Tried bib when I started hard enduro in 16 cuz the euro pros where using it and made sense for flats. Quickly started drilling cutting, etc to get the feel right. After spending way too much time and money, and making messes in my shop, I graduated to tubliss in the rear, and back to tube in the front. Haven't looked back. Easy patches, last forever, best feel, blah blah, and guess what, you can adjust the pressure without a drill,,, what a concept. The only time I would use a bib is maybe a race when I didn't care how much money I was wasting and I needed ultimate flat proofness.
I'll travel to Montana just for the tire mounting part of your training. Even if I'd walked from here (Quebec) it'll save me loads of time within less than a year I'd say...
In the slick clay mud and mossy rocks here In Hawaii I like to be able to get er down to 1-2 psi if I really need to... only reason I run tubliss instead of mousse in the rear. I've been only running Nitromousse soft in front... thinking my next one I'll try the michelin mousse and see if it's a noticeable difference. I'm always way more indifferent to the front than I am the rear. The stock dunlop on the XC-W should be fucking illegal on a hard enduro bike.
Tubliss is the best for traction but a drilled Michelin is the ultimate for reliability. I run drilled bibs on my hard enduro race bike then on my play bike I run tubliss. -Matt
Do you feel drilling the bib negates the quality control you spoke of for choosing a Michelin bib in the first place? Once you drill it, you loose the sizing, the fit, and the feel Michelin worked to create.
Second. And I’m winning a 22 300se factory. Currently on a 300xc tpi lol. I also run either the at81ex or the Michelin. Both work well. Mousse of course. Soft as Shìt.
@@InsideEnduro I hope it’s me. 2 tickets a week until it’s over lol. I fucked up and rode a 21 Sherco a while back (smart carbed) for hours 13-18 on the bike. I absolutely loved it. They got their counterbalanced motor right man. I like the engine characteristics on the Sherco better than my 300xc tpi. Don’t get me wrong the Ktm is a great bike, but there was something about that Sherco dude. Not to mention it comes stock with a lot more shit to make it “Ready to Race” idk I just wanna go Sherco lol
Good info in here. Curious what you like for a front tire and Bib. I’ve seen some sizing inconsistencies with Michelin Bibs on a few front M15s I’ve used but still willing to continue down the Bib path because the others don’t have the feel and don’t last like the Michelin’s.
Depends how fast you want to go on road. Full knobby tires can get a little sketch. That being said, on my dual sport I run enduro tires because I care more about dirt performance. Shinko 505 is a decent option...anything that is cheap and has decent wear. Quite a few tires are not DOT approved tho
Totally depends. I have a bib with over 200 hours that is mangled but works great. I'd say with normal use expect at least 3-4 tires. If you run gummy tires and make sure to lube the mousse every tire change bibs can last for years. On the contrary, if you run a hard tire at high speeds until the tire basically falls off I have seen bibs literally disintegrate. All depends on application.
@@InsideEnduro is this the case with a drilled out mousse as well? Or does drilling it out decrease the life splan of the mousse running it under identical conditions as a non-drilled mousse. Thanks
Hi Mark! This is Rosemary with Inside Enduro. Thanks for the kind comments...I passed them on to James. He was using an 18 inch rim for that video. Cheers! Rosemary
This video is an instructional about how to drill the rear mousse. But you are correct, the front tire is VERY important. You do not drill the front mousse...it's function is very different to that of the rear tire. The rear tire's job is traction, which is why you need to adjust the PSI to meet your needs. We really like the Michelin mousses due to their consistent size and how they fit in the Michelin Enduro tires. Yes, the Michelin Enduro Xtrem rear tire is still the best out there (if you can find one), and the Michelin Enduro Medium Terrain Tire is the best front tire that we've tried (so far). If you have any questions, please post them here, or email admin@insideenduro.com.
If you go to insideenduro.com/products/1-25-mousse-drill and scroll down the page you'll see the most current instructions. There is a list of some of the recommended Mousse/Tire combinations on this document.
@@InsideEndurodisagree, there are different compounds used as raw materials and synthetic polymers are continuing to improve. e.g `Michelin use a butyl rubber which works well and is old school which has been modified over time to reach its max potential based on the current RM they use, vs other manufacturers in northern Europe who use compounded alternate elastomers and unique modified rubber components not used by Michelin which have different benefits, run cooler and improved longevity in retaining its shape. nitrogen is also used by a US company in conjunction with Butyl closed cell foam which is better for mx. I work in related industry and technology is always making changes, call it refinements.
Tried bib when I started hard enduro in 16 cuz the euro pros where using it and made sense for flats. Quickly started drilling cutting, etc to get the feel right. After spending way too much time and money, and making messes in my shop, I graduated to tubliss in the rear, and back to tube in the front. Haven't looked back. Easy patches, last forever, best feel, blah blah, and guess what, you can adjust the pressure without a drill,,, what a concept. The only time I would use a bib is maybe a race when I didn't care how much money I was wasting and I needed ultimate flat proofness.
I've only listened to your podcast until now. Every podcast someone brings up how you're a giant. It's true! You make that 18" rim look like a toy.
James is a Tank
I'll travel to Montana just for the tire mounting part of your training. Even if I'd walked from here (Quebec) it'll save me loads of time within less than a year I'd say...
In the slick clay mud and mossy rocks here In Hawaii I like to be able to get er down to 1-2 psi if I really need to... only reason I run tubliss instead of mousse in the rear. I've been only running Nitromousse soft in front... thinking my next one I'll try the michelin mousse and see if it's a noticeable difference. I'm always way more indifferent to the front than I am the rear. The stock dunlop on the XC-W should be fucking illegal on a hard enduro bike.
Tubliss is the best for traction but a drilled Michelin is the ultimate for reliability. I run drilled bibs on my hard enduro race bike then on my play bike I run tubliss. -Matt
I wanna see those mounts 😳
Must be big hunter 👍
This is as good as it can get when it comes to good advice and information for hard enduro setups!
Thanks brother!!!
Do you feel drilling the bib negates the quality control you spoke of for choosing a Michelin bib in the first place? Once you drill it, you loose the sizing, the fit, and the feel Michelin worked to create.
Not at all. Drilling the bib helps tailor them to our specific riding.
Second. And I’m winning a 22 300se factory. Currently on a 300xc tpi lol. I also run either the at81ex or the Michelin. Both work well. Mousse of course. Soft as Shìt.
We can't wait to see who wins that bike!!!! Good luck!
@@InsideEnduro I hope it’s me. 2 tickets a week until it’s over lol. I fucked up and rode a 21 Sherco a while back (smart carbed) for hours 13-18 on the bike. I absolutely loved it. They got their counterbalanced motor right man. I like the engine characteristics on the Sherco better than my 300xc tpi. Don’t get me wrong the Ktm is a great bike, but there was something about that Sherco dude. Not to mention it comes stock with a lot more shit to make it “Ready to Race” idk I just wanna go Sherco lol
The bummer with tire, is it's so soft, I ran 2 stobs clean through it. I should go tubliss I guess.
appreciate the detailed advice, thanks
Hilarious man, love the vids. All great info!
Glad you like them! More on the way
what would be the best set up for muddy/clay, wet roots and rock and hill climbs? on 300xc
I would go with some type of gummy tire with either tubliss or a soft bib.
Good info in here. Curious what you like for a front tire and Bib. I’ve seen some sizing inconsistencies with Michelin Bibs on a few front M15s I’ve used but still willing to continue down the Bib path because the others don’t have the feel and don’t last like the Michelin’s.
We mainly run the Michelin medium front stuffed with M15. That sucks you have experienced inconsistent sizing because we have been luck thus-far.
Great video, what is the tire size? 120 or 140 paired with that M14. Thanks.
Big dawg 140!
I'm looking for a tyre to ride 60/40 road, any ideas?
Depends how fast you want to go on road. Full knobby tires can get a little sketch. That being said, on my dual sport I run enduro tires because I care more about dirt performance. Shinko 505 is a decent option...anything that is cheap and has decent wear. Quite a few tires are not DOT approved tho
James what size tire are you meeting this M 14 with?
140-80-18 Michelin Xtreme
How long does the foam insert last? And is there any maintenance involved to make them last ? Thanks
Totally depends. I have a bib with over 200 hours that is mangled but works great. I'd say with normal use expect at least 3-4 tires. If you run gummy tires and make sure to lube the mousse every tire change bibs can last for years. On the contrary, if you run a hard tire at high speeds until the tire basically falls off I have seen bibs literally disintegrate. All depends on application.
@@InsideEnduro is this the case with a drilled out mousse as well? Or does drilling it out decrease the life splan of the mousse running it under identical conditions as a non-drilled mousse. Thanks
How long does one of these tires last?
Want this tire but comes in 18.since I have a 19 what tire comes close to this thanks
Irc Ix-09 Gekkota
First , and I have a 21 500 factory 😎
OHHHHH Yeah!!! I lusted over the 500's we had in - Matt
What is your go-to for the front? Do you run the mousse without any hole? ty
Yes! Bib in the front with zero holes
You must go through a fair few mousses by the looks of all those antlers ?
No, just arrows
Dude I want to hear some stories
About all the bone up in the rafters
James is an assassin!
What width rim are you putting that on? Also. Great video btw!
Hi Mark! This is Rosemary with Inside Enduro. Thanks for the kind comments...I passed them on to James. He was using an 18 inch rim for that video. Cheers! Rosemary
Yes I was asking how wide the rim was that he was installing a 140/80-18 on. Especially with the moose.
@@markdeamelia7452 Normal width rim 2.15" x 18"
Awesome. Thank you so much for the info 🤘🏻
My question ❓ can be ride on road also ...it's safe!!!!
Why is front tire setup so rarely discussed? Compliance in the front is super important in enduro.
This video is an instructional about how to drill the rear mousse. But you are correct, the front tire is VERY important. You do not drill the front mousse...it's function is very different to that of the rear tire. The rear tire's job is traction, which is why you need to adjust the PSI to meet your needs. We really like the Michelin mousses due to their consistent size and how they fit in the Michelin Enduro tires. Yes, the Michelin Enduro Xtrem rear tire is still the best out there (if you can find one), and the Michelin Enduro Medium Terrain Tire is the best front tire that we've tried (so far). If you have any questions, please post them here, or email admin@insideenduro.com.
Expecially?
If you go to insideenduro.com/products/1-25-mousse-drill and scroll down the page you'll see the most current instructions. There is a list of some of the recommended Mousse/Tire combinations on this document.
k
I heard drilling holes is old school an a waste of time with the new tech these days
Fake news. New technology in bibs is just snake oil. Bibs have not changed since we begun using them.
@@InsideEndurodisagree, there are different compounds used as raw materials and synthetic polymers are continuing to improve. e.g `Michelin use a butyl rubber which works well and is old school which has been modified over time to reach its max potential based on the current RM they use, vs other manufacturers in northern Europe who use compounded alternate elastomers and unique modified rubber components not used by Michelin which have different benefits, run cooler and improved longevity in retaining its shape. nitrogen is also used by a US company in conjunction with Butyl closed cell foam which is better for mx. I work in related industry and technology is always making changes, call it refinements.