Are you getting pictures that are a little out of focus? This is a simple way to check to see if your lens is front or back focusing without any special equipment.
swear I wanted to get rid of my D7000 because I felt it was awful and broken. Played around with the AF settings and now I am in Love again. Ready to go out and shoot in the real world to see if the focus has gotten better. I practiced on some bottle in my room, and now the camera focuses on what and where I want it!!! THANKS!!!
One thing I always recommend is throw the lens out of focus between each shot. I usually stick my hand in front of the lens (too close to focus on), press the focus, then take my hand away and focus on the target. That just insures that it is not picking up the last focus. You can also do this three times in a row for each focal length to see if it lands on the same spot each time.
that was better than wasting time trying to watch this video. He skips over the important point too fast, and wasted all that time chit chatting. Good god. I count even finish this.
+Ray Lassiter thank you for taking the time to let me know it was helpful. With all of the negative comments on RUclips I sometimes wonder if I am actually helping anyone. So it's always good to hear positive comments.
My pleasure, and Vincent please remember this ... no matter what you do or how helpful, straight forward and good your intentions are someone(s) are going to find a way to disagree and complain. My friend keep up the good work and “GOD” bless you.
This is incredibly helpful! I've been using my 35mm Nikor 1.8 more lately but have also noticed in some of my shots (using single point focus) that my subject is not tack sharp and that sometimes even though I put the focus point on my subject eye, it will actually be the background that is in more focus. Never knew this issue had a name (Backfocusing) but I'm going to definitely try this. Luckily I have batteries galore.
New to shooting. But im an engineer, so i noticed these things as i took eye shots. Since checking with your concept, 2 lenses are way off. I didnt even know this, thought my $900 nikkor was just fair? For a supposed 20mm 1.8? Humm. Well now its hella sharp. Thank you.
Great video. I checked both my camera bodies with all my lenses and found them all focusing fine. I thought my ultra zoom was front focusing but after checking it I am certain it is my fault. Some people claim to have major adjustments on every lens they own. I find it really hard to believe in those cases it is not the arrow but the Indian and their love to tinker with stuff.
i'm using a Sigma 150-600 sport on a D810 , almost always at 600mm photographing birds so i'll be testing this technique out later , thanks for the video.:)
This was the easiest technique! Thanks! And BTW, where are all the flawless videos from the dudes that criticized your good work? Yeah, thought so. Thanks for sharing.
thanks for the tip, very simple way to check, though its sometimes difficult to actually decide if a lens is front or back focusing, your video has helped me to understand the issue better
Man, all those years of travel with my Nikon D 7000 and 18-200 Nikkor lens through Africa, Italy, Greece, Japan and others and wondering why my images were pretty blurry. I thought it was me but my 50 mm lens was always tack sharp. So I just now set up in my hotel room here in Maui with a card system I ordered before I left home and sure enough, first few shots were blurry ( about 4 feet away ). I never took the SD card out, just zoomed in, VERY apparent! So I did the old AF fine tune in the menu and started shooting and moving up in numbers. Still blurry but could not tell if it was getting worse. So down to the negatives I would go. At around -5 I was seeing a bit better! I was definitely getting excited. Had to go all the way down to - 14!!! Now have sharp images. Took maybe 8 minutes. More people should know about this! Thank you.
I had a Nikon 18-200 lens that was fine on one camera body but back-focusing on another body. This helped me fix the issue, even though it was a zoom lens. Thanks.
Something else to look at is my method for Nikons. Set your camera to live view and AF on your target. Then switch to viewfinder view and while watching the little rangefinder window on the side of the lens, press shutter release halfway. The live view focus system is different and more accurate than the viewfinder or normal focus system. If the needle moves, adjust the focus in menu. Keep doing that and when the needle does not move, your camera is fine tuned to that lens. All that Vincent says about camera settings, tripod, cable release etc applies as well. I’m not an expert, just an old guy with a camera doing something that works.
Dude thhhhhaaankkk you!!! U JUST SAVED ME SOOOO MUCH GRIEVANCE BY SHOWING US AND SHARING THIS TECHNIQUE ... I CALIBRATED A SIGMA 18-35MM ART using their USB dock and software (micro adjustments are done in the lens) my camera body is Nikon D3200 so no AF adjustment is possible but now it looks ammmmaaaazing!! Thank You!!! ... subscribed.
you are lucky man that Sigma and the new G2 Tamrons invented the usb docks. I have a Nikon D5500 with a 18-140vr (is just a vacantion kit) and i had a lot of front focus at 18mm and no problems at all at 140mm. The only thing i could was to send it to a good service center. They charged me 50 euros and now the front focus at 18mm is still present , but is much smaller (it can't be seen if the aperture is at least 5.6, so no 3.5 if i want to be always sharp) . It seems the maximum calibration that the service can fix is about - or + 7 or 8 units in the af fine tune menu . If your lens is worst than that sell it ! :)
Wow...I never knew about this....my 85MM 1.8 I have a lot of issues with it being sharp....I thought it was just shaky hands....I'm definitely doing this test Thank you so much!!
I know this video is 1+ years old, but I just ran across it and figured I would comment... Two things... if nothing is sharp, then it's a technique issue. If you actually lock onto the center battery for example, it should be sharp, unless your camera is not fully locking focus (because you're below the minimum focus distance or something). Second, while this is useful, I personally find a yard stick to be helpful. Just make note of where you focused (I suggest focusing on a number, such as one around the middle of the stick) and then check based on that. Then if you can remember which number you focused on, it's pretty easy to see if you have front/back focusing, and that's pretty much what the more complex focusing charts tell you, but they give you a little more info than just a plain yard stick.
Thanks for the test!! I thought my lens was backfocusing, and when I did the test, the battery in the middle was the sharpest, BUT the battery behind it was actually sharper than the battery in front of the middle lens. But I decided this won't be a problem.
Thanks for the video. Just bought a 50mm f1.4G for my D500 having read the great reviews about it but on use out if the box it was terrible. I'll give this a go.
Yes it was back focussing and on the wide apertures was pretty much unusable. I used your method and it did improve it so on the strength of that I decided to get scientific and purchase the Focal lens calibration software from Reikan. I must admit it is a very impressive bit of software and extremely easy to use. I'm getting great results now with the lens and also my Tamron 28-70mm f2.8.
I only recently got the D500 having had the D5000 before. I had no idea there could be so much variability in lens focus until I got the D500 and started buying better quality glass other than my usual wide focal range zooms that I'd had previously.
The batteries MUST be at 45 degrees, and spaced equally apart, about 3/4" space in between each one is good. All should have the bold lettering facing the camera in the exact same position. You must also de-focus the lens after every shot, and have the lens re-acquire the focus.
Been struggling with this problem for long time. Ironically, used very similar method to test as you described. Finally got good focus but not tac sharp. Best at 8 - 12 ft, 70 -135mm Using 3 zooms, found same problem all 3. Noticed that sometimes when I changed lenses the problem worsened or mostly corrected. Tested that theory with my 'go to' (Nikkor 18-200) and found that each time I removed and replaced the lens the focus issue changed. Sometimes better, sometimes worse. Indication- lens(es) did not lock on camera exactly the same every time. I cleaned all contacts and locks ... same issue. Is this possible, if so correctable? (D5300 - targets. cans, bottles, batteries- real close to what you showed on video). Right now I am not removing the lens as it is focusing ok. I get better focusing with my P520 & P900 (Up to 1000mm). Thank you for your video, it helped me much. Appreciate your effort in producing it. I notice that many photogs are ego bound and look for issues to "negivate' to show (what they think is) their superiority. Don't let the malcontents get you down. Keep up the good work. Really old film guy.
i had same issue with same lens. i changed settings in micro adjustments on the camera and it was all over the shop. my kit lens focuses sharper than the Tam 24 to 70. sent it back. i am now going to buy the canon 24 to 70, shame it doesnt have the IS though.
Thanks . Except the last part… it’s not always the e lenses fault. It can be the camera microfocus adjustment for that specific lens . You may need to go in camera and micro adjust. Then every time you put that lens on the camera reacts to those adjustments . Docking a telephoto can also help .
I shoot a Nikon D4S, which allows +/- 20 increments of focus accuracy adjustment. I found that one increment is equivalent to about one millimeter but not across all lenses and focus distances. The Sigma 150/500mm I just bought is off and I'm left using "Kentucky windage" (or perhaps more accurately, "Kentucky Elevation"?...), because the error changes as the focal length and lens distance-to-subject changes. I'll have to start noting how much higher/lower I need to place the 'cross-hair' to acquire the intended focus point at a given distance and focal length. That's going to take some time (if I keep it)... I found it's best to avoid the maximum 500mm, and minimum 150mm focal lengths. The images are pretty soft at those two extremes, or at least, they’re too soft for my preferences. So for my purposes, the usable focal lengths are something like 250mm-400mm and it seems to shoot sharpest, (relatively speaking), at about F8 to F11 under mid-day lighting, in most cases. Anyway, it seems that this is the typical performance of the Sigma 150mm/500mm. According to other owners, it comes that way right out of the box. Even Thom Hogan had the same results in his review, (give or take a stop). Anyone want to buy a Sigma 150mm/500mm f5.6 to f6.3 zoom lens? The lens is brand new, not a scratch on it and operates smooth and very quiet. I’ve only used it once since I bought it about 4 months ago. It's in pristine condition, has a lens hood, and I'll even throw in two Filters; A Hoya 86mm Circular Polarizer and an 86mm B&W UV. Like all my lenses, I keep it stored in a very well-padded case, (which is not included). I paid more for it than I’m selling it for; $550. (buyer pays shipping). Let me know and I'll send pics (interested parties only, please). Rich
Thanks for that! BTW; I had to laugh when you were saying why you didn't buy one of those focusing target tools. You said you were inherently disorganized and therefore, felt almost certain that you'd lose it after using it and putting it away. I laughed because I'm meticulous and organize everything I have in one way or the other, (my wife says I'm obsessive-compulsive). I bought a 2-pack of those focus targets two months ago and used it over a period of about a week. Then yesterday, (about 12 noon), I needed to do a new session of focus calibrations on all my lenses because I erased the memory in my camera, I shoot a Nikon D4S, (it's an animal). So I set out to find the targets that I was ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN, were stored in a rigid flap pocket of one of my 4 equipment bags and backpacks. Of course, they weren't there but I wasn't worried. I knew, no..., I was SURE, they were in one of those bags and commenced going through them until I completely scoured each bag and case, top to bottom at least twice! I mean, I removed everything from each and every bag and case. I then began a determined search through my "at home photo equipment", (things like the cases I keep my flash-gun stands, background, frames, empty lens filter cases, etc., etc.). Then I moved on to my desk and storage cabinets. I'll keep from listing my 'extreme search procedure' but instead, I'll say that my search didn't stop until, 6:45 PM! Seriously, 6:45 PM...! I still can't believe that I misplaced those targets! I have no idea where I put them but can only guess that they somehow, wound up in the trash. It's not like they cost me $50 or $60 bucks, noooo! The 2-pack cost me $5.95 TT&L, shipped! It was the principle of the thing, the stubborn refusal to believe that I could have lost these targets. I mean, on the day I used it, I only took one out of the package, for cryin' out loud! So, I can relate to your concern for losing the targets after using them and in fact, that's the reason why I watched your video, LOL Thanks again for a great 'alternative method' to the use of those 'vaporizing' printed targets. ;) Rich PS I did just place an order with Amazon for another 2-pack of those targets but they're on back order so until they get here, I'm using the "AA Battery method".
FYI: One day after the replacement targets arrived and as I was setting it up to start checking/calibrating the focus on several lenes, I found the package of the two previous targets. I would have taking 2 to 1 odds on any bet of $50.00 or more, that this would have happened and would have happened then! LOL Rich
Very informative! Your explanation was spot on. But you didn't address the fact that the auto focus micro-adjust feature in newer DSLR's can actually fix this!
My Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 has a wide, but consistent difference in the micro-focus adjustments. I have done the test manually and used FoCal and the results are repeatable. Canon 6D, -5 at 24mm and -15 at 70mm. Canon 7Dm2, +5 at 24mm and +7 at 70mm. Interesting that my Canon 16-35mm f/4L had a result of 0 & -2 on the 6D and -1 & -1 on the 7Dm2.
I have a 150-600 Sigma with bad out of the box focus, have now ordered the sigma dock, and was wondering about the distance to set up my focusing target using a crop sensor camera. Should I make an adjustment of 1.6 times 150mm times 25mm to establish where to place my subject and then 1.6 times 600mm times 25mm to move the subject target?
OK I have a Nikon D700 & 18-35mm F3.5-4.5D ED and I'm shooting full frame groups from 100-200 individuals mainly wide open at 18mm maybe 20mm what would you recommend I do to get the best quality to print 8 X 12 print? thanks Zip
I didn't understand the point you said about distance. I think my sigma 18-35mm f1.8 has some focus issues I don't know how to fix 😔 I bought the sigma usb dock too.
I'm not sure if this Video predates Tamrons SP G2 Line, or not. But, if not why didn't you use the Tap-in Console? I just recently picked up a beastly Tamron 150-600 G2. I'm not sure if its front or back focusing or not on my old 5DMkII, but at 0 correction nothing is really sharp. And, sometimes I think it's -15, other times it seems out by +5. Im lucky enough to have a 3d printer, so I printed a target scale I just have to set it up tomorrow when the stores reopen after Good Friday. As I need to glue a few bits together.
Nikon D5X00 cameras lack the micro-focus adjustment feature found in D7X00 cameras. On these camers viewfinder front focus and back focus problems cannot be fixed via auto-focus fine tuning. Fortunately, there is an undocumented mechanical adjustment screw inside the mirror box in D5X00 cameras that can be used to correct this problem. This screw has a 2mm hex socket and is found just behind the bottom edge of the mirror on the right side wall of the mirror box. After shooting test photos of a lens alignment target, determine whether the camera is front focusing or back focusing. The camera should then be put in mirror lock-up mode and the lens removed, exposing the mirror box. To fix front focus, the screw should be turned counter-clockwise. To fix back focus, the screw should be turned clockwise.It should take only about a quarter-turn of the screw to fine-tune the focus system for your lens.
I just brought a Tamron 150-160mm f4.6/6 lens and have problems with focus. What is the best way to check out this lens for focus? I have a Canon 70D camera.
I liked the video, great info. But you didn't talk about how to fix when we do find a lens that is not focusing correctly. Just wish that was part of the video.
Thanks for the video I will be purchasing a. Like new lens from Amazon at 2\3 the price of a new one. I will test the focus immediately. If the focus is off. I will send it back.
i sort of got the vibe the lenses tend or can go out of focus... what i would like to know is what can or does cause for them to start back/front or just start misfocusing,.. would appreciate some insight
Thank you, very simple and strait forward, i am having issues with a sigma 30mm 1.4, 8 out of 10 pics are out of focus , i am betting its user error and not lens , i will check it tomorrow. thanks again
I have yet to find a any lens out of the box that is 100% focus sharp on any of my Camera bodies without micro-adjust focusing on the camera bodies. Your video did not include any instructions on this, but that's okay as other RUclips videos describe the menu adjustment operation. However, I disagree the menu adjustment on zoom lenses. The menu micro-adjustments for Wide and Telephoto are separate. Adjusting the W does not affect the T, and vice-versa. And there is no need to return a lens to the factory for adjustment, unless you send the camera long with it. The camera body must be calibrated to each lens, and most camera bodies allows up to 50 lenses to be registered into the menu. This way when changing a lens, the camera will detect the lens and compensate using the calibrated configurations. Hope this helps.
The main goal of this video is to teach how to determine IF the lens is back or front-focusing. How you then should adjust that is different in every brand and model, so you can't blame him for not covering that.
The process for adjustment is too different camera to camera. The difference is even big model to model. My Canon 80d and Canon 7d mark ii are different. But other than that I agree with the wife vs telephoto adjustment for sure.
Ive used a ruler (Carpenter 2m or yardstick as americans probably call it? you know the thing civilworkers use or other installation peeps) just put it in the pane of my camers aim - put a box at a round value and focussed. That way i could figure out that my BODY actually was front focussing all the time, i tested it with 4 lenses that i didnt had any issues on my 77D (obviously its helpfull to have a spare body to rule the lenses out as a culprit) and had to conclude, my 6D MKii has front focussing so i sent it in for repairs and probably wont see it for 1-2 months but... i hope that solves it. There is nothing more annoying to do some shots just to see in post that all of your pictures are out of focus and the actual in focus ones are mostly a .... well focussing error that compensated for the front focussing :-(
The first part.....was absolutely great...very informativ....but at the end.....too bad I cant see the end result.....and one more thing...those batteries....was that 45 degrees?
You make an interesting point about which item may be out of focus - Is it the lens or the camera itself? So if both are out how is one able to set either camera or lens correctly? It's like one disagreeing with the other and no common ground will ever be established thus never getting proper focus. (...Does that make sense? hmm!)
Got exactly the same problem with my tamron 24- 70, 2.8f. The eyes are ok nut the ears are Sharp... tried to sent it back to the factury but they did not fix it all.
Recently I got 50-135 2.8 lens. What I've discovered, unfortunately is that it's back OR front focusing at wide angles and this varies shot to shot. So unless it's not stable I won't worry, just set it to plus or minus and there you go. In my case, this lens is going back to shop. Thing is that, right out of the box, in a short test, you might think that everything is ok, but in reality the lens may back or front focus spontaneously and you'll end up with blurred images.
Did you calibrate your Tamron lens with the Tap in Console and your computer according to their recommendations? That calibration would solve the problem instead of returning the lens especially with DSLR and not a mirrorless camera. The third party lenses need to be calibrated.
i have d7000 with the kit lens 18-105 not happy with it's soft images and focusing issue, i tried all solutions online, still not happy as when i shoot with my friends canon 5d i get crazy sharp and crisp images
I also hate those long videos where one talks waaay too much about diagnosing the problem then, what feels like 20 hours later, they finally give the solution. Not sure why RUclips doesn't allow us to skip to different sections of the video. It's very restricting and I think the implementation of the 'skip-to-where-ever-one-feels-with-preview-while-skipping' would benefit many a soul who are tight on time because time is money and money is precious and sh*t like dat feel me dawg. Time to watch your extremely short video. *i BRB.
Ok so just got the same lens on a Canon 80D, did the same test at around 2ft and all batteries seemed to be the same in focus but at 24mm nothing is sharp
Contact Alzo Digital, CT & ask for ATG's AF Micro-adjustment (mod/service/support for working pros), if you are lost /or need more information. I had my Phantom Flex 4K, Canon EOS-1D X Mark II & Sony A7r III mod/serviced by ATG. Again, just send ATG an email & get ready to learn from the best.
Good video, but I didn’t understand how you set up the batteries. You said they were set at a 45 degree angle, but it looked like they were all set at the same focal length.
Such a shame you didn't like your lens, it's such a good lens when it's on point. Tamron are now making their own version of the Sigma Hub so you can tune their lenses in the same way as with Sigma. I don't have the Tamron version yet but the Sigma does throw up its own problems as I found out. I fine tuned my Sigma 150-600 on my Canon 7D mk II and on that camera it is as sharp as many prime lenses over its full range as you fine tune it for different distances. The problems comes up though when I put it on my 5D III as it is now noticeably out on that camera. It's no biggie as I usually have my 70-200 on that camera but it is something to be aware of if you are fine tuning your lens through the lens's firmware.
is front/back focusing problem is only a problem if you're using autofocus on the widest aperture of the lens? I'm considering to buy a used lens (Tamron 60mm f2 macro) from a seller and i dont think i can do this test during the 'inspection' time hahah Thank you in advance, Hadi
Regarding the distance - What do you mean with the "minimum focusing"? I got a Tamron 150-600 mm. What distance shall i use? How do you place the batteries? can't see It on your video. Why don't you show HOW I do the setup in the camera (canon in my case) to correct.
Vibration compensation always tries to compensate camera shake. In case your camera is on a tripod you do not really have camera shake. The vibration compensation, however, tries to compensate something thats not there. So this might result in blurry images.
swear I wanted to get rid of my D7000 because I felt it was awful and broken. Played around with the AF settings and now I am in Love again. Ready to go out and shoot in the real world to see if the focus has gotten better. I practiced on some bottle in my room, and now the camera focuses on what and where I want it!!! THANKS!!!
One thing I always recommend is throw the lens out of focus between each shot. I usually stick my hand in front of the lens (too close to focus on), press the focus, then take my hand away and focus on the target. That just insures that it is not picking up the last focus. You can also do this three times in a row for each focal length to see if it lands on the same spot each time.
That's a VERY useful tip! Thanks!
Great point and advice. I actually do that and have been without realizing it is a technique. Glad I saw your comment.
that was better than wasting time trying to watch this video. He skips over the important point too fast, and wasted all that time chit chatting. Good god. I count even finish this.
I want to thank you for taking the time to demonstrate and record this very informative and easy test and then sharing it with us, thanks again
+Ray Lassiter thank you for taking the time to let me know it was helpful. With all of the negative comments on RUclips I sometimes wonder if I am actually helping anyone. So it's always good to hear positive comments.
My pleasure, and Vincent please remember this ... no matter what you do or how helpful, straight forward and good your intentions are someone(s) are going to find a way to disagree and complain. My friend keep up the good work and “GOD” bless you.
Thanks for the brilliant idea! That worked 100% and was a lot of fun.
Dude. I liked your video but . . .
You kind of did exactly what you said you hated about other people's video.
I was thinking exactly the same thing... ha ha ha
Ditto!
😂😂😂
I am afraid what is at the end of the video
Agreed. Watched about 4 mins then started skipping through to see if it actually showed me anything
Nice to the point video. Going to test my lenses now. Don't know what the people complaining that you talk too much are listening to.
This is incredibly helpful! I've been using my 35mm Nikor 1.8 more lately but have also noticed in some of my shots (using single point focus) that my subject is not tack sharp and that sometimes even though I put the focus point on my subject eye, it will actually be the background that is in more focus.
Never knew this issue had a name (Backfocusing) but I'm going to definitely try this. Luckily I have batteries galore.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
New to shooting. But im an engineer, so i noticed these things as i took eye shots. Since checking with your concept, 2 lenses are way off. I didnt even know this, thought my $900 nikkor was just fair? For a supposed 20mm 1.8? Humm. Well now its hella sharp. Thank you.
Great video. I checked both my camera bodies with all my lenses and found them all focusing fine. I thought my ultra zoom was front focusing but after checking it I am certain it is my fault. Some people claim to have major adjustments on every lens they own. I find it really hard to believe in those cases it is not the arrow but the Indian and their love to tinker with stuff.
i'm using a Sigma 150-600 sport on a D810 , almost always at 600mm photographing birds so i'll be testing this technique out later , thanks for the video.:)
This was the easiest technique! Thanks! And BTW, where are all the flawless videos from the dudes that criticized your good work? Yeah, thought so. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you best and easiest calibration vid out there clear, simple and easy to understand.
thanks for the tip, very simple way to check, though its sometimes difficult to actually decide if a lens is front or back focusing, your video has helped me to understand the issue better
Great video ! Very simple and easy way to check your lens for focus issues. Thank you !
Man, all those years of travel with my Nikon D 7000 and 18-200 Nikkor lens through Africa, Italy, Greece, Japan and others and wondering why my images were pretty blurry. I thought it was me but my 50 mm lens was always tack sharp. So I just now set up in my hotel room here in Maui with a card system I ordered before I left home and sure enough, first few shots were blurry ( about 4 feet away ). I never took the SD card out, just zoomed in, VERY apparent! So I did the old AF fine tune in the menu and started shooting and moving up in numbers. Still blurry but could not tell if it was getting worse. So down to the negatives I would go. At around -5 I was seeing a bit better! I was definitely getting excited. Had to go all the way down to - 14!!! Now have sharp images. Took maybe 8 minutes. More people should know about this! Thank you.
Thanks, I am going to test my lenses with your method!
I had a Nikon 18-200 lens that was fine on one camera body but back-focusing on another body. This helped me fix the issue, even though it was a zoom lens. Thanks.
Something else to look at is my method for Nikons. Set your camera to live view and AF on your target. Then switch to viewfinder view and while watching the little rangefinder window on the side of the lens, press shutter release halfway. The live view focus system is different and more accurate than the viewfinder or normal focus system. If the needle moves, adjust the focus in menu. Keep doing that and when the needle does not move, your camera is fine tuned to that lens. All that Vincent says about camera settings, tripod, cable release etc applies as well. I’m not an expert, just an old guy with a camera doing something that works.
Dude thhhhhaaankkk you!!! U JUST SAVED ME SOOOO MUCH GRIEVANCE BY SHOWING US AND SHARING THIS TECHNIQUE ... I CALIBRATED A SIGMA 18-35MM ART using their USB dock and software (micro adjustments are done in the lens) my camera body is Nikon D3200 so no AF adjustment is possible but now it looks ammmmaaaazing!! Thank You!!! ... subscribed.
you are lucky man that Sigma and the new G2 Tamrons invented the usb docks. I have a Nikon D5500 with a 18-140vr (is just a vacantion kit) and i had a lot of front focus at 18mm and no problems at all at 140mm. The only thing i could was to send it to a good service center. They charged me 50 euros and now the front focus at 18mm is still present , but is much smaller (it can't be seen if the aperture is at least 5.6, so no 3.5 if i want to be always sharp) . It seems the maximum calibration that the service can fix is about - or + 7 or 8 units in the af fine tune menu . If your lens is worst than that sell it ! :)
Excellent info. Great method here. Thanks!
Wow...I never knew about this....my 85MM 1.8 I have a lot of issues with it being sharp....I thought it was just shaky hands....I'm definitely doing this test
Thank you so much!!
Great video but I was expecting to see you do the adjustments on the camera. Any reason why not?
great video , very useful , I really appreciate the time that you invested doing it
Thank you for making this video. Do you have a video on how to sync camer for high speed flash?
I know this video is 1+ years old, but I just ran across it and figured I would comment... Two things... if nothing is sharp, then it's a technique issue. If you actually lock onto the center battery for example, it should be sharp, unless your camera is not fully locking focus (because you're below the minimum focus distance or something). Second, while this is useful, I personally find a yard stick to be helpful. Just make note of where you focused (I suggest focusing on a number, such as one around the middle of the stick) and then check based on that. Then if you can remember which number you focused on, it's pretty easy to see if you have front/back focusing, and that's pretty much what the more complex focusing charts tell you, but they give you a little more info than just a plain yard stick.
Thanks man awesome tutorial.
Excellent presentation and will try it out today...
Thanks for the test!! I thought my lens was backfocusing, and when I did the test, the battery in the middle was the sharpest, BUT the battery behind it was actually sharper than the battery in front of the middle lens. But I decided this won't be a problem.
Very good instruction. Many thanks! Love from Pakistan.
Thanks! This was helpful.
Great tips!
Thanks - great video and easy to test
ramble on. Good tip tho and easy to implement . the fly at 6:10 needs some micro adjustment :) thanks for your help.
Thanks for the video. Just bought a 50mm f1.4G for my D500 having read the great reviews about it but on use out if the box it was terrible. I'll give this a go.
Did you find that it was having focus issues? I have the same lens. It's been fine for a year, and now all of the sudden it is back focusing.
Yes it was back focussing and on the wide apertures was pretty much unusable. I used your method and it did improve it so on the strength of that I decided to get scientific and purchase the Focal lens calibration software from Reikan. I must admit it is a very impressive bit of software and extremely easy to use. I'm getting great results now with the lens and also my Tamron 28-70mm f2.8.
Awesome, glad you figured it out. My body is the d5300, so unfortunately, I can't correct for it in the camera.
I only recently got the D500 having had the D5000 before. I had no idea there could be so much variability in lens focus until I got the D500 and started buying better quality glass other than my usual wide focal range zooms that I'd had previously.
The batteries MUST be at 45 degrees, and spaced equally apart, about 3/4" space in between each one is good. All should have the bold lettering facing the camera in the exact same position. You must also de-focus the lens after every shot, and have the lens re-acquire the focus.
So, appreciate the video. How do you determine each battery is at 45° angle to the previous battery? Also, you never said how make the adjustment.
Been struggling with this problem for long time. Ironically, used very similar method to test as you described. Finally got good focus but not tac sharp. Best at 8 - 12 ft, 70 -135mm
Using 3 zooms, found same problem all 3. Noticed that sometimes when I changed lenses the problem worsened or mostly corrected. Tested that theory with my 'go to' (Nikkor 18-200) and found that each time I removed and replaced the lens the focus issue changed. Sometimes better, sometimes worse.
Indication- lens(es) did not lock on camera exactly the same every time. I cleaned all contacts and locks ... same issue. Is this possible, if so correctable? (D5300 - targets. cans, bottles, batteries- real close to what you showed on video). Right now I am not removing the lens as it is focusing ok. I get better focusing with my P520 & P900 (Up to 1000mm).
Thank you for your video, it helped me much. Appreciate your effort in producing it. I notice that many photogs are ego bound and look for issues to "negivate' to show (what they think is) their superiority. Don't let the malcontents get you down. Keep up the good work.
Really old film guy.
i had same issue with same lens. i changed settings in micro adjustments on the camera and it was all over the shop. my kit lens focuses sharper than the Tam 24 to 70. sent it back. i am now going to buy the canon 24 to 70, shame it doesnt have the IS though.
Thanks . Except the last part… it’s not always the e lenses fault. It can be the camera microfocus adjustment for that specific lens . You may need to go in camera and micro adjust. Then every time you put that lens on the camera reacts to those adjustments . Docking a telephoto can also help .
I shoot a Nikon D4S, which allows +/- 20 increments of focus accuracy adjustment. I found that one increment is equivalent to about one millimeter but not across all lenses and focus distances.
The Sigma 150/500mm I just bought is off and I'm left using "Kentucky windage" (or perhaps more accurately, "Kentucky Elevation"?...), because the error changes as the focal length and lens distance-to-subject changes.
I'll have to start noting how much higher/lower I need to place the 'cross-hair' to acquire the intended focus point at a given distance and focal length. That's going to take some time (if I keep it)...
I found it's best to avoid the maximum 500mm, and minimum 150mm focal lengths. The images are pretty soft at those two extremes, or at least, they’re too soft for my preferences.
So for my purposes, the usable focal lengths are something like 250mm-400mm and it seems to shoot sharpest, (relatively speaking), at about F8 to F11 under mid-day lighting, in most cases.
Anyway, it seems that this is the typical performance of the Sigma 150mm/500mm. According to other owners, it comes that way right out of the box. Even Thom Hogan had the same results in his review, (give or take a stop).
Anyone want to buy a Sigma 150mm/500mm f5.6 to f6.3 zoom lens? The lens is brand new, not a scratch on it and operates smooth and very quiet. I’ve only used it once since I bought it about 4 months ago.
It's in pristine condition, has a lens hood, and I'll even throw in two Filters; A Hoya 86mm Circular Polarizer and an 86mm B&W UV. Like all my lenses, I keep it stored in a very well-padded case, (which is not included).
I paid more for it than I’m selling it for; $550. (buyer pays shipping). Let me know and I'll send pics (interested parties only, please).
Rich
My Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens has front focus problem. My D5300 doesn't have a microfocus adjustment option.
What should I do?
Thanks for that! BTW; I had to laugh when you were saying why you didn't buy one of those focusing target tools. You said you were inherently disorganized and therefore, felt almost certain that you'd lose it after using it and putting it away.
I laughed because I'm meticulous and organize everything I have in one way or the other, (my wife says I'm obsessive-compulsive). I bought a 2-pack of those focus targets two months ago and used it over a period of about a week. Then yesterday, (about 12 noon), I needed to do a new session of focus calibrations on all my lenses because I erased the memory in my camera, I shoot a Nikon D4S, (it's an animal).
So I set out to find the targets that I was ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN, were stored in a rigid flap pocket of one of my 4 equipment bags and backpacks. Of course, they weren't there but I wasn't worried. I knew, no..., I was SURE, they were in one of those bags and commenced going through them until I completely scoured each bag and case, top to bottom at least twice! I mean, I removed everything from each and every bag and case.
I then began a determined search through my "at home photo equipment", (things like the cases I keep my flash-gun stands, background, frames, empty lens filter cases, etc., etc.). Then I moved on to my desk and storage cabinets. I'll keep from listing my 'extreme search procedure' but instead, I'll say that my search didn't stop until, 6:45 PM!
Seriously, 6:45 PM...! I still can't believe that I misplaced those targets! I have no idea where I put them but can only guess that they somehow, wound up in the trash. It's not like they cost me $50 or $60 bucks, noooo! The 2-pack cost me $5.95 TT&L, shipped!
It was the principle of the thing, the stubborn refusal to believe that I could have lost these targets. I mean, on the day I used it, I only took one out of the package, for cryin' out loud! So, I can relate to your concern for losing the targets after using them and in fact, that's the reason why I watched your video, LOL
Thanks again for a great 'alternative method' to the use of those 'vaporizing' printed targets. ;)
Rich
PS I did just place an order with Amazon for another 2-pack of those targets but they're on back order so until they get here, I'm using the "AA Battery method".
FYI: One day after the replacement targets arrived and as I was setting it up to start checking/calibrating the focus on several lenes, I found the package of the two previous targets.
I would have taking 2 to 1 odds on any bet of $50.00 or more, that this would have happened and would have happened then! LOL
Rich
Very informative! Your explanation was spot on. But you didn't address the fact that the auto focus micro-adjust feature in newer DSLR's can actually fix this!
My Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 has a wide, but consistent difference in the micro-focus adjustments.
I have done the test manually and used FoCal and the results are repeatable.
Canon 6D, -5 at 24mm and -15 at 70mm.
Canon 7Dm2, +5 at 24mm and +7 at 70mm. Interesting that my Canon 16-35mm f/4L had a result of 0 & -2 on the 6D and -1 & -1 on the 7Dm2.
I have a 150-600 Sigma with bad out of the box focus, have now ordered the sigma dock, and was wondering about the distance to set up my focusing target using a crop sensor camera. Should I make an adjustment of 1.6 times 150mm times 25mm to establish where to place my subject and then 1.6 times 600mm times 25mm to move the subject target?
OK I have a Nikon D700 & 18-35mm F3.5-4.5D ED and I'm shooting full frame groups from 100-200 individuals mainly wide open at 18mm maybe 20mm
what would you recommend I do to get the best quality to print 8 X 12 print?
thanks Zip
I didn't understand the point you said about distance. I think my sigma 18-35mm f1.8 has some focus issues I don't know how to fix 😔 I bought the sigma usb dock too.
What ware your settings for Tamron 24-70 lens to calibrate?
Great video!
Thank you buddy.
great info bro. Thanks
Thank you!
I'm not sure if this Video predates Tamrons SP G2 Line, or not. But, if not why didn't you use the Tap-in Console?
I just recently picked up a beastly Tamron 150-600 G2. I'm not sure if its front or back focusing or not on my old 5DMkII, but at 0 correction nothing is really sharp. And, sometimes I think it's -15, other times it seems out by +5.
Im lucky enough to have a 3d printer, so I printed a target scale I just have to set it up tomorrow when the stores reopen after Good Friday. As I need to glue a few bits together.
Thank you for your comments and I'll try this out. Your comments made sense.
Nikon D5X00 cameras lack the micro-focus adjustment feature found in D7X00 cameras. On these camers viewfinder front focus and back focus problems cannot be fixed via auto-focus fine tuning.
Fortunately, there is an undocumented mechanical adjustment screw inside the mirror box in D5X00 cameras that can be used to correct this problem. This screw has a 2mm hex socket and is found just behind the bottom edge of the mirror on the right side wall of the mirror box.
After shooting test photos of a lens alignment target, determine whether the camera is front focusing or back focusing. The camera should then be put in mirror lock-up mode and the lens removed, exposing the mirror box. To fix front focus, the screw should be turned counter-clockwise. To fix back focus, the screw should be turned clockwise.It should take only about a quarter-turn of the screw to fine-tune the focus system for
your lens.
Really usevful video. Thanks a lot.
I just brought a Tamron 150-160mm f4.6/6 lens and have problems with focus. What is the best way to check out this lens for focus? I have a Canon 70D camera.
I liked the video, great info. But you didn't talk about how to fix when we do find a lens that is not focusing correctly. Just wish that was part of the video.
Is calibrating a prime lens on a crop sensor DSLR different from full frame?
Did you put the batteries in a straight line or slanted like stairs.
Thank you.
Great. Thanks
Great video
Thanks for the video
I will be purchasing a. Like new lens from Amazon at 2\3 the price of a new one. I will test the focus immediately. If the focus is off. I will send it back.
i sort of got the vibe the lenses tend or can go out of focus... what i would like to know is what can or does cause for them to start back/front or just start misfocusing,.. would appreciate some insight
Thank you, very simple and strait forward, i am having issues with a sigma 30mm 1.4, 8 out of 10 pics are out of focus , i am betting its user error and not lens , i will check it tomorrow.
thanks again
Tin Puc having the same problem
I have yet to find a any lens out of the box that is 100% focus sharp on any of my Camera bodies without micro-adjust focusing on the camera bodies. Your video did not include any instructions on this, but that's okay as other RUclips videos describe the menu adjustment operation. However, I disagree the menu adjustment on zoom lenses. The menu micro-adjustments for Wide and Telephoto are separate. Adjusting the W does not affect the T, and vice-versa. And there is no need to return a lens to the factory for adjustment, unless you send the camera long with it. The camera body must be calibrated to each lens, and most camera bodies allows up to 50 lenses to be registered into the menu. This way when changing a lens, the camera will detect the lens and compensate using the calibrated configurations. Hope this helps.
The main goal of this video is to teach how to determine IF the lens is back or front-focusing. How you then should adjust that is different in every brand and model, so you can't blame him for not covering that.
The process for adjustment is too different camera to camera. The difference is even big model to model. My Canon 80d and Canon 7d mark ii are different. But other than that I agree with the wife vs telephoto adjustment for sure.
great share and info thnx :)
25x focal length meaning the max focal length of the lens or what focal length you're using during the test
Ive used a ruler (Carpenter 2m or yardstick as americans probably call it? you know the thing civilworkers use or other installation peeps) just put it in the pane of my camers aim - put a box at a round value and focussed. That way i could figure out that my BODY actually was front focussing all the time, i tested it with 4 lenses that i didnt had any issues on my 77D (obviously its helpfull to have a spare body to rule the lenses out as a culprit) and had to conclude, my 6D MKii has front focussing so i sent it in for repairs and probably wont see it for 1-2 months but... i hope that solves it. There is nothing more annoying to do some shots just to see in post that all of your pictures are out of focus and the actual in focus ones are mostly a .... well focussing error that compensated for the front focussing :-(
The first part.....was absolutely great...very informativ....but at the end.....too bad I cant see the end result.....and one more thing...those batteries....was that 45 degrees?
You make an interesting point about which item may be out of focus - Is it the lens or the camera itself? So if both are out how is one able to set either camera or lens correctly? It's like one disagreeing with the other and no common ground will ever be established thus never getting proper focus. (...Does that make sense? hmm!)
Good video, Thanks. :)
Thank u
Got exactly the same problem with my tamron 24- 70, 2.8f. The eyes are ok nut the ears are Sharp... tried to sent it back to the factury but they did not fix it all.
GET ON WITH IT!!!!!
Recently I got 50-135 2.8 lens. What I've discovered, unfortunately is that it's back OR front focusing at wide angles and this varies shot to shot. So unless it's not stable I won't worry, just set it to plus or minus and there you go. In my case, this lens is going back to shop. Thing is that, right out of the box, in a short test, you might think that everything is ok, but in reality the lens may back or front focus spontaneously and you'll end up with blurred images.
can the rebel xs be calibrated ?
Did you calibrate your Tamron lens with the Tap in Console and your computer according to their recommendations? That calibration would solve the problem instead of returning the lens especially with DSLR and not a mirrorless camera. The third party lenses need to be calibrated.
i have d7000 with the kit lens 18-105 not happy with it's soft images and focusing issue, i tried all solutions online, still not happy as when i shoot with my friends canon 5d i get crazy sharp and crisp images
I also hate those long videos where one talks waaay too much about diagnosing the problem then, what feels like 20 hours later, they finally give the solution. Not sure why RUclips doesn't allow us to skip to different sections of the video. It's very restricting and I think the implementation of the 'skip-to-where-ever-one-feels-with-preview-while-skipping' would benefit many a soul who are tight on time because time is money and money is precious and sh*t like dat feel me dawg. Time to watch your extremely short video. *i BRB.
Ok so just got the same lens on a Canon 80D, did the same test at around 2ft and all batteries seemed to be the same in focus but at 24mm nothing is sharp
That is why you should buy Tamron G2 and Sigma Global Vision lenses now because you can adjust them on the dock.
Contact Alzo Digital, CT & ask for ATG's AF Micro-adjustment (mod/service/support for working pros), if you are lost /or need more information.
I had my Phantom Flex 4K, Canon EOS-1D X Mark II & Sony A7r III mod/serviced by ATG.
Again, just send ATG an email & get ready to learn from the best.
Does this help with video focusing also?
Good video, but I didn’t understand how you set up the batteries. You said they were set at a 45 degree angle, but it looked like they were all set at the same focal length.
(By the way: THANKS for taking the time to make this video bro, didn't mean to be unthankful or anything :)
One word....WOW!.....Actually two......Thanks!
Such a shame you didn't like your lens, it's such a good lens when it's on point. Tamron are now making their own version of the Sigma Hub so you can tune their lenses in the same way as with Sigma. I don't have the Tamron version yet but the Sigma does throw up its own problems as I found out. I fine tuned my Sigma 150-600 on my Canon 7D mk II and on that camera it is as sharp as many prime lenses over its full range as you fine tune it for different distances. The problems comes up though when I put it on my 5D III as it is now noticeably out on that camera. It's no biggie as I usually have my 70-200 on that camera but it is something to be aware of if you are fine tuning your lens through the lens's firmware.
so, in this scenario, with a back focusing issue, would you make a positive or negative adjustment in the camera?
Richard O'Donnell negative adjustment
What button do I push?
Nice vid
is front/back focusing problem is only a problem if you're using autofocus on the widest aperture of the lens?
I'm considering to buy a used lens (Tamron 60mm f2 macro) from a seller and i dont think i can do this test during the 'inspection' time hahah
Thank you in advance,
Hadi
Fly sound freaked me out at 6:10
Jeez I was wearing my Bose headphones when it happened, I almost ran out the room.
Regarding the distance - What do you mean with the "minimum focusing"? I got a Tamron 150-600 mm. What distance shall i use?
How do you place the batteries? can't see It on your video.
Why don't you show HOW I do the setup in the camera (canon in my case) to correct.
Hi! Did you get the answer about distance between the lens and batteries?
do not rubbish other tutorials, I looking for a fix on back focus and still looking for
Why not place the batteries in the center and then point them corner to corner giving you a perfect 45 degree angle? (provided your book is square)
Why do you recommend turning vibration compensation off? What's the downside of using it?
Vibration compensation always tries to compensate camera shake. In case your camera is on a tripod you do not really have camera shake. The vibration compensation, however, tries to compensate something thats not there. So this might result in blurry images.
Armin Hubner that's and what about shooting birds in Flight? What range of shutter speed would you recommend using VC/IS/OS for handled?
How to feet in24-120mm lens
At 6:36, the farthest battery is not at the same position as it was in the previous pictures.
Maybe the lens was sharp at the 24mm :)