Wow I just did that to my VFD today, but I drilled more holes all over the original enclosure and mounted that inside the ammo can. Came in the house and brought up House Made on the TV and watched this video. Could not believe you were doing the same thing I did, although you posted this two weeks ago I had not seen it yet. I got the idea from someone on RUclips. I too was worried about dust killing the VFD. Great video, love to watch your channel.
If I were you I'd probably ground the box to the unit as well. That way if anything does come loose, it will trip the breaker and you'll know something ain't right. I finished my 2x72 housemade grinder build a few months ago, and so far it's absolutely kick ass! So thank for your plans man, they worked out excellent! 🤘🏼
Hey thanks for this video, i built the 2x72 from plans I purchased from you, i hooked up a treadmill motor because I couldn’t afford the more expensive set up, being a disabled vet and work is slow you know money is tite, this vfd is reasonable and sounds like it’s working great for you, and i have a shit load of ammo cans!!
Hey Brian another good project would be a disk grinder, I am collecting pieces do make one myself. A house made kit would be a great addition to the cause.
I know this is old, but I’m just getting into the diy tool scene after a big milling machine purchase (for me). Now, I’d like to make several of the other tools I wanted to save some cash. It’s really cool to see Brian supporting another machinist/maker in the community. That’s badass.
This is genius, I had bought one of these VFD’s a couple years ago and didn’t think about the grinding dust getting inside the unit and sent it back, now that I see this, I will definitely use this idea now. Definitely more affordable than KBAC when making a home built grinder. Thanks man!!!!!!
I have this vfd powering my 1-1/2hp baldor pedestal grinder so far its been great i dont have it enclosed which has been bothering me so this video was awesome. Thinking about springing for the kbec for the revolution tho, just to see the difference between the 2, and bc i like quality stuff even tho i cant always afford it, but we'll see. This was a great idea to whoever came up with it. And thank you for making a video to show us!!
You are the man. I was putting mine in a 12x12 nema 3 j box with cooling fan and filters. Time to nix that and do this. I have two grinders up and running now that I worked out the bugs it is time to build one for me.
This is great! Super timely as I am thinking about how to enclose my VFD when I get to that step in the build, this is great idea. Canadians can pick up ammo cans at Princess Auto for ~$25 CAD.
I use orange ip65 enclosures for all my electrical housing requirements. They come in different sizes to choose from and because they are industrial in nature, you can add good filtered ventilation systems to them.
Great idea. I bet this works great. What about adding thermal paste on the bottom of the heat sink? Replacing the bottom of the ammo can with an Al plate? Rick on and thank you for the inspiration.
So, this works great for the most part- ive had mine over heat and decide to stop functioning until it cools down again when it hits 90+ inside/outside.
I may be just out of the loop but I'm impressed by the battery powered hot glue gun lol. Nice build! I'm working on my Revolution now and this is a great tip!
There are lots of heat dissipation calculators, you can input your heat output vs the external dimensions and determine based on your room temp if it is sufficient. Either way for the price of the VFD, the reduction in life span due to heat will probably out weigh the cost of adding a proper cooling solution.
The metal ammo box is a great enclosure. The metal conducts heat and reduces internal temperatures. I suggest not to use plastic cases as the internal temperatures will be higher. Ok in winter but risk overheating in hotter weather. The ring wire thermals in Australia is mandatory for the earthing conductors, to prevent detachment,. Also the metal case needs to be earthed by connecting the incoming supply earth wire to the metal case. Strip the metal bare where the earth connection is made to ensure a good earth or you risk electrocution if a power cable detaches internally. I also prefer to mount the board on the lid with sufficient cable inside so when servicing or adjusting, the board is fully accessible on the removed lid. Also mount the unit so the board heat sink fins are vertical to aid convection cooling. Plus the heat glue is not suitable as the cooling fins may get hot enough to melt the heat glue. Use two strips of aluminum angle mounted to the lid, spaced so the they run along and are a snug fit to the external side fins of the board. Screw or pop rivet the fins to the up stand legs of the angles. This improves convection and conduction cooling. Cheers.
This is a great idea. I am going to steal it. Heay being a VFD killer can you put filters on the back and or sides? Also would puting aluminum on the sides help or would i need to cut and install. I know this is way over thinking but I like all the options being cost versus practical.
Ammo can is a nice touch, if you do end up with cooling issues simply mount that heat sink on the outside of the can and use thermal paste on both sides of the steel
Thats kind of crazy, and not the good crazy. At that point you are using the can as the heat sink, and it is probably getting at least some air flow over it. More than likely its working better than the original heatsink inside the can. If I end up getting on of these, I'd attach it to one of the walls of the can, cut a square hole enough for the heatsink to protrude through and get the benefit of some air flow across it. Or, its possible there is just enough thermal conductivity and mass of these ammo boxes to allow the VFD to not fry. Not seeing why you would stick that on top of the table since its just taking up valuable space.
With the massive heat sink and the fan, we all assume these VFDs generate a significant amount of heat. I suppose that under certain use cases, they might. But I seldom using my Evolution for more than a few minutes at a time. I have a feeling I'll be touching the Ammo box occasionally to verify. Also, Harbor Freight sells a steel ammo box. I don't know if it's big enough.
This is a good idea, but I used a similar vfd from automation direct. I built a compartment into my grinding bench so the vfd, a contactor, the screen/control panel, and a fan are all inside. It pick up air from under the table, through a horizontal channel, flows around the vfd and is blown out through the side with a dryer type down vent that I cnc plasma cut. Dust has to make it's way in under or through the bottom of the vent, defying gravity. The grinding dust pretty much stays within the back and side walls of the table (30" tall). The screen is mounted behind acrylic and I have switches and a potentiometer knob mounted through my own sheet metal control panel, which is vertical and acts as the cover for the vfd enclosure. It is easy to control while wearing gloves and the controls are cheap if they do happen to get damaged. The screen is protected and reads out the surface feet per minute of the belt. Automation direct had a 400+ page manual on the vfd and it was priced not too much higher than amazon. I expect the quality to be more consistent than amazon products. The Iron Horse 3hp 3ph motor worked great with a 7 inch wheel and at 4500 rpm it will do 8,000 surface feet per minute. The motor is good to 5500 rpm but this seems fast enough so far. The speed from 6,000 to 7,000 sfpm makes grinding quite a bit faster so I'm glad I chose to built it with more HP and speed than average. It runs very well at 1,000 sfpm as well for fine work.
Great idea, but could be dangerous. I'm not an electrician, but spent my early years working on mid to large computer systems. I have two concerns with your design, which may easily be rectified. 1) by simply hot gluing the vfd into a metal case, you might possibly create a situation where if the unit breaks loose of the glue, or a 220v lead comes loose and touches the ungrounded case, you could "energize" the case with 220 volts, and potentially electrocute the user. I believe you should run a ground lead to the case, so that if a hot lead touches the case it would trip the breaker. 2) by removing the vfd "guts" from its case, you most likely invalidated any UL or other certifications. In case of a fire, your insurance company may decline coverage. Probably best to leave the VFD in its original unmodified case. This may increase the likelihood of a heat issue, but hopefully there's some over-temp circuitry in the device. Depending on your country, laws will differ, so best to check with a licensed electrician. As I said I'm not an electrician or and electrical engineer but have some experience working with high voltage and high amperage devices. When it comes to high voltage/amperage it's better to err on the side of caution.
I agree with tying the metal ammo box to earth ground. I was thinking by leaving the VFD in the case, you keep the cooling fan that actively moves air across the heat sink. That is probably better, and it solves the UL certification issue you raise, though I do not see any UL certification on the VFD and I have it in my hand. That said, being inside an ammo can is probably the most fire safe place it could be.
@@bobdeitrick7738 Drill a small hole through the ammo can, scrape a little paint off around the hole. Install a machine screw through the hole from the outside. On the inside wrap a wire around the screw (or add a ring terminal to the wire, and put the ring terminal over the screw. Add a washer and nut, tighten. Run the wire to the ground connection on the vfd (this is where the ground wire from your mains connects). you can google "how do I add a ground to a metal box", and you'll find lots of help.
@@Batti2323 lol I agree inside the ammo can is the safest place for the vfd. I turned mine on for the fist time with a welding glove. Works fine so far.
Plastic box not good , need heat sink, you can get these boxes used on eBay for cheap. The internal electronics for these are all the same, it’s the big button features and boxing that makes them expensive. You can wire into this VFD better buttons and knobs also not hard. For a little effort this is as good or better than the $400 VFD if you can make and use Brian’s monster machine 2x72 this is a breeze and cheap. I spent $100 for VFD and box , 3 months ago. I would buy Brian’s kit , simple and easy.
Question for the peanut gallery, can I put a receiving (female) plug on the output side of the VFD and a male plug on input side? I'm going to be using it for my 2x72, but I also want to use it for my hydraulic press which is what its connected to now. (same HP, both 3 phase 220)
kinda late reply but.. you even can wire both motors to vfd using on-off-on switch, which has 3 sets of contacts. this will allow you to easily switch between motors. just remember - never switch motors if currently connected one is spinning. you have to stop motor, switch it, then start again.
I really enjoy your videos thanks. I bought a $95.00 VFD and I either did nor receive or lost the 6' cable for the controller. Any idea how I can get one?
Another great video! ; ). I'm in Phoenix with temps up to 118° Fahrenheit, and consistently over 110° in the summer. We will see how the fully enclosed VFD works in high heat. I may put some vent holes with a filter on mine to allow more air circulation. With the cheap VFDs, I'm not sure if there's going to be much overheating protection and I'm unsure what will happen if it overheats. Anyone else have a fully enclosed box without vents in temperatures above 100°?
Hey, do you have instructions on programming peremitor? I bought that vfd and it says that it needs to be programmed for USA power and everything. I can’t find any clear answers online and the instructions don’t have any. I want this vfd and motor to last so any help is appreciated.
The reason why you want to keep heat as low as feasible is not just the obvious of preventing an overheat, it’s because the higher you make the “ambient” temperature that the VFD will inhabit the faster the electrolyte in those LARGE ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS will evaporate shortening their lifespan. This is especially true for lower temp 85°C capacitors. As a super overly generalized rule you should expect that for every +10°C increase a component operates at, its lifespan is halved. Quality caps rated for 105°C should have about 4x the life expectancy (at the very least 2x). So encapsulating the VFD won’t immediately kill it or even cause it to go into overheat protection in most normal use cases. I have no way of knowing what temp the VFD or its individual components may reach. However I would almost certainly bet it will operate at 10-15°C hotter than open vented (based on what i’ve seen from electric motors in TEFC vs Open Vented temperature differences. What it ultimately boils down to: Is the protection gain from being in a dust free sealed environment worth the lifespan reduction from increased temperature while operating in said sealed environment? While the general rule would suggest 50-67.5% reduction, [speculating based on my own personal experience] I would expect a 20-25% reduction, no more than 1/3. But these numbers aren’t super helpful w/o the knowledge of the average lifetime of the units under controlled condition… even so it will probably fit a classic bell curve with extremes of 24months. So if you happened to have had a unit that would have lasted 12months longer than the average, the impact of reduced operation from the heat might simply drop its lifespan to within a negligible time of an average unit leading someone to think the increased heat from being sealed had no impact. I think the best thing to do would be to compromise and find a way so that the aluminum heat sink could be placed so as to create a seal around the fins leaving them outside the container. Judging from the shape and design, this should be 100% feasible w/o getting overly intricate. My 2 cents for what it’s worth to anyone willing to read this far
This VFD is still in good service today. Still works great. I have 5 other ones with daily use, setup just like this without any issues. So we are good to go. 👍🏻
@@HouseMadeUSGreat to hear, If you have a temp probe that you could place inside the container to monitor what temp it gets to I would love to know as would the general community. Along with that I would even more like to hear back (even years later) when they finally give up the ghost. If it makes it 5-7+ years then that will speak volumes for going that sealed route: simply the protection gained far exceeds the risk of premature failure from shorted electronics due to metal/dust.
I would like to see you program that VFD I’m struggling with that part. I’m a builder not a program guy, almost 70 and just don’t find it interesting but I got no kids around to diddle that gizmo for me.
I found out that I had my wires crossed literally, I was feeding 110vac to the dang box from the git go, my bad there. And as far as the enclosure, it’s just a nema enclosure component. I liked your ammo box approach much better. Keep on choochin out of your own head like you’ve been doing, I’m impressed ,and that ain’t faint praise my friend.
Are you guys allowed to do your own electrical work in the States ? In Australia, only licensed Electricians can wire up or rewire any kind of electrical appliances. 👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺
While this is a great way of sealing the VFD, there is one really big issue long term... ventilation. There is a reason that the VFD has a heat sink and a fan mounted to the rear of it, which is to allow the semiconductors in the unit to remain cool and not burn out, the fan is required to move fresh cool air constantly across the heat sink so that it will cool. Because you have enclosed it, your heat sink will not operate and it will just act like a heater in the box, eventually killing your VFD. You need to somehow externalize the heat sink and fan to the box so that the electronics are sealed but the heat can escape.
I was like hmmm what's with the 2x4??? It took me a bit than I realized it was to protect the work bench top. Then for a tiny moment I felt sad that I've never had a work bench top worth protecting. #newlifegoals hahaha
Have you find a similar overseas VFD for those of us that don’t have 220v in our shops? I’ve had that KBAC on my Amazon wishlist for awhile, it’s just so damn expensive!
@@HouseMadeUS I thought I came across one on Amazon as I was going through all the VFDs, pretty sure I saw one. Problem is it was around the $280 mark about the same as the expensive one you recommended, but was a 3hp version can’t remember the name🤔
check the filtering system on my channel,,, i found a treadmill motor with a 2 in. wide flywheel... but the trouble was the steel dust,, well i just reversed the fan a installed a car air intake filter,,,, check it out.. its in Spanish,,, but you get the idea
I personally noticed, and sincerely thank you, for saying "OVERSEAS" VFD's in your latest video instead of the alternative labeling of one country. It seems small, but is a big step in changing the language this community uses and eliminating some of the systemic xenophobia. I see you, I thank you, Brian.
Alternative labeling is BS. China is the name of a country. That would be like calling the USA the "West" or North America. China is a communist country that makes a lot of junk. They also make some good products. You must be one of those woke people who doesn't want to call a spade a spade. My Revolution build uses an Iron Horse 3hp 3ph motor built in China. My bandsaw was made in Italy, other tools are from various other countries including the US. Overseas is a broad, useless term since most countries are "overseas" from here.
Why do you call them glands, they are cord connectors. A standard hole saw will cut those 7/8” holes all day long. I know this because I’ve drilled 100’s if not 1,000’s of holes as a electrician/electrical contractor.
@@HouseMadeUS The plastic ammo cans will warp if they get hot, so keep that in mind. My shop gets over 100 deg in the summer when I’m not out there so I went with metal.
Wow I just did that to my VFD today, but I drilled more holes all over the original enclosure and mounted that inside the ammo can. Came in the house and brought up House Made on the TV and watched this video. Could not believe you were doing the same thing I did, although you posted this two weeks ago I had not seen it yet. I got the idea from someone on RUclips. I too was worried about dust killing the VFD. Great video, love to watch your channel.
Seeing what poor care you take over the handling of the VFD, it is amazing how resilient it is.
Still going strong all these years later. 😁👍🏻
If I were you I'd probably ground the box to the unit as well. That way if anything does come loose, it will trip the breaker and you'll know something ain't right. I finished my 2x72 housemade grinder build a few months ago, and so far it's absolutely kick ass! So thank for your plans man, they worked out excellent! 🤘🏼
Glad you like the plans, thank you for supporting my work. You're right about the grounding. I will make that happen.
Hey thanks for this video, i built the 2x72 from plans I purchased from you, i hooked up a treadmill motor because I couldn’t afford the more expensive set up, being a disabled vet and work is slow you know money is tite, this vfd is reasonable and sounds like it’s working great for you, and i have a shit load of ammo cans!!
Hey Brian another good project would be a disk grinder, I am collecting pieces do make one myself. A house made kit would be a great addition to the cause.
If I had the time I would take it on. Definitely a good idea. Richard Beck makes a good disc grinder.
I know this is old, but I’m just getting into the diy tool scene after a big milling machine purchase (for me). Now, I’d like to make several of the other tools I wanted to save some cash. It’s really cool to see Brian supporting another machinist/maker in the community. That’s badass.
This is genius, I had bought one of these VFD’s a couple years ago and didn’t think about the grinding dust getting inside the unit and sent it back, now that I see this, I will definitely use this idea now. Definitely more affordable than KBAC when making a home built grinder.
Thanks man!!!!!!
Thank you brother! I appreciate the feedback. I think this is a good alternative if you have 220. Do it up!!
I have this vfd powering my 1-1/2hp baldor pedestal grinder so far its been great i dont have it enclosed which has been bothering me so this video was awesome. Thinking about springing for the kbec for the revolution tho, just to see the difference between the 2, and bc i like quality stuff even tho i cant always afford it, but we'll see. This was a great idea to whoever came up with it. And thank you for making a video to show us!!
This is a great idea! I bought this vfd, haven't gotten everything built yet, but I was trying to figure out how I was going to go about this.
Glad it can help Brandon! ⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
You are the man. I was putting mine in a 12x12 nema 3 j box with cooling fan and filters. Time to nix that and do this. I have two grinders up and running now that I worked out the bugs it is time to build one for me.
Sounds good Alan! Thank you.
Nice! I'm upgrading my homemade KMG with this drive and a 2hp 3ph motor. I do plan on adding ventilation though.
This is great! Super timely as I am thinking about how to enclose my VFD when I get to that step in the build, this is great idea. Canadians can pick up ammo cans at Princess Auto for ~$25 CAD.
Awesome. They can be bought cheap here too at Harbor Freight I think!
I use orange ip65 enclosures for all my electrical housing requirements. They come in different sizes to choose from and because they are industrial in nature, you can add good filtered ventilation systems to them.
Great idea. I bet this works great. What about adding thermal paste on the bottom of the heat sink? Replacing the bottom of the ammo can with an Al plate? Rick on and thank you for the inspiration.
All good suggestions. I think there is a few ways to do this, fun to try them all out!
So, this works great for the most part- ive had mine over heat and decide to stop functioning until it cools down again when it hits 90+ inside/outside.
I may be just out of the loop but I'm impressed by the battery powered hot glue gun lol. Nice build! I'm working on my Revolution now and this is a great tip!
Dude this thing was on clearance at Home Depot and I grabbed it for $24. Great purchase
Cut slots for the heat sink fins to stick out? Put an external fan on those fins maybe?
Maybe. I am running it this way for a while to see if it pops. Seems to run great. I ran it hard yesterday making SanMai and it never overheated.
There are lots of heat dissipation calculators, you can input your heat output vs the external dimensions and determine based on your room temp if it is sufficient. Either way for the price of the VFD, the reduction in life span due to heat will probably out weigh the cost of adding a proper cooling solution.
Good to know. Building my Rev grinder now.
Yet one more great use for ammo cans
The metal ammo box is a great enclosure.
The metal conducts heat and reduces internal temperatures. I suggest not to use plastic cases as the internal temperatures will be higher. Ok in winter but risk overheating in hotter weather.
The ring wire thermals in Australia is mandatory for the earthing conductors, to prevent detachment,.
Also the metal case needs to be earthed by connecting the incoming supply earth wire to the metal case.
Strip the metal bare where the earth connection is made to ensure a good earth or you risk electrocution if a power cable detaches internally.
I also prefer to mount the board on the lid with sufficient cable inside so when servicing or adjusting, the board is fully accessible on the removed lid.
Also mount the unit so the board heat sink fins are vertical to aid convection cooling.
Plus the heat glue is not suitable as the cooling fins may get hot enough to melt the heat glue.
Use two strips of aluminum angle mounted to the lid, spaced so the they run along and are a snug fit to the external side fins of the board. Screw or pop rivet the fins to the up stand legs of the angles. This improves convection and conduction cooling.
Cheers.
- Thank you! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
This is a great idea. I am going to steal it. Heay being a VFD killer can you put filters on the back and or sides? Also would puting aluminum on the sides help or would i need to cut and install. I know this is way over thinking but I like all the options being cost versus practical.
Ammo can is a nice touch, if you do end up with cooling issues simply mount that heat sink on the outside of the can and use thermal paste on both sides of the steel
That's a good idea. Thank you. 🙏🏼
Thats kind of crazy, and not the good crazy. At that point you are using the can as the heat sink, and it is probably getting at least some air flow over it. More than likely its working better than the original heatsink inside the can.
If I end up getting on of these, I'd attach it to one of the walls of the can, cut a square hole enough for the heatsink to protrude through and get the benefit of some air flow across it. Or, its possible there is just enough thermal conductivity and mass of these ammo boxes to allow the VFD to not fry. Not seeing why you would stick that on top of the table since its just taking up valuable space.
With the massive heat sink and the fan, we all assume these VFDs generate a significant amount of heat. I suppose that under certain use cases, they might. But I seldom using my Evolution for more than a few minutes at a time. I have a feeling I'll be touching the Ammo box occasionally to verify. Also, Harbor Freight sells a steel ammo box. I don't know if it's big enough.
I am with you. Mine never get that warm. I'll keep an eye on the temps.
I sent you pictures of my idea on how I setup my VFD again. It stays clean and cool.
Got them Wayne. I sent ya a responses cheers bud!!
Fabulous!! I think this is my new plan!
Nice!!
This is a good idea, but I used a similar vfd from automation direct. I built a compartment into my grinding bench so the vfd, a contactor, the screen/control panel, and a fan are all inside. It pick up air from under the table, through a horizontal channel, flows around the vfd and is blown out through the side with a dryer type down vent that I cnc plasma cut. Dust has to make it's way in under or through the bottom of the vent, defying gravity. The grinding dust pretty much stays within the back and side walls of the table (30" tall). The screen is mounted behind acrylic and I have switches and a potentiometer knob mounted through my own sheet metal control panel, which is vertical and acts as the cover for the vfd enclosure. It is easy to control while wearing gloves and the controls are cheap if they do happen to get damaged. The screen is protected and reads out the surface feet per minute of the belt. Automation direct had a 400+ page manual on the vfd and it was priced not too much higher than amazon. I expect the quality to be more consistent than amazon products. The Iron Horse 3hp 3ph motor worked great with a 7 inch wheel and at 4500 rpm it will do 8,000 surface feet per minute. The motor is good to 5500 rpm but this seems fast enough so far. The speed from 6,000 to 7,000 sfpm makes grinding quite a bit faster so I'm glad I chose to built it with more HP and speed than average. It runs very well at 1,000 sfpm as well for fine work.
Thanks Brian. Just ordered my kit from you. The us made vfd in not available anywhere that i can find at this time. My have to buy this one.
⚡️⚡️⚡️Thank you!! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Great idea, but could be dangerous. I'm not an electrician, but spent my early years working on mid to large computer systems. I have two concerns with your design, which may easily be rectified. 1) by simply hot gluing the vfd into a metal case, you might possibly create a situation where if the unit breaks loose of the glue, or a 220v lead comes loose and touches the ungrounded case, you could "energize" the case with 220 volts, and potentially electrocute the user. I believe you should run a ground lead to the case, so that if a hot lead touches the case it would trip the breaker. 2) by removing the vfd "guts" from its case, you most likely invalidated any UL or other certifications. In case of a fire, your insurance company may decline coverage. Probably best to leave the VFD in its original unmodified case. This may increase the likelihood of a heat issue, but hopefully there's some over-temp circuitry in the device. Depending on your country, laws will differ, so best to check with a licensed electrician.
As I said I'm not an electrician or and electrical engineer but have some experience working with high voltage and high amperage devices. When it comes to high voltage/amperage it's better to err on the side of caution.
I agree with tying the metal ammo box to earth ground. I was thinking by leaving the VFD in the case, you keep the cooling fan that actively moves air across the heat sink. That is probably better, and it solves the UL certification issue you raise, though I do not see any UL certification on the VFD and I have it in my hand. That said, being inside an ammo can is probably the most fire safe place it could be.
Pardon my ignorance but any tips on how to add a ground wire?
@@bobdeitrick7738 Drill a small hole through the ammo can, scrape a little paint off around the hole. Install a machine screw through the hole from the outside. On the inside wrap a wire around the screw (or add a ring terminal to the wire, and put the ring terminal over the screw. Add a washer and nut, tighten. Run the wire to the ground connection on the vfd (this is where the ground wire from your mains connects). you can google "how do I add a ground to a metal box", and you'll find lots of help.
@@Batti2323 lol I agree inside the ammo can is the safest place for the vfd. I turned mine on for the fist time with a welding glove. Works fine so far.
You're right, but all you have to do is tap a hole for a 12 gauge grounding (green) pigtail and parallel it with the incoming grounding conductor.
A bit off topic but that sliding guide you had right at the start....do you have a video link to it?
Great Idea! Thank you for sharing! 👍
Thank you Brett!
Normally I see vfd's with a horsepower rating. I don't see it on these.....can they run a 3hp?
Yes, rated up to 3hp on this particular VFD.
Plastic box not good , need heat sink, you can get these boxes used on eBay for cheap. The internal electronics for these are all the same, it’s the big button features and boxing that makes them expensive. You can wire into this VFD better buttons and knobs also not hard. For a little effort this is as good or better than the $400 VFD if you can make and use Brian’s monster machine 2x72 this is a breeze and cheap. I spent $100 for VFD and box , 3 months ago. I would buy Brian’s kit , simple and easy.
Ha! I had the same idea but wasn't sure how to execute. Now I know.
Question for the peanut gallery, can I put a receiving (female) plug on the output side of the VFD and a male plug on input side? I'm going to be using it for my 2x72, but I also want to use it for my hydraulic press which is what its connected to now. (same HP, both 3 phase 220)
kinda late reply but.. you even can wire both motors to vfd using on-off-on switch, which has 3 sets of contacts. this will allow you to easily switch between motors. just remember - never switch motors if currently connected one is spinning. you have to stop motor, switch it, then start again.
Harbor Freight has plastic ammo boxes seems to be fairly sturdy under $20
I'll check them out. Thank you.
I really enjoy your videos thanks. I bought a $95.00 VFD and I either did nor receive or lost the 6' cable for the controller. Any idea how I can get one?
Contact the seller they have good customer support.
Another great video! ; ). I'm in Phoenix with temps up to 118° Fahrenheit, and consistently over 110° in the summer.
We will see how the fully enclosed VFD works in high heat.
I may put some vent holes with a filter on mine to allow more air circulation.
With the cheap VFDs, I'm not sure if there's going to be much overheating protection and I'm unsure what will happen if it overheats.
Anyone else have a fully enclosed box without vents in temperatures above 100°?
Hey, do you have instructions on programming peremitor? I bought that vfd and it says that it needs to be programmed for USA power and everything. I can’t find any clear answers online and the instructions don’t have any. I want this vfd and motor to last so any help is appreciated.
The VFD requires no programming for this application. Plug and play.
The reason why you want to keep heat as low as feasible is not just the obvious of preventing an overheat, it’s because the higher you make the “ambient” temperature that the VFD will inhabit the faster the electrolyte in those LARGE ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS will evaporate shortening their lifespan.
This is especially true for lower temp 85°C capacitors. As a super overly generalized rule you should expect that for every +10°C increase a component operates at, its lifespan is halved. Quality caps rated for 105°C should have about 4x the life expectancy (at the very least 2x).
So encapsulating the VFD won’t immediately kill it or even cause it to go into overheat protection in most normal use cases. I have no way of knowing what temp the VFD or its individual components may reach. However I would almost certainly bet it will operate at 10-15°C hotter than open vented (based on what i’ve seen from electric motors in TEFC vs Open Vented temperature differences.
What it ultimately boils down to:
Is the protection gain from being in a dust free sealed environment worth the lifespan reduction from increased temperature while operating in said sealed environment?
While the general rule would suggest 50-67.5% reduction, [speculating based on my own personal experience] I would expect a 20-25% reduction, no more than 1/3. But these numbers aren’t super helpful w/o the knowledge of the average lifetime of the units under controlled condition… even so it will probably fit a classic bell curve with extremes of 24months. So if you happened to have had a unit that would have lasted 12months longer than the average, the impact of reduced operation from the heat might simply drop its lifespan to within a negligible time of an average unit leading someone to think the increased heat from being sealed had no impact.
I think the best thing to do would be to compromise and find a way so that the aluminum heat sink could be placed so as to create a seal around the fins leaving them outside the container. Judging from the shape and design, this should be 100% feasible w/o getting overly intricate. My 2 cents for what it’s worth to anyone willing to read this far
This VFD is still in good service today. Still works great. I have 5 other ones with daily use, setup just like this without any issues. So we are good to go. 👍🏻
@@HouseMadeUSGreat to hear, If you have a temp probe that you could place inside the container to monitor what temp it gets to I would love to know as would the general community.
Along with that I would even more like to hear back (even years later) when they finally give up the ghost. If it makes it 5-7+ years then that will speak volumes for going that sealed route: simply the protection gained far exceeds the risk of premature failure from shorted electronics due to metal/dust.
Oh, and I like the ammo box idea, but I’d definitely use a plastic one by Plano, less than $20.
Brian, did you mean to link the hole saw?
Thanks Tom!! Updated the description- 7/8" Carbide Tipped Holesaw ► amzn.to/3JXLumH
I believe its called a ribbon cable. Correct me if I am wrong anyone. 3:36 in video for reference.
I would like to see you program that VFD I’m struggling with that part. I’m a builder not a program guy, almost 70 and just don’t find it interesting but I got no kids around to diddle that gizmo for me.
Hi Dan, I do not change any settings on these. Just use it right out of the box.
I found out that I had my wires crossed literally, I was feeding 110vac to the dang box from the git go, my bad there. And as far as the enclosure, it’s just a nema enclosure component. I liked your ammo box approach much better. Keep on choochin out of your own head like you’ve been doing, I’m impressed ,and that ain’t faint praise my friend.
Cool idea!
Thank you Danny!
So THIS VFD is only for 220?
That is correct.
@@HouseMadeUS thanks Brian...now to change me Amazon wish list.
Can I use a Vector VFD
As soon as I get my motor Ill let you know. I bought one and liked the options it has.
I need a cheap vfd for a 110v vevor 2hp 1phase belt grinder just starting out i dont have much money
Are you guys allowed to do your own electrical work in the States ? In Australia, only licensed Electricians can wire up or rewire any kind of electrical appliances. 👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺
Yes we can wire things up, pull permits etc. however we have to pass inspections. Part of the deal.
@@HouseMadeUS Awesome, that’s makes life a bit easier. 👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺
While this is a great way of sealing the VFD, there is one really big issue long term... ventilation. There is a reason that the VFD has a heat sink and a fan mounted to the rear of it, which is to allow the semiconductors in the unit to remain cool and not burn out, the fan is required to move fresh cool air constantly across the heat sink so that it will cool. Because you have enclosed it, your heat sink will not operate and it will just act like a heater in the box, eventually killing your VFD. You need to somehow externalize the heat sink and fan to the box so that the electronics are sealed but the heat can escape.
Works fine this way. I thought heat would be an issue too but it has yet to fail with heavy daily use.
I was like hmmm what's with the 2x4??? It took me a bit than I realized it was to protect the work bench top. Then for a tiny moment I felt sad that I've never had a work bench top worth protecting. #newlifegoals hahaha
I don't protect them much but I don't like holes drilled in them. I've given up on the idea that I should keep them nice. Lol. 😂
Awesome!
Thanks Sean!!!
Have you find a similar overseas VFD for those of us that don’t have 220v in our shops?
I’ve had that KBAC on my Amazon wishlist for awhile, it’s just so damn expensive!
Nothing yet. I have requests out to find something like that but I don't believe it exists.
@@HouseMadeUS I thought I came across one on Amazon as I was going through all the VFDs, pretty sure I saw one. Problem is it was around the $280 mark about the same as the expensive one you recommended, but was a 3hp version can’t remember the name🤔
check the filtering system on my channel,,, i found a treadmill motor with a 2 in. wide flywheel... but the trouble was the steel dust,, well i just reversed the fan a installed a car air intake filter,,,, check it out.. its in Spanish,,, but you get the idea
Maybe use a plastic ammo box
I personally noticed, and sincerely thank you, for saying "OVERSEAS" VFD's in your latest video instead of the alternative labeling of one country. It seems small, but is a big step in changing the language this community uses and eliminating some of the systemic xenophobia. I see you, I thank you, Brian.
Alternative labeling is BS. China is the name of a country. That would be like calling the USA the "West" or North America. China is a communist country that makes a lot of junk. They also make some good products. You must be one of those woke people who doesn't want to call a spade a spade. My Revolution build uses an Iron Horse 3hp 3ph motor built in China. My bandsaw was made in Italy, other tools are from various other countries including the US. Overseas is a broad, useless term since most countries are "overseas" from here.
@@CGT80 Blithely bark all you want, pup, but using woke as a pejorative already lost you the argument.
@@natewalpole Being woke lost you the argument, sport.
@@allblooz why, he is absolutely right in everything he said. Not trying to start an argument, but calling China China is not a slight it’s a fact.
This VFD came from the same country covid did, china.
Probably should ground that box. And the lid.
I didn't see a single vacuum fluorescent display.
Educational video. Update your social media links above! I'm going to keep on you on this! LOL! ;)
Seeing that the box is metal ................ Did ya Earth it just incase as you never know.
I'd say the heat sink is grounding it pretty good but you're right. Should add an earth to the box.
Why do you call them glands, they are cord connectors. A standard hole saw will cut those 7/8” holes all day long. I know this because I’ve drilled 100’s if not 1,000’s of holes as a electrician/electrical contractor.
amzn.to/3vkL71F
heat kills vfds but not immediately, so you are just shortening the life of the vfd. probably not a huge deal for low use.
Thanks for posting this, still in the process of putting together my “revolution”. Would a plastic ammo can be a good alternate to the metal?
Yes, as long as it is sealable. I've seen tackle boxes used as well.
@@HouseMadeUS The plastic ammo cans will warp if they get hot, so keep that in mind. My shop gets over 100 deg in the summer when I’m not out there so I went with metal.