Thank you. I've been waiting for this comment and should have addressed it in the video. I used to do that but with the amount of glue we now use it doesn't seem necessary. We have very little trouble. I would definitely do it if we weren't using good glue.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thanks, Bob! I don’t necessarily think it’s required for honey super frames. But, personally, I do it on deep frames for brood boxes. Having a frame fall apart on me is not something that I want to experience again.
Lol there’s always someone who knows how to do it better than the guy who’s been doing it 40years and runs a million pound business 🤣 Bob you’re the man 👍 English beekeeper, pretty much learnt everything from your videos when I started up 2 years ago, cheers mate.
@@chrisallen8631 That’s a pretty rude comment, Chris. 👎🏻👎🏻 Never did I say that I “know how to do it better” than Bob. Not at all. I posted a comment, Bob *pinned my comment*, and I merely said that I feel better having extra peace of mind from stapling the side bars to the top bar. That’s all. Have a lovely day.
Same stuff happening here these days. As you mention, so many different ways. I do use the more rigid Ritecell. We install the bottom bars first then install the foundation as we install the top bar. A little less difficult, especially on mediums. I've found that for me, the time is the same even though it seems to take longer, the jig produces a finished frame. I also have a different method of glue application that I feel is way faster but it might not work for everyone. I can't explain it, it's shown in my videos though. Thanks again, Bob!
I’m the same way about my glue! I was a plumber in another lifetime and the apprenticeship taught us “glue is cheap, compared to leaks!” But wood glue needs to be heavy handed! Another great video Bob!
Great video Need to build me a jig I have been swapping out plastic foundation with wood. Also going to start making my own frames I'm in need of about 50 super frames and 40 brood frame. Great to see Seth moving on up-- I wish you and him well.
❤ it’s a toss up but the cost is close but 🤷🏻♂️ winter time it’s snowing outside an COLD an the woodshop is heated an with coffee pot an TV an a recliner, just in case, the old man needs a power nap😂😂😂😂
Phil the bee man has pretty cool frame nailer shoots all the staples needed by a foot pedal at the same time.. he gets his grandkids on it pumps them out in 10k batches
Prior to putting the side bars into the jig hold an aligned stack of 10 in your hand and add glue to all of them at once. I use a disposable 1/4 brush to spread the glue evenly. Then add them to the jig. There will be less glue running down the sides of the bars as well. I actually add glue to the bottoms of the bars also while holding them but you have to work fast to get them assembled before the glue starts to dry up.
That's a great tip! Wish I had thought of that. I make sure that there is glue on what will be the vertical surfaces of the joints since these are what provide the most shear strength when manipulating the frames during inspections. Like in this video I often see people just putting glue on what will be the horizontal part of the finished joint which provides the least strength of the joint since this is subjected to tensioned strength.
@@fredshoney6458 - absolutely correct. The little brush can spread the glue to the verticals so all three surfaces have a good amount of glue. I also collect aligned top bars and apply glue just to the side notches prior to installing them so both vertical surfaces get glue. I’m certain Bob would approve of the amount of glue that squeezes out when I push the bar into the frame end pieces, 😂.
I like the idea of the wedges to keep the side bars tight in the jig. But if I was doing the glue that precisely I'd go nuts making hundreds of frames. I just run a single bead of glue down the whole side. It's messy but I wipe the frame and save the time.
I think I'm convinced that I need to glue my frames and skip the staple under the end bars. Over the years I haven't had lots of frames come apart but it can happen at bad times.
Hi bob, as always super informative. Are you going to Chile to the Apimondia trade show? we will be going as a group from Costa Rica. Would be great to be able to say hello. big fan of all your videos . super appreciate all the info you share.
We get pre-waxed. On occasion we will add wax to frames that were in a colony for a while but didn't get drawn out because the bees will strip the wax off.
I'm curious, Bob. With how many frames you make yourselves, roughly how many old frames do you retire in a year and how do you decide that they're no longer worth using?
We rarely throw frames away because we sell so many nucs and colonies that our frames are continuously being cycled out and replaced. But if one was to slip through I would throw it away once it begins to feel heavier than normal and begins to look very dark. This would normally take around ten to twelve years.
Suggestion, put glue on top bars not side bars, by laying next to each other so groves form long channel. lay a long bead in grove and spread with acid flux brush. End grain to side grain provides no strength.
I was thinking the same thing; face grain to face grain makes the strongest glued joint. I also drive my staple in through the side bar, and add the plastic foundation during the assembly process not after. Thanks as always for sharing the knowledge Bob!
I noticed none of the staples are shot in horizontally. I assume you do this in the most efficient way that works and you have tried several ways of assembly and length of staples too. Do you have many issues with frames coming apart in the beeyard with no staples shot in horizontally? Thank you.
Bob, which amount of wax coating do you recommend for the Premier foundation, if the beekeeper rolls on another fresh coat before putting them in the hive?
Plastic frames are nice because you can be rough with them. Throw them in the truck and such. But the also have grooves where SHB like to run and hide where the bees can't get them. I like using the plastic foundation with wood frames for the honey supers. Best of both worlds and no blowout in my extractor.
@@gary5172 that's true. I still prefer wood frames with plastic foundation. I've also settled on wax-wire foundation for the brood nest. It seems more natural and I don't have to worry about blowouts on those frames anyway since I don't extract them. With new hives I really want them to draw out the brood nest comb quickly before winter (Michigan) and we usually have just barely enough time for that. If it is a bumper year and they can draw out a honey super, great but usually honey supers get drawn out the following year.
@@reedjasonf interesting. We have new plastic frames now to limit SHB. but it was an issue here previously. I'm with you around wood frames and plastic foundation - its the sweet spot for me.
Thanks. I am OK with using a few plastic frames but I don't like large numbers of them in my boxes. Things I like about them is that they are less expensive, they're immediately ready to use and they are tougher when prying things apart (end bars don't split). Things I don't like is that if one is above another (upper and lower box) more burr comb will occur between them than wooden frames, there are lots of places for hive beetles to hang out and if a top bar ear breaks off they are not easily repaired. All that having been said I definitely prefer wooden frames with plastic foundation but will probably be using a few plastic frames this year.
I just looked at the video to see what you were referring to. It looks like a combination of poor camera technique (my fault) and something gone wrong with the RUclips side if things. Possibly something happened with the upload (RUclips's fault). Sorry about that. 😇
@@bobbinnie9872 all good Bob, my comment was meant as corrective feed back, i love the message and appreciate the effort to put these videos out. Keep it up my. Mal from Sydney Australia 😁
I can't get them anymore. They were sold by The Walter T Kelly Co. (Kelly Bees) before Mann Lake bought them out. They're 100% cotton. I guess I'll have to find another brand when the ones I have now wear out.
I ordered a lot of frames and beehives stuff from main lakes. I'll never buy from main lake again while do. My stuff came in moldy and they're trying to tell me that it was a stain. I used which the mold was on there before. I even touched a stain. The mold was so deep. It took a long time to get the mold out with the bleach. There's nothing but light in me. So I boycott man lakes.
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I’m surprised that you don’t put a staple through each of the end bars to prevent the top bar from separating
Thank you. I've been waiting for this comment and should have addressed it in the video. I used to do that but with the amount of glue we now use it doesn't seem necessary. We have very little trouble. I would definitely do it if we weren't using good glue.
@@bobbinnie9872
Thanks, Bob!
I don’t necessarily think it’s required for honey super frames. But, personally, I do it on deep frames for brood boxes. Having a frame fall apart on me is not something that I want to experience again.
Lol there’s always someone who knows how to do it better than the guy who’s been doing it 40years and runs a million pound business 🤣 Bob you’re the man 👍 English beekeeper, pretty much learnt everything from your videos when I started up 2 years ago, cheers mate.
@@chrisallen8631
That’s a pretty rude comment, Chris. 👎🏻👎🏻
Never did I say that I “know how to do it better” than Bob. Not at all. I posted a comment, Bob *pinned my comment*, and I merely said that I feel better having extra peace of mind from stapling the side bars to the top bar. That’s all.
Have a lovely day.
@@RyanMcDonnough hi mate, sorry must have misinterpreted your meaning, can’t have people questioning the guru 😜
Am i the only person who yelled, “what part of this is supposed to be E-Z?!” While assembling? Thank you SO much for the video!
Same stuff happening here these days. As you mention, so many different ways. I do use the more rigid Ritecell. We install the bottom bars first then install the foundation as we install the top bar. A little less difficult, especially on mediums. I've found that for me, the time is the same even though it seems to take longer, the jig produces a finished frame. I also have a different method of glue application that I feel is way faster but it might not work for everyone. I can't explain it, it's shown in my videos though. Thanks again, Bob!
Don't lose Jesse, seems like he does all the jobs nobody else wants to do. Great employee from what I've seen in your videos.
The best!
I’m the same way about my glue! I was a plumber in another lifetime and the apprenticeship taught us “glue is cheap, compared to leaks!” But wood glue needs to be heavy handed! Another great video Bob!
Love the blue coiled air hose.
Thanks for the “rouge staple” tip. I always learn something new on you videos!
Great video Need to build me a jig I have been swapping out plastic foundation with wood.
Also going to start making my own frames I'm in need of about 50 super frames and 40 brood frame.
Great to see Seth moving on up-- I wish you and him well.
Thank you.
Great video; love the relationship between employer and employee exhibited. Looks like a great place to work
Thanks. We're lucky to have our current crew.
From northern utah here and I’ve done these and I think they work good!
❤ it’s a toss up but the cost is close but 🤷🏻♂️ winter time it’s snowing outside an COLD an the woodshop is heated an with coffee pot an TV an a recliner, just in case, the old man needs a power nap😂😂😂😂
You are lucky to have such great employees
Totally agree!
I bought some of these from ya last year and they all going in hives this year. Thanks again Bob and Jesse. Great video!
Thanks for the video. Frame building has been completed during the off season.
You have obviously hired all the best people, to bad for your competition.
We've been lucky to get the folks we have.
Big operations there ! Well done Bob
Phil the bee man has pretty cool frame nailer shoots all the staples needed by a foot pedal at the same time.. he gets his grandkids on it pumps them out in 10k batches
Prior to putting the side bars into the jig hold an aligned stack of 10 in your hand and add glue to all of them at once. I use a disposable 1/4 brush to spread the glue evenly. Then add them to the jig. There will be less glue running down the sides of the bars as well. I actually add glue to the bottoms of the bars also while holding them but you have to work fast to get them assembled before the glue starts to dry up.
That's a great tip! Wish I had thought of that.
I make sure that there is glue on what will be the vertical surfaces of the joints since these are what provide the most shear strength when manipulating the frames during inspections.
Like in this video I often see people just putting glue on what will be the horizontal part of the finished joint which provides the least strength of the joint since this is subjected to tensioned strength.
@@fredshoney6458 - absolutely correct. The little brush can spread the glue to the verticals so all three surfaces have a good amount of glue. I also collect aligned top bars and apply glue just to the side notches prior to installing them so both vertical surfaces get glue. I’m certain Bob would approve of the amount of glue that squeezes out when I push the bar into the frame end pieces, 😂.
He makes that look easy!😂
Thank Bob and thank you Jessie
I recently made a 20 frame jig, makes things go a lot faster.
Hi Bob, a video that shows how you repair frames in the field would be good.
I like the idea of the wedges to keep the side bars tight in the jig. But if I was doing the glue that precisely I'd go nuts making hundreds of frames. I just run a single bead of glue down the whole side. It's messy but I wipe the frame and save the time.
Good job ,sir
I’m the rogue staple king 😂
Good stuff!
Good Video Bob, What Jig are you Using and where did you get it, Or did you Build it? Good stuff Bob! Looks good!
We built it out of scrape plywood. Thanks.
Nice jig.
I wonder if it would be faster to place the foundation before putting on the frame bottoms?
Some people do that, and like it, but we like installing the foundation after the frame is built.
I think I'm convinced that I need to glue my frames and skip the staple under the end bars. Over the years I haven't had lots of frames come apart but it can happen at bad times.
Yep, thats the way I do it but my jig holds 10 and its a little different. I definitely like the consistency of Titebond II better for frames.
mantap
Hi bob, as always super informative. Are you going to Chile to the Apimondia trade show? we will be going as a group from Costa Rica. Would be great to be able to say hello. big fan of all your videos . super appreciate all the info you share.
I would love to go but will not be able to. Someday perhaps I'll make it one.
Great information, do you have the specs on the jig box? How to make one, I am in US and imperial system would be helpful. Thank you
The inside dimensions of the jigs we're currently using are 17-7/8 inches for the frame length (end bar to end bar) and 16-7/8 for box width.
@@bobbinnie9872 Thank you!
Always good tips Bob thank you, does your foundation come pre waxed or do you add that yourselves ?
We get pre-waxed. On occasion we will add wax to frames that were in a colony for a while but didn't get drawn out because the bees will strip the wax off.
👏👏👍🏻
👍🤗
СПАСИБО THANKS
I'm curious, Bob. With how many frames you make yourselves, roughly how many old frames do you retire in a year and how do you decide that they're no longer worth using?
We rarely throw frames away because we sell so many nucs and colonies that our frames are continuously being cycled out and replaced. But if one was to slip through I would throw it away once it begins to feel heavier than normal and begins to look very dark. This would normally take around ten to twelve years.
I also staple the foundation to the frame. Top and bottom
👍 Thank you
Hi Oscar. The crew is asking about you.
😀 see you in couple weeks
Suggestion, put glue on top bars not side bars, by laying next to each other so groves form long channel. lay a long bead in grove and spread with acid flux brush. End grain to side grain provides no strength.
I was thinking the same thing; face grain to face grain makes the strongest glued joint. I also drive my staple in through the side bar, and add the plastic foundation during the assembly process not after. Thanks as always for sharing the knowledge Bob!
I noticed none of the staples are shot in horizontally. I assume you do this in the most efficient way that works and you have tried several ways of assembly and length of staples too. Do you have many issues with frames coming apart in the beeyard with no staples shot in horizontally? Thank you.
With the amount of glue that we use there are very few issues.
Bob, which amount of wax coating do you recommend for the Premier foundation, if the beekeeper rolls on another fresh coat before putting them in the hive?
If I was applying wax I wouldn't pay extra for pre-waxed.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Does anyone make plastic drone foundation for inserting into wood frames?
There could be some but I'm not familiar with any.
@@bobbinnie9872 thanks Bob
There are Green plastic drone frames with comb .
The best part is to can open your hive and you easily know which frames are the drone comb
@@lenturtle7954 I'm more interested in just the foundation as I would be cutting it to fit Layens frames.
Bob - love your channel from Australia. Do you ever use plastic frames or aren't they viable in the US?
Plastic frames are nice because you can be rough with them. Throw them in the truck and such. But the also have grooves where SHB like to run and hide where the bees can't get them.
I like using the plastic foundation with wood frames for the honey supers. Best of both worlds and no blowout in my extractor.
@@reedjasonf If you have a small yard-20 or less-you could fill those grooves with wood glue or glue gun or whatever you can think of that might work.
@@gary5172 that's true. I still prefer wood frames with plastic foundation. I've also settled on wax-wire foundation for the brood nest. It seems more natural and I don't have to worry about blowouts on those frames anyway since I don't extract them. With new hives I really want them to draw out the brood nest comb quickly before winter (Michigan) and we usually have just barely enough time for that. If it is a bumper year and they can draw out a honey super, great but usually honey supers get drawn out the following year.
@@reedjasonf interesting. We have new plastic frames now to limit SHB. but it was an issue here previously. I'm with you around wood frames and plastic foundation - its the sweet spot for me.
Thanks. I am OK with using a few plastic frames but I don't like large numbers of them in my boxes. Things I like about them is that they are less expensive, they're immediately ready to use and they are tougher when prying things apart (end bars don't split). Things I don't like is that if one is above another (upper and lower box) more burr comb will occur between them than wooden frames, there are lots of places for hive beetles to hang out and if a top bar ear breaks off they are not easily repaired. All that having been said I definitely prefer wooden frames with plastic foundation but will probably be using a few plastic frames this year.
Agree the Mann Lake foundation can be a bear to get in the frame. Frustrating when you have a couple hundred to do every season.
Shallows are the worst!
Hi Bob hope you are well! What's your view on the Nicot queen rearing system?
Sorry, I've not used one so couldn't give an informed opinion.
I like the caring and sharing but dude, what's with the camera work? Keep up the good work you do!
I just looked at the video to see what you were referring to. It looks like a combination of poor camera technique (my fault) and something gone wrong with the RUclips side if things. Possibly something happened with the upload (RUclips's fault). Sorry about that. 😇
@@bobbinnie9872 all good Bob, my comment was meant as corrective feed back, i love the message and appreciate the effort to put these videos out. Keep it up my. Mal from Sydney Australia 😁
@@maliboy69 Thank you.
Hello Bob. Please write the sizes of all parts of your frames and hives. Thanks for the first time.
Totally off subject, but may I ask what brand of coveralls do you wear?
I can't get them anymore. They were sold by The Walter T Kelly Co. (Kelly Bees) before Mann Lake bought them out. They're 100% cotton. I guess I'll have to find another brand when the ones I have now wear out.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you very much for your time and I do appreciate it very much.
Do you have dimensions for the frame box.
Genius. That's my least favorite chore in beekeeping
What is the size of the staples you use?
1/4 inch crown by 1-1/2 long.
@@bobbinnie9872 thank you
I ordered a lot of frames and beehives stuff from main lakes. I'll never buy from main lake again while do. My stuff came in moldy and they're trying to tell me that it was a stain. I used which the mold was on there before. I even touched a stain. The mold was so deep. It took a long time to get the mold out with the bleach. There's nothing but light in me. So I boycott man lakes.
СПАСИБО THANKS