Thanks for the technical info and the Portland update. What you described about Portland is what I expected. I appreciate your perspective which is impossible to get from the mass media with their left slant or right slant. Thanks.
Hi Hudson, thank you for the review and sharing you experience shooting with the Z6 and 20mm Z lens. Now I am excited! I have most of the gear except I have Sky-Watcher instead of the iOptron tracker. That Sprinter camper looks nice.
Hudson! Thanks for a great ATS, so many great things in there. That was a wonderful section on astrophotography, lenses, an star trackers. I learned more in that section than I have elsewhere - so many tips and pointers. Awesome. And appreciate and value your perspective on what was happening in Portland, a very balanced look. THANKS! Happy Friday.
As a Z6 owner interested in Astro photography, I really enjoyed this episode. As a concerned Citizen I was also interested in your reporting of the Portland protest with regard to the federal interference from a veterans perspective. I didn’t realize you had served. Interesting and scary times, stay safe out there
Hi Hudson. Excellent video all around. I was particularly interested to see your take on what's been going on downtown, and it's about what I expected, except with more people. I understand last night the Feds had left the scene and things were much more peaceful. Hope it stays that way. I'm enjoying my new Z6, and noticed the focus peaking is very handy for stars. It's low light performance kind of blows my mind. I remember when ASA 400 was considered fast, but got some decent raccoon pics the other night at ISO 40,000...
I would +1 your suggestion to create a video showing how you setup / use the star tracker. And i'll also echo the question - I wonder how that 14-30 would do on the tracker.
Thank you for documenting the events in your city. Listening to the news one is led to believe that it’s nothing but violence and people vandalizing and destroying instead of what you have shown: Americans in protest. Not violently or looting. Thank you. As always, I enjoy your weekly videos. Have to be careful or I will go shopping. 😀
Cool - I just got a notification that my 20mm Z lens shipped today so now after watching this I’m even more excited to get out with it on a clear night! Glad to hear you’re keeping out of the way of the craziness
With the Z7, you can also set your Center-OK button to zoom in to 100% in shooting mode. You can then use the Pinpoint AF mode and actually auto-focus on a star. Nails it every time.
@@stucker5860 No need. Once you focus on the star you’re set. If you focus only through your AF-ON button, the focus will stay on that star for the rest of the night.
Well it is peak milky way season here in the PNW for another month!!!!! Iv been going up to Mt Rainier and practicing, cant wait for the moon to drop back down in another week since the wild flowers are about to hit full bloom
Great content! One question I have that would be very interesting to hear: Have you tried realtime milkyway videos? Like in 1/25 shutter f1.8 and higgest iso possible. How would you noise reduce such a video?
I've had the Nikon Z6 for about a year now and been happily working away with the 24-70 f/4 that came with it. Today I got the 20mm f/1.8 S showcased by Hudson in this video. Now this may be an overreaction but something looks a bit odd at the rear of the lens. The rims around the edge of the glass look rough and a little amateur. On the 24-70 kit lens I got with the Z6 these rims are perfectly smooth. Has anyone else noticed this on their Nikkor Z 20mm f/1.8 S lens?
Great stuff as usual!! I’ve been wanting the 20mm 1.8 for my d850 ... but sounds like I should wait till I get into the Z world (next year I hope) and get the 20mm z
Hey Hudson - really enjoyed this video. I’m old school about astro photography but have been thinking about updating my techniques with the tracking capability available now. You’ve convinced me to take the plunge - there are a few options, but I’ve figured that very few actually are up to the task in our ultra high resolution world. I have the 20mm Z and a 15mm Laowa Z that’s pretty sharp as well. I look forward to purchasing any course you post, but one using star tracking technology would be greatly appreciated. On a different note, my son, who is a practicing appellate defense attorney in Seattle, lives two blocks from the former Chaz site. Other than tear gas spilling over into his condo, you’d never know anything was amiss. Don’t know about Portland, but the best Seattle media coverage has been from our local TV stations. After getting so much of my “news” online, I find myself trusting our local outlets more than ever. Lastly, thank you for your service.
Hudson Henry Photography Yes - saw that. B&H is out of the iOptron (even the electronic version and weird for them, they have no idea when they’re getting more inventory). The SkyWatcher wedge base is also back ordered, but they expect more in ~2 weeks. Thanks
I've shot some of my favorite images over the past 10 years with that lens, but if you're at all considering mirrorless (and I think you should be), it's be a bit hesitant. It's in my gear links though if you decide to go for it. It's a heavy beast, but stellar. Www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks
I've changed my Milky Way workflow away from the 500 rule to lower the shutter speed (8 to 10 seconds, 11mm, f 2.8, ISO 800 to 1600) and stack 10 to 15 images. I use DX lenses on my D500 for astro. Does the crop factor apply with DX lenses on crop sensor bodies? If it does, what are the distinguishing characteristics of a DX lens compared to an FX lens on a crop sensor body? My thinking was that DX lenses compensate for the difference of sensor size so that a 20mm focal length with a DX lens on a crop sensor body has the equivalent view of a 20mm focal length with an FX lens on a full frame sensor body.
No it applies still. The only difference in a DX lens is that it projects a smaller circle letting the company build a lighter cheaper lens with less materials. A 50mm is a 50mm projection no matter how big an image circle you crop from it. Photo Pills NPS rule calculation is the best automated App I have found. You enter the camera body, focal length and aperture and it does the calculation for you. On a D7200 11mm at 2.8 is 9.3 seconds by it's mark. ;-)
Thanks for another great video Hudson. Sounds like you will be doing a videos on post processing Milky Way photos. I am interested blending stacked sky images with a foreground image. Maybe you can address that. If you have already addressed that, please refer me to your video. By the way, I did get essentially your light weight tripod and head suggestion. I did opt for a slightly taller Leofoto tripod with the sacrifice of 0.6 pounds extra weight. I am also enjoying the Nikon Z6 with the 20mm f1.8 lens and will be looking forward to more on that in the future.
I'm a Vietiam Vet, support, loaded B52s with bombs, in U-Tapao Thailand. I have pictures from that on my Flickr account, most of the pictures were slides using a Canon Pellix camera with a 50mm f1.4 lens a few with a 28mm f3.5.
Im lookimg for tnhe best lens I can choose for astrophotography among the new Z lenses for my Z6II. I was so sure this 20mm 1.8S was the one. Which once should I get if this one has so much coma ?
Thank you for showing the lens in use for things like reportage / street photography. It's like almost all reviews seem to focus exclusively on astro photography (a topic I really have no interest in).
That's just because it's the best astro lens most of us have ever used. Zero chromatic aberation wide open even in the corners is a thing of wonder I the night sky. It's a great wide angle for any thing of course including street. I lean to 28-35mm for that sort of work personally though. All of Nikon's S lenses are just astounding. It's hard to go wrong. All the Z lenses really. I'm really enjoying the new little 24 1.7 DX lens on my Z50. If I didn't have the Leica Q3 that would be my street rig of choice. It's got fabulous IQ.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto I have the 35 and 50, both great lenses. I’ve been thinking though to swap the 35 for a 24 or 20.. if there was a 28 S lens I’d go for that, but it seems Nikon keeps that focal length for their smaller lenses (understandably).
Star tracker provides very cool capability. That 14-30 F4 seems to give the 20mm F1.8 a pretty good run with just slightly softer edges. Particularly if you are using the star tracker to enable the long exposures.
We had a similar experience in Albuquerque with a small group of disruptive people aggravating the protests.. The difference here is that the nonviolent protesters drove off the trouble makers from whatever external group was causing the trouble.
Thanks Hudson. Your such an inspiration to my family and I. Not just in photography, but life as well. We really appreciate your service to our country and to the photography community as well. Thanks for the Portland update from a non polarized perspective. Keep producing content for us. We need it in these times. Cheers!
Comet NEOWISE regenerated my interest in night sky photography. My Sigma 105mm f/1.4 ART lens rocked it on the comet, but f/1.4 does not do your foreground any favors (and my image blending skills - don't have any :^) ). Played with some of the other Z lenses and got decent results, but they also made the comet look so small. And found F/4 to be wanting. A lot. Other online resources also use that star tracker (I have Vixen GP DX GEM, but that is a lot of mount) and speak highly of the 20mm. So dang. This video is going to cost me. :D
:-) I love 105 so much. It's such a great length. The 20 is really lovely. You won't regret it. I'm playing with a lighter cheaper star guider for wide angles now too. More to come on that soon.
Great content, thank you! Move-Shoot-Move rotator is also a good alternative - $200, very light (for us old f*rts), and polar alignment is super easy with the laser pointer (am not affiliated with them in any way :)
I’m interested in getting started with astrophotography but primarily do landscape shots. I’m looking for my first wide angle lens for my Z6 and am stuck between 20mm 1.8 and the 14-30 mm F4. Any thoughts much appreciated I’m so stressed between the two lol
It's a tough call. The 14-30 is such a great, versatile landscape lens. The 20 1.8 kills for astro, but it's far less versatile. 14 is 30‰ wider than 20 and 30 is 50% longer. You can do astro with the 14-30 and the move shoot move tracker. All of it is at my links... Www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto could I get the Milky Way with the 14-30? I would only do Astro on limited occasions. I live in PA and have a lot of light pollution. Mostly would do Astro when I visit national parks
Yes with that lightweight move shoot move star tracker I mentioned in the links. You just have to composite the fore and background images. I'm going to do a course on that soon. :)
Where you able to directly connect the Z Cameras’ shutter to the iOptron, or did you use an intervalometer? Switching from D810 to Z6 lost my ability to directly connect my camera to my Star Adventurer tracker.
I felt no need for the star work. I use a different system for motion time-lapse so I haven't tried that. I just turn it off for the foreground and on for the star field. :-)
Absolutely enjoyed the Milky Way shots for lens comparisons. An eye-opener to see the artifacts at the lens perimeters and their variation/improvement from lens to lens. I'm starting to understand better your commentary about how equipment continues to get better with new model releases. Wrongly, I had thought it was mostly photo equipment mfgs' marketing hype. Well, okay, I still don't believe it all... but I do believe what you demo. 👍 😉
Have you shot with the 24mm S at all? I have that lens, used it a bit for astro and like it but I'm curious if the 20mm is better for that kind of thing. I bought the 24mm for a wide night street lens.
No I haven't. I haven't even researched it much. 20 had always been a favorite presume length of mine and nikon has a history of 20s I've loved. They specifically touted its lack of coma and CA for night work in the marketing at release so I've been stoked to test it.
Hi Hudson. I have tried to compare manual focusing with just power cycling the z7 and allowing it find infinity. It seems that my skill to find accurate focus at night at high iso is no better than power cycling. I suppose I should try during good light. Any comments on your experience with this. Love your content this week. Will you be running the Portland workshop when shooting the moon this weekend?
I get more accurate results through the viewfinder manually minimizing the size of a planet or very bright star wide open and zoomed in to 100% than power cycling. Sometimes low light AF nails it, but manual seems more consistent.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Sorry to hear about the workshop. With luck this will be over soon, and its been a great time to slow down and re-balance whats important in life.. I will give the manual focusing another shot. I find it hard to get a very accurate image at high ISO, with all the sensor noise. I should do the tests in reasonable light and try to get an idea of how power cycling compares to manual focusing, so I get a feel for how far to move it. I agree I tended to get inconsistent results with pinpoint / low light unless I used a large planet.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto 14-24 probably most versatile for my use, but then I would have to swap it for mye 14-30 F4. Or would that lense work good enough with a star tracker?
It's way too slow to work at optimum iso. That's why I love the 20. 500 iso, 1.8, 90s. The 14-24 takes that to 240s @ that's 8 minutes with noise reduction. Double that at F4. Or add lots of noise... Too much compromise.
Also I have the Z7 and got my son, 43, the Z50 to replace his D7000, my first real camera in well over 40 plus years. If you are interested I'll post a link to my Flickr Page.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto U-Tapao Thailand, May 1970 to May 1971 www.flickr.com/photos/186765418@N06/albums/72157713582906062 Bob Hope Christmas Show www.flickr.com/photos/186765418@N06/albums/72157713558239343
First, thank you for your service in the military. Second, always enjoy your videos and learn from them. However, you might want to either stay away from downtown Portland or go there when the rioters come out, which is normally between 1 and 4 AM. you report on a quiet time that occurs before the violence starts. How many officers have been injured in Portland????
Thanks so much. I really appreciate that and value your input. I have to very respectfully suggest that if you came to observe yourself, you'd find that narrative is not accurate. Especially now.. I mentioned that there were misguided, angry kids shaking things up and staying late with fireworks and homemade body armor to draw the DHS troops out. I also saw armed right wingers with military body armor and Hawaiian shirts that scared me much more. All of it was incredibly exacerbated by the federal presence and we've had peaceful protestors horrifically injured from a fractured skull to a veteran's broken arm which was clearly never raised as he was beaten and pepper sprayed by DHS. I've spent my time in Iraq and Kuwait's combat zones in my youth and I can tell you that the word riot applied to my city is anything but accurate. That's why Pence was wise enough to agree to a deal with Brown to pull out. It didn't work out. The crowds grew each night of the occupation and there were were too many images of moms and veterans getting clubbed and gassed and no hardened rioters to prosecute and use as poster images. Just misguided kids. If these scary rioters existed, their mugshots would be all over certain media outlets. The kids they're catching look like our own under the homemade anti-fascist outfits they wear. All they've really found are fireworks, graffiti , fence rattling and water bottle throwing. It was sticks and stones vs military grade weaponry in inexperienced hands. Since the federal withdrawl that Pence was wise enough to broker we've had two peaceful nights downtown. I'd stay late down there any time without the tension the feds created. I'll bring my kids downtown at night again. The out of control rioting narrative simply rings false on the ground in this thriving, vibrant, fun little city that I'm proud to call home.
Technically what you are referring as 'coma' is Sagittal Astigmatism, coma is a slightly different phenomenon. Check out this great article describing all sorts of lens imperfections: www.lonelyspeck.com/a-practical-guide-to-lens-aberrations-and-the-lonely-speck-aberration-test/
You’re awesome! You have this Big Lebowski coolness and just a great photog teacher much appreciation!!
Thanks for the technical info and the Portland update. What you described about Portland is what I expected. I appreciate your perspective which is impossible to get from the mass media with their left slant or right slant. Thanks.
Hi Hudson, thank you for the review and sharing you experience shooting with the Z6 and 20mm Z lens. Now I am excited! I have most of the gear except I have Sky-Watcher instead of the iOptron tracker. That Sprinter camper looks nice.
Hudson! Thanks for a great ATS, so many great things in there. That was a wonderful section on astrophotography, lenses, an star trackers. I learned more in that section than I have elsewhere - so many tips and pointers. Awesome. And appreciate and value your perspective on what was happening in Portland, a very balanced look. THANKS! Happy Friday.
As a Z6 owner interested in Astro photography, I really enjoyed this episode. As a concerned Citizen I was also interested in your reporting of the Portland protest with regard to the federal interference from a veterans perspective. I didn’t realize you had served. Interesting and scary times, stay safe out there
Always learn something, THANK-YOU. You are leading the way with your pragmatic , rational approach to social issues , reinforced with great photos.
Great review, I have Z6, but not the 20 yet. Also appreciate an honest review of protests, as we in Michigan only hear what the news shows us.
Hi Hudson. Excellent video all around. I was particularly interested to see your take on what's been going on downtown, and it's about what I expected, except with more people. I understand last night the Feds had left the scene and things were much more peaceful. Hope it stays that way. I'm enjoying my new Z6, and noticed the focus peaking is very handy for stars. It's low light performance kind of blows my mind. I remember when ASA 400 was considered fast, but got some decent raccoon pics the other night at ISO 40,000...
Fantastic content and explanation as usual. I use Z7 and new to Astro, which lens would you suggest for me 'Z 20mm f/1.8' or 'Z 14-24mm f/2.8'
I would +1 your suggestion to create a video showing how you setup / use the star tracker. And i'll also echo the question - I wonder how that 14-30 would do on the tracker.
Thank you for documenting the events in your city. Listening to the news one is led to believe that it’s nothing but violence and people vandalizing and destroying instead of what you have shown: Americans in protest. Not violently or looting. Thank you. As always, I enjoy your weekly videos. Have to be careful or I will go shopping. 😀
I bought a z6 II recently. The 20mm is next on my list. Can't wait to get my hands on one. Milky way season is about to start.
Cool - I just got a notification that my 20mm Z lens shipped today so now after watching this I’m even more excited to get out with it on a clear night!
Glad to hear you’re keeping out of the way of the craziness
I already have the 14-30z and was wondering for Astro if I’d be better off getting a sky tracker with that lens or get the 20mm 1.8z?
With the Z7, you can also set your Center-OK button to zoom in to 100% in shooting mode. You can then use the Pinpoint AF mode and actually auto-focus on a star. Nails it every time.
So then do you switch to manual focus after using pinpoint?
@@stucker5860 No need. Once you focus on the star you’re set. If you focus only through your AF-ON button, the focus will stay on that star for the rest of the night.
I only have the Z 24-70 F4 and the Z 50 1.8 for the S lens so far, but the 50 has you may know is SHARP as HELL.
Well it is peak milky way season here in the PNW for another month!!!!! Iv been going up to Mt Rainier and practicing, cant wait for the moon to drop back down in another week since the wild flowers are about to hit full bloom
Can't wait to see...
Great content! One question I have that would be very interesting to hear: Have you tried realtime milkyway videos? Like in 1/25 shutter f1.8 and higgest iso possible. How would you noise reduce such a video?
I don't think it will work without timelapse, but if you want the best video noise reduction leave it to the Neat Noise plug in. It's amazing.
I've had the Nikon Z6 for about a year now and been happily working away with the 24-70 f/4 that came with it. Today I got the 20mm f/1.8 S showcased by Hudson in this video. Now this may be an overreaction but something looks a bit odd at the rear of the lens. The rims around the edge of the glass look rough and a little amateur. On the 24-70 kit lens I got with the Z6 these rims are perfectly smooth. Has anyone else noticed this on their Nikkor Z 20mm f/1.8 S lens?
Great stuff as usual!! I’ve been wanting the 20mm 1.8 for my d850 ... but sounds like I should wait till I get into the Z world (next year I hope) and get the 20mm z
Hey Hudson - really enjoyed this video. I’m old school about astro photography but have been thinking about updating my techniques with the tracking capability available now. You’ve convinced me to take the plunge - there are a few options, but I’ve figured that very few actually are up to the task in our ultra high resolution world. I have the 20mm Z and a 15mm Laowa Z that’s pretty sharp as well. I look forward to purchasing any course you post, but one using star tracking technology would be greatly appreciated. On a different note, my son, who is a practicing appellate defense attorney in Seattle, lives two blocks from the former Chaz site. Other than tear gas spilling over into his condo, you’d never know anything was amiss. Don’t know about Portland, but the best Seattle media coverage has been from our local TV stations. After getting so much of my “news” online, I find myself trusting our local outlets more than ever. Lastly, thank you for your service.
Thanks Carl. I'm planning to do that course. And it's the same here. :)
Oh there are links to the one I picked in the video description. I bought a tracker by iOptron, but a different base that's nicer to use.
Hudson Henry Photography Yes - saw that. B&H is out of the iOptron (even the electronic version and weird for them, they have no idea when they’re getting more inventory). The SkyWatcher wedge base is also back ordered, but they expect more in ~2 weeks. Thanks
Great Video thanks for the post. I shoot Nikon D850 at the moment would you recommend the 14-24 on this system? Please stay safe all the very best.
I've shot some of my favorite images over the past 10 years with that lens, but if you're at all considering mirrorless (and I think you should be), it's be a bit hesitant. It's in my gear links though if you decide to go for it. It's a heavy beast, but stellar. Www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks
I've changed my Milky Way workflow away from the 500 rule to lower the shutter speed (8 to 10 seconds, 11mm, f 2.8, ISO 800 to 1600) and stack 10 to 15 images. I use DX lenses on my D500 for astro. Does the crop factor apply with DX lenses on crop sensor bodies? If it does, what are the distinguishing characteristics of a DX lens compared to an FX lens on a crop sensor body? My thinking was that DX lenses compensate for the difference of sensor size so that a 20mm focal length with a DX lens on a crop sensor body has the equivalent view of a 20mm focal length with an FX lens on a full frame sensor body.
No it applies still. The only difference in a DX lens is that it projects a smaller circle letting the company build a lighter cheaper lens with less materials. A 50mm is a 50mm projection no matter how big an image circle you crop from it. Photo Pills NPS rule calculation is the best automated App I have found. You enter the camera body, focal length and aperture and it does the calculation for you. On a D7200 11mm at 2.8 is 9.3 seconds by it's mark. ;-)
Thanks for another great video Hudson. Sounds like you will be doing a videos on post processing Milky Way photos. I am interested blending stacked sky images with a foreground image. Maybe you can address that. If you have already addressed that, please refer me to your video.
By the way, I did get essentially your light weight tripod and head suggestion. I did opt for a slightly taller Leofoto tripod with the sacrifice of 0.6 pounds extra weight.
I am also enjoying the Nikon Z6 with the 20mm f1.8 lens and will be looking forward to more on that in the future.
I'm a Vietiam Vet, support, loaded B52s with bombs, in U-Tapao Thailand. I have pictures from that on my Flickr account, most of the pictures were slides using a Canon Pellix camera with a 50mm f1.4 lens a few with a 28mm f3.5.
Thank you for your service!!!!
Im lookimg for tnhe best lens I can choose for astrophotography among the new Z lenses for my Z6II.
I was so sure this 20mm 1.8S was the one. Which once should I get if this one has so much coma ?
I think you watched it wrong. Watch it over. It's a comparison of old and new. The 20 1.8 F has horrible Coma. The 20 1.8 S has almost ZERO coma.
Thank you for showing the lens in use for things like reportage / street photography. It's like almost all reviews seem to focus exclusively on astro photography (a topic I really have no interest in).
That's just because it's the best astro lens most of us have ever used. Zero chromatic aberation wide open even in the corners is a thing of wonder I the night sky. It's a great wide angle for any thing of course including street. I lean to 28-35mm for that sort of work personally though. All of Nikon's S lenses are just astounding. It's hard to go wrong. All the Z lenses really. I'm really enjoying the new little 24 1.7 DX lens on my Z50. If I didn't have the Leica Q3 that would be my street rig of choice. It's got fabulous IQ.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto I have the 35 and 50, both great lenses. I’ve been thinking though to swap the 35 for a 24 or 20.. if there was a 28 S lens I’d go for that, but it seems Nikon keeps that focal length for their smaller lenses (understandably).
Star tracker provides very cool capability. That 14-30 F4 seems to give the 20mm F1.8 a pretty good run with just slightly softer edges. Particularly if you are using the star tracker to enable the long exposures.
Yep... I'm thinking it's time to test the 50... :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto It's the sharpest yet S lens.
We had a similar experience in Albuquerque with a small group of disruptive people aggravating the protests.. The difference here is that the nonviolent protesters drove off the trouble makers from whatever external group was causing the trouble.
Thanks Hudson. Your such an inspiration to my family and I. Not just in photography, but life as well. We really appreciate your service to our country and to the photography community as well. Thanks for the Portland update from a non polarized perspective. Keep producing content for us. We need it in these times. Cheers!
That comment makes my night. Thanks!
Comet NEOWISE regenerated my interest in night sky photography. My Sigma 105mm f/1.4 ART lens rocked it on the comet, but f/1.4 does not do your foreground any favors (and my image blending skills - don't have any :^) ). Played with some of the other Z lenses and got decent results, but they also made the comet look so small. And found F/4 to be wanting. A lot.
Other online resources also use that star tracker (I have Vixen GP DX GEM, but that is a lot of mount) and speak highly of the 20mm. So dang. This video is going to cost me. :D
:-) I love 105 so much. It's such a great length. The 20 is really lovely. You won't regret it. I'm playing with a lighter cheaper star guider for wide angles now too. More to come on that soon.
Thanks for the Portland protest photos. Sharp and lighting was well balanced...what was your focus point/zone used? Auto ISO? Av Program?
Shutter priority at between 1/60 and 1/100 with auto ISO and continuous with dynamic area. :-)
Great video! Thank you.....Subscribed!
Great content, thank you! Move-Shoot-Move rotator is also a good alternative - $200, very light (for us old f*rts), and polar alignment is super easy with the laser pointer (am not affiliated with them in any way :)
I took your advice Jim to try it. Love it! I'm a big fan and will be promoting them too as a great lightweight system. Thank you so much!
I’m interested in getting started with astrophotography but primarily do landscape shots. I’m looking for my first wide angle lens for my Z6 and am stuck between 20mm 1.8 and the 14-30 mm F4. Any thoughts much appreciated I’m so stressed between the two lol
It's a tough call. The 14-30 is such a great, versatile landscape lens. The 20 1.8 kills for astro, but it's far less versatile. 14 is 30‰ wider than 20 and 30 is 50% longer. You can do astro with the 14-30 and the move shoot move tracker. All of it is at my links... Www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto could I get the Milky Way with the 14-30? I would only do Astro on limited occasions. I live in PA and have a lot of light pollution. Mostly would do Astro when I visit national parks
Yes with that lightweight move shoot move star tracker I mentioned in the links. You just have to composite the fore and background images. I'm going to do a course on that soon. :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto you rock!!!!!!!!!
@@HudsonHenryPhoto would I need a tracker for the 20mm? Do you have any landscape daytime images with the 20?
Where you able to directly connect the Z Cameras’ shutter to the iOptron, or did you use an intervalometer? Switching from D810 to Z6 lost my ability to directly connect my camera to my Star Adventurer tracker.
I felt no need for the star work. I use a different system for motion time-lapse so I haven't tried that. I just turn it off for the foreground and on for the star field. :-)
For really long shutterspeed at f4 then use a startracker.
Do you use long exposure noise reduction when photographing the stars. If so, what is your opinion on it's effectiveness?
Absolutely enjoyed the Milky Way shots for lens comparisons. An eye-opener to see the artifacts at the lens perimeters and their variation/improvement from lens to lens. I'm starting to understand better your commentary about how equipment continues to get better with new model releases. Wrongly, I had thought it was mostly photo equipment mfgs' marketing hype. Well, okay, I still don't believe it all... but I do believe what you demo. 👍 😉
Have you shot with the 24mm S at all? I have that lens, used it a bit for astro and like it but I'm curious if the 20mm is better for that kind of thing. I bought the 24mm for a wide night street lens.
No I haven't. I haven't even researched it much. 20 had always been a favorite presume length of mine and nikon has a history of 20s I've loved. They specifically touted its lack of coma and CA for night work in the marketing at release so I've been stoked to test it.
Hi Hudson. I have tried to compare manual focusing with just power cycling the z7 and allowing it find infinity. It seems that my skill to find accurate focus at night at high iso is no better than power cycling. I suppose I should try during good light. Any comments on your experience with this. Love your content this week. Will you be running the Portland workshop when shooting the moon this weekend?
I get more accurate results through the viewfinder manually minimizing the size of a planet or very bright star wide open and zoomed in to 100% than power cycling. Sometimes low light AF nails it, but manual seems more consistent.
Sadly covid knocked out the Portland workshop. I would have been.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Sorry to hear about the workshop. With luck this will be over soon, and its been a great time to slow down and re-balance whats important in life.. I will give the manual focusing another shot. I find it hard to get a very accurate image at high ISO, with all the sensor noise. I should do the tests in reasonable light and try to get an idea of how power cycling compares to manual focusing, so I get a feel for how far to move it. I agree I tended to get inconsistent results with pinpoint / low light unless I used a large planet.
What do you aim at with the Star Tracker for the Southern Hemishphere
The southern cross, but you'll need to look at exactly where.
Nice. Still looking for a astro z lense.
That's the 20 on any star tracker. Can't beat it. The 14-24 S rocks too, just takes a longer exposure at 2.8
@@HudsonHenryPhoto 14-24 probably most versatile for my use, but then I would have to swap it for mye 14-30 F4. Or would that lense work good enough with a star tracker?
It's way too slow to work at optimum iso. That's why I love the 20. 500 iso, 1.8, 90s. The 14-24 takes that to 240s @ that's 8 minutes with noise reduction. Double that at F4. Or add lots of noise... Too much compromise.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Ok. Thats what I thought. Have to think about the z20 then 🙂👍
When you talk about the old 20 mm, the "wings" are astigmatism and not comma. Comma is the triangular body of these "birds". Not that it matters...
Fair enough but interrelated and rarely differentiated in our photographic nomenclature. And yes, bad either way ;)
Also I have the Z7 and got my son, 43, the Z50 to replace his D7000, my first real camera in well over 40 plus years. If you are interested I'll post a link to my Flickr Page.
The 50 is a favorite of mine. Sure.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto
U-Tapao Thailand, May 1970 to May 1971
www.flickr.com/photos/186765418@N06/albums/72157713582906062
Bob Hope Christmas Show
www.flickr.com/photos/186765418@N06/albums/72157713558239343
Love from India
First, thank you for your service in the military. Second, always enjoy your videos and learn from them. However, you might want to either stay away from downtown Portland or go there when the rioters come out, which is normally between 1 and 4 AM. you report on a quiet time that occurs before the violence starts. How many officers have been injured in Portland????
Thanks so much. I really appreciate that and value your input. I have to very respectfully suggest that if you came to observe yourself, you'd find that narrative is not accurate. Especially now.. I mentioned that there were misguided, angry kids shaking things up and staying late with fireworks and homemade body armor to draw the DHS troops out. I also saw armed right wingers with military body armor and Hawaiian shirts that scared me much more. All of it was incredibly exacerbated by the federal presence and we've had peaceful protestors horrifically injured from a fractured skull to a veteran's broken arm which was clearly never raised as he was beaten and pepper sprayed by DHS.
I've spent my time in Iraq and Kuwait's combat zones in my youth and I can tell you that the word riot applied to my city is anything but accurate. That's why Pence was wise enough to agree to a deal with Brown to pull out. It didn't work out. The crowds grew each night of the occupation and there were were too many images of moms and veterans getting clubbed and gassed and no hardened rioters to prosecute and use as poster images. Just misguided kids. If these scary rioters existed, their mugshots would be all over certain media outlets. The kids they're catching look like our own under the homemade anti-fascist outfits they wear. All they've really found are fireworks, graffiti , fence rattling and water bottle throwing. It was sticks and stones vs military grade weaponry in inexperienced hands.
Since the federal withdrawl that Pence was wise enough to broker we've had two peaceful nights downtown. I'd stay late down there any time without the tension the feds created. I'll bring my kids downtown at night again. The out of control rioting narrative simply rings false on the ground in this thriving, vibrant, fun little city that I'm proud to call home.
I don't care about your AC, I care about what you have to say.
Technically what you are referring as 'coma' is Sagittal Astigmatism, coma is a slightly different phenomenon. Check out this great article describing all sorts of lens imperfections: www.lonelyspeck.com/a-practical-guide-to-lens-aberrations-and-the-lonely-speck-aberration-test/
lean left and everything goes up in price.