HOW TO SHARPEN YOUR CHAINSAW FAST AND EASY!
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- I sharpened chainsaw chains with a file for decades and then I discovered a faster easier way that works fantastic! I now use a Dremmel and a Oregon 7/32 stone bit and get awesome results...see it right here right now!
Close ups of how you sharpen were fabulous. Certainly helps new sharpeners. Great video Chris.
Thanks!
I used to file, being it took so long I waited until the chain was junk to sharpen.....owning 4 Dremels I went a bought the rotary files for the chain. My saws are never dull now. Thank you for the brain beating. There isn't even a file in my daily saw kit any more.
Hard to teach an old dog new tricks... but I was tge same way... hand file or the bench grinder.... The darn dremel was to obvious and once I saw it...... head smackin moment
Yup, it works!
I've gone to Dremel after watching a few of your vids too. A mains cord one for home and a cheap Chinese battery one for the field. I tried the diamond bits but I have found in the 4.8mm chain its not so good. Seems ok on the Pico chains. The Oregon bits are better for me.
@@gp4103 nice!
Great video!! When you first showed the Dremel, way back, I traded for a two of them. One battery and one electric. This is how I sharpen my chainsIve still got to build my sled for my In the Woodyard vise!! Stay Hydrated and Have a Safe Day
Sharp is good!
The quality of your videos are outstanding the subject is always centered. and in focus I'm sure it's from your experence in photography. Well done Chris you should teach a class to some of the You Tube clown's'
Thanks!
After I bought the "Dremel" my days of using a file are over! Hand filed for WAY too many years. Since your teeth are not all the same length (I don't think it matters so much on a chainsaw) you can get a progressive raker gauge from Western Saws. This will let you match the raker to each individual tooth. Then you can grind those teeth all the way back to the line before you junk it. Now on your processor, that chain needs to be nearly perfect in every respect for maximum efficiency. At least that's what I've found on mine. Have a great day Chris!!
Thanks for the info! Keep cuttin'!
I sharpen the chain right down till they’re pins , my Scottish ancestry . The most important part is the rakers , using a guide helps , but I’ve been doing it so long I can do it by eye . Cutting with a dull chain is a waste of gas and time , not only that but it shortens the life of the saw . 👍🇨🇦
Yup, a sharp chain is the only way to cut!
After watching your fist vid of sharpening your saws with a dremo,it convinced me to get one and it’s awesome after filing saws by hand for so many years,even the wedges used for cutting trees,I always used metal wedges,after watching u using plast wedges, I started using plastic wedges,
P.S.,Ed from Vermont
Great to hear, keep cutting!
Thanks Ed!
G’morning Chris ! After being in the original Woodyard, I’ve used the Dremel with “great success”, in between using my Bert style grinder. Thanks for everything.
GoodNightIrene
Awesome my much more gooderer man!
I use hand files, the Dremel, and an Oregon bench top grinder. The Dremel by far is the fastest and does a great job of sharpening. I use the Sthil 2:1 sharpeners to touch up because they bring the rakers down.
Yup, all of the above is good to know how and to do...sharp is good no matter how you do it!
You made a believer out of me with the dremel. I love it. thank you. And you just answered my other question about what stone you use. I will get a cordless dremel to take in the woods with me. thanks again for the idea.
If you do get the 12 volt unless they have a new bigger one...go bigger if they have it.
Good video Chris. If you like the grinder best-more power to you. I don’t care how you get it sharp as long as it is sharp. I have found that having the chain very tight helps keep it from rocking on the bar during sharpening. GNI
Yup, sharp is good! Very true!
You could get that chain you're fixin' to toss cutting really, really fast if you lay the saw on it's side and using your flat file -- take a swipe or 2 off the SIDE of your rakers (the teeth with the working corner pointing up). Flip the saw over and hit the side of the rakers on the opposite side of the chain too.
ok
When you showed the Echo up close before sharpening again. I noticed the angle was consistently not sharp enough on just 1 side. I am scoring today's sharpening at a solid 7.5!😎
the angle is off side to side which may be part of the sharpness as well.
Thanks. I find that the camera does not see what I see on a lot of things, angles and sharpness of the focus do not show everything, some times that is good, like when the camera is pointing at me but bad for showing the close up of teeth well.
I’m taking your birthday away🤣
To late. I have no more to give!
Hahahaha😂😂😂😂😂😂
Excellent video Chris !
Thanks!
Once again, it showing us another w w to sharpen chains vs. a file.😉👍
Yup, sharp is good no matter how you get there!
Morning Chris great information 😊
Morning! Thanks!
Chris use finger nail polish to mark your chain. It works great
Thanks for the tip!
I went to same system . Works great.
Good to hear! Keep cuttin'!
Sharp chains are good‼️👍🏻👍🏻GNI
Yup, I concur!
Free handing an edge on 40 chisels takes some skill. 35 years ago, when I knew more than I do now, my attempts resulted in driving the file too deep into the tooth. Then I discovered a file guide. I’m kind of interested in the square thing.
Yup, hand filing is a skill for sure!
Good morning Chris!!😀😀
Hello Al!
Chris as the tooth gets smaller so should the size of the file. You’re right that chain is worn out . Keep on cutting
Yup, at 2/3 gone it is time to put a new chain on.
I am pretty proficient with a file and currently have a bad chain that i havent sharpened yet. I live not to far from you and be willing to come down to do a head to head file vs dremel comparison. Your video tomorrow might change me over to a dremel with how bad that chain looked. Idk about you but im looking forward to the snow coming tonight
My brother Ken is a file sharpening expert..best I have ever seen anywhere... he does a great job but it takes a lot longer and is a workout each time he does it. With a rotary tool I am resting as I sharpen and it is 2-3 times as fast ...just try it sometime.
@@InTheWoodyard I've been looking at the carbide ones for my dremel. My 20 inch bar takes me about 3 minutes but I've been told I use excessive force as I usually bend a file well before it actually gets worn
Good Morning Woodhounds!!(-:
Morning!
Chris...The fastest cutting chain that creates the least drag on the engine and keeps the RPMs highest is a chain that is filled almost to the witness marks. Take a look at any of the guys filling race chains and they file a brand new chain almost to the witness mark. Makes a lot of sense and is the reason they went to narrow kerf in .325/3/8LP chain. The least amount of resistance results in the fastest cut.
Then why is it that when I put a new chain on it cuts 2 times better than the old one? I have done this for decades now. And why do all loggers change chains after 2/3 is gone to the teeth??? I can see the lighter chain moving faster but less tooth cutting better is like saying a knife that has been sharpened down to the spine cuts and hold an edge better??? If a small tooth cuts so much better why don't manufacturers make them shorter from the start?? I want scientific proof type answers because I hear from both camps lots of tooth vs almost no tooth. I am very curious about all this tooth debate!
@@InTheWoodyarddefinitely agree, it’s amazing sometimes when you switch to the new chain how much faster it cuts.
@@InTheWoodyard Chris...The main reason is because you are probably still using the same grind wheel as you did when you started. Drop down to the next smaller wheel size so you keep the top plate angle and side plate geometry the same as original with a pronounced "C" and a sharp concave top plate...it is a lot more than just a cat's claw sharp corner that does the cutting! A 7/32 wheel unless you are grinding into the tie-straps cannot give the same sharp angle the top plate came with. In fact it will be a lot more like a wedge versus a concave chisel. And the side plate will be more like a ski-slope versus the defined "C" the chain had when new. The side plate has to be kept sharp which can't be accomplished if the file/stone is too large for the remaining tooth.
Loggers change because they don't want to carry two round files and have to figure which one to use. Once they get to 2/3rd because they know they can't keep the optimal tooth geometry with a 7/32 file they get rid of the chain.
The reason manufacturers don't send chains ground to the witness marks is because at the very next sharpening the chain would require replacement. Who would buy that? They have somewhat accomodated that theory with narrow kerf chains in the .325 and 3/8LP. There the size of the tooth is reduced but the rakers are still at 0.025" which means it will cut the same depth of chip just a narrower chip which means lest wood is being removed. If the chip depth is the same and the chain speed increases the saw will cut faster. Get in touch with John Reilly who files race chains and he will explain why the tooth needs to be as small as possible to be most effective. (Obviously the larger the saw you will need slightly larger teeth.)
The "scientific proof" is in the basic engineering and geometry of chainsaw teeth. It is the reason a properly filed tooth will cut faster than a tooth cut on a grind wheel. The filed tooth top plate is concave versus a wedge which provides a much sharper entry angle and peels the wood fibers better. As your tooth top plate gets shorter the concave shape becomes flatter and you loose the pronounced "C" if the wheel/file size remains the same diameter and you keep the wheel/file out of the tie straps. It is why most chain manufacturers recommend going to a smaller file/wheel size when the chain gets worn about 2/3rds.
@@obxkoastie8170Thanks for the explanation! I will give a smaller stone a try on a used up chain some time! I really appreciate the info! I might even make a video of it once I figure it out!!!
Good morning Chris have a good day good video ( ty Ron
Good morning! Same to you!
i use my dremel with a flexible shaft, but i prefer the 7/32 titanium coated diamond burrs. they don't get smaller in diameter as they wear like the oregon stones. no they don't last as long but at about 50 cents each it's probably a wash. happy cutting! sharp is the key :-)
Yup, they do hold the shape but do wear out faster.
@@InTheWoodyard can your machinist brother kenny get A5.5 5.5mm - 7/32 carbide burrs with 1/8 inch shanks? i found one on ebay for $21 and some from england for $11 but must order 20. they may be the best for dremel tool chain sharpening yet.
We aren’t the sharpest tools in the Woodyard😊
Feeding time in the zoo❤
Yes and yup!
I save the old chains for cutting Wood with metal in it. Or if the wood has lots of mud on it.
Yes! That old chain has plenty of use left in it!!
I like them for cutting stumps off at dirt level...👍
Yup!
Yup, for cutting mud and metal wood.
Love dem woodcats
They are kinda neat.
Thank you sir!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
@@InTheWoodyard hi, just an fyi, I sent a request to both emails you gave. I didn’t hear back from either. I’m guessing you’ll get around to it, or they went to spam. No biggy, thought I’d at least mention it. Jay
Each unto their own, 24” bar only takes a couple minutes to touch up with a file.
As long as the chain gets sharp I am happy.
You can sharpen a full skip even faster. Just run it as round file from new.
.
That worn out chain is what i commonly see in competition cutting, less mass easier to spin same principle as putting lighter wheel/tire combination on a auto. Basically the theory of unsprung weight.
Make sense I guess???
Sharp is good.
yup.
So much more life in that chain! Save them and I’ll take them! lol
I sell lots of worn out chains and then I buy brand new ones!
I do just file, but I can tell you my chains dont look that good when I am done! So your efforts are probably an 11 or 12 out of 10, if my filing is a 10 :)
I have bought a fancy schmancy bench grinder a few weeks ago, but I haven't got it out of the box yet.
Nice work!
I have a Pferd chainsaw sharpener. It makes my blades scary sharp. It is fast and essy to use. Stihl has the same one that they make under license from Pferd.
Sharp is good no matter how you get there!
@@InTheWoodyard
Roger that! Big chips are always beautiful.
Anybody who loves animals has got to be a person!
I suppose so.
Just curious on the 572s chain getting towards the end of its life or even at half-life if it would continue to cut well if brought back to factory specs on a grinder? 🤔and yes I understand time and money and all that but if you're tossing a chain at 80% its useful life, I do a combo of file, Dremel, and grinder as well as carrying a spare chain and I might find myself a mile or two from my vehicle while out cutting trail vs cutting on a landing or woodyard.
I am sure that if it has some teeth left it will cut ...but...like an NFL running back the old ones are working at 60-80% of what they used to do...and when I put a new one on I am much happier and cut faster!
Nice and sharp. And way less effort and way less time.
Yup.
Chris the guys that wine about the only way to sharpen is with a file obviously I've never had a sharpen a 60 inch or A 72 inch chain, because with a file it takes forever.
Hand filing is great. Most pros are experts at it but I can sharpen as good and way faster with a rotary tool.
Might want to move that jerry can😂
yup.
I'm considering a dremel
Try it you will like it!
Chris I've emailed you 3 times trying to buy one of your vises. Do you have them still and how can I buy one?
Sorry, it must have gone to my junk. Please try my wifes email maryinthewoodyard@gmail.com
@@InTheWoodyardThe last time I sent them I sent them to yours and hers but I'll send them again today.
Chainsaw vise that Burt makes.. Contact info? Thanks!
Email me at maryinthewoodyard@gmail.com
i use the dremel all the time in the field. it dies a great job. even the best hand filed chain begins to dull the second you cut with it. BTW, how can i purchase one of the bar clamps?
Email me at chrisinthewoodyard@gmail.com or my wife at maryinthewoodyard@gmail.com
Tons of life left on that chain I go almost to the mark on the chain
Yes but a new chain will cut much better and faster and if you are not doing production for pay it does not matter if you are producing 10-30% less wood with a slower cutting chain. Ask any pro hand cutting logger , they will always say if short teeth are as good or better they would make the chains that way.
@@InTheWoodyard your right
@@LeBlancfirewood I just found out that I might just need to use a smaller file/stone to get the tooth shape back to a C so I will try it!
@@InTheWoodyard never thought of that I'm going to try a smaller file when it gets smaller makes sense
How do you like your no spill gas can? Was thinking of getting one
Do it! They are good ones!
@@InTheWoodyard perfect! And I remember you making a video demonstrating the ezzdoo titanium plated sharpening bits and how they hold up better than the Oregon stone bits, do you prefer one or another in your experience?
Anyone that would refuse to use the Dremmel has too much time on their hands!
Yes but some do know how to use a file really well and have done it for years so they know what they are doing and can get the chain sharp... which is all that matters. I like speed!
So you're saying long in the tooth is a good thing after all?!?
On chains ...yes!
How many cats yunz have nowadays
1/2 of the peak of infestation, 10-11 depending on the day. There was 23 at one time! A bunch found new homes and a couple disappeared.
👍👍
Thanks!!!
Fast saw sharpening does not equal to quality. Professional loggers do not know what a Dremel tool is.
Yup most pros own grinders and sharpen in batches old school guy are still hand filing like I did for 40 years but for 10 years now I mostly use technology and electricity.
😂😂😂
Thanks for watching.
What is Burt's channel? I know you've mentioned it before and I thought I subscribed to it but apparently I didn't..
@BertsCustomCuts
bertscustomcuts
Personally, I like to sharpen with a file, BUT I'm not doing this for a living, if I was, I'd be sharpening in the fastest way possible. Beside as someone much wizer than me said, "There is no wrong way to do a job, but some ways are more efficient than others"
Yup, sharp is sharp.
Me personally I have never used a rotory sharpener that actually worked properly.......don't be so lazy bring the saws into the shop at the end of the day and just file a bit .....if you keep on it they don't get that bad ......but my God what were you cutting ......stones and dirt .....wow that one chain is dun
Yup, I used to do just that then I opened up my mind and learned an easier and faster way.
Great job sir, i feel like an idiot though. I get so messed up on which file to use according to the size need such as 3/8, 3/8p,.325,404. Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance. have a wonderful weekend sir.
Not knowing you situation with saws and bars my advice is take your saws (with bars and chains on) to a saw shop and have them show you what to look for and write it down so you know in the future.
Good to know they have bits like that. I do mine free handed and its just slow and not that great, I do have two different guide ones but haven't used either of those cause one clamps on and takes even more time and the other is ok but still slower than this. I also have a harbor freight electric grinder sharpener but have to remove chain. Would much rather use a Dremel. I do not own one though.
Any brand of rotary tool will work.
@@InTheWoodyard now I may have an old harbor freight rotary tool, I'll have to check and I think I know where it is. My neighbor had an actual Dremel brand rotary tool and I thought how much better quality it was and looked more powerful than the tool I had, I assumed that Dremel would be fairly expensive and some of them are, the Dremel's I seen on google some didn't look too much different from my Harbor freight one, so hopefully it's powerful enough, will have to get the bits. If I remember correctly there are different size brass pieces for different thickness bits correct? Under the screw on part where you replace them. So there should be one to fit the thickness of the Oregon bits?
Hi Chris, I really enjoy your videos! I'm particularly happy with the fact that you use a Drexel rather than hand filling and also because you mentioned that lenght of tooth( singular) different to one another, will not affect the cutting ability or performance of that particular chain. It's true and I've personally proved it my times to my customers. I used to do custom sharpening. Same thing with the gullet, it plays no part unless you are ripping or noodling, like you said. What it changes is the angle in relation to the top plate at which the gullet meets the top plate. If you've ever sharpened knives, you will know that there's 3 main angles...10, 20, 30 degrees. 10 being razor sharp, and 30 being used for rougher cuts or work. By leaving some of the gullet at the bottom, it means that the stone is moving upwards creating an open "C" configuration. That changes the angle coming up to the top plate from a 10 to a 30. It still feels sharp but not as hungry as it could be. I'm not writing this to be smart, but I could see the open mouth "C" on the older chain that you just sharpened from the video. Have a closer look and compare. You could possibly have enough tooth left to change that angle. Or you can use a smaller file in the 10 o'clock position on the "C". That would create a "C" facing forward instead of upwards. It doesn't take much to make a difference. I learned this by experience. I've ground down many of my new chains learning this. Bucking Billy Ray Smith explained this many times in his videos. By changing the angle, not only makes your saw hungrier but will last longer between sharpening. Providing you don't hit a brick wall. Keep up with your great work, you're a legend in your own time. Let me know if you find time to change that angle. P.S. I know you're very busy helping people with your videos. Good night Irene!!
I hate BBRs new style of video but do agree with his C vs a ski slope(lazy C), the chain will cut good until nothing but a nub if the angles are maintained. imho
Yup, you are correct! One thing that is rarely mentioned in sharpening videos however is what kind of wood are you cutting??? Soft wood like pine, balsam, doug fir, spruce at +40 to+80F degrees is totally different that hickory, ossage orange, iron wood, and hard maple at -20 to -30F !!!! It is like comparing mud to a rock.
yup, ski slopes make dust Cs make chips.
Great sharping. I was in a hardware store yesterday and in the chain, bar, files section, they had a tool that can use those stones you have. 25,000 rpm. And 12 Volt power.
Yup!
👍👍👍
Thanks!!!
Should have started at the 12 minute mark and save the chatter.
never cut with a dull chain the rotary tool makes it so easy to sharpen. thanks for the great tip Chris
Yup, thanks!
Hi Chris. I've also started using the grinding bits and find them great for "dressing" the teeth. I actually get on OK with the Stihl dual sharpener so I tend to alternate them. There is nothing like cutting with a nice sharp chain, seeing those large rips fly out of the back!!!
Yup, however you get a chain sharp ....it is good!
Try a 3/16 stone on those mostly used up chains and get a raker gauge to reset the rakers properly
Good idea but they are not as good as a new chain for production. At 2/3 gone they do not cut fast enough for production and cost me.
The 7/32 stone doesn't get the same angles on the cutter once it gets shorter. If you use the 3/16 you will get the proper angles back and it will cut faster than what you run now
@@mrfirewood6215 Thanks, I will try it!
I would love to get one of those vices. I have emailed a couple times but haven’t received a response
Sorry about that some emails go to the junk section and get lost in the massive pile of daily messages. My wife has taken care of this for a while now so I want you to try her email too if you can it is maryinthewoodyard@gmail.com Thanks Bossmaster!
@@InTheWoodyard No worries! I figured that might be happening. I will give her a try. Thanks!
I remember the first video I seen you post of electric sharpening my mind was BLOWN, and I got one straight away. Absolutely love it, so thank you, Chris!
Good to hear!
Cutting freehand gives you a poor cutting chain. Inadvertently cutting the teeth at different angles. Faster but not accurate.
Ok
Morning Chris, I'm not usually up at this time. Woke up at 3:15, couldn't get back to sleep. Been having a hard time sleeping for about a year. I just started sharpening with my Dremel. can't believe how easy it is and how good a job it does. They cut better than when I have them sharpened at the shop.
Good morning! Awesome to hear!
Hi, James, maybe if you watch Dr Eric Berg he might have a video on sleeping issues. Im on Keto, and vitamins, Vitamins in the morining, I sleep really well. Dr Ken Berry has a good health food diets, too.
I watch his videos. His supplements cost twice as much as all others. I eat well and healthy. I was in the hospital for 4 moths last year after a traumatic accident. I havn't slept since.@@camperjack2620
Thanks for the close up shots Chris, it helps with your explanation. GNI
Glad to help!
Great video 💪💪
I must try this 👍
You should! It works!