Sway Back Adjustment for a one-piece garment by Sure Fit Designs
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- Опубликовано: 10 мар 2019
- www.surefitdesigns.com www.sfdLearningCenter.com Learn how to alter/adjust a blouse or one-piece dress for a sway back. Sure-Fit Designs™ provides an easy fitting, designing and sewing system that allows you to blueprint your body shape and size, which results in a personalized sloper fit. See how simple and easy it is. Learn how the Sure-Fit Designs™ fitting and sewing system can benefit you to achieve a well-fitting sewing pattern for pants, blouses, skirts, dresses, jackets, shirts, children’s wear and men’s pants. At www.sfdLearningCenter.com, you’ll find free sewing and fitting assistance with complete instructional content. Sure-Fit Designs™ provides an easy fitting, designing and sewing system that allows you to blueprint your body shape and size, which results in a personalized fit -- your personal sloper. The Sure-Fit Designs™ fitting system is based on your body shape and circumferences. The master patterns range from 28” to 62” (71 cm - 157.5cm) in your bust and hip area. Your body blueprint will fit; the resulting patterns will fit.
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You're my new favorite person. I swear you are the only person on the internet who has done this!!
Glad you found this video useful!
Me too, I have a swayback but have never seen this method before. Thank you so much Glenda
I have a swayback and this is a new way for me to fix the pattern I will certainly be trying this. Thank you Glenda.
Thanks Glenda. I will get pick the threads around the lining and get in side. Then make the waist darts. Thanks so much. You are a sweetheart.
What a great method for sway back adjustment! Can`t wait to try this out! Thank you!
I'm glad this can be of help for you.
This was extremely helpful, thanks for spending time creating it. I love how you said "okeydoke" at the beginning. My grandma always said that and she was my sewing inspiration. Thanks 😘
You are most welcome. Sometimes I just never know what's going to come out of my mouth :)
Awesome as usual Glenda! Thank you!
You are most welcome.
This came at the right time. I often sew for a friend with a swayback and have been trying to adjust a pattern for her that just was not working. I will give this a try!
This may work for some and not for others, so yes, definitely give it a try -perhaps a 'muslin' test first.
this is one of the best swayback adjustments I found. to make your lesson more easy to follow, try to have the camera focussed on the pattern manipulations instead of moving frequently between you and the work you do. that way we can stay focussed on the pattern.
Excellence tutorial! Easy to understand and very helpful. Thank you!
@Sydney Zvara - You are most welcome and thank you for your feedback.
Great interview, would like to see Elsabe Hurn too. Thank you so much Bernard and Glenda.
A complicated method to remember but interesting. Thanks for sharing. Again I also learned from the comments too!
Yes I agree - this process has quite a bit of detail, but it works for those 1-piece garments.
Love The tutorial. I am a member and learn so much. Thank you.
Betty Champlin - thanks so much for your comments. I'm so glad the information has been of such benefit for you.
I really enjoy your videos. I have this problem because of a pelivic tilt and I need the extra width in the back. thank you so much for explaining this. most people with this problem need the little extra back width
You are most welcome...I'm glad this information was of such benefit for you.
That was brilliant. Thanks for the Tutorial
@sew with Happiness - thanks so much for your input and positive comments. I'm glad it was of benefit for you.
Thank you so much, as you said at the beginning, my dress was too tight on the hips! You saved me lots of work 😊
Glad this was of benefit to you!
Watching this fascinating video today 11th April 22 from Cape Town in South Africa. Thank you kindly Maam .
So glad you are enjoying it, Shaistha.
Whaaaa? You have blown my mind. I have been waiting to be shown this exact adjustment! I can't wait to try it out.
Merci pour perfect explication ! 😑
Thats superb
Thank you, @Artisitc Hub. Your positive comment is much appreciated.
Thank you very much for this video. Now I finally understand exactly why most of my blouses don't have a good fit, and what to do about it. I will try your method on a simple top pattern; I think this just might do the trick!
say what - you are most welcome. I'm glad the information was of such benefit for you.
Hi Glenda I really love watching all your videos..could you please do a tutorial of drafting bodice pattern for origami bamboo tops?
exactly whAT i NEED to know more. I have just recently sewed a blouse, but it came out at the center back that there is some kind of folds I should say stuck at the waistline. thank you Glenda of Surefit design.
@Melinda Pates - you are most welcome...glad to hear SFD is of benefit to your sewing.
Fascinating and thank you so much for taking time to do this great video!! What a great solution to making it possible to do a sway back adjustment but still be able to avoid a CB seam. One concern I have though is that this adjustment changes the slope of the shoulder seam. I am always struggling to get the right angle for my square shoulders. Is there something else you recommend to keep the slope the same?
No there really isn't anything that can be done about the angle of the shoulder seam as it will definitely change using this sway back process. You can always test the result and then if you're not satisfied you can try modifying the angle of the shoulder seam to your liking.
I have a 46" waist, and only 3" more over the hips, and ive found to get the best fit at the back is to make sure i have 2 datrs at the back. My hip measurement isnt much bigger (but my bulging front tummy is still bigger than my what ppl would assume my bum is) for my size. But with a deep sway back with also a hip height diff and scoliosis, ive nailed fitting skirts here. I have found, that given i have a larger back waist seam, 2 deep short darts work the best. One shorter than the other, with the shorter one closer to the hip. this prevents the CB seam or zipper needing to be on a curve. THEN i add a shoulder pad into the lining on the lower hip to make sure the waistband sits horizontally and therefore the hem also sits straight. Fitting curved spines is a bit tricky.
Roxann Legg - thanks for your comments. We do have a video on how to add a second dart to the waist edge. Please see this video - ruclips.net/video/Jji0bw_8zWU/видео.html
Hi, Glenda, this tutorial is awsome! ❤I have a little question - like Alex below. Why don´t you just move the upper part downwards that 1" and why do you move it sidewards as well - and gain the extra width (that must be later taken off from the sideseam)? Please, advise.
As usual Glenda, your videos are SO good. Thorough and easy to follow and great timing, I need one of these on everything I make. Question for you, how much can you remove safely? On my BB I used 2 methods because of the amount I needed to adjust, but I’d really like to try this on a knit top.
Thanks Chris - to answer your question - you need to give this a try, but I think about 1.5" might be maximum because of the shoulder seam distortion. With any alteration, there is generally some kind of a consequence. It's hard for me to test as I don't have a sway back (nor do my mannequins).
I'm late but I'm doing this method with 1.5 inches and I'll let you know how it ends up!
Hi Glenda, for best result, should I do this before adding the seam allowance to my body blueprint? By the way, I have just done this on a commercial pattern that I knew fitted well everywhere else, using your tracing vellum. I really like this method compared to the ones I tried before, such as pivot and slide (which distorted the neck and shoulder line and I was not sure how best to fix it) and the tuck method with tissue fitting, which didn’t work too well either as I needed at leat 1” to be taken out. Many thanks!
I don't think it much matters if you have seam allowances or not when doing this refinement.
surefitdesigns Thank you for responding! I agree, I have done it a second time on a different pattern yesterday with seam allowance added and it worked like a dream.
Going to do it on another top today. Practice makes perfect. ☺️ Thank you!
I have what I think is a swayback. Great tutorial But I have noticed bunching higher up my back in the area between my shoulder blades and mid back. What is done in that case?
Debbie Ballenger - in order to best assess the bunching that is happening higher up, I really need to see a photo to give an accurate assessment. Please send a photo directly to info@surefitdesigns.com with an accompanying request for evaluation.
Hi Glenda, can I use this technique for a shirt dress and a commercial shift dress pattern as well? Thank you!
Yes, you can.
Glenda Sparling Thank you!
Hello, great video, thank you. One question though - why wouldn’t you take out the extra width added in the back by just using the inner centre back line, rather than using the outer one and then redrawing the side seam? Would that cause issues elsewhere? Thanks!
Because the upper back width also ended up getting wider and you'll want to remove that extra width.
Ok. Not sure I quite understand, as surely if you used the inner centre back line (by that, I mean the one at the bottom of the block on the piece which hasn’t been played around with - is that clear?! Not quite sure how to describe which bit I mean!) then wouldn’t that solve the extra width in the upper back?
Thanks Glenda, I have my kit from back in the mail order days! Question, why did you get that jog in the pattern? If that was pulled down straight could we avoid that jog? That is where I am confused. Thanks!!!
The upper back won't pull straight down and stay on the straight of grain. When you pull straight down, it creates the jog.
@@surefitdesigns OK, thanks! Will give it a try.
Я так поняла, линию плеча мы не меняем. Она так и остаётся?
How would I do a sway back adjustment with a seam on center back. I can’t find any articles or videos. Is is like a half dart/ curve on center back?
Kirie Himuro - yes, you would use the seam and shape it like a dart.
Very good video. However, you didn't mention how the top of the pattern at the shoulder was to be drawn/re-drawn. It feels like your video ended too soon.
@SewAndTellwithDori - sorry that it wasn't complete enough for you, I must have simply overlooked the shoulder line. Simply connect from the neck point to the shoulder point in a straight line which will true the shoulder. The angle of the shoulder line definitely changes.
Can I add waist darts on the back of a ready made blazer to adjust swayback?
AW - it all depends on if you can access the inside of the jacket. If it's lined, it would definitely be more difficult to unpick the lining - sew the darts...then re-sew.
😘😘😘😘😘
Q/ what about the neck area, that was changed also?
@Mary Burt - the shape of the neckline hasn't changed. Yes, it's been lowered down, but when it sits back up at your regular neck level, that plus the shoulder slope change lifts the CB up, shortening the entire CB which is what is required for the sway back.
Do you need to add an inch to the length of the blouse-back pattern piece so the front and back are the same length?
No - the side seams have not changed in length.
You're removing the inch because of your sway back...if you were to add another 1" you've just defeated the purposed of the alteration.
I've watched the video twice and I still don't see how this solves the sway back problem. I don't see why any changes need to be made to the shoulder area when the problem is at the back waist line. Why not use the usual method of pinching out the necessary amount from the center back to nothing at the side seam? What you are showing seems overly complicated, but maybe I am missing something in your method. I need to make a sway back adjustment in my pattern so I am very interested in your thoughts. Thanks.
If you pinch out at CB to nothing at the side seam, then you distort the center back as it will no longer be able to be put on the Fold of the fabric. You'd need to have a CB seam in order to shape as you are describing. That is totally possible if you will use a CB seam. What I've shown is removing the length at the low back and still maintained CB on the fold.
@@surefitdesigns Thanks for explaining. Since I also have a rounded back and sway back adjustment to make, I almost always need a center back seam. Your method makes sense now. Thanks again.
@@elizabetha2446 - well, if you already have a CB seam, then do the adjustment your way - it would only make sense. This video was designed for those who want to keep CB on the fold. There's always more than 'one way to skin a cat'.
Thank you both Glenda, Elizabeth for your explanations but I beg to differ, you can use a pinching method and still be able to keep CB on fold by correcting the distorted CB, what I usually do is after I have pinched out the amount to be removed on pattern, I draw a straight line from top of CB to the hem, you will notice there is a considerable amount of paper pattern that lays out of the CB after the line is drawn, cut it off and you will be left with a straight CB again,measure the widhth of the paper you have cut out and add it to the side seam by extending the hem width with same same amount then join this line with the waist. Let me know of your thoughts on this.
@@emmy179 I'm having trouble following your instructions here... I know I'm really late but I feel like you're onto something and I'm new to sewing and trying to make this sway back adjustment. Do you mean you'd draw a line from CB to waistline while the muslin is still on the person? Could you describe a little more clearly as if you're describing it to an idiot or someone who is brand new to sewing? I'm a little desperate haha.
It looks like you are actually removing 2 inches of fabric...a double fold of 1 inch.
Question: the neckline seems to be much lower but you didn’t mention that. Do any changes need to be made to the neckline? I guess since you kept the hem even, the neckline will be an inch lower or whatever amount is removed for the sway back adjustment.
Phyllis Campbell - yes, this does pull the neckline and change the angle of the shoulder line. You can't add the length back in at the neckline, you'd be simply adding back in the length that you are trying to remove. Just give it a try and see if you like it.