Don't Ignore That Brake Noise! Subaru Outback Brake Horrors!
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- Опубликовано: 15 мар 2022
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My hand is hurting from you pounding on the wrench.
Thanks for taking us along on this brake job.
As a retired mechanic I can attest to the fact that as you get older you will regret the using of the “meat hammer” after a number of years. Better to wear out a soft face hammer or mallet to whack those wrenches. Thanks for the videos!
I use a 1 foot section of black gas pipe as a cheater for wrenches, when needed. If you squish one end to ovalize it, it'll fit over smaller wrenches.
A second, smaller diameter pipe can be inserted into the larger pipe ( once the ends are beveled inside on the larger/ outside on the smaller) to extend your (now) 2-piece cheater bar.
Fits easy in a tool box , too, since it breaks down into 1 foot sections.
Made my hand hurt watching that also..... Been there done that.... Ugh!
Just had my 2017 Forester brakes checked during routine alignment, balance, rotation. They said I have 50% left on original pads at 63k mi. I don't always drive like a grandpa, but when I do, it saves me a shitload of time/money on brake jobs
When I took my Crosstrek in at 120k they said I’d need new pads in about 10k miles or so. I drive a lot of highway miles but I was really impressed by how long the brakes lasted.
Well, you CAN extend your brake replacement interval if you wear into the caliper piston too! 😀
I>>in
I always put a thin layer of anti-seize on the wheel bearing surface to prevent the rotor from rusting to it. Also use anti-seize on virtually every bolt I remove. On the caliper bolts I use threadlocker instead, but both serve the same purpose; allow the bolt to thread in smoothly, and protect the threads from rust.
I was wondering if it would be ok to use antiseize - wonderful stuff around saltwater and corrosive conditions.
I love doing brakes, as long as it all goes to plan it's like meditation to me. I just let my mind wander
That's how i feel when i detail my car.
same! the only exception is when changing the brake lines, then it's time to pay attention 😅
Like putting on the nut before you flare the tube?
I've never had a repair go according to plan lol
This is so funny that you posted thus video. Monday I did a 91 Chevy W/T 1500 truck brake job. She was making noise but luckily it still had a 1/16" of pad on the right ft, 1/8" on the left. The owner claimed it was the rear making noise. Luckily the rear shoes were almost like new, hardly any wear at all.
As a side note: When the axle seals are leaking it puts a nice thin film of differential oil on the shoes and they hardly wear at all.
Next week I am replacing the seals but it will probably start wearing down the brake shoes now. I guess we can't have everything.
What an excellent job you do, Mr Subaru. Pity you're not in my part of the world (UK)
Being deep in the rust belt, I do put a light coat of anti-sieze under those stainless pad shims after removing the rust that jams the pads. Definitely worse on the rear in this road-salt mecca, and a yearly clean-up problem over the last 30 years. A yearly brake fluid flush also helps to preserve the calipers, hence 20 year life for us. My sore hands reflect my use of a large rubber hammer to slap those bolts loose - you being a younger person with lots more hair will likely not need that aid for a few years, grin.
one cheap trick I know to avoid any knuckle busting is using a ratchet on the bolt and gently tapping it with a dead blow hammer. loosens the bolt without any strain on the mechanic.
also, you got 20 years out of your subaru calipers!?
@@anaphrodisiacxyu Yes, clean brake fluid yearly, plus replacing seals and boots as they crack / tear = calipers like new inside 20 years on. Also never, never use brake fluid as an assembly lube, as it attracts water and promotes rust.
yes I use a low strength thread locker only one drop on the caliper bracket bolts and make sure there tight for peace of mind. Also use long wrenches/aka spanners in aus to make sure its not gonna come loose. Great videos as always 🙏
Great, interesting video.. Would have enjoyed seeing the front pads replaced - darn battery... Lol... Thanks for the tips and info!! Great job!!
You do good work that customer should be happy with the repair.
I just did my front and rear rotors today, what a treat. Had a brake pad incident like this on an old civic about 10 years ago, neglected it for a very long time, started grinding on the metal plate and did a 3 am pad change on the side of the road using an extra jack wedged against my car to push the caliper in. Can't imagine how long this had to be neglected to have the entire metal pad plate disappear haha
I have replaced the rear brake pads a second time in one car due to improper installation of the brake pads.This one,the customer's cousin installed the brake pads backwards metal to metal.Did one rear brake pad job in a Subaru that the brake caliper housing was being used as a brake pad eating the caliper housing not worth sending the old caliper in as a core
Thanks for the video.
😂 i have over tightened the caliper bolts... And freaked out 😱 i freaked. I thought I fk my car up. Napa guy was laughing 🤣.
This is why annual state safety inspections are a good thing.
No such thing in South Carolina.
Not in Kentucky either. I thought that was just New York.
One time I was changing my brakes on my new 2000 Outback at the time at my next door friends house and we put the brakes back together without the pads on the front left. 😂🤣🤦🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
12:04 what is that spray? Also can you please list the rotor bolt thread size for the outback rotor removal bolts? That's pretty cool btw.
My '11 has pretty much always had issues with rear brake pads from purchase with 38k miles to present with 177k miles - front pads never a problem but rears do not seem to release pressure always and pads tend to lock/jam in the caliper holder on top of the stainless anti-rattle shims. I was finally fairly successful with doing a heavy cleaning of the area where the shims seat in the caliper holder and lubricating the shims and pad ears with brake lube liberally - I made sure that the pad ears are allowed to slide easily on the shims and not jam or cock when the caliper is reinstalled. I have begun using Subaru replacement pads/shims as the quality is better than many aftermarket pads sets - the pad ears are machined better and squarer/straighter to allow a better snug but better sliding motion to prevent pad jam.. Yes, I've had pads spit out before as on the car in the video.
Love your vids. Throw those tires under the car just in case. Especially on gravel.
Several years ago a coworker brought me his motorcycle and said the rear brake was making a little noise. It was the same as this Outback - the piston had been riding on the rotor. Since the pads on motorcycles are so small, the piston face isn’t always covered by the pad, so there was a nice 1/4” of metal missing from one side of the piston. Luckily Kawasaki sold a rebuild kit for the caliper so it was a relatively cheap fix. Every time I hear brakes squealing, I see that piston haunting me and I cringe!
A nylon pistol barrel cleaning brush is useful to clean old lube out of the caliper pin recesses.
Nice video as always!!, any chance you can do a rear brake job with the electric motor in the caliper. How to compress the caliper if you have an electric motor. Thank you !!
My left rear caliper is stuck and I had a constant metal screech front right that magically disappeared lmao my 2011 Outback 3.6R which has also gotten a new torque converter and needs the p1710 valve body hall effect sensor fix. Thanks for the vid!
i'm sorry, bro. I had a laugh at :03 when YOUR BEARD entered the frame before you did >_< 😆
That is one area I've never worked on myself...brakes. Guess I'm a bit overparanoid because if there's one thing you don't want to fail, it's your brakes! After watching this, MAYBE I'll be more willing to give it a try. Used to help my dad on his cars about 50 years back... not much has really changed except most cars are all discs now instead of drums or a disc/drum (front/rear) mix.
I felt the same way the first time! paranoia is good when you're working on literally the one thing that keeps your vehicle from crashing. luckily, most (caliper) brake systems are nearly universal in design with very few bolts, so you really can't screw it up
Did a full set on mine, front and back, it’s making a slight noise like the pads are touching, oh man I thought this was supposed to be easy, not to mention I had trouble adjusting the e brake
My kingdom for a lift. I did this on my 2016 Silverado last Sunday. On stands like this. Chevy did not want those caliper brackets falling off. So low to the ground barely got the breaker bar on an have my son step on the end to get them loose enough for my cordless to spin out.
I had this not long ago. My rear caliper piston got shot out of the caliper and destroyed my rotor (practically) and I had not pad left on the inside.. I didnt care much for a 2 weeks as I had already planned on changing the rear rotors and that particular caliper.. So I did the break job and now its much better, but I need to do my front brakes now and new calipers as well which sucks when you have replaced two wheel bearings as well. Of course, I did not do the bearings because in the rust belt, its not worth my time or anger rising up because it wont budge..
The slide pins need the grease that you showed. This is a high temp application. If general duty grease is used it will gum up the pins.
Great video how you not notice that had to been loud.
I use the piston tool with the trigger for smaller calipers like these and I have one like you used here for the bigger dual or 4 caliper pistons
watching that passenger rear caliper is sure emotional damage.
Good video.
Thanks!
I’ve been ignoring mine. Just hit 30k and started maybe 2-3k ago and I figured there’s no way my. I have a 5 speed 19 impreza 5 door, my wife has about 60k on her 18 cross trek and barely hit 4mm on the rears so I thought I was good. I checked yesterday. I’m at 2mm on the rear and 4mm on the front. I did always say I rather change brakes instead of a transmission so I never down shift to slow down so glad I checked hahaha
I had a devil of a time with my slide pins( the rubber bushed one) because I used standard brake grease- it makes the rubber bushing swell! Then I found Sil-Glyde.
I had to buy new rubbers, tho, as they were junk at that point.
I think the rubber bushed pin is to stop chatter. I had the same setup on an old Saturn Vue.
ok, but how did you get the pin back in with the bushing still on? whenever I tried it traps the air inside the caliper and won't go in any further!
@@anaphrodisiacxyu you have to have enogh grease to do the job but not enough to cause stop the pin from bottoming out.
A squirt of brake cleaner in to the pin bore and cleanup with q tips , then work a bit of silicone based grease with the slide pin without the bushing. Then install the bushing.
Definately don't want to have Silglyde grease at the bottom of the bore or the pin won't be able to fully retract.
New bushings help, too. Mine swelled using normal brake grease. The petro base makes the bushes swell.
Hello Robert, I have seen the piston available as a spare...maybe Rockauto.
I thought to myself that wd40 is ur friend.. But I see the importance of ur ways😉
One question - what is that drill attachment you used for cleaning the wheel studs? I can't seem to find any through web search. This video was hugely helpful, I've been waiting for warmer weather to do my rear brakes, as the pads are completely spent. Thanks! Love your videos!
Hub buddy - amzn.to/3JpZ0zU
@@MrSubaru1387 Brilliant, thanks!
For pad bead in I do the same but I gown down to 5 mph I don't completely stop I was taught if you do that sometimes it will give uneven pad transfer. ...giving you a pulsation. ...
My 2018 2.0L Forester LHS left rear back brake pad wore through at 70k km.
I drive like a Grandpa.
I took the lot apart and found the the slide pin , the one with the rubber washer sleeve was jamming - probably the reason for premature wear n tear. Tiny tiny fault in design.
Lol my sister called me years ago and asked if she should grease the "part that touches the rotor" I was like yeah sure do that... If you don't want to stop at all. All joking aside I was like do NOT grease the friction side of the pad! I couldn't believe she even asked me that. SMH
If you get any grease on the pads, you can take a gas torch to them and burn it out and save them. Works great.
You sound like a OSHA hazard
You can, I won't.
Hi. Thks for your videos. I just finished full brake job pads and rotors on 2012 forester. When I apply the brakes I believe the rear brakes squeak most noticeable at higher speeds. Akebono ceramic rear pads. subaru front pads. aftermarket rotors front and rear. any guidance appreciated. eveything torqued and lubed to specs. thks
What is that tool that your are using to remove rust from the hub? I'd be interested in picking one up
I'm doing front brakes on my 03 Forester once Fedex delivers the parts so this video is very timely for me
Called the hub buddy - amzn.to/34OJcHH
I can tell you're being very careful not to damage that koken rachet or whatever it is
The handle looks like a Koken. I have four of their ratchets and I really enjoy how smooth they are. All of my other ratchets are lonely now!
How on God's green earth did that back pad come out lol....
Wow, where can I find the tool you used to remove the rust around wheel lugs? That’s neat!
amzn.to/37XLNAn
The pads I got had that brake in procedure printed on the box.
Wow those rotors were crusty! Very satisfying to see them GONE.
Question: Couldn't you just replace the brake piston instead of the entire caliper? And maybe do an overhaul with new seals? Seems like in Japan we can get just a new rear brake piston for $30-$50 and seal kits for $20 to save money on the repair. Do you guys get these parts?
Then again I can get a pair of used brake calipers for $15 plus shipping here, so maybe our car market is just different haha.
No one here in the land of consumerism rebuilds stuff. I don't think I can even buy a piston and seal kit here.
@@MrSubaru1387 Ah man, sorry to hear that. If you ever find something or are looking for anything worth sending from Japan, lemme know and I'd be happy to help where possible!
I've seen some pretty bad brakes but haven't come across one where the steel backer is worn to the point of non existent
Funny myb3.6 R has vented rotors on the back , you'd think the outback would have this standard with 2.5 , not just 3.6R
For some reason, these rear brake rotors from Advance Auto Parts will not work on my 05 Outback 2.5i 5 speed. The middle part is always machined too long and pushes straight into the backing plate and the rotor will not turn at all. Advance says this is the only rotor that comes up in their system for my car. I actually have to grind away the extended ring on the back of the rotor that seals the parking brake components from the elements so I’m able to get the rotors to work. The ones from Subaru are like 120.00 a piece. Ouch.
Generally speaking, brakes on most Subarus are so cheap and easy, there's no excuse.
brake pads, rotors: yes. replacing four calipers is unfortunately not cheap...
Good morning sir subaru. My wife's forester dash brake light was on in the morning but went away in the afternoon. Fluid level is good. Maybe just new brakes needed or possible bad sensor? What's your take?
Mr. Subaru can you demo the same job on a later model with EPB? More specifically not using a scan tool for people don't have the budget? I saw someone using a 9V battery to retract the actuator and was very interested on how it works on Subarus.
I need to get my hands on a 15+ to demo. That's for sure.
Still want to purchase a new car with hand brakes in 2022? Not to worry, get a BRZ or a manual Impreza! Still has hand brakes, unlike a manual HONDA!
It is very important that you don't introduce air into the rear calipers with an EPB. Unless you have some professional equipment to get all the air out, you'll have to buy wet calipers to replace them with.
Check the radio controls, some will retract into "service mode".
Anything extra needed to keep ABS working in top shape on outback?
When you do a wheel bearing hub should you apply grease to the cv axle spindle before you put it back into the new wheel bearing hub?
Or alternatively just clean it off with a wire brush and spray copper never seize?
Hey, I got a big question if can answer me that would be awesome. I have a 2004 outback and I wanted to know if there is any compatibility with other subaru brake shoes
With the brake fluid as high as it was in the reservoir is it better to open the top of the reservoir to release some of the pressure when compressing the brake caliper?
Yup, you'll need to drain some fluid from the reservoir when retracting the caliper pistons
So the pad was able to break free of the bracket? I wonder if the ears of the pad got sheared off? I hope they return and put on a caliper...Then you can pop out the piston and show us the scoring on the inside. That's my guess.
What size bolts did you use to jack the rotors out?
I did all 4 brakes on my 05 Outback about a year ago. Had to replace the front caliper brackets as the slide pins were completely frozen. Lubed the rears up good. Now I get a slight squeak when - for instance backing out of a parking spot at low speed (when braking). Any ideas what to look for?
So. I have a 2005 outback ll bean edition with the 3.0 had a mechanic I trust with my cars life put on 4 pads all around. Two new rear rotors and the fronts were fine.
About 10,000 miles later I’m getting a pretty mean grind noise. It’s light when just driving. But gets louder when braking. Sounded like it came from the right rear. Mechanic dissembled the entire rear right brake and we couldn’t find grinding marks, wear, pads still looked brand new almost. Kind of at a loss. Any dust shield we should look to re bend or? I’m getting a brake dust smell to. Lightly braking, hard braking. No smoke or anything though.
Thoughts?
Will you be making a video on your thoughts of Subaru killing off the STI ???
Where are you at so I can just take my car to you 😂
I'm looking to do brakes on my 04 WRX and I can't seem to find a place that has an OEM kit front and rear for sale. Is there a part number for an OE kit for pads hardware and rotors or at least pads and hardware?
surprised to see you use none OEM brake parts. Have you had good luck with those? I have used centric rotors on Subarus before and Akebono. They all seemed like high
quality parts
I usually use Wearever or Carquest brake components.
+1 for Centric / Stoptech !
Mr Subaru, do you have a car that you have repaired and is for sale? You are very reliable and trustworthy.
Drove mine down to the backing plate. Sounded like a bad bearing at first. There is always something else
Did you make that caliper hanger yourself, or can you purchase them somewhere?
Purchase - amzn.to/38oqTux
The caliper boot kit for a set of two calipers costs $137 with tax from Subaru dealership. I did buy them. I try to avoid buying parts from Subaru dealership. I always regret it. I know you advocate buying factory and I appreciate that. But those prices are ridiculous. 137 bucks man.
What’s that socket brush you used to clean the rust off of the hub?
Hub buddy - amzn.to/3CSvLDo
Is there a brake force distribution issue that leads to the uneven front to rear wear?
Do the 2014 crosstreks and foresters have the same rear subframe
Do you have any ideas my subaru legacy 2006 awd not working. Only front left is working. Could you give me a detail please.
What about comments on NO new WRX STI?
Is it common for rear pads to wear out faster than the front on Subarus in general? I just did pads on my '17 Forester (front rotors were warped, did front rotors + pads and pads only on the rear, all OEM), and the rear pads were almost as bad as these were in this video. My forester only has 35K miles (bought it used a year ago).
Usually, as a rule, front brakes wear faster than rears.
Could be seized slide pins on the front calipers.
the rear pads prolly got completely ignored.
My '16 Crosstrek has the same problem. Rears wore down to almost nothing in 3 years but the front pads were fine. Caught me by surprise during my NYS inspection
On my 2013 Outback, the rears lasted 70k and the front's rotors were warped and changed at 103k.
I’ve heard you need a specific brake line because of the rubber collars on the pin. This true?
‘17 Subaru forester. 86k miles. When is it time to change brake rotors? Fronts are 24mm thick, rears are 10.5mm. No noise,vibration. Can’t find specs online on wear limit
II HAVE A QUESTION IS THERE A WAY TO KNOW IF I HAVE ROD KNOCK ON A 2006 OUTBACK 2.5 NA THANKS IN ADVANCE
Curious if anyone could help me out, both front bolts that connect the brake line to the suspension are both rusted out and stripped on a 2005 legacy gt I just bought, anyone know what kind of bolt it is?
anyone knows how to find this special abrasive brush that u can use around bolts ? / attachement name / part n / ?
Was that a special wheel stud wire brush socket?
Hub buddy - amzn.to/3JvJ1A0
@@MrSubaru1387 Where has that little guy been my whole life? I love one of the questions, how long will the scrubby part last and the answer was 50 to 60 5-stud rotors with hard use, that's years and years, hell, decades, for us backyard mechanics. 1 bought, delivers on Saturday and I don't even have brake jobs pending.
Thanks, can you give me the nice tool link ? ,using the drill at 8:25 .
amzn.to/3IxEhc8
amzn.to/3IxEhc8
My grandmother's 2017 Subaru outback screem wen she Brakes. Should we be worried?
What size bolts are used to thread into the rotor to unstick it?
It's the same bolt as the brake line bolt on the front strut. M8x1.25 I think.
What caliper spreader tool is that??
Off topic question...what does it mean when you service department tells you you have a head gasket leak in January...and then when you bring it in for axles in February and ask about the leak, they say they didn't see a leak 😶 where do I look to see if I actually have a leak lol
Oh geez. Lol. Look between the heads and the block. Underneath
What is the Rear brake caliper torque specs 2022 subaru outback
1:32 Brake power on steroids 😂😂
Do I dare to put some anti seize on those mounting bracket bolts or is that a no no?
I put it on mine because they were a real bear to loosen. They had 10 years and 103, 000 miles in rust belt driving.
Do you still occasionally turn brake rotors or has this not been a thing that auto mechanics typically stopped doing? My limited understanding is that new rotors are too cheap and an auto tech's time is too valuable.
your head can't be too big you have 4 snaps on your hat engaged i only have 1 usually LOL
Sir/Mam your headlights are fogged over. Idk if you done headlight restoration on your channel but Id like to see your perspective.
I have before
1997 Subaru Outback 150, 000 should I keep it?
Rule number 1 in every aspect of manual labour, do not use you hand as a hammer!
Are they harbor freight jack stands
No.
Don't know why my rears go faster than my fronts on the Legacy....
have you checked the sliding pins in the front?
@@anaphrodisiacxyu yep
Hate to see a car fail a shake test
Haven't touched the brake fluid and it too is over filled. (😢)
Save your hand don’t use it as a hammer.