I would like to mention that it is a good practice to check the diameter of the shoes, before purchasing the shoes. It is stamped inside the drum. Also, if the set does not have the mounting accessories (springs, pins, washers), it is good to buy them separately.
Salut. La 2015 Dacia piulița care sutine capacul la tambur e de 30mm dar e stransa la 280 nm. Cheia mea dinamometrica merge pana la 220 de NM si nu m-as sui cu piciorul pe ea. Am indoit o bara incercand sa desfac acea piulita si nici nu s-a miscat. Nu avea pic de rugina pe ea dar zici ca era sudata. Un pistol de impact iti ușurează viata. Felicitări si cat mai multe vizualizări!
I have been doing drum brakes for nearly fifty years and the first place I start is by putting masking tape/painters tape on the braking surface of the new brake shoes. This will keep them clean and uncontaminated while they are fitted and simply ripped off before the drums are refitted. Nice video.
So perhaps you could answer why they say I don't have to remove the wheel nut, retaining clip on bearings, that I don't have to adjust anything and there are no retaining bolts and the drum lacks adjustment hole and I can't remove the drum even with no parking brakes applied. I am a newbie. And another thing. How is it possible that the wheels itself hangs on the drums. The drum is not even connected to the 30 mm wheel nut assembly. The rear wheels should in theory wobble
Thank you for a very imformative video, however i did not se how you adjusted the "hand brake adjuster. Does uppvards make the shoes go more outward, and down more inward? Also what did yo do with the brake shoes after adjusting it?
No, this type of wear adjusters do not adjust when the hand brake is used. The lever which is pulled by the hand brake cable uses the actual wear adjuster fork as a pivot point. Therefore there will be no gap between the adjuster and the shoes to adjust. Check this picture (top left, where the adjuster rests on the lever (silver)): images.app.goo.gl/8caVjG2eyjEBDoNu8
The only other, unorthodox, way of forcing the shoes to get closer to the brake drum is to step on the brake pedal like mad. So that the brake cylinder pushes the shoes enough so that a sufficient gap forms for the adjuster to extend with at least one click.
@@masterautoreviews1546 but if it uses the mechanism as a pivot it shoult autoadjust while braking with the normal breaks (foot). So it shoult autoadjust while normal driving after 1 or 2 breaks. then the handbreak should work fine...
@@andreasbrandstetter9221 On my Clio one side did not auto adjust, other did. I read somewhere for auto adjust to work right you need to brake while you drive in reverse like mad. For right shoes pad clearance first you need to remove edge from drum with grinder or something like that, I did that and adjust my handbrake, it block both weels at 70km/h :).
Good question. If you have high quality ones that come with rubber contact points you can use the same lift points as the ones in the video. Otherwise just place them underneath semi-rigid suspension arm, as close as possible to the drum while paying attention not to damage any other part or scraping the paint. This is how I would do it in order to work on the rear brakes.
Cati kilometri are Capturul tau ? Cel pe care am lucrat eu are putin sub 80000 km iar sabotii mai aveau 60-70 % viata. Nu cred ca ar trebui sa te gandesti la inlocuirea lor daca masina are sub 120000 km chiar daca sunt facuti preponderent urban.
Nu am Captur. Am un Logan MCV din 2016 . Franeaza ok dar se aude un scartait enervant cand pun frana , probabil trebuiesc unse exact cum ai facut tu dar a mea are 150.000 , ma gandesc ca ar fi momentul sa le schimb.
Good point. It should work easier if done the way you describe it. However, I wanted to be extra carefull because there was a failure on the left wheel. The shoe lining was detached from the metal plate and was partially blocking the wheel rotation. I did not know how serious was the problem and wanted to take it slow.
@@masterautoreviews1546 The correct way is to unlock a brake pad lever. You do it through the screw thread hole. The brake pad move away from brakedrum and make it easier to take off. This mechanism is on all brakedrum.
23:20 you must have hands like King Kong, because that's bloody hard to do. Edit: I tried a needle nose pliers and for some reason it was much easier to do.
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I would like to mention that it is a good practice to check the diameter of the shoes, before purchasing the shoes. It is stamped inside the drum. Also, if the set does not have the mounting accessories (springs, pins, washers), it is good to buy them separately.
Thanks! Cost me £8 for a 36mm socket, but saved me a couple of hundred pounds in labour costs!!!
Salut. La 2015 Dacia piulița care sutine capacul la tambur e de 30mm dar e stransa la 280 nm. Cheia mea dinamometrica merge pana la 220 de NM si nu m-as sui cu piciorul pe ea. Am indoit o bara incercand sa desfac acea piulita si nici nu s-a miscat. Nu avea pic de rugina pe ea dar zici ca era sudata. Un pistol de impact iti ușurează viata. Felicitări si cat mai multe vizualizări!
I have been doing drum brakes for nearly fifty years and the first place I start is by putting masking tape/painters tape on the braking surface of the new brake shoes. This will keep them clean and uncontaminated while they are fitted and simply ripped off before the drums are refitted. Nice video.
So perhaps you could answer why they say I don't have to remove the wheel nut, retaining clip on bearings, that I don't have to adjust anything and there are no retaining bolts and the drum lacks adjustment hole and I can't remove the drum even with no parking brakes applied.
I am a newbie. And another thing. How is it possible that the wheels itself hangs on the drums. The drum is not even connected to the 30 mm wheel nut assembly. The rear wheels should in theory wobble
Excellent video good step by step tutorial, you've definitely shown and made it look easy 👏
Bravo Vlad, ai reusit sa explici foarte bine tot procesul. Cheie tubulara de 36 am gasit la Leroi Merlin
The adjuster spring was on the outside when you originally pulled the drum off but when you put it back together you put it on the inside.
Tres bonne vidéo mais je pense que le couple de serrage du moyeu est de 280 Nm
Thank you for a very imformative video, however i did not se how you adjusted the "hand brake adjuster. Does uppvards make the shoes go more outward, and down more inward? Also what did yo do with the brake shoes after adjusting it?
Excellent video. Well presented. Thanks
Normally the adjusters adjust automatically. Just like they adjust while the shoes are wearing out.
Just pull on the handbrake as hard you can.
No, this type of wear adjusters do not adjust when the hand brake is used. The lever which is pulled by the hand brake cable uses the actual wear adjuster fork as a pivot point. Therefore there will be no gap between the adjuster and the shoes to adjust. Check this picture (top left, where the adjuster rests on the lever (silver)): images.app.goo.gl/8caVjG2eyjEBDoNu8
The only other, unorthodox, way of forcing the shoes to get closer to the brake drum is to step on the brake pedal like mad. So that the brake cylinder pushes the shoes enough so that a sufficient gap forms for the adjuster to extend with at least one click.
I see, thank you for the information and the great video. 👍
@@masterautoreviews1546 but if it uses the mechanism as a pivot it shoult autoadjust while braking with the normal breaks (foot). So it shoult autoadjust while normal driving after 1 or 2 breaks. then the handbreak should work fine...
@@andreasbrandstetter9221
On my Clio one side did not auto adjust, other did. I read somewhere for auto adjust to work right you need to brake while you drive in reverse like mad.
For right shoes pad clearance first you need to remove edge from drum with grinder or something like that, I did that and adjust my handbrake, it block both weels at 70km/h :).
Thank you for tutorials...
At 5.10 there is noise during unscrew..same noise in my car same model when I shaking the car while in parked…is that normal???
At 29 minutes I don't understand. How does he make the clicks? You pull the metal piece towards you and turn a small wheel behind it?
Hi there great video. Is the clio mk 4 2015 the same size socket 36mm?
Hi ! Should be the same socket size.
Everybit is helpful cheers from Scotland
nice video , what size is socket wrench please ?
forget my question I see all details on your comments thanks
36 mm
Excuse me ! Which size mm of socket wrench?
I believe it was 36 mm for the big nut.
De unde ai cuplul de strangere? Adica este din manualul de service ?
Very good video my brother. Thank you
Excellent very well explained
Well presented. Thanks
Thanks for the video. If you put jackstands, where is the best location ?
Good question. If you have high quality ones that come with rubber contact points you can use the same lift points as the ones in the video. Otherwise just place them underneath semi-rigid suspension arm, as close as possible to the drum while paying attention not to damage any other part or scraping the paint. This is how I would do it in order to work on the rear brakes.
@@masterautoreviews1546 thanks for your answer 👍
Danke Bruder!!!
Salut. Ce cod au sabotii ? Doresc sa ii schimb si eu . Multumesc.
Salut ! Am adaugat in descriere codurile OE (Renault) si cate un exemplu de coduri aftermarket.
Cati kilometri are Capturul tau ? Cel pe care am lucrat eu are putin sub 80000 km iar sabotii mai aveau 60-70 % viata. Nu cred ca ar trebui sa te gandesti la inlocuirea lor daca masina are sub 120000 km chiar daca sunt facuti preponderent urban.
Nu am Captur. Am un Logan MCV din 2016 . Franeaza ok dar se aude un scartait enervant cand pun frana , probabil trebuiesc unse exact cum ai facut tu dar a mea are 150.000 , ma gandesc ca ar fi momentul sa le schimb.
In cazul acesta, da, probabil ca e cazul sa arunci o privire pe acolo.
Great job! Looking forward to the next tutorial. Maybe we can do one on my car, as I have a squeaking noise coming from the alternator :).
thanks, very much.
Welcome!
Ad 9:52 you try to remove the brakedrum. Don 't use a screwdriver bud replace the complete wheel with 4 bolts and pull of.
Good point. It should work easier if done the way you describe it. However, I wanted to be extra carefull because there was a failure on the left wheel. The shoe lining was detached from the metal plate and was partially blocking the wheel rotation. I did not know how serious was the problem and wanted to take it slow.
@@masterautoreviews1546 The correct way is to unlock a brake pad lever. You do it through the screw thread hole. The brake pad move away from brakedrum and make it easier to take off. This mechanism is on all brakedrum.
Isn't the torque for the wheel nuts 105nm instead of 120nm like you've used?
105 is correct
Thank you!
Tanks very much. Hope I never have to do it again :)
Glad it helped
Goooooooood
very good
36 mm nut is necessary!!
23:20 you must have hands like King Kong, because that's bloody hard to do.
Edit:
I tried a needle nose pliers and for some reason it was much easier to do.
Great video, but stop the music 😩
Thanks, will be more carefull about sound levels next time ;)
@@masterautoreviews1546. Just watched another video, they said it was 22mm nut but looked the same size of yours
Which nut ? The main one holding the drum in place ?
@@masterautoreviews1546 yes. 👍
Definitely not a 22 mm nut. 36 mm is the right size.