My 3D printing farm includes 6 FLSUN T1s, 8 T1 Pros, and 5 Flashforge 5Ms. Over the past two months, they have generated $8,000 in revenue. For anyone in the 3D printing business, the noise level of the T1 and T1 Pro is completely acceptable.
I have been keeping my eyes on the T1 & s1 Hopefully it works well🤞 Id like to pick one up Did it have any kind of update out of the Box? Just curious if they are addressing any Issues people have been having 🤔
My 3D printing farm includes 6 FLSUN T1s, 8 T1 Pros, and 5 Flashforge 5Ms. Over the past two months, they have generated $8,000 in revenue. For anyone in the 3D printing business, the noise level of the T1 and T1 Pro is completely acceptable. My T1 and T1 Pro have been running very smoothly and consistently.
To me the only purpose of the skirt is to purge some filament in case there is some of the previous color left over. I like it for that and also to tell if I have it located right. Another thing is to check that the bed is leveled and it sticks all around.
Try printing the hippo skull with the back of the skull facing the build plate. It'll have more support at the start, but almost none along it's height.
I always add extra supports on small tips like teeth and stuff so that it wraps around the tip more to support it. I have had issues so much printing stuff like that if I don't.
For some reason, sometimes my bed adhesion doesn't need anything and sometimes I need to use ALL the tricks to get good adhesion. Never went through the trouble of trying to figure it out. I just roll with it.
The skulls are pretty cool. That FLS is mind boggling amazing….I would love one of those. Hopefully they send me one for my channel at one point this year.
Hey Matt, glad to see your experiencing the t1 pro fun! I will warn you, I don't believe that the T1 Pro is setup for exotic materials as its not using hardened steel gearing and that, I believe they purposely put that into the S1 Pro since it requires more heat on hot end and plate + chamber. You may be able to do it, but it will probably destroy the hot end quickly. You BL P1(?) can get a hardened extruder setup fully done easily, but I haven't seen a way to get the T1 Pro setup for that yet. Just my limited understanding of it. Keep at it.
Agree. I have the T1 Pro as well. I'm sticking to vanilla filaments like PLA, PETG and the likes. I let my MK4S do the rest - also because it's easier to take apart and print spare parts for.
oh yeah i forgot to post in the previous vid but just wanted to let you know that most people are getting away with making and selling marvel and pokemon prints because their calling them "fanart" and right now atleast in my state there is not a law against "fanart" but i guess it is up for debate on what falls under "fan art"
I design, so prototyping is part of the process. So from my CR10 to Bambu, I went from 17hrs down to under 4hrs. That changed my workflow and productivity to amazing and with better quality in draft mode.
The purpose if a skirt is just to make sure your print head is primed with filament before you start the print, stops the 1st few millimeters of print not being fully printed (looks like under extrusion) at the very start of the print. Keep going loving the way your running the business and your thinking on printing projects.
can you drop a link to the designer that made the character model your talking about and printing in this vid? id like to check out her work and maybe buy a few models
@@aetherguy881 ya, they both are...i think skirts are printed with the same extrusion values as the main print while the prime line has a higher extrusion rate
Do the red layer first with the raised fills. Print the black, blue and white as the top layers, Just like you uesed the white eyes to lock it in use the red instead.
Skirts are to prime the nozzle and get a consistent flow going and then cut the travel to the start of the print to give you the best start possible. Idealy the primeline should be for this, however some filaments "leak" too much from the primeline (such as PETG) and the nozzle can then collect them and cause problems later on. While I have gone from 3 loops to 1 for PLA, I still do 3 loops for PETG and get fantastic results. Everything works differently for different people, so this is what works for me.
you best printing with a brim inner and outer works wounders and put some 3dlac ie spray verison i have a P1s combo, creailty K2 Combo, A1 combo, flsun T1 Pro this printer doe's not print at 1000ms max is 800ms, tilt the print at a 45 degree i would put in manual supports in the teeth
I really appreciate your efforts! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
Looks down and points at the bin full of rubbish and plastic scraps then says, "looks like I need to make a trip to the ocean here soon"..... I see what you did there... Y'all earned my sub!! 😂😂😂
Matt, maybe print the skull with the spine side down and the mouth at the top. I think it will prevent all the scarring and provide a nice finish if done in a matte like the desert tan.
The technique is to print each Spiderman color as a separate model - but don't remove them until they all are printed. Adjust Z HOP in your slicer to a height taller than the models' top layer height, and the nozzle won't touch the existing models/colors as it's printing the current one. Easy if there are only 3 or 4 colors.
I'm not restricted or compelled to say anything other than showing the printer and my experience with it. They didn't give me any money, but they did give me the printer. Some would consider the printer as comp, but I really don't but if you do, it's totally understandable. They wanted a dedicated video, told them I don't do that since i'm a vlog. They said OK!
Listen to people with the same machine as you, some of these people are spouting off their settings on their ender 3, settings that people used five to 10 years ago may not work on a today printer, and most of these people are using a different slicer like cura which is inferior to orca, why not get the Co print complete head replacement for multi color for the giga............. And for models like the Spider-Man model if you already have it in different parts then take each part and make them a specific millimeter like make the black 3mm then make the blue 4 or 5mm and then make the red 6mm and then grab all the stl's import them into orca at the same time and say yes import as one model boom done, and if it doesn't work then start moving around until you get it together perfectly and then hit assemble.
forget the people that dont like the character models if they dont like them they dont have to buy them or look at them the can forward through it just do you man everyone is way to concerned with what other people do in their own lives these days but anyway love the vids man and keep up the hard work prints are looking good
I use a 4 loop skirt on every print. It primes the nozzle to make sure flow is consistent once the print starts. Before I had a proper filament dryer, when I would print things out of PETG in particular, the skirt is was one way to minimize risk of my print failing or being ugly from poor extrusion.
@@michaelbraaten There is almost no instance where a skirt is better than a nose wipe. The amount of priming you need is proportional to your printer, not your print. Meanwhile you have chosen a priming mechanism that is proportional to your print. So you're just overshooting the priming requirement every time when, again, the amount is usually pretty fixed. On top of that, since the skirt is now literally surrounding your print object, if there are any malfunctions with the skirt, it's much trickier to remove mid-print. A nose wipe sits on the edge and if necessary is easy to remove mid-print. *"Extra few mm of filament to make sure the print is looking its best"* can just as easily, more consistently, more accurately, and more quickly be achieved with less risk with a nose wipe... by just adding a few mm to a nose wipe. Skirts are junk. They're what people did before they knew any better.
The T1 Pro is the best choice for farm owners who focus on mass printing toys.
My 3D printing farm includes 6 FLSUN T1s, 8 T1 Pros, and 5 Flashforge 5Ms. Over the past two months, they have generated $8,000 in revenue. For anyone in the 3D printing business, the noise level of the T1 and T1 Pro is completely acceptable.
And which is better and faster, t1/t1pro or FF 5M?
Honestly the fact they don’t thrash any surface they’re on like the bambus is a plus as well
"I live in a house with seven animals and a Puerto Rican wife.... I'm no stranger to noise".....
😂😂😂😂
Been printing with my T1pro for just over a month and I am absolutely loving it.
Thank you. You just helped me buy my next printer. If my wife can sit on it, it can be useful to both of us. She cant say no now.
Love me some Flight of the Concords. Could try printing the skull at more of a 45 degree angle of the top of the skull to the bed.
The one printer every wife will let a man buy!!!! Hahahaha lmao
I have been keeping my eyes on the T1 & s1 Hopefully it works well🤞 Id like to pick one up
Did it have any kind of update out of the Box? Just curious if they are addressing any Issues people have been having 🤔
fw update thats all, so far so good
My 3D printing farm includes 6 FLSUN T1s, 8 T1 Pros, and 5 Flashforge 5Ms. Over the past two months, they have generated $8,000 in revenue. For anyone in the 3D printing business, the noise level of the T1 and T1 Pro is completely acceptable. My T1 and T1 Pro have been running very smoothly and consistently.
To me the only purpose of the skirt is to purge some filament in case there is some of the previous color left over. I like it for that and also to tell if I have it located right. Another thing is to check that the bed is leveled and it sticks all around.
Try printing the hippo skull with the back of the skull facing the build plate. It'll have more support at the start, but almost none along it's height.
I always add extra supports on small tips like teeth and stuff so that it wraps around the tip more to support it. I have had issues so much printing stuff like that if I don't.
For some reason, sometimes my bed adhesion doesn't need anything and sometimes I need to use ALL the tricks to get good adhesion. Never went through the trouble of trying to figure it out. I just roll with it.
The skulls are pretty cool. That FLS is mind boggling amazing….I would love one of those. Hopefully they send me one for my channel at one point this year.
Hey Matt, glad to see your experiencing the t1 pro fun! I will warn you, I don't believe that the T1 Pro is setup for exotic materials as its not using hardened steel gearing and that, I believe they purposely put that into the S1 Pro since it requires more heat on hot end and plate + chamber. You may be able to do it, but it will probably destroy the hot end quickly. You BL P1(?) can get a hardened extruder setup fully done easily, but I haven't seen a way to get the T1 Pro setup for that yet. Just my limited understanding of it. Keep at it.
Agree. I have the T1 Pro as well.
I'm sticking to vanilla filaments like PLA, PETG and the likes.
I let my MK4S do the rest - also because it's easier to take apart and print spare parts for.
I use the skirt as a sort of purge and indicator of proper nozzle height.
oh yeah i forgot to post in the previous vid but just wanted to let you know that most people are getting away with making and selling marvel and pokemon prints because their calling them "fanart" and right now atleast in my state there is not a law against "fanart" but i guess it is up for debate on what falls under "fan art"
I design, so prototyping is part of the process. So from my CR10 to Bambu, I went from 17hrs down to under 4hrs. That changed my workflow and productivity to amazing and with better quality in draft mode.
The purpose if a skirt is just to make sure your print head is primed with filament before you start the print, stops the 1st few millimeters of print not being fully printed (looks like under extrusion) at the very start of the print. Keep going loving the way your running the business and your thinking on printing projects.
Used skirt alot on my old Ender with manual bed level to see if the leveling was good. Never used it on my Prusa MK4 with auto leveling
If you want to use the giga for large printing look into doing rc car and truck bodies in abs or petg ,they sell for good money
can you drop a link to the designer that made the character model your talking about and printing in this vid? id like to check out her work and maybe buy a few models
PressPrint
Good stuff bro. I ordered a T1 Pro for my farm also. I'm excited to jump into that soon.
Skirts are to (supposedly) prime the nozzle and give you an indication of adhesion issues etc.
Isn't that what the prime line is for as well? I've recently removed skirts in my prints.
@@aetherguy881 ya, they both are...i think skirts are printed with the same extrusion values as the main print while the prime line has a higher extrusion rate
That’s what I thought as well but on most of my printers I don’t use one.
Do the red layer first with the raised fills. Print the black, blue and white as the top layers, Just like you uesed the white eyes to lock it in use the red instead.
Skirts are to prime the nozzle and get a consistent flow going and then cut the travel to the start of the print to give you the best start possible. Idealy the primeline should be for this, however some filaments "leak" too much from the primeline (such as PETG) and the nozzle can then collect them and cause problems later on. While I have gone from 3 loops to 1 for PLA, I still do 3 loops for PETG and get fantastic results. Everything works differently for different people, so this is what works for me.
you best printing with a brim inner and outer works wounders and put some 3dlac ie spray verison i have a P1s combo, creailty K2 Combo, A1 combo, flsun T1 Pro this printer doe's not print at 1000ms max is 800ms, tilt the print at a 45 degree i would put in manual supports in the teeth
I really appreciate your efforts! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
I appreciate the Flight of the Conchords shout out... "It's Business Time"!
Just wanna do something special
For all tha ladays in tha wurrrlllddd
Looks down and points at the bin full of rubbish and plastic scraps then says, "looks like I need to make a trip to the ocean here soon".....
I see what you did there...
Y'all earned my sub!! 😂😂😂
Fed some hungry endangered beluga whales earlier, they were quite grateful!
Take a look at Hueforge as an alternate way of printing things like the Spiderman model. Could be interesting.
Print the skull vertical. Just did a deer skull vertical and turned out good
Matt, maybe print the skull with the spine side down and the mouth at the top. I think it will prevent all the scarring and provide a nice finish if done in a matte like the desert tan.
Lmao middle-aged humor always starts with wife jokes
Super tac plates back in stock.
Try printing the skull on the base of the skull
The technique is to print each Spiderman color as a separate model - but don't remove them until they all are printed. Adjust Z HOP in your slicer to a height taller than the models' top layer height, and the nozzle won't touch the existing models/colors as it's printing the current one. Easy if there are only 3 or 4 colors.
What shelves do you have?
The ones in the garage holding filament? They're reprack. The racks for the printers are basic kobalt racks from lowes.
@@TechnicalsTinkers The kobalt racks, thanks
The purpose of the skirt is to prime your nozzle, if you know what I mean.
“And a Puerto Rican wife” sent me 😂😂😂😂 P
LMAO it's a running joke between us. She's whiter than sour cream but if ever given the opportunity for a yuk, she's mail order lol
Are you allowed to release the terms you made this video under if it was sponsored by FLsun?
I'm not restricted or compelled to say anything other than showing the printer and my experience with it. They didn't give me any money, but they did give me the printer. Some would consider the printer as comp, but I really don't but if you do, it's totally understandable. They wanted a dedicated video, told them I don't do that since i'm a vlog. They said OK!
For the hideaway maybe print a fat stack of money model to hide in it.
NICE TRY
Bambu labs A1 does a benchy in 8 minutes on Ludacris mode
Alien skull!!!!!!
T1 pro is a lot quieter if you close the door
I wouldn't exactly call the T1 Pro silent. 😊
Makes me wonder what they did to the non-pro.
Jet engine?
It goes from ear splitting to just ear fracturing. LOL
Steam powered
That plate looks awesome too bad they dont make it in 370 mm.
those are way better than the bambu super tack plates FYI
Listen to people with the same machine as you, some of these people are spouting off their settings on their ender 3, settings that people used five to 10 years ago may not work on a today printer, and most of these people are using a different slicer like cura which is inferior to orca, why not get the Co print complete head replacement for multi color for the giga............. And for models like the Spider-Man model if you already have it in different parts then take each part and make them a specific millimeter like make the black 3mm then make the blue 4 or 5mm and then make the red 6mm and then grab all the stl's import them into orca at the same time and say yes import as one model boom done, and if it doesn't work then start moving around until you get it together perfectly and then hit assemble.
morning TT people
GM!@
forget the people that dont like the character models if they dont like them they dont have to buy them or look at them the can forward through it just do you man everyone is way to concerned with what other people do in their own lives these days but anyway love the vids man and keep up the hard work prints are looking good
A new shirt? And one with no buttons!! Will we ever learn the truth of the top button now?
Chest tattoo that, when seen, would make me, uh, less advertiser friendly.
@@TechnicalsTinkers That tracks, you definitely come across as Russian Mafia.
uhhhhh, move west and south a bit more
99% utubers only capable print benchy
I use a 4 loop skirt on every print. It primes the nozzle to make sure flow is consistent once the print starts.
Before I had a proper filament dryer, when I would print things out of PETG in particular, the skirt is was one way to minimize risk of my print failing or being ugly from poor extrusion.
It's 2025. Prime line / nose wipe is all you need.
@ most of the time, sure, but not always. I’ll take the extra few mm of filament to make sure the print is looking its best.
@ most of the time, sure, but not always. I’ll take the extra few mm of filament to make sure the print is looking its best.
@@michaelbraaten There is almost no instance where a skirt is better than a nose wipe.
The amount of priming you need is proportional to your printer, not your print.
Meanwhile you have chosen a priming mechanism that is proportional to your print. So you're just overshooting the priming requirement every time when, again, the amount is usually pretty fixed.
On top of that, since the skirt is now literally surrounding your print object, if there are any malfunctions with the skirt, it's much trickier to remove mid-print. A nose wipe sits on the edge and if necessary is easy to remove mid-print.
*"Extra few mm of filament to make sure the print is looking its best"* can just as easily, more consistently, more accurately, and more quickly be achieved with less risk with a nose wipe... by just adding a few mm to a nose wipe.
Skirts are junk. They're what people did before they knew any better.
You should be giving away your plastic to these poor starving creatures ruclips.net/video/GUdDXx-prgo/видео.htmlsi=Oowwma6PIjzBeabq.
nice shirt