Nice video. I plan to do a side gate 4x6 install on a side of a rental home I invested in. For the post that attaches to the built gate did you reinforce it w a wood 4x4 for example? I purchased some steel 4x4 inserts to help reinforce the post but they are only 48” and I’m going 6 ft high. Any tips I would greatly appreciate
I use a 8ft aluminum insert inside the post as seen in the video. 6:23 if that’s not what you were asking, You may need to clarify to help me understand.
@@FenceForFlorida th for your reply. Yes I’m referring to vinyl fencing. Forgive me but I didn’t see the insert portion but yes the I purchase a mounting tower kit from Amazon to fix to concrete and then install the vinyl post cover. I wanted to know if it was a good idea to insert a 4x4 in additional to this insert I purchased from amazon would be sufficient for installing a vinyl gate onto once affixed to my concrete border.
The benefit to adding stuff inside of the post is help hold the screws from pulling out and to help the vinyl post from flexing. Your steel inserts should be great but try to make sure it reaches all your screws or at least 75% up to the top of the post for the flex. Also, You will probably need a handful of drill bit to go through that steel
I did the same thing yesterday at my brother's house. Converted his 4x6 Vinyl fence into a gate. I did put a 4x4 piece of Woodson each post. Tried it without the wood at first and it did not feel well secured.
@@fajardoju90thanks so much for the advice. I’m actually gathering all the parts and the steel inserts I’m using as a posts. I actually asked Home Depot today about if they had 4x4 vinyl fence posts as opposed to the 5x5 they have & they didn’t know anything. Therefore I appreciate your reply. My side area is 8foot wide and I want to make a 6 ft gate w a 4x6 vinyl gate. Hope it all comes out ok. Which gate kit do you recommend if any? I may have to order online.
This is a great video and would really help someone who has never installed a fence. My only negative comment is the sidebar was installed in the wrong direction. The diagonal brace should run from the bottom of the hinge side of the gate to the top of the latch side of the gate.
Our company does a sag style. You can do it either way. I’ve done it this way for 8 years and that’s how all 6 companies that I’ve worked with do it and I have 0 problems out of my gates. The engineers may have designed it to go top of latch to the bottom of hinge But I find it works better To hold the weight at the latch rather than trying to push the weight
Question. What lengths are available for vinyl gates? We need a motorized sliding gate. What kind of durability does the vinyl gate have? What happens if it gets hit with a car? Thank you
What type of blade do you use on the circular saw? Just converted a section of vinyl fence into a gate yesterday with no previous experience. It came out ok for being my first. But I used only my multitool for all the cuts. It was time consuming
A high tooth count blade or just flip the blade to cut backwards. Puts a little more load on the saw but will cut without shattering the vinyl. Some additional info: Vinyl shatters easier in colder weather. The faster the saw the less chance for the vinyl to shatter with use of any blade. I use a wood blade on my Milwaukee fuel on every material and it cuts fine. I say this because on my non fuel Milwaukee, it needed a full battery to cut fast enough with any blade.
The dust or the cuts? We throw them away but hoping to make a connection where we could recycle and make our own material. I’ve works with companies that do the same.
@@FenceForFlorida yeah, all the dust and little plastic debris from the cuts. I’m doing some research on a vinyl DIY fence for my property and was just curious about that.
Some people say not to chip away the overpour but I do it if it’s less the foot thick. If it’s thicker or there is something in the way like a utility line, I will just attach the post to the house. For extra security, You could also silicone the screws that are going into your house to help prevent water from getting in. As for concreting next to your foundation, normally old and new concrete will sort of stay separate from each other. It will attach to the old concrete (your foundation), but it is easier to chip off. I see no harm to your house when putting concrete up against the foundation.
If it is not given enough time to set up. Here in Florida the ground is extremely wet and in most cases I would be over watering it in the end. OBVIOUSLY If the ground we’re working with is extremely dry we wet set. Dry pour allows me to pack it firm and immediately work on the FENCE. I’m not laying a foundation here. There is plenty of research on dry vs wet, It really comes down to preference. This is how all fence companies do it in Florida. I have a short video going back to check this fence out after the hurricane that just came through. Go check it out ruclips.net/user/shorts7r4QLHa7A2g?si=msE1y4ZIDekUAwRa
@@FenceForFlorida i tested one against another myself on some paver border that i left exposed and where i could compare later. dry pour crumbles, even from stepping on it probably due to the fact that some parts are already cured while the rest is still dry which is the real life situation. Probably a lot of water has to be used at once for it to work.
Well, I’m not a paver professional, but I’m assuming that that paver border wasn’t underground constantly exposed to wet soil. You’d probably want a nice muddy mix. I’ve been doing fence for eight years now, I promise you more concrete or a little extra strength on your post is not gonna save your fence. it’s all about depth and the ground surrounding all of your posts and concrete
You almost had me convinced. i was removing the other day old posts to replace with vynil and saw same thing. And im not a cement professional it is only a logical speculation. I saw two types of cement base on those posts, hard as rock and crumbly as sandstone. My guess is crumbly one was dry poured. And it happened that gate post had that crumbly base and that post had most movement.
Killer job bro. We build our vinyl pretty much the exact same way
Appreciate it’s buddy!
HEYYYYYY THATS ME. Nice looking fence💯💯👌
He makes installing a fence look so easy!
Nice video. I plan to do a side gate 4x6 install on a side of a rental home I invested in. For the post that attaches to the built gate did you reinforce it w a wood 4x4 for example?
I purchased some steel 4x4 inserts to help reinforce the post but they are only 48” and I’m going 6 ft high.
Any tips I would greatly appreciate
I use a 8ft aluminum insert inside the post as seen in the video. 6:23 if that’s not what you were asking, You may need to clarify to help me understand.
@@FenceForFlorida th for your reply. Yes I’m referring to vinyl fencing. Forgive me but I didn’t see the insert portion but yes the I purchase a mounting tower kit from Amazon to fix to concrete and then install the vinyl post cover.
I wanted to know if it was a good idea to insert a 4x4 in additional to this insert I purchased from amazon would be sufficient for installing a vinyl gate onto once affixed to my concrete border.
The benefit to adding stuff inside of the post is help hold the screws from pulling out and to help the vinyl post from flexing. Your steel inserts should be great but try to make sure it reaches all your screws or at least 75% up to the top of the post for the flex. Also, You will probably need a handful of drill bit to go through that steel
I did the same thing yesterday at my brother's house. Converted his 4x6 Vinyl fence into a gate. I did put a 4x4 piece of Woodson each post. Tried it without the wood at first and it did not feel well secured.
@@fajardoju90thanks so much for the advice. I’m actually gathering all the parts and the steel inserts I’m using as a posts. I actually asked Home Depot today about if they had 4x4 vinyl fence posts as opposed to the 5x5 they have & they didn’t know anything. Therefore I appreciate your reply. My side area is 8foot wide and I want to make a 6 ft gate w a 4x6 vinyl gate. Hope it all comes out ok.
Which gate kit do you recommend if any? I may have to order online.
This is a great video and would really help someone who has never installed a fence.
My only negative comment is the sidebar was installed in the wrong direction. The diagonal brace should run from the bottom of the hinge side of the gate to the top of the latch side of the gate.
Our company does a sag style. You can do it either way. I’ve done it this way for 8 years and that’s how all 6 companies that I’ve worked with do it and I have 0 problems out of my gates. The engineers may have designed it to go top of latch to the bottom of hinge But I find it works better To hold the weight at the latch rather than trying to push the weight
Question. What lengths are available for vinyl gates? We need a motorized sliding gate.
What kind of durability does the vinyl gate have? What happens if it gets hit with a car?
Thank you
so you dont drive the aluminum H post down on the hinge side you just insert it?
The inserts that the company gives me are the same length as the post. I do personally recommend driving them if your ground is soft enough to do so
What type of blade do you use on the circular saw? Just converted a section of vinyl fence into a gate yesterday with no previous experience. It came out ok for being my first. But I used only my multitool for all the cuts. It was time consuming
A high tooth count blade or just flip the blade to cut backwards. Puts a little more load on the saw but will cut without shattering the vinyl.
Some additional info:
Vinyl shatters easier in colder weather.
The faster the saw the less chance for the vinyl to shatter with use of any blade. I use a wood blade on my Milwaukee fuel on every material and it cuts fine. I say this because on my non fuel Milwaukee, it needed a full battery to cut fast enough with any blade.
What do you do with all the small plastic material waist left by the saw?
The dust or the cuts? We throw them away but hoping to make a connection where we could recycle and make our own material. I’ve works with companies that do the same.
@@FenceForFlorida yeah, all the dust and little plastic debris from the cuts. I’m doing some research on a vinyl DIY fence for my property and was just curious about that.
Where’d you get your vinyl
Homeland vinyl products
@@FenceForFlorida thank you
Are there issues with setting a post next to the house? Anything to avoid? I'm concerned about pouring concrete next to my foundation. Thanks!
Some people say not to chip away the overpour but I do it if it’s less the foot thick. If it’s thicker or there is something in the way like a utility line, I will just attach the post to the house. For extra security, You could also silicone the screws that are going into your house to help prevent water from getting in. As for concreting next to your foundation, normally old and new concrete will sort of stay separate from each other. It will attach to the old concrete (your foundation), but it is easier to chip off. I see no harm to your house when putting concrete up against the foundation.
@@FenceForFlorida thanks!
What part of Florida?
NCF
cement that is poured dry and then set is not same, it crumbles after it's set
If it is not given enough time to set up. Here in Florida the ground is extremely wet and in most cases I would be over watering it in the end. OBVIOUSLY If the ground we’re working with is extremely dry we wet set. Dry pour allows me to pack it firm and immediately work on the FENCE. I’m not laying a foundation here. There is plenty of research on dry vs wet, It really comes down to preference. This is how all fence companies do it in Florida. I have a short video going back to check this fence out after the hurricane that just came through. Go check it out ruclips.net/user/shorts7r4QLHa7A2g?si=msE1y4ZIDekUAwRa
@@FenceForFlorida i tested one against another myself on some paver border that i left exposed and where i could compare later. dry pour crumbles, even from stepping on it probably due to the fact that some parts are already cured while the rest is still dry which is the real life situation. Probably a lot of water has to be used at once for it to work.
Well, I’m not a paver professional, but I’m assuming that that paver border wasn’t underground constantly exposed to wet soil. You’d probably want a nice muddy mix. I’ve been doing fence for eight years now, I promise you more concrete or a little extra strength on your post is not gonna save your fence. it’s all about depth and the ground surrounding all of your posts and concrete
You almost had me convinced. i was removing the other day old posts to replace with vynil and saw same thing. And im not a cement professional it is only a logical speculation. I saw two types of cement base on those posts, hard as rock and crumbly as sandstone. My guess is crumbly one was dry poured. And it happened that gate post had that crumbly base and that post had most movement.