Thank you! I've been searching youtube for hours trying to find someone expaining wiring in plain english! Well done that man 🤣🤣 i now finally have a clue where to start... 🤣🤣 Subbed to your channel and will be back for more! Thank you once again!
G'day mate. I'm a newby at model railway but I've done a huge amount of wiring in my 57 years of being a Marine tech. I've always found those scotch locks are the biggest reason's for electrical failure's. The best connection is to solder the wire's. My hat goes off to you though, it appears to be a mammoth task and you seem to have it under control.
Hi Tony. I think I understand what you were trying to say about wiring your layout, but it was a little confusing when you were saying the positive was at the back and you seemed to have used a black wire. You are correct in saying it doesn't matter what colour wire you use, but it is VERY important to be consistent. The usual mantra is "black to the back"; black is usually used for the negative and red for the positive. One thing to remember of course is that for those who have a looped layout, the front will become the back and vice versa. Purists will tell you that positive and negative doesn't exist in the world of DCC, but I think most people find it easier to use the terms positive and negative in order to help prevent shorts! The number of droppers to use on your layout: this depends on the size of your layout. The received wisdom is to use one set of droppers for each bit of track. This gets a bit complicated if you end up using small lengths of track just to fill in a gap here and there. Choc blocs are the white ones that you are using to connect the DCC controller to the power bus. The red ones are suitcase connectors; some find them unreliable and some have no trouble with them. Ah, the joys of working beneath a baseboard! Here endeth the lesson.
i think it would be sensible to wire all the point motors exactly the same .regaurdless of the orientation of the connectors.because one has been reversed simply reverse the switch on the control pannel.
Apologies for the late reply! I'm slowly catching up with everyone! I'm glad the video helped! Wiring can be made easy, and hopefully I explained it well enough!
Nice work, Tony. I do not like to solder and am not good at it. I will take a small strip of heavy duty aluminum foil from the kitchen, fold it crisply over onto itself - about the size of a stick of chewing gum then 'mold' it in place where I want to solder using an old short piece of straight track pressed upside down into the foil. Voila, the ties now have a nice shield and you can solder right on top of it. And once you make one you can use it many times before you have to make another.
I'm just planning my layout for an n gauge setup with DCC. After reading and watching loads of bits on electrical stuff I was really unconfident. This video is exactly what I needed - real basic start to finish stuff. Thanks for your time and effort making it I think it's given me some motivation to get back into it
Hi Simon, thank you for your comment! I'm really glad to hear that these videos helped you, that's what it's all about! I wish you luck with your layout and if I can help with anything else, just drop me a message!
Given that your layout is a circle, you can make your bus into a ring as well - same principal as ring mains in your home. The benefit is that you will get equal loading all around the layout.
Sorry I'm late to the party but how do those connectors work? Do they cut through the casing of the wire when they are shut? I've just started a second layout and have been cursing trying to solder droppers wires to a bus wire......these look so simple!
Hi Tony, i'm doing the same as you with the Scotchloks, i've used them on different layouts and have never found a problem with them, as long as they line up correctly they cut through the insulation and get good connectivity.
Ian Wagner - Hello! Yeah so far I haven’t had any problems, think I’ve done everything ok! Will find out when I get to do a proper first test of locos though!
Tony - as with all the other comments, well done for explaining the wiring in a sensible manner. In about two to three weeks after I recover from my minor operation, I will be laying down my bus wires, and will be having four districts, hence four red and black bus wire, as suggested by Charlie from Chadwick, and run from a Dijikejis 5000 command station. However I'm still a bit confused about the point wiring, but will follow your videos to do this. The blue and yellow bus are for the accessories, which I understand will be powered from a completely separate 16V AC supply. Are the point motors run from this or do they get there power from the red and black DCC bus wire?
As always a good video start to finish. I'm all up together on wiring and soldered all my droppers to the track before fitting it (some when soon lol) yep another weekend of cutting ply coming up - might be laying track soon 🤔 Tim
The-scrap-line Model railway weathering - Thank you! And lol, part of me wishes I’d done that, but it wasn’t too bad in the end! Hope you’re ply cutting weekend goes well, looking forward to seeing the progress!
Presently have a DC operated layout, have been toying with the idea of DCC but always thought it to daunting. Your video has waylaid those worries and am now ready to seriously think about changing my end to end layout to DCC .A very informative video,will refer to it when converting my layout.I am not bothered about sound and my layout points/lights are already sorted so will just need DCC to run the loco's, i have been leaning towards the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express as a entry level system,any advice please!
3M IDCs (suitcase connectors) are perfectly fine for connecting dropper wires to the bus. I have used the 905s from 3M with zero mechanical problems. Some people prefer soldering and this is fine too. You must ensure that the wires used for the suitcase connector are the right sizes. I can assure you that connecting wires with suitcase connectors is a million times easier than soldering, and there is little difference in connectivity if done correctly. Modellers in the US have been using 3M suitcase connectors for many years without any dramas (e.g. Tony Koester’s NKP layout used 3M suitcase connectors throughout).
kropotken - Thank you. Yes, I haven’t found any problems yet, and hopefully I’ve done it all correctly and won’t have any problems in the future! Thanks again for your comment and support!
@@boringfunny2767 There's many opinions on this. But if you want mine, I'd run them every 2-3ft in long stretches. And at every peice of track between points.
just watched your smashing video answered so many questions in simple laymans terms you mentioned your bus wire for points etc is this a complete circle or the same as your main bus thank you
John Shearman I use 32/0.2mm wire. You can grab it in a lot of places, but I got this particular wire from eBay. I can’t remember who the seller was though I’m afraid. A quick search will give you a few to choose from! Hope that helps!
Thanks for your comment. I might just leave them as they are. I've been running trains (for which the video is coming later today) and haven't had any problems, so they shouldn't need any further trimming!
I think it’s because you can cause damage to the point, where you have to trim it as low as you can to avoid fouling the train. And also, the rod will snap off at high speed from the dreamer and possibly cause injury. Just my guess though?
I know this video was made 2 years ago lol but it was very helpful. The only thing I’m not sure of is this. When I’m soldering my wires to the track, do I need to solder where the 2 track pieces join, or can I solder it anywhere?
Hi Tony, how can I get your contact details so that I can send you some Sample Blue scotch locks to try against the red ones you've already started to use regards,jc
John Cresswell - Hello, Thank you, that’s very generous of you! I’m not sure of the best way to get my details to you securely. I’ll try and work something out and let you know! Thanks again!
Quick tip from a trained lecturer. If you mumble and whisper, people won't be able to hear you and stop listening - and won't bother subscribing - no matter how good your information may be.
One of the best explanatory videos I have seen on DCC wiring. Thank you.
Thank you! I've been searching youtube for hours trying to find someone expaining wiring in plain english! Well done that man 🤣🤣 i now finally have a clue where to start... 🤣🤣 Subbed to your channel and will be back for more! Thank you once again!
G'day mate. I'm a newby at model railway but I've done a huge amount of wiring in my 57 years of being a Marine tech. I've always found those scotch locks are the biggest reason's for electrical failure's. The best connection is to solder the wire's. My hat goes off to you though, it appears to be a mammoth task and you seem to have it under control.
At last some one has explained the beginning and what to do at the end of the buz wire, 👍👍.
This was honestly described it so well, it took me over 30 video and at last I understand I subbed and liked
Thank you for your comment! I'm really glad it helped!
Hi Tony. I think I understand what you were trying to say about wiring your layout, but it was a little confusing when you were saying the positive was at the back and you seemed to have used a black wire. You are correct in saying it doesn't matter what colour wire you use, but it is VERY important to be consistent. The usual mantra is "black to the back"; black is usually used for the negative and red for the positive. One thing to remember of course is that for those who have a looped layout, the front will become the back and vice versa. Purists will tell you that positive and negative doesn't exist in the world of DCC, but I think most people find it easier to use the terms positive and negative in order to help prevent shorts! The number of droppers to use on your layout: this depends on the size of your layout. The received wisdom is to use one set of droppers for each bit of track. This gets a bit complicated if you end up using small lengths of track just to fill in a gap here and there. Choc blocs are the white ones that you are using to connect the DCC controller to the power bus. The red ones are suitcase connectors; some find them unreliable and some have no trouble with them. Ah, the joys of working beneath a baseboard! Here endeth the lesson.
i think it would be sensible to wire all the point motors exactly the same .regaurdless of the orientation of the connectors.because one has been reversed simply reverse the switch on the control pannel.
Really interesting and well presented. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
Really informative, thank you. I always felt wiring was a daunting prospect for a layout but you explained it in simple terms.
Apologies for the late reply! I'm slowly catching up with everyone!
I'm glad the video helped! Wiring can be made easy, and hopefully I explained it well enough!
Just found this as I start my model railway from scratch, very informative and easy to understand, thankyou!
Nice work, Tony. I do not like to solder and am not good at it. I will take a small strip of heavy duty aluminum foil from the kitchen, fold it crisply over onto itself - about the size of a stick of chewing gum then 'mold' it in place where I want to solder using an old short piece of straight track pressed upside down into the foil. Voila, the ties now have a nice shield and you can solder right on top of it. And once you make one you can use it many times before you have to make another.
I'm just planning my layout for an n gauge setup with DCC. After reading and watching loads of bits on electrical stuff I was really unconfident. This video is exactly what I needed - real basic start to finish stuff. Thanks for your time and effort making it I think it's given me some motivation to get back into it
Hi Simon, thank you for your comment! I'm really glad to hear that these videos helped you, that's what it's all about! I wish you luck with your layout and if I can help with anything else, just drop me a message!
Given that your layout is a circle, you can make your bus into a ring as well - same principal as ring mains in your home. The benefit is that you will get equal loading all around the layout.
So helpful and brilliantly described! Thanks....
Thank you! I'm glad it helped!
Thanks for this. Complete beginner here starting a major n gauge project and you have just dispelled most of my fears regarding wiring!
Hi Paul! Thanks for your comment! I’m glad the video helped you out! I wish you the best of luck with your layout!
Just found this, your channel and subbed. Thank you so much. Finally a video presented in a way I can understand!
Hi! Thanks for your comment and sub, I'm glad that I could help! Hopefully some of my other videos will help too!
Hi Tony great video and explained in easy simple terms thanks can't wait for the next video cheers George..
Hi George! Thanks for your support, I really do appreciate it!
Sorry I'm late to the party but how do those connectors work? Do they cut through the casing of the wire when they are shut? I've just started a second layout and have been cursing trying to solder droppers wires to a bus wire......these look so simple!
Hi Tony, i'm doing the same as you with the Scotchloks, i've used them on different layouts and have never found a problem with them, as long as they line up correctly they cut through the insulation and get good connectivity.
Ian Wagner - Hello! Yeah so far I haven’t had any problems, think I’ve done everything ok! Will find out when I get to do a proper first test of locos though!
I totally agree. The key is good quality fittings and the right gauge and type of wire. They work best with stranded cable.
Brilliant, Tony.
Nigel Carter - Thank you!
Tony - as with all the other comments, well done for explaining the wiring in a sensible manner. In about two to three weeks after I recover from my minor operation, I will be laying down my bus wires, and will be having four districts, hence four red and black bus wire, as suggested by Charlie from Chadwick, and run from a Dijikejis 5000 command station. However I'm still a bit confused about the point wiring, but will follow your videos to do this. The blue and yellow bus are for the accessories, which I understand will be powered from a completely separate 16V AC supply. Are the point motors run from this or do they get there power from the red and black DCC bus wire?
Great video!
As always a good video start to finish. I'm all up together on wiring and soldered all my droppers to the track before fitting it (some when soon lol) yep another weekend of cutting ply coming up - might be laying track soon 🤔
Tim
The-scrap-line Model railway weathering - Thank you! And lol, part of me wishes I’d done that, but it wasn’t too bad in the end! Hope you’re ply cutting weekend goes well, looking forward to seeing the progress!
Presently have a DC operated layout, have been toying with the idea of DCC but always thought it to daunting. Your video has waylaid those worries and am now ready to seriously think about changing my end to end layout to DCC .A very informative video,will refer to it when converting my layout.I am not bothered about sound and my layout points/lights are already sorted so will just need DCC to run the loco's, i have been leaning towards the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express as a entry level system,any advice please!
Great videos, so easy to understand, but can I use 16\0.2 wire for the bus wire or does it need 32\0.2 as you mention in the comment replies?
3M IDCs (suitcase connectors) are perfectly fine for connecting dropper wires to the bus. I have used the 905s from 3M with zero mechanical problems. Some people prefer soldering and this is fine too. You must ensure that the wires used for the suitcase connector are the right sizes. I can assure you that connecting wires with suitcase connectors is a million times easier than soldering, and there is little difference in connectivity if done correctly. Modellers in the US have been using 3M suitcase connectors for many years without any dramas (e.g. Tony Koester’s NKP layout used 3M suitcase connectors throughout).
kropotken - Thank you. Yes, I haven’t found any problems yet, and hopefully I’ve done it all correctly and won’t have any problems in the future! Thanks again for your comment and support!
Very nice informative video Tony, there are lots of people in this hobby your video will help...Simon
Simon -Liverton Central - Hello, thank you very much! I’m glad it’s useful lol!
Well explained Tony and all looking good..............John.
John Carvil - Thank you, I really appreciate it!
thank you ive been trying to find a video that describes this
Thank you! I hope it helped!
Hi I understood the process thanks,one of the videos I actually did ,you mentioned insulating fish plates ,what determines where they need to go
It’s a bit of a complicated process to explain via text. If you check out one of my wiring videos, I explain it all in detail there!
Also is the second yellow and blue bus line essentiall if I just want to run trains and I want to flip the points and stuff manually
Also.. how often do you need a dropped wire
No, ignore the yellow and blue bus wires. They are not essential at all.
@@boringfunny2767 There's many opinions on this. But if you want mine, I'd run them every 2-3ft in long stretches. And at every peice of track between points.
just watched your smashing video answered so many questions in simple laymans terms you mentioned your bus wire for points etc is this a complete circle or the same as your main bus thank you
Hi Keith, I’m glad it helped! Sorry for the delay, the accessory bus wire is the same as the main bus. You don’t join them up to make a circle.
Nice video. Many thanks ☺️👍🏻
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice explanation again thank you
Colin Busby - Thank you!
I have just started so you have one bus wire going round your layout and all your track is wired to one bus wire
What cable did you use for the dcc bus wire? Thanks John
John Shearman I use 32/0.2mm wire. You can grab it in a lot of places, but I got this particular wire from eBay. I can’t remember who the seller was though I’m afraid. A quick search will give you a few to choose from! Hope that helps!
@@TonyDocksStation Thanks Tony, your videos have been very helpful as specially electrical jobs isn't my strong point.
John Shearman thank you! I’m glad they’ve helped!
Be careful with a dremel. It’s very easy to cut into the rails. A good pair of cutters is fine particularly some compound cutters.
Thanks for your comment. I might just leave them as they are. I've been running trains (for which the video is coming later today) and haven't had any problems, so they shouldn't need any further trimming!
Hi ive seen many people sayin DONT use dremel on point motor rods .. Not sure why tho
I think it’s because you can cause damage to the point, where you have to trim it as low as you can to avoid fouling the train. And also, the rod will snap off at high speed from the dreamer and possibly cause injury. Just my guess though?
I know this video was made 2 years ago lol but it was very helpful. The only thing I’m not sure of is this.
When I’m soldering my wires to the track, do I need to solder where the 2 track pieces join, or can I solder it anywhere?
You can solder anywhere. Or at the join, but the join can break over time through wear and tear.
Hi Tony, how can I get your contact details so that I can send you some
Sample Blue scotch locks to try against the red ones you've already started to use regards,jc
John Cresswell - Hello, Thank you, that’s very generous of you! I’m not sure of the best way to get my details to you securely. I’ll try and work something out and let you know! Thanks again!
Tony Docks Station try text to my work number 07855743885
John Cresswell - I’ve written down the number of you want to delete it? And I will message you later when I’m home from work.
wHY ARE YOU WHISPERING
Because it’s a secret! Shh, don’t tell anyone else haha! Joking!
Psssstt....why are you whispering? Are the kids sleeping? hehehehe...I have volume and can't hear...too bad...thanks anyways... :)
The kids probably were sleeping tbh! Haha!
Quick tip from a trained lecturer. If you mumble and whisper, people won't be able to hear you and stop listening - and won't bother subscribing - no matter how good your information may be.
cant hea
you please speak up all is a complete mumble