im very very new to 3D printing and I wanna make some mando armour-- what materials do you recommend that arent extremely pricey? I'm not sure which kind of filament or resin to buy.
i know very little about 3D printing, is it pasible to print mando armour using liquid resin printer? would that eliminate all the work needed to clean off the printer lines? and what about vacume forming?
For extra gloss you can go in with some 1500-2000 wet sand on the 2k clear coat. Those cans are expensive. if you have one I would recommend going to an automotive shop and buying the 2k clear in separate parts as it minimizes waste and can be easily applied with like a 15 dollar harbor freight detail gun
Good to know, thanks for the tip on wet sanding the clear. I might still stick to cans in the mean time just for the ease of use but I'm glad there's a way to get it cheaper if I end up needing this stuff in excess!
I'm relatively new to the cosplay scene but I'm working on a set of Mandalorian armor. And I've noticed that just about everyone uses velcro for their armor pieces. Why not use the E6000 to permanently attach some of the armor pieces?
Most people use velcro instead of permanently attaching because we want to be able to take off the armor and launder the flightsuit underneath. It also just ends up being easier for storage and things
Foam brushes work (and I used those before) but they tend to get tiny little bits of the foam in your resin after a few coats ... so I switched to just using a regular old paintbrush to paint them on. You can wash them out with 91% alcohol and they're good as new (as long as you keep them away from UV light obviously) Since it doesn't self-level I tried to keep them as thin as I could, but I'm not really great at describing "how" thin that actually was if you know what I mean
If you don't mind my asking, how did you seal the rub? I almost went that route but couldn't figure out how to seal it and wasn't sure how it'd hold up to days at a con
@@vaultfox I just used a gloss clear coat….it was very fickle, and I had to recoat and reseal several of the pieces because the gloss just dulled it. I think I was holding the canToo close. 🤣
You should include a link to the smaller bottle of Alclad in your affiliate links so you can get a little money for helping those that don't need the bigger bottle.
I thought I've watched all the videos, can you link or send me in the direction of the video on why you stopped smoothing with resin? I saw where you emphasized wearing protective equipment. I've been using it and might wanna stop apparently.
it's my 2021 recap video, but basically I've stopped using it because you can develop a contact allergy with it if you get it on your skin (same is true for all epoxies, but UV resin is a bit trickier in that it doesn't cure until it's set under UV light). As long as you're careful and always using proper PPE, you should be fine but I'm just messy enough as it is I don't want to chance it any longer
ehhhh probably not? I know in actual film production they'll make certain pieces meant for certain scenes so you don't scuff things up or break 'em. it also depends on the fight choerography and weapons too I guess but I'm not too well versed in that sorta stuff
i too suffer from the spray painting too close issue. how do you deal with runs once you have them? i just painted a helmet flat black and had a few runs and stupidly i painted a clear coat over those runs when dry. should i just sand it down till its smooth and try again or would you add more layers to fix it?
oh thank god I'm not alone, lol. I need to put post-its on my spray cans or something to remind me. so if a run is really bad, I usually will try to lightly sand it out with higher grits like 500 or so, and if that's not working go down to 220, then I give it another coat of paint. I got lucky with this because the 2K clear kind of coats everything and covers the imperfections
@@vaultfox dude thank you so much. I love how much you engage with your audience. I will miss that when you are a huge you tube star. Keep up the awesome content.
awwwww, I'm actually kinda worried about if things get bigger cause this really is why I do what I do ... I learn so much from you guys and I really intend on keeping it up as best I can!
@@vaultfox a lot of larger RUclips creators eventually move to posting regular q and a videos to answer a bunch of questions all at once. It's not as personal but it's something you could try to keep connected with your audience.
Your spray painting needs a lot of work. Back off and light passes unless you don’t mind runs or long dry times. Nice job overall. You have a lot of skills for a young lady.
"Whatever Mando is doing in other people's TV shows" what a fantastic line
he really doesn't want to be the main character but he literally keeps doing it
Me and my son is building this armour right now. I wish I was as good with the finish as you are. Great job.
thank you definitely going to finish my mando suit now
good luck!
Amazing armor. Thanks for that video❤️🔥❤️🔥❤️🔥👍☺️
Thanks! and you're welcome :)
Wow! That chest armor came out nice and reflective. Really has that metallic sheen! thanks for sharing :)
thank you! it was def the toughest paint job I've ever attempted
Thank you. 👍🏻
You're welcome!
GREEN CROCS!!!!!!
im very very new to 3D printing and I wanna make some mando armour-- what materials do you recommend that arent extremely pricey? I'm not sure which kind of filament or resin to buy.
Instead of using the weights, use the E6000 and a few dabs of superglue on the corners. Superglue will hold it in place while the e6000 cures.
good idea!
Use a tack cloth to remove all dust and lint before spraying layers. You can get at most auto parts or auto paint and supply stores.
good to know, unfortunately all I had on hand at the time were some shop towels
awesome
thanks!
I think you had list can you make video of beginners with list to start with
i know very little about 3D printing, is it pasible to print mando armour using liquid resin printer? would that eliminate all the work needed to clean off the printer lines? and what about vacume forming?
For extra gloss you can go in with some 1500-2000 wet sand on the 2k clear coat. Those cans are expensive. if you have one I would recommend going to an automotive shop and buying the 2k clear in separate parts as it minimizes waste and can be easily applied with like a 15 dollar harbor freight detail gun
Good to know, thanks for the tip on wet sanding the clear. I might still stick to cans in the mean time just for the ease of use but I'm glad there's a way to get it cheaper if I end up needing this stuff in excess!
I'm relatively new to the cosplay scene but I'm working on a set of Mandalorian armor. And I've noticed that just about everyone uses velcro for their armor pieces. Why not use the E6000 to permanently attach some of the armor pieces?
Most people use velcro instead of permanently attaching because we want to be able to take off the armor and launder the flightsuit underneath. It also just ends up being easier for storage and things
where did u get the Mandalorian flight suit you use?
SkyCostume - shrsl.com/3zyq0
You use foam brushes for the resin right? And how thick of coats are you using?
Foam brushes work (and I used those before) but they tend to get tiny little bits of the foam in your resin after a few coats ... so I switched to just using a regular old paintbrush to paint them on. You can wash them out with 91% alcohol and they're good as new (as long as you keep them away from UV light obviously)
Since it doesn't self-level I tried to keep them as thin as I could, but I'm not really great at describing "how" thin that actually was if you know what I mean
I'm currently working on this exact armor set. Where did you find/order the cape from?
Great work! where did you pick up the flight suit...starting my build soon.
Got ours from SkyCostume, I'll have a video loosely reviewing it/what I had to tailor and such later on!
@@vaultfox thanks so much, wanting to get started soon, to be ready for Comic-Con/Halloween
Looks great. I don’t have an airbrush so I went with a graphite rub, after seeing yours, I think I’m gonna get me an airbrush and redo my armor.
If you don't mind my asking, how did you seal the rub? I almost went that route but couldn't figure out how to seal it and wasn't sure how it'd hold up to days at a con
@@vaultfox Well I'm not the person you asked but 2K clear coat seems to work, whole process: ruclips.net/video/asceI4Uc47s/видео.html
thank you! seems like 2K clear is the way to go
@@vaultfox I just used a gloss clear coat….it was very fickle, and I had to recoat and reseal several of the pieces because the gloss just dulled it. I think I was holding the canToo close. 🤣
What did you do for the flight suit? Did you buy it online somewhere?
Got it off of SkyCostume!
You should include a link to the smaller bottle of Alclad in your affiliate links so you can get a little money for helping those that don't need the bigger bottle.
Aw, thanks :) Appreciate that! I'll add it but here it is quick for you - amzn.to/3gZhg6g
Is it possible to make it with a 3d resin printer?
Can I use Montana gold silver chrome on top of the 2k clear coat?
I thought I've watched all the videos, can you link or send me in the direction of the video on why you stopped smoothing with resin? I saw where you emphasized wearing protective equipment. I've been using it and might wanna stop apparently.
it's my 2021 recap video, but basically I've stopped using it because you can develop a contact allergy with it if you get it on your skin (same is true for all epoxies, but UV resin is a bit trickier in that it doesn't cure until it's set under UV light). As long as you're careful and always using proper PPE, you should be fine but I'm just messy enough as it is I don't want to chance it any longer
@@vaultfox understandable, thank you for the response!
Do you make them for sale? I don’t have the machine to 3 D print. I saw another video and he made his Mando gear out of Eva Foam. Thanks for the video
Do you know if you could have a fight scene with the armor on?
ehhhh probably not? I know in actual film production they'll make certain pieces meant for certain scenes so you don't scuff things up or break 'em. it also depends on the fight choerography and weapons too I guess but I'm not too well versed in that sorta stuff
How many spools of filament did it take to complete both pieces?
thanks for watching!
i too suffer from the spray painting too close issue. how do you deal with runs once you have them? i just painted a helmet flat black and had a few runs and stupidly i painted a clear coat over those runs when dry. should i just sand it down till its smooth and try again or would you add more layers to fix it?
oh thank god I'm not alone, lol. I need to put post-its on my spray cans or something to remind me.
so if a run is really bad, I usually will try to lightly sand it out with higher grits like 500 or so, and if that's not working go down to 220, then I give it another coat of paint. I got lucky with this because the 2K clear kind of coats everything and covers the imperfections
@@vaultfox dude thank you so much. I love how much you engage with your audience. I will miss that when you are a huge you tube star. Keep up the awesome content.
awwwww, I'm actually kinda worried about if things get bigger cause this really is why I do what I do ... I learn so much from you guys and I really intend on keeping it up as best I can!
@@vaultfox a lot of larger RUclips creators eventually move to posting regular q and a videos to answer a bunch of questions all at once. It's not as personal but it's something you could try to keep connected with your audience.
Did you have to size it . From him
I mention in the video that I didn't, but probably should have. The sizing of the chest plate was already fairly close.
Your spray painting needs a lot of work. Back off and light passes unless you don’t mind runs or long dry times.
Nice job overall. You have a lot of skills for a young lady.