Just adding my .02. Years ago ( I’ m old) we used the accumulators to prime our dirt track engines before we started them. So right before shutdown, close the valve. Right before startup, open the valve. Oh, always appreciate your videos. Well done.
As an retired ASE Master Tech since 1978, I am jumping off the beaten path with this comment. How many drive home with a vehicle equipped with “Auto stop-Auto start” systems. Trucks & cars alike suffer from the loss of that crucial hydrodynamic lubricant wedge! Racing or hill climbing is one thing, but if you don’t lease your vehicle or trade it in every two years, I would instal one with a solenoid wired to the starter solenoid. I want my engine to have oil pressure quicker than the slow drip of death sitting at a red light. Some would argue that oil is between the rods & mains, but a what pressure? None! I want a minimum of 5-10 PSI that happens to be slightly more than a switch for an idiot light specs. You can find room and an oil gallery to tap into. Galleries are cast into the block, drilled, honed and threaded cap installed. Hey, it is better to have a good engine in your buggy but also a way to tow it home. Unless you want to spend time to defeat the Auto off system by running the A/C on max during a -9 degree F winter in February! Your choice.
@@BustedKnuckleOffRoad I found out that trucks have an over ride switch. Most likely for towing, but I would like to look at a schematic to see it goes into un-used terminal on the PCM or what. The A/C control and dash response is most likely all class-2 serial data signals. So, even if PCM is programmed for it, it would be hard to create the correct input to over-ride. I will work on that thought after I talk the guys I worked at dealer. I bet they have a pump inside the trans to keep it ready for first gear as well. DK, Omaha
I go off roading with a 1991 s10 blazer. It has the 4.3, which has the deep oil pan (to clear the front diff from factory) and I haven’t lost oil pressure on steep angles yet, and neither has bleepinjeep, so this really only applies to shallow pans
What size hose do you typically use to plumb this using AN fittings and hose? Also how would I go about installing an accumulator like this on a jeep 4.0 engine? I'm guessing the 1/8 NPT pressure sensor hole is too small to tap into? So maybe a sandwich plate at the oil filter or do you have any recommendations for a 4.0? It's plumbed using 1 hose tapped into the oil system right? and when or if pressure is lost it releases its contents into the engine buying a little time? I'm very interested in installing one of these on my jeep I'm just trying to think of where to plumb it on the engine, I don't really want to run a sandwich plate if I don't have to. I already added an extra 1/8 npt port for my oil temp sensor next to the oil pressure sensor its a little crowded, depending on the hose size I think I'd have to go straight to the block at the larger thread where an oem adapter usually is that reduces it from 3/8 or 1/4 npt to the little 1/8 thread.
So I have one concern. What about the fact that oil pressure is slower at idle than at revs.... When you rev up it would take more time for the pressure to rise? Also do you check your oil level and close the valve at idle or at higher rpm??? I am asking this because I want one for my daihatsu feroza :)
Busted Knuckle is right. Add this system. Your questions; Slow RPM’s require lower volume, resulting in less pressure. No volume, no pressure, just like fuel pressure. Run engine at good oil pressure range, shut tank off. Check oil. Oil pan holds oil and accumulator as well. A running engine has oil in lifters, inside heads, cam & crank sling oil up, oil running down the block & thru return holes. This accumulator saves a volume of oil to keep any pressure to the rotating mass to prevent failure. It is your choice. I have a solenoid operated accumulator on the 3 cars, motorcycle and convertible I don’t drive often. After decades of working on these and seeing bearing wear on crank, cam and rockers. Catch cans work well also. The 113k LS engine from my son’s Tahoe had valve tip wear on the the evacuation side, while the other side was inlet fresh air, I was convinced! ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired.
Yeah it was 100 degrees in the shop making me breathe hard. It's hot down here in Alabama with all the doors closed so you can't hear all the passing traffic.
Just adding my .02. Years ago ( I’ m old) we used the accumulators to prime our dirt track engines before we started them. So right before shutdown, close the valve. Right before startup, open the valve. Oh, always appreciate your videos. Well done.
You can do that for sure, especially if the vehicle sits for a long period of time.
You can add a solenoid switch to your ignition and then it will automatically open every time you turn the ignition on right before starting
As an retired ASE Master Tech since 1978, I am jumping off the beaten path with this comment. How many drive home with a vehicle equipped with “Auto stop-Auto start” systems. Trucks & cars alike suffer from the loss of that crucial hydrodynamic lubricant wedge! Racing or hill climbing is one thing, but if you don’t lease your vehicle or trade it in every two years, I would instal one with a solenoid wired to the starter solenoid. I want my engine to have oil pressure quicker than the slow drip of death sitting at a red light. Some would argue that oil is between the rods & mains, but a what pressure? None! I want a minimum of 5-10 PSI that happens to be slightly more than a switch for an idiot light specs. You can find room and an oil gallery to tap into. Galleries are cast into the block, drilled, honed and threaded cap installed. Hey, it is better to have a good engine in your buggy but also a way to tow it home. Unless you want to spend time to defeat the Auto off system by running the A/C on max during a -9 degree F winter in February! Your choice.
that is definitely something to think about
@@BustedKnuckleOffRoad I found out that trucks have an over ride switch. Most likely for towing, but I would like to look at a schematic to see it goes into un-used terminal on the PCM or what. The A/C control and dash response is most likely all class-2 serial data signals. So, even if PCM is programmed for it, it would be hard to create the correct input to over-ride. I will work on that thought after I talk the guys I worked at dealer. I bet they have a pump inside the trans to keep it ready for first gear as well. DK, Omaha
Even though I do not have a rock bouncer and probably never will I love these tech videos and watch them even if I can’t use the product on my rig.
Glad you enjoy them.
Clear and simply explained as always.
Glad you liked it
Great video Jake.... I'm going install one of these on my truck thanks again Jake
Right on!
I go off roading with a 1991 s10 blazer. It has the 4.3, which has the deep oil pan (to clear the front diff from factory) and I haven’t lost oil pressure on steep angles yet, and neither has bleepinjeep, so this really only applies to shallow pans
It is good insurance if you ever roll over though
Awesome explanation!!!
Thanks. We tried to make it as short and concise as possible.
Great video, if your running an oil cooler how would you recommend the plumbing of the accumulator? Thanks
Hey Jake,
Could you do a in depth video on cooling systems for rigs, sizes for different applications, all fluids, and parts recommended.
good idea!
Great info. Back drop looks good too
We are trying to step up our lighting game with these videos. Glad someone noticed!
Its been on my mind to. Lot more to cool videos than just good info. 👍
Truth.
Thanks Jake!
Glad to help!
I would try to run the dry sump system from a corvette....I assume that would cure a lot of oiling issues. I imagine they aren't cheap.
complicated and expensive. These things work just fine.
What size hose do you typically use to plumb this using AN fittings and hose? Also how would I go about installing an accumulator like this on a jeep 4.0 engine? I'm guessing the 1/8 NPT pressure sensor hole is too small to tap into? So maybe a sandwich plate at the oil filter or do you have any recommendations for a 4.0? It's plumbed using 1 hose tapped into the oil system right? and when or if pressure is lost it releases its contents into the engine buying a little time?
I'm very interested in installing one of these on my jeep I'm just trying to think of where to plumb it on the engine, I don't really want to run a sandwich plate if I don't have to. I already added an extra 1/8 npt port for my oil temp sensor next to the oil pressure sensor its a little crowded, depending on the hose size I think I'd have to go straight to the block at the larger thread where an oem adapter usually is that reduces it from 3/8 or 1/4 npt to the little 1/8 thread.
We use an10 size hose
So I have one concern. What about the fact that oil pressure is slower at idle than at revs.... When you rev up it would take more time for the pressure to rise? Also do you check your oil level and close the valve at idle or at higher rpm??? I am asking this because I want one for my daihatsu feroza :)
None of those are issues with this setup.
Busted Knuckle is right. Add this system. Your questions; Slow RPM’s require lower volume, resulting in less pressure. No volume, no pressure, just like fuel pressure.
Run engine at good oil pressure range, shut tank off. Check oil. Oil pan holds oil and accumulator as well. A running engine has oil in lifters, inside heads, cam & crank sling oil up, oil running down the block & thru return holes.
This accumulator saves a volume of oil to keep any pressure to the rotating mass to prevent failure. It is your choice. I have a solenoid operated accumulator on the 3 cars, motorcycle and convertible I don’t drive often. After decades of working on these and seeing bearing wear on crank, cam and rockers.
Catch cans work well also. The 113k LS engine from my son’s Tahoe had valve tip wear on the the evacuation side, while the other side was inlet fresh air, I was convinced!
ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired.
Love this series
1.75" DOM tubing made in USA
@@BustedKnuckleOffRoad thanks 👊
Anytime.
Do you have a video of the Electric one ?
sure don't
I started to understand @ 10:25 onwards 🙂
there is a lot to it
How do you feel about the electric solenoid valves on an accumulator?
They are ok, but it is just one more thing to fail. We prefer the simpler more reliable manual ones.
Hi jake can i ask you some questions what transfer case do you use and what is the best and taf transfer case for you.
Atlas
Hi jake could you tell me what is the transfer case do you use ang what is the best transfer case for buggys
Atlas
Does the billet block work on the 4.3 vortec?
Possibly
Good video. But I think I can hear camera person breathing? Lol
Yeah it was 100 degrees in the shop making me breathe hard. It's hot down here in Alabama with all the doors closed so you can't hear all the passing traffic.
@@BustedKnuckleOffRoad makes sense. Was just giving a sound check.😉