This may help someone Before you replace your board. A question for you. !!! Are your display lights and numbers fidgeting ? If the are replace the display first. Its much cheaper than the board about $115 vs $400. If not try this also my own pool did this. I put an old board in that I had replaced the thermistor in. After a new aftermarket board lasted 2 days. I was confused about the salt level numbers saying 2.7 and red lights were on after 30 seconds or so. Turns out I needed to check all my settings. It was in metric was set for t-3 cell mine is t-15 and had to calibrate the salt level. I have a hand held electronic salt meter and it’s normally very close to the Hayward reading. I had to toggle it from off to auto a few times to get it to start counting down like you’ve seen in calibration videos then flip it up to super chlorinate and back to auto to hold the setting. But now lights are green and everything it good in the pool.
Used this upload to change my own circuit board. I recommend taking a photo of the wiring and/or drawing a picture of what wire goes where. The grey wire looks a lot like the white wire in direct sunlight. IMPORTANT: Before inserting the flow sensor and the salt cell plug, make sure the system is calibrated to the t-cell / chlorine generator you are using. The factory defaults this to T-30 (i think). There are directions on how to scroll through the factory presets on the circuit board to match up with your T-cell Aside from that, it is as easy as it looks.
It should just be plug and play, provided you are using a T-15 size salt cell. You shouldn't need to re-calibrate the brand new PCB, however if it is giving you a strange reading the option to re-calibrate the board is there.
@@averageelite9935 some boards like the one in this video only work with t-15 cells, other boards may have programming available to make them compatible with other size cells as well.
I did this while replacing new board,a digital reading of 2800 comes on which I read is set at factory,but no lights come on for power or flow or any of those,what is wrong,if no power then the digital read out should not work I would think
Hi! If you have installed a brand-new PCB and are able to get display but no lights, then you may have configured the PCB with for little power. To best assist you, please contact our office directly at 951-268-4212. We can walk you through the steps. -Pool Guy Supply
Good video. Much more thorough and realistic than InyoPools video. Thanks.
Hayward support stinks you guys rock!!! Ill be calling for a new board today!!!
This may help someone
Before you replace your board. A question for you. !!! Are your display lights and numbers fidgeting ? If the are replace the display first. Its much cheaper than the board about $115 vs $400. If not try this also my own pool did this.
I put an old board in that I had replaced the thermistor in. After a new aftermarket board lasted 2 days.
I was confused about the salt level numbers saying 2.7 and red lights were on after 30 seconds or so.
Turns out I needed to check all my settings. It was in metric was set for t-3 cell mine is t-15 and had to calibrate the salt level. I have a hand held electronic salt meter and it’s normally very close to the Hayward reading. I had to toggle it from off to auto a few times to get it to start counting down like you’ve seen in calibration videos then flip it up to super chlorinate and back to auto to hold the setting. But now lights are green and everything it good in the pool.
I replaced the aqua rite with a GLX-PCB-RITE board, it gives me a HOT Code. What can I do?
Where can i get a new control box. Mine is all rusted out. i had already replaced the board so i only need the box. Thank you Dennis
Hi Dennis, unfortunately it does not appear that the manufacturer does not offer the metal box separate from the rest of the salt system.
Used this upload to change my own circuit board. I recommend taking a photo of the wiring and/or drawing a picture of what wire goes where. The grey wire looks a lot like the white wire in direct sunlight.
IMPORTANT: Before inserting the flow sensor and the salt cell plug, make sure the system is calibrated to the t-cell / chlorine generator you are using. The factory defaults this to T-30 (i think). There are directions on how to scroll through the factory presets on the circuit board to match up with your T-cell
Aside from that, it is as easy as it looks.
So no calibration needed on a new board? It just turns on and is good to go?
It should just be plug and play, provided you are using a T-15 size salt cell. You shouldn't need to re-calibrate the brand new PCB, however if it is giving you a strange reading the option to re-calibrate the board is there.
@@PoolGuySupply forgive my ignorance.... So there is a specific board to each cell?
@@averageelite9935 some boards like the one in this video only work with t-15 cells, other boards may have programming available to make them compatible with other size cells as well.
I did this while replacing new board,a digital reading of 2800 comes on which I read is set at factory,but no lights come on for power or flow or any of those,what is wrong,if no power then the digital read out should not work I would think
Hi! If you have installed a brand-new PCB and are able to get display but no lights, then you may have configured the PCB with for little power. To best assist you, please contact our office directly at 951-268-4212. We can walk you through the steps.
-Pool Guy Supply
Where can I order the board if I’m in Canada
Hi there, we ship this item to Canada as well as the United States. The item can be found here: poolguysupply.com/products/pcb-h-aqr. Hope this helps!
What to do when brand new board is in. Still t15 cell will not work
It depends on what error messages your panel is showing. Feel free to contact Pool Guy Supply by phone or email for tech support!
Watch out electric static ! Ouch...