Thank you for taking the time to make this video, it was very helpful in making my first top cover for one I had damaged in a storm. I did have trouble finding the aluminum sheet at my local Lowes or Home depot, I had to find a real hardware store to purchase this, in doing so I made sure to purchase everything from the hardware store to ensure they might compete with the larger box store. I live close to a somewhat larger city and we have lost almost all of our hardware stores to the big box chains, they both have their place, but I sure to miss what I call the real hardware stores. Thank you again for the knowledge you shared.
I watched all your videos today (11/02/16), from the hive stand to building a telescoping top cover, including frames ,bodies etc; you are so awesome, your videos are amazing in details, by the Spring I will have 3 or 4 complete hives, so I can start with the bee keeping thing thanks to you ,thank you so much for your work, time and videos!!! PS , can't wait for the Spring of 2017.
Thanks for uploading! I've been following your beehive building series for awhile and all I have left is putting the metal top on this hive cover, and getting the screen on my bottom board and then I'll have finished building my own beehive. Thanks so much for your videos, they've been very helpful!
I am presently building hives for local beekeepers. This is my "go to" site for all my builds. I have almost every measurement memorised! I use finger joints and tried the spline thing ,, it didn't work. but neither did the finger joints on the cheap saw. I now have a 60 year old commercial tablesaw,,, accurate to 3 thou. Awesome ,, I make frames that don't need glue or nails!! Thanks beekeeperworkshop!!
Well done! I came at this backwards on my internet search... have to go find the beginning of the project. Again, many thanks for this great contribution! :)
Great video. Exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering about the corners and I would have made a mistake and cut them. Showing how to pleat was very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Great presentation! Sometime in the future, would you please consider producing a video on how to construct a pollen trap? I don't want to come across as trying to tell you what to do, however, a pollen trap would be a terrific asset. Thank you for the wonderful job you are doing. Thanx, LP
I can't find any coil stock at Lowes or Home Depot. I know you not talking about aluminum flashing as that is to thin to bend without buckling because I tried. What guage is that aluminum stock? I'm thinking of making out of sheet metal and paint it.
Great videos, I have been following almost all. I am looking for a stapler and don't know what to get. So far I have a 18 gauge finishing nail gun which is cordless and the same company has a 18 gauge airstrike narrow crown stapler that puts in narrow staples (1/4 wide) up to 3/8 to 1 1/2 inches deep. Would you consider that a good tool for the project you have done?
I use an 18-gauge narrow 1/4 inch wide stapler and find it to be quite satisfactory. That is what I would go with again if I had it to do all over again.
This is a common thought among beekeepers. However, I have never heard a convincing reason as to why you should not paint the inside of a bee hive. I can think of several goods reasons as to why you should paint inside. It is your choice. Options would be to coat the inside of the hive with (melted) bees wax or a tincture of propolis. For me, I chose to paint. My equipment lasts a lot, lot longer having been painted on the inside and the bees don't seem to mind the paint job on bit. Use paint which is not lead-based, which is all current paints on the market.
How about a series on beekeeping. Acquiring a package and a nuc. Installing said package and nuc. What to look for in a hive. What's good, what's bad. Tips and tricks. Etc.
There are a lot of videos out there that cover the topics you suggest. A lot of them made by very competent beekeepers that are probably a lot more knowledgeable than me. There are also videos out there that sort of suck. Probably the best source of the information you seek would be a local beekeeping club. If you don't have a local club, consider starting one. You will be amazed at the number of very competent beekeepers that will come together.
22 inches is the correct length of the sides of the telescoping top cover. With a rebate joint (as shown in the video and in the plans), the length of the top cover will be 22 inches. This assumes you cut the rabbet on the side rails and not the ends. Otherwise, the overall length will be 22-3/4 inches, as you point out. So make sure the rabbets are on the sides and not the ends.
A sheet metal folding tool works really well for the aluminum. No need to measure the 1" hem, and you can fold 12" at a time. Search "12" Sheet Metal Folding Tool" on Menards.com Thanks for sharing.
Hi Michelle, To answer your question... no reason at all why you could not use a full width board for the telescoping cover sides. It may be a bit over generous, but the bees won't care one way or the other.
beekeepersworkshop thank you. I ended up cutting a 3/4 inch piece off the 1x4 to use for inner cover and using the remaining wood for the telescoping cover.
This sheet metal cost a lot of money now day! Paint on the roofs don't hold up! If you do use metal, a must to put tar paper under it. This will keep moisture from the metal dripping on the plywood
Хобби
8 years later and still being helpful to many of us without lots of specialized tools. Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, it was very helpful in making my first top cover for one I had damaged in a storm. I did have trouble finding the aluminum sheet at my local Lowes or Home depot, I had to find a real hardware store to purchase this, in doing so I made sure to purchase everything from the hardware store to ensure they might compete with the larger box store. I live close to a somewhat larger city and we have lost almost all of our hardware stores to the big box chains, they both have their place, but I sure to miss what I call the real hardware stores. Thank you again for the knowledge you shared.
I like the way you did the aluminum corners.
I watched all your videos today (11/02/16), from the hive stand to building a telescoping top cover, including frames ,bodies etc; you are so awesome, your videos are amazing in details, by the Spring I will have 3 or 4 complete hives, so I can start with the bee keeping thing thanks to you ,thank you so much for your work, time and videos!!! PS , can't wait for the Spring of 2017.
Thanks for uploading! I've been following your beehive building series for awhile and all I have left is putting the metal top on this hive cover, and getting the screen on my bottom board and then I'll have finished building my own beehive. Thanks so much for your videos, they've been very helpful!
Thats great.
I am presently building hives for local beekeepers. This is my "go to" site for all my builds. I have almost every measurement memorised! I use finger joints and tried the spline thing ,, it didn't work. but neither did the finger joints on the cheap saw. I now have a 60 year old commercial tablesaw,,, accurate to 3 thou. Awesome ,, I make frames that don't need glue or nails!! Thanks beekeeperworkshop!!
Just completed a full hive with your plans. Bees seem to be loving it.
Beautifully done and gently explained. What a gift; thank you.
Im just starting bee keeping in South East Michigan. I love your videos. I just set up my first Nuc.
Thanks for taking the time to share. I like how u do your corners. I want from 2 hives to 24 in 2 years. Thank you
Well done! I came at this backwards on my internet search... have to go find the beginning of the project. Again, many thanks for this great contribution! :)
Thank you , Ir is easy to anderstand you !
Enjoy your videos a lot. They are very logical and easy to understand. How about an instructional video on building the tenon jig?
Great video. Exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering about the corners and I would have made a mistake and cut them. Showing how to pleat was very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent work.Thanks.
Great vids! Thanks for the attention to detail!
Very good work. Thanks
Very nice video. Thank you!
great teaching... greetings from germany
Great presentation! Sometime in the future, would you please consider producing a video on how to construct a pollen trap? I don't want to come across as trying to tell you what to do, however, a pollen trap would be a terrific asset.
Thank you for the wonderful job you are doing.
Thanx, LP
Thanks love your videos might have to give this Beehive Building With a lot of Help from you.
you are professional,super beekeepers worker, Thanks
Thanks for the lesson . I learned a lot God Bless
thank very much i learn alot from you god bless
I have added a piece of foam board over the plywood top and increased the metal top size to cover it. I want the extra insulation from heat and cold.
Good idea
Very formative
I can't find any coil stock at Lowes or Home Depot. I know you not talking about aluminum flashing as that is to thin to bend without buckling because I tried. What guage is that aluminum stock? I'm thinking of making out of sheet metal and paint it.
Excellent
My brother i love tour videos.
I enjoyed your video. Is there a reason why you prefer latex paint over oil or white shellac for exterior application? Thanks!
Just found your question. Latex is what is most readily available. It holds up quite well. Any paint will work for the outside.
Any reason to NOT use oil base paint as that would last longer than the latex?
Great videos, I have been following almost all. I am looking for a stapler and don't know what to get. So far I have a 18 gauge finishing nail gun which is cordless and the same company has a 18 gauge airstrike narrow crown stapler that puts in narrow staples (1/4 wide) up to 3/8 to 1 1/2 inches deep. Would you consider that a good tool for the project you have done?
I use an 18-gauge narrow 1/4 inch wide stapler and find it to be quite satisfactory. That is what I would go with again if I had it to do all over again.
Thanks
Thank you for your videos. I hear that you should not paint the inside as it maybe toxic, is that a concern?
This is a common thought among beekeepers. However, I have never heard a convincing reason as to why you should not paint the inside of a bee hive. I can think of several goods reasons as to why you should paint inside. It is your choice. Options would be to coat the inside of the hive with (melted) bees wax or a tincture of propolis. For me, I chose to paint. My equipment lasts a lot, lot longer having been painted on the inside and the bees don't seem to mind the paint job on bit. Use paint which is not lead-based, which is all current paints on the market.
How about a series on beekeeping. Acquiring a package and a nuc. Installing said package and nuc. What to look for in a hive. What's good, what's bad. Tips and tricks. Etc.
There are a lot of videos out there that cover the topics you suggest. A lot of them made by very competent beekeepers that are probably a lot more knowledgeable than me. There are also videos out there that sort of suck. Probably the best source of the information you seek would be a local beekeeping club. If you don't have a local club, consider starting one. You will be amazed at the number of very competent beekeepers that will come together.
Where do bees get pollen during the winter season ?
Where do we find the link to download the plans for this thank you very much I love your videos
can be found at... www.michiganbees.org/beekeeping/in-the-beekeepers-workshop/
if you cut the long sides 22", the overall assembled length will be 22-3/4"
22 inches is the correct length of the sides of the telescoping top cover. With a rebate joint (as shown in the video and in the plans), the length of the top cover will be 22 inches. This assumes you cut the rabbet on the side rails and not the ends. Otherwise, the overall length will be 22-3/4 inches, as you point out. So make sure the rabbets are on the sides and not the ends.
A sheet metal folding tool works really well for the aluminum. No need to measure the 1" hem, and you can fold 12" at a time.
Search "12" Sheet Metal Folding Tool" on Menards.com
Thanks for sharing.
Since you want to minimise end exposure, why not use a mitered joint? You cpould even use a spliced mitered joint.
Is there a reason the full 3 1/2 inches from the 1×4 cant be used?
Hi Michelle,
To answer your question... no reason at all why you could not use a full width board for the telescoping cover sides. It may be a bit over generous, but the bees won't care one way or the other.
beekeepersworkshop thank you. I ended up cutting a 3/4 inch piece off the 1x4 to use for inner cover and using the remaining wood for the telescoping cover.
This sheet metal cost a lot of money now day! Paint on the roofs don't hold up! If you do use metal, a must to put tar paper under it. This will keep moisture from the metal dripping on the plywood
Not a bad idea.
@@beekeepersworkshop Thanks i like your channel
I prefer to build with stodoys plans.
IT'S CALLED A RABBIT JOINT.
Actually, it is spelled "rabbet". Sometimes also called a rebate joint.
@@beekeepersworkshop NOT HERE IN CORRUPTICUT.