rear bolts?
I think they are 9/16". I'd have to check
Does that top nut on the front shocks have to be torqued as well? Also can this be done just as easy without the lift?
Easy to do without a lift. I just tighten the nut until it's firm. No need to make a pancake out if the bushing.
I appreciate the response thank you!
I have a 2017 Jk , the front passenger side is blocked by a carriage part. Looks like shop job now
Did you trim the finder well cover to allow more room to work at the top of the shock tower ?
Nope.
Mine gives me about an inch to work with. Gonna be tough to get the rubber bushing and nut on the shock tower but in the morning I’m going to get it done. By the way, great video.
Great video bro!
excellent thanks
Great video!! Thank you!
Quick question, I was in the process of swapping out my shocks and noticed top bolt front drivers side somehow got bent, can't get the nut off. any ideas?
Hacksaw, sawzall, dremel, anything that will fit it the space needed!
What was the the front shock top mount bolt torque spec? The lower bolt was 56ft-lbs… is it 37ft-lbs like the rear upper bolts?
The uppers only take 20 ft/lbs.
Can this be done on the ground? Do I need to jack it up?
Yes it can be done on the ground. It helps to jack it up to remove the tire for better access.