12V vs 24V Cummins: Which One is Better?
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- Опубликовано: 22 авг 2024
- Article: dustrunnersaut...
Both engines have massive potential if you were to stick a larger turbo on them and both can serve as great tow vehicles or daily drivers. Deciding which one is better really depends on what you value most. While the 12-valve is a little bit more reliably with the mechanical P7100 pump, tuning it requires modified parts of the injection pump. The 24-valve might not be as insanely reliable, but it’s still very reliable and can easily be tuned with a handheld tuner.
If you’re buying a truck with the goal of making huge power numbers, the 12-valve might be a little bit better, but if you want something simple for the street which can easily be tuned, the 24-valve might be better.
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Pls add duramax
Hands down 12valves were the best! Used in everything from heavyequipment, to water pumps.
Extremely reliable, and durable.
So we’re the 24v
@@jakebrich669 yes but the 12 valves are still running without even on wrench laid to them. They put that motor in farm tractors combines Thrasher's water pumps generators you name it. The 12 valve has a heart of gold I can't say that for the 24
My opinion a 12 valve sounds better plus being quieter in the cab
I’ve only got one issue with 12v and 24v the fuel pumps and injection pumps poor design
Dallas Korpan the 24v yes not the 12v
Those trucks in the vid need to get rid of those low profile car tires.
Yup its gay af
If you lift your truck, putt the proper size tire & wheels on it. Not those low profile garbage things.
Their money their truck
My car sidewalls are more manly. I can fit truck tires on it with a little trimming
Might as well hang a rubber ball sack from the trailer hitch...
I think over all the 12v is better but both are great 👍
Love my 12v
@Chris Farley no not on the killer dowel pin they make fix kits or you can make your own there is a bolt right next to it so all you need is thin piece of metal and cut or grind it into a tear drop shape and drill a hole in the bottom of it and put the point over the pin or you can do what some do and just remove the pin if it is almost out it is not needed when I do mine I'll see if it has moved if not I'll leave it in with the fix if it has moved I'll pull it out. Yes a 12v should pull that reliably 👍
i have a 6.7 but I would agree👍🏻
Chris Farley +1 for the 12 valve, bad ass engine will last a lifetime as long as you take care of it
Chris Farley hey just letting you know I bought a 1997 12 valve Cummins and it has 262,000 miles and I just did the killer dowel pin. It consists of taking out the radiator, serpentine belt, the clutch fan, oil fill tube, a few small accessories, and than the front timing cover. Than after that it’s real simple with the tab kit you just make sure the dowel pin is in the hole all the way flush and there’s a threaded hole right next to it that you lay the tab over and a bolt will bolt it right In, 18 ft lbs of torque on it, red lock tite, and she’s bullet proof
The way the old 12 valves idle is just pure therapy man. One of the smoothest diesels you can get your hands on.
Therapy? Lol sounds like a school bus. That brings back a lot of childhood trauma.
@@brarautorepairs There's two kinds of people I suppose hahahaah
12 valve...period. Most durable Diesel engine ever put in a pick up
I have a 24v Cummins which is a Mexican block. I love the truck but I'd prefer a 12v. Just because it's easier to work on, no electronics and gets better fuel mileage
How could one argue, they’re both Cummins! What a grunt of an engine. All my vehicles are diesels now!
The 24 valves are trash. After two lift pumps, an injection pump, a bad ecm, and a engine fire later, I'll never own a 24 valve again and I don't think I'll fully ever trust a Cummins
Nicholas Burch the first thing I did was to put an Air Dog Raptor in mine, keep the FP up, should be ok, also always run an additive. An ECM could go bad on anything. New trucks have 40 computers. I’m all for keeping my VP44 truck going.
@@detroitdiesel-vu3ig well damn
12 valve and standard transmission ! CHANGE VIDEO… please NO Mall crawlers!
I would always pick the 12v. It's true when you say they don't make them like they used to. Mechanical reliability in any scenario. Sure the 24v is easier to do upgrades on, but I like having peace of mind with my vehicles
Why is it easier to do upgrades on?
@@jaydenherrera6970 Better aftermarket for the 24V.
Had them both and as a great service truck pulling heavy loads I had no preference. Both were very economical for work trucks and totally reliable.
I have both 89 12V and a 01 24V my 12V has way over one million miles and the engine has never been worked on other then water pump change. I'm new to the 24V and am waiting to put a load on it and see how it performs. The main difference I've noticed is in the automatic transmission. My 12v has a 3 speed automatic and will hall anything and is extremely fast. The 24v with over drive is better for the daily driver. Allowing me to get up to faster speed with less RPMs which uses less fule and lower spool ups. I'm not sure how it will pull. I live 3500 in elevation and drive my 24v everyday. When I turn the over drive off this monster will climb a hill no problem but no faster then 55-60 mph. My 12v will pull a hill without a load at any speed. I will probably not buy a newer truck. Living in California with emission laws and all the equipment they put on the exhaust slowing the flow. I drive a new flat bed at work with a Cummins engine and the performance is horrible. Most of the time the gas pedal is to the floor. 89-01 good performance trucks anything affter I would stay away from.
What 3 speed transmission is in the 12 valve?
@@vinoewhines 47RH more than likely. Just a hydraulic version of the 47RE.
I'm taking the one with 12 fewer moving parts 😂
On my farm I've owned ALL variants of 12v and 24v and, the 1st gen 12v are the best and most reliable of them all if we're discussing just the engine. Simpler is always better. The performance guys have their 2nd gens which are also reliable trucks but easier to get power from. I use my trucks to work and daily drive. Once you delete the PCM and shut off solenoid you only need the battery to start them. They'll pull anything that any other diesel will, just in stock form it will take you longer to get there.
Same. I drive a 2nd gen 12v 5 speed short cab dually. I live in dallas and drive 2 hours a day in heavy traffic. I like the 2nd gen because it's more comfortable. Mines almost mint with ice cold ac and radio. I do have to turn radio up because of how loud the engine is. I have it making 400hp and like to go fast
@@RiggyRonnie Haha one thing you can definitely say about 2nd gen and newer trucks they definitely are more comfortable riding than the 1st gens. 1st and 2nd gens is where it's at for me. After that the government ruined diesels requiring so much emissions garbage especially with the 6.7 it has destroyed the reliability and fuel mileage we enjoy with our trucks.
@Chris Farley Should be. No computer work needed though youd need a pretty heavy duty engine hoist as these engines tend to weight around 1200 lbs. They sell tranny adapters of all sorts the 12v seems to be the most commonly swapped diesel
@Chris Farley I totally understand your situation my friend and I'm lucky enough to have a minivan for the family hauling but I know many can only afford their to have their truck to do everything. If you really, REALLY want a 1st or 2nd gen unfortunately if you want a ''mega cab'' for the family you're going to either have to find someone selling a converted truck (there were NO factory 1st gen 4 door trucks sadly and very few 2nd gens) OR buy a truck and have it converted. This still would be cheaper than doing an engine swap into a newer truck because with each generation, tons of electronics and emissions equipment was added. My recommendation is to either go with a new truck and if you're in a state/country that you don't have to get the vehicle inspected for emissions do a delete (it's still a federal law violation, but those corrupt crooks violate laws daily so screw'em I say! lol) The delete will make the 6.7 very damn reliable comparable to cost of an older truck but if a delete is not an option I'd look for a 3rd gen truck. Here's a brief description what you'd get per year and note the newer, the MORE likely you can find a nice big cab.
03 SO - don't see too many. not sure of power ratings maybe close to 265hp and 440 torque. Nothing wrong with the truck/motor combo.
03-04 HO - 305 hp and 555 torque. Most like because the motor is very responsive to hp upgrades, and they did not come with a catalytic converter.
04.5-05 - 325 hp and 600 torque. Again very upgradeable, easy to add lots of power, but came with a catalytic converter which seem to fall off anyway.
06-07- 325 hp and 610 torque. Same as above, for the most part. Just newer grille and headlights.
07.5-08 - 6.7 liter 350 hp and 650 torque. Some say the fuel mileage is not as good as the 5.9s because of the DPF, and EGR emissions regulations. Other than that great trucks.
Good luck friend, mo matter your choice if you do the usual checks when buying a used vehicle (blow by check, proper maintanence check) you're getting an engine that can last a lifetime!
@Chris Farley I think the best option for you would be to buy a Ford 7.3 with a crew cab. The 7.3 is just as reliable as the 5.9, and you could easily find a mid-90's F350 crew cab around the $8k range. The 6.0 is actually a great engine as long as it's deleted and bulletproofed, or it's an '05 or newer. My dad has had both: an '03 and an '05 6.0. We noticed problems with the '03 as early as a year after buying the truck. It kept dying the whole way out to our ranch. But the '05 has had no issues. When we had another '03 6.0 and the engine blew, we looked twice into swapping a 12v into the truck. The conversion easily added up to over $17K. So we decided that, since the trans had low miles and you could do more to improve a 6.0 than you could a 6.4, we'd just install a new 6.0 in it.
This is the video I’ve been looking for as someone looking into a Cummins engine. I thank you.
Stance = Looks like whomever ordered the wheels on the trucks in the video didn't know how to use a tape measure.......
I HAVE MY 96 RAM 2500 5 SPEED 12V CUMMINS WITH 1.200.345 MILES STILL RUNNING LIKE NEW
Hell yea! Awesome s**t right there!
Upload a video about it I’ll be willing to see that beast!
Damn thats o awesome.. my 03 f150 v6 4.2 stick shift had 455.000 but is about to die.. I notice, that's why I ended up getting a 00 ram.
my 97 Rame has 2,197,682 miles and still running like new
ALF DOGG bull shit man
I bought an 02 new so I'm partial to the 24v as it now has 287000 plus miles it's the most reliable truck I've owned still running strong I have a brother in law who has the 12v he has had good luck with it very dependable motors !
In fairness to the earlier ve trucks, their dynamic timing does make them nicer to daily, and their low end fuelling makes for greater torque numbers. with the right front cover, 12-14mm adapters, and non ic delivery valve holders the ve can also be fairly easily swapped onto a 24v, though getting the timing right is trickier than it is for the 12v. Similarly many have swapped from vp44's to p pumps when they either want to get past the 7-800whp limit, or get tired of replacing vp44's.
I personally prefer the 04 1/2 to 07 24v H.O. engine. Reliable, powerful, and amazing fuel mileage. My dads 05 2500 auto had roughly 350k before needing injectors, but it was getting around 26-30 mpg empty, and about 18 towing our armored car.
im planning on replacing my 550k mile 12v with a freshened up 24v. difference is ill being using my 12v timing cover, and p-pump on the 24v. then ill have the motor cummins should have came out with.
nathan campbell no difference between tow other than head lol
@@codyyellott117 better flowing head would reduce egt's, giving the same engine a better WORKING power. I solved my towing issues though. Sold the ram and bought a freightliner.
My daily is a 99 Ram 3500 with the big booty, but I also have a 12v that runs perfectly but has no title. I love both because they’re amazingly reliable. Luckily I purchased my 99 24v from a very knowledgeable man who tried his best to make it as reliable as a 12v. She looks brand new and just needs a few more things before she’ll be on par with the 12v In terms of reliability. But for the average Joe who is looking to purchase ether a 12v or 24v Cummins it just depends on what you personally look for in a truck. Just remember that both will probably require some immediate maintenance after you purchase it. Also try not to use starting fluid on these engines because it’ll cause some major damage. My buddy’s work truck is a 12v which ran beautifully but after a winter of starting fluid, the truck will only start with the starting fluid no matter what the temperature is plugged in or not. So just treat these engines with love and respect and they’ll give you all the miles you can throw at them. Drive safe people.
1997 dually 12 valve owner here no issues 5th wheel puller
If you can't turn up a 12v for free we can't be friends.
amen to that!!!
Better video would've been a comparison of P-pumps, VP44s, and CP3s, the trucks differ greatly with the injection system. A 3rd gen 03 HO 5.9 CR isn't the same as an 06 5.9 CR internals changed, HO 03 has J jet oil piston coolers, 17.2:1 compression for 305/555, different piston bowl design than the later 04.5+, tuned from factory differently, earlier HOs were only offered in a manual NV5600, earlier standard transmission HOs had a single/solid mass fly wheel instead of a dual, G56 from Mercedes started replacing the NV series standard transmissions at 04.5, early 3rd gen HOs had no cats or emissions systems as we know them today on modern diesels, 3rd gen trucks now started using AAM axles instead of the Danas, etc.
Great info! 03s also have a 360 degree thrust bearing, which I believe is unique to that one year as far as common rails go. You’re right about the emissions equipment too. Additionally, 98.5 to 2002 second gen 24 valves didn’t require catalytic converters either because they were, at the time, compliant with federal emissions requirements without them. They instead had resonators. Same thing with the 03 to 04.5 common rails (non California versions), no catalytic converters from the factory. The 12 valves require catalytic converters, to be legal that is. This is the reason you can still easily buy turbo back exhaust systems in the US for the aforementioned years. Other years you’ll only find cat back systems.
You could get early 3rd gen HO's with an automatic, it was the 2nd gen HO that were manual only and they were still putting NV5600's behind the HO engine for 2005 models.
I like my 12v p-pump I smile every time she fires up
I prefer the 12V. The exhaust ports on the 24V are directly beside each other, and the valve seats crack as a result of the heatsoak. That's not a problem with the 12V. I learned that from Rich DeBoss
Clear and concise video. Not enough of that on here these days IMO.
Thanks for the info
I hear the 12 valves are the best but my 2006 24 valve is the best truck I have ever had. Never let it see salt and keep the filters new. No problems 😊
Less electronics...more reliable...12valve is the boss!...great vid!
Just found your channel a couple of weeks ago and it is excellent. I use the truck for hunting off-road and as a daily driver...My next project is a Jeep Grand Waggoneer with a 12 valve 5.9...used for the same thing...I appreciate your videos please keep them up as I learn a lot about stuff I have never tried.
My '02 2500 (VP44 pump and all) HO with NV5600 six speed transmission and Dana 80 rear end is the best truck I've ever owned (like hands down!). Once the boost pump issue is addressed and the VP pump gets fed a steady 10-20psi it's about as reliable as anything out there. There definitely were issues with the boost pump/injector pump system on the early 24v trucks. Relocating the Carter boost pump or replacing it with a FASS or Airdog pretty much fixes that problem and it's a fix you can do yourself. Coming up on 170K miles on my rig and have no thoughts of ever replacing it. JMO!
I hear you. Had an 01 2500 with a 47re. Would run a little rough right after startup but smoothed out quickly. Took it in to the dealer and they " could not duplicate". Moved 1300 miles away towing a trailer and it ran fine. Bout a 6 months later it quit. Different dealer replaced the fuel pump. So that's what that noise is that I was supposed to be hearing before start. Ran for over a year with a bad lift pump. A year later I had to replace the VP44 when it failed. Learned what that shreider valve is for ( checking fuel pressure ). Did that at every oil change from then on. Everyone has to tell me how crappy the Dodge auto transmissions are. Mine had 205K on it when I sold it. Never had problem one with it. Filter and fluid change every year. Sold it to a friend so I still see it driving every day hauling his trailer. I did educate him on checking the fuel pressure into the VP44. Even gave him my pressure gauge.
Now I'm down to just my '06 5.9 HO common rail. Standard cab long bed 4wd. It has the 48re with 155K and has given me no troubles although I would like a manual. This one I will never sell
Exactly! I have the same HD NV5600 Cummins with an AirDog Raptor transfer pump, non 53 block, '00 model 4x4. It's basically a single tire 1 ton truck. Had it since '02, never selling. Love it!
Went ahead and copped an abandoned squarebody gmc dually. Cant wait to have it 12v swapped 🙏🙏
How is that going for you?
@@drewbot69 so far I’ve been dailying it for work since it has a dump bed. I plan on buying a d250 for a donor engine and a oem gm dually bed
I don't see any "trucks" in this video.
Note perfectly good vision. All I see is wannabe
All I see is, trucks trying to be a pickup. I bet if you look at, the rig that tows these mall crawlers, it is a real truck.
Lol, not to bright. That's why I said, "if you looked." you dont see a tow rig, because they are doing a video of these wannabe pickups cruising the city streets. Lol
Then why are you still responding? Good day sir, have a splendid friday! Keep burning dinosaurs.
Mall crawlers
I'm getting ready to convert my 24v to a P-pump and im going to replace the automatic with a NV5600.
Did you do the conversion?
I have a 2001 24 valve with 468000 miles on it, original pain , no holes in the body and the paint is still on the underneath here on the east coast of Canada and drives and sounds sweet, just saying.
I'd honestly take either one. Drove a 24v for nearly a decade. Only issue we had was a pickup tube falling off in a fuel filter. Ironically when purchased the previous owner went through three injection pumps. Could've easily been a shop sabotage for repeat work and a lowball offer to purchase the truck. I do know someone who is notorious for pushing trucks beyond their limits that swears by the 12v. Being a Dodge guy I love a variety of things about them fron old to new. No rust and simplicity is a win/win to me.
12v for me
P-pump 24v for the W
I'm pretty dumb on the subject, but can you do this?
350,000 miles on my 53 block Cummins
355,000 on mine still runs great.
285,000 on my 2005 5.9 24V
i have a 1989 D350 12v cummins and a 2002 3500 24v cummins and both trucks are super reliable really only upside that ive noticed to my 02 over my 89 is my 02 picks up speed faster but it does have slightly bigger injectors
About a month ago I got a 95 that sat for over a year. Started right up. The body and interior has seen better decades but have to love that engine. I've already tackled the KDP issue and replace the water pump at the same time.(2 BOLTS!) Been driving it to work and back when someone needs the car and damm I still love running a standard trans. It has just less than 200k on it and I'm guessing the engine is seriously clean internally. First oil change I used Rotella t6 and 3 weeks and about 800 miles later it's still clear.
Love my 99 Cummings so much I converted my Fords to Cummings engines, 10x better than a power stroke with amazing smoothness, reliability and economy. The Dodge truck is a rusted out POS with steering issues and fragile transfer cases but that motor is the most impressive engine I have ever owned. NEVER looking back. with a small programmer, 75 hp I put 75 hp injectors in as well........I removed the injectors back to stock......No truck weighing 7klbs should pull a 60 ft double patch of rubber with 33in tires..it scared the shit out of me how fast that was as those trucks cannot match with stopping power....
But wich one has more economy the 12v our the 24valve?
Cummins. No G. Get it right
We're supposed to believe you've worked on these and still call it a Cummings
Since I have 4 12 valves I will vote for the 12 valve!!
The featured trucks should have been more stockish
Or more work/mud truck like not these pavement princesses
Why?
@@farmerboy9029 they have the same engines he was talking about so it doesnt matter
@@mryeast1538 because they look stupid and don't go well with the message of the video.
@@JohnButler350 the message of the video is which one is better 12v or 24v. Not which build is best
id love to have a diesel dodge truck but i do have a cummins its a KTA525 in my pete
Ok I watched your 3 videos of Ford Powerstrokes, Chevy Duramax and this one. 12v vs 24v. I own an early 94 second gen 12v. I get better mpg than any other diesel PU owner I have ever talked to. My old girl has 400k miles on it. We have replaced lots of ancillary parts on it, clutch, starter, water pump....etc....the worst part of a first year gen2 Dodge is the front suspension and steering gear. But add a cold air intake and a 4 inch turbo back exhaust and she runs so good.
I recently sold my VE pump 12 valve and bought a 3rd gen common rail 24 valve 5.9. The 12 valve was simple but I like the newer one much better.
Got a 12 v and wouldn’t trade it for a new one
Same here. My '96 ain't much to look at, but she gets the job done and is just fun to drive.
AMAZING Engines 12 or 24 valve. I own an 05 24 valve Cummins in a Dodge truck, 376,000 Kim’s and have only done a water pump. AMAZINGLY Reliable, LOVE MY CUMMINS.
When I die..you can find me in my 12v
Both good engines. The problem with either is people trying to push to much horse power out of these virtually small block engines. I drive a early 91, with slight mods. By today's standards it's a dog. But it could out tow all of it competition at the time of production. No idea the miles it has. Was around 200k around turn of the century. That's when odometer stopped working. Transfer case, transmission, and rear differential are all smooth wore out. But it still gets me from a to b. Pour one quart of oil in @ 3500, drain and refill with fresh @ 5000.
My 2000 Ram 2500 24 valve has 650,000 trouble free miles on it and is still going strong.
Just bought a 97 dodge ram 3500 12v with a 5 speed and I can’t wait to save some more money and make more power💪
I have own both a 97' 12 valve 5 speed manual NV4500 and an 03' common rail with a 6 speed nv5600, both lightly turned up. While I do think I would go with the 12 valve motor and pump any day over the common rail (or god forbid a vp44) the 03' truck is head and shoulders over the 97' truck. The 03 has 4 doors!!!! 12 valves were only available with 4 doors (actually half doors in the back) for 1/2 a model year in 98'. Good luck finding that unicorn. It makes life so much better with a family having doors. The 12 valve steers like mushy poop. The 03' steers and rides a LOT better. Also the power delivery with a higher stock rpm limit and extra gear makes the truck much more usable. In the 12 valve the wide gap between 3rd and 4th gear plus the defuleing at 2600-2800 rpm made it very hard to get into 4 gear when going up hills and pulling loads. With and extra gear and extra rpm in the 03 the power is always usable. With $ in all those things are changeable but for low budget builds I think the common rail 24 valve is by far an easier truck to live with. On the other hand I don't buy the argument that the electronic tuneability makes power gains easier. On the 12 valve you can almost double the power just by turning wrenches and spending almost $0. Good electronic tuners PLUS good tuning aren't cheep especially for the 03-04.5. My 12 valve tickled me more than my current 24 valve common rail. The 12 valve sound cant be beat! I will always miss it but the 24 valve common rail is a much better truck for me.
12 valve is my choice
Have 94 12val just bought 99 24 val
Was interested in having 12 val cked out might do a switch and sell 24 val
Your video was very informative.
Thanks
12v hands down in my eyes
I have a 95 RWD 2500 12V with 130K and have had only one issue and that was the shutoff solenoid dying. I run a pre-Luber and Shell Rotella full synthetic since the first oil change. I fixed the KDP issue two years ago. I have only had the valves adjusted one time at 50K and can't find anyone I trust to do it again. The dealer is a hack so if anyone knows of a 12V expert mechanic East of Cleveland, please let me know. Truck runs strong and consistently delivers a combined 20MPG. Truck was rust proofed when new and still looks great. I went to a 190 degree thermostat that made a world of difference (Sorry I lost part number) I purchased from Cummins parts depot.
Very informative video with great comparison on 12v and 24v. Thank you for leaving all the fluff out!
12 v. The p-pump on the 12v is lubricated by engine oil which ensures a long life the vp44 on the 24v is lubricated by diesel fuel only. If you get a drop in pressure and don't know you will burn it up because it isn't getting lubricated. That's why many people install a lift pump with the 24v as insurance.
I don’t have my drivers license yet, but I still like the 12v over the 24v because we only have 1 12v and 5 24v and the 12v has never given up on us. Also it sounds pretty bad ass.
Which one is louder?
12 just sounds better
Where is my 24v guys at I know y’all are out there
Yessir
7.3 IDI with Mechanical injection never gets any love.
I have an 06 single cab 4x4 6 speed and its really a good truck. I would trade it for a '96 or '97 12v of the same build without even thinking twice lol. I do think the 2006 truck itself is a better truck than the 1996, but a P-pump 12v will always be king in my book
I just wanted to watch this to ask is the 24v better for blowing smoke or the 12 V
I’m building a 24v with a Ppump so I got the best of both.
REXONATER70 same with me man🤙🏽 01 ppump 5spd
12 valve all the way, I have a bone stock 12 and a 24 with a bigger turbo.... I'll take the 12 all day long.
Have both a 96 12v and a 01 24v both are duallys w/ 5 speeds my 12v is my baby absolutely love it it’s my daily driver and main work truck. My 24v is in the process of becoming my welding rig mainly because parts are more available for it if something does go wrong whereas the 12v has to usually wait on parts to come in but is easily much more reliable it’s basically a trade off
The 12v Cummins is the best diesel ever put into a pickup truck.
The VE trucks are the most reliable in my experience, but they make less power of course. Great work trucks if you don't feel the need to make double or more stock HP.
The engine is fantastic. Too bad the truck itself was inferior in build and materials quality to GM and Ford.
Less filling! Tastes great! We'll never hear the end of this
If you can bypass the distributor on a diesel engine and run the glow plugs all the time while the engine is running you get a much higher efficiency rating. Try this and run it on the tester.
Got a 95 12v single cab 4x4 manual transmission, this engine rocks.. simple, solid, powerful, and good mpg, sounds really nice, but the truck sucks, it's a little uncomfortable, the brakes are really bad, and got a 2003 24v on a crew cab, 4x4, manual transmission, the engine is good, more powerful, but.. but.. sometimes it stall ugly, it's more expensive to take care, changing sensors it's expensive, gets good mpg too, better than my 2001 7.3, the truck it's better , a lot better, more comfortable, better braking, better steering, better Truck by a lot of things...
If my budget was low... And short... I choose the 12v first, then a 7.3 (from 99 to 2003 ) and the the 24v cummins from 2003 to 2005 I think.
I had a 94 Ram but totalled it. I've got a 2003 that needs to be overhauled because of blow by. My 2006 is still running great. I think the automatic transmission needs a little work but it's okay though.
24v is better more power and more modern also still sounds amazing like the 12v bc
I guess I would rather have the 12v for durability. It still gets a good amount of power and I want something that would last a long time
Ringling brothers barnum and bailey approves of those wheels and wheel well lights. They put clowns in one and ran it around inside the stadium trying to bring back the circus many times. Also Justin Beiber approves.
I chose the 12 valves, I have two of them would never trade
Both are good I prefer 24V mine has 285,000 miles on it 2005 5.9 and still runs amazing, have the powermax cr tuner on it and 90hp injectors and runs great no problems. All opinions tho but I go with 24
Get the beat of both worlds, P-Pump or VE pump swap a 24 valve. Another thing to note is that the lift pump on the 24 valve is known for a high failure rate, then it knocks out the VP44 injection pump. Fix is an aftermarket lift pump (Air Dog, FASS, etc), or just ditch the VP for a P7100 or VE. The P7100 also lacks dynamic timing over the VE pump, which means lesser fuel economy.
What is the power potential with a ve pump swap on 24valve. I assume ve pump less desirable and easier to find?
I got an 1988 f250 with a 24v 5.9 all mechanical so idk if the 12v is all that
Great info video!
Do what you want with your pickup but you'll get better performance out of actual rubberbands than some of the tires I've seen in this.
I’ve owned lots of 12 valves. Never a 24 valve, the less electronics the better in my opinion. As far as v-pump and p-pump, I like the v-pumps
Serious question, do stances trucks ever go offroad? I feel like going down a dirt road without fender flares would absolutely shred your paint.
why did we ignore the common rail 5.9 in this comparrison? ...thats what I have. Was curious what the consensus was about it.
I've seen more 12 valve trucks with higher mileage, hence the fact that they're older obviously. 24 valve for on the fly performance.
Great video! You got to the point and described both of there differences to a T. I know where an old dodge 2500 is sitting in the back of a yard. I pass all the time going home. Not sure if it's a 12 or 24, but I'm stopping by. Remember in terminator, computers are our silent enemy. Lol
Man you really found the goofiest cummins powered parking lot queens you could for the b roll huh?😆
Now that i finally have my 96 12v 5speed, I totally understand the rave about the Ppump. Ppumps are the shit! 12v definitely more fun. Only pro of the 24v to me is easy tuning and that's pretty much it
Nice video great information and what to keep a eye on keep up the good work
My 24 valve has never given me a problem but the 48re transmission behind it has been a nightmare
Mike Ferguson yeah I recommend putting in the ats gm governor pressure solenoid from throughbread diesel I’m about to do that and with make shifting so much better and can handle higher fluid and like pressure, really the 48re is the only thing I’ve had to replace parts like the governor solenoid
Great video man very helpful 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
My dream is a 24 valve with a p pump conversion and the y turbo. I don’t need all the power just enough.
12 valve,building one now
very good information thank you! 2002 24v 5th wheel puller no problems here good engine
The trucks in this video are why people hate dodge
Hey thanks for the great information. I'm looking at putting together a Frummins. You seem like the right guy to ask so I will ask the question. I am looking for the ultimate in fuel efficiency in the engine and transmission combination . Our criteria is fuel efficiency with Towing around 10000 lb. When I tow my typical maximum speed is 65. I currently have a 2016 EcoDiesel which really does a great job but after doing the Servicing and understanding that it is ridiculously expensive to maintain, I'm not really happy with Chrysler over this. I was thinking about buying a new truck put the Cummins 6 7 bit have heard some horror stories on the new engines and the cost of Maintenance as well. I'm just not into throwing money into the toilet but I could probably put it together better myself. Suggestions?
Have you decided on anything yet? My goals are the same as yours...A lot of 10,000 lb towing with fuel efficiency. My build plan is a Ford crew cab with a 12 valve Cummins. If I can find one with manual trans, the truck should get a minimum of 4mpg better than a Powerstroke with auto trans. I'll be driving 100k per year so that extra 4mpg is worth $6,000/yr in fuel savings.
We used this 12v 6BT on ship as our emergency generator engine.