Belt Grinder FINISHED! Wiring the Motor and VFD - Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
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Belt Grinder Playlist: • 2x72 Belt Grinder
Today we're going to finish the belt grinder. This 2x72" belt grinder is my own design that I've been working on for about a year in my spare time. All we have left is to wire up the 3-phase motor and VFD, get it configured, and take it for a test run. Oh, and install the overpriced optional power switch, and figure out why the belt is wobbling.
Tools used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
KBAC-27D Variable Frequency Drive (Amazon*): amzn.to/3XES2Or
2HP 3-Phase 56C Motor (Amazon*): amzn.to/3K83230
Knipex Automatic Wire Stripper (Amazon*): amzn.to/3aFM8oF
Bondhus Metric Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3eqZzwb
Bondhus SAE Hex Key Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3h9bJLZ
Knipex Pliers Wrench 3-Piece Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2ruzS8m
Craftsman SAE Ratchet Wrench Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3DR6Txc
Craftsman Metric Ratchet Wrench Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/3JOhiOf
Wera Kraftform Screwdriver Set (Amazon*): amzn.to/2UzK6CL
Norton Blaze 2x72 Belt Assortment (Amazon*): amzn.to/3x4GgkX
Red Label Abrasives 2x72 Zirconia Belts (Amazon*): amzn.to/40D334L
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons...
01:00 Installing the motor
02:55 Installing the drive wheel
06:04 Mounting the VFD
08:11 Wiring the VFD and the motor
15:15 First test run
18:30 First test grind!
21:34 Installing the power switch
23:53 Fixing the belt wobble
26:02 Conclusion
Looks like the Amazon seller swapped out the motor in the same product listing, invalidating the link in the description. I have updated it. Hopefully this doesn't happen again.
Still links to a single phase motor! I tried posting a link to the same motor you used but it seems YT didn't like that...
If you knew a guy with sheet metal tools and skills, you should make a spark chute that funnels sparks into a bucket or at least away from your tool box drawers. They make a LOT of gritty mess quick fast in a hurry.
I find a little plastic container with some water placed beneath the table does a great job of both catching sparks and provides a handy dunk tank to cool down hot workpieces.
James knows a guy that knows a guy
@@daveash9572 I think Chris was referring to the sparks hitting the handles of the drawers right underneath the grinder - I can’t imagine James not being bothered by this so I am looking forward to seeing how James addresses it 😊
Yeah he has them. Guess he just doesn't want to call that part 4 😉
I was also going to suggest a shallow pan under the front end of the belt grinder, not only to contain the grit & removed metal, but also to keep from the hot sparks burning the surface of his nice white table - it won’t set fire to it, but James will eventually have a burned pitted area right under the table.
My thought on the switch is that especially outside the US and home shops an E-stop switch would be mandatory and safer and negate the need for the toggle switch.
Also for machine integration where you would have a rotary master switch (mandatory in Europe for industrial stuff)
I would think an e-stop would wire into the VFD, rather than shutting it off completely, so that it could do its braking thing.
every piece of equipment - especially in a cramped home shop for people working alone - needs a BIG RED BUTTON that can be reached by the user, crawling on the ground, so they can shut off the motor and scream for help.
Just a tip from a long time knife maker. Don't leave your belts under tension for long periods of time. They will stretch.
James, one tip; buy a proper crimping tool for your ferrules and spade connectors. The simple sheet metal one that you're using doesn't make a secure connection. You can tug the wire out quite easily. I started with the same cheapo tool and had connections fail on me because of the poor crimping action. Tyco, Wago, Weidmuller al make good ones. Thank you for sharing this nice build. All the best, Job
Yes the decent hand tools are ratchet ones so that a reliable minimum force and deformation of the terminal is achieved. Of course, the terminal needs to be matched to the tool to achieve this.
Nice series. Looking forward to part 4: catching sparks and keeping the rest of the workshop clean.
As a knifemaker I very much appreciate a well built 2x72. I don't know if you want to fiddle around with it, but if you do, Michael Walker (knifemaking hall of fame and high end machinist like yourself) swapped his gas spring for a very small pneumatic cylinder with a low pressure regulator hooked on it. Apparently it provides constant tension even when the belt stretches and contrasts the bouncing that often happen with some belts when you are removing lots of material. Again, love the grinder and the aesthetics of it as well!!
Add a dust catcher below the table to collect the dust and protect your tool box
Delighted watching you regularly. Thank you for the clear story and for showing up authentically. The maker's work speaks for itself. What I love particularly is the quality of your narration and connection to your experience.
Awesome! I find with my belt grinder, increasing belt tension quite a significant amount over what you have there really makes a difference. I want to say mine is about 40lb. Also when researching, I saw recommendations to only have a crown on one wheel as the crown is responsible for centering the belt on the wheel. It looks like you have two crowned wheels, and it looks like the peaks of the crowns on your drive and tracking wheels are not aligned so I wonder if they are fighting each other? It's possible the cheaper belts are lighter so more flexibility means this effect is lessened?
Looking at 15:15 we can see that the drive wheel and the tension wheel are both crowned. As for alignment I really can't tell from the video. The important thing is the width of the wheels. They were aligned by the outer edge, so if they are all the same width the crown should be aligned, at least by width. The tracking mechanism of the tension wheel does however make me wonder about axial alignment.
Also I can't shake the feeling that the tensioner looks like it is wider than the drive wheel. But this can obviously be perspective and a illusion caused by the drastic difference in diameter of these wheels. But someone who has bought the plans should be able to confirm if the drive and tension wheels are supposed to be the same width or not.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 yes the tensioner definitely looks much wider to me!
I have strong opinions on wago connectors. I think they are the best invention in electronics for a long time. Maybe not the current handling capacity of a block of brass, but as good as a terminal block and much easier to use.
Yeah I just used some while adding 240V outlets in the shop. I used the lever-type, which seem much more robust than the push-in type that they also make.
You have a perfect unit design and shape perfect
It must be very satisfying to use such a nice machine that you've designed and built yourself! Well done!!!
I love it when a plan comes together ❣️
The vfd would usually have a seperate main power switch on a panel and the controller that turns the vfd on an off would also be a seperate control button so a power switch on the vfd isn't really needed
I just ordered my first set of parts from SendCutSend. I'm building a go kart for my nine year old grandtwins and I needed tabs to mount the front and rear suspension, seat belts, visibility flag, and rack and pinion steering box. I could have cut these out myself on my CNC mill but I can have them here in one percent of the time it would take me. Thank you for the idea.
I feel the same way. I could totally make the parts myself, but I want to build a grinder, not play with my plasma table.
I enjoyed all 3 videos, I also enjoyed the 40 dollar burn on the switch, since that about covers my budget for making my entire 72" sanding belt rig. I picked up a free walking machine and have extracted the multi speed motor and accompanying hardware. I have also been accumulating metal and bars from weight benches to disassembling old free heavy metal snow blowers. My shop is crammed into all parts of my large 2 stall and deep and wider garage with the same tool acquisition style as the above parts. My 72" belts have been sitting for 2 years probably, I think they were not alibaba but that other one and cheap. I have lots of other various wood and metal projects going all the time so whenever it happens it will be a one heckuva hack job without cad or any precision tools other than a WW2 10" lathe. LOL
Great build. Really like the look of it with the black/red contrast.
I strongly feel that wagos are awesome!
Looks fabulous, I love it! Great job, thanks for sharing this build.
why this doesn't come with a power switch: we don't usually use a VFD as is - its going in a much larger cabinet with bypass relays, timers, power filters, fault detection, lots of designated failure parts to protect the VFD (the most expensive component). The cabinet will have a big line power disconnect in the corner.
Also I wouldn't expect end users to go easy on a simple toggle switch, so we give them giant industrial buttons that can take physical abuse from a frustrated guy at the end of a 10 hour shift.
Wago 221 are perfect for that application, miles better than block connectors , use them all the time
Clough42 belt grinder in Agent 47 colors.... i like it!
You could install a remote start/stop (or Emergency Stop) switch, or a foot pedal of your own at a remote location. It should wire in to terminals on the drive.
THAT is a really nice belt grinder. Kudos dude!
Another great project complete. Thanks James.
This is a high end piece of machine
The ting whit grinders is that you get dust in the air. It hangs there for a long time. Fortunately, your body is a dust collector.
But the rest of the dust ends up on your machines, and the rest of your inventory.
Once you get there, you really get value for money.
It machines anything that moves, without you having to do anything.
Conveyors that are centrally controlled and they don't want power switches on them. I like KB controls, I'd get a tach and adjust the min and max so the range is just where you want it.
If the US is anything like the EU, then the reason for not including a powerswitch, is simply that it's very rarely needed when VFD's are used in industrial applications.
We have to remember that a VFD's is a piece of kit that hobbists have adopted for their usefullness. They are not originally intended as a consumer/enduser product.
In the intended industry setting, VFD's are usually used in large numbers and/or installed in closed electrical cabinets.
Imagine an industrial setting where you have to run around open all the electrical cabinets switching each inverter off before servicing an application, or even worse, finding each VFD hidden somewhere on a huge machine.
Power to VFD's are normally routed to the inverters via a main cutoff switch, and this is used if you need to power off the application.
Therefore a power switch directly mounted on the inverter is typically omitted.
It's a matter of not being a usefull feature, and ofc also a cost saving measure to maximize profits.
Congrats and good work. That satisfaction you describe totally makes sense... well earned!
Great build,seen a lot of videos on 2x72s got to be top 3! Turned out great! Thanks!
Hah, I've been researching this as well, and know you're referring to Schmidt's and Vandelay's channels. Both are excellent designs as well and I plan to borrow features from all of them :)
@@kurtbilinski1723 I think @housemade kits are the best bang for the buck.
James, we use those types of VFDs in my plant to control conveyor belts and they were all turned on and off via a plc CONTROL UNIT with emergency stops along the way.
beautiful work BTW!
Great unit, I would however have some dust extraction duct below the sparks to take away the dust and keep the surrounding area clean.
I absolutely love wago connectors.
The only thing I use wirenuts for anymore are applications requiring higher amperage because I've done testing with both and while this may be anecdotal I've noticed my joins run a few (maybe 5-9c) degrees cooler with wirenuts, but it absolutely doesn't matter until you're above about 25amp.
25amp and lower I have seen almost no difference using a thermocouple to measure.
I'd take some thin sheet and make a spark funnel, point it into a bucket of water, it'll keep the contamination down considerably.
Very nice design. I'm impressed. Thanks for doing this.
@@SHRIKEPRECISION Is your name James?
That's really nice.
Great finish, now to clean the dust out of the tool box.
My opinion about wago connectors is that it would be nice if they sold them in local hardware stores. Home Depot and Lowes only seem to have the similar looking push-in connectors that don't work with stranded wire.
The wobble could be the stitch on the belt.
Nice job great tool. 👍
The tracking issue is because those Blaze belts have a stiff backing and they dont follow the crown of the pulleys unless you have a butt load of tension on them .
Yes, this has been my experience as well
you should drill 4 holes in the work plate so you can build wedge adaptors that fit on the work plate and and adjust the grind angle reliably.
Very nice James.😊😊😊 runs great.
Great job James! Looks awesome. Ciao, Marco.
I agree a stronger tensioner should be used. Might be better if there was an adjustable tensioner that could be used. Different belts may require different pressures. The wobble might be the belt. Maybe warped. Ah I see it was the belt. I watched the video to the end.
Not being a machinist but I would put a tray under the grinder to catch all those sparks, your drawer handles will gradually accumulate piles of grit :)
Beautiful machine.
You probably already have plans for it, but i have to mention an arc/dust collector is needed.
Very impressive.
@26:15 "I can't really communicate what it feels like ..." If it were me I'd be showing one of those sheep(*) eating grins we hear about 😁 p.s. love the project !
When will you be adding accessories , like a dust collector, different wheel sizes etc.
When I need them for a project.
Since you seem to be in the market for a good controlled cycle crimper for insulated terminals, may I suggest a Sargent 4240-4140CT crimper. I think it would suit you. Those things you’re using now are….
Love wago connectors!
Belt wobble comes from the part where belt is connected/glued together. It's almost always at an angle to make connection stronger, but that makes belt circumcise change gradually and then it just flops back. It depends how well its put together. I have always wondered if you would put the adhesion part under hydraulic press and press it flatter..would it help :P. Same problem occurs with bandsaw blades. Some of them are really poorly welded together and on every pass it makes a dramatic wobble.
Uggh no washers under your fasteners.
I would have thought you would want lock washers under the motor mount bolts. No enough vibration to warrant them? Maybe Lock-tight then?
Actually, the powder coat locks them in. I needed to take a couple out, and it was a struggle. We'll see long term. I'll use that locker if needed.
@@Clough42 i commented only part way through the video.
Some smoothing running drive wheel!
Thumbs up on that action alone.
German Guy here - WAGO are awesome, what else would anybody use?
Hello James just awesome as usual. Can you let me know what they charge for all the cuts they made for this grinder?
Load the belt at least with 5 N/mm belt width. I am working with 8 N/mm for a couple of years now and it works fine for all cloth backing types
Great new piece of equipment James! Fantastic build!
Nice
Is is posible there is a link for Send-Cut-Send to order your parts?
You're making quite the mess there! Did you ever consider some kind of dust collection for this bad boy?
Wagos rock.
Original Wagos are pretty reliable, but most of them in my country are fakes. They can give you a lots of pain-in-the-ass if you buy ones made out of chinesium.
I wonder if the belt crowns have a mismatch and that causes belt movement.
Comparing the crown on the tracking wheel to the grinder in our shop, James' seems to be a bit more aggressive. Also, the spring on the tensioner is closer to 45lbs when halfway compressed. Sure would be nice to have that much travel though.
Having one wheel that is adjustable for tracking, and then a second one that has a crown in a fixed place, they would seem to be misaligned by definition, at least to an extent.
My opinion on WAGO 221s is WHY THE HELL is Menards the only hardware store to sell them in store?!?
$40!!! That's got to be 100% markup.
Try Red Label Abrasive. By far the best belts around and made in America 🇺🇸 🤦♂️next time I'll watch the whole video before commenting 😄
The wobble is just a cheap belt.
Try a 3M Cubitron and everything is fine...🙂👍
Why the VFD what do you need slow down the belt speed down for ? Have no seen one on a belt grinder ! Looks great and nice videos
Probably needs it because the motor is three-phase.
Using BHCS in a "structural" application is problematic IMHO. For example mounting the motor. (They have comparatively low torque capacity, if they get stressed or hung up, the heads tend to strip out.) .02
1:17 maybe I am an idiot, but why don't they just overlap their tool path 0.125" to remove the burr?
Maybe the expensive belt is stiffer and needs breaking in 🤷♂️
Can't your hurt a vfd by cycling the power on and off too frequently? That's probably why.
Im looking for the comment regarding the lack of power switch (-;
Total Cost?
Around $2000
That's not belt wobble. That's an "oscillating belt grinder." Great work.
VFD without crazy programming interface with a ton of parameters, nice.
More error possibilities due to corrosion of jumpers especially the internal potentiometers but is ok, is sealed.
James, you did an absolute stellar job with your design and execution, Bravo!
I was killed once by a Wago connector.
.
I got better though.
The first belt has the optional oscillating belt sander feature so of course it costs more.
At 1:20; for the issue with the motor fit due to the extra material left by the laser start/finish process; if you can specify where the cut should start and stop could you design in a small notch or female "bump" in the circular hole, such that the extra material would be in that notch and then wouldn't foul the motor?
From my experience installing a vfd for a cnc mill it's common for vfd not to have a power switch. Setup for my cnc is a Siemens fused 30A 240VAC, 250VDC safety switch or disconnect and a Mitsubishi vfd that are hardwired to 230V single phase AC. Vfd is turned on and off by the Siemens disconnect so having a switch on the vfd would be redundant.
the 1750 rpm motor is a better choice, you can use the 2x to get higher speed the 1750 rpm has better low speed torque fyi
Nice design and well executed. Certainly a good example of how to leverage modern services that can laser cut, bend, and powder coat low volume parts. Really enables home gamers to do a lot without needing exotic equipment.
When I add a VFD and spindle to my CNC machine I will run it through a switch with separate Start and resettable Stop switch, like I have on some of my other machines. I the event of a power failure, when power is restored, the VFD will remain unpowered.
I have VERY strong opinions about Wago connectors!
(I love Wago connectors)
ALL electronics are filled with smoke. You never want to let it out.
Wago are perfect, thats it just like a knipex plier. Many live in my house walls
I have opinions concerning wago connectors. They are fantastic. 🤗
Join me in the Wago appreciation society! The only thing I would maybe do is wrap a bit of electrical tape around the flaps of the Wago so they don't vibrate loose (even though there's quite a bit of spring tension in there).
Surely if the laser cut is started towards the centre of the waste stock and spiralled out to the edge of the cut you wouldn't have to contend with the extra material.
Also, nothing quite like spending up to get a quality belt, just to find it wobbles more than a cheaper belt.
I think they do, but there's still an imperfection.
I wonder if putting an emergency stop foot switch would be a good idea for this.
Wago connectors?! How could you?!
Really, though - The manufacturer says they're vibration-proof, so I reckon they're less prone to work loose than a wire nut. I've never used one like that, but it's getting filed away in the memory bank for possible future use.
6:50 "Ratcheting Wrenches" are soooo much better to use when you have the clearance...the're kind of pricey, but worth it IMHO.
James… as always the design, build, videography, and narration were stellar! Hoping the parts you’re waiting on for the Avid CNC come in soon because I would really like to see how that is going 😊.
regarding wago connectors: i have many years experience with them, one of my early experiences was with locomotive traction engines. the systems we worked on were on the prime mover or train engine if you prefer. we tried or at least examined every other method for making electrical connections available. wago connectors were the only ones we found that didnt loosen over time and didnt cut into the conductors of stranded wire. i have used many different types of wago connectors and i am very partial to their din rail mount products. I have used wago in trians, cars, buildings, power plants, bridges and industrial facilities, they just work. I have spoken to wago engineers directly more than once and dealt with the factory directly. the company i worked for even went so far as to become a dealer for some products (mostly to cut costs) and i have never had a negative experience. even the chinese copies are not too bad.
Wagos seem to beat wire nuts on everything but cost, demonstrated repeatedly on many channels, yet you will find old people talk about how superior wire nuts are in comments sections. Weirdest thing to watch.
@@JeronimoStilton14 wagos are best on stranded wire, no question. wire nuts are superior to most other things on solid core wire but they are easier to get wrong. things have a purpose.
@@nilzlima3027 What have you seen showing that wire nuts are better for solid core? Pull strength, and cycle tests showed wago as a winner for both types from what I recall with the only real thing a wire nut ever wins on being cost. All things created equal bootlace is what’s commonly used in the controls industry. I’m genuinely curious because wire nuts usually only get a ton of anecdotal “well they’ve been used for hundreds of years” and while that may be true wagos are an advancement on a concept so it’s not necessarily going to have the time under fire but it doesn’t need to. I would agree they’re easy to mess up, frankly it’s why when building my first controls project it was with wagos, I just wanted it to work and not have to deal with fiddley nuts
@@JeronimoStilton14 i spent years building controls and stranded wire is so much preferred. where wire nuts shine is on solid core wire. they will provide greater conductivity and mechanical strength. i have never seen a spring tension terminal of any type that has superior retention to a wire nut on stranded wire. some of them a bit of pull and twist the wire comes right out. as i have stated wire nuts are the easiest to get wrong, proper twist is required. i have had seasoned professionals tell me i "over tighten" nuts. they may have a point, i have had many failures where the spring expands and cracks. those are cheap shitty nuts tho. you get what you pay for. 3m makes the best wire nuts, they also make the worst.
Love the overall design and aesthetic, cool build for sure!
Do i spot a NSK Evo there in the background?
Thanks! Yes, that's an Evo. Best deburring tool ever.
@@Clough42 Love mine too! :D
I love those connectors. I just had to rewire the motor in a leblond for low voltage last Friday, i used those connectors, worked great, easy, no twisting required. SIDE NOTE: I’ve never seen a power switch on a VFD. Normally they are connected to some kind of disconnect so a power switch would be redundant i guess? Never really thought about.