Painting an entire miniature using The Army Painter's Speed Paints 2.0
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- Trying out @The Army Painter 's new Speed Paint 2.0 range and painting up an Imperial Fist! Waited a long time to make this video, but I think the yellow is how I always wanted the marine to look!
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#imperialfists #wh40k #speedpaints #speedpainting #speedpaints #speedpaint2.0 Игры
Pro Tip: before you apply decal softener over ANY miniature, you should give it a varnish. Preferably a gloss coat to help the decal lay flat. Decal softener doesn't just soften decals ;) But - GREAT to see the new paints used in a real world application. We hope that the rest of the community finds that it's better suited to more painting styles.
Good tip!
I learned this with car models. I made the mistake of trying to apply decals over acrylic paint without varnishing over it first. I didn’t blame anybody, it was just my inexperience. I hope this new line is a big success for you guys.
Exactly as you wrote from AP. In typical modeling, varnish is used for decals, assumptions because chemical solutions for decals are aggressive agents, I think it's not entirely the paint's fault. That should also be taken into account.
HAHA I didnt see your comment first but this! so much this.
This.. decals over gloss always. Doesn't matter what paint you used, it prevents silvering too👍🏻
I use the decal softener with other brands of paint and they have all reactivated. Since then I varnish before I use decals and that helps a lot.
This is a very helpful comment! Thank you
This.
There it is! Golden content! Thank you so much for trying the varnish 🖤
No problem! Glad we could answer that question and produce a meaningful tutorial for people at the same time! Happy painting!
Those new speeds paints are making me moist. Can't wait for April. I am gonna paint everything in a speedy fashion.
I was just saying to Mike, I think I’m done doing anything that isn’t Speedpaint! I just want my miniatures looking awesome but have time to actually play with them! :D
I thought we weren't allowed to use the M-word on the internet...
I said moist a whole bunch at the start of this video and I think it was Barry’s fault from his comments recently :-D
I too am excited about Speed Paint! Great video and great looking paint job!
Thank you! I get to share that excitement as there’s still another 20 colours coming I’ve not used yet! :D can’t wait
Wow really impressed with that yellow 👍
Might have to give these speed paints a try now (currently use citadel / vallejo) as these videos you have done have been really informative 🙂
Yeah this yellow is really good. I might compare it directly to the Imperial Fist yellow next :O I think they look almost the same
that's a beautiful Imperial Fist!
Thank you very much
Your space marine came out fantastic !! Very excited to get my hands on that yellow Along with the other new speed paints! Also loved how you tinted the bronze with the murder red. Would love to see other combos with the metallics along with the new range
Thank you! We’ll see what else we can play with going forwards :)
Imperial Fisters ftw! :) Thanks for making an old and obviously dirty mind chuckle. :)
As for the yellow itself. Looks brilliant. Can't wait to see more off the other new SP's.
Haha. Glad you enjoyed that. I’m way too immature :-D yes I’m a huge fan of this yellow! Can’t wait to find more uses for it. Happy painting!
I really enjoy your humour and that you don't take yourself too seriously, particularly the Reese's moment, quality! 😁 Please continue with awesome content on speedpaint 2.0, I'm getting prepped up for when I receive my mega set 😊
Thanks man! For a second when that popped up I read it as “I don’t really enjoy your humour” :-D was like woah! What have I done! Hehe glad I misread it. It’s funny during editing because I hear the same thing 10-100 times it loses all meaning to me and all humour. So it’s lovely to hear that it doesn’t all fall flat and entertains. Enjoy your mega set! I’ve never painted so much before, this set has made me love painting so much more
FYI- GW created Scar White as a replacement for Wraith Bone for contrast paints as it caused issued with some of their contrast line. I've used it with the Army Painter stuff a fair bit and have never had an issue, but worth considering.
Love this if this was around back when I was a kid I would of had Imperial Fists for sure
I really wanted an Imperial Fist army, no way could I bring myself to paint that much yellow. Times have change man, times have changed :-D
Back before i got myself some inks, i did a test mixing for wash/contrast effects using vallejo paints and either soap or alcohol infused medium (pva glue + water). My experience was the soapy mix worked better but without medium pulled too much pigment into recesses for what i was trying to use it for, but the alcohol mixes had the same bleed effect as some speedpaints. May be connected somehow, although the alcohol had a reaction with the PVA making it not viable consistently. Also didn't try it with a gloss undercoat which may be a culprit, since the matt is more 'grainy' allowing the alcohol to spread more. Food for thought.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Looking forward to more colors being shown!
Any in particular?
Thx for this! Need a space marine expiation diagram handy!
I do! I love that I’ve learnt it all in the past but just forget between times I’m painting them. You need like a degree in 40k lore! It’s so rich
So excited for this! They will be mine. Oh, yes, they will be mine.
Not too long left to wait now!
Another couple of tips for the decals: first, old decals that have seen better days can be refreshed with a thin layer of Microscale Liquid Decal Film (from the same people who make Micro Set and Micro Sol). You also typically get better results if you lay down a bit of decal setter like Micro Set (Vallejo's is called Decal Fix) before the decal, then another layer after if it looks like it needs the help, and then the softener when that's dry. (It's also a good idea to give the varnish plenty of time to cure before the softener; a few hours at least in my experience.)
That yellow is beautiful!
I love it too!
Nice, it turn out really neaty. Maybe you could try to mix those 2 yellows, the old one with the new one and see if it darkens or better, do a wash with the old to this mini in order to darken the recesses, just saying a thought
Good ideas! I need to play around with that
That corn cob yellow 😘 👌
*flaccid bone lol
@6:01 "what do you call those bird skulls on the floor"
**MY SIDES**!!!
Seriously, though, thanks for the video. I have some experience with the 1.0 speedpaints and I've been more or less happy with them even though I often feel like the result ends up looking 'messy', it's less so than the results I've had from contrast paints. I am looking forward to getting my hands on some of the new 2.0 speedpaints. Probably not a full set but at least a few colours.
I never remember what anything is :-D glad you enjoyed. Yeah sounds like you wanna pick up just a couple to see how you get on! I find they are less messy than contrast but maybe I use more/less. Something will be different! Happy painting!
This is a brilliant video and exactly the kind of test we could have done with before investing in version 1 Speedpaints.
What an excellent result from SP2 I'll definitely be selling my SP1s and getting some of these new updated versions.
Thanks for covering the decal softener, hehe yeah I tried varnishing SP1 with brush on gloss varnish which obviously messed up horribly. So decal application on SP1 is never going to work (unless you gloss spray varnish the whole mini?)
SP2 looks much more robust against that VJ softener 👏👍👌.
Thanks again for your time with this video, AP should give you a little bonus for positive promotion of SP2 😉☺️.
Absolutely! I guess just no one was looking for it with Speedpaint 1. I certainly didn’t consider it and I painted a lot! But I guess not enough and without enough lead time. Props to Army Painter for bringing in help. They have the whole team actively trying to find problems, suggestions and make this the best it can be for everyone.
I think you’ll be good to varnish now, but you’ll need to put varnish on before softener. A lot of people have said you need to anyway to me but I think it was still worth it to see how it did without!
Thanks for the comment and putting me on to the softener! I didn’t know it existed! And it makes for a lot better looking decals. You do owe me £15 though. One cannot simply buy a single item from a hobby store :-D :-D
I havent used that brand of decal softener but I know with the green stuff world you are supposed to put a varnish on the spot for the decal before you add the decal.
Absolutely! I think that’s always the case. I should have said that in the video. I was pushing the paint hard. But it was a question asked so we wanted to try it out. But you’re totally right, varnish it first like you’re supposed to and it won’t bleed at all!
@@WatchItPaintIt that was a pretty dang good test and I think even regular acrylic would suffer there.
"Maize Yellow" every time you say that name i start to hum the University of Michigan fight song.
The symbol on his chest is called the Imperialis. The Aquila is the double headed eagle.
Oooooh damnnnnn!!!! Thanks for the heads up! My memory sucks though so look forward to correcting me every time I paint a spacemarine :,( honestly though, thank you for dropping that info
@@WatchItPaintIt no worries, it's one of those things that most folks do. I am able to keep them straight by thinking of the meaning. The Aquila symbolizes the Imperium itself with the two heads representing Mars and Terra. The Imperialis is the imperium rising from the death and destruction of the Horus heresy.
Hi! Thank you for the great video! Is there any chance to differ between the SP 1.0 bottles and the new ones version 2? I mean, if someone buys them at the local store, how can be sure what is sold?
The boxes are obvious which is which and when they release singles they will all say 2.0 on them! The next print run will make the labels better :)
As someone new to painting... Every time I watch one of these videos of people painting the mini is huge. Then I hold mine and im like 'how the hell can you even paint these details...'
Zoom and enhance! Don’t forget you can get a few magnifiers if that could help! But after 5 years of painting. I still feel like you everything I pick up a mini :-D
Knee pits! 😂 Looked it up and the correct term is "popliteal fossa". So knee pits it is!
Hahaha. Love you looked it up :D
Now I want that yellow for the moons on my goblins' shields! Also I tested out brushing on vallejo water-based airbrush varnish on speedpaints 1.0. Even though at the end the brush left some tinted lines on the pallet, the model itself doesn't look affected. Still I'll probably wait till i have an airbrush and try again on another test mini before varnishing any other ones that way.
Thank you very much for the last few videos where you try to bully the paints and see what will happen!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad you’ve enjoyed the videos and notice that it is “bullying”. Pushing these overly hard so people can see and know what they are getting.
Dammmnn, you just made me want to go paint goblins. Are there new ones? Or are the GW fantasy ones from decades ago what we are both thinking of? :D
@@WatchItPaintIt the really old ones on square bases :D. Some from Skullpass and some bought when my first friendly game store was closing. And even some older sculpts, I have a partially painted box of night gobbos from 2003 or so :D. Those I want to strip and repaint. Gobbos are ideal for slapchopping :)
@@SavageBehir haha yes! I have some of those on my desk :-D painted them the other week with my daughter 😀
@@WatchItPaintIt I love those miniatures. They are not overdetailed, so it's easy to batch paint them and really see progress :)
what brand of brush on varnish are you using? i rly liked the soft look on the finished product
We normally use either Army Painter matte varnish, Liquitex matte varnish - but anything matte should do the trick
Very good video, very informative. I am very curious to know how long this took, how long you let the speed paint dry before painting the knee. Also curious if the whole color range is consistent, or like contrast with some actually doing a one coat, and others.. well, act more like a glaze
Thank you!
I waited about 1.5 hours (just painted when I was ready - I didn’t really sit and wait) before painting the knee. They recommend about 2 hours to let it cure hard but I’m finding it’s a little quicker than that. Definitely finding them very consistent, one of the first things we noticed with Speedpaint 1.0 was how consistent application was, it’s the same with her Speedpaint 2.0
2.0 look so promising. Really hoping the UK price point is in my budget! You mentioned the basing. I had a look and can't find a video explaining that specific debris style. Is it an aquarium stone?
It’s charcoal I think from Gatehouse Gaming UK - it’s called Wildfire. Hope you get Speedpaint in budget!
@@WatchItPaintIt Thanks, always nice to find another UK supplier.
What do you use on the base of marine? (stones etc?)
It’s little pieces of charcoal. The video is linked at the end screen if you would like to check it out
Awesome t-shirt man!
Thank you!
Maize Yellow? I thought Khorne was red?
Haha - a chaos dad joke? You're definitely a heretic!
How do you get such a nice looking colour, I recently used my speed paint 2.0 to paint some smooth models and im getting very blotchy results, and trying to fix it made it look worse due to the quick drying.
Would love to see you paint a black space marine using the new 2.0 range only!
I think you kinda of answered yourself! Be quick and don’t go back over any of the paint. I use way more paint than you’d think, I make sure it’s really wet on the model giving me the most time to get complete coverage. I never go over the same area twice, like you say it dries quick, even 10s later can be too late. So I concentrate on getting each area blocked in. Paint on side of a panel at a time before you move on to another piece.
Hope these tips help you! My space marines aren’t perfect, it’s a very hard model to make these paints work well on, so just keep practising and I wish you luck!
You the kinda guy who needs a friend like me lol
How long did you let the yellow dry before painting the white over? Thanks!
Under the two hours they recommend! But it was probably a good hour
hi se necesita disolver la pintura o es directamente a pintar las esculturas de Resina ? wow mis respetos ...
Prime the miniature and apply the paint directly :-)
Enfin un vrai jaune
Oui oui oui!
Would it be better to soak the decal in the softener, before applying to the model? Therefore less volume of chemical across the model.
You would risk tearing the decal when you go to apply it or merging it with the paper its already on. It is better to remove the decal from the paper with water, slide it onto the model, and soften the decal with the softener so it conforms to the surface. Be sure to gloss varnish the area before applying the decal.
I always like to think of purity seals as awards for growing massive vegetables 😂
Could you show the yellow on a light brown undercoat?
Got a specific miniature in mind? I’d be happy to try that but I don’t know how I’d cover it in a video. Are you on our discord?
@@WatchItPaintIt I did not know you had one... I will be in a sec
Oh it's a Patreon thing 😅 well I will be when I get a job and I can pay me electric bills again 😅🤣
@@arenthus you do have to join Patreon, it's a restricted Discord, but a single donation will be lifetime access. Completely up to you, but I'll specifically test yellow on brown if you ask me in there (because it doesn't involve a video to show you the result :D)
Well my point is, I play Imperial Fists myself
And the yellow is a bit to bright for my taste. And I was wondering if a brown undercoat would darken it a bit
*whispers Battletech into the air*
If it helps, I believe that the knee covers are officially called "Knee Thingies". I could be wrong. I'll have to check the lore.
🤔
Do you know if ap will be releasing a box that contains the missing 40 colours from the new 90 set that was just announced? Thanks again for another great video, much appreciated 🙂
There’s nothing missing in the Complete Set of 90…it’s complete 😊
@@TheArmyPainter sorry I didn't word that question very well. I meant will there be a set to make up the missing colours if you have pre-ordered the 50 set already
@@flipsyde84 not quite, but all will be available as singles soon after release.
@@TheArmyPainter awesome, thanks for getting back to me :)
These work allot better with a zenithal workflow followed by white dry brush
You reckon? I will try it out!
@@WatchItPaintIt absolutely mate. The contrast from the light to dark shades is greater. Black primer- white airbrush or rattle can of white then dry brush a bright white over the highest bits
Lore time!
Purity seals are given to space marines before battle or campaigns by their chapter chaplain as a blessing and mark of honor. If they survive can can, if the chose, make these permanent by getting a metal replica of them attached on their armor.
The knee marking are the colors of that space marine's company, they can be a bit all over the place depending on the chapter of space marines. It can be rims of shoulder plates, gun cases, helmets, and so on. The markings can be called different things depending on the chapter, White Scars and Space Wolves have different name for it, but they mean the same thing.
It is NOT a faction badge or whatever, it is a chapter badge. Their faction is the Empire of Mankind, subfaction Space Marines.
I do enjoy a bit of 40k lore :)
Haha. I love this. Thank you! I expect I will not remember it. But I can’t even try to remember what I didn’t know! Thank you again
This Tutorial is only for beginner!
I’m pretty far from a “beginner”. And this tutorial is how I paint :-D this tutorials not for everyone! But just because we don’t all want golden demons doesn’t mean this tutorial is only for beginners :-D
Good to see what can be done with the new colors. It is a very efficient way to paint. The yellow is very much not imperial fist yellow (its too bright) BUT It is a very good bright yellow and good to see what it can do. The only thing i'm not sold on is the metallic speedpaints. I just don't think they look very good at all compared to regular metallic + speedpaint. If I'm doing colored metal I will still use AP shining silver and then a 50/50 thinned speedpaint to tint it. To me it just looks better in every case.
What's hard to experience viewing the Metallis Speedpaints on video is how smooth and strong they cover compared to standard metallics.
I wondered that with the yellow while I was painting it. But he Citadel Contrast colour Imperial Fist looked exactly the same? Is that the wrong colour too?
I think silver with a coloured Speedpaint on top is better, but it is more work. A lot of things will be better, but as with life, need more effort putting in! I think they’ll be times I don’t care and speed is all that matters, but sometimes I’ll fall back to the slightly slower alternatives. Either way I’m pretty much done with ever painting “normal” gold again :-D
Would fit Lamenters well…
Hmm I don’t really see orange in zealot yellow but then again my eyes have issues with color deficiency however I’ve always thought it’s been limited too blue and green.
I didn’t really notice it *that* much too. Perhaps I have some colour issues as well. Did you see the video on all 90 colours? You can see the difference super easy there!
@@WatchItPaintIt yeah I noticed the other yellow is more bright by far I’ll have too see myself once I get the new set .
Imperial Fister hahaha
I’m so immature
Ok...where can I buy the shirt?
Haha. Thought I was sneaking that by subtlety :D
watch-it-paint-it-shop.fourthwall.com
You’ll be the second person in the world to own one :D we just made a shop this week
i will be honnest here reactivation is an issue espeacially with decals. i actually like the metallic range but the reactivation after decalsoftner makes them unusable for every army than needs decals not good
Aren’t you supposed to use varnish before softener anyway? The tutorial I watched said to, I’m just a badass so didn’t.
@@WatchItPaintIt for better adhesion you can do it most definetly but for most paints micro sol and micro set are no problem at all
Maybe it isn’t an issue with lacquers or enamels, but ‘most paints’? No. These are water based, use a clear coat first.
@@Ryotsu2112 untrue i use mainly acrylics and never had it bleed through any paint. if i applied varnish or not
Los que tenemos las normales ...vais dar la oportunidad de cambiarlas gratis??
There’s nothing wrong with the original paints, they just made them better. So no, you don’t deserve the brand new product for free just because there’s a better version.
They are including the most popular for free in the bigger sets, so I guess that's one way... But as @sadis72 said, it's just a property really, that you can work with, or avoid, the black in this video reactivates, and it just helped shade the edge of the shoulder pads for me a little more! I also got black on bits I didn't want to while painting the rubber, and just rubbed it off with water! There are positives to the property too...
I hate to sound condescending, but if anyone is complaining about reactivation when applying micro sol and micro set to a painted miniature that's kind of user error. You shouldn't even be using those products on models painted with regular acrylics without applying a layer of varnish underneath at least with a brush in the spot the decal is going.
A lot of the reactivation complaints seem to be coming from people that are using questionable painting practices and expecting the product to be indestructible for purposes it was never intended for. Even my APSP 1.0 paints have never given me troubles because I include steps to protect the work I've already done before moving on to putting stuff overtop of it. Take a few seconds to varnish your stuff before throwing other products onto it.
I really enjoyed this comment. Thank you. Not condescending at all! I wish I’d mentioned this in the video but I’d never used decal softener before so was just literally testing it out from some questions we were asked but you’re completely correct, using it directly without varnish is just a bad idea with any paint!
If you’ve not watched many of our videos I have the same view as you, 1.0 reactivation was a non issue for me. It caused me one problem, once, in a year of painting! I get that it’s not for everyone, and you have to be careful around it, but I think a lot is just hearing some people have issues with it and then just deciding it’s a bigger problem than it is! Oh well, hopefully a thing of the past with 2.0 and going forwards. Thanks again for your insights!
@Watch It Paint It totally agreed! Even just giving it some time to dry properly (which AP recommends) is often all you need to avoid most of the reactivation people complain about. And personally, while I'm actively applying the paint, I actually like that it reactivates early on because all I need is a brush or q-tip and some water and I can clean up my mistakes as if they never happened.
I have the complete 2.0 set pre-ordered for the 27th and I can't wait for it to come in. Speedpaints (as well as the Vallejo Xpress line) have cut my painting time in half with how fast I can base and shade now and the highlights you do get are a great way to identify which areas you might want to brighten up even further when you are doing detail work.
Heheh, "flacid bone".
10:35 Flaccid bone 😷
Slip on the tongue!
Nah. Now the "speed"paints crackle instead of reactivate and they arent opaque and vibrant as the version 1. Maybe with Speedpaint 4.0 then.
I’d say outside of Army Painter I’ve painted more with Speedpaint 2.0 than anyone. I’ve seen the cracking 0 times so far. So something must be different? Specific primers? Weather? I’d love to see it to say how to avoid it :D I believe it happens etc just frustrating to never have seen it in person… as for the colours, I’ve not tried them all but the ones I’ve compared against 1.0 and 2.0 I couldn’t tell the difference! Do you know which colours are less vibrant/opaque?
Great, now we know it for sure: the reactivation property will continue in the new speedpaints 2.0. I do not care, but this is not quite what army painter had promised.
Did you see some of the other comments. It sounds like decal softener can reactivate a lot of things! It was my first time using it, so I thought it was just unique to Speedpaints but it might be other paints would do the same!…
Hi Viktor, notice that when Ben paints white overtop of yellow (a highly pigmented colour) that it does not bleed through or reactivate. Most paints, if not sealed, will make many of not all paints bleed. That’s why it’s always recommended to use a gloss varnish before using a decal softener because it doesn’t just soften decals ;)
From what I've learned Micro Set is diluted vinegar, so basically a very weak acidic solution. And acids does melt things, so it re'activating the paint isn't really surprising.
Haven't tried other decal softeners, but would stand to reason that they all work along the same lines.
So, using a gloss varnish before applying decals will both protect the paint and give the decal as perfect an area to place it on as is possible.
Reese's