That fork holder that snapped, if you print that rotated 90deg, it should be a lot stronger, as the primary forces wouldn't be aligned with the print layers.
Should be possible for sure to print that so it's strong enough to be used on a roof rack. Stronger plastic, thicker gussets, a slot that will fit a bent spoke for reinforcement...
Yup. Rotate it and print it in CF ASA. It'll be good to go. But do not use PLA if it's gonna see much sunlight. UV light will weaken it over time and it'll eventually be super brittle.
If you print it at a 45 degree angle with custom supports you can get almost the best of both worlds in terms of stopping cracking along layers, I've used this method for printing bike computer mounts and it seems stronger. The only down side is that you have to alter the original design to add breakway supports - oops sorry other people do mention this further down!
Nice job - what we really need now is a contraption that holds a folk up in the steer tube, so we can go hands free to pick out spacers and put the stem on without having to play bike mechanic twister. See if you can figure out a solution to that and I’ll pay any amount for it.
This is the biggest thing I still see Seth struggling with. I doubt it'd take him much time to grok, he just needs to find some time to look into it. He's got a kid and a large property to take care of in addition to this job, so I don't blame him.
Leave it. I've used petg with clever engineering to do what caborn fiber filament can. I even use 0.8mm nozzle. With the right material science you can achieve the same properties per gram almost
1:17 quick note on the tire bracket. I've designed and printed multiple interations of these and the issue that I have always come accross is that they will release the tire once it deflates past a certain point. So, if you are thinking of leaving your bike on the bracket for an extended period of time consider adding something like a velcro cable strap to avoid issues with tire retention. If you don't want to use a cable tie you can make the bracket deep enough to slide a retaining clip behind the rim, but that adds complexity to the build.
This video reminds me of when I worked at a local BMX shop and I'd make a bunch of different "tools" for working on bikes but I'd carve them out of 2x4s.... From fork holders to rim straighteners and even handmade spoke wrenches I filed out of aluminum and attached to a customers bike. Kind of makes me want to get a 3D printer so I can make some new ideas I have.... Awesome video Seth. Thanks.... 😁👍
3:25 here you can see your biggest problem: print orientation. The part delaminated because you printed it parallel to the force axis. If you’d have rotated the part 45 degrees (and used support) this thing would be rock solid…
Printing the fork holder with 100% infill and annealing it in the oven suspended in salt or other suitable powder would make it pretty much as strong as an injection molded part.
Never ever use 100% infill if you want to make parts solid. Infills are printed at max speed and underextrusion is desired, not unwanted. So you are going to leave a lot of air inside. To print solid parts for re-melting process you need to use 999 walls and add extra flow and temps, printing slower also helps. You need to squish as much air out as possible.
@@AgalmicAutomatait’s also less pliable than metal so I feel like barring any extreme conditions, it should be more bend resistant too. Obviously a good smack would break it and you can bend back a metal hanger, but it would be interesting to see how it would hold up compared to a traditional hanger
Seth - Walls are stronger than infil. A pipe is almost as strong as a solid peice of material, I use 4 walls by default and 5 for things I need to be really strong Love your videos, been watching a long time and got into mtb because of you
I came here to say this. With 5 walls and PETG the fork holder would not have broken. Also, for ultimate strength, TPU is the best choice if the part can have some flexibility. I challenge my friends to try and break TPU parts.
Thank you. I don't know why infill gets so much praise for making stronger parts. You'd be amazed how much a few extra walls adds and saves a ton of time in printing vs. 80% infill.
@@truantray It sheered across layer lines and PETG doesn't have the best layer adhesion. GOOD/close to pure PLA has ~25% better layer adhesion than most other materials. It's much more rigid as well, so that could have downsides. I think the orange filament he was using WAS PETG, and Prusa's PETG settings are a little low, which nets even worse layer adhesion. PLA has lots of downsides, but layer adhesion is one of it's strong points. Personally, I would design that part to be flipped on it's side so the thru-axle goes through constant extrusions of plastic, and I'd stick with a semi-flexible filament like PETG, ASA, ABS, etc. That part is bound to take some impacts here and there.
@@Zombifan122very dependent on what direction you need strength in. For something like the fork clamp that is going to be squeezed in a vise, with the load concentrated at the center of the steerer tube, infill is probably going to be more effective than wall thickness.
FYI, don’t worry about dense infill for anything that needs compression. All you have to do is use 3-D block in your slicer and you can beef up certain areas and even just get rid of infill altogether and fill it solid. I do this in a lot of joints and corners and especially wherever there’s nuts or bolts or something clamping.
@@zog6940 temperature is everything with TPU. if your printer is in a large space, try finding a smaller space to put it so the ambient temperature is more consistent. that's what unlocked it for me.
@@shellbournian my friend, only the most stiff tpu can easily be pushed down a bowden tube. THAT is my main gripe. I'll eventually just upgrade to a direct drive extruder and I'll be fine though.
@@JGnLAU8OAWF6 Yes, I have had good luck with ABS, thanks for the reminder. My 6-port USB charger is mounted on an ABS part, I'd completely forgotten about it because it just works. I haven't tried ASA yet, it sounds like it should be even better though.
3:18 You can make this print much stronger by changing the print orientation. Right now the force you applied basically pulls apart the individual layers. It's like gluing to pieces of wood together. If you pull them apart they will come back of much easier as if you would pull the along their length. Same with 3d printed filament. The bond between the layers is usually weaker than if you just "pull the filament". I hope you get what i mean. Also an other tip, if you want to get stronger parts more infill is good but adding more wall lines will help even more. For stronger parts i usually start with 5-6 wall lines or more. It will make the parts way stronger with less filament than adding a lot of infill
This could be a regular series! I’d love that. I’ve been looking at a few bits today, quad lock stem cap mount, apple airtag holder for under your fork.
What slicing settings are you generally using for the prints? Using thicker layers (even a wider nozzle) and more perimeters tends to do wonders for the strength of printed objects.
I printed an upgraded front chain guide assembly for my sons Devinci Ewoc yesterday. Going to do a couple tweaks and make it rock solid today. 😂. Worked great for some park laps last night.
great video! one thing to keep in mind with 3d printing: the orientation in which you print something can make a massive difference to its strength. 3D prints are generally weekest along the layer lines, so with that fork holder you might get better results if you print it rotated by 90 degrees so the and thru axel bit is vertical.
As people stated different infill and wall counts will change a lot of the results and Try different filaments too, asa is probably gonna be the best for most of these
Ooooooh that handlebars alignment tool is genius. I’ve always just eyeballed it and dealt with the awkwardness of being a degree or so off after every fork or headset service, lol. This fixes that problem for like 10 cents of plastic. I’m hyped now. Edit: NNOOOO The original creator removed the Handlebar alignment tool. :( I'll model up my own and throw it up on thangs.
1:45 Well it depends with what material you'll print it. PLA for instance already has the tendency to get softer and going to deform around 60 degrees with applied force. 60 degrees might be possible, depending on the summer, and the material of the shed/roof. For instance temperatures might rise hard with a metal plated roof.
Seth, I suspect you printed the fork mount with PLA. Don't use PLA, use PETG. PLA is hard but brittle and it would fail in summer hot cars. PETG can survive hot cars, it's more UV resistant, and more importantly, it's not as brittle. PETG deforms before breaking and when it does, it stays attached and rarely snaps.
It matters quite a lot which direction you print the items. Layer adhesion usually sucks, so don't print them in a way that a lot of force tries to pull the layers apart.
Another note for the fork mount is it broke on the layer lines, so actual polymers didn't break. I think like another comment suggested to fix this you would rotate the print so the tension is parallel to the layer lines. If it were an issue with the plastic, I would suggest using 100% infill TPU, or nylon (assuming you're using PLA or PETG. PETG is probably a bit better for layer adhesion too).
That handlebar alignment guage is cleverly designed. Just alight the center line of the tire between those two ears. It's similar to using v-notch gun sights...
My first thought when seeing how it worked was that I'd like to print one with actual gun-style sights on it, mostly for the fun of it but it'd also be functional :P
@@traviseason3548 Well I disagree with your disagreement. If you say it’s easy you notice the misalignment then it should be just as easy to make the correct adjustments to your stem
The tubolito case is a cool product, but i think the better option is 2 rubber bands wrapped around the tube. More lightweight and after using it won’t take up as much space as an empty tube case in your bag
Also for abrasion perhaps. I'm a long-term tourer and I find the constant rubbing together of all my stuff over thousands of miles causes a surprising amount of damage. Tubes will get holes worn through them in no time just from rubbing against other stuff in the same bag as them.
You've got a point about the space, but you'd be surprised how light a bit of plastic is. You'll shed more weight breathing for an hour than you'll save by foregoing the abrasion resistance.
Best little 3d print I’ve done for my bike, a hook to hold a chain in place while you make/break a missing link to save fighting the derailleur tension!
As a teacher of engineering and specifically 3d printing and a life ling mountain bikers I have a few comments. As others have mentioned print orientation is key. 3d printed prats very strong when in compression. But when in strain or stretch 3d printed parts are very weak when being pulled apart perpendicular to layer planes. However if you the strain is along the layer planes the parts can be way stronger. In our lab and years pf experimenting have found the top 3 factors in the usability or practical strength of a functional part to be... 1. layer orientation, do not pull layers apart, pull along layer lines. (print the for mount vertically. 2. extrusion ratio. Increase extrusion ratio as far as possible until the part starts to deform. This will fill in as many gaps as possible between layers passes. With many PLA or PETG prints we have no problem printing at 120 or 130% 3. If possible find the optimal printing temperature for layer adhesion. This is different for every filament. If you cant actually test this, its the upper end of what ever is recommended on the roll it self. Side note on materials PLA is not a solid in a hot car or shed but is "stronger" than a lot of PETG at room temp. PETG is probably the best for anything that will EVER be left in a hot car TPU is amazingly strong especially for any part under strain. TPU is also great for 3D printed grips. Try a .2mm nozzle and playing with outer layer thickness and infill percent for very customized grips. I also recommend the Gyroid infill for a more uniform squish. PS I've been following this channel since you lived in Florida. keep up the great work!
I have a few 3Dprinted things on my bike: - front light holder -caps for the internal cable, because it was missing from the factory -and even rear hub seal, that goes near the freehub. A proper seal was damaged for some reason, Couldnt find a proper sized seal so printed out of TPU plastics. Works pretty well so far.
for 3d prints material matters and orintation that fork mount i would say put in the effort to get it printed so the lines dont meet the expected stresses
@@tzlrc0 ideally with a totally flat side or a flat start and 40 degree angle so that it can be printed without any supports. Maybe not so fancy but more practical
What i saw on the printer display, You printed with PLA which is stiff and brittle. For fork mount I would try something stronger like PETG which is easy to print or ASA (for that You need enclosure otherwise it will probably warp and fail to print). happy printing :)
I've recently come across a 3d printable tool I've not yet tried. It's a 54 mm trunnion torque adapter/crowfoot for making sure your shock's air can is tightened to the right torque spec.
For the tune holder, it’s a great idea and design. I like the idea of mounting to the bike rail. But to soldering your seat problem you could mount it on the underside of the bike tube if you made a clamp/holder for it
Mud guards are also a good thing to print yourself! Very easy to design and very easy to put your own style on it. The ones in the front always do me a good service, but the ones on the seat tend to bend down in the sun, because I cant print ABS..
I think that fork mount is awesome! I concur that printing it in different directions would be better for strength. Also using the heating method for extra strength. For around the shop or garage its fine. Also if your going to put into your vehicle, that would also be fine. There is a guy that says he has two of them for e bikes. So that proof of concept. Keep in mind that 3d printers are marketed for minor household plastics repairs. Making simple things for the home. It does work well enough for things that would traditionally be plastic. But the other benefit is Rapid Prototyping. So if you print it in plastic and it works well, It might be worth sending a design to a machinist for a solid use case. It really depends on what that would cost versus just purchasing one that is already made. I also like the seat post lever. A very standard size Skateboard wheel bearing. Improvision at its best!
I actually printed the helmet hooks a long time ago and put several up in my storage closet for helmets. They work great! Thanks for these Seth we need more printed bike stuff.
@2:59 - that can easily be addressed by rotating that piece by 90 degrees when printing. It snapped quickly because tension was directed along layer lines (where prints are weakest), instead of against them (where prints are strongest). I printed a lot of heavy tool holders, parts that hold up poles in wind, etc etc, and PLA is easily as strong as most solid woods, but just look woods, if you use the grain to your advantage. Also, props for still using Prusa, it seems every other RUclipsr sold their soul for a Bambu freebie.
Just bought myself a 3d printer cause of these videos, was not expecting a video out on 3d printed goodies (although I could have expected it earlier if was on substack sooner) thanks for some more ideas, I will have to try them out 👍thanks Seth
Congrats on your new 3d printer! Hopefully you picked up a Prusa or Bambulab otherwise you should prepare to also make maintaining/tinkering with your 3d printer the hobby as well.
@@Evo_Spec oops didn’t get one of those😬got a creality ender 3 s1 so it has direct drive and is doing well so far. Hopefully not too many issues but that’s still part of the fun.
3:00 i would try printing it again but at a differnt angle. the way you printed it meant the layer lines are horizontal which meant it broke easily because of the diraction of the force being applied - if you had it so the layer lines are vertical (roating the model by 90* up) it would be considerably stronger from that alone. You could try andding supports to that file so it doesnt fail or find a different file.
That fork mount needs to be printed sideways. The way you printed it, it just came apart at the layers. Basically you always want circles to be printed flat, not upright
The fork mount will break any which way it is printed. It is a good option if mounted in a garage or other place that isn't going to be moving the bike around.
The fork mount you printed seemed to lack much infill. If you're working with PLA using 110% flow 80-90% infill for the best layer adhesion, also as others have mentioned you could make it stronger if you print in a different orientation. With good settings you can print some insanely strong stuff, I printed a motor mount for an E-skate with these settings and it's still holding to this day :).
Pretty timely since I just ordered a set of 3D printed bleed blocks from Etsy this morning. I kept thinking I should buy a 3D printer - and this video is nudging me closer to doing it.
If you have the budget for it, the Bambu Labs printers are very good. If you have more time than budget, the Ender 3 Pro has served me very well. It does require meticulous attention to assembly, as it is a "kit" printer", but I followed The Edge of Tech's, Luke Hatfield's, build instructions and have never had a failure due to misassembly.
@@secretweaponevan Strongly agree. My Ender 3 is heavily modded now but it's quality is approaching the limits of the technology. Speed certainly isn't but that's a whole 'nother beast that I'm not terribly interested in tbh.
@@secretweaponevan I have a buddy who is very into 3D printing. He's got the full setup with all the bells and whistles. He prints A LOT. To be perfectly honest - I need a setup where I can print out something occasionally when I need it. However, I don't want too much complexity in terms of setup. That's what has kept me from buying one so far.
@@BishyBoodaBee The Ender 3 has come a long way. I bought a V2 Neo for £135 (about $170) recently from the manufacturer store on eBay. If you are at all handy with bike repairs/building, putting together the printer is an absolute breeze. It comes in like 3 parts, no assembling 100's of tiny screws. It has auto bed leveling so no calibration is needed. Admittedly I have built printers before, but from opening the parcel it came in to printing the test file that comes on the SD card was sub 30 minutes. I've printed hundreds of parts an not had a single one fail, I've done zero testing, calibrating or tuning.
For the bracket in a shed, be aware that PLA gets soft around 40C/104F. Won't melt yet at that temperature, but it will not hold its shape under any kind of load.
for the fork holder that snapped, print orientation matters. If it was printed in the orientation with the spoke hole parallel with the build plate it may be strong enough.
If you are intimidated by the whole 3D printing thing, check out the Banbu A1 Mini. It automates much of the skill part of 3d printing. I could say much more, but don't want to come across sounding like an ad for Bambu.
@danielmurtin2911 ... I know nothing about 3D printers, except that I've always kinda wanted to get one, despite not having a real "need" for one. Just always kinda wanted one for experimenting / playing around, and those random times when I've thought "if I had a 3D printer, I could just design and make it myself" ... I haven't done any research on entry-level / affordable 3D printers in years... last time I did, I think the Creality Ender 3 was the one I almost bought. How does the Banbu A1 Mini compare to the Ender 3? In terms of being easy for a beginner to learn on, while also being capable/versatile?
I have a 2018 Cube AIM Pro that I bought used, it didn't come with the rubber pieces that stops cables from rattling against the frame. The original piece was unavailable in 7 different bike shops and online stores so I had a guy 3D print them for like 3$ each. From up close, you can see the layers but other than that, it looks original.
3D printing is so much more fun than you think it will be. It is a rabbit hole. I have created many useful things. I have printed out many of other people’s designs. The only limit is your imagination and engineering skill.
I love the Idea Seth, but as you already know, there is aaaaaa lot to be improved & I totally understand you do not have the time to get into the nicks and crannies of 3d printing :) However, some basic rules to consider while printing: 1.Print object layer orthogonally to force impacting it (through axle printed standing up, not laying flat) 2.Use different infill, most strength you'll get at around 30-35% infill with diminishing returns going over that, also use gyroidal or honeycomb pattern for better strength. 3.VERY IMPORTANT: Use more walls, you'll get diminishing returns in increasing the wall count at around 5, considering a 0.4mm nozzle. If you have the ability, get a Bambu P1S and try using ASA for those parts, preheat the chamber to 40degree, use gluestick, standard settings, give it a shot, you'll be amazed how sturdy even structurally important parts can be 3d printed. Have a good one, love your videos man! :)
@@meikgeik If that is the point you disagree, that is fine. But simply claiming they are overrated without just giving another recommondation doesn't help anyone :) There are many options out there, and I owned roughly 25 printers over the past 7 years, Bambu by far exceeded my expectation, and there is a very good reason creality, anycubic and other companies are using bambu printers in there offices. You can personally disagree, but the trackrecord is good.
Great video as allways, 👏 You should print the fork mount in a vertical position on os the side for increased sturdiness. On the thinkverse you can see the one piece printed on the side and another one on the vertical when they sliced it. There are plenty videos on youtube with hints and tips on how to get the 3d print stronger and the weakest point for the 3d print is the layers bond.
Print orientation can be optimized and leveraged if used in combination crossing the layers with two parts 90 degrees of each other. Essentially using layers like horizontal orientation = to constrain layers in this vertical orientation || from breaking at the weakest part which is the layer lines. This is one of the best pieces of advice I can give in regards to FFF printing of structurally strong parts. Hope this makes sense.
Yes, derailleur hanger! Obviously not as strong as an original aluminum, but great to keep as a trail replacement. Relatively easy to replace on the trail and would get you back to the trailhead and probably last long enough to find a real replacement. It would weigh nothing and take up minimal space.
i have a tip for you seth, using more perimeters gives you way more strength, combining that with adding more infill will make your part crazy strong, and i saw that you are using like 2 perimeters. i'd say like 4 perimeters and 35% infill would be way better for the through axle mount
Those _never_ point straight down the axis, which would render them utterly useless for this purpose. Ask me how I know. Now, a red dot for a pistol, however, I've had some good luck with those because you can align the laser point.
Despite not seeing the benefit mounting a spare tube to your bike, you could orientate the hole in the Tubo Case so instead of pointing up, it will point at a 45 degrees down, next to the frame.
I would be interested to see if that fork mound would benefit from sintering. Put it in an oven (that you don’t use for food) and crank it up to the recommended temperature for your plastic. It broke along the layer lines, so melting those layer lines together would make it stronger. I would still not use it on top of your car, only use the plastic ones in places where if it breaks it doesn’t become a road hazard.
Depending on material, you could just soak in acetone. That is what we did 15 years ago with the material we'd print. Printers now are significantly better.
I have used this exact dropper post remote for about two years and it worked absolutely fine until i crashed one day and the lever snapped. Just printed a new one and it worked again. Great design!
OMG!!!! I have not been able to get the handle bar alignment tool outta my head since the last time you reviewed it....I really wanted one but it was a bit pricey! bar straightness haunts me at night!
with the fork stand try printing it on its side so the hole for the axle points straight up, it will move the layer lines/ grain of the piece to make it stronger for that specific use. good video btw Edit: I recommend increasing outer wall thickness instead of infill for parts like the fork clamp for the vise, it keeps it a little more bendy while still making it just as strong.
Tools I printed for my recent Bike build: - HT II bottom braket tool - preload nut tool for HT II cranks - clamps to fix steertube and handlebar in a vise - starnut driver - 24mm? socket for top caps - alignment gauge for 11speed SRAM derailleur i am sure i missed somthing.
@03:39 This part should have been designed to be 3D Printable standing on its side ( with the Axle Bore being vertical ). Printed like that *_and_* using the proper Screws to bolt it down you'd more likely to be bending the bike before you could break it.
3:00 if you print that fork mount standing up (tilted 90 degrees so that you can see down through the hole when it’s on the bed) it would have been whole lot stronger. You might have to use washers for the screws. Without having studied the STL in 3D; this model looks like something copied or reverse engineered from a machined product, and not designed with 3D printing in mind. Of course, therese a lot of leverage in a tall bike, so you might not be able to 3D print something in basic materials that would withstand those kind of forces, but printing it on the side would have done a lot for the strength :-D
Experiment with canting/rotating your prints slightly on the print bed to avoid delamination failures like you saw on the fork mount. It'll cost an extra $0.25 in filament support, but should improve the strength significantly. You could also slice the part into multiple pieces, printed in different orientations, and then glue them together to get the best of both worlds. Great solution for bike storage in/around the house or in a vehicle. I DO NOT recommend using a 3D printed part on the exterior of a vehicle. Even if its overengineered to hell and back, all it takes is a nozzle clog or small area of under-extrusion in a stress point to lose a bike at highway speeds. Then you have to deal with property damage (say it hits another vehicle), injury liability (it causes an injury accident...or heaven forbid hits/kills a person), AND the loss of your bike. The name brand mounts are expensive because they're overengineered, but they also go through regulatory testing for the market in which they are sold. Nothing on Thingiverse will be covered by insurance if it breaks.
As someone who does reliability testing for a living I think you'd be sadly shocked at how many companies just wing it and throw their products on the market. Almost no one does on-going testing either so they just don't notice when the supplier of part xyz changes their anti-corrosion coating or some hole size goes out of spec or the solder pads aren't plated with the right process. Major props to any company that does some DIY solution to reliability testing, this stuff is expensive and requires experience, but at least they're trying.
the forkmount could be a lot stronger when printed so that the layer lines where where rotated 90 degrees, but than the part needs to be redesigned for easier printing.
I want seth to make tutorial content on things like this seeing he's been a software developer before and really like the way he can make me understand these complex concepts easily
you should look at a prusa mk3.5 upgrade kit. huge, huge improvement in performance. modern color screen, wifi, and most importantly input shaping. would cut your print times in half.
Here's the thing a lot of people ar asking themselves. What materials did you use ? PLA is brittle and crap for most mechanical appiclations because it also has " creep " and prints tend to warp over time anyways. PETG / ASA / Nylon printed with high infill and 5-6 walls are crazy tough especially if you print them with above indicated temps for a better layer adhesion. A CRAZY good filament for these kinds of applications believe or not is TPU, cause it bonds CRAZY good and it holds really well. That's why most people use TPU prints for gopro mounts. a 40D is pretty stiff even if still flexible. I think it would've made a great candidate for the for mount.
Use PETg or some form of enforced PLA like Tough PLA to make objects that need to endure stress. Plain basic PLA is not for every use case, but more for decorational objects and protoyping AND for functional objects that don't get to bear too much stress.
3:02 the split pattern indicates that it's printed too cold, and a part like this deserves more perimeter layers and inflated extrusion width to achieve better bead and layer welding. This part seems also really designed that you can pump up the temperature just short of burning up your filament or your printer. Not all designs can be run hot. Hot printing is less shape-accurate but better layer bond. Choice A of material for this would be ASA or HIPS printed enclosed; or i guess polycarbonate or nylon if you're into torturing yourself; choice B is PETG, but it's a little dubious since PETG can go from tough to brittle suddenly, flash crystallisation, though if i were to bet, it might just hold up fine. Actually Bavaria Olefin might be another choice A but i'm uncertain, worth a try.
I think the bike tire holder would be great with a 2" tube at the back, slide it in your hitch for an on the go bike holder, if you don't use the hitch for your bike rack.
The fork mount should probably be printed out of nearly solid TPU, that side-wobble is a lot of torque to stop with mass behind it, from a bad mechanical advantage point at that! Layer adhesion is critical, and some flex allowance is even better. That said, probably better for a storage option. But if you made one out of TPU and maybe helped hold it with a strap overtop, I think it'd fair much better being pushed on, TPU is crazy for how easy it is to print, but requires a direct-drive extruder. Also for 9:00 you mentioned heavy infill, for a part like that, there is a very specific zone you should bother printing solid, then the rest can basically be hollow. Learn how mesh modifiers work in prusa slicer and you'll be unstoppable!.. or at least use less plastic in some areas, just so you can print nearly solid in others. UNLIMITED POWAH
Hey Seth i dont comment much but i love watching your videos, and i do a lot of 3d printing at home and at school so i thought and share some of my knowledge but by no means am i an expert. Im still in high school and Im planning to start a manufacturing club at my high school so i can inspire other kids my age to make cool things. Some things i noticed for your parts requiring higher strengths, like for the fork mount, having a stronger material like ASA and TPU or even a more exotic filament might help depending on the specific needs of the part. I know that prusa has some PC blends, and i believe some carbon fiber infused stuff as well. Might be worth it to take a look. For the fork mount you probably want it to be pretty strong and as ridged as possible and for outdoor use you would definitely want uv protection properties like what ASA has. I recently bought a roll of prusament ASA, if you do get some just know that it does warp so an enclosure would be ideal but you can also print a boarder around your parts to act as a mini temporary enclosure. Its kinda difficult to explain but its pretty much a really thick skirt around your part and it would be as tall as the parts too. I really love your videos on 3d printing, inspiring others to be creative and possibly buying their first 3d printers. Awesome stuff Seth, keep doing what you’re doing! On a side note experimenting with SLA 3d printing might yield stronger parts because each layer fuses together so mo matter the orientation they should all fail around the same load amount. The down side of SLA is the clean up process… Not fun.
That fork holder that snapped, if you print that rotated 90deg, it should be a lot stronger, as the primary forces wouldn't be aligned with the print layers.
True. Also can choose another filament as said, it can be really strong.
Or if you strap it down with zipties instead of screws, as it spreads the forces.
Should be possible for sure to print that so it's strong enough to be used on a roof rack.
Stronger plastic, thicker gussets, a slot that will fit a bent spoke for reinforcement...
First thing I thought of too. Layer in some carbon fiber and you are laughing.
Yup. Rotate it and print it in CF ASA. It'll be good to go. But do not use PLA if it's gonna see much sunlight. UV light will weaken it over time and it'll eventually be super brittle.
I'm the designer of the fork steerer clamp (8:10), glad you liked it and are keeping it in your arsenal!
Thanks for designing that. I'll download and print it.
Nice job
it looks beautiful, i think ima download it here soon, thx
If you print it at a 45 degree angle with custom supports you can get almost the best of both worlds in terms of stopping cracking along layers, I've used this method for printing bike computer mounts and it seems stronger. The only down side is that you have to alter the original design to add breakway supports - oops sorry other people do mention this further down!
Nice job - what we really need now is a contraption that holds a folk up in the steer tube, so we can go hands free to pick out spacers and put the stem on without having to play bike mechanic twister. See if you can figure out a solution to that and I’ll pay any amount for it.
This might have been mentioned before, but keep in mind the print orientation for better part strength, Really good video anyway!
This is the biggest thing I still see Seth struggling with. I doubt it'd take him much time to grok, he just needs to find some time to look into it. He's got a kid and a large property to take care of in addition to this job, so I don't blame him.
Leave it. I've used petg with clever engineering to do what caborn fiber filament can. I even use 0.8mm nozzle. With the right material science you can achieve the same properties per gram almost
1:17 quick note on the tire bracket. I've designed and printed multiple interations of these and the issue that I have always come accross is that they will release the tire once it deflates past a certain point. So, if you are thinking of leaving your bike on the bracket for an extended period of time consider adding something like a velcro cable strap to avoid issues with tire retention.
If you don't want to use a cable tie you can make the bracket deep enough to slide a retaining clip behind the rim, but that adds complexity to the build.
Printing the fork mount "upright" would align the layers more robustly. I have 2 and they are holding ebikes without issue!
also some extra walls!
This video reminds me of when I worked at a local BMX shop and I'd make a bunch of different "tools" for working on bikes but I'd carve them out of 2x4s.... From fork holders to rim straighteners and even handmade spoke wrenches I filed out of aluminum and attached to a customers bike. Kind of makes me want to get a 3D printer so I can make some new ideas I have.... Awesome video Seth. Thanks.... 😁👍
3:25 here you can see your biggest problem: print orientation. The part delaminated because you printed it parallel to the force axis. If you’d have rotated the part 45 degrees (and used support) this thing would be rock solid…
Was going to write the same thing
Wow seeing a non 3d printing channel using 3d printing is so nice to see
Printing the fork holder with 100% infill and annealing it in the oven suspended in salt or other suitable powder would make it pretty much as strong as an injection molded part.
Also adding perimeters would help too!
Or it should just be designed to print on it's side. The way it was printed was around optimizing strength around the screw holes, not the thru-axle.
100% infill can make things weaker.
The design is just terrible, it's not for 3D printing
Never ever use 100% infill if you want to make parts solid. Infills are printed at max speed and underextrusion is desired, not unwanted. So you are going to leave a lot of air inside. To print solid parts for re-melting process you need to use 999 walls and add extra flow and temps, printing slower also helps. You need to squish as much air out as possible.
make a deraliuer hanger(it would be cool to see how it durable it is)
Bad idea. These are made out of metal for a reason
Bad idea but I'd watch a video in it 100% @@gospodinkenobi9903
@gospodinkenobi9903 They're made of *softer metal* so your derailleur hanger bends before the actual derailleur
Personally I see no issue
@@AgalmicAutomata I know that fact but y ok would watch it so it’s an idea that might go well
@@AgalmicAutomatait’s also less pliable than metal so I feel like barring any extreme conditions, it should be more bend resistant too. Obviously a good smack would break it and you can bend back a metal hanger, but it would be interesting to see how it would hold up compared to a traditional hanger
Seth - Walls are stronger than infil. A pipe is almost as strong as a solid peice of material, I use 4 walls by default and 5 for things I need to be really strong
Love your videos, been watching a long time and got into mtb because of you
I came here to say this. With 5 walls and PETG the fork holder would not have broken. Also, for ultimate strength, TPU is the best choice if the part can have some flexibility. I challenge my friends to try and break TPU parts.
Thank you. I don't know why infill gets so much praise for making stronger parts. You'd be amazed how much a few extra walls adds and saves a ton of time in printing vs. 80% infill.
100% I actually went over to the substack to say that as well.
@@truantray It sheered across layer lines and PETG doesn't have the best layer adhesion. GOOD/close to pure PLA has ~25% better layer adhesion than most other materials. It's much more rigid as well, so that could have downsides. I think the orange filament he was using WAS PETG, and Prusa's PETG settings are a little low, which nets even worse layer adhesion. PLA has lots of downsides, but layer adhesion is one of it's strong points. Personally, I would design that part to be flipped on it's side so the thru-axle goes through constant extrusions of plastic, and I'd stick with a semi-flexible filament like PETG, ASA, ABS, etc. That part is bound to take some impacts here and there.
@@Zombifan122very dependent on what direction you need strength in. For something like the fork clamp that is going to be squeezed in a vise, with the load concentrated at the center of the steerer tube, infill is probably going to be more effective than wall thickness.
I printed off a dummy fork a couple months ago and it’s really helpful for dealing with the bars and brakes while doing fork maintenance
FYI, don’t worry about dense infill for anything that needs compression. All you have to do is use 3-D block in your slicer and you can beef up certain areas and even just get rid of infill altogether and fill it solid. I do this in a lot of joints and corners and especially wherever there’s nuts or bolts or something clamping.
I snorted when you mentioned printing spacers. I'd say 95% of what I print is some kind of spacer, washer, or gasket (praise TPU).
Tpu is my mortal enemy. (I have a bowden tube printer and I wish I could print it easier)
@@zog6940 I have a direct extruder on my old ender 3 and TPU prints easier than PLA. I’m not even kidding.
@@zog6940a small squirt of silicone oil (spray) down the tube will make it print TPU easily. My bowden tube is around 600 mm long.
@@zog6940 temperature is everything with TPU. if your printer is in a large space, try finding a smaller space to put it so the ambient temperature is more consistent. that's what unlocked it for me.
@@shellbournian my friend, only the most stiff tpu can easily be pushed down a bowden tube. THAT is my main gripe. I'll eventually just upgrade to a direct drive extruder and I'll be fine though.
PLA can actually start to warp at only about 140F so some hot places your shed could potentially reach that
Yep, I've warped PETG in my car in Texas. PLA is for air-conditioned use only here. Only nylon, PC or resin goes in my car or garage.
@@circleofowlsagreed
@@circleofowls ASA or ABS should work too.
PLA can be annealed but it might distort it a bit, less of a problem with massive parts.
@@JGnLAU8OAWF6 Yes, I have had good luck with ABS, thanks for the reminder. My 6-port USB charger is mounted on an ABS part, I'd completely forgotten about it because it just works. I haven't tried ASA yet, it sounds like it should be even better though.
3:18 You can make this print much stronger by changing the print orientation. Right now the force you applied basically pulls apart the individual layers. It's like gluing to pieces of wood together. If you pull them apart they will come back of much easier as if you would pull the along their length. Same with 3d printed filament. The bond between the layers is usually weaker than if you just "pull the filament". I hope you get what i mean.
Also an other tip, if you want to get stronger parts more infill is good but adding more wall lines will help even more. For stronger parts i usually start with 5-6 wall lines or more. It will make the parts way stronger with less filament than adding a lot of infill
This could be a regular series! I’d love that. I’ve been looking at a few bits today, quad lock stem cap mount, apple airtag holder for under your fork.
90s commercial: You wouldn't download a car!
Wouldn't you know it? We're getting close!
Ive seen some people with the modix 120x V4 print car bumpers. They dont last if you hit something but wouldn’t you know its getting really close!!!
coincidentally, not a day earlier a recommendation of a person wishing to make that a reality popped up (project osaki. open source car)
I would pay to download a car. How things have changed 😂
What slicing settings are you generally using for the prints? Using thicker layers (even a wider nozzle) and more perimeters tends to do wonders for the strength of printed objects.
That fork mount would almost certainly be strong enough with a few design tweaks too.
I printed an upgraded front chain guide assembly for my sons Devinci Ewoc yesterday. Going to do a couple tweaks and make it rock solid today. 😂. Worked great for some park laps last night.
I gotta do that, my chain guide is useless!
as a 3d printer expert, if you want to have a more sturdy piece, print more walls, not more infill
great video! one thing to keep in mind with 3d printing: the orientation in which you print something can make a massive difference to its strength. 3D prints are generally weekest along the layer lines, so with that fork holder you might get better results if you print it rotated by 90 degrees so the and thru axel bit is vertical.
Great, now I want a 3d printer, thanks Seth
As people stated different infill and wall counts will change a lot of the results and Try different filaments too, asa is probably gonna be the best for most of these
Ooooooh that handlebars alignment tool is genius. I’ve always just eyeballed it and dealt with the awkwardness of being a degree or so off after every fork or headset service, lol.
This fixes that problem for like 10 cents of plastic. I’m hyped now.
Edit: NNOOOO The original creator removed the Handlebar alignment tool. :( I'll model up my own and throw it up on thangs.
did you ever make one? thanks!!!
1:45 Well it depends with what material you'll print it. PLA for instance already has the tendency to get softer and going to deform around 60 degrees with applied force. 60 degrees might be possible, depending on the summer, and the material of the shed/roof. For instance temperatures might rise hard with a metal plated roof.
Seth, I suspect you printed the fork mount with PLA. Don't use PLA, use PETG. PLA is hard but brittle and it would fail in summer hot cars. PETG can survive hot cars, it's more UV resistant, and more importantly, it's not as brittle. PETG deforms before breaking and when it does, it stays attached and rarely snaps.
It matters quite a lot which direction you print the items. Layer adhesion usually sucks, so don't print them in a way that a lot of force tries to pull the layers apart.
Another note for the fork mount is it broke on the layer lines, so actual polymers didn't break. I think like another comment suggested to fix this you would rotate the print so the tension is parallel to the layer lines. If it were an issue with the plastic, I would suggest using 100% infill TPU, or nylon (assuming you're using PLA or PETG. PETG is probably a bit better for layer adhesion too).
I print custom bumper mounts for RVs out of TPU, its indestructible.
That handlebar alignment guage is cleverly designed. Just alight the center line of the tire between those two ears. It's similar to using v-notch gun sights...
My first thought when seeing how it worked was that I'd like to print one with actual gun-style sights on it, mostly for the fun of it but it'd also be functional :P
If you need a tool like that to align your stem, you probably shouldn’t be using tools on your bike
Disagree, with short stems its really hard to get it perfect and you notice not perfect very easily.
@@traviseason3548 Well I disagree with your disagreement. If you say it’s easy you notice the misalignment then it should be just as easy to make the correct adjustments to your stem
The tubolito case is a cool product, but i think the better option is 2 rubber bands wrapped around the tube. More lightweight and after using it won’t take up as much space as an empty tube case in your bag
I thought the same thing.
I think the point is to protect it in your bag in case of a fall or something.
Also for abrasion perhaps.
I'm a long-term tourer and I find the constant rubbing together of all my stuff over thousands of miles causes a surprising amount of damage. Tubes will get holes worn through them in no time just from rubbing against other stuff in the same bag as them.
You've got a point about the space, but you'd be surprised how light a bit of plastic is. You'll shed more weight breathing for an hour than you'll save by foregoing the abrasion resistance.
It could also be made much much thinner. The point is to protect it from punctures in your bag.
Good stuff! I'm amazed how many tools and accessories I keep finding I can design and print. Though, I work on cars, not bikes.
Best little 3d print I’ve done for my bike, a hook to hold a chain in place while you make/break a missing link to save fighting the derailleur tension!
As a teacher of engineering and specifically 3d printing and a life ling mountain bikers I have a few comments. As others have mentioned print orientation is key. 3d printed prats very strong when in compression. But when in strain or stretch 3d printed parts are very weak when being pulled apart perpendicular to layer planes. However if you the strain is along the layer planes the parts can be way stronger. In our lab and years pf experimenting have found the top 3 factors in the usability or practical strength of a functional part to be...
1. layer orientation, do not pull layers apart, pull along layer lines. (print the for mount vertically.
2. extrusion ratio. Increase extrusion ratio as far as possible until the part starts to deform. This will fill in as many gaps as possible between layers passes. With many PLA or PETG prints we have no problem printing at 120 or 130%
3. If possible find the optimal printing temperature for layer adhesion. This is different for every filament. If you cant actually test this, its the upper end of what ever is recommended on the roll it self.
Side note on materials
PLA is not a solid in a hot car or shed but is "stronger" than a lot of PETG at room temp.
PETG is probably the best for anything that will EVER be left in a hot car
TPU is amazingly strong especially for any part under strain.
TPU is also great for 3D printed grips. Try a .2mm nozzle and playing with outer layer thickness and infill percent for very customized grips. I also recommend the Gyroid infill for a more uniform squish.
PS I've been following this channel since you lived in Florida. keep up the great work!
I love your videos so much seth! I'm going to print that dropper post lever right now! And thank you for testing it...😁
I have a few 3Dprinted things on my bike:
- front light holder
-caps for the internal cable, because it was missing from the factory
-and even rear hub seal, that goes near the freehub. A proper seal was damaged for some reason, Couldnt find a proper sized seal so printed out of TPU plastics. Works pretty well so far.
for 3d prints
material matters and orintation
that fork mount i would say put in the effort to get it printed so the lines dont meet the expected stresses
The fork mount (second object) needs a redesign. It should have been able to be printed rotated, so that the z axis is pointing through the hole.
Great idea, I just added a new version meant to be printed this way.
@@tzlrc0 ideally with a totally flat side or a flat start and 40 degree angle so that it can be printed without any supports. Maybe not so fancy but more practical
@@1234fishnet That's what i did. Looks pretty chunky.
What i saw on the printer display, You printed with PLA which is stiff and brittle. For fork mount I would try something stronger like PETG which is easy to print or ASA (for that You need enclosure otherwise it will probably warp and fail to print). happy printing :)
I've recently come across a 3d printable tool I've not yet tried. It's a 54 mm trunnion torque adapter/crowfoot for making sure your shock's air can is tightened to the right torque spec.
For the tune holder, it’s a great idea and design. I like the idea of mounting to the bike rail. But to soldering your seat problem you could mount it on the underside of the bike tube if you made a clamp/holder for it
I would love a video dedicated to polishing that dropper post lever and then stress testing it.
Seth, Great video. Thanks for all the hard work that you put into the channel. It is much appreciated. Thanks again.
The lever print is amazing, very cool!
Mud guards are also a good thing to print yourself! Very easy to design and very easy to put your own style on it. The ones in the front always do me a good service, but the ones on the seat tend to bend down in the sun, because I cant print ABS..
4:25 print a counter-part that clamps on the tire or the crown of the fork :)
Even putting in a dowel in the eye slot would be helpful.
I think that fork mount is awesome! I concur that printing it in different directions would be better for strength. Also using the heating method for extra strength. For around the shop or garage its fine. Also if your going to put into your vehicle, that would also be fine. There is a guy that says he has two of them for e bikes. So that proof of concept.
Keep in mind that 3d printers are marketed for minor household plastics repairs. Making simple things for the home. It does work well enough for things that would traditionally be plastic. But the other benefit is Rapid Prototyping. So if you print it in plastic and it works well, It might be worth sending a design to a machinist for a solid use case. It really depends on what that would cost versus just purchasing one that is already made.
I also like the seat post lever. A very standard size Skateboard wheel bearing. Improvision at its best!
I actually printed the helmet hooks a long time ago and put several up in my storage closet for helmets. They work great! Thanks for these Seth we need more printed bike stuff.
@2:59 - that can easily be addressed by rotating that piece by 90 degrees when printing. It snapped quickly because tension was directed along layer lines (where prints are weakest), instead of against them (where prints are strongest). I printed a lot of heavy tool holders, parts that hold up poles in wind, etc etc, and PLA is easily as strong as most solid woods, but just look woods, if you use the grain to your advantage.
Also, props for still using Prusa, it seems every other RUclipsr sold their soul for a Bambu freebie.
Just bought myself a 3d printer cause of these videos, was not expecting a video out on 3d printed goodies (although I could have expected it earlier if was on substack sooner) thanks for some more ideas, I will have to try them out 👍thanks Seth
Congrats on your new 3d printer!
Hopefully you picked up a Prusa or Bambulab otherwise you should prepare to also make maintaining/tinkering with your 3d printer the hobby as well.
@@Evo_Spec oops didn’t get one of those😬got a creality ender 3 s1 so it has direct drive and is doing well so far. Hopefully not too many issues but that’s still part of the fun.
3:00 i would try printing it again but at a differnt angle. the way you printed it meant the layer lines are horizontal which meant it broke easily because of the diraction of the force being applied - if you had it so the layer lines are vertical (roating the model by 90* up) it would be considerably stronger from that alone. You could try andding supports to that file so it doesnt fail or find a different file.
That fork mount needs to be printed sideways. The way you printed it, it just came apart at the layers. Basically you always want circles to be printed flat, not upright
The fork mount will break any which way it is printed. It is a good option if mounted in a garage or other place that isn't going to be moving the bike around.
The fork mount you printed seemed to lack much infill. If you're working with PLA using 110% flow 80-90% infill for the best layer adhesion, also as others have mentioned you could make it stronger if you print in a different orientation.
With good settings you can print some insanely strong stuff, I printed a motor mount for an E-skate with these settings and it's still holding to this day :).
Love this episode! The dropper level FTW. If one could print in carbon fiber, that would work well.
As others have mentioned, heat, orientation, material, and infill of the print will greatly affect the strength and durability of
Pretty timely since I just ordered a set of 3D printed bleed blocks from Etsy this morning.
I kept thinking I should buy a 3D printer - and this video is nudging me closer to doing it.
If you have the budget for it, the Bambu Labs printers are very good.
If you have more time than budget, the Ender 3 Pro has served me very well.
It does require meticulous attention to assembly, as it is a "kit" printer", but I followed The Edge of Tech's, Luke Hatfield's, build instructions and have never had a failure due to misassembly.
@@secretweaponevan Strongly agree. My Ender 3 is heavily modded now but it's quality is approaching the limits of the technology. Speed certainly isn't but that's a whole 'nother beast that I'm not terribly interested in tbh.
@@secretweaponevan I have a buddy who is very into 3D printing. He's got the full setup with all the bells and whistles. He prints A LOT.
To be perfectly honest - I need a setup where I can print out something occasionally when I need it. However, I don't want too much complexity in terms of setup. That's what has kept me from buying one so far.
@@BishyBoodaBee The Ender 3 has come a long way. I bought a V2 Neo for £135 (about $170) recently from the manufacturer store on eBay. If you are at all handy with bike repairs/building, putting together the printer is an absolute breeze. It comes in like 3 parts, no assembling 100's of tiny screws. It has auto bed leveling so no calibration is needed.
Admittedly I have built printers before, but from opening the parcel it came in to printing the test file that comes on the SD card was sub 30 minutes. I've printed hundreds of parts an not had a single one fail, I've done zero testing, calibrating or tuning.
For the bracket in a shed, be aware that PLA gets soft around 40C/104F. Won't melt yet at that temperature, but it will not hold its shape under any kind of load.
yo should print that fork mount diagonally, sure it'll need support but it'll be a lot stronger
Best of both worlds.
for the fork holder that snapped, print orientation matters. If it was printed in the orientation with the spoke hole parallel with the build plate it may be strong enough.
I've printed half a dozen of those helmet hooks and love them
If you are intimidated by the whole 3D printing thing, check out the Banbu A1 Mini. It automates much of the skill part of 3d printing. I could say much more, but don't want to come across sounding like an ad for Bambu.
@danielmurtin2911 ... I know nothing about 3D printers, except that I've always kinda wanted to get one, despite not having a real "need" for one. Just always kinda wanted one for experimenting / playing around, and those random times when I've thought "if I had a 3D printer, I could just design and make it myself" ... I haven't done any research on entry-level / affordable 3D printers in years... last time I did, I think the Creality Ender 3 was the one I almost bought. How does the Banbu A1 Mini compare to the Ender 3? In terms of being easy for a beginner to learn on, while also being capable/versatile?
new challenge stop printing gadgets, start print the entire bike , worlds first 3D printed bicycle
I have a 2018 Cube AIM Pro that I bought used, it didn't come with the rubber pieces that stops cables from rattling against the frame. The original piece was unavailable in 7 different bike shops and online stores so I had a guy 3D print them for like 3$ each. From up close, you can see the layers but other than that, it looks original.
3D printing is so much more fun than you think it will be. It is a rabbit hole. I have created many useful things. I have printed out many of other people’s designs. The only limit is your imagination and engineering skill.
I love the Idea Seth, but as you already know, there is aaaaaa lot to be improved & I totally understand you do not have the time to get into the nicks and crannies of 3d printing :)
However, some basic rules to consider while printing:
1.Print object layer orthogonally to force impacting it (through axle printed standing up, not laying flat)
2.Use different infill, most strength you'll get at around 30-35% infill with diminishing returns going over that, also use gyroidal or honeycomb pattern for better strength.
3.VERY IMPORTANT: Use more walls, you'll get diminishing returns in increasing the wall count at around 5, considering a 0.4mm nozzle.
If you have the ability, get a Bambu P1S and try using ASA for those parts, preheat the chamber to 40degree, use gluestick, standard settings, give it a shot, you'll be amazed how sturdy even structurally important parts can be 3d printed.
Have a good one, love your videos man! :)
You had me until the Bambu suggestion, they're over-rated, sorry.
@@meikgeik If that is the point you disagree, that is fine.
But simply claiming they are overrated without just giving another recommondation doesn't help anyone :)
There are many options out there, and I owned roughly 25 printers over the past 7 years, Bambu by far exceeded my expectation, and there is a very good reason creality, anycubic and other companies are using bambu printers in there offices.
You can personally disagree, but the trackrecord is good.
Tip for ya! Adding more outline layers has more of an impact on part strength than infill density.
Great video as allways, 👏
You should print the fork mount in a vertical position on os the side for increased sturdiness. On the thinkverse you can see the one piece printed on the side and another one on the vertical when they sliced it. There are plenty videos on youtube with hints and tips on how to get the 3d print stronger and the weakest point for the 3d print is the layers bond.
Print orientation can be optimized and leveraged if used in combination crossing the layers with two parts 90 degrees of each other. Essentially using layers like horizontal orientation = to constrain layers in this vertical orientation || from breaking at the weakest part which is the layer lines. This is one of the best pieces of advice I can give in regards to FFF printing of structurally strong parts. Hope this makes sense.
Yes, derailleur hanger! Obviously not as strong as an original aluminum, but great to keep as a trail replacement. Relatively easy to replace on the trail and would get you back to the trailhead and probably last long enough to find a real replacement. It would weigh nothing and take up minimal space.
Plastic would never work.
i have a tip for you seth, using more perimeters gives you way more strength, combining that with adding more infill will make your part crazy strong, and i saw that you are using like 2 perimeters. i'd say like 4 perimeters and 35% infill would be way better for the through axle mount
I love this type of videos thanks!
Thanks.
Yes 3d printing opens a whole bunch of opportunities
Greetings from the Galilee.
For the handle bar alignment gauge you could put like a dollar tree laser on it instead of looking down it.
Those _never_ point straight down the axis, which would render them utterly useless for this purpose. Ask me how I know. Now, a red dot for a pistol, however, I've had some good luck with those because you can align the laser point.
Despite not seeing the benefit mounting a spare tube to your bike, you could orientate the hole in the Tubo Case so instead of pointing up, it will point at a 45 degrees down, next to the frame.
I would be interested to see if that fork mound would benefit from sintering.
Put it in an oven (that you don’t use for food) and crank it up to the recommended temperature for your plastic.
It broke along the layer lines, so melting those layer lines together would make it stronger. I would still not use it on top of your car, only use the plastic ones in places where if it breaks it doesn’t become a road hazard.
Depending on material, you could just soak in acetone. That is what we did 15 years ago with the material we'd print. Printers now are significantly better.
I have used this exact dropper post remote for about two years and it worked absolutely fine until i crashed one day and the lever snapped. Just printed a new one and it worked again. Great design!
Love 3D printed functional stuff! It is time to make a closed space for your printer and start to experiment with ABS and ASA filaments. 😉
While I love ABS and suspect I'd love ASA more, the upgrades I needed for nylon and polycarbonate on my Ender 3 were so, so worth it.
OMG!!!! I have not been able to get the handle bar alignment tool outta my head since the last time you reviewed it....I really wanted one but it was a bit pricey! bar straightness haunts me at night!
with the fork stand try printing it on its side so the hole for the axle points straight up, it will move the layer lines/ grain of the piece to make it stronger for that specific use. good video btw
Edit: I recommend increasing outer wall thickness instead of infill for parts like the fork clamp for the vise, it keeps it a little more bendy while still making it just as strong.
Tools I printed for my recent Bike build:
- HT II bottom braket tool
- preload nut tool for HT II cranks
- clamps to fix steertube and handlebar in a vise
- starnut driver
- 24mm? socket for top caps
- alignment gauge for 11speed SRAM derailleur
i am sure i missed somthing.
The seat post lever is so cool. I'm thinking about printing one just for fun. I wonder if it would be lighter.
Props on the Prusa!!!
@03:39 This part should have been designed to be 3D Printable standing on its side ( with the Axle Bore being vertical ).
Printed like that *_and_* using the proper Screws to bolt it down you'd more likely to be bending the bike before you could break it.
3:00 if you print that fork mount standing up (tilted 90 degrees so that you can see down through the hole when it’s on the bed) it would have been whole lot stronger. You might have to use washers for the screws. Without having studied the STL in 3D; this model looks like something copied or reverse engineered from a machined product, and not designed with 3D printing in mind. Of course, therese a lot of leverage in a tall bike, so you might not be able to 3D print something in basic materials that would withstand those kind of forces, but printing it on the side would have done a lot for the strength :-D
Experiment with canting/rotating your prints slightly on the print bed to avoid delamination failures like you saw on the fork mount. It'll cost an extra $0.25 in filament support, but should improve the strength significantly. You could also slice the part into multiple pieces, printed in different orientations, and then glue them together to get the best of both worlds.
Great solution for bike storage in/around the house or in a vehicle. I DO NOT recommend using a 3D printed part on the exterior of a vehicle. Even if its overengineered to hell and back, all it takes is a nozzle clog or small area of under-extrusion in a stress point to lose a bike at highway speeds. Then you have to deal with property damage (say it hits another vehicle), injury liability (it causes an injury accident...or heaven forbid hits/kills a person), AND the loss of your bike.
The name brand mounts are expensive because they're overengineered, but they also go through regulatory testing for the market in which they are sold. Nothing on Thingiverse will be covered by insurance if it breaks.
As someone who does reliability testing for a living I think you'd be sadly shocked at how many companies just wing it and throw their products on the market. Almost no one does on-going testing either so they just don't notice when the supplier of part xyz changes their anti-corrosion coating or some hole size goes out of spec or the solder pads aren't plated with the right process. Major props to any company that does some DIY solution to reliability testing, this stuff is expensive and requires experience, but at least they're trying.
the forkmount could be a lot stronger when printed so that the layer lines where where rotated 90 degrees, but than the part needs to be redesigned for easier printing.
I want seth to make tutorial content on things like this seeing he's been a software developer before and really like the way he can make me understand these complex concepts easily
If you use LED laser light in that handle bar alignment tool, you can easily find the position instead of eyeballing.
On the fork mount orientation is king:)
10:42 you can print theses out too if you have your settings locked in
Hey, i designed that fork mount. I totally agree about not using it in a truck bed or on the roof. I used it inside my car with 100% infill.
you should look at a prusa mk3.5 upgrade kit. huge, huge improvement in performance. modern color screen, wifi, and most importantly input shaping. would cut your print times in half.
Here's the thing a lot of people ar asking themselves. What materials did you use ? PLA is brittle and crap for most mechanical appiclations because it also has " creep " and prints tend to warp over time anyways. PETG / ASA / Nylon printed with high infill and 5-6 walls are crazy tough especially if you print them with above indicated temps for a better layer adhesion.
A CRAZY good filament for these kinds of applications believe or not is TPU, cause it bonds CRAZY good and it holds really well. That's why most people use TPU prints for gopro mounts. a 40D is pretty stiff even if still flexible. I think it would've made a great candidate for the for mount.
Increasing wall count (perimeter) will do more for strength than the infill in most cases. 4 is a pretty good starting point.
Use PETg or some form of enforced PLA like Tough PLA to make objects that need to endure stress. Plain basic PLA is not for every use case, but more for decorational objects and protoyping AND for functional objects that don't get to bear too much stress.
3:02 the split pattern indicates that it's printed too cold, and a part like this deserves more perimeter layers and inflated extrusion width to achieve better bead and layer welding. This part seems also really designed that you can pump up the temperature just short of burning up your filament or your printer. Not all designs can be run hot. Hot printing is less shape-accurate but better layer bond.
Choice A of material for this would be ASA or HIPS printed enclosed; or i guess polycarbonate or nylon if you're into torturing yourself; choice B is PETG, but it's a little dubious since PETG can go from tough to brittle suddenly, flash crystallisation, though if i were to bet, it might just hold up fine. Actually Bavaria Olefin might be another choice A but i'm uncertain, worth a try.
3:30 you can make it way stronger just by changing the print position or inserting screws, practical printing is not just download and print......
I think the bike tire holder would be great with a 2" tube at the back, slide it in your hitch for an on the go bike holder, if you don't use the hitch for your bike rack.
The fork mount should probably be printed out of nearly solid TPU, that side-wobble is a lot of torque to stop with mass behind it, from a bad mechanical advantage point at that! Layer adhesion is critical, and some flex allowance is even better. That said, probably better for a storage option. But if you made one out of TPU and maybe helped hold it with a strap overtop, I think it'd fair much better being pushed on, TPU is crazy for how easy it is to print, but requires a direct-drive extruder.
Also for 9:00 you mentioned heavy infill, for a part like that, there is a very specific zone you should bother printing solid, then the rest can basically be hollow. Learn how mesh modifiers work in prusa slicer and you'll be unstoppable!.. or at least use less plastic in some areas, just so you can print nearly solid in others. UNLIMITED POWAH
Hey Seth i dont comment much but i love watching your videos, and i do a lot of 3d printing at home and at school so i thought and share some of my knowledge but by no means am i an expert. Im still in high school and Im planning to start a manufacturing club at my high school so i can inspire other kids my age to make cool things. Some things i noticed for your parts requiring higher strengths, like for the fork mount, having a stronger material like ASA and TPU or even a more exotic filament might help depending on the specific needs of the part. I know that prusa has some PC blends, and i believe some carbon fiber infused stuff as well. Might be worth it to take a look. For the fork mount you probably want it to be pretty strong and as ridged as possible and for outdoor use you would definitely want uv protection properties like what ASA has. I recently bought a roll of prusament ASA, if you do get some just know that it does warp so an enclosure would be ideal but you can also print a boarder around your parts to act as a mini temporary enclosure. Its kinda difficult to explain but its pretty much a really thick skirt around your part and it would be as tall as the parts too. I really love your videos on 3d printing, inspiring others to be creative and possibly buying their first 3d printers. Awesome stuff Seth, keep doing what you’re doing!
On a side note experimenting with SLA 3d printing might yield stronger parts because each layer fuses together so mo matter the orientation they should all fail around the same load amount. The down side of SLA is the clean up process… Not fun.