This video is charming. It tells so much about something I've learned from studying great painters of many currents. They talked about capturing the moment before action. Therein lie the masterpieces. It wasn't painting for painting's sake, it's not shooting and shooting. It is waiting for that moment. Compose, we all do, capture that instance and be in the right place, with the perfect angle ... Very few. Fantastic Matt! Oh! And those masters of painting controlled the light in the shade very well, you also talk about it in this video. Thinking seriously about that 20mm instead of the 14-30. Greetings from Uruguay
Thanks Maxi for those very kind words :). I often like to blur the line in my photography between photograph and painting... and fog helps by making the world soft. : ) As for the lens, so difficult to choose. Do you have any previous F glass? Hello to Uruguay. Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography The only f mount glass that I keep is the Sigma Sports 70-200 2.8. Some vintage: Hellios 58mm, Pentax 50 1.4, Tamron 28mm 2.8 BAR, and had a Nikkor Q 135mm 2.8. So, I use the Z35mm for almost everything around here. And no doubts that the Z20mm will be my next glass. I think it could be a nice street kit with the Z50. Salute and take care!
Very difficult Sorin ... I have not used the 14-30, but I do own the 14-24 2.8 F mount, I feel the quality is better on the 20mm Z. And in a way I like the fixed focal length. When confronted with this sort of weather you have to move very fast. The extra possibilities of 14-24 ... I think I would choose the 20mm - might change my mind when I actually get to use the 14-30. :) Cheers Matt
Yes it is beautiful in SF. I have visited 3 times in my life. Looking forward to the next time. Thanks Tom. What camera are you creating with in 2020? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography I like to photograph Rock an Heavy Metal concerts the most. Quite challenging the setting, no control over the lighting and the people involved. I also like photographing women.
The monochrome look works exceptionally well with the fog and buildings. Liked much more than the colour. Cant wait for a foggy morning in Brissy now so I can try my hand at it and see if I have the same level of enthusiasm.
Stunning images, we get fog even less frequently here in Perth. Thanks for sharing your creative walk around and processing. The Nikkor Z 20mm S is definitely on my wishlist due to it's fit for so many of my photography loves - landscape, astrophotography, architecture, street and no doubt more yet to be discovered.
Ooooh! My turn to share a teaching moment (from a Capture One video a week ago on the new version). Ditch Spot and use the Healing Mask (looks like a band-aid next to the rubber stamp icon in the Layers section. Much more powerful than Spot removal. I really really miss the fog we got off of Lake Superior. :( Hardly ever get it in Phoenix - really special when it happens.
That was a great morning .. I was driving on the Westgate Freeway that morning and noticed the amazing fog and light blanket the buildings and light streaming through like a baroque painting. Unfortunately I had a photo shot to go to otherwise, I would have got my 20mm 1.8 and z6 and taken a few shots too! Enjoy your Videos Matt - thanks!
Great Images Matt, from a wonderfull town. The 20/1.8 is for shure a very good Lens, but i prefer the 14-30/f 4.0. The 35/50/85 1.8 work with my Z-Kameras. Because i am still using my DSLR‘s the 70-200 find it‘s way with the Adapter on the Z-Mount.
Thanks so much Juergen, yes I must get my hands on the 14-30 sometimes soon. Always so many things to purchase when a new system comes out ... Cheers Matt :)
Super video Matt and wow what fabulous conditions to shoot in. My wife and I love the 20mm, after a long 3 month wait my wife finally had her one delivered this week and say she’s pleased is a bit of an understatement. What a fabulous lens and we both can’t wait to use it properly 😀👍
Let's focus on a photographer who can look at the weather and light and knows where to go to get great shots. Who has an awareness of when to leave home in order to still get the light and the shots. Or else all the dummies start talking about how good sensors are.
Hi Matt, great to see you really enjoying the moment, I could feel the emotion. If I looked out the window and it was foggy I would dive back under the duvet! Not next time, thanks for the inspiration.
@@stevewestonphotography I think there would be some amazing fog there, are you near Brighton, I just love that area to photograph, I must come back one day :)
"You want to be on manual", Matt says in the video. That's what I've always done. But. Now with the Z 7, I have "expose for the highlights". White-balance and ISO are always on a fixed setting, for me. That is important with the Z now, as it applies two gain levels to the sensor, depending on your ISO choice. Stay under 160 ISO or above 640. Choose 400 for lots of grain (this is where the low gain level bumps into dynamic range issues). This is not an exclusive Nikon Z thing and you'll have to figure out if your Sony or other camera has a similar architecture and where the gain level switch is relative to ISO. White balance is a non-issue for raw shooters and where Matt is, like here in NW Europe, I would be on "Cloudy" 90% of the time, including flash. "I underexpose to maintain color", Matt says in the video. Expose for the highlights in these city- and land-scapes gives excellent exposures. Set aperture of choice (1.8 here) and I would set ISO as low as possible (in the normal setting range). No need to underexpose whatsoever. And, if you open in PS as 32-bit, you get access to gradation resolution in the highlights (and lowlights) that you did not think was there.
Cheers Matt thanks for some run and gun, and some composition thoughts too. Glad you found some fog. The 20mm does a nice job, but I think the operator is having quite an influence on the outcome.
Today I was watching a golf tournament in San Francisco. Cyprus trees on the golf course. Blimp shots that merge the fog with the trees and then the foggy skyline behind it.
Hi Mat - love your enthusiasm (and the fact you are an Aussie, me too) - I love foggy days too - do exactly the same. Also you use Capture One - I really like its approach to editing.
I need a friend like you to go out walking the city like this. Great video, now I want that prime. But I have the 70 - 200 2.8 pre ordered. Now if it would come out
@@MattIrwinPhotography The little State of RI USA. That would be awesome. Maybe one day. if you are up for it though, i see you using Capture One. I have been using Adobe light room Classic. What are your thoughts on Capture one compared. i already see some cool features. anyway. Great photo's. those were definitely some beautiful morning Sun breaks.... keep up the awesome job... Be safe.. keep shooting.
@@tbeau29 Thanks Thomas, Capture One is an all in one place workflow. Which I prefer as I came from using Apple's Aperture. They are similar. And you can buy Capture One outright, so no ongoing costs, unless you buy a new camera ... Cheers Matt
Love your stuff, only got the funds for one and I am torn between the 20 1.8s and the 14-30 . I know they are really different but I really think they both are great.
Hello Steve, I have a Z6 and a 14-30. You can see here a direct comparison between Z20 and Z14-30 : ruclips.net/video/Okshe7mcfSM/видео.html. Hope it help you.
looks like you need to clean your sensor because of those spots Matt,I'm sure you realize that,I have cleaned my slr sensor before but I am wondering if doing that on a camera with ibis is risky because that likely makes it more delicate?I have not done that yet,I try not to change lenses too often or in a dusty or windy environments
Hi Derrick, in this case I actually think it is the lens, once i stop down a little the internal dust stars to appear, and the dust does not appear on all images taken with this camera, and I did not remove the lens once I started shooting. Cheers Matt : )
Great video! I want to buy the Z6 but there is no "affordable" and lightweight tele zoom available :( Any recommendations for a F-mount tele zoom lens (F4 would be enough) I could adapt? Need it also for hiking ... (I thought about buying a 50-250 Z DX or a Tamron 70-210 F-mount)
Thanks Patrick, Well I think the best bet right now for price and weight for hiking is the 50-250 Z DX. Have you seen the video I made about it a few weeks ago, I think it is great for what it offers, and perfect for hiking ... Cheers Ma
@@MattIrwinPhotography thanks! yes, I saw the video. Only disadvantage is that I only get 10 MP with the Z6. But since I only need the tele zoom occasionally it should be okay ...
@@patrick.771 Yeah good point ... depends on your final usage. I would consider it a stop gap purchase until the Z 70-200 F4 arrives in a few years .... :)
Matt Irwin Photography, I know the faster lenses are usually twice the price and weight and often marginally inferior in some aspects but there is so much new stuff coming out theses days it’s difficult to keep up with the latest and greatest It’s so easy to become inflicted with gear acquisition syndrome, it’s good to sometimes not jump into the first things offered often followed by the better one soon after Kindest regards
Matt Irwin Photography Yeah I have been, obviously we don’t have any tall buildings here so it’s more minimalist solo tree in the lake stuff. If only I didn’t have to work for a living I’d get out a lot more.
Matt I’m a long time Nikon shooter I have been using some Fuji and love the evf thinking of selling my D850 to pay for a z6 can you share ur thought Re this specifically how will my old glass cope I short a wide range of styles
Hmmm Michael, well I think you will love the Z6, the only downside from the D850 I can see is a drop in resolution from 45 - 24 MP, if that does not bother you then I would move to the Z6 I love all 3 of my Z cameras. As for the glass it works super well. No problems and you get IBIS on the Z6 which you don't have on the D850. And are you ok with one card slot ? Cheers Matt
Hi thanks for reply can live with one card I’m old enough to remember film i can handle the 24mp don’t print super big it’s the evf info and ibis with reduced size that I want on the ff sensor
@@MattIrwinPhotography Well, it looked like there was some good reflection off the tracks. Low angle high contrast photos, maybe some wetness and/or dew.
I love fog but I'm scared of humidity getting in the lens and getting fungus and/or fogging up :( do you have any tips on dealing with that? Love the shots, anything with god rays looks amazing!
Yeah the GOD rays, love them too. Don't be afraid, we have this gear to use it and make great things. I have never had fungus in a lens ever. And that is with 31 years of shooting the fog. Where are you in the world? Cheers Matt
Keystoning (actually keystone correction). With all the gear you have, Matt, you ought to give a try to a nodal slide and panorama stitching. In this case, using the 20mm vertically could have allowed you to maintain the sensor in the vertical plane, parallel to the building facades. Three or four shots horizontally and you have more detail. If LR cannot easily stitch them, then PS has sublime stitching powers. Wow. Yes, you need a tripod for that. Sorry. You may find less color noise (that might actually be motion blur in the deepest levels of the dynamic range). And what you loose in the crop is determined by you, not the keystoning. If you have no close foreground, you can do this handheld with the Z and PS, but using a nodal slide makes it a lot easier, computationally. In the case of these buildings, I would have tested my 3D nodal slide to see how well the setup does when I shoot a multi-row panorama with the, say, 50/1.8S
Another great set of ideas JP, I wonder if I am too impatient for multi-shot panoramas, what I find with the fog, is it is so fast moving, that I would only get one shot. Instead of 10 ... how quickly can you shoot a pano, is the slide cumbersome / heavy? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography - ;) you completely match my prejudice based of having sensed a bit of impatience. There is that, even for patient people. Motion of water and sky can be very fast and give even PS a hard time, but it is a matter of finding your, gear, and weather's limitations. As to gear, I have this 3D nodal thing that has adjustment discs with clicks. You set the angle of the lens and after each shot rotate to the next click. This requires a bit of fine motor skills. And then it goes really fast. There are a few electronic 3D heads, but in my prejudice, they are slower. With some brands you can buy the parts but if you want to end up with a 3D (i.e. multi-row) "head" I would advise to buy a set (for a lot of money) in one go as it saves. I was looking for Novoflex as they are the best IMO, but bought Sunwayfoto for less money. If you don't have a tripod yet, I would advise something like a Gitzo System 3 without column, where the legs meet, there is a removable plate and you can put a "75mm half ball" into that. This gives a very fast and extremely sturdy leveling base on which to mount (which you don't need in the 3D set anymore). I think Gitzo's half ball is very expensive and for still I would buy a cheaper one of their sister company Manfrotto. For a horizontal pano, what do you need, if you already had this? The panorama disc with clicks (I call that a disc as it rotates in one plane). If that disc has Ara mount, you need a nodal slide (rail) to mount on the disc. That slide can slide in the disc's Arca mount. You should then be able to mount your camera on the Arca quick mount on the nodal slide/rail, which is either integrated on that, or a separate sliding "carriage" on that. As these slides/rails have mm position indication, you now have to find the nodal point of your lens. For ...scapes it is best to do this with the lens at infinity (your lenses have internal focusing and may shift the nodal point in that.) I would use two thin sticks in the foreground where they are sharp enough. One nearer the camera than the other and in line. You want the nearest to completely mask the farthest one at any rotation angle of your camera. You'll see, when you are not with the camera+lens in the nodal point on the slide and rotate, that the two shift relative to each other. This is the foreground mismatch you get from not rotating in the nodal point which is almost impossible to stitch in LR (PS is incredible, but mismatches make it very slow). So, when you find the nodal point (takes me seconds rather than minutes when I have the accessories in place), note down the mm markings. Time lag remains a worry in all cases. In cityscapes you can use it to get rid of cars and people in your frame and have the option to leave only those in that make your shot stronger. Your 20/1.8S has a diagonal angle of 94 degrees and the 50/1.8S of 47 degrees: you need 2x2 shots with the 50 to get the same angle of view (3x3 with the nodal slide to get sufficient overlap. Then PS can stitch them in a "cylindrical" panorama and do all the stitching and dekeystoning, resulting in 4x 45.6 MP for your Z 7. There are at least a couple videos in here, Matt ;)
Good question Distomos, and I don't use them, it would just make things darker, and the only thing that might be different is a graduated ND I would have thought ... basically with the dynamic range of the Nikon's not needed, unless you want to have blurry fog .... hmm that is a good idea ... Cheers Matt
Matt Irwin Photography Yeah, I was thinking in that direction: blurry fog and (maybe) accentuated streaks of light cutting through along the edges of the building. Worth a try I would think.
Fog and heavy tropical rain create unbelievable opportunities. Thanks for sharing the excitement. BTW, when I got my Z6 recently, I sold my F-mount 24-120mm f/4 lens but decided to keep my F-mount 20mm f/1.8 ED G which is an excellent lens. Wondering how much better the new Z-mount 20mm 1.8 S is, given that my Z-mount 50mm 1.8 is the best 50mm I have ever owned (all f/1.8). Just hoping some day the pandemic would be over and I can go out and shoot.
Yeah from what I can see Rag, the 20mm 1.8 Z is a great lens similar in quality to the 50mm 1.8 Z. But I don't know how it compares to the old F version I am sorry. What country are you in, and when do you think you might be able to head out again? Cheers Matt
I am in Kolkata, India. The spread of the infection has not slowed down yet. The Government has eased conditions of the lockdown to kickstart the economy, if that is possible. So in principle I can venture out dressed in a mask and all. But it may not be safe for a 60+ year old person like me. Can only wait and hope for light at the end of the tunnel.
Yeah Jack for sure, I own and use the 24mm PC as well as the 85mm, both I love. When the 19 came out a few years ago, I just could not justify the $4000 it was at the time and only 5mm more than I currently have. Time for me to do a video on the tilt shifts I think : ) What body are you shooting with Jack? Cheers Matt
This video is charming. It tells so much about something I've learned from studying great painters of many currents. They talked about capturing the moment before action. Therein lie the masterpieces. It wasn't painting for painting's sake, it's not shooting and shooting. It is waiting for that moment. Compose, we all do, capture that instance and be in the right place, with the perfect angle ... Very few. Fantastic Matt! Oh! And those masters of painting controlled the light in the shade very well, you also talk about it in this video. Thinking seriously about that 20mm instead of the 14-30. Greetings from Uruguay
Thanks Maxi for those very kind words :). I often like to blur the line in my photography between photograph and painting... and fog helps by making the world soft. : ) As for the lens, so difficult to choose. Do you have any previous F glass? Hello to Uruguay. Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography The only f mount glass that I keep is the Sigma Sports 70-200 2.8. Some vintage: Hellios 58mm, Pentax 50 1.4, Tamron 28mm 2.8 BAR, and had a Nikkor Q 135mm 2.8. So, I use the Z35mm for almost everything around here. And no doubts that the Z20mm will be my next glass. I think it could be a nice street kit with the Z50. Salute and take care!
Fabulous mood and light. Which would be your choice if you only could take one wide: 20 or 14-30???
Very difficult Sorin ... I have not used the 14-30, but I do own the 14-24 2.8 F mount, I feel the quality is better on the 20mm Z. And in a way I like the fixed focal length. When confronted with this sort of weather you have to move very fast. The extra possibilities of 14-24 ... I think I would choose the 20mm - might change my mind when I actually get to use the 14-30. :) Cheers Matt
You said it: spectacular! What luck. Last mono, portrait orientation so moody. Fabulous. 👍
Thank you Muvee. It was a great morning : )
Growing up near the San Francisco Bay area gives me a serious appreciation for the fog
Yes it is beautiful in SF. I have visited 3 times in my life. Looking forward to the next time. Thanks Tom. What camera are you creating with in 2020? Cheers Matt
I met Karl this time last year. What a fine fog. Got some nice cliche pictures of the bridge cables at the time. Thanks for reminding me Tom.
I loved the B&Ws. Fantastic!
Glad you enjoyed it Leandro, thanks so much, where do you most like to photograph? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography I like to photograph Rock an Heavy Metal concerts the most. Quite challenging the setting, no control over the lighting and the people involved. I also like photographing women.
The monochrome look works exceptionally well with the fog and buildings. Liked much more than the colour. Cant wait for a foggy morning in Brissy now so I can try my hand at it and see if I have the same level of enthusiasm.
Awesome John, how often do you get fog in Brissy? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography quite few times during our so called winter . There was a bit this morning and of course I had a migraine and missed it.
@@JohnMHazlewood ah bad luck, next time :)
Stunning images, we get fog even less frequently here in Perth. Thanks for sharing your creative walk around and processing. The Nikkor Z 20mm S is definitely on my wishlist due to it's fit for so many of my photography loves - landscape, astrophotography, architecture, street and no doubt more yet to be discovered.
My pleasure! Sounds like the perfect lens for you Greg. What body will you be using it on? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography I've got a Z6, and love it, but currently all adapted glass - which works well but I think Z glass will be next level.
@@gregr5303 Yeah the adapting works super well, the Z lenses do feel next level. The 50mm just blows my mind for what you get for the price ... :)
Awesome video! I love the one you took of the railyards in monochrome... just as you finished, and then it presents itself. Lovely. Thanks
Awesome shots
🤙Thanks so much. Cheers Matt
Ooooh! My turn to share a teaching moment (from a Capture One video a week ago on the new version). Ditch Spot and use the Healing Mask (looks like a band-aid next to the rubber stamp icon in the Layers section. Much more powerful than Spot removal.
I really really miss the fog we got off of Lake Superior. :( Hardly ever get it in Phoenix - really special when it happens.
Thanks for the share in Capture One. Yeah fog 🌫 is the best.
That was a great morning .. I was driving on the Westgate Freeway that morning and noticed the amazing fog and light blanket the buildings and light streaming through like a baroque painting. Unfortunately I had a photo shot to go to otherwise, I would have got my 20mm 1.8 and z6 and taken a few shots too! Enjoy your Videos Matt - thanks!
Yeah Vince, it was awesome. Great you are working, what sort of photography do you do? Cheers Matt
Great Images Matt, from a wonderfull town. The 20/1.8 is for shure a very good Lens, but i prefer the 14-30/f 4.0.
The 35/50/85 1.8 work with my Z-Kameras. Because i am still using my DSLR‘s the 70-200 find it‘s way with the Adapter on the Z-Mount.
Thanks so much Juergen, yes I must get my hands on the 14-30 sometimes soon. Always so many things to purchase when a new system comes out ... Cheers Matt :)
Super video Matt and wow
what fabulous conditions to shoot in. My wife and I love the 20mm, after a long 3 month wait my wife finally had her one delivered this week and say she’s pleased is a bit of an understatement. What a fabulous lens and we both can’t wait to use it properly 😀👍
Thanks Garry, yeah it is a great lens for these sorts of subject, performed perfectly. Say hi to your wife for me. : ) Cheers Matt
Let's focus on a photographer who can look at the weather and light and knows where to go to get great shots. Who has an awareness of when to leave home in order to still get the light and the shots. Or else all the dummies start talking about how good sensors are.
Indeed reading the play, is such a big part of photography : ) Cheers Matt
Hi Matt, great to see you really enjoying the moment, I could feel the emotion.
If I looked out the window and it was foggy I would dive back under the duvet! Not next time, thanks for the inspiration.
That is awesome Steve, I am glad I have inspired. Where are you in the world? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography In the U.K. on the South Coast.
@@stevewestonphotography I think there would be some amazing fog there, are you near Brighton, I just love that area to photograph, I must come back one day :)
Amazing skyline. Really hope I can visit Melbourne one day.
You should we would love to see you here. Cheers Matt : )
"You want to be on manual", Matt says in the video. That's what I've always done. But. Now with the Z 7, I have "expose for the highlights". White-balance and ISO are always on a fixed setting, for me. That is important with the Z now, as it applies two gain levels to the sensor, depending on your ISO choice. Stay under 160 ISO or above 640. Choose 400 for lots of grain (this is where the low gain level bumps into dynamic range issues). This is not an exclusive Nikon Z thing and you'll have to figure out if your Sony or other camera has a similar architecture and where the gain level switch is relative to ISO. White balance is a non-issue for raw shooters and where Matt is, like here in NW Europe, I would be on "Cloudy" 90% of the time, including flash.
"I underexpose to maintain color", Matt says in the video.
Expose for the highlights in these city- and land-scapes gives excellent exposures. Set aperture of choice (1.8 here) and I would set ISO as low as possible (in the normal setting range).
No need to underexpose whatsoever. And, if you open in PS as 32-bit, you get access to gradation resolution in the highlights (and lowlights) that you did not think was there.
Thanks for sharing JP I will give all that a go, sounds interesting. Cheers Matt
Don't envy the weather in Melbourne, but boy this was dramatic! Love the dedication. And the graffiti is definitely better than in Sydney.
Thanks Bernard, yeah I have been chasing the fog since 1989 when I captured my first hit pic ... Cheers Matt
Cheers Matt thanks for some run and gun, and some composition thoughts too. Glad you found some fog. The 20mm does a nice job, but I think the operator is having quite an influence on the outcome.
When they're available, definitely gonna get me one o them 20s.
just...wow.
Thanks Gavin, it was a stunning morning. Cheers Matt
When does your spine tingle with excitement during photography?
@Matt Irwin Photography - Well, there was a lovely Asian model I shot who wanted boudoir images... But it did not tingle my SPINE.
often, holding a camera gives my a completely different perspective to life
When I see how changing light situations in the same scene creates new moods.
Exactly, dramatic things can happen with weather ... :)
Yeah Blythe, we can certainly stop and admire and analyse in a different way ... it is lovely. : )
Today I was watching a golf tournament in San Francisco. Cyprus trees on the golf course. Blimp shots that merge the fog with the trees and then the foggy skyline behind it.
I was typing before you said 'mono' just before 19.00 mins. Great minds think alike!
Boom! sure do :)
I wanna get the Nikon Z6. It’s on sale right now for $1600.00 dollars. Great video and photos too !
JT great price. I would jump in. Cheers Matt.
don't forget to add 50mm 1.8s to the kit... its a beast, hands down one of the best lenses out there in the market right now
@@Avinash-wg7xl Agree.
Very nice.
Thanks Sir. 🚀
Nice phone chat !!!
Great images.
Glad you like them Michael, what subjects do you like to capture? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography Hey Matt, i'm a landscape photographer based in Bavaria, Germany.
@@michaelbottari6398 I would love to see some of your pics, do you have a link?
Strong hand waving dancing mate!
Glad you like it. Did it pop on LinkedIn for you?
Hi Mat - love your enthusiasm (and the fact you are an Aussie, me too) - I love foggy days too - do exactly the same. Also you use Capture One - I really like its approach to editing.
I need a friend like you to go out walking the city like this. Great video, now I want that prime. But I have the 70 - 200 2.8 pre ordered. Now if it would come out
Where are you in the world Thomas, maybe we can go for a walk one day? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography The little State of RI USA. That would be awesome. Maybe one day. if you are up for it though, i see you using Capture One. I have been using Adobe light room Classic. What are your thoughts on Capture one compared. i already see some cool features. anyway. Great photo's. those were definitely some beautiful morning Sun breaks.... keep up the awesome job... Be safe.. keep shooting.
@@tbeau29 Thanks Thomas, Capture One is an all in one place workflow. Which I prefer as I came from using Apple's Aperture. They are similar. And you can buy Capture One outright, so no ongoing costs, unless you buy a new camera ... Cheers Matt
Love your stuff, only got the funds for one and I am torn between the 20 1.8s and the 14-30 . I know they are really different but I really think they both are great.
Wow Steve that is tough ... do you like zooms? Or are you more a prime guy? Cheers Matt
Hello Steve, I have a Z6 and a 14-30. You can see here a direct comparison between Z20 and Z14-30 : ruclips.net/video/Okshe7mcfSM/видео.html. Hope it help you.
Good ideas.
Thanks Paul, what do you most like to shoot? Cheers Matt
looks like you need to clean your sensor because of those spots Matt,I'm sure you realize that,I have cleaned my slr sensor before but I am wondering if doing that on a camera with ibis is risky because that likely makes it more delicate?I have not done that yet,I try not to change lenses too often or in a dusty or windy environments
Hi Derrick, in this case I actually think it is the lens, once i stop down a little the internal dust stars to appear, and the dust does not appear on all images taken with this camera, and I did not remove the lens once I started shooting. Cheers Matt : )
Great video! I want to buy the Z6 but there is no "affordable" and lightweight tele zoom available :(
Any recommendations for a F-mount tele zoom lens (F4 would be enough) I could adapt? Need it also for hiking ...
(I thought about buying a 50-250 Z DX or a Tamron 70-210 F-mount)
Thanks Patrick, Well I think the best bet right now for price and weight for hiking is the 50-250 Z DX. Have you seen the video I made about it a few weeks ago, I think it is great for what it offers, and perfect for hiking ... Cheers Ma
@@MattIrwinPhotography thanks! yes, I saw the video. Only disadvantage is that I only get 10 MP with the Z6. But since I only need the tele zoom occasionally it should be okay ...
@@patrick.771 Yeah good point ... depends on your final usage. I would consider it a stop gap purchase until the Z 70-200 F4 arrives in a few years .... :)
@@MattIrwinPhotography "few years" :(
@@patrick.771 i'm guessing :)
I have the 20mm f1.8 f mount which is great but I’m holding off on the 20mm z mount to se what the faster lenses will be like
Fair enough Ronald, are you hoping for a 1.2? Cheers Matt
Matt Irwin Photography, I know the faster lenses are usually twice the price and weight and often marginally inferior in some aspects but there is so much new stuff coming out theses days it’s difficult to keep up with the latest and greatest
It’s so easy to become inflicted with gear acquisition syndrome, it’s good to sometimes not jump into the first things offered often followed by the better one soon after
Kindest regards
@@ronaldsand3000 Good call, as my dad used to say 'keep your powder dry'.
16:20 matt; i'm startled with the latitude of exposures we can mess around in modern camera sensors.
Yep Manesh, the dynamic range on these cameras is amazing. what are you shooting on at the moment? Cheers Matt
Matt, thinking of converting a few to mono, I reckon fog and street lends itself to black and white?
For sure!!
Canberra is foggy pretty much everyday. Good stuff a few days lately it’s been foggy most of the day.
All day fog here is more like a once every 2-4 years, very rare ... are you capturing some fun pics? Cheers Matt
Matt Irwin Photography Yeah I have been, obviously we don’t have any tall buildings here so it’s more minimalist solo tree in the lake stuff. If only I didn’t have to work for a living I’d get out a lot more.
@@tallaganda83 For sure. There has been occasions when the fog was spectacular and I had to go capture for a client ... very frustrating :)
Matt I’m a long time Nikon shooter I have been using some Fuji and love the evf thinking of selling my D850 to pay for a z6 can you share ur thought Re this specifically how will my old glass cope
I short a wide range of styles
Hmmm Michael, well I think you will love the Z6, the only downside from the D850 I can see is a drop in resolution from 45 - 24 MP, if that does not bother you then I would move to the Z6 I love all 3 of my Z cameras. As for the glass it works super well. No problems and you get IBIS on the Z6 which you don't have on the D850. And are you ok with one card slot ? Cheers Matt
Hi thanks for reply can live with one card I’m old enough to remember film i can handle the 24mp don’t print super big it’s the evf info and ibis with reduced size that I want on the ff sensor
@@michaelnikonfuji3539 Awesome Micheal, then you will love the Z6. The Z6 and Z7 are so rewarding and fun to use. :)
Those train tracks would be nice too.
What would you like to see on the train tracks? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography Well, it looked like there was some good reflection off the tracks. Low angle high contrast photos, maybe some wetness and/or dew.
@@Paul-D-Hoff Ah good idea, yeah in this case impossible to get down there, but I love that idea. :)
I love fog but I'm scared of humidity getting in the lens and getting fungus and/or fogging up :( do you have any tips on dealing with that?
Love the shots, anything with god rays looks amazing!
Nippius Don’t change lenses
Yeah the GOD rays, love them too. Don't be afraid, we have this gear to use it and make great things. I have never had fungus in a lens ever. And that is with 31 years of shooting the fog. Where are you in the world? Cheers Matt
I think it will be fine, unless it is sea spray and not fog ... :)
Would love to see some time lapse city scape shots at night with the 20.
Keystoning (actually keystone correction). With all the gear you have, Matt, you ought to give a try to a nodal slide and panorama stitching. In this case, using the 20mm vertically could have allowed you to maintain the sensor in the vertical plane, parallel to the building facades. Three or four shots horizontally and you have more detail. If LR cannot easily stitch them, then PS has sublime stitching powers. Wow. Yes, you need a tripod for that. Sorry. You may find less color noise (that might actually be motion blur in the deepest levels of the dynamic range). And what you loose in the crop is determined by you, not the keystoning.
If you have no close foreground, you can do this handheld with the Z and PS, but using a nodal slide makes it a lot easier, computationally.
In the case of these buildings, I would have tested my 3D nodal slide to see how well the setup does when I shoot a multi-row panorama with the, say, 50/1.8S
Another great set of ideas JP, I wonder if I am too impatient for multi-shot panoramas, what I find with the fog, is it is so fast moving, that I would only get one shot. Instead of 10 ... how quickly can you shoot a pano, is the slide cumbersome / heavy? Cheers Matt
@@MattIrwinPhotography - ;) you completely match my prejudice based of having sensed a bit of impatience. There is that, even for patient people. Motion of water and sky can be very fast and give even PS a hard time, but it is a matter of finding your, gear, and weather's limitations.
As to gear, I have this 3D nodal thing that has adjustment discs with clicks. You set the angle of the lens and after each shot rotate to the next click. This requires a bit of fine motor skills. And then it goes really fast. There are a few electronic 3D heads, but in my prejudice, they are slower.
With some brands you can buy the parts but if you want to end up with a 3D (i.e. multi-row) "head" I would advise to buy a set (for a lot of money) in one go as it saves. I was looking for Novoflex as they are the best IMO, but bought Sunwayfoto for less money.
If you don't have a tripod yet, I would advise something like a Gitzo System 3 without column, where the legs meet, there is a removable plate and you can put a "75mm half ball" into that. This gives a very fast and extremely sturdy leveling base on which to mount (which you don't need in the 3D set anymore). I think Gitzo's half ball is very expensive and for still I would buy a cheaper one of their sister company Manfrotto. For a horizontal pano, what do you need, if you already had this? The panorama disc with clicks (I call that a disc as it rotates in one plane). If that disc has Ara mount, you need a nodal slide (rail) to mount on the disc. That slide can slide in the disc's Arca mount. You should then be able to mount your camera on the Arca quick mount on the nodal slide/rail, which is either integrated on that, or a separate sliding "carriage" on that. As these slides/rails have mm position indication, you now have to find the nodal point of your lens. For ...scapes it is best to do this with the lens at infinity (your lenses have internal focusing and may shift the nodal point in that.) I would use two thin sticks in the foreground where they are sharp enough. One nearer the camera than the other and in line. You want the nearest to completely mask the farthest one at any rotation angle of your camera. You'll see, when you are not with the camera+lens in the nodal point on the slide and rotate, that the two shift relative to each other. This is the foreground mismatch you get from not rotating in the nodal point which is almost impossible to stitch in LR (PS is incredible, but mismatches make it very slow). So, when you find the nodal point (takes me seconds rather than minutes when I have the accessories in place), note down the mm markings.
Time lag remains a worry in all cases. In cityscapes you can use it to get rid of cars and people in your frame and have the option to leave only those in that make your shot stronger.
Your 20/1.8S has a diagonal angle of 94 degrees and the 50/1.8S of 47 degrees: you need 2x2 shots with the 50 to get the same angle of view (3x3 with the nodal slide to get sufficient overlap. Then PS can stitch them in a "cylindrical" panorama and do all the stitching and dekeystoning, resulting in 4x 45.6 MP for your Z 7.
There are at least a couple videos in here, Matt ;)
I was wondering what impact using a ND-Filter would have on these foggy skyline shots.
Good question Distomos, and I don't use them, it would just make things darker, and the only thing that might be different is a graduated ND I would have thought ... basically with the dynamic range of the Nikon's not needed, unless you want to have blurry fog .... hmm that is a good idea ... Cheers Matt
Matt Irwin Photography Yeah, I was thinking in that direction: blurry fog and (maybe) accentuated streaks of light cutting through along the edges of the building. Worth a try I would think.
@@distomos8118 Great Idea, I will start to think about it :) CHeers
Fog and heavy tropical rain create unbelievable opportunities. Thanks for sharing the excitement. BTW, when I got my Z6 recently, I sold my F-mount 24-120mm f/4 lens but decided to keep my F-mount 20mm f/1.8 ED G which is an excellent lens. Wondering how much better the new Z-mount 20mm 1.8 S is, given that my Z-mount 50mm 1.8 is the best 50mm I have ever owned (all f/1.8). Just hoping some day the pandemic would be over and I can go out and shoot.
Yeah from what I can see Rag, the 20mm 1.8 Z is a great lens similar in quality to the 50mm 1.8 Z. But I don't know how it compares to the old F version I am sorry. What country are you in, and when do you think you might be able to head out again? Cheers Matt
I am in Kolkata, India. The spread of the infection has not slowed down yet. The Government has eased conditions of the lockdown to kickstart the economy, if that is possible. So in principle I can venture out dressed in a mask and all. But it may not be safe for a 60+ year old person like me. Can only wait and hope for light at the end of the tunnel.
@@asitde Ah that sounds terrible. Best of luck Rag. Hope it peaks soon. Stay in touch. Cheers Matt
😱
Such powerful light and particles. I love it.
You really owe it to yourself to try the Nikon PC Nikkor 19mm ED Tilt-Shift lens.
Yeah Jack for sure, I own and use the 24mm PC as well as the 85mm, both I love. When the 19 came out a few years ago, I just could not justify the $4000 it was at the time and only 5mm more than I currently have. Time for me to do a video on the tilt shifts I think : ) What body are you shooting with Jack? Cheers Matt
Also, it sounds different.
What sounds different Paul? :)
Oh in the fog, yes I agree ... sound does not bounce around the same way ... : )