DIY: Bleeding BMW M62 Coolant System
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- Опубликовано: 14 ноя 2013
- Video tutorial on how to bleed the coolant system on a BMW equipped with an M62 (4.4L V8) engine. This procedure applies to a BMW 540i, 740i, 740il, 840i, 840ci, and 840csi. Possibly other BMW models may have a similar procedure as well with other style engines. Distilled water is recommended when mixing coolant for your vehicle as it does not contain any additives which can cause the system to plug up unlike water from the tap. This particular tutorial was done on a 1997 BMW 540i.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-coolant
-distilled water
-standard/flat screwdriver
Procedure:
-mix the coolant in your vehicle either 50/50 or 60/40 coolant and water ratio
-while the vehicle is off, add coolant to the reservoir tank, allow coolant to go down and top up when needed
-squeezing some of the coolant hoses will help push air from the system
-once enough coolant is in the system, start the engine and park the vehicle on an incline with the noise of the car being the highest point
-leaving the cap off, run the vehicle
-turn climate control on the highest heat seating with the fan set at mid speed
-allow vehicle to reach full operating temperature and add coolant when necessarily
-once coolant remains at a constant level and vehicle is running at operating temperature for a significant amount of time, turn it off and allow it to cool down
-check coolant to ensure it is at appropriate level
-repeat process if necessary
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great video! appreciate you posting that, I had a blown hose in a parking lot today and couldn't get the radiator to accept coolant, had air in the system, this helped me get it out. Thanks!
Thanks alot for your videos, you are helping alot! And I love that you have a sense of details when explaining, that is crucial and unfortunaly something many jumps over. Quality conent, thanks again! 👍❤️
You're very welcome and thank you so much for the support!
Great Camera clarity and very helpful information.
Thank you!
Great Video! Thanks for your Time and kindness!!!
best tutorial out there. you sir is a life saver.
Glad to help out and thank you! Don't forget to subscribe, I have plenty more BMW tutorials ;)
Thanks bro, helped enormously. I practiced on the daughter 523i before doing the wifes AC Schnitzer 540i.
Excellent to hear and thank you!
Bleeder screw off
Heat max lowest level
Fill coolant expansion tank to the brim
Keep adding little bits of coolant until no bubbles exit from the bleed screw
Close everything up.
Go drive.
Does it work with 535i ,i have this problem, when driving i get heat but when idling standing still ,no heat.
Thanks For all your good videos!
I'm curious what is the normal operating coolant temperature on this M52 engines on e39 1998?
Today in the UK on highway 95/97C
On traffic goes up to 101C is that normal to climb over 100C?
And when I squeeze the lower/thermostat hose I feel thumping/pulsation in the hose a feel too much pressure?
Thanks for the video, I'm currently getting stressed out trying to bleed my 540i... I will be trying your method tomorrow morning.
Glad to help out :)
I have this same car. My problem is when the car is cold and have been sitting for a day or two when I go to check my coolant the reservoir is full of water and has pressure to the reservoir cap what can cause that and ever other day once the car gets to its normal temperature the check coolant level sensor comes on 🤔
Hi
If you replace with new all the cooling system components on E39 528i 1998 M52 engine and you don't see coolant mixing with the oil....
And you have rock solid hoses, what's would be your suspect for this.
BMW dealer here in UK is telling me this is normal but they are exceptionally hard can't squeeze them?
When I drive temperature is solid 94C but idling goes to 102 and looks coolant doesn't circulate proper thru the radiator to activate the viscous clutch /fan.
Great tutorial!
I have a project 540i that I bought this spring -- I swapped the oil and the gas, and fired her up. The engine hadn't ran for about 2 years, and I guess I got overly excited. I started revving the engine to flush the hydraulic lifters, and it wasn't until about 60 seconds to 90 seconds later that I realized that I should probably check the coolant.
Woops! It was bone dry. Must have had a slow leak somewhere. I know these engines are pretty heat-sensitive, but I've also read that actual head gasket failure is rare. Do you think I did any serious damage in that 90 second window? I was revving at about 3000 rpm, and when I shut the engine off, there was a slight burning smell from the engine bay (again, the car hadn't ran in 2 years, so this smell could be anything.)
thank you sir
you a life saver
+Mohammad Ahmad Glad to help out and thank you!
Hey great video, I replaced my thermostat and now when I went to turn on my car after adding coolant the tempature niddle went to the hottest point I guess I have air in the system or something please help
MondragonDj Yes you most likely have air in the system still, be sure to bleed the system before it causes any damage.
Big problem. I did as you said. When I went to run the car with the cap off, I left for a couple minutes. When I can back the expansion tank float didn't move (still a few inches above proper level) and when I got in the car the temperature needle was pegged at red. I immediately shut off the car. Am I going to need a new radiator or something?
That is a big problem. You should make a post in www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=103
There is a chance you came back in time to turn off the car before damage was done, but after the temp had climbed above the range the gauge displayed. Good luck.
Never leave your car till your certain it's circulating coolant properly!
Jason Najm You may have been lucky and it didn't do any damage. The engine may have ran hot or it was just air trapped around the sensor giving a false reading. I can't stress enough, ALWAYS keep an eye on the engine and temperature gauge when bleeding the coolant system. Actually that applies to ALL coolant system bleeding procedures. When over heating a car, it can warp the heads and damage the head gasket. Very expensive job to repair.
Will this help with a visible leak? My 540i has been leaking coolant for the past few days.
This video will help you find a coolant leak ruclips.net/video/7RDarciXfwg/видео.html
Thanks for posting, I was unclear as to when you put the cap back on back on expansion tank? once the temp reaches midway point?
No, you have the leave the cap off in order for the air to escape until the car is at it's normal operating temperature for about 20min. Once the coolant hasn't gone down, you can turn the engine off and reinstall the cap.
Thanks!
When I take my cap off it bubbles and boils over so bad it's rediculous, I had to leave the cap on and slightly open the bleed screw which allows air/steam to escape. It's been a long process of doing that, letting it cool, adding more coolant, driving it, it overheats and indicates 'low coolant', letting steam out of bleed screw, letting it cool down, adding coolant... I'm making progress and hopefully on the right track.
Mark Howard fill up from the upper radiator hose had the same issue with my 540i
@@markbhoward I have the exact same issue right now, keeps boiling and getting so much of pressure in the tank it starts to overflow, did you finaly find a solution that could help?
HE IS NOT LYING ANOUT THE BLEEDER SCREW!!!
Strips out... almost every time with very LITTLE TORQUE.
I am a fun of your work seriously, you get the job done. I need an advise. My car, engine M60 ,840ci 1995 it get so hot that it hours to cool down . New radiator, new hoses, new thermostat, new temperature sensor ( it has 2 but one was out of stock) what else can I do?? Thank you. Mario
BMWs tend to hold heat for a long time, just their nature. However make sure you have the cooling system properly bleed. Is the temperature at a normal range or too high?
@@4DIYers i would say yes, right before the middle..but it feels hot 🔥
Great video!! Do you have to start the engine or just the on position? Bmw directions say the latter. Thanks man
Thank you! Engine needs to be on.
My upper rad hose keeps collapsing? Still air in the system you think? Thanks again!
Good video! What u can say about thermostat change to m67 ?
Thank you :) Unfortunately I can't help with the M67, we never got the older diesel BMWs in Canada.
@@4DIYers Then how do you drive а саг if the engine's temperature is 105 and 108 degrees? There under the hood everything will turn into plastic! Test nomber 7
don't work the coolant comes out after was up? tryed it many times kept trowing out my coolant
Are you leaving the cap on? Air could also be trapped which is why the level is kicking up like that. Try squeezing the lower radiator hose with the engine off and cold. Don't overfill the reservoir and elevate the front of the vehicle.
I didn't elevate the car
Thank you very much here in '20!!!
Glad I could help :)
@@4DIYers Keep 'em coming!
I followed your video, I had the cap off. Turned the car on and had the heater at max. First I saw cold coolant coming from the top cold for 15 minutes then hot coolant started coming out like hot lava over the expansion tank on the ground. I waited abut 4 to 5 minutes then I put the cap on while engine was running . I realized the temperature start heating up a little bit toward the right pass the center line. I turned off the engine. The next day I realized that the expansion tank is empty. Then I filled up and repeated the same procedure. Again the temperature started riseing after I saw the hot liquid inside the tank when I put the cap on. Should I repeat the procedure again? The heater was semi warm not at maximum. We just changed thermostat as well. Is it possible that the thermostat is bad?
Amir
Yara Elmjouie These systems can be somewhat of a paint to bleed and it takes time and patience. The reason why it overflowed from the tank is most likely there was still air in the system which pushed the fluid up and over the tank. I had to repeat my procedure about 4 times until the system was finally bleed. What work did you do to the car??? An air pocket could be causing the temperature to rise, but still be very careful and don't let it get overheated. The thermostat could be possible stuck closed and that would be causing your car to run hotter as well.
*How many gallons did you used?*
+Mentuhotep Ra 12 Liters.
4DIYers *Thank you so very much!*
Just tried this method. Did nothing but boil out my coolant. I'm so confused on the different methods of bleeding. Apparently none of them want to work for me
Ryan Choudhry Have you elevated the front of the vehicle??? This takes time and patience. Unfortunately these engines aren't the most user friendly to bleed either compared to other systems, but be sure not to overheat your engine and always keep an eye on the temperature.
agreed, leaving the cap off isn't working for me. Slightly opening the bleed screw works better. Fully opening makes coolant gush too. I've had to drive, overheat, open bleed screw, cool, fill, repeat. I think I'm slowly making progress. I'm sure the dealership could fix this in an hour and charge me $500.
having the exact same issue, did you fixed it? and how?
what if the top hose is real hard ?
Ruben Esquivel might be in need of a change - rubber should be nice and pliable
I agree with Tony, you could have a harden hose from age. Is it also hard with the engine off and cold while the cap is removed?