What happened to the Viking? A Vision of hard life - Vintage Bicycle Restoration
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- Опубликовано: 19 апр 2019
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Yes, I have just dug out the Viking. It’s been sat in the back of the garage for a while and now, the whole Vision of it’s hard life is going to be revealed....
It’s in such a mess. 
Развлечения
I take my hat off to you for your perseverance. I have a 1962 Severn Valley that I got new as a young teenager. I thought it was long gone having given it to my daughters then boyfriend. My son has just discovered it in a shed at his mothers, so I have asked him to get it back for me. It hasn't been used since the mid 80s, and so your video is going to be extremely useful to decide whether it is worth restoring.
I'd so give it a go!. Got to be worth saving your old bike.
These videos you've made on the Viking are exactly what I needed to help me with my bicycle restoration.
I've never done anything but changed tire tubes on bicycles and absolutely nothing about what to do and after browsing RUclips for good videos I feel like these are the most helpful.
Much appreciated!
Great videos!
Keep up the good work!
I actually like the Burnt look, I find it adds character.
Aww man, sad, no dice, very frustrating, at least you got some class components, and Torvi made a cameo which is always great!
Everyone loves Torvi. 😻
‘You can’t win them all’ is spot on. I damaged a seat tube removing a seized post, could have cried at the time lol, but you just have to let some go.
Love your work, look forward to communicating
Ive put a fork (wrapped in a thick towel) in a vise and just got it snug and was able to twist a seized stem out
Fantastic vids pal 👍
This reminds me of my Viking bicycle except mine wasn’t rusty at all and the chrome was in decent condition except the wheels
Though I would be interested in your Viking and I will pay for it
Nice bike though...hard luck. Maybe look out for another one and bring back the golden yellow paint job!
If you can get some vertical movement in the seat post and the steering stem by placing some soft wood on top and a good sharp blow with a hammer sometimes they will break free. Sometimes.
I use water with liquid detergent and sandpaper to clean some rust :)
Rust and paint must have held that frame together. Oh well, you win some, you lose some. There are always more bikes that need love.
Could you weld that crack, paint up the frame and use it as an indoor Winter trainer?
Sure, that'd work
You know, before you even started spreading the rear stays I could see the drive side drop out was twisted. Shame it was cracked too! You could get it welded but is it worth it? At the end of the day you've got to think of the cost.
I’m always thinking about the cost unfortunately. I know I could fix everything. It’d be great to fix everything. I’d probably end up making a loss though as this bike would be for sale 😞
it started out sketchy. Don't feel bad. Keep the parts for another day.
You win some you lose some, but overall a good video
Plenty of frames out there man. I would be nervous putting heat next to those brazed joints.
Definitely plenty of frames out there. There’s quite a few in my garage already 😂 unfortunately most are ladies bikes.
Not easy to see without "Eyeing" the frame from square behind but the rear drop outs looked slightly bent in, if so this maybe why the drop out cracked, with the wheel in it would have been constantly sprung straight, the road shocks while riding it eventually causing the crack.
The only way that rust is certain to be removed is media blasting and in the area's of deep pitting the question then would be how much strength remains in the tube ?
rather than winching the drop outs further apart would it be better to change the washers / spacers on the axle ? that's of course if you have some other washers / spacers in your random parts bin. ( every mechanic needs a large box of randomness to sift through when you need that certain something..... )
Yeh that dropout doesn’t look right. Even before I found the crack I’d seemed ‘off’. I don’t think the rust is bad enough to be structural but it’s hard to tell. I’ve had a steel frame snap on me before - I was lucky I was at a standstill though and just pulling away.
@@MonkeyShred Been having a think about this Viking and I'm not sure it is made of special tubing. Normally a quality frame has forged drop outs because pressed steel ones can crack, the badly aligned bottle cage bosses point to the frame being assemble on a standard production line. The answer is the internal diameter of the seat tube ( or diameter of the seat post that came out of it ) The outside of the tube had to remain the same diameter to fit the lugs etc, so as the metal got better and thus thinner the inner diameter increased, normal steel is an 1 inch or 25.4mm, Crome-moly tubes were around 26.5mm and Reynolds 531 is 27.2mm.
One interesting thing from 'back in the day' was adverts in cycling magazines for Reynolds tubing, the included images of the tubing badges, unfortunately due to the size of the advert in some magazines these badge images came out at almost correct size, I remember one in the cycling club cutting out a 531 badge and sticking it on his cheap hack bicycle as a joke, wonder if the unscrupulous did this for gain ?
I think the bottle cage mount was added at a later date. The original brochure is here: veterancycleclublibrary.org.uk/ncl/pics/Viking%20catalogue%201980v2%20(V-CC%20Library).pdf
The frame tubing should be 531 (main tubes) though. The seat post is a larger diameter, although not quite 27.2 and the original advert states 531 to match.
I'm no expert ,far from it .But doesn't heating the frame tubes like that take the temper out of the steel ? i tryed it once when i was a lad on a brazed frame went a bit mad with the blowlamp cos i did'nt know any better and melted the joints .DER lol.At some point could you please show us how you protect the threads when you send a frame off to the blaster/powder coater . i realy enjoy watching you restoreing those old bikes .Each time it's one less car on the road and a saved piece of history ..well done ;-)
Put old cups in the bb so you dont waste time with masking it
I think Reynolds 753 was the first frame set to have tempered tubes.
Exactly as George says. I put old cups in the BB to save the threads and old bolts everywhere else. The place I use are pretty good though and mask everything thoroughly anyway.
Viewer competition, restore the Viking frame. Everyone does one thing.
What a shame. I was looking forward to seeing this build but I guess sometimes you have to know when to let go of a knackered frame....... Really interesting though to see how you manage to get seized up components off the bike....
I think I've done a video before on that but I am going to use the busted stem as an example of the caustic soda method.
Can you do a how to make a fixed gear bike
I thinking he could try to make this into a fixed gear.
This could be made in to a fixie...
The win is getting those components and not being a kook about restoring that frame. And then taking that frame to the scrap yard--and perhaps rounding up some other frames and wheels and such.
It'd be nice to find some good frames in a scrap pile! I've yet to be that lucky!
@@MonkeyShred Neither have I, but on a couple of occasions, the guys at the scrap yard have told me that if I ever happen to see anything in their pile of scrap that day, they'd let me buy 'em at the metal price.
Mark, do you have a disposable email for correspondence?
Thanks for your videos.
I don't at the moment. I'll have to set one up.
That rh drop out looks a bit crooked
Spotted the problem
Yup. Crooked and cracked.
The seat post can be removed a lot easier by wedging the opening with pounding a flat blade screw driver after the bolt is removed .
That can only be done so much. That seat post was heavily bonded in there. I had to use a cheat bar on the pipe wrench to twist it free 😒
What a shame you did the right thing. Scrap it, its not what you or i want to do but some times you have no choice.
Where to begin?
To remove Galled Alloy using heat, you should heat the Alloy and not the Painted surfaces.
Also, Important Safety Note. Don't use Heat in the Vicinity of Flammables! Ever!
A lot of Garages, Sheds and Houses have been Destroyed that way.
The metal once heated will change Temper if it's Quenched. If, it's allowed to Cool normally, it should keep the same Temper. But, like I said, you don't need to Heat the Steel anyway. Just don't spray it. Or, Quench it. Just let it Cool.😎
Stripping the paint. Cleaning all of the rust out of the Pitted metal. Then, Priming and using Body Filler will get a smooth surface for Painting. I'm not sure if it would tolerate Powder Coating.
Anyway, Good Luck.🍀 Because, all of those methods are Labor Intensive.
And don't run with scissors.
What about running with knives?
Thanks Bullwhip. I do watch a bit of Alec Steele and his forging and tempering etc but to be honest, I don’t understand completely what’s changing. I have a basic grasp but always more to learn! On a side note... also don’t try and use a blowtorch to heat up car wax that’s clumped together. It’s very flammable 😂
Auto focus camera
I’d love a new camera. And a decent lens.
@@MonkeyShred , RJ must have a Pepsi product placement deal, couldn't Twinings come to the party?
I prefer Yorkshire tea :)