No need for any fancy expensive tool to get the hub off, a couple of dead blows with a hammer either side and done.. You made the shoe retaining springs look so easy to put back on when I used the same pliers the other day and was at it for 2hrs for the top bit to just keep going ping and flying across the car park and I lost it in the end so had to buy a shoe accessory kit but going to attempt it with locking pliers which I hope it'll be easier. Good video
In my experience you're being overly optimistic. Firstly with this type of double/split bearing the bearing is often pulled apart as the inner sticks to the axle shaft, and will need replacing anyway. Secondly it depends how worn the drums are, a worn drum will have a lip on the inner edge, the brake shoes will be expanded beyond that lip and so it can make removing the drum very difficult indeed. On some models it's possible, but not easy, to disengage the auto adjuster and wind it back in to allow the shoes to retract further, an alternative is, like this guy, to slack off the handbrake cable and try to get the handbrake lever back beyond it's usual stop to allow the brake shoes to retract further. Using a puller will destroy the brake shoes and the retaining pins. When refitting a brake drum it's always worth checking how worn it is and removing any lip with a grinder/stone before refitting, it allows you to get the mechanism and shoes adjusted for a better brake pedal before the auto adjuster has had a chance to catch up.
your abs rings are different i had similar problem so i returned the brakedrum to the seller. (scrapyard) They first insisted it made no different at all... but finally i got my money back. nice vid thanks!
I managed to build the shoes up minus the bottom spring, then kind of pull the bottoms of the shoes over in front the pivot point which makes it easy to install the spring, then pry the shoes back over it into position.
perfectly done and explained video, helped me change my brake shoes on my daughter's Clio. I noticed a cat meow at 1140 funny cos my cat sat and watched me do the job aswell. A big thankyou to you
I don't understand what to do with expander rod. I screwed it back to minimum length so that I could attach the spring that runs alongside it. Are you then supposed to screw it back out until some hypothetical perfect level of snugness vis-a-vis the drum is achieved, or should that be taken care of by pumping the brake pedal (like you do after changing pads on a disc brake system)? My auto-adjuster thingy goes click once when pressing the brake pedal and then pops off the expander. In your video adjustment doesn't seem to be a concern.
Nice explained. Im trying to remove the hub but its verry stuck(hammering didn't helped) . I heard that you can break the bearing if you remove it whenits stuck. Is that true?
How were you able to remove the drum and wheel bearings intact ?? I have a French car and the new and not damaged wheel bearings just disintegrated upon release. I could sense it even before pulling it off the bearings split in two and something isn't right with the method. There has to be a way to correctly remove the drum and save the bearings. Same thing with a brand new drum The bearings will be destroyed instantly of you test and remove the newly installed drum so the method is wrong.
The bearings simply came off the stub axle with the drum for me. I understand that this may not be the case for every car; some may be more stuck than others. Given that the bearings are pressed into the drum from the inside, then the whole assembly is fitted to the stub axle, I don't see another way to remove the drum without disturbing the bearings. The bearings are not expensive so they can just be considered a consumable if they do not come off cleanly when the drum is removed, regardless of their condition.
It happened! My bearings and shoes crapped out at the same time so I am faced with tacking this job - do you recall where you bought the drums with pre-installed bearings? Thanks!
You are. The ABS sensor was in there but may have been out of shot. It turns out there are two types of ABS ring: the steel toothed one (similiar to most other cars I've worked on) and a magnetic ring which is smooth. The ABS light illuminated as soon as I started my test drive and I later swapped over the smooth magnetic rings from the old drums. Something I should have researched beforehand.
Not anymore, I'm afraid. I would have just gone onto ECP/CP4L/GSF's website and selected the appropriate parts for my car though, so hopefully that info is still there.
No need for any fancy expensive tool to get the hub off, a couple of dead blows with a hammer either side and done.. You made the shoe retaining springs look so easy to put back on when I used the same pliers the other day and was at it for 2hrs for the top bit to just keep going ping and flying across the car park and I lost it in the end so had to buy a shoe accessory kit but going to attempt it with locking pliers which I hope it'll be easier. Good video
In my experience you're being overly optimistic. Firstly with this type of double/split bearing the bearing is often pulled apart as the inner sticks to the axle shaft, and will need replacing anyway. Secondly it depends how worn the drums are, a worn drum will have a lip on the inner edge, the brake shoes will be expanded beyond that lip and so it can make removing the drum very difficult indeed. On some models it's possible, but not easy, to disengage the auto adjuster and wind it back in to allow the shoes to retract further, an alternative is, like this guy, to slack off the handbrake cable and try to get the handbrake lever back beyond it's usual stop to allow the brake shoes to retract further. Using a puller will destroy the brake shoes and the retaining pins. When refitting a brake drum it's always worth checking how worn it is and removing any lip with a grinder/stone before refitting, it allows you to get the mechanism and shoes adjusted for a better brake pedal before the auto adjuster has had a chance to catch up.
Excellent illustration and explanations,
your abs rings are different i had similar problem so i returned the brakedrum to the seller. (scrapyard) They first insisted it made no different at all... but finally i got my money back. nice vid thanks!
Spot on; that was exactly my issue. Glad you got your money back and surprising that the scrap yard didn't know about the different rings.
I managed to build the shoes up minus the bottom spring, then kind of pull the bottoms of the shoes over in front the pivot point which makes it easy to install the spring, then pry the shoes back over it into position.
perfectly done and explained video, helped me change my brake shoes on my daughter's Clio. I noticed a cat meow at 1140 funny cos my cat sat and watched me do the job aswell. A big thankyou to you
Cheers for the comment and I'm glad the video helped.
thank you for the torque setting! in Brazil, it's 17,0 Kgfm
Great video! I've attached the wheel back on to remove the rear drum. It increases the leverage and it came right off. Hope it helps someone. Regards.
That's a great idea, cheers for the comment.
I don't understand what to do with expander rod. I screwed it back to minimum length so that I could attach the spring that runs alongside it. Are you then supposed to screw it back out until some hypothetical perfect level of snugness vis-a-vis the drum is achieved, or should that be taken care of by pumping the brake pedal (like you do after changing pads on a disc brake system)? My auto-adjuster thingy goes click once when pressing the brake pedal and then pops off the expander. In your video adjustment doesn't seem to be a concern.
thanks for a good video! I want to change my brake shoes as well, but do I need to change the bearing also?
No, only if they are worn. You can just reinstall the drum and leave the bearings alone.
Nice explained. Im trying to remove the hub but its verry stuck(hammering didn't helped) . I heard that you can break the bearing if you remove it whenits stuck. Is that true?
Well possibly, however if you are replacing it anyway then this shouldn't be a problem. Heat might help.
The thing is that im trying to replace just the springs and the shoes... Thanks for the reply!
How were you able to remove the drum and wheel bearings intact ??
I have a French car and the new and not damaged wheel bearings just disintegrated upon release. I could sense it even before pulling it off the bearings split in two and something isn't right with the method.
There has to be a way to correctly remove the drum and save the bearings. Same thing with a brand new drum
The bearings will be destroyed instantly of you test and remove the newly installed drum so the method is wrong.
The bearings simply came off the stub axle with the drum for me. I understand that this may not be the case for every car; some may be more stuck than others. Given that the bearings are pressed into the drum from the inside, then the whole assembly is fitted to the stub axle, I don't see another way to remove the drum without disturbing the bearings. The bearings are not expensive so they can just be considered a consumable if they do not come off cleanly when the drum is removed, regardless of their condition.
one question: how did you remove magnetic abs ring from old drums, was it easy? I'm afraid that those rings might break.
Cool thanks 👌👍
Excellent explanation dude, however you should have replaced the wheel cylinders aswell to avoid getting the brake job done again soon.
True, that would have been cheap and easy but I only needed the car to last a little longer.
Very interesting and usefull
Cheers, Marcel.
It happened! My bearings and shoes crapped out at the same time so I am faced with tacking this job - do you recall where you bought the drums with pre-installed bearings? Thanks!
I think it would have been ECP or GSF. They weren't expensive.
What was the ABS ring issue? Doesn't look like there is any ABS sensor in the drum, am I wrong?
You are. The ABS sensor was in there but may have been out of shot. It turns out there are two types of ABS ring: the steel toothed one (similiar to most other cars I've worked on) and a magnetic ring which is smooth. The ABS light illuminated as soon as I started my test drive and I later swapped over the smooth magnetic rings from the old drums. Something I should have researched beforehand.
@@KomradeShotabollokov Nice one, thanks. Hopefully I won't have to deal with this ever, but good to know any potential gotchas in advance.
do you have any part numbers or links for the items you bought?
Not anymore, I'm afraid. I would have just gone onto ECP/CP4L/GSF's website and selected the appropriate parts for my car though, so hopefully that info is still there.
Where did you buy the hub and bearing together?
I can't remember for sure but it's highly likely to have been either ECP/CP4L or GSF.
Thanks
could have done a better job at showing how the brake shoes go together :(