I have done my own annealing tests. You will have stronger print but its marginal and still nowhere near standard injected toys. You can make them stronger by design but that takes a lot of effort. I would just buy toys at Walmart lol.... or shhhh dont tell anyone but print it in red Tpu 95a from overture 😊
When I want to test one of my designs and or prints I give it to my little ones to play with for a few hours... I wish I was joking. They have shown me more design flaws than any of my own testing.
Annealing work if done right. I've done several toys for my tiny- most relevant is actually the very first - articulated bone dragon, about 20 cm long, printed in PETG. 1 version annealed at 150C with temp increased gradually and left to cool with oven closed - 3 other versions not annealed, printed in tougher profiles, still petg - all broke the rings. The original one still stands today, it was the first used, the most played with and looks like day 1 still.
your problem is layerbonding. annealing is just crystallization - it may improve layerbonding - but not by much. use abs or asa, vapor smooth it with aceton and then anneale it. you will get like an injection molded surface with crystallization in the whole layer.
If you have any us pennies laying around print the ‘olympic dive rings’ on printables or makerworld. Should survive the kids lol atleast for a couple pool sessions
I would either split the rocket in 2 parts along length (in the slicer), print flat then glue with loctite 404. Or print at 45deg from Z for bigger cross section (more layer adhesion strength).
Should really go cooler for longer- I do mine @105 for 60 minutes- I also allow it to “cool” with the oven, making it even stronger. Cooling it it’s the fridge made it brittle and shatters when dropped, oven cooling allows it to “dent/score/chip. Idk the physics, just the methodology and the results 😂
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I have three kids. No toy survives 😢...
Is it PLA? 120 seems excessive por PLA. CNC Kitchen has an episode that goes in depth and for PLA, he does 100 degrees for one hour
Thanks for the tip!
I have done my own annealing tests. You will have stronger print but its marginal and still nowhere near standard injected toys. You can make them stronger by design but that takes a lot of effort. I would just buy toys at Walmart lol.... or shhhh dont tell anyone but print it in red Tpu 95a from overture 😊
When I want to test one of my designs and or prints I give it to my little ones to play with for a few hours... I wish I was joking. They have shown me more design flaws than any of my own testing.
I would try a stepped joint of a scarfed joint, the but joint has the smallest surface area for the glue.
Annealing work if done right. I've done several toys for my tiny- most relevant is actually the very first - articulated bone dragon, about 20 cm long, printed in PETG. 1 version annealed at 150C with temp increased gradually and left to cool with oven closed - 3 other versions not annealed, printed in tougher profiles, still petg - all broke the rings. The original one still stands today, it was the first used, the most played with and looks like day 1 still.
TNL: I'm gonna make this toy indestructible
His kids: Challenge accepted, dad!
😂😂😂
CNC Kitchen has done experimentation with annealing 3D prints and had put together some good data
My toddlers are the same way.... PLA is a lost cause I am moving on to abs and nylon printed in a heated chamber.
your problem is layerbonding. annealing is just crystallization - it may improve layerbonding - but not by much. use abs or asa, vapor smooth it with aceton and then anneale it. you will get like an injection molded surface with crystallization in the whole layer.
If you have any us pennies laying around print the ‘olympic dive rings’ on printables or makerworld. Should survive the kids lol atleast for a couple pool sessions
This is a good video idea
What’s the print?
Pack it in a bucket of salt and whack the heat on max
It's a pool toy so needs to be hollow. Can only salt anneal on a solid part.
I would either split the rocket in 2 parts along length (in the slicer), print flat then glue with loctite 404. Or print at 45deg from Z for bigger cross section (more layer adhesion strength).
Smart
@@thenextlayer Also you could spray paint the print with a truck bed liner, "Project Farm" channel did a video on those.
Look into alcohol annealing as well for more dimensionally accurate parts.
Very curious to see the results. Have read/researched annealing but yet to try it.
I think they break it even after annealing…
What is annealing?
Kids are amazing. They have special super powers that can break your wives will power. I bet the toys don’t survive 😂
Still the half of pizza in the Ofen
Print torpedo on a 45 degree angle?
Breaks anyway
Should really go cooler for longer- I do mine @105 for 60 minutes- I also allow it to “cool” with the oven, making it even stronger. Cooling it it’s the fridge made it brittle and shatters when dropped, oven cooling allows it to “dent/score/chip.
Idk the physics, just the methodology and the results 😂
What was the name of that glue the you said you normally use?
Its called Gloop, it's made for PLA
Kids will destroy
It's worth a try, why not?
what about you try 100% fill?
That is 100!
Hopeless, these are once again expertly demolished by your children
Just sounds like a fancy term for baking; I definitely know a few people that like to get annealed Keepo