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Look into a large food deyhdrator for your filament. You can get like 10 rolls at once in one or 5kg spools.

Ty. Note that if you don’t change max volumetric flow rate in the slicer it may not actually print any faster. Also, the ugly layers after the seam might be due to needing to tweak pressure advance.

For the PLA models on the bambu printer you could try using PETG for the support "interface" layers as it doesn't bond well with the PLA.. Regarding drying your filament, do not dryPLA above 50 C. PETG will need 60 to 70 C . I suggest Eibos or Polymaker brands, more expensive but better engineered and more efficient (my opinion) and worth the investment long term.

I would suggest to do the top half of the cube upside down. Just like the bottom part. The bottom part was perfect on the first try. Do the same for the top. Print quality should improve

Thanks for the video. I enjoy watching the process .

Grid infill could be causing some of your problems too. Change it to something that doesn't cross over itself on the same layer. Rectilinear, gyroid, cubic should all work better for you.

what modelling sw are you using matt.

I find it funny you noticed the same thing as I did with the chop saw guy. Printers are never running and looks like the shop was just sanitized for a photo shoot or possible surgery. Been in business for 38 years and on the very best day our shop is a hot mess with so much going on.

I have never had a problem with wet PLA and my PLA is left out not sure where you live but I live in Pennsylvania so not the driest place, I would make sure your top Z distance and bottom Z distance is set to .2 and put ur top and bot interface spacing at .5 layers set at 2 for top and bot, mine is set there 99% of the time the supports just break off easily and if they don't small needle nose pliers get a grip on it twist they come off with no problems, I probably go through 4 to 8 rolls a week maybe more on a busy week, when you're gluing that big print together use E6000 because it doesn't dry that quick and it's a pretty good bond.

Hi Mate, I noticed that you have a couple of plants in your shop/garage. they need water and they produce moisture in the room. I always try to get the room as dry as possible as it will effect the prints. when there is moisture in the filament it can and will create a blob in the printing part and that can lead to ugly prints and in the worst case a small layer shift. so try to keep the room as dry as possible, might want to use a moisture detection in your room and do a before and after removing the plants test. keep up the work/dream, love your videos so far.

I know this might be a long shot, but had you thought about making or getting an encloser for some of the printers that is for each printer? Bc I had similar problems with stringing and banding, bc it was my pantry for a wile until I moved it in to a smaller box that was just big enough for it. Now I only have a vary slight banding only bc of speed. So I think its the ambient airflow or keeping the ambient temp for the prints. (There's one that is made for the A1 with the AMS lite that I used to solved it)

Sunlu s4 dryer, does 4 rolls at a time

I bought a kobra 2 max to add to my fleet right when they launched. God i hate that printer. Constant layer shifts or the print just stopping mid print. screen goes black and wont respond until you cycle the power. Crappy firmware + overheating stepper drivers that cause them to miss step and layer shift. Still have the printer, Was thinking about pulling it out of storage and seeing if they fixed the firmware issues. But came across your video and see they still havent found a fix. check the pulleys on the Y axis motor in the back. Some people in the forums and FB groups had loose grub screws that caused a Y axis layer shift

i like the no sugar coat vibe of all these vids

for the red and black filament issue have you messed around with the box "flushing volumes" in bambu studio? Its to the right of where it says filament then flushing volumes then the +- signs...default is usually set to 1 lmao most of us go down....like 0.65 for me but you might need to go higher....this flush is the purge into the basket before it goes to the purge block.... Just tryin to help!!!

Yeah i adjust my top z/bottom z distance, i usually run it around 0.25-0.275, makes it alot easier to remove. not sure if its relative to layer height but seems to work fine for me for most things. maybe run a test print with different settings. they always flush, but some goes into infil. you can play with the flushing amount, more flushed into infil or out the back

You might want to keep your toy bondage girlies private. Creepy as hell bro.

Are you printing from an SD card? I remember I once had read issues which caused to fail my print every time at the same spot. It could also be a software bug. Very rare but not impossible. I had one PDF which could crash Epson Inkjet printers

Silk PLA always extrudes a little fatter for me as well, does not work work if I use it on a multicolor print with normal PLA on my A1. You should check out Overtures Royal colors like royal gold, silver and bronze when you want some shiny classy looking colors with PLA prints. Runs fine on the AMS lite and they are easy to tear off the sides and put onto a old bambu roll if you don't know about that hack.

Your description of the orange filament breaking indicates to me that it needs drying. From experience, I dry all new filaments fresh out of the vacuum sealed pouch for at least12 hours. Also, do not dry PLA above 50 degrees C.

Love the shirt bro!! And I used my a1 mini to do a functional print! real world! I printed my wife and I for work door stops, I did it in PLA carbon fiber! they are pretty damn strong and work well! I'm gonna scale them up a little bit but they work! I also had a thought... What about turning the inside of that Di into storage for like other Dice, the little action figures or what ever they are called and other stuff, kinda turns it into something other then art? just a thought! keep up the awesome vids!

I dont think any manufacturer dries their filament before shipping, they just vacuum seal with a desiccant pack. I made it a habit to dry out my materials before throwing them in my dry box for storage. AMS desiccant holders keep it dry while printing. Some materials its crucial to dry out before printing.

Misfortune is not your print. It's the Anycubic junk printer. Print it at 40mm per second and it might work. It takes 4 ever though. I got fed up with my two Kobra 2 Max wasting my time and sold them both for $200.

I put 2 Bambu filament rolls in my ams and the humidity raised from 10% to 45$. Now it's at 34% overnight. Have you printed the desiccant holders for the AMS? I just printed mine so now I have 7 desiccant containers in my ams.

try printing a single item instead of multiples when you're testing out new slicer settings or a new model. You aren't really saving time during testing. Keep at it!

I thought the channel letters are pretty cool.

Qudi plus 4 love mine prints pla petg abs asa nylon 6 & 12 pet pps ppa and all glass fiber carbon fiber filled ive also used peek-A and multi color coming for 759.00 ill buy it all day

What artist made those figurines?

I’ve heard that you can use PETG as an interface layer for PLA and vice-versa. Not tried it myself so far.

Good to see your 3D journey. I wonder, how often do you wash your plates?

Play around with the top z height, I had an issue on a model and lowered it slightly but my issue was different to yours. Bit would recommend playing around with it, or use petg as the support interface, it won’t stick to the pla

You know, you are one wrongly placed space away from being technical stinkers 😂

Yup welcome to silk....Doing some ZOU dragons right now for my FM coming up and it does the exact same thing the gold and my purple........but then prints fine...so far knock on wood.....Good video!!!

Silk looks like that when extruding, nothing to worry about.

I've never used these printers so it's fun to watch you figure things out, I have Bambu labs ones, the P1S, A1 and the A1 mini, I enjoy seeing the adventure you are on with all of this :)

Qidi Plus 4 set Bambu back a bit.

try printing the d20s at like 50% the size in 2 pieces to see if they look good after gluing them together to get practice in. Also at 3:01, you can see the shift seems to be inline with the top of the 7. Its upside down but the horizontal part of the 7, last layer. it shifts basically the thickness of the 7 and along that direction. my guess is the nozzle might drag on something and not enough current going through the motors. It might be worth trying to go full send with it and not do stable mode.

well november is formnext and not showing anything is really bad.

Who wants a bongaged girl..?!!? 😮 An angel..??? Shame on you!🤮

Looks like the D20 might need different infill. The one you are using has points where the perpendicular lines cross to make a higher point, yet not enough support to the indents for the numbers, so it's making two failure points. Gyroid, Cross-hatch or adaptive cubic would help you, but you might consider upping the infill percentage.

1 This has been said before get off anycubic slicer.... get on prusa or orca slicer!!!! 2 Really pay attention to where that layer shift is!!!!! The file its-self could be bad....Not sure if you deign the file yourself or not....if not you may want to draw your own up....this could help you with overhangs and what not...... 3 some one mentioned getting away from grid going with lighting or just no infill......I would really try no infill and bump walls personally and then really look at the slice closely!!! Be for sending off to printer.... Great video good job keep at it!!!!!

5:05 Just invest in a RatRig V-Core 4 500 IDEX

An XL X1C is coming. Talked to some of the guys at Rapid back in June. They wanted to reveal it there but there was some delays that stopped them

im gonna be buying a Bambu A1 for my boys xmas. We have absolutely no idea about basic printing......NONE. If you could help a guy out and cover some of the basics ya legend!

You might be interested in what this guy is doing. www.youtube.com/@M3GreatRiffs He does huge prints on the regular with much older printers.

Bambu Labs servers went down awhile back ago it happens

2 items to try with the NSFW prints or multi color prints in general. Use PETG for supports. Since PETG and pla don’t like each other. Supports come right off. Also, can try tilting the model at an angle. It will help the kneeling models shins and other horizontal areas … although makes more supports.

bamboo Labs is spewing word salad

Qidi Plus 4 should be on radar. Had mine for about 2 weeks and other then the nozzles they come with having heat creep with PLA (They covered a new hotend at no cost which has newer ceramic heat break). Print quality equal to my P1S and have printed PETG and ABS-GF without any issues. PLA has gotten better with no clogs with new style of nozzle. Feels like a very prosumer product at a price that competes with BambuLabs.

LAN mode only... Don't use clouds