I bought this press sleeve kit per your recommendation and swapped out my rear upper and lower control arm bushings yesterday with polyurethane ones and didn't curse once! Success! The LCA bushings took a lot more force with the press but with heat and persistence, they came out slowly and surely. It helps that I've been a technician for over 10 years and have a shop to use whenever I want but I've always hated pressing out bushings, made it so much easier having the right sleeves to press into and support the arms. Thanks for releasing the best technical content on the 4runner on the internet.
Hey Kristoff, good job getting your bushings replaced. As you well know, having the right tool for the job is huge. I always tell people that if you have the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience, you can do your own automotive work. Compliments like yours, especially since you are an experienced technician, really puts a smile on our face. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching Brother!
Thanks Sir! Appreciate your uploads. Here is the growing list of things I was able to due following your videos. *Coolant flush *Trans flush *Radiator replacement *T-stat replacement *Front drive belts *Keyless remote program Next year I will tackle the timing belt. Thanks again for your uploads.
Thanks for sharing this. It's awesome to hear when people are making good use of our videos. Just think of all the money you've saved yourself doing all this work yourself. Great Job!
incredible but true after 2 years trying to find the problem I finally found it this is for all 4runner owners before changing a transmission or a torque converter the upper control bushings align the drive line I am very happy thanks to your videos I have restored my 4runner👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Just a heads up...and I believe tim warns about this in the LCA video. I removed the passenger side first and reinstalled before pulling the driver side UCA. When I went to reinstall the driver's side, the axel had shifted a bit forward making it impossible to reinstall the the UCA. So have a ratchet strap available to pull the rear axle back a tiny bit. Otherwise, I couldn't reinstall the bolts. YMMV. '98 4runner manual. Otherwise, a super easy job even for a rookie like me.
You know, it's hit or miss with the axle coming out of whack. We did this job again on another rig and we were able to do it without using ratchet straps. I guess it's just luck of the draw.
Thanks for the good informative video, Tim. Just replaced my rear pan hard bushings on my 3rd gen with the help of my Dad. I guess I learned something new today about not greasing the ID of of the rear pan hard bar. No wonder I was struggling to slide in the metal sleeve LOL Will be doing this mod in the next week.
Hi Timmy, I used this video to replace panhard bushings. Followed Jordan's cutting technique. I used Superpro bushings and the instructions said to grease all the surfaces. Maybe the brands have different approaches who knows. Another job I would never have felt confident to try before finding your channel.
Hey Andrew, good job getting the job done and glad our video helped you out. You usually only lubricate the inside diameter of these poly bushings where the metal sleeve slides through because that's where you want the pivoting to happen as the suspension is moving. You don't want the whole bushing turning in the shaft. That's at least the way I understand it. When I first started using poly bushings I lubricated all surfaces but then learned it's only suggested to lubricate the inner diameter. Is it a huge deal,? I don't know.
I'm wondering if it's best to just take everything out and replace all the bushings at the same time. I've been doing one set at a time (front lower control arms, then working my way back when I have time). After realigning, I noticed the rear upper control arm was snapped, and when they shop did my last alignment, they aligned it to max pan. It may be best to do these, recenter and neutralize the front control arms, and then re-align. Just a note as there are a lot of lazy alignment shops out there. Timmy Rocks.
I don't think you necessarily need to do all the bushings at once because that's a ton of work to do in one shot. But, doing them in pairs like you've been doing makes absolute sense. Glad our videos are helping you out.
Update: I removed the upper control arms since the bushings started to squeak. Everything was still in great shape. I had a little tube of the Whiteline bushing grease leftover so I cleaned things up and reapplied the grease. Ready for another 5+ years of service!
I installed napa lowers 2 years ago. Still look/feel new. Thinking of doing the napa uppers now because I dont have a press and rather not hassle with it. How is access to these on removing/installing? Thanks!
I don't know the size of the bolt. It's either an M12 or M14. You could probably order new bolts through your local dealer if that's why you're asking.
I just had one of my uppers out. I am getting a clunk on articulation. The rubber is separating some. However mine don't look like the ones in the video. They appear to have a metal outer ring, also the rubber is recessed slightly inside of the arm. I don't have access to a hydraulic press. I am wondering if I can use a C clamp type ball joint press.
That's interesting your control arms look different. Sounds like somebody put on a set of aftermarket arms. I think a C-clamp type of press might work but I guess it will depend if you have the right adapters to go with it to do the pressing.
@@TimmyTheToolman mine are factory stock. It was one of the first FJs here. Bought new in April '06. I can't post a picture of them, but here's a link to shock bushings that are of similar design. www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2007/toyota/fj_cruiser/suspension/shock_absorber_mount_bushing.html#immersedview I can build adapters for the press. Thanks
Glad you like the video. I'm not sure about you're question but I think you're asking how we removed the upper control arms. We used a small cordless impact gun to remove the bolts but a regular ratchet and socket or box-end wrench would suffice as well.
Timmy The Toolman Thanks dir your answer, and excuse me dir my poor english. My question is about using ratchet strap as the lower control arm job, to release and put on the bolts easily.
Oh, ok. Yes, the ratchet straps do make it easier to get the bolts out and back in. If the bolts aren't coming out easily, try pulling the rear axle one direction either forward or backward. If that direction doesn't help, try the opposite direction.
Hi Timmy 😁👍 Entertaining video guys.Thanks for make stuff like this, it makes my day😇. After watching this, I want polyurethane bushing on my Toyota pickup 🤔 keep up the god work. Hi !! from a big fan in Norway🇧🇻🐑
Whats his lift? Are the poly bushings squeeking? I'm at the point where I need to replace the bushings or buy upgraded hardware. Thanks 99 4Runner 2 inch lift
Jordan doesn't have a lift. His rig is stock from what I remember. He does utilize lift bags that he installed in the rear springs for when he travels so he can offset the extra weight he's carrying in the cargo area. No, the poly bushings aren't squeaking. Poly bushing can squeak but proper lubrication usually eliminates it.
Hi, how do I determine if my problem is an upper or lower bushing, I have a clunking noise on some bumpy roads and I sometimes feel a slop while accelerating after braking?
Well, the clunk could originate from many areas. It could be from the front suspension, rear suspension, motor or transmission mounts, possibly a driveshaft and other things I'm not thinking of. Your best bet is to get under the vehicle and start inspecting and prying on things. For bushings, you are looking for cracks and separation of the rubber from the metal sleeve it's encased in.
Maybe just visit one of the stores and figure it out. If they have two kits, rent both of them. It doesn't cost you any money as long as you return the tools so you could rent every tool they have in the store.
OK, Jordan got back to me and said he was doing it just for general maintenance thinking the bushings were probably a little worn. From what I've now seen on two different rigs, these rear control arm bushings do end up wearing out and generating excessive movement. Jordan reported his ride did improve. So, it was worthwhile. Mark, the guy we did the rear lower control arm bushing replacement job for said his ride improved a ton. But, his bushings were more wasted than Jordan's. I'm thinking I'll do it on both my 3rd Gens at some point. Since my 98 has a lift on it, I'll probably renew the rear control arm bushings on it first.
I wonder how good they are. They actually use different bushings for the front and rear of the front lower control arms which is interesting because that's how the OEM ones are. The Whiteline LCA bushings are the same for the front and rear for the front LCAs. Who knows, maybe they are well thought out and quality bushings. I've just never heard anyone suggest Siberian poly bushings on the Toyota forums. It's always Energy Suspension and Whiteline.
It wasn't clear to me why you cut off the rubber flange and then didn't push from THAT (now narrowed) end through the control arm eye. Looked at it again and saw that you had done that to be able to place the receiver cup against the eye of the arm. The rubber on the pushing end folded in as you pushed. DUH !
Yeah Dave, we thought we could get away with just cutting the rubber off just one side but the 27mm socket ended up getting wedged pretty good in the control arm. So, taking the time to cut the rubber off both sides is the best way to go.
Well, the bolts are harder to access but I don't know if I would qualify the uppers as being way harder to get out compared to the lowers. Anyway, thanks for the comment.
*PLEASE READ VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
I bought this press sleeve kit per your recommendation and swapped out my rear upper and lower control arm bushings yesterday with polyurethane ones and didn't curse once! Success! The LCA bushings took a lot more force with the press but with heat and persistence, they came out slowly and surely. It helps that I've been a technician for over 10 years and have a shop to use whenever I want but I've always hated pressing out bushings, made it so much easier having the right sleeves to press into and support the arms. Thanks for releasing the best technical content on the 4runner on the internet.
Hey Kristoff, good job getting your bushings replaced. As you well know, having the right tool for the job is huge. I always tell people that if you have the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience, you can do your own automotive work. Compliments like yours, especially since you are an experienced technician, really puts a smile on our face. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching Brother!
Thanks Sir! Appreciate your uploads. Here is the growing list of things I was able to due following your videos.
*Coolant flush
*Trans flush
*Radiator replacement
*T-stat replacement
*Front drive belts
*Keyless remote program
Next year I will tackle the timing belt.
Thanks again for your uploads.
Thanks for sharing this. It's awesome to hear when people are making good use of our videos. Just think of all the money you've saved yourself doing all this work yourself. Great Job!
Thanks again Timmy. Did both sets this weekend and drives like a dream - never noticed how squirrely my rear was before now. Much more stable.
You're welcome. Good to hear your rig is handling better after the job. A satisfying and affordable repair for sure.
incredible but true after 2 years trying to find the problem I finally found it this is for all 4runner owners before changing a transmission or a torque converter the upper control bushings align the drive line I am very happy thanks to your videos I have restored my 4runner👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Good job fixing the issue. I'm glad our videos helped you out.
Just a heads up...and I believe tim warns about this in the LCA video. I removed the passenger side first and reinstalled before pulling the driver side UCA. When I went to reinstall the driver's side, the axel had shifted a bit forward making it impossible to reinstall the the UCA. So have a ratchet strap available to pull the rear axle back a tiny bit. Otherwise, I couldn't reinstall the bolts. YMMV. '98 4runner manual. Otherwise, a super easy job even for a rookie like me.
You know, it's hit or miss with the axle coming out of whack. We did this job again on another rig and we were able to do it without using ratchet straps. I guess it's just luck of the draw.
@@TimmyTheToolman agreed. Was happy u mentioned the pissibility the axle may move. I was prepared!
Thanks for the good informative video, Tim. Just replaced my rear pan hard bushings on my 3rd gen with the help of my Dad. I guess I learned something new today about not greasing the ID of of the rear pan hard bar. No wonder I was struggling to slide in the metal sleeve LOL
Will be doing this mod in the next week.
Glad you found this video informative Josh. Good luck with the job and Happy Wrenching!
Did you need a press to remove the old panahed bushings?
@@jtworksoncars6341 no. Just get a propane torch and heat up the metal sleeve and they will pop out
Hi Timmy, I used this video to replace panhard bushings. Followed Jordan's cutting technique. I used Superpro bushings and the instructions said to grease all the surfaces. Maybe the brands have different approaches who knows. Another job I would never have felt confident to try before finding your channel.
Hey Andrew, good job getting the job done and glad our video helped you out. You usually only lubricate the inside diameter of these poly bushings where the metal sleeve slides through because that's where you want the pivoting to happen as the suspension is moving. You don't want the whole bushing turning in the shaft. That's at least the way I understand it. When I first started using poly bushings I lubricated all surfaces but then learned it's only suggested to lubricate the inner diameter. Is it a huge deal,? I don't know.
I'm wondering if it's best to just take everything out and replace all the bushings at the same time. I've been doing one set at a time (front lower control arms, then working my way back when I have time). After realigning, I noticed the rear upper control arm was snapped, and when they shop did my last alignment, they aligned it to max pan. It may be best to do these, recenter and neutralize the front control arms, and then re-align. Just a note as there are a lot of lazy alignment shops out there. Timmy Rocks.
I don't think you necessarily need to do all the bushings at once because that's a ton of work to do in one shot. But, doing them in pairs like you've been doing makes absolute sense. Glad our videos are helping you out.
Update: I removed the upper control arms since the bushings started to squeak. Everything was still in great shape. I had a little tube of the Whiteline bushing grease leftover so I cleaned things up and reapplied the grease. Ready for another 5+ years of service!
Thanks for the update, Jordan. My Whiteline bushings seem to be holding as well.
I'm back in California hoping I can make to the meet up !
Yeah, make it happen. It's going to be a good time.
Where can I get the video of how you remove them
Great video!
Thanks! Glad you like it.
Do you think these bushings will fit on a 2004 Sequoia?
Not sure what the diameter is of the rear control arms. So can’t say for sure,
- Sean
Any noticeable ride quality improvements?
Not really, unless your old bushings were wasted. The rear end can wander a bit with worn out bushings and give the vehicle less stability.
Thanks again Timmy. Did both sets have a slight vibration in the drive line and with this the vibrations disappeared now it drives like a silk💯💯👌
@@robertogarcia35 That's good news!
I installed napa lowers 2 years ago. Still look/feel new. Thinking of doing the napa uppers now because I dont have a press and rather not hassle with it. How is access to these on removing/installing? Thanks!
Access to the uppers is pretty easy. You shouldn't have any problems.
any idea what size these bolts are? same as lowers?
I don't know the size of the bolt. It's either an M12 or M14. You could probably order new bolts through your local dealer if that's why you're asking.
I have seen people use heat torch the side and the bushing pop out as it melts.
Yep, that's one way to do it since the bushing isn't encased in a metal sleeve.
I just had one of my uppers out. I am getting a clunk on articulation. The rubber is separating some. However mine don't look like the ones in the video. They appear to have a metal outer ring, also the rubber is recessed slightly inside of the arm. I don't have access to a hydraulic press. I am wondering if I can use a C clamp type ball joint press.
That's interesting your control arms look different. Sounds like somebody put on a set of aftermarket arms. I think a C-clamp type of press might work but I guess it will depend if you have the right adapters to go with it to do the pressing.
@@TimmyTheToolman mine are factory stock. It was one of the first FJs here. Bought new in April '06.
I can't post a picture of them, but here's a link to shock bushings that are of similar design. www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2007/toyota/fj_cruiser/suspension/shock_absorber_mount_bushing.html#immersedview
I can build adapters for the press. Thanks
Great video, thank you so much. Need ratchet job to take off the upper control arm screws?
Glad you like the video. I'm not sure about you're question but I think you're asking how we removed the upper control arms. We used a small cordless impact gun to remove the bolts but a regular ratchet and socket or box-end wrench would suffice as well.
Timmy The Toolman Thanks dir your answer, and excuse me dir my poor english. My question is about using ratchet strap as the lower control arm job, to release and put on the bolts easily.
Oh, ok. Yes, the ratchet straps do make it easier to get the bolts out and back in. If the bolts aren't coming out easily, try pulling the rear axle one direction either forward or backward. If that direction doesn't help, try the opposite direction.
Hi Timmy 😁👍 Entertaining video guys.Thanks for make stuff like this, it makes my day😇. After watching this, I want polyurethane bushing on my Toyota pickup 🤔 keep up the god work. Hi !! from a big fan in Norway🇧🇻🐑
Thanks. Poly bushings are a nice way to go and often times much more affordable than buying OEM replacements.
Links of the videos you mentioned please.
Open the video description by clicking on "Show More". You'll find everything you need there.
Whats his lift? Are the poly bushings squeeking? I'm at the point where I need to replace the bushings or buy upgraded hardware.
Thanks
99 4Runner 2 inch lift
Jordan doesn't have a lift. His rig is stock from what I remember. He does utilize lift bags that he installed in the rear springs for when he travels so he can offset the extra weight he's carrying in the cargo area. No, the poly bushings aren't squeaking. Poly bushing can squeak but proper lubrication usually eliminates it.
Hi, how do I determine if my problem is an upper or lower bushing, I have a clunking noise on some bumpy roads and I sometimes feel a slop while accelerating after braking?
Well, the clunk could originate from many areas. It could be from the front suspension, rear suspension, motor or transmission mounts, possibly a driveshaft and other things I'm not thinking of. Your best bet is to get under the vehicle and start inspecting and prying on things. For bushings, you are looking for cracks and separation of the rubber from the metal sleeve it's encased in.
Anyone know the correct part number for the autozone press sleeve kit they loan out for free? Prefer that rather than buying one. Thanks!
Maybe just visit one of the stores and figure it out. If they have two kits, rent both of them. It doesn't cost you any money as long as you return the tools so you could rent every tool they have in the store.
what is the update on these bushings? are they holding up?
These bushings are holding up great. No noise or issues. Mark just went wheeling in the snow last weekend as well
Question here. Why did Jordan choose to change the bushings? Is it about amount of miles or what? any specifics miles for it? Thank you
I can't remember but I sent a text to Jordan to ask him. I'll update my answer when he gets back to me. Good question.
Thank you.
OK, Jordan got back to me and said he was doing it just for general maintenance thinking the bushings were probably a little worn. From what I've now seen on two different rigs, these rear control arm bushings do end up wearing out and generating excessive movement. Jordan reported his ride did improve. So, it was worthwhile. Mark, the guy we did the rear lower control arm bushing replacement job for said his ride improved a ton. But, his bushings were more wasted than Jordan's.
I'm thinking I'll do it on both my 3rd Gens at some point. Since my 98 has a lift on it, I'll probably renew the rear control arm bushings on it first.
Thank you so much. That was very helpful. Do you know how many miles their rigs have? Thank you Timmy.
No, I don't know their mileages but I'll find out for you.
You ever try the Siberian polyurethane bushings?
No, I haven't. Never heard of them. Do you get a bottle of vodka when you order a set?
They sell on Amazon.com
siberianbushing.com/catalog/TOYOTA/USA/4%20RUNNER/-/2004
I wonder how good they are. They actually use different bushings for the front and rear of the front lower control arms which is interesting because that's how the OEM ones are. The Whiteline LCA bushings are the same for the front and rear for the front LCAs. Who knows, maybe they are well thought out and quality bushings. I've just never heard anyone suggest Siberian poly bushings on the Toyota forums. It's always Energy Suspension and Whiteline.
What’s the torque spec for reinstall?
Check the video description.
Oh duh, I should have checked that. Thanks! Awesome videos btw!
It wasn't clear to me why you cut off the rubber flange and then didn't push from THAT (now narrowed) end through the control arm eye. Looked at it again and saw that you had done that to be able to place the receiver cup against the eye of the arm. The rubber on the pushing end folded in as you pushed. DUH !
Yeah Dave, we thought we could get away with just cutting the rubber off just one side but the 27mm socket ended up getting wedged pretty good in the control arm. So, taking the time to cut the rubber off both sides is the best way to go.
upper control arms are way harder to get out
Well, the bolts are harder to access but I don't know if I would qualify the uppers as being way harder to get out compared to the lowers. Anyway, thanks for the comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman On my rusty undercarriage they sure were! Harder to get back in but I got the job done! Thanks flor help
@@twelve_thirteen Gotcha. You're welcome!