Who's using an Accusump and did you fit it before or after oil starvation issues had an argument with your bank account? - Taz. Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all inclusive VIP package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy48 50% OFF your first engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery48 TIME STAMPS: 0:00 - Oil Starvation: This Kills Engines 0:22 - Accusump History 1:01 - What Is An Accusump? 1:35 - Installation 2:13 - Hose Sizing 2:40 - How It Works 3:26 - Manual Ball Valve Activation 4:06 - Electronic Valve 4:46 - Pressurisation/Pre Charge 5:38 - How Long Protection Lasts? 6:28 - Pre-Oiling Function 7:25 - Rough Pricing 8:28 - @cantonracingproducts 8:45 - BUILD.TUNE.DRIVE
I had one on my car for two seasons and it never went off. Oil pressure logging shows that the pressure never came close to dropping enough for it to be needed. The main benefit I saw was with pre-oiling the car before start up but when you really need that is after an oil change. Pre-filling them is far more awkward than it really should be for that purpose though.
It isn't as good a having dry sump. But it is a LOT better than having nothing! Run bearings twice on a race 4AGE before fitting it, didn't get the same issue after. The extra oil sloshing round the engine can cause different issues, as can the slight drop in normal running pressure if your oil pump is already on it's limit. Pre-oiling facility is handy!
It's pretty simple insurance for those of us with classic cars and street machines, to prevent dry-start for a car that isn't used daily. Planning on adding one to a VC Valiant that's had a big brakes upgrade and can stop hard enough to cause oil starvation.
As a previous Accusump user I can say that if oil pressure is lost and the Accusump discharges towards the oil filter without a check valve it will mangle the oil filter anti-drainback valve and may not provide enough oil to the engine to keep the bearings happy. You really do need to pair the Accusump with an oil filter relocation and check valve.
Used one of these in a car powered by a motorcycle engine. An RPM switch would arm it above 3000 rpm and a pressure switch would activate the electric valve if the pressure dropped. Also had a toggle switch connected to the valve to use as a pre-oiler for startup. Held pressure just fine while the car was in winter storage. Great product!
I have an "rpm x oil pressure" table in my haltech that will open the accumulator when pressure at a particular rpm falls below the given value. Very easy to setup and change on the fly with a laptop. I also have a bypass wire with a momentary switch so I can oil the engine manually before I start it, although if I wired the starter to be controlled by the haltech this could be automated as well ^_^
In this setup with the accumulator only being discharged at certain rpm and oil pressure values, is it possible for “cold/thick” oil to be introduced when required? Or is there a small circulation through the accumulator with the engine running? Keeping the accumulator oil similar to the engine oil temperature? Engine bay mounting may help warm the oil somewhat also I imagine. Obviously cold oil is better than none though!
In reality, an Accusump is better than a dry sump under certain conditions. For example, if you flip the car on its side in an offroad application, there's a possibility that not even a dry sump will be able to get any fluid from the tank. Look at the crazy things that Monster trucks do. I remember when they used to run over cars very slowly. Now they do backflips, jump higher than the power lines, and do donuts on two wheels. Really, if you have a really big accusump, it's a very effective system. An Accusump will actually work upside down.
Accusumps do work ! I have a lot of friends doing regular trackdays. It seems to work perfectly and theres a few youtube channels which how it maintaims pressure on track vs without! Its a few hundred dollars but wayyy cheaper than an engine ! 🤷♂️
Put one of these on my SR 180 after my first few track days. Works wonders with the extended sump and oil cooler and I no longer see pressure drops which were common when I came into the pits after a hard run around the circuit.
Great video. I appreciate your clear interview style and good audio. 👍 I've been looking into these for track day use, just to cover the oil sloshes out reach of the pickup for a few seconds.
An accumulater is not a dry sump substitute its a failsafe device and a pre oiler nothing more, dry sump systems address completely different problems and performance requirements.
Nobody said it was a dry sump system...it was inferred that it's a system that LIKE a dry sump, keeps your engine full of oil under conditions that one might feel they need a dry sump oiling system for.....
It fills up using the oil pressure and you will need to continue to fill it up until it's topped off and your sump is also topped off , you are NOT driving your car at this point since its the first time filling it and it only fills your motor if there is a pressure drop and won't over fill because if there is normal pressure then it's not adding any oil and the oil it adds goes directly into the oil ports not the sump so it won't over fill also once pressure gets back to normal it starts to fill again so again no extra oil will be added to the sump
How does the Accusump work? the 1-2 liters of oil in the tank can save the engine, but the 1-2 liters of extra oil needs to fit in the engine or the crank will hit all that extra oil in the sump from the accusump. The pressures needs to be balanced for the sump to not overflow or is there electronics or valves to prevent the sump from overflowing?
This doesn't add any extra unwanted oil pressure noting it is adding oil when your oil pressure is low, not when everything is spot on. It then refills as your oil pressure returns, not while it is still low. The instructions cover some aspects we didn't touch on in this interview if you're interested - www.cantonracingproducts.com/accusump-accumulator-turbo-oiler-tech/ - Taz.
Hm, perhaps i should get one, a dry sump is not very expensive for my car, but I would have to give up aircon which I'm not too keen on 😅 But trying to fit everything in my already extremely crammed engine bay is going to get tricky, because I also still need to add a methanol tank somewhere
Theoretically closer is better. The longer hose to have it in the trunk is oil that ever actually gets used. Imagine you have the 3 quart unit. And you have long enough hose to hold one quart. When starting each time, or in oil loss situation- the 3 quarts in the unit will empty into the line as the piston moves. But the line from the unit to the engine stays full, even if your oil pan falls off. So the oil in the hose is really never used. Then it is more wasted every time you change your oil. Even so, you will find people who mounted it clear at the rear…🤷♂️ - the unit is aluminum so you don’t want it near the exhaust system where that heat gets transferred into the oil. You don’t want it hanging low where something could hit it. Other than that- no biggie.
Not sure I follow. This goes on the pressure side. They have some instructions that are very clear and run through a few options if that helps you wrap your head around things further - www.cantonracingproducts.com/accusump-accumulator-turbo-oiler-tech/ - Taz.
The issue with RBs is that at extendes high RPM use the oil stays in the head and the rotating assembly is starved of oil. The head needs oil restrictors installed to combat this issue, but an accusump could help.
@@rhubarbpie2027 I'm just gonna keep it simple and have a full build done by RIPS, they know what is needed for a given power figure to be reliable. I already have quite a lot of parts but I have decided to leave some of the finer details up to their discretion. Aiming for a reliable 500hp setup from an RB25
Would rather just have electronic oilpump opposite side of the mechanical one. You can have oil pressure before engine even turns. Accusump provides 10 seconds thats nothing for some cranktimes 😂
I've a possibility dumb idea related to these, it seems to me if the accusump was mounted vertically there'd be no need for the piston, making it a simple pressure chamber with oil coming in the bottom. Second and this is a bit more out there, but after looking at some oil cooler installs with the oil ports at the bottom of the cooler it occurred to me that the oil cooler is almost acting like an accusump, ie oil pressure compressing the air potentially trapped at the top of the cooler. Which then lead me to wonder if we could deliberately take advantage of this by installing valving or a pressure vessel off the top of an oil cooler. Agreed most oil coolers wouldn't have large enough volume but if you had a thermostat on your cooler a larger cooler and more oil volume is not a bad thing. Would it work?
Years ago we had a thing called a 'Turbo Saver' on a truck which was a similar thing to an Accusump but just on the turbo feed. It had no piston and fed from the bottom, it was basically a fire extinguisher bottle mounted upside down. The idea was to feed about a litre of oil into the turbo after the motor shut down (or broke down!)
@buildaboiworkshop no he was talking about the oil feed to the turbo, basically the same reason we used to have turbo timers, your turbo was burning hot before you turn off the engine and cease the flow of coolant and oil so it sits there baking the oil. The pressure reservoir provides a few minutes of oil flow after the engine is turned off cooling the turbo down.
Who's using an Accusump and did you fit it before or after oil starvation issues had an argument with your bank account? - Taz.
Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all inclusive VIP package deal: hpcdmy.co/vipy48
50% OFF your first engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/offery48
TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Oil Starvation: This Kills Engines
0:22 - Accusump History
1:01 - What Is An Accusump?
1:35 - Installation
2:13 - Hose Sizing
2:40 - How It Works
3:26 - Manual Ball Valve Activation
4:06 - Electronic Valve
4:46 - Pressurisation/Pre Charge
5:38 - How Long Protection Lasts?
6:28 - Pre-Oiling Function
7:25 - Rough Pricing
8:28 - @cantonracingproducts
8:45 - BUILD.TUNE.DRIVE
I have been using it for a few years now. On both my race car and daily. 2jz half mile racing and f10 m5 s63
Running one on my SR20 S13 drift car. Wanted the insurance of one after building my motor as a dry sump was out of my budget range.
I had one on my car for two seasons and it never went off. Oil pressure logging shows that the pressure never came close to dropping enough for it to be needed. The main benefit I saw was with pre-oiling the car before start up but when you really need that is after an oil change. Pre-filling them is far more awkward than it really should be for that purpose though.
It isn't as good a having dry sump. But it is a LOT better than having nothing! Run bearings twice on a race 4AGE before fitting it, didn't get the same issue after. The extra oil sloshing round the engine can cause different issues, as can the slight drop in normal running pressure if your oil pump is already on it's limit. Pre-oiling facility is handy!
It's pretty simple insurance for those of us with classic cars and street machines, to prevent dry-start for a car that isn't used daily.
Planning on adding one to a VC Valiant that's had a big brakes upgrade and can stop hard enough to cause oil starvation.
As a previous Accusump user I can say that if oil pressure is lost and the Accusump discharges towards the oil filter without a check valve it will mangle the oil filter anti-drainback valve and may not provide enough oil to the engine to keep the bearings happy. You really do need to pair the Accusump with an oil filter relocation and check valve.
That advice is included in the very detailed instructions included in the kit. They’re simple systems and easy to install.
The check valve is key. It's surprising how many people don't install one. It's in the manual. 😅
Also great for engine longevity in regards to cold starts for sub zero climates.
Used one of these in a car powered by a motorcycle engine. An RPM switch would arm it above 3000 rpm and a pressure switch would activate the electric valve if the pressure dropped. Also had a toggle switch connected to the valve to use as a pre-oiler for startup. Held pressure just fine while the car was in winter storage. Great product!
@xzivr4894 how'd it work out and how hard are you cornering ?
As a GR86 owner this may be the step I need to take before finally pushing it to the limits without the worry about taking a right hand turn too hard.
We did some testing on our channel on the BRZ / GR86 which has been documented with severe oil pressure drops on hard right hand corners.
You can link to the video on that here if you want to, we don't mind 😎 - Taz.
I have an "rpm x oil pressure" table in my haltech that will open the accumulator when pressure at a particular rpm falls below the given value. Very easy to setup and change on the fly with a laptop. I also have a bypass wire with a momentary switch so I can oil the engine manually before I start it, although if I wired the starter to be controlled by the haltech this could be automated as well ^_^
Sounds like you just need the G-sensor now :)
This is the way...
In this setup with the accumulator only being discharged at certain rpm and oil pressure values, is it possible for “cold/thick” oil to be introduced when required?
Or is there a small circulation through the accumulator with the engine running? Keeping the accumulator oil similar to the engine oil temperature? Engine bay mounting may help warm the oil somewhat also I imagine.
Obviously cold oil is better than none though!
In reality, an Accusump is better than a dry sump under certain conditions. For example, if you flip the car on its side in an offroad application, there's a possibility that not even a dry sump will be able to get any fluid from the tank. Look at the crazy things that Monster trucks do. I remember when they used to run over cars very slowly. Now they do backflips, jump higher than the power lines, and do donuts on two wheels. Really, if you have a really big accusump, it's a very effective system. An Accusump will actually work upside down.
We were using an Accusump in 1982, and it was second hand. So well over 40 years ago. It worked well for what we were doing at the time.
Accusumps do work ! I have a lot of friends doing regular trackdays. It seems to work perfectly and theres a few youtube channels which how it maintaims pressure on track vs without! Its a few hundred dollars but wayyy cheaper than an engine ! 🤷♂️
Put one of these on my SR 180 after my first few track days. Works wonders with the extended sump and oil cooler and I no longer see pressure drops which were common when I came into the pits after a hard run around the circuit.
Great video. I appreciate your clear interview style and good audio. 👍 I've been looking into these for track day use, just to cover the oil sloshes out reach of the pickup for a few seconds.
Could be useful on a ford ranger 3.2 that refuses to prime its oil pump after an oil change. I’m assuming it works by feeding oil into the oil pump.
An accumulater is not a dry sump substitute its a failsafe device and a pre oiler nothing more, dry sump systems address completely different problems and performance requirements.
Nobody said it was a dry sump system...it was inferred that it's a system that LIKE a dry sump, keeps your engine full of oil under conditions that one might feel they need a dry sump oiling system for.....
I feel like the only way to properly deploy one of these is with an RPM window switch with oil pressure reference.
How does it fill up at first? How do you keep it from over filling the engine?
It fills up using the oil pressure and you will need to continue to fill it up until it's topped off and your sump is also topped off , you are NOT driving your car at this point since its the first time filling it and it only fills your motor if there is a pressure drop and won't over fill because if there is normal pressure then it's not adding any oil and the oil it adds goes directly into the oil ports not the sump so it won't over fill also once pressure gets back to normal it starts to fill again so again no extra oil will be added to the sump
A check valve prevents the system from flowing back into the crankcase.
How does the Accusump work? the 1-2 liters of oil in the tank can save the engine, but the 1-2 liters of extra oil needs to fit in the engine or the crank will hit all that extra oil in the sump from the accusump.
The pressures needs to be balanced for the sump to not overflow or is there electronics or valves to prevent the sump from overflowing?
This doesn't add any extra unwanted oil pressure noting it is adding oil when your oil pressure is low, not when everything is spot on. It then refills as your oil pressure returns, not while it is still low.
The instructions cover some aspects we didn't touch on in this interview if you're interested - www.cantonracingproducts.com/accusump-accumulator-turbo-oiler-tech/ - Taz.
Hm, perhaps i should get one, a dry sump is not very expensive for my car, but I would have to give up aircon which I'm not too keen on 😅 But trying to fit everything in my already extremely crammed engine bay is going to get tricky, because I also still need to add a methanol tank somewhere
I mean removing the a/c would also free up room right....😅 - Taz.
What setup with accusump (valve type, capacity etc.) would be ideal for a turbocharged 2013 Toyota 86 that is daily driven and taken to drift events?
Best to have a chat to your local supplier, they'll get you sorted - Taz.
Call them up. They’re pretty helpful with sorting out what you need.
What about distance from engine ?
Theoretically closer is better. The longer hose to have it in the trunk is oil that ever actually gets used. Imagine you have the 3 quart unit. And you have long enough hose to hold one quart. When starting each time, or in oil loss situation- the 3 quarts in the unit will empty into the line as the piston moves. But the line from the unit to the engine stays full, even if your oil pan falls off.
So the oil in the hose is really never used.
Then it is more wasted every time you change your oil.
Even so, you will find people who mounted it clear at the rear…🤷♂️
- the unit is aluminum so you don’t want it near the exhaust system where that heat gets transferred into the oil. You don’t want it hanging low where something could hit it.
Other than that- no biggie.
But if your oil pump is sucking air/oil mix, the pressure does not drop and so it doesnt help?
Not sure I follow. This goes on the pressure side. They have some instructions that are very clear and run through a few options if that helps you wrap your head around things further - www.cantonracingproducts.com/accusump-accumulator-turbo-oiler-tech/ - Taz.
Oil starvation killing engines?
The oil pump is the biggest enemy of an RB, perhaps I should look into one of these.
The issue with RBs is that at extendes high RPM use the oil stays in the head and the rotating assembly is starved of oil. The head needs oil restrictors installed to combat this issue, but an accusump could help.
@@rhubarbpie2027 I'm just gonna keep it simple and have a full build done by RIPS, they know what is needed for a given power figure to be reliable. I already have quite a lot of parts but I have decided to leave some of the finer details up to their discretion.
Aiming for a reliable 500hp setup from an RB25
We did a back to back test with an Accusump on our BRZ on track in our video. :) ruclips.net/video/3YijBO_gS7Y/видео.html
This guys hair looks exactly like mine, right after I wake up after 12hours of good sleep, and I do absolutely nothing with it.
have you considered a hair net?
Would rather just have electronic oilpump opposite side of the mechanical one. You can have oil pressure before engine even turns.
Accusump provides 10 seconds thats nothing for some cranktimes 😂
@@DNANDROID if you still have no oil pressure from your oil pump after 10sec of cranking, you've got bigger problems than an accusump can solve.
I've a possibility dumb idea related to these, it seems to me if the accusump was mounted vertically there'd be no need for the piston, making it a simple pressure chamber with oil coming in the bottom. Second and this is a bit more out there, but after looking at some oil cooler installs with the oil ports at the bottom of the cooler it occurred to me that the oil cooler is almost acting like an accusump, ie oil pressure compressing the air potentially trapped at the top of the cooler. Which then lead me to wonder if we could deliberately take advantage of this by installing valving or a pressure vessel off the top of an oil cooler. Agreed most oil coolers wouldn't have large enough volume but if you had a thermostat on your cooler a larger cooler and more oil volume is not a bad thing. Would it work?
Yes you can install an oil reservoir onto your engine. That’s exactly what this is. A pressurized oil reservoir. Helps keep your engine alive.
Years ago we had a thing called a 'Turbo Saver' on a truck which was a similar thing to an Accusump but just on the turbo feed. It had no piston and fed from the bottom, it was basically a fire extinguisher bottle mounted upside down.
The idea was to feed about a litre of oil into the turbo after the motor shut down (or broke down!)
@buildaboiworkshop no he was talking about the oil feed to the turbo, basically the same reason we used to have turbo timers, your turbo was burning hot before you turn off the engine and cease the flow of coolant and oil so it sits there baking the oil. The pressure reservoir provides a few minutes of oil flow after the engine is turned off cooling the turbo down.
I like it For Daily..
Second
First?
I could make this for £50
Why haven't you? - Taz.
@@hpa101 I don't need one, it's only a pressurised hydraulic ram if I did tho local forklifts wouldn't be safe 😉😂
@BoostedMike go on, the old you would have 😂 - Taz.
You've changed mike
I can make your mum do a lot of things for 50 £